MALMESBURY
The Town of Malmesbury stands on a steep hill
almost encircled by the Tetbury and Sherston
branches of the Bristol Avon. (fn. 1) The streams, flowing eastwards, come within 200 m. of each other
at the town's north-western corner, diverge, and
meet at its southern end. (fn. 2) The word Malmesbury
was perhaps derived from the name of Mailduib,
an Irish monk or hermit who may have settled
on or near the town's site in the mid 7th century.
Mailduib is said to have gathered around him a
school which became the nucleus of the monastery
later known as Malmesbury abbey. (fn. 3) A tradition
was current in the abbey in the 14th century that
Mailduib's settlement lay beneath a fortified place,
called either Bladon or by the Saxon name Ingelbourne, which had been constructed by a heathen
British king, had once been a thriving town, but
was in Mailduib's time little frequented. (fn. 4) Malmesbury's naturally defensible site may have been
that of a stronghold in an earlier period, but the
tradition cannot be substantiated. Between the 7th
century and the 11th the abbey was granted many
estates near Malmesbury, including the lands, surrounding the town, which became Malmesbury
and Westport parishes. (fn. 5) The two parishes may
have been formed early: there was a church at
Westport in the late Saxon period and the site of
St. Paul's, the medieval parish church of Malmesbury, in or adjacent to the abbey precinct perhaps
indicates a similarly early origin. The parishes
were closely associated: the settlement called
Westport formed a suburb of the town, and what
became Malmesbury borough included part of that
settlement and had most of its common land in
Westport parish. (fn. 6)
Malmesbury parish comprised most of the town,
but not the abbey precinct and the part in Westport
parish, and lands north, east, and south of it.
Within the parish were the villages or hamlets of
Milbourne, Whitchurch, and Blick's Hill to the
east, Burton Hill immediately south of the town,
and Corston and Rodbourne further south. A
settlement called Filands, north of the town, lay
mainly in Westport parish. (fn. 7) The name of another,
Walcot, in either Westport or Malmesbury parish
may indicate an early settlement site or proximity
to the town walls; the only references to it are
from the late 13th century. (fn. 8) From the 14th century or earlier there was a chapel, dependent on
St. Paul's church, at Corston and another at Rodbourne. (fn. 9) Each chapelry was a tithing: although
neither relieved its own poor, both Corston and
Rodbourne were thus separate from Malmesbury
in some ecclesiastical and administrative matters.
The main part of the following article deals with
all Malmesbury parish except Corston and Rodbourne, with the abbey precinct which was apparently considered extraparochial until the 18th
century when it relieved its own poor, (fn. 10) and with
the history of the town including some aspects of
that part of it which lay in Westport parish.
Corston and Rodbourne are dealt with in separate
accounts at the end of the article.
Malmesbury parish, including the abbey precinct, Corston, and Rodbourne, measured 10 km.
from north to south and at its widest, south of
the town, 5 km. from east to west. It narrowed
where crossed by the two branches of the Avon,
and 360 a. to the north were attached to the rest
of the parish by a neck of land north-east of the
town. Further north again c. 20 a. in two parcels
were detached, one surrounded by lands of
Brokenborough parish and one between Brokenborough and Charlton; north of Milbourne village
were c. 10 a., parcels of Westport and Charlton
parishes, enclosed by Malmesbury lands. (fn. 11) The
boundary of the 360 a. with Charlton was marked
by a stream, but the boundaries with Brokenborough and Westport were irregular: that irregularity, and the existence of islands of other parishes
in Malmesbury and of Malmesbury in other parishes, may be the result of inclosure and allotment
of land shared by several parishes, of basing parish
boundaries on the ownership of land with which
tithes were merged after the Reformation, or of
both. Further south the parish's eastern boundary
was marked by the Avon, its tributary Woodbridge
brook, and another tributary, while a tributary of
the Sherston Avon marked part of the western
boundary. Elsewhere the parish boundary was
marked by few natural features, but on the western
side of the town it may have followed part of the
town wall and in other places was marked by roads.
The boundaries of Rodbourne and Corston were
surveyed in the late 11th century or early 12th
when the road dividing Corston and Hullavington
was mentioned and the Avon was Rodbourne's
boundary with Little Somerford. (fn. 12) That last
boundary was diverted west from the Avon, its
natural line, at an agreed inclosure in 1281. (fn. 13) In
the early 1630s, after the disafforestation of
Braydon forest in 1630 and disputes with other
landowners, the lord of Whitchurch and Milbourne manor was allotted 104 a. of the purlieus
c. 6 km. east of the parish: (fn. 14) that allotment, Milbourne common, was part of Malmesbury parish
in 1839. (fn. 15)

Malmesbury c. 1840
In the period 1882–4 the detached parts of
Malmesbury parish to the north were transferred
to Brokenborough, Milbourne common was transferred to Brinkworth, and the detached parts of
Westport and Charlton embraced by Malmesbury
parish were transferred to Malmesbury; north of
the town there were also small changes to the
boundaries with Westport and Charlton. (fn. 16) In
1885, after losing c. 100 a. in the changes of
1882–4, Malmesbury parish measured 5,333 a.
(2,160 ha.), of which Corston and Rodbourne
were a total of c. 2,500 a. (fn. 17) In 1886 Malmesbury
municipal borough was created; it contained 178
a. formerly part of Malmesbury, Westport, and
Brokenborough parishes. (fn. 18) In 1894 the reduced
Malmesbury parish was renamed St. Paul Malmesbury Without parish; to it was added in 1896 all
Westport parish outside the borough. (fn. 19) In 1981
it measured 2,903 ha. (7,173 a.). (fn. 20) In 1984 small
areas were exchanged between that parish and
Brokenborough, and some land was transferred
from it to Malmesbury parish. (fn. 21) Thereafter St.
Paul Malmesbury Without measured 2,699 ha.
(6,669 a.). (fn. 22)
From the confluence of its Sherston and Tetbury branches the Avon flows south-east across
the old Malmesbury parish, turning south near
the eastern boundary. The name Ingelbourne was
applied to the Tetbury branch in the 11th or 12th
century and in the later 15th, and to the Sherston
branch in the later 13th; it may also have been
used for a stream rising south-west of the town. (fn. 23)
Most of the tributary streams cross the parish from
west to east. Gauze brook flows north-east across
the southern half of the parish to join the Avon
on the eastern boundary, and further south is a
parallel stream, formerly called the Rodbourne;
the names were in use c. 1100, when both streams
were boundaries of Rodbourne, and perhaps much
earlier. (fn. 24) The town stands on a steep sided outcrop
of Cornbrash, above 76 m. Elsewhere the steepest
slopes in the parish are around Rodbourne village.
Nowhere does the land rise much above 90 m.
and in the north and south-west it flattens out at
that height. Kellaways Clay outcrops over most
of the parish and there are small areas of Oxford
Clay. Kellaways Sand outcrops near Rodbourne,
and there are outcrops of clay of the Forest Marble
beside the Avon and in the extreme north. In the
lower parts of the parish, especially between the
town and Corston village, Cornbrash outcrops.
Alluvium has been deposited by the Avon and its
main tributaries, and deposits of sand and gravel
are in several places north of the town. (fn. 25)
Although the well watered clay soils favour pasture rather than tillage, open fields on the clay
lay south of Milbourne village and in the north.
The Cornbrash favours arable and the open fields
near Corston village were on both the Cornbrash
and clay. Most of the land between Gauze brook
and the town was pasture and parkland from an
early date. What became Cole park, beside the
Avon south of the town, was wooded in the Middle
Ages, but later there was little woodland in the
parish. In the 19th century and the 20th there
were quarries near Corston village and on the outskirts of the town, and the clay in the southern
part of the parish was used for making bricks. (fn. 26)
From 1935 the plateau in the south-western corner
has been part of R.A.F. Hullavington. (fn. 27)

Malmesbury and Westport c. 1845
In the later 17th century the Oxford—Bristol
road ran east and west through Milbourne village,
Malmesbury, and Foxley crossing the Tetbury
Avon by a stone bridge at the town's north-east
corner. (fn. 28) The main road south from the town has
always been that through Corston to Chippenham,
called Kingway c. 1100 when it may have been
on roughly its present course. (fn. 29) To the north the
Tetbury (Glos.) road also served until 1778 as a
link from Cirencester (Glos.) to Malmesbury and
Chippenham, before 1743 via the Foss Way, thereafter alternatively on a turnpike road to Tetbury. (fn. 30)
In 1756 the Tetbury—Malmesbury and Malmesbury—Chippenham roads were turnpiked to complete a Chippenham—Cirencester turnpike road via
Tetbury. By then the Oxford—Bristol road may
already have declined in importance and, east of
the town, the more northerly Cricklade—Malmesbury road and, west of the town, the more northerly Malmesbury—Sherston road were turnpiked. (fn. 31)
The road through Milbourne remained in use as
a minor road. A more direct Cirencester—
Malmesbury road was completed across Hankerton parish and turnpiked in 1778. (fn. 32) Another road,
which left the Chippenham road south-east of the
town, crossed the Avon by Cow bridge, and led
to Wootton Bassett and Swindon, was in use in
1773 and turnpiked in 1809. (fn. 33) The Chippenham,
Cirencester, and Tetbury roads were disturnpiked
in 1874, the Cricklade, Swindon, and Sherston
roads in 1876. (fn. 34) In 1973 the Cirencester—Chippenham road was diverted to bypass the town to the
east. (fn. 35) There were few minor roads in the north
part of the parish in the late 18th century. One,
linking the Tetbury and Cirencester roads, was
still in use in the late 20th century; since 1973
it has assumed greater importance by taking Chippenham—Tetbury traffic away from the town.
Another, running north-west from the linking road
east of and parallel with the Tetbury road, (fn. 36) was
in use in 1842 but not in 1885. (fn. 37) South of the
town in the late 18th century lanes led east and
south-east from the Chippenham road to Sutton
Benger, to Rodbourne village, and to a road
between Rodbourne and Stanton St. Quintin; they
were crossed by others running north-east and
south-west. Lanes led south-west from the Chippenham road 1 km. south of the town and west
from it at the north end of Corston village to Malmesbury common in Westport parish, and further
south one led west to Hullavington and another
south-west along the parish boundary towards
Castle Combe. (fn. 38) The road towards Castle Combe
went out of use in the 19th century after a road
through Hullavington village was turnpiked, but
the road to Hullavington, part of that turnpike
road, remains in use. (fn. 39) In the late 20th century
the Sutton Benger road and that leading to it from
Corston village were the only public metalled roads
east of the Chippenham road, and Common Road,
leading west from the north end of Corston village,
was the principal route to Malmesbury common.
A canal between Bristol and Cricklade passing
south-east of the town was planned in the late 18th
century but not built. (fn. 40) A railway line through
Malmesbury was proposed in 1864 but there was
no service to the town until 1877 when a branch
from the G.W.R. line at Dauntsey was opened.
The new line skirted the town to the north-east,
a tunnel was made under Holloway, and a small
station was built east of the Tetbury Avon north
of the abbey church. Part of the Bristol & South
Wales railway was built across the south part of
the parish in 1903, and in 1933 a spur was built
to connect the Malmesbury branch to that line
at Little Somerford; the southern half of the
branch was then closed. Passenger services to Malmesbury ceased in 1951, (fn. 41) and goods services in
1963 when the station was closed. (fn. 42)
Despite the literary tradition of early settlement
within the parish, little archaeological evidence of
human activity in prehistoric times has been
found. Some artifacts of the Iron Age and later
have been found in the town and in the south part
of the parish. On Cam's Hill south-east of the town
are rectangular and circular prehistoric enclosures
measuring 0.5 ha. and 0.25 ha. respectively. (fn. 43)
In 1377 a total of 556 poll-tax payers lived in
Malmesbury, in other villages in the parish, and,
probably, in the suburb of Westport. (fn. 44) The population of the parish was 1,571 in 1801. Between
then and 1851 it increased steadily to reach a peak
of 2,581, and between 1851 and 1891 it declined.
The sharpest fall, from 2,543 in 1861 to 2,306
in 1871, was ascribed to the emigration of
labourers to work in the oilfields of Ohio (U.S.A.).
In 1891, the last date for which figures are available, 2,263 people lived in what had been Malmesbury parish. (fn. 45) In 1981 the population of
Malmesbury St. Paul Without parish was 1,993. (fn. 46)
In 1773 and 1842, as presumably earlier, settlement was concentrated in the town and in Milbourne, Corston, and Rodbourne villages. There
was a group of buildings at Burton Hill and
scattered farmsteads in most parts of the parish. (fn. 47)
The histories of the villages, hamlets, and farmsteads in the parish, apart from those of Corston
and Rodbourne, which are dealt with separately,
are described below after the account of the town.
Town history. The town which grew up
around Malmesbury abbey had probably become
a local trading centre by the late 9th century. At
about that time it was included with three other
places in Wiltshire in the list of fortified centres
known as the Burghal Hidage: 1,200 hides were
assigned to defend the fort which may therefore
have had 1,650 yd. of wall. Moneyers worked at
Malmesbury from the mid 10th century and coin
evidence suggests that the town was one of the
most important in the county in the early 11th.
Its eminence was confirmed by Domesday Book,
in which it was referred to as a borough, placed
at the head of the entry for Wiltshire, and described in more detail than any other borough in
the county, although it was not necessarily the largest or most prosperous. Within the borough in
1086 the king had 26 masurae hospitate, possibly
houses let at rent, and 25 masurae exempt from
geld, perhaps occupied by the king's servants;
each masura may have consisted of more than one
house. A further 22¾ masurae were held by other
lords; in addition 8 or 11 burgesses of Malmesbury
and 5½ houses in the borough were mentioned elsewhere in the survey as appurtenant to rural estates.
Thus, although smaller than many others, the borough may have had in it 100 or more households.
The mint in Malmesbury was the only one of perhaps five in Wiltshire to be mentioned in Domesday Book. (fn. 48) Between the nth and the 16th
centuries Malmesbury's importance in the county
declined, although it was still highly assessed for
tax in 1334 and was apparently populous in 1377. (fn. 49)
In the later Middle Ages it was notable chiefly
for its abbey and for its cloth industry, which was
to remain a source of its prosperity until the mid
18th century. From the 18th century it was principally a local centre for commerce, manufacture,
and administration. (fn. 50)
Before the Conquest Malmesbury was required
to give to the king 20s. for his fleet when he went
on an expedition by sea or a man for each five
of its hides, probably three men, when he went
on an expedition by land. Such a requirement suggests that Malmesbury was already a privileged
borough. (fn. 51) A guild merchant had rights and lands
and presumably played some part in the town's
government in the 13th century. The burgesses'
privileges, including exemption from certain dues,
and lands, later called King's Heath or Malmesbury common, were confirmed in 1381 when the
burgesses made the implausible claim that they
had been granted by King Athelstan. The governing body was known from the 16th century or
earlier as the alderman and burgesses. (fn. 52) In the 16th
century the borough presumably included all the
land within the town walls, except that within the
abbey precinct, and an area in Westport beyond
the walls. The extension of the borough boundary
across the neck of land linking Malmesbury and
Westport may have been to bring within the borough the markets and settlements which had
grown up outside the confined area of the town;
a Thursday market granted in 1252 was for Westport, and both the Triangle and Horsefair in Westport, within the borough boundary, may have been
the sites of markets or fairs. (fn. 53) In the late 13th century the walled part of the town within Malmesbury parish was called Bynport to distinguish it
from Westport: the name was still in use in the
16th century. (fn. 54) The alderman and burgesses may
have exercised rights over the abbey site from the
Dissolution, but the precinct was not formally
included in the borough until 1685. (fn. 55) The earliest
map showing the borough boundary is of 1831.
The east, south, and south-west boundaries were
the two branches of the Avon, and the north was
a ditch then called Warditch. The north-western,
between the Tetbury road and the Sherston Avon
and taking in part of Westport, was in places
marked by streets but followed an indirect line
and for much of its distance no prominent feature.
Approximately a third of the borough lay in Westport parish. (fn. 56)
In 1831 it was proposed to extend the borough
boundary where each of four main roads entered
the town. There is no evidence that extensions
were made, but the urban sanitary district formed
in 1872 took in an area greater than the 1831 borough, and its boundaries were those of the municipal borough created in 1886. (fn. 57) In 1894 the
municipal borough was divided into the civil parishes of the Abbey, Malmesbury St. Paul Within,
Westport St. Mary Within, and Brokenborough
Within. The Abbey and Malmesbury St. Paul
Within included the parts of the town formerly
in Malmesbury parish. The other two were those
parts of Westport and Brokenborough parishes
brought into the urban sanitary district in 1872:
they were merged as Westport St. Mary Within
in 1897. (fn. 58) In 1934 a further 25 a. of Brokenborough
parish on the west side of the town were added
to the borough. The three civil parishes within
the borough were then merged as a new Malmesbury parish, (fn. 59) to which was added in 1956 part
of a built up area in Brokenborough and St. Paul
Malmesbury Without. (fn. 60) In 1974 Malmesbury lost
its borough status, (fn. 61) and in 1984 Malmesbury parish was extended west, north, and east, bringing
more housing within it and increasing its area from
93 ha. (230 a.) to 283 ha. (699 a.). (fn. 62)
In 1547 the adult population of the town of Malmesbury, presumably including its suburbs, was
estimated at 860, the third largest total for a town
in Wiltshire. (fn. 63) In 1801 the population of the town,
apparently defined as the borough, was 1,107. It
rose steadily to 1,624 in 1861, and in 1891 the
municipal borough had 2,964 inhabitants, of
whom 1,348 lived in that part of it which had been
in the old Malmesbury parish. Numbers fell until
1931, when the borough had 2,334 inhabitants.
The population of the enlarged borough was 2,510
in 1951; (fn. 64) in 1971, after further enlargement, it
was no more than 2,610 and in 1981 Malmesbury
parish had a population of 2,591. (fn. 65)
The chief buildings of the town stood in
Malmesbury parish on the peninsula formed by
the two branches of the Avon. At the northern
end, on the highest ground, was the abbey. In
the 1130s, when he held Malmesbury abbey and
a lease of the borough from the Crown, Roger,
bishop of Salisbury, built at Malmesbury a castle
which reportedly encroached on a graveyard
within a stone's throw of the abbey church. (fn. 66) Its
site was probably west of the church, either that
occupied in the late 20th century by the eastern
range of the Old Bell hotel, formerly called Castle
House, (fn. 67) or further west, beyond the lane which
bounded the hotel. Another suggested site, east
of the abbey church and encroaching on the
monks' graveyard, (fn. 68) offered little command of the
western approach to the town where the natural
barriers were weakest. In 1215 the Crown granted
the keeping of the castle to Malmesbury abbey,
which in 1216 was licensed to demolish it and build
on its site. (fn. 69) A document, apparently compiled by
the abbey in the later 13th century, lists obligations
to repair 26 sections of the town's wall, presumably
its whole length. Those required to repair the wall,
including the abbey itself in eight sections, were
apparently the owners of the plots in the borough
adjoining the respective sections. The correlation
between the owners and the holders of the masurae
listed in Domesday Book has given rise to the
suggestion that the walls and the obligation existed
in 1086, but it has been more plausibly suggested
that although the wall was referred to in the document as the king's wall the obligations were
imposed or defined only after the abbey acquired
the castle. The stone wall may therefore also have
been built by Roger in the 1130s. (fn. 70) Roughly parallel
with the rivers, it may have followed the lines of
earlier defences, possibly those of the later 9th century. The wall was still standing in the earlier 16th
century but was then said to be very feeble. (fn. 71) It
probably suffered further damage during the Civil
War (fn. 72) and by c. 1800 had largely disappeared. (fn. 73) The
eastern and south-eastern line of the wall was
marked in the later 20th century by the boundaries
of the plots behind Cross Hayes Lane, Silver
Street, and Ingram Street, and the western by
paths parallel with and above the lanes called Burnivale and King's Wall. To the north the wall may
survive as the garden wall of the Old Bell; east
of the Old Bell the town wall was the outer wall
of the abbey buildings which extended to the edge
of the steep slope above the river. In the late 13th
century there were at least four gates; the east gate
was across the Oxford road, there called Holloway;
Wyniard gate was a little gate at the south end
of what became Silver Street; the south gate was
at the southern end of High Street; and the postern
late 18th century. (fn. 74) In the late 20th century one
jamb of the east gate survived in Holloway, and
the rounded plan of the house at the junction of
King's Wall and High Street may have reflected
that of the west side of the south gate.

Malmesbury Boundaries 1931–1984
The plan of the town within the walls had largely
been established by the late 13th century and had
changed little by the late 20th. The extent of the
abbey precinct was marked by the southward
diversion of the old Oxford—Bristol road around
three sides of a rectangle, near the south-western
gate was at the junction of King's Wall and Burnivale. A fifth, west, gate was mentioned in the earlier 13th century and may be identified with the
bar in Westport recorded later in the century. It
was presumably across what became Abbey Row,
at or near the castle site, and foundations opposite
nos. 31 and 33 Abbey Row have been identified
as those of the gate. The gates were all ruinous
in the early 16th century. The east gate and the
postern gate were not, however, removed until the
corner of which stood St. Paul's church. The precinct may have been extended south to those
boundaries either in the 12th century, when the
abbey church was rebuilt, or by William of Colerne, abbot from 1260, in whose time the abbey
buildings were much enlarged. (fn. 75) Apart from the
abbey church and the undercroft of Abbey House,
the most substantial monastic building surviving
in the late 20th century was the central east-west
range of the Old Bell hotel. The range, of two
storeys each divided into two rooms by a central
chimney stack, was probably built in the 13th century to incorporate the abbot's lodging. The names
of streets in the town are recorded in a rental of
the late 13th century or the early 14th. High Street,
called magna strata, presumably then as later
formed the town's spine, running south from the
abbey to the confluence of the two branches of
the Avon; East Street was probably a parallel street
following the line of the later Cross Hayes Lane
and Silver Street. The streets were joined by lanes
running east and west; Philip's Lane may have
been the eastern part of the Oxford—Bristol road
which skirted the abbey precinct, known from the
17th century as Oxford Street, and Griffin's Lane
further south apparently became St. Dennis's
Lane. The name of Ingram's Lane survives as
Ingram Street. A market place adjacent to High
Street may have been that within the abbey precinct, opposite the north end of High Street, where
an octagonal vaulted market cross was built in the
15th century, or Cross Hayes which was mentioned in the rental and was presumably then as
later an open space. King's Wall lay along the outside of the west part of the wall; further north
a chapel, which became known as the Hermitage
and was demolished in the early 19th century,
stood in Westport parish between the lane later
called Burnivale and the town wall. In the late
13th century the name Burnivale was apparently
used for all or some of that part of the town which
lay within Westport parish. At the southern end
of the town Nethewall was the area between the
wall and the lower parts of High Street and Silver
Street, (fn. 76) below which Mill or St. John's bridge carried the Chippenham road across the river. St.
John's hospital (fn. 77) had been built there by the 13th
century; a blocked doorway of c. 1200 and other
medieval stonework were incorporated into the
south-west front when the hospital was rebuilt as
almshouses probably in the 17th century. (fn. 78) Other
buildings of medieval origin which survived in the
late 20th century stood on or near the boundary
of the abbey precinct. A building which became
the Green Dragon inn, north-west of the market
cross, incorporated a stairway perhaps of the 14th
century; near the south-eastern corner of the precinct Tower House, which was extended in the
17th century and later, incorporated a later
medieval roof with arch-braced collars; no. 8
Gloucester Street, formerly the White Lion inn,
had a courtyard plan and may be of 16th-century
origin. Mills were built beside the rivers on the
outskirts of the town; in the later Middle Ages
they occupied sites north of the abbey, below the
postern gate, and beside Mill bridge and Wyniard,
later Goose, bridge. In the late 13th century or
the early 14th the Tetbury Avon was crossed by
the Oxford—Bristol road over St. Leonard's, later
Holloway, bridge and by the Tetbury road over
Theyn, later Staines, bridge. (fn. 79)
The abbey church survived the Dissolution and
replaced the ruined St. Paul's as the parish church
of Malmesbury. (fn. 80) Other monastic buildings were
used as workshops in the 1540s, (fn. 81) but most were
probably demolished in the mid or late 16th century. In 1561 buildings in the borough were said
to be in great decay; (fn. 82) the description presumably
refers to the former abbey. A proposal by William
Stumpe, the purchaser of the abbey site, to build
a row or rows of weavers' houses north-east of
the abbey church (fn. 83) apparently came to nothing.
In the later 16th century, however, Stumpe's son
Sir James built Abbey House there. (fn. 84) The house
has a half H plan with two storeys and gabled attics:
its central, northern, range is over a 13th-century
undercroft, and it has short wings to the south.
The undercroft, the vaulted roof of which was
demolished, was partly filled to form a basement.
There was a hall on the ground floor of the central
range, in the east wing were parlours, and in the
west wing kitchens and service rooms. A turret,
housing a newel stair, was built in the angle
between the hall and the east wing, and the main
south front had a low porch bearing the arms of
Stumpe and his wife Isabel Baynton. (fn. 85) There was
probably a walled forecourt south of the house,
and a re-used 12th-century arch, which survived
in the late 20th century, was incorporated in the
south part of the wall in line with the porch. In
the early 19th century a low wing extended eastwards from the house and a long two-storeyed
range ran south from the west wing; both were
probably of 17th-century origin. (fn. 86) The western
extension was demolished, probably in the early
20th century when the eastern extension was replaced by a two-storeyed wing with attics similar
in style to the original building. In 1636 there were
c. 60 houses within the former precinct and most
of the inhabitants were poor. (fn. 87)
Abbey House is the only large house to have
survived from the late 16th century or the early
17th. No. 9 Oxford Street is a gabled house of
stone with a late 16th-century roof and is said to
have been used as a guildhall. (fn. 88) Partly timberframed buildings with jettied first floors survive
at nos. 6 and 10 Gloucester Street, no. 9 High
Street, and in the gabled southern wing of the
King's Arms in High Street. No. 6 Oxford Street,
sometimes called Manor House, has an elaborate
early 17th-century staircase rising through three
storeys. Houses in Abbey Row were said to have
been destroyed in the Civil War, perhaps during
Sir William Waller's capture of the town in 1643,
and there may have been other destruction arising
from the military occupation of Malmesbury, (fn. 89) but
it is not possible to identify areas of post-war reconstruction. The main range of the King's Arms is
probably late 17th-century, as is the substantial
building later subdivided into nos. 5 and 7 High
Street. The Old Brewery, north-east of the market
cross, bears the date 1672 on a gable, and the much
restored frontage of no. 46 High Street has a date
stone for 1671. Stone was the normal building
material by that time, but the chimneys of nos.
5 and 7 High Street are of red brick and have
diagonally set shafts. Away from the centre of the
town a number of smaller houses are of one storey
and attics with large gables rising from the main
elevation; examples are no. 3 Back Hill south of
Silver Street, no. 66 High Street, and no. 10 St.
John's Street.
The eastern block of King's Wall House, west
of King's Wall and in Westport parish, was built,
probably soon after 1700, with an ashlared front
of three bays and three storeys and a shell hood
over the entrance. It was extended westwards and
northwards shortly afterwards and the new sections were given old-fashioned mullion and transom windows. Other substantial houses of the
early and mid 18th century include Cross Hayes
House, which is dated 1728 and has an ashlar front
of three bays with rusticated end pilasters and a
moulded cornice, and no. 32 Cross Hayes, which
has a front of five bays surmounted by a small
central pediment. Smaller 18th-century houses are
behind modern shop fronts, and no. 36 High
Street has a date stone for 1763. Unusually for
Malmesbury no. 10 High Street has a brick façade,
apparently 18th-century, but its elaborate stone
architraves and parapet were added or renewed
in the later 19th century and its original form is
uncertain. In the last quarter of the 18th century
and the early years of the 19th much new building
took place in the town. The mill by St. John's
bridge was replaced by a cloth factory c. 1790. (fn. 90)
No. 25 Abbey Row, dated 1798, has a front of
three bays and three storeys with a projecting
architrave, a pilastered doorcase with broken pediment, rusticated quoins, and a moulded cornice
below a narrow parapet. St. Michael's House, near
the market cross, has a plainer elevation of similar
proportions and bears the date 1790. No. 63 High
Street is of two storeys with attic dormers and
a Doric doorcase. It has a front of mixed rubble
and brick, perhaps the result of alterations to an
earlier building, and was probably rendered.
Roughcast elevations are still common on buildings of the later 18th century and early 19th,
among them no. 27 Abbey Row, dated 1811, and
buildings along the east side of Cross Hayes Lane.
Many more buildings, which in the late 20th century had exposed rubble walls, were probably once
so treated. At the southern end of High Street (fn. 91)
and in St. John's Street and Silver Street are cottages, usually of two storeys with stone-slated roofs
and brick stacks, which were probably built or
altered in the early 19th century.
New building in the town centre after c. 1825
was chiefly commercial or institutional. The
northern part of Cross Hayes was the site of a
town hall and a nonconformist chapel, and another
nonconformist chapel stood nearby in Oxford
Street. Two schools and a Roman Catholic church
were built on the east side of Cross Hayes; the
former teacher's house on the same side of Cross
Hayes bears the dates 1851 and 1857 and is in
baroque style. A hospital was built north of the
market cross, (fn. 92) and houses in High Street were
refronted or rebuilt as shops and banks. No. 44
High Street has a narrow front of three storeys
with a shaped attic gable and is of bright red brick
with moulded brick decorations characteristic of
c. 1900. There was little new building in the part
of the town which had been in the old Malmesbury
parish in the 20th century. After the closure of
the station in 1962 factories, a fire station, and
an ambulance station were built on and near its
site, and new houses were built north of its site
in the 1970s and 1980s. Part of the town was designated a conservation area in 1971; the conservation
area was extended in 1987. (fn. 93)
Most of the 19th-century population increase
was achieved by greater density of occupation in
the town where there was little space for building
on new sites. On the outskirts the union workhouse
was built in Brokenborough parish (fn. 94) and cottages
were built east of Wyniard Mill beyond the
borough boundary in the earlier 19th century, and
throughout the 19th century and the early 20th
the town continued to expand into Westport. (fn. 95)
Between the early 1930s and the late 1960s the
built-up area of Malmesbury extended further
westwards (fn. 96) on land which, until 19th- and 20th century boundary changes, was principally in
Brokenborough parish and partly in Bremilham
and Westport. Between 1931, when lands called
Pool Gastons and Gastons were bought by Malmesbury borough council, and 1941 c. 60 council
houses were built in Pool Gastons Road and Athelstan Road. The former workhouse was converted
into council houses in 1936 and 1938. (fn. 97) Another
125 council houses were built between 1946 and
1956 in Alexander Road, Avon Road, Hobbes
Close, and Corn Gastons. (fn. 98) A school and a swimming pool were built, (fn. 99) and another c. 40 council
dwellings were later built in Newnton Grove and
near the swimming pool. The Parklands estate,
built on land transferred from Brokenborough to
Malmesbury parish in 1984, included c. 55 houses
and bungalows in 1958; in the late 1960s c. 84
more houses, bungalows, and sheltered homes
were built. (fn. 100) Also in the 1960s the c. 100 private
houses in White Lion Park, north of Parklands,
were built, and in place of the converted workhouse, Bremilham Rise, a row of 27 council
houses, was built. Accommodation for old people
was later built in the grounds of Burnham House
in Burnham Road. The town was extended northwards in the 1980s when c. 250 private houses
were built east of Tetbury Hill as Reed's Farm.
In the Middle Ages the knight's fees held of
Malmesbury abbey apparently constituted an
honor for which courts may have been held, and
courts for Startley, possibly Chedglow, and
Malmesbury hundreds were held at Malmesbury.
Assizes were occasionally held at Malmesbury in
the 13th century, as were quarter sessions in the
late 14th and the 15th. Private sessions allegedly
held improperly in the town in 1614 may have
been petty sessions; (fn. 101) no later reference to quarter
sessions held there has been found. In 1927 and
for much of the 20th century a bishop suffragan
of Malmesbury was appointed to assist in the diocese of Bristol. (fn. 102)
Malmesbury was directly involved in the civil
wars of both the 12th century and the 17th. After
the arrest of Roger, bishop of Salisbury, in June
1139, the castle was taken by King Stephen, lost
on 7 October of that year to Robert FitzHubert,
and recaptured a fortnight later; whether Robert
held it for himself or for the Empress Maud is
not clear. In 1144 Malmesbury was attacked by
William of Dover, a supporter of Maud, besieged
by Robert, earl of Gloucester, her brother, and
relieved by the king. In that year, presumably at
a time when she hoped that her supporters would
take and hold Malmesbury, Maud granted the borough to Humphrey de Bohun with the provision
that no new fortification should be made there. (fn. 103)
William of Dover renewed his attack in 1145 but,
although he captured the castellan, the garrison
remained loyal to Stephen. The castle changed
hands in 1153 when it was captured by Henry of
Anjou after a confrontation, but no battle, with
Stephen's army. The presence of a garrison was
apparently unwelcome to the monks; in 1151 Pope
Eugenius III required the soldiers not to trouble
the abbey, and c. 1173 Alexander III empowered
the abbot to excommunicate any of the garrison
who harmed the monks. (fn. 104)
At the outbreak of war in 1642 Malmesbury
apparently held to the parliamentary side and the
committee for Wiltshire met there. The town submitted to the royalists on 3 February 1643, the
day following Prince Rupert's capture of Cirencester, but on 23 March it was taken by Sir William
Waller for parliament. Sir Edward Hungerford
was appointed governor but changed his allegiance
and surrendered the town to the royalists on 5
April. Malmesbury may have changed hands twice
more before 24 May 1644 when Col. Edward Massey recaptured it for parliament. From then until
the late summer or autumn of 1646 a garrison numbering perhaps 1,000 men was kept in the town.
A petition was submitted to the county committee,
probably early in 1645, complaining of the cost
of the garrison to the locality and of its inadequacy
as a defence against royalist raids; the petition may
have had its result in the new regulations for the
garrison issued in July 1645. The garrison had
probably been disbanded by November 1646, (fn. 105)
but other smaller forces were stationed at Malmesbury in 1649 and 1651, and, when renewed disturbances threatened after the Restoration, in 1661
and 1663. (fn. 106) The Restoration itself was celebrated
in Malmesbury, according to John Aubrey, with
'so many and so great volleys of shot' that part
of the abbey tower fell the following night. (fn. 107)
Beside St. John's there may have been two
medieval hospitals in the town; their sites are
not known. In 1245 protection was granted to
the brethren of St. Anthony's hospital, (fn. 108) and Hugh
Mortimer, perhaps he who died c. 1180,
apparently confirmed another hospital in Malmesbury to the monks of St. Victor-en-Caux (Seine
Maritime). (fn. 109)
In 1540 there were inns in Malmesbury called
the Crown, the Lamb, the Griffin, and, perhaps,
the Red Cross. (fn. 110) The Griffin, in High Street, was
still open in 1751, (fn. 111) but had closed by 1809; (fn. 112) no
reference to the other three signs after 1540 has
been found. In 1592 seven licences to sell ale in
the town were granted (fn. 113) and in 1620 there were
12 alehousekeepers in the parish including two in
Burton Hill. (fn. 114) There were between 17 and 20 inns
and alehouses within the borough, including the
part of it in Westport parish, in the mid 18th century. The number had fallen to 11 by 1827, (fn. 115) but
had risen to 17 by 1875 perhaps as a result of the
expansion of brewing in the town. The total had
fallen again to 12 by 1927. (fn. 116) Among the oldest
houses were the White Lion in Gloucester Street,
first recorded in 1618, (fn. 117) the King's Arms in High
Street, open in the late 17th century, (fn. 118) the Old
Bell, called the Castle in 1703 (fn. 119) and the Bell in
1798, (fn. 120) and the George in High Street, open in
1823. (fn. 121) The White Lion and the George closed
after 1955; (fn. 122) the Bell, then the Old Bell hotel, and
the King's Arms remained open in 1988. Other
public houses in the town in 1988, apart from those
in Westport, were the Borough Arms in Oxford
Street and the Old Greyhound and the Rose and
Crown in High Street.
The Wiltshire and Gloucestershire Standard
was published in Malmesbury from 1837 until
1840, when the place of publication was moved
to Cirencester. (fn. 123) A monthly Malmesbury Journal
was started in the summer of 1841 but only two
editions were published, (fn. 124) and seven or more editions of a weekly Malmesbury Free Press appeared
in 1867. (fn. 125)
Malmesbury's Horticultural and Floral Society
was founded c. 1870 (fn. 126) and in the earlier 20th century held an annual show near Arches Farm in
what had been Westport parish. (fn. 127) It was disbanded
c. 1930. (fn. 128) The masonic lodge of St. Aldhelm met
in Malmesbury from 1901 and in 1906 the Royal
Arch Chapter of St. Aldhelm was formed. (fn. 129) There
was a town brass band in 1895, (fn. 130) but in 1945 its
instruments were sold. (fn. 131) A new band had been
formed by 1988. (fn. 132) The Athelstan cinema was built
north of the market cross in 1935; it had 333 seats (fn. 133)
and was closed c. 1973. (fn. 134) There was a bowling
green north of Holloway in 1831, (fn. 135) A bowling club
had been started in the town by 1923; (fn. 136) from 1948
or earlier it had greens by Goose bridge. (fn. 137) There
was a cricket club in 1895; clubs for football,
hockey, and tennis were founded after the First
World War. The hockey club had been disbanded
by 1927. (fn. 138) In 1988 the football and tennis clubs
had grounds west of Tetbury Hill and the cricket
club a ground north of the former station.
In 1837 Joseph Poole of Malmesbury owned a
travelling show, which was later managed by his
sons. As the Poole Brothers they developed the
'myriorama', an arrangement of backcloths and
mirrors, which was used to illustrate topical
events. In the 1890s they toured widely in England
and Wales from a base in Westport where the
scenery was painted. (fn. 139)
In 1980 the town celebrated the supposed
1100th anniversary of the granting of a charter
by King Alfred. (fn. 140) The date 880 was given as that
of the town's charter in a book published in or
after 1951 in which the grant attributed by the
burgesses in 1381 to Athelstan was apparently
ascribed to Alfred; (fn. 141) the date 880 was later
repeated in a history of Malmesbury. (fn. 142)
St. Aldhelm joined the monastic community at
Malmesbury as a young man, became abbot, probably in 675, and was from 705 until 709 bishop
of Sherborne (Dors.). He was buried in Malmesbury and miracles were worked at his shrine there.
William of Malmesbury (d. c. 1143) records the
tradition that John Scotus Erigena, the philosopher, lived at the abbey in the late 9th century
and was murdered there by his pupils. William
himself spent most of his life in the monastery
at Malmesbury. (fn. 143)
Burton Hill or Burton was a small suburb
of Malmesbury immediately south of the town
beside the Chippenham road. In the later 13th
century its buildings probably included the hospital of St. Mary Magdalene. (fn. 144) Part of the hospital
may have survived as a chapel which stood at the
junction of the Chippenham and Swindon roads
in 1540. (fn. 145) The chapel, used as a private house in
1768 and apparently in 1809, (fn. 146) was demolished in
the early 19th century when a new house called
Canister Hall was built on its site. The threestoreyed brick house was later called the Priory. (fn. 147)
Burton Hill House was built south of the junction
probably in the early 17th century. It was rebuilt
in 1840 or 1842 to a design by C. R. Cockerell,
the owner's brother, but part or all of the house
was burned down in 1846. It was rebuilt again
in the same year in a Tudor Gothic style, probably
again designed by Cockerell, (fn. 148) and enlarged in the
later 19th century and the 20th. (fn. 149) In the late 18th
century a farmhouse, called Manor House in 1823,
stood south-east of the junction; it was rebuilt in
the later 19th century in Tudor style and from
1925 was used as a hospital. (fn. 150) A house later called
the Beeches, another which became the Black
Horse inn, open as such in 1822, and a turnpike
cottage stood near the junction, and cottages were
scattered south of Burton Hill House in 1773. (fn. 151)
Between 1773 and 1828 there was much new building beside the Chippenham road north of the junction, presumably to house workers at the cloth
mill built near St. John's bridge, and terraces of
early 19th-century cottages survive there. Cottages
were also built south of Burton Hill House, where
a track ran south-west from the Chippenham
road, (fn. 152) and a turnpike cottage was built there after
1842. Some cottages beside the Chippenham road
had apparently been demolished by 1842. (fn. 153) In the
mid and later 19th century houses in Burton Hill
were built or rebuilt for members of Malmesbury's
landed, commercial, and professional families. (fn. 154)
A police station north of the hospital was built
later. (fn. 155) The Priory and the Black Horse were
demolished, probably in 1973 when a roundabout
was built at the southern end of the Malmesbury
bypass. (fn. 156) West of the roundabout 27 council
houses and 12 maisonettes were built shortly afterwards, (fn. 157) and in the 1980s an estate of c. 50 private
houses was built north of Burton Hill House.
Cowbridge is a settlement which has spread
north-westwards from Cowbridge Mill on the
Avon along the Swindon road towards Burton
Hill. In 1773 only the mill, on a site used since
the 13th century or earlier, and a large house beside
it were standing. (fn. 158) Cottages were built beside the
road west of the mill in the early 19th century. (fn. 159)
Cowbridge House beside the mill was rebuilt c.
1853, (fn. 160) a farmhouse north of it was probably built
then, and the Knoll, another large house 500 m.
west of it, is of similar date. In the 1880s a new
vicarage house was built north-west of the Knoll. (fn. 161)
From 1939 Cowbridge House and mill were incorporated into a factory; (fn. 162) the old buildings were
extended and new workshops and offices built. In
Cowbridge Crescent, west of Cowbridge House,
12 houses and 26 prefabricated bungalows were
built by the local authority in, respectively, 1941
and 1948 partly to house workers from the factory. (fn. 163) Most of those dwellings were later replaced
and more houses built in the 1970s and 1980s.
Milbourne was a settlement in the Middle Ages
but for that period little documentary and no architectural evidence of it survives. In the later 17th
century Milbourne was described as a 'discontinued' village on the Oxford—Bristol road, (fn. 164) indicating that its farmsteads were then, as in the later
18th century, scattered along the road which
formed the village street. (fn. 165) The wide verges of the
road were common pastures until the earlier 19th
century, (fn. 166) and the older houses stand well back
from the road. The oldest to survive are at the
western end, near the junction of the street with
Moochers Lane, later Milbourne Lane, which
leads north-west to the Cricklade road. Milbourne
House, north of the junction, incorporates an eastwest range possibly of the late 16th century. (fn. 167) In
the earlier 17th century a cross wing at the west
end and a rear kitchen wing at the east end were
added. Extensive 20th-century alterations
included the addition of a bay window on the main
south front and the fitting of 18th century panelling. Milbourne Farm, south of the junction, is
of 17th-century origin. East of those houses are
cottages and farmsteads built in the 18th century
or earlier, and the village's eastern end was marked
in 1773, as in the later 20th century, by Manor
Farm, (fn. 168) an early 18th-century stone house of three
bays. There was little new building in the 19th
century. A row of four cottages on the north side
of the village street bears the date 1901, there was
infilling north of the street in the 1930s, and 12
semidetached houses were built at the north end
of Milbourne Lane c. 1938. (fn. 169) In the later 20th century there was more infilling on the north side
of the street, houses were built on the west side
of Milbourne Lane, and two private estates of
bungalows and houses were built, Monks Park on
the common pasture south of the street, and Milbourne Park west of Milbourne Lane. When the
bypass was built in 1973 the street was closed west
of the village and Milbourne Lane became the
principal western approach to the village.
Whitchurch. There was a settlement, probably including a chapel, at Whitchurch in the 13th
century. (fn. 170) Perhaps in the late 17th century and certainly in the late 18th Whitchurch comprised a
single farmstead. Before 1670 the chapel was incorporated into Whitchurch Farm; its 'steeple' was
demolished c. 1675. (fn. 171) Parts of a late medieval building survive as the western end of the long 17thcentury domestic range. That range was altered
in the 18th century when a small central pediment
above a pedimented porch was added to the north
front and much of the interior was refitted. At
the centre of a range of brick buildings north-west
of the house is a square tower dated 1797. A garage,
a small farmstead, several houses, and a water
tower were built north of Whitchurch, later Whychurch, Farm beside the Cirencester road in the
late 19th century and the 20th.
Other settlement.
The abbot of Malmesbury
had a lodge, which may have been in use in the
13th century (fn. 172) and was standing in 1540, in Cowfold park. (fn. 173) Its site was presumably that of the mansion called Cole Park built south of the town from
the later 16th century. (fn. 174) A grange in Cowfold park
in the early 16th century (fn. 175) is likely to have been
on the site of either Lawn Farm or Grange Farm,
neighbouring farmsteads north-west of Cole Park.
Lawn Farm, perhaps used as one of two lodges
for officers of the royal stud farm in Cole park
in the earlier 17th century, (fn. 176) is an L-shaped 17thcentury house within which survive parts of two
cruck trusses; it was extended and refronted in
the early 19th century. The farmhouse of Grange
farm was rebuilt in the 1820s. (fn. 177) West of Corston
village there was a lodge in West park, presumably
on the site of West Park Farm, in 1653. (fn. 178)
A building which stood north of Holloway
bridge in 1773 (fn. 179) may have been the Duke of York
inn, open in 1822; (fn. 180) the inn was rebuilt in the
1960s. Cottages were built north-east of it in the
18th century and the 19th; with some 20th-century
buildings they formed the hamlet known in the
later 20th century as Blick's Hill.
Most outlying farmsteads in the old Malmesbury parish occupy sites which were in use in the
18th century and probably earlier. Farmsteads on
the sites of those later called Whiteheath, north
of Corston village, Rodbourne Rail, south of Cole
Park, and Burnt Heath, north-west of Whiteheath,
were standing in 1729, 1770, and 1773 respectively. (fn. 181) Quobwell Farm and Coldharbour
Farm, north of the town, were built in the mid
18th century and Southfield Farm, south of Milbourne village, was built between 1773 and 1802. (fn. 182)
Lower West Park Farm was built on a new site
north of West Park Farm between 1842 and 1885, (fn. 183)
and the Coopers' Arms, beside the Tetbury road
north-west of Quobwell Farm, was open as an inn
in 1875 (fn. 184) and converted to a farmhouse after
1927. (fn. 185)
Manors and other Estates.
The BOROUGH of Malmesbury belonged to the king in
1086. He then received the third penny; the
remaining two thirds were held at farm by Walter
Hosed. Of 73¾ masurae 52, probably including
10 formerly held by Earl Harold, were held by
the king, 4½ were held by Malmesbury abbey, and
the remainder by 15 different lords. (fn. 186)
Hugh, provost of Malmesbury, paid £20 for the
farm of the borough in 1130. (fn. 187) Between 1136 and
1139 King Stephen granted the lordship of the
borough to Roger, bishop of Salisbury, his justiciar, who had taken possession of Malmesbury
abbey in 1118. The lordship presumably reverted
to the Crown after the bishop's disgrace and death
in 1139. (fn. 188) In 1144 Maud granted it to Humphrey
de Bohun but the grant may not have taken effect. (fn. 189)
The borough was apparently part of the dowry
of Berengaria, wife of Richard I, which was withheld from her by John presumably from Richard's
death in 1199. (fn. 190) In 1204 John granted the borough
to his queen, Isabel, as dower, (fn. 191) and in 1215 he
gave it in fee farm to Malmesbury abbey. (fn. 192) The
abbey held it until the Dissolution for £20 a year. (fn. 193)
The alderman and burgesses held it at fee farm
from 1566 until 1598 or later. (fn. 194)
By 1628 lordship of the borough had been
granted, under the name of MALMESBURY
manor, to Henry Danvers, earl of Danby (fn. 195) (d.
1644), (fn. 196) who devised it to his nephew Henry
Danvers. From Henry (d. 1654) the manor passed
in moieties to his sisters Elizabeth and Anne. (fn. 197)
Elizabeth (d. 1709) and her husband Robert
Danvers, formerly Villiers (d. 1674), held her
moiety in 1673. (fn. 198) Anne (d. 1659), wife of Sir
Henry Lee, Bt. (d. 1659), was succeeded by her
daughters Eleanor, later wife of James Bertie,
Baron Norreys (cr. earl of Abingdon 1682), and
Anne, later wife of Thomas Wharton (Baron
Wharton from 1696, cr. earl of Wharton 1706, cr.
marquess of Wharton 1715). (fn. 199) The settlement
made on the Whartons' marriage in 1673 provided
for the division of Anne Lee's estates; the
Whartons' portion probably included her moiety
of Malmesbury manor. The settlement was later
disputed (fn. 200) but in 1685 Thomas and Anne Wharton
held both Anne Lee's and Elizabeth Danvers's
moieties. (fn. 201) On Wharton's death in 1715 the manor
passed to his son Philip, marquess of Wharton (cr.
duke of Wharton 1718, d. 1731), whose estates
were confiscated when he was outlawed for treason
in 1729. In 1733 the estates were settled on trustees
for payment of his debts and afterwards for his
sisters and coheirs, Jane, wife of Robert Coke,
and Lucy (d. s.p. 1739), wife of Sir William
Morice, Bt., (fn. 202) and in 1743 were sold on Jane's
behalf. Malmesbury manor was bought by Sir
John Rushout, Bt. (fn. 203) Sir John was succeeded in
1775 by his son Sir John (cr. Baron Northwick
1797, d. 1800), whose relict Rebecca (fn. 204) retained
the manor until her death in 1818. (fn. 205) She devised
it to her younger son the Revd. George RushoutBowles. (fn. 206) George was succeeded in 1842 by his
son George Rushout (Baron Northwick from
1859, d. 1887), whose relict Elizabeth may have
held the manor until her death in 1912; (fn. 207) the reversion was sold in lots in 1896. The manor then
comprised c. 80 a. in the town. (fn. 208)
The lands which became Malmesbury parish
were probably held by Malmesbury abbey from
its foundation, but the copies of charters granting
them are suspect. The monks claimed to have
received an estate called Malmesbury, the site of
the abbey, by a grant of 675 from Bishop Leutherius and Rodbourne and Corston by a grant of 701
from King Ine. The boundaries of an estate of
100 hides called Brokenborough, said to have been
confirmed to the abbey by King Edwy in 956, were
surveyed in the nth century or the 12th when
they included all of what became Malmesbury
parish and other lands. (fn. 209) In 1066 Gilbert and Godwin each held an estate of 1 hide said to be in
Malmesbury; those estates were held by the bishop
of Coutances and by Chetel respectively in 1086. (fn. 210)
The later history of those estates has not been
traced, and from 1086 to 1539 Malmesbury abbey
owned virtually the whole parish apart from the
borough.
Malmesbury abbey claimed to have been
granted the estate later called COWFOLD as part
of the Brokenborough estate by King Edwy in 956,
but is likely to have held it much earlier. Between
1066 and 1086, when it was part of the Brokenborough estate, the abbey apparently granted it
for knight service. (fn. 211) It later recovered it and by
the early 13th century had imparked part of it.
In the late 13th century the Cowfold estate apparently included the abbey's Corston land. (fn. 212) Cowfold passed to the Crown at the Dissolution, when
Corston was a separate estate, and in 1548 as Cowfold manor was granted to Edward Seymour, duke
of Somerset. (fn. 213) The manor presumably escheated
on his attainder in 1552. (fn. 214) In 1556 lands at Cow
fold, probably part of the manor, were granted
to the hospital of the Savoy, London, on its refoundation; (fn. 215) they were restored to the Crown by
exchange in 1558. (fn. 216) In 1560 or earlier Cowfold
grange and c. 80 a. were granted to Edward
Welsh; (fn. 217) the greater part of the estate, c. 650 a.,
was retained by the Crown. (fn. 218)
Between 1653 and 1656 the Crown's Cowfold
estate was sold as COLE PARK to Hugh Audley (fn. 219)
(d. 1662), (fn. 220) who was succeeded by his nephew
Robert Harvey. (fn. 221) In 1694 the estate, 520 a., was
settled on Robert's grandson John Harvey (d.
1712), (fn. 222) who was succeeded by his son Audley. (fn. 223)
In 1725 Cole park was held by another John
Harvey (fn. 224) (fl. 1767), (fn. 225) in 1770 by another Audley
Harvey. (fn. 226) Audley (d. 1774) (fn. 227) devised it for life to
his daughter Sarah (fl. 1783), wife of John Lovell,
with remainder to her son Peter Lovell. (fn. 228) From
Peter (d. 1841) it passed in turn to his son Peter
(d. 1869) and the younger Peter's son Peter (d.
1909), whose relict Rosalind (fn. 229) (d. 1945) devised
it to her grandnephew Capt. A. D. C. Francis.
In 1945 Capt. Francis sold the house called Cole
Park, the parkland, and Rodbourne Rail farm, a
total of 120 a., to J. F. Fry. (fn. 230) The house and parkland were sold by Fry in 1954 to Frank and Avril
Darling, by the Darlings in 1955 to Mr. E. J. M.
Buxton. In 1978 Mr. Buxton sold Cole Park and
8 a. to C. L. McMiram, from whom they were
bought in 1980 by Sir Mark Weinberg, the owner
in 1987. (fn. 231) Mr. P. Roberts bought Lawn farm, c.
270 a., from Capt. Francis c. 1977 and remained
the owner in 1987. (fn. 232)
The moated site of Cole Park may be that of
the abbot of Malmesbury's lodge. (fn. 233) A lodge for
the royal stud in the park stood there in the late
16th century and the early 17th. (fn. 234) A tall red-brick
range of the mid or later 16th century, (fn. 235) which
formed most of the north-east part of the house
in the later 20th century, was probably a wing
of a house whose main range lay to the north-west.
A plan to rebuild the house c. 1625, when Sir
George Marshall, lessee of the stud, received £100
of £500 promised for the construction of a new
lodge, (fn. 236) may have had little effect. The house was
described c. 1650 as 'a very fair brick building'
of two storeys with a large courtyard and a moat. (fn. 237)
In the late 17th century a large staircase was built
at the south-western corner of the wing, and the
hall, immediately north-west of the staircase, was
altered or rebuilt. Additions were made, probably
then, north-east and south-west of the hall to create
a new north-western entrance front. That front
and the south-west front were refaced in the later
18th century, perhaps in 1775–6 when building
work at the house was recorded (fn. 238) and minor
additions, apparent from dark headers in the brickwork, were being made to the 16th-century part
of the house. The north-west side of that part was
refaced in the later 19th century and its north-east
end was rebuilt with an oriel overlooking the moat
in 1981. About then ground-floor additions were
made south-east of the wing and much of the inside
of the house was altered and redecorated. The
moat, surviving in 1987, is almost square and has
walled sides and a paved floor. New buildings of
the 18th century include a stable and a coach house
flanking an entrance court north-west of the house.
The estate granted to Edmund Welsh in 1560
was later called GRANGE farm. Sir James Stumpe
held it at his death in 1563; (fn. 239) thereafter it passed
with Rodbourne manor to Walter Hungerford (d.
1754). (fn. 240) By 1752 Hungerford had sold Grange
farm to Edmund Estcourt (fn. 241) (d. 1758). (fn. 242) It passed
to Estcourt's relict Anna Maria (d. c. 1783) and
daughter Anne, who apparently held jointly, and
in 1766 was settled on the daughter's marriage
to William Earle (d. 1774). Anne Earle (d. 1776)
devised the farm to William Edwards her son perhaps by Earle. In 1787 Edwards sold it to Edmund
Wilkins (d. 1804), who devised it to his nephew
Edmund Gale (d. 1819). Gale's heirs sold the farm
in 1829 to Peter Lovell (fn. 243) (d. 1841), and Lovell's
relict Charlotte (d. 1854) (fn. 244) devised it to their sons
Peter, Frank, and Willes. Peter Lovell apparently
bought his brothers' shares of the farm c. 1855; (fn. 245)
thereafter it passed with Cole Park to Capt. A.
D. C. Francis, who held the farm, c. 200 a., in
1987. (fn. 246)
WEST PARK, c. 150 a., was held with Cole
Park until 1653 (fn. 247) but by 1694 and been sold separately. (fn. 248) Its owners in the late 17th century and
the earlier 18th have not been traced. It was held
by Richard Watts c. 1770 (fn. 249) and by the heirs of
John Watts in 1780. (fn. 250) In 1789 it was sold, (fn. 251) probably to George Garlick, the owner in 1790. Garlick
and another George Garlick held West park in
1820; by 1827 it had passed to a Mrs. Garlick
and Isaac Berry. (fn. 252) In 1839 Mary Berry held West
park, 139 a. (fn. 253) It was owned by Michael Hulbert
in 1865, (fn. 254) by Henry Wellesley, Earl Cowley, in
1910, (fn. 255) and by W. W. West in 1912. (fn. 256) By 1927
the estate had been divided into smaller holdings. (fn. 257)
Malmesbury abbey's lands at Burton Hill were
a distinct estate in the 13th century and at the
Dissolution. (fn. 258) As the manor of Burton or BURTON HILL they were granted by the Crown in
1552 to John Dudley, duke of Northumberland,
who conveyed the manor in 1553 to Sir James
Stumpe (fn. 259) (d. 1563). It passed to Stumpe's
daughter Elizabeth, wife of Henry Knyvett. (fn. 260) In
1570 the Knyvetts conveyed the manor to William
and George Wynter, (fn. 261) perhaps trustees for Sir
Thomas Gresham who sold it to Edward Carey
and William Doddington in 1574. (fn. 262) Carey and
Doddington sold Burton Hill manor in 1577 to
Adam Archard and Thomas Hall, (fn. 263) who in the
same year sold several parts of it. The rest, still
called Burton Hill manor, passed on Archard's
death in 1588 to his son Nicholas. (fn. 264) In 1616 Nicholas sold the estate to Anthony Risby (fn. 265) (d. 1626),
who devised it for sale; it then comprised c. 40
a. (fn. 266) In 1638 it was held by Zacharias Ward. (fn. 267) The
estate was probably that described as Burton Hill
manor which Thomas Ridler and his wife Anne
held in 1724. (fn. 268) In 1748 Anne, then a widow, held
it, perhaps jointly with her daughters Barbara
Ridler and Anne, wife of William Pinn. (fn. 269) By 1782
it had passed to Joseph Cullerne, (fn. 270) who in 1794
sold it to Thomas Brooke. In 1800 Brooke sold
the estate to Edmund Wilkins (d. 1804), (fn. 271) who
devised it to Elizabeth Dewell and her sister
Mary. (fn. 272) By will dated 1805 Elizabeth devised her
interest in the estate for life to Mary (fl. 1809),
with reversion to their nephew the Revd. Charles
Dewell. (fn. 273) In 1823 the whole estate, then the house
called the Manor House and 99 a., was settled
on Charles. (fn. 274) On his death in 1828 it passed to
his wife Sarah, later wife of W. R. Fitzgerald, and
on her death in 1863 to Charles's nephew C. G.
Dewell. In 1863 Dewell sold the estate to the Revd.
Thomas Brindle and the Revd. William Brindle. (fn. 275)
The lands were thereafter dispersed, the house
later became part of the Burton Hill House estate,
and the lordship was sold in 1867 to T. D. Hill. (fn. 276)
The manor house and c. 250 a. of Burton Hill
manor were bought from Archard and Hall by
Richard Cowche (fn. 277) (d. by 1588), who was succeeded in turn by his son Richard (fn. 278) (d. 1596) and
Richard's son Richard (fn. 279) (d. 1611). The estate
passed to the last Richard's nephew Richard
Cowche, (fn. 280) who held it in 1638. (fn. 281) Before 1714 John
Scrope bought c. 170 a. in Burton Hill from a
Richard Cowche. As WHITEHEATH farm the
lands had by 1720 passed to his son Richard, who
was succeeded in turn by his son Richard (d. 1787)
and Richard's son William, who sold the farm in
1810 to Giles Canter. (fn. 282) It was held in 1839 by
Giles's son Joseph (d. 1865). (fn. 283) In 1910 and 1912
trustees of the Canter family held it; (fn. 284) by 1927
it had passed presumably by sale to M. H.
Chubb, (fn. 285) who still held it in 1939. (fn. 286) In 1985 R.
Alvis sold 103 a., comprising most of Whiteheath
farm, to Mr. P. J. Pritchard, the owner in 1989. (fn. 287)
In 1577 Adam Archard and Thomas Hall sold
lands of Burton Hill manor to Henry Grayle. (fn. 288)
In 1612 Grayle and his son David bought COWBRIDGE Mill and other lands, also part of the
manor, from Nicholas Archard. (fn. 289) Their holding
comprised 20 a. and the mill in 1615. (fn. 290) In 1706
that estate was sold by George Forman to George
Ayliffe, (fn. 291) whose son John sold it in 1715 to Walter
Trimnell. (fn. 292) By will proved 1832 Daniel Young
devised it to his daughter Elizabeth. (fn. 293) In 1839 the
mill and Cowbridge farm, 38 a., were held by S.
B. Brooke (fn. 294) (d. 1869) whose nephew, the Revd.
Charles Kemble (d. 1874), devised it to his wife
Charlotte (d. 1890) for life. In 1882 Charlotte
settled the reversion of Cowbridge House and c.
50 a. on her son Stephen Kemble. (fn. 295) The estate
was offered for sale in 1893 (fn. 296) and 1894, (fn. 297) and was
bought in 1899 by Baldomero de Bertodano (fn. 298) (d.
1921). (fn. 299) It was sold in 1923, (fn. 300) probably to Sir Philip Hunloke, the owner in 1927, (fn. 301) who sold it in
1938 to E. K. Cole Ltd. (fn. 302) In 1989 Cowbridge
House belonged to AT & T Telecommunications
UK Ltd., (fn. 303) the farmland to Mr. K. F. Edwards. (fn. 304)
The house was designed in 1853 by John Shaw
with an Italianate south garden front. It had terraced gardens adjacent to it, and stood in a larger
garden or small park with lawns and walks. (fn. 305)
Lands of Burton Hill manor bought from
Archard and Hall in 1577 by Ralph Slifield (fn. 306) probably passed to Francis Slifield (d. 1620), who was
succeeded by his brother Matthew. (fn. 307) By 1627 the
lands had passed to Adam Peddington or Tuck
(d. 1628), whose estate of 24 a. and 4 yardlands
in Burton Hill, including lands formerly belonging
to a Slifield, was divided between his nephews
Adam Peddington and John Peddington. (fn. 308) The
estate may have been that bought from Robert
and Margaret Tuck by Edmund Estcourt (d.
1758), who held other lands in Burton Hill. (fn. 309)
An estate of c. 50 a. in Burton Hill held by
Anthony Clase in 1623 (fn. 310) may have derived from
that bought from Archard and Hall by John Young
in 1577. (fn. 311) Clase (d. 1626) devised the estate to
Christopher and Thomas Meade. (fn. 312) By 1678 it had
passed to Anne, relict of the Revd. Nathaniel
Ashe, in 1680 wife of Thomas Petty. (fn. 313) It was sold
by Anne's daughter Anne Ashe to Matthew Smith
in 1693. (fn. 314) Smith sold part of it to Edmund Estcourt (fn. 315) (d. 1717) and part in 1742 to Estcourt's
cousin and heir Edmund Estcourt (d. 1758), (fn. 316) who
held c. 100 a. in Burton Hill. Those lands passed
with Grange farm to William Edwards who sold
his Burton Hill estate in 1787 to Timothy Dewell
(d. 1792). Dewell devised the estate, including
BURTON HILL HOUSE, to his wife Elizabeth
and his sister Mary Dewell. It was sold in 1792
to Francis Hill (d. 1828) and, after litigation over
Hill's will, in 1833 to Simon and Isaac Salter. The
Salters apparently sold the estate in parcels; the
house and 35 a. had been bought by John Cockerell
by 1839. (fn. 317) Between 1846 and 1849 Cockerell sold
his estate to C. W. Miles (fn. 318) (d. 1892). (fn. 319) It passed
in turn to Miles's sons C. N. Miles (d. 1918) and
A. C. Miles (d. 1919), (fn. 320) after whose death the Burton Hill House estate, then c. 120 a., was broken
up and sold. (fn. 321) Burton Hill House and some land
in Malmesbury were probably then bought by H.
L. Storey (d. 1933). (fn. 322) In 1945 the house and 16
a. were bought for use as a school for handicapped
children by the Shaftesbury Society, the owner
in 1987. (fn. 323)
BURNT HEATH farm, c. 80 a. north of West
park, was held by Alexander Staples in 1585 and
by George Staples in 1599. (fn. 324) Before 1766 the farm
was bought from William Robins by William
Earle (fn. 325) (d. 1774). It presumably passed with
Grange farm to William Edwards and was probably sold in or after 1787. (fn. 326) In 1839 the farm, c.
60 a., belonged to Richard Perrett (fn. 327) and in 1865
to J. G. Lyne. (fn. 328) H. C. Lyne was the owner in
1910 (fn. 329) and 1912. (fn. 330) The farm was sold in 1927,
after the death of his relict. (fn. 331) It was bought in
1957 by Mr. A. R. Highman, the owner in 1989. (fn. 332)
Whitchurch was described as a manor in the
mid 13th century, (fn. 333) and from the mid 16th the
manor was usually called WHITCHURCH and (or
with) MILBOURNE. (fn. 334) It passed from Malmesbury abbey to the Crown at the Dissolution and
in 1545 was granted to Richard Moody (fn. 335) (d. 1550).
It passed like Garsdon manor to Richard's relict
Catherine Basely, to Richard Moody (d. 1612),
and to Sir Henry Moody, Bt. (d. 1629). (fn. 336) In 1630
Sir Henry's relict Deborah surrendered her life
interest to her son Sir Henry Moody, (fn. 337) who sold
the manor, probably in 1630, (fn. 338) to Henry Danvers,
earl of Danby, the owner in 1636. (fn. 339) From Danby
(d. 1644) it passed with Malmesbury manor to
Henry Danvers (d. 1654) and, possibly in portions, to Elizabeth, wife of Robert Villiers or
Danvers, Anne, wife of Sir Henry Lee, Eleanor,
wife of James Bertie, Baron Norreys, and Anne,
wife of Thomas Wharton: (fn. 340) the whole manor was
sold in or after 1681. (fn. 341) In 1684 the lordship and
some of or all the lands belonged to George Hill
who in 1707 sold them, as Whitchurch manor,
to Francis Hayes, his mortgagee. (fn. 342) Hayes (d. in
or before 1724) was succeeded by his son Charles (fn. 343)
who sold the manor in 1729 to Jonathan Willis (fn. 344)
(will proved 1732). Willis was succeeded by his
daughter Sarah who sold it in 1762 to William
Bouverie, Viscount Folkestone (fn. 345) (cr. earl of
Radnor 1765, d. 1776). William's son Jacob, earl
of Radnor, (fn. 346) sold it c. 1820 either to John Howard,
earl of Suffolk and of Berkshire (d. 1820), or his
son Thomas, earl of Suffolk and of Berkshire. (fn. 347)
In 1839 Lord Suffolk owned c. 950 a., including
most of the land around Milbourne and the 360
a. north of the town and almost detached from
the rest of Malmesbury parish. (fn. 348) With Charlton
manor and the titles it descended to Michael Howard, from 1941 earl of Suffolk and of Berkshire. (fn. 349)
In 1987 Lord Suffolk retained most of the northern
part of the estate, then in Quobwell farm, and
lands north of Milbourne village. In 1978 Mr. R.
A. Clarke bought Manor farm, Milbourne, 200
a., which he owned in 1987. (fn. 350)
Lands of Whitchurch and Milbourne manor
were apparently sold separately in the late 17th
century or the early 18th. They included 30 a.
bought from Francis Hayes by Henry Croome (fl.
1717). Croome's daughter Rebecca sold the land
in 1729 to Humphrey Woodcock (d. 1754), who
devised it to his nephew Charles Williamson. (fn. 351) In
1756 Williamson bought 179 a., formerly part of
the manor, from Frederick St. John, Viscount
Bolingbroke. (fn. 352) Williamson's estate, including
SOUTHFIELD farm, passed on his death in 1760
to his niece Sarah Kyffin and her husband
Matthew Sloper. In 1770 Sloper sold it to William
Bouverie, earl of Radnor, (fn. 353) and it again became
part of Whitchurch manor. Southfield farm, 175
a. in 1839, (fn. 354) was owned by Mr. R. G. Baker in
1987. (fn. 355)
In 1717 Henry Croome held a further 26 a. formerly part of Whitchurch and Milbourne manor.
The land was sold by another Henry Croome in
1741 to William Earle, (fn. 356) who bought 170 a. in
Whitchurch and Milbourne from Henry Brooke
in 1763. (fn. 357) Those lands passed with Grange farm
to William Edwards, who in 1787 sold them to
Richard Kinneir as WHITCHURCH farm. (fn. 358)
Kinneir or a namesake held the farm in 1839. (fn. 359)
In 1850 and 1852 it was offered for sale as a farm
of 200 a. (fn. 360) The farmhouse and 75 a. belonged in
1865 to the Revd. E. E. Elwell. (fn. 361) Members of the
Elwell family owned it in 1910 and 1927. (fn. 362) That
farm and other lands, 156 a. in all, were bought
in 1941 by John Weaver; 60 a., part of Milbourne
farm, were added c. 1977, and in 1987 the farm,
then called Whychurch, belonged to John's son
Mr. Edward Weaver. (fn. 363)
Milbourne farm, presumably derived from
Whitchurch and Milbourne manor, belonged in
1839 to Isaac Beak. (fn. 364) In 1910 Daniel Beak owned
103 a., (fn. 365) and those and other lands, totalling 152
a., were owned in 1927 by William Spong (fl.
1931). (fn. 366) Some of the land became part of
Whychurch farm; (fn. 367) the farmhouse and other land
were bought c. 1987 by members of the Wickes
family. (fn. 368)
The lands south-west of the town and mainly
in Westport parish, which were held from the 13th
century or earlier by the guild merchant and in
1989 by the warden and freemen of Malmesbury,
included c. 50 a. in Malmesbury parish. (fn. 369)
Malmesbury abbey appropriated the parish
church of Malmesbury in or after 1191, (fn. 370) and
owned the RECTORY estate until the Dissolution.
Thereafter most rectorial tithes passed with the
estates from which they derived, but those from
the Cowbridge estate were apparently owned
separately from the land. In 1735 they were conveyed by Thomas Boucher, perhaps a trustee, to
William Carey. In 1789 Carey's son William sold
them to Samuel Brooke (fn. 371) (d. 1837), whose son
S. B. Brooke held both the estate and the tithes
in 1839. (fn. 372) Rectorial tithes from the lands of Whitchurch and Milbourne manor passed with the
manor to Sir Henry Moody, Bt. (d. 1629), (fn. 373) but
he or a later lord of the manor apparently sold
some. Between 1765 and 1774 tithes from part
of the manor were bought by William Bouverie,
earl of Radnor, lord of Whitchurch and Milbourne
manor. (fn. 374) In 1839 all rectorial tithes in the parish
were merged or held by the owners of the lands
from which they arose. (fn. 375)
In 1232 Bradenstoke priory owned a house near
one of the guildhalls in Malmesbury, and c. 1252
William Porter gave the priory a tenement in High
Street. (fn. 376) In the mid and later 13th century Nicholas of Malmesbury gave a tenement in East Street,
William Spicer gave a rent of 15. from a tenement
in East Street, and Andrew son of John of Malmesbury gave a rent of 3s. (fn. 377) The priory retained a
small estate in Malmesbury until the Dissolution. (fn. 378)
In the Middle Ages small estates in Malmesbury
also belonged to two chapels, St. Mary's, possibly
the hospital of St. Mary Magdalene, and All
Saints'. (fn. 379) At their dissolution in 1548 St. Mary's
chantry in St. Paul's church had tenements in the
town and 17 a. elsewhere in the parish, and St.
Mary's chantry in Westport church included c.
4 a. and tenements in Malmesbury parish. (fn. 380)
St. John's hospital in Nethewall, said in 1389
to have been founded by the burgesses, in the late
13th century occupied a site which comprised
lands formerly belonging to William Aldune and
Thomas Purs and a parcel called De Profundis.
In 1247 Walter Bodmin and his wife Emme gave
two messuages to the hospital, the property of
which was valued at 465. in 1389. It was presumably dissolved and its lands confiscated by the
Crown in the mid 16th century. John Stumpe
acquired part of the property from John Marsh
and William Marsh and part from John Herbert
and Andrew Palmer. In 1580 Stumpe conveyed
the whole to the alderman and burgesses of
Malmesbury, (fn. 381) who maintained an almshouse in
the former hospital from 1584 or earlier. (fn. 382)
Agriculture.
On the two small estates called
Malmesbury in 1086 there was a total of 1½ ploughteam, 5 bordars, 10 a. of meadow, and 3½ square
furlongs of pasture. The bishop of Coutances had
demesne of 3 yardlands. A vineyard was planted
on a hill north of the abbey in the early 11th century; another, planted in the later 13th century, (fn. 383)
may have given its name to Wyniard Mill on the
eastern edge of the town. (fn. 384) No later reference to
viticulture has been found.
In the Middle Ages and later Malmesbury parish, apart from Corston and Rodbourne, included
c. 650 a. to the south in Cole park and West park;
c. 600 a. of agricultural land between the parks
and the town were worked from farms based in
or near Burton Hill, c. 500 a. east of the town
were worked from farmsteads in or south of Milbourne, and c. 500 a. north and north-east were
worked from Whitchurch or farmsteads north of
it. (fn. 385)
Parks. Part of Malmesbury abbey's estate called
Cowfold was woodland in the late 12th century (fn. 386)
and may then or soon afterwards have been
imparked. In 1235 the abbot was given two bucks
from Braydon forest for his park of Cowfold. (fn. 387)
In the mid 15th century there was a second park,
West park, presumably west of the MalmesburyChippenham road. (fn. 388) In 1535 the Cowfold estate
included a park of 300 a., meadow land of 100
a. in closes, both in hand, and 40 a. of pasture
and arable held by a tenant. (fn. 389) The tenanted land
with other lands and the grange, later called
Grange farm, c. 1550 comprised 78 a. including
4 a. in the open fields of Burton Hill. (fn. 390)
In the mid 16th century Cowfold, later Cole,
park, 300 a., and West park, 200 a., accommodated
a royal stud farm, (fn. 391) known as the race. (fn. 392) The stud
was administered by a yeoman or groom of the
race. The first may have been Ralph Bolton (fl.
1555–9), who was involved in a dispute when
fences around Cowfold park were broken and
cattle were driven in. (fn. 393) The title yeoman of the
race was recorded in 1583, when Ralph Slifield,
the yeoman, was commissioned to take for the stud
forage of 40 qr. of oats from Wiltshire and another
40 qr. from Gloucestershire. (fn. 394) In the early 17th
century the yeoman received a fee and a further
26s. 8d. for every colt raised. In 1621 there were
also three servants and a farrier at the stud. (fn. 395)
According to a report made before 1587 the site
of the stud was unsuitable; the area was too small,
and drainage and soil were poor. It was suggested
that fodder should be produced in West park if
that from the larger Cole park was insufficient.
There were then 34 mares and 31 young horses
in Cole park. By the 1590s numbers had fallen
to 24 mares and 27 young horses, some of which
had been carelessly bred. Walls and fences were
in poor repair, and most of the great trees with
which the park had been well supplied c. 1550
had been felled. (fn. 396) Cattle and sheep were kept in
the parks; in 1599 there were 85 cows and calves
and 80 ewes. (fn. 397) Improvements were made in the
early 17th century. In 1608–9 a stone wall was
built around Cole park, (fn. 398) and in 1628 there were
37 mares and 35 young horses. (fn. 399) By 1628 the parks
had been leased but the stud remained there, on
payment of a fee to the lessee, (fn. 400) until c. 1630. (fn. 401)
By 1653 both parks had been disparked. About
500 a. in closes represented the former Cole park;
c. 70 a. were meadow and some former pasture
had been ploughed. Of the former West park, 166
a., some land was arable and 16 a. were wooded. (fn. 402)
In the 18th and 19th centuries c. 200 a. around
Cole Park were again parkland. The rest of the
former park was in Wood farm, Lawn farm, and
Rodbourne Rail farm in the early 18th century. (fn. 403)
In the 1730s a three-year rotation was practised
at Wood farm; clover was grown every third year. (fn. 404)
In 1767 Lawn farm comprised 145 a. north of Cole
Park, including 32 a. of arable. (fn. 405) In 1796 Rodbourne Rail farm comprised 119 a. south of Cole
Park. (fn. 406) South of Lawn farm, Grange farm was
108 a. in 1764 when over half of it was arable. (fn. 407)
What had been West park was apparently worked
as a single farm until the early 19th century. (fn. 408) The
lands of the two former parks were mostly pasture
in 1839, except for 24 a. of wood east of West
Park Farm. (fn. 409) In 1927 only c. 60 a. around Cole
Park remained parkland. Lawn farm was then 229
a., Rodbourne Rail farm 188 a., Grange farm 99
a., and West Park farm 86 a.; there were also three
smaller holdings in what had been West park. (fn. 410)
In the later 20th century all but c. 8 a. of the
park (fn. 411) was agricultural land: Lawn farm and
Lower West Park farm were principally dairy
farms but there was also some arable. (fn. 412)
Burton Hill. Open arable fields of Burton Hill
were the subject of an agreement between Malmesbury abbey and the lord of Bremilham manor in
the early 13th century when the abbey proposed
to cultivate temporarily inclosed parts of the fallow
field. The lord of Bremilham and his tenants
apparently held land and pasture in those fields,
two of which were called Ham and Kemboro
fields. (fn. 413) Kemboro field may have lain partly in
Westport parish and was still open in the 17th century, when there were also fields called Shelfield
and Burton field. (fn. 414) From the later 14th century
part of the demesne pasture of Burton Hill was
shared with one or more tenant. (fn. 415) The chief pastures of Burton Hill were presumably Burnt heath
and Whiteheath to the south-west. Part of Burnt
heath had been ploughed by the early 14th century, (fn. 416) and by the late 16th much of it had been
inclosed. (fn. 417) Much of Whiteheath was a several farm
in the early 18th century. (fn. 418)
In the late 13th century Malmesbury abbey had
16 tenants, presumably customary, at Burton
Hill. (fn. 419) In the mid 16th there were 12 customary
tenants; 4 held a total of 5 yardlands, the others
may have had smaller holdings. Works, including
two days cutting and carting hay, had almost certainly been commuted by then. There were five
leaseholders, excluding tenants of mills; one, with
several pasture and 'lords lands' in Kemboro field,
held what may have been the demesne. (fn. 420) In 1585
Burnt Heath was a several farm of c. 80 a. (fn. 421)
In the 17th and 18th centuries farms derived
from Burton Hill manor numbered about five;
most were smaller than 100 a., and the largest was
Whiteheath farm. There were also holdings of only
a few acres. Part of Whiteheath farm was arable
but the smaller farms were chiefly pasture and
meadow. (fn. 422) Part of Kemboro field had been
inclosed by 1679 (fn. 423) and part of Burton field by 1764;
apparently the whole of Shelfield remained open. (fn. 424)
By 1839 all arable had been inclosed and only a
few acres of pasture, beside a track between Burnt
Heath and Whiteheath farms, remained common.
There were then c. 400 a. of pasture and c. 120
a. of arable around Burton Hill. Whiteheath, still
the largest farm, was a compact holding of 147
a. west of the Chippenham road. There were seven
farms of between 20 a. and 100 a., and c. 130
a. were in holdings smaller than 20 a. (fn. 425) In 1866
stock on all those farms included 65 cows, 57 other
cattle, 140 sheep, and 70 pigs. (fn. 426) Most of the land
around Burton Hill was pasture in the 1930s; (fn. 427)
in the later 20th century farms remained small,
dairying continued, but there was also some arable
farming. (fn. 428) On Whiteheath farm, 103 a. in the
1980s, pedigree cattle were bred and in winter
store lambs were kept. (fn. 429)
Milbourne. South field, south of Milbourne
village and recorded in the early 17th century, (fn. 430)
had probably been an open field, and the men of
Milbourne had common grazing for horses and
perhaps other beasts on c. 30 a. beside the village
street. (fn. 431) They also had unrestricted grazing rights
in Braydon forest and its purlieus: the nearest
point at which their animals could enter the purlieus was c. 4 km. east of the village. Milbourne
common, 104 a., allotted to them when the purlieus were inclosed in the early 1630s, remained
a common pasture and they could feed c. 68 cattle
on it. They may also have shared Lot meadow,
which in 1792 comprised 15 a. south of the village. (fn. 432)
In 1630 the Milbourne portion of Whitchurch
and Milbourne manor included a leasehold of 133
a., most of which was a pasture close called Southfield and which may have been largely demesne.
The manor also included 920 a. apparently held
by copy; there were 4 holdings of over 50 a. each,
9 of between 20 a. and 50 a., and 18 smaller than
20 a. Most of the land was inclosed but 91 a.,
of which 28 a. were exclusive to copyholders, were
still worked in common; whether the 91 a. were
in Milbourne or Whitchurch is not clear. (fn. 433)
Lands south of Milbourne village were said in
1756 to have been recently inclosed. (fn. 434) Lot meadow
and Milbourne common were inclosed in 1792
under an Act of 1790; allotments in Milbourne
common were made to 10 landholders. (fn. 435) The
Home common, beside Milbourne village street,
was inclosed by an agreement of 1831. (fn. 436)
In 1802 Southfield farm, c. 170 a., was a compact holding south of the village worked from a
farmstead recently built on a new site near the
parish boundary. What became Manor farm, c.
130 a. east of the village, and what became Milbourne farm, c. 110 a. scattered around the village,
were worked from farmsteads beside the street.
There were over 300 a. of pasture, c. 75 a. of
arable, and c. 50 a. of meadow. (fn. 437) On Southfield
farm c. 1800 were 100 sheep, 40 cows and 18 young
cattle, and 10 colts. (fn. 438) The former Milbourne common, held in parcels in 1802, was in 1839 all in
the lord's hand, but there had been few changes
in the size or number of farms. (fn. 439) In the early 20th
century the lands were in three farms of c. 150
a. each; (fn. 440) there was arable north of the village but
not elsewhere in Milbourne in the 1930s. (fn. 441)
Whitchurch. In the 17th century and probably
earlier Whitchurch had fields called North and
Coldharbour. (fn. 442) There was common pasture for
beasts and sheep on Whitchurch marsh and Wallow marsh, north and north-west of Whychurch
Farm, a total of 46 a. in 1792; (fn. 443) in the earlier 18th
century haywards for the pastures were appointed
at Whitchurch and Milbourne manor courts. (fn. 444) .
Whitchurch farm, possibly demesne land, was
held by lease in the early 17th century; it then
comprised 174 a., perhaps including land outside
the parish, and pasture rights in Whitchurch and
Wallow marshes. Other leaseholds in the Whitchurch portion of Whitchurch and Milbourne
manor were of no more than 30 a. each. All or
part of Coldharbour field may have been open in
1695, (fn. 445) but open-field cultivation had probably
ceased by the late 18th century. In 1792, under
the Act of 1790, Whitchurch and Wallow marshes
were inclosed and allotments in them were made
to eight landholders. (fn. 446) In 1802 most of the Whitchurch portion of the manor lay in three compact
farms. The most southerly, Whitchurch, 316 a.
including 116 a. in Westport parish, was worked
from buildings on a site north-east of Malmesbury
which had long been in use; Quobwell, c. 290 a.
north of Whitchurch, and Coldharbour, c. 65 a.
further north, were worked from farmsteads probably built on new sites in the 18th century. Over
400 a. were pasture, less than 100 a. arable; (fn. 447) the
extent and number of the farms had changed little
by 1839. (fn. 448)
In the earlier 20th century Quobwell farm comprised c. 200 a., Coldharbour farm c. 100 a., and
Whitchurch farm c. 75 a.; 50 a. were worked as
part of Griffin's Barn farm based in Charlton parish. (fn. 449) North of Quobwell Farm was arable in the
1930s; most of the remaining land was then pasture. (fn. 450) In 1987 most of what had been Coldharbour
farm was part of Quobwell, 311 a., and Griffin's
Barn farms; Whitchurch was then c. 130 a. All
were dairy and arable farms. (fn. 451)
Trade and Industry.
The range of trades
in Malmesbury in the mid 13th century is illustrated by the claim of the guild merchant to rights
allegedly denied by the abbot of Malmesbury: that
only its members might sell cloth, leather goods,
fish, sheepskins, or hides within the borough, that
no glover from outside Malmesbury might sell
gloves made of horse skin, and that no wool merchant might trade with his own weights. (fn. 452) The
outcome ot the dispute is not known. Late 13thcentury surnames also suggest that the leather and
cloth trades were prominent (fn. 453) and there may have
been a tannery near Postern Mill. (fn. 454) A fulling mill
was recorded in the late 12th century (fn. 455) and the
production of woollen cloth apparently remained
Malmesbury's chief industry throughout the later
Middle Ages.
In 1542 John Leland reported that 3,000 cloths
were produced at Malmesbury yearly. (fn. 456) Wool was
presumably bought at markets in north Wiltshire
and Gloucestershire; a Malmesbury clothier
bought yarn at Cirencester from a Northampton
supplier. (fn. 457) Broadcloths from Malmesbury were
sold in London in the early 16th century and the
early 17th. (fn. 458) The most notable clothier in the town
in the earlier 16th century was William Stumpe,
who used the buildings of the dissolved monastery
to house perhaps as many as 20 looms. (fn. 459) The names
of nine Malmesbury clothiers of the later 16th century and the earlier 17th are known. Between them
they apparently occupied most of the mills on the
outskirts of the town. Wyniard Mill, Postern Mill,
and Cowbridge Mill were all held by clothiers during that period. A new fulling mill beside St.
John's bridge was built c. 1600 by Nicholas
Archard, and William Hobbes, who then held Postern Mill, complained that the course of the Sherston branch of the Avon had been altered to his
detriment. (fn. 460) Archard's business failed and he sold
the fulling mill, Cannop's Mill, in 1622. (fn. 461) Malmesbury was still said to have 'a great name for clothing' c. 1650 (fn. 462) but thereafter references to the
industry are less frequent. There was still a dye
house at Wyniard Mill in 1653, (fn. 463) a clothier and
a silk weaver were in the town in 1687, (fn. 464) and some
woollen manufacture was said to have continued
until c. 1750. (fn. 465)
The woollen industry was revived c. 1790 when
Francis Hill bought Cannop's Mill and built a new
cloth mill, Burton Hill Mill, on its site. Hill chose
Malmesbury, away from existing areas of cloth
production, so that he could install modern
machinery without opposition. The mill, which
had been enlarged by 1803, used the spring loom
or fly shuttle, powered by water, to produce superfine broadcloth. Hill also owned Postern Mill from
1793. Burton Hill Mill was closed c. 1825 (fn. 466) and
in 1831 was used as a corn mill. (fn. 467) It was reopened
for cloth production by members of the Salter
family in 1833 (fn. 468) and by 1838 steam power had been
introduced. (fn. 469) Woollen broadcloths were produced
throughout the 1840s. Woollen cloth was also dyed
and finished at Cowbridge Mill in the 1830s and
1840s. (fn. 470) Burton Hill Mill was bought c. 1850 by
Thomas Bridget & Co. of Derby and converted
to produce silk ribbon. The ownership, but not
the use, of the mill changed several times in the
later 19th century. In 1862 there were 56 power
looms and 281 workers. Numbers employed were
said to have risen to 400, perhaps an exaggeration,
by 1867. In 1900 there were 150 employees: the
mill was closed soon afterwards. It had reopened
by 1923 (fn. 471) and, with an interruption during the
Second World War, continued to produce fancy
silk and cotton goods until c. 1950. (fn. 472) For some years
thereafter part of the building was used for dressing furs and skins. (fn. 473) The mill was used for the storage and sale of antiques in the 1970s (fn. 474) and as
workshops for light engineering between 1980 and
1984, and in 1984 it was sold for conversion to
flats. (fn. 475)
Before Burton Hill Mill was opened lace making
was one of the town's chief occupations. Many
of the workers were women and were recruited
to work in the mill, although they could earn more
by making lace. In the 19th century the industry
declined in the face of competition from machinemade lace, (fn. 476) but women and children continued
to make pillow lace throughout the century. (fn. 477) In
the 1830s and 1850s lace was sent from Malmesbury to Wales and Lancashire. (fn. 478) After 1900 there
was a revival under the patronage of Mary Howard, countess of Suffolk and of Berkshire, and a
Mrs. Jones one or both of whom opened a school
in Malmesbury to teach lace making, (fn. 479) but little
or no lace was made in the town after 1914. (fn. 480)
Gloves were still made at Malmesbury in the
mid 17th century. (fn. 481) In the 18th century most of
the trades practised there and not connected with
textile production were those usual in a market
town, and only a few may have been of more than
local importance. (fn. 482) A firm of parchment makers,
William Browning & Co., was recorded in the town
in 1750, there was a glover in Westport in 1751,
and parchment, gloves, and glue were all made
c. 1800. (fn. 483)
There were two brewers and four maltsters in
Malmesbury and Westport parishes in 1830. (fn. 484) In
1848 there were breweries in High Street and
Cross Hayes; a third, later called Abbey brewery,
was south of Abbey House. That in High Street
was owned by Thomas Luce who in 1859, with
a partner, had breweries in Cross Hayes and Westport; the latter was probably that later called Mill
brewery, on the site of and incorporating Postern
Mill. By 1867 he had been succeeded by C. R.
Luce, who from c. 1875 owned both Abbey and
Mill breweries. (fn. 485) In 1912, when there were 42 public houses tied to his breweries, he sold them to
the Stroud Brewery Co. (fn. 486) Mill brewery was still
in use in 1935–6, (fn. 487) but from 1941 was no longer
used for brewing. (fn. 488) Abbey brewery may also have
been closed c. 1940. (fn. 489) Esau Duck owned Cross
Hayes brewery in 1875 and 1885. In 1895 and
1910 the brewery traded as Duck & Reed, in 1915
as Duck & Co. (fn. 490) In 1920, when it had 20 tied
houses, it was taken over by the Stroud Brewery
Co.; it may have been closed with Abbey brewery
c. 1940. (fn. 491)
Edwin Ratcliffe opened a foundry, later known
as Westport Ironworks, in the north-western part
of the town c. 1870. Up to 12 men were employed
in the late 19th century and the early 20th in making and repairing agricultural and other machinery. (fn. 492) There was an engineering workshop in the
foundry buildings in 1988.
From 1877 or earlier bacon was cured in a
factory belonging to Adye & Hinwood Ltd. in Park
Road. In the 1930s much of the bacon was
exported but later most was for home consumption. Some 500 pigs were killed weekly c. 1950,
but the number had fallen to 200 by 1956. (fn. 493) The
factory was closed c. 1965 (fn. 494) and was demolished.
West of it in Park Road from the mid 20th century
was a slaughterhouse, used in 1987 by V. & G.
Newman, and in 1987 the premises of Ready Animal Foods, pet food wholesalers, were nearby.
In 1923 Wilts. & Somerset Farmers Ltd. had
a milk depot in Park Road. (fn. 495) The depot belonged
c. 1950 to Wiltshire Creameries Ltd.; milk was
treated there and up to 60 lb. of cheese produced
daily. (fn. 496) The depot had been closed by 1974 and
in 1986 its site was converted into small industrial
units. (fn. 497)
The town was a local commercial centre in the
19th century. A bank was opened in St. Dennis's
Lane after 1800, and in 1813 Thomas Luce became
a partner in it. Luce was later the bank's sole proprietor and sold it in or after 1836 to the Wilts.
and Dorset Banking Co. Ltd. The bank became
part of Lloyds Bank Ltd. between 1911 and 1915.
The North Wilts. Banking Co. took over the business of a smaller Malmesbury bank c. 1836, and
its successor, the Capital and Counties Bank Ltd.,
had a branch in the town until 1915 or later. (fn. 498)
Two companies which were moved to Malmesbury shortly before and during the Second World
War remained in the town after 1945. E. K. Cole
Ltd., manufacturers of 'Ekco' radio, electrical,
and electronic equipment, bought Cowbridge
House in 1939 and built a factory adjacent to it. (fn. 499)
In the 1940s and early 1950s radar equipment was
produced and there were c. 1,000 employees.
Domestic electrical goods were produced after
1958 and continued to be made after 1963 when
E. K. Cole Ltd was absorbed into the Pye group
of companies. From 1968 Pye-TMC Ltd. and
from 1971 TMC Ltd. developed and produced
telephone equipment on the site. New buildings
were erected in 1975 and 1982. In 1987 AT &
T and Philips Telecommunications UK Ltd.
acquired the site jointly and in 1988 employed 400
people in research into and the development and
manufacture of telephone transmission and
switching systems. (fn. 500) In 1941 Linolite Ltd., originally makers of lighting fittings but then producing hose clips for use in aeroplanes and tanks, was
moved from London to the former Mill brewery
in Malmesbury. After 1945 the firm again produced lights, especially gas-filled tubes, and in
1952 employed c. 50 people. A new factory was
built north of the town in 1985. In 1988 Linolite
Ltd., then a subsidiary of the General Telephone
and Electronics Corporation, employed 290
people. (fn. 501)
After the closure of the railway in 1962 (fn. 502) several
small factories were built on and near the site of
the station. In 1988 sheet metal and traffic lights
were among the goods produced.
Mills.
In 1066 Earl Harold held a mill at
Malmesbury. (fn. 503) It may have stood, as did most of
the mills recorded later, beside one or other branch
of the Avon on or a little outside the borough
boundary. Another, whose location is not known,
was recorded in the 13th century, and in the late
13th century Malmesbury abbey had a mill on its
Cowfold estate; (fn. 504) that mill was not afterwards
mentioned.
A mill held in the 13th century by William of
Westmill (fn. 505) may have been in Westport parish, perhaps below the postern gate where a mill stood
apparently from the 12th century or the 13th. (fn. 506)
Postern Mill, which belonged to Malmesbury
abbey at the Dissolution, in 1539 incorporated a
corn mill and a fulling mill; (fn. 507) the fulling mill may
have been standing in 1605. (fn. 508) In 1610 Postern Mill
and a possibly adjacent corn mill were sold with
Wyniard Mill to Sir Peter Vanlore; (fn. 509) they may have
been the two mills held by John Waite in 1702. (fn. 510)
Waite and a namesake held one of the mills in
1725. (fn. 511) Postern Mill was in use, presumably as
a corn mill, in 1830; it was bought by Thomas
Luce in 1834 and converted to a brewery soon
afterwards. (fn. 512)
'Schotesbure' Mill, which stood beside a road
leading southwards from the town in the late 13th
century or the earlier 14th, (fn. 513) was probably that
east of St. John's bridge later held of Burton Hill
manor and called Cannop's Mill. (fn. 514) In the late 13th
century, as in the 16th, the bridge was called Mill
bridge, (fn. 515) and the mill was standing near it in
1480. (fn. 516) Between 1535 and 1564 the millers were
members of the Cannop family. In 1564 John Cannop was fined for overcharging. (fn. 517) From the early
17th century buildings on the site of the mill were
used chiefly in the production of cloth. (fn. 518)
Cowbridge Mill, standing in the late 13th century, (fn. 519) also became part of Burton Mill manor. (fn. 520)
Although it seems to have been principally a grist
mill, it was held by clothiers in the early 17th century and the early 19th. (fn. 521) The mill and mill house
were rebuilt c. 1850. In 1875 and 1882 the mill
was leased to a Malmesbury brewer. (fn. 522) Water power
was still used in 1894; (fn. 523) by 1910 the mill had apparently been converted to generate electricity for
Cowbridge House. (fn. 524)
A mill beside the abbey garden in 1535 (fn. 525) was
presumably Abbey Mill, north of the abbey
church. It was part of Malmesbury manor in the
18th century and the early 19th, and was leased
with Abbey House; (fn. 526) in 1808 the tenant was a
brewer. (fn. 527) The mill was probably in use in 1910
but closed soon afterwards. (fn. 528)
Wyniard Mill north of St. John's bridge was
also standing in 1535. (fn. 529) It passed from Malmesbury abbey to the Crown at the Dissolution and
was sold in 1610 to Sir Peter Vanlore, whose relict
Catherine, then wife of Peregrine Pelham, held
it in 1653. (fn. 530) It was bought by John Estcourt c.
1662, (fn. 531) and passed in the Estcourt and Dewell
families, from 1717 with land in Burton Hill and
Burton Hill House, (fn. 532) until it was sold in 1865. (fn. 533)
In 1535 and 1585 the mill was leased to members
of the Stumpe family and may have been used
for cloth production. In 1585 it was said to require
extensive repairs. (fn. 534) On its site in 1653 were two
corn mills and a dye house; (fn. 535) repairs costing £100
were made to either one of or both the mills c.
1662. (fn. 536) In the 19th century millers at Wyniard Mill
usually followed an additional trade, in 1839, 1848,
and 1867 that of brewer or maltster, in 1859 that
of millwright, and in 1885 those of timber merchant and builder. Water and steam powered the
mill in 1895;it probably passed out of use shortly
afterwards. (fn. 537)
A water mill, part of Whitchurch and Milbourne
manor in 1539, (fn. 538) perhaps stood by the Tetbury
Avon north-east of the town. It passed by exchange
from Sir Henry Moody, lord of the manor, to
Thomas Howard, earl of Suffolk, in 1614. (fn. 539) It may
have been standing in 1720 (fn. 540) but was not in use
in 1802. (fn. 541)
Markets and Fairs.
Malmesbury was a market
town until the mid 20th century but as such never
seems to have been as popular as Chippenham,
Tetbury, or Cirencester, all within 17 km. of it.
In the Middle Ages market and fair tolls were taken
by Malmesbury abbey (fn. 542) and later passed as part
of Malmesbury manor to George Rushout, Baron
Northwick (d. 1887), whose trustees sold them
in 1896 to the borough council. (fn. 543) Probably from
then until 1941 the markets were administered by
a committee of the council. (fn. 544)
Until 1223 a Saturday market was held partly
within and partly outside a graveyard, presumably
that of St. Paul's church. Thereafter it was to be
held in the New Market, (fn. 545) perhaps the area within
the abbey precinct where the market cross was
built in the 15th century. The market was confirmed by the borough charter of 1635. (fn. 546) For much
of the 19th century, when it was held in Abbey
Row, the area either around the market cross or
west of the abbey church, meat and other provisions were sold at it. It ceased c. 1890. (fn. 547)
A cattle market, held at first on the last Tuesday
and later on the last Wednesday of each month,
was started c. 1790. Like the Saturday market it
was held in Abbey Row in the 19th century. In
the 1840s and 1850s the market was not held
between March and May. (fn. 548) It had become a
general market by 1950, (fn. 549) but a monthly cattle
market was again held, on land near the railway
station, between 1956 and 1966. (fn. 550)
In 1252 Malmesbury abbey was granted a
Thursday market to be held in Westport, (fn. 551) but
no such market is known to have been held.
Between 1900 and 1945 a general market was held
on Wednesdays in Cross Hayes. (fn. 552) References to
a pig market in the 1760s and 1770s, (fn. 553) and to a
corn market in High Street, perhaps at the north
end near the market cross, in 1809, (fn. 554) imply that
those markets were sometimes held in the town.
William I granted to Malmesbury abbey a fair
on three or five days including St. Aldhelm's day,
25 May. A five-day fair was granted or confirmed
by William II, and extended by Maud to eight
days, including the three days before the feast and
the four days after it. (fn. 555) In 1252 the abbey was
also granted a yearly fair on its manor of Whitchurch for three days at the feast of St. James,
25 July. (fn. 556) St. Aldhelm's fair was held on St. Aldhelm's mead south-west of the town, (fn. 557) and in the
16th century was said to have been so large that
a company of soldiers was present to keep order. (fn. 558)
It and St. James's fair were reduced to one day
each and three other fairs, on 17 March, 17 April,
and 17 October, were added by the borough
charter of 1635. (fn. 559) One or more of the fairs may
have been held in Horsefair, in Westport, first
mentioned by name in the late 17th century; (fn. 560) in
the 19th century the Triangle in Westport was also
called Sheep Fair. (fn. 561) In the late 18th century and
the early 19th there were three fairs, (fn. 562) and between
1842 and 1867 yearly fairs, at which horses, cattle,
and sheep were sold, were held on 28 March, 28
April, 5 June, and 15 December. By 1875 the fairs
had ceased. (fn. 563)
Local Government.
The borough of
Malmesbury may have had powers of self government from the early Middle Ages. (fn. 564) Outside the
borough, Malmesbury parish seems likely to have
contained several tithings, Burton Hill, Milbourne, Rodbourne, and Corston. (fn. 565)
Borough government.
Malmesbury was probably already a privileged borough in 1086. (fn. 566) There
was a guild merchant in the early 13th century:
presumably in 1215 when it became fee-farmer of
the borough, (fn. 567) and certainly before 1222, Malmesbury abbey excused members of the guild and
other inhabitants of the borough from payment
of certain scotales in return for a fine and an annual
rent to be paid by the hand of the guild steward. (fn. 568)
In the mid 13th century the guild comprised an
alderman, 2 stewards, and 16 or more other members; the 19 apparently formed a body governing
the borough and guild. In an exchange with the
abbey in the mid 13th century the guildsmen surrendered part of Portmans heath and received
Cooks heath, Broad croft and the assart which
separated it from Cooks heath, and another assart
on Burnt heath. (fn. 569) The lands presumably lay southwest of the town mainly in Westport parish, among
those which belonged to the borough in the 16th
century and were known from the early 17th as
King's Heath. (fn. 570) The holding was of 700 a. in the
early 19th century. (fn. 571) In the later 14th century there
were in the borough, in addition to the guild,
groups of men called half-hundreds and hundreds.
In 1370 the half-hundreds were called Bynport and
Westport; the hundreds were called Coxfort,
Thornhill, Davids, Fishers, Glovers, and Taylors,
names which suggest that the grouping was partly
by trade. An agreement of that year, intended to
make the assessment of the scotale fairer, required
payment only from members of the guild, halfhundreds, and hundreds, and implied that those
were the wealthier inhabitants. The half-hundreds
and hundreds included members of the guild, (fn. 572) and
it seems likely that each group had specified rights
over the borough's lands.
The borough ascribed an early origin to its privileges. A charter of 1381 confirming them related
that King Athelstan confirmed privileges held in
the time of his father, that he granted freedom
from burghbote, brugbote, wardwyte, horngeld,
and scot, and that he gave 5 hides of heath near
Norton; the gift was described as a reward to the
men of the town for their help in campaigns against
the Danes. (fn. 573) The attribution of those actions to
Athelstan may represent a tradition surviving in
1381 or an attempt to provide a title to rights and
privileges long held. The 1381 charter was confirmed at various dates, lastly in 1604. (fn. 574)
Many of the functions of government normally
performed by the corporation of a borough were
retained in Malmesbury by the manor court, (fn. 575) and
there is little evidence of the corporation's responsibility for the regulation of trade or the administration of justice before the 17th century. In the
16th century the corporation consisted of a company of 13 burgesses including an alderman and
two stewards, (fn. 576) and three other companies, the
twenty-four, the landholders, and the commoners.
Every man who was born in the town, married
to a woman born there, or resident for three or
more years in what was described as an ancient
tenement was eligible to become a commoner. He
did so by entering one of the six hundreds; by
1600 the half-hundreds of Bynport and Westport
had disappeared and Davids had become Davids
Loynes hundred. Men apparently entered a
hundred primarily to acquire rights to the common
land. The companies were distinguished by the
extent of their rights in King's Heath. The commoners had only grazing rights but the twentyfour, the landholders, and the burgesses, including
the alderman, had in addition small several holdings. (fn. 577) In the mid 16th century some burgesses'
places were vacant, apparently because their portions of King's Heath were poor. At the instigation
of John Jewell, bishop of Salisbury, Cooks heath
was inclosed and divided between four burgesses
c. 1570; the full number of burgesses was thereupon restored. (fn. 578)
In the early 17th century the rights of the alderman and burgesses to inclosed lands, then totalling
100 a., were challenged by members of the other
companies who claimed that the land should be
common. In 1609 it was agreed that a representative of each of the four companies should be
appointed to resolve the dispute. The four agreed
that the alderman and burgesses should retain their
closes on payment to the steward of £20 a year
for the general benefit, that closes held by the
twenty-four and the landholders should be
retained by them, and that the remainder of the
land, the greater part, should remain common
under new regulations. The settlement was
defined in ordinances published by a Chancery
decree in 1610. An attempt was made in the same
year, presumably by those who had earlier challenged the burgesses' rights, to have the decree
dismissed, and in 1611 the burgesses' inclosures
were broken. At the annual meeting of the alderman and burgesses in the town hall in 1612 their
opponents occupied the burgesses' benches and
may have attempted to set up a rival form of
government by 12 overseers selected from all members of the corporation, then called the free burgesses. During subsequent litigation it was claimed
that government by the alderman and burgesses
was an innovation of the 1560s, that previously
government of the town was by a head bailiff, two
constables, and wardsmen or assistants, elected
annually at the court leet of Malmesbury manor,
and that the ordinances of 1610 were drawn up
without the knowledge of those who later opposed
them. (fn. 579) The decree, however, seems to have
remained in force from 1612, with the slight variation that there were four stewards, one from each
company. (fn. 580)
A commission issued in 1631 to inquire whether
King's Heath was Crown land which had been
concealed may have been the product of further
disputes within the borough or an attempt by the
Crown to reclaim the freehold of the land. Perhaps
to settle a dispute or remove uncertainty created
by the commission, the borough obtained a new
charter in 1635. The composition of the corporation was little changed. Thereafter the burgesses
were called chief or capital burgesses and the
twenty-four were called assistant burgesses, but
the landholders and commoners were still so
called. Membership of each company was for life;
vacancies in each of the senior companies were
to be filled by election from the immediately inferior company. The capital burgesses, of whom
there were 12 in addition to the alderman, were
to elect annually a lawyer as steward, later called
the high steward, to advise them. The preamble
of the charter referred to a need for better means
of keeping the peace within the borough. The
alderman, elected annually, was therefore to be
a justice of the peace, the coroner, and the clerk
of the market. A court was to be held every three
weeks for civil cases, and the corporation, meeting
in the common hall, was empowered to make regulations for the government and victualling of the
borough, enforceable by fines. It was also allowed
to appoint two serjeants-at-mace. (fn. 581)
Attempts by Charles II and James II to control
parliamentary elections brought changes in the
constitution of Malmesbury as of most boroughs.
In or before 1668 the corporation defended a quo
warranto, presumably successfully. (fn. 582) Another quo
warranto, issued in 1684, (fn. 583) was not contested (fn. 584) and
a new charter was granted to the borough in 1685.
It provided for the capital burgesses to keep their
number at 12 (beside the alderman) by choosing
new burgesses to fill vacancies from members of
the whole corporation, for the high steward, or
in his absence the deputy steward, to act as a justice
of the peace in addition to the alderman, and for
the officers of the corporation to be removable by
the Crown. The precinct of the former abbey was
for the first time expressly included within the borough. (fn. 585) In 1690 the constitution of 1635 was restored (fn. 586) and in 1696 a new charter was issued. It
confirmed the liberties and franchises held under
the charter of 1635, and the provisions of 1685
for the inclusion of the abbey precinct in the borough and the appointment of the high steward or
his deputy as a justice. (fn. 587)
In the early 19th century the qualifications for
becoming a commoner, then also known as a free
burgess, were apparently a matter of dispute. An
inquiry held in 1821 found that the right belonged
to every resident of an entire tenement in the
borough who was of age, married, and either the
son of a commoner or married to a commoner's
daughter. (fn. 588) In the 1840s the alderman and burgesses attempted to limit admission as commoners
to those who lived in ancient tenements, apparently without success. (fn. 589) Complaints were made
about the administration of justice in Malmesbury
and the character of its alderman and burgesses
in the 1830s, (fn. 590) but the constitution of the borough
remained unchanged until 1886. It was then incorporated as a municipal borough, under the Municipal Corporations Act of 1882, with a mayor, four
aldermen, and 12 councillors. (fn. 591) In 1974 the
borough became part of North Wiltshire district. (fn. 592)
The principal borough court recorded from
1600 was held annually, usually on the Tuesday
after Trinity Sunday in a room in the former St.
John's hospital. In the 17th and 18th centuries
it was presumably convened, as later, by the alderman; it is not clear how it proceeded. The principal
business was probably the election of aldermen
and stewards, but the elections are recorded only
from 1613. New commoners were admitted to the
hundreds on payment of a fine. Regulations were
made for grazing on the part of King's Heath not
inclosed, called Malmesbury common from the
18th century; those who broke the rules were
fined. Until 1614 an account of rents received from
those holding closes in King's Heath was presented regularly in the name of the alderman and
stewards; thereafter accounts were only occasionally recorded. In the 19th century the alderman
and stewards elected at the Trinity court were
sworn at a Michaelmas court and other courts were
held for the election of capital and assistant burgesses, the nomination of landholders, and the
admission of commoners as need arose. (fn. 593) No
record survives of the three-weekly court provided
for by the charter of 1635.
Courts called borough sessions, at which the
alderman and deputy steward presided, are
recorded from 1712 to 1741. They were held
yearly, usually in April or October, presumably
in the same place as the borough court. Orders
were made concerning the repair of roads and
bridges, apprenticeships, and the setting of poor
rates, and weights used in the markets were tested.
From 1729 constables were appointed. (fn. 594) The
borough sought the right to hold separate quarter
sessions c. 1750, (fn. 595) apparently without success.
Borough sessions were still held in 1876, (fn. 596) but presumably ceased in 1886. (fn. 597) From 1842 or earlier
petty sessions for Malmesbury hundred were also
held in the town. (fn. 598) Petty sessions continued to be
held in Malmesbury; from 1973 they were held
by Chippenham magistrates sitting in Malmesbury
town hall fortnightly. (fn. 599) Between 1830 and 1854
the alderman exercised the right to act as coroner,
granted in the 1635 and 1696 charters. (fn. 600) The
borough was included in the North Wiltshire coroner's district in 1860. (fn. 601)
In the 13th century there were two guildhalls
in the borough, one in Malmesbury parish and
one in Westport parish. (fn. 602) After the Dissolution the
corporation bought St. Paul's church and in 1542
used the east end as a town hall. (fn. 603) What was called
the church house, presumably the east end of St.
Paul's, was used for meetings in 1691 and, of the
alderman and capital burgesses, in 1709. (fn. 604) In 1580
the alderman and burgesses bought the site of St.
John's hospital. (fn. 605) The building was later used as
almshouses, a school, and from 1616 the usual
meeting place of the borough court. (fn. 606) No. 9 Oxford
Street was owned by the corporation and may also
have been used for meetings in the 18th century
when it was called the Guildhall; such use had
ceased by 1794. (fn. 607) A town hall was built in Cross
Hayes in 1854 and enlarged in 1927. (fn. 608) It was used
as the offices of the municipal borough council
from 1886 and of the town council from 1974. (fn. 609)
In 1622 the corporation decided that each burgess should pay 5s. yearly to the alderman towards
the cost of a dinner on the day of the borough
court. The total allowance to the alderman was
increased from £3 to £10 in 1652. (fn. 610) An allotment
of land on King's Heath, known as the alderman's
kitchen, later replaced the payments. (fn. 611)
In 1886 the borough lands, including Malmesbury common, were retained by the old corporation under a new name, the warden (later the
burgesses) and freemen of Malmesbury. That
body also became the trustees of several borough
charities. The structure of hundreds and companies was retained and in 1988 three courts were
still being held yearly in the court room of St.
John's almshouses to admit commoners, elect officers, and administer property. (fn. 612)
In the late 18th century a tradition existed that
a common seal had been in use in the 1550s and
had born the legend commun[e] sigill[um]
burg[i] de malmesbury. (fn. 613) The borough arms, as
depicted on a seal matrix cast in the late 16th century or the 17th, were an embattled castle or
gateway flanked by two round towers and surmounted by a third from the dome of which flew
a pennon; in base the waters of Avon, on each
side a teazle or wheat plant; in chief a blazing star
and crescent, and in the dexter chief three pellets.
The matrix, 6.3 cm. in diameter, bears the legend
sigil[lum] com[mune] ald[e]r[man]i et burgen[sium] burgi de malmesbury in com[itatu]
wilts. A second matrix, 5.6 cm. in diameter, has
the same device, except that the three pellets are
in the sinister chief, and a similar legend, with
the addition of the date 1615. Two smaller
matrices, one perhaps of the early 17th century,
bear reduced versions of the arms shown on the
matrix of 1615 and of the undated legend. (fn. 614)
The borough possessed two silver-gilt maces,
possibly of the mid 17th century, each 71 cm. long,
and two silver maces, hallmarked for 1703, each
82 cm. long. A cross on the head of one of the
older pair was renewed in brass. Both the seals
and the maces were held by the warden and freemen from 1886 and remained in use in the later
20th century. (fn. 615)
In 1950 arms were granted to Malmesbury borough council: parted saltirewise argent and gules,
a cross botony in chief a Saxon crown and in base
an orb, all gold, on a chief sable a lion passant
between a mitre and a crozier erect, all gold. (fn. 616)
Manorial government.
Malmesbury abbey
claimed to be free of shire and hundred courts
and to have other liberties in estates including
Cowfold by a charter of 1065, but the relevant
part of the charter, if not the whole, is almost certainly spurious. (fn. 617) The abbey nevertheless held
those liberties in the mid 13th century for all its
estates in Malmesbury parish. (fn. 618)
Records of views of frankpledge and other courts
held for Malmesbury manor survive for several
periods from the mid 16th century. From the mid
18th century the courts were described as courts
leet and courts baron for the manor of Malmesbury
and Westport. In the 1560s, in the late 1640s, and
between 1750 and 1780 courts were usually held
in spring and autumn each year. (fn. 619) Military activity
prevented courts from being held in the early
1640s. (fn. 620) Many functions of town government were
apparently performed in Malmesbury by the
manor courts rather than or in addition to the borough courts. At the view held in 1561 bakers,
butchers, and innkeepers were presented for
breaches of the assize, and fines were imposed on
those who had neglected to repair King's Wall;
whether the street of that name or part of the town
wall needed repair is not clear. In the later 18th
century the jurors at the court leet presented
defaulters from the court, roads in need of repair,
and rubbish and pigsties in Cross Hayes and High
Street. In 1752 they reported the lack of a ducking
stool. Constables were appointed from the 1750s.
A court leet was held once a year from the 1780s;
none was held after 1806. In 1561 offences by victuallers were also presented at the court baron.
Later the court baron, at which the homage presented, dealt mainly with the tenure of copyhold
premises in the town. From c. 1780 until 1914
courts were held irregularly, apparently at need. (fn. 621)

The borough seal, 1615
Courts and views held for Burton Hill manor
were recorded with those for Rodbourne manor
under the rubric of Cowfold manor with Rodbourne and Burton Hill for the years 1559, 1563–4,
1569, and 1571–3. The courts and views were held
in spring and autumn yearly, probably at a house
in Cole park. Between 1559 and 1564 and in 1573
views were held for Burton Hill at which a tithingman presented and a jury affirmed his presentments. Between 1569 and 1572 views were held
jointly for Burton Hill and Rodbourne; there was
a single jury but a tithingman from each presented.
Burton Hill business included stray animals and
overcharging by millers and a butcher. Courts
baron for Burton Hill were held separately. The
homage presented defaulters from the court,
deaths of copyholders, and tenements in need of
repair. The use of common pastures was regulated
and, at the autumn court, a tithingman and a reeve
were appointed. (fn. 622)
Courts leet and courts baron for Whitchurch
and Milbourne manor are recorded for the years
1763–1816. The courts were usually held annually
in autumn; additional courts were held to admit
copyholders. At the autumn court two haywards,
one each for Milbourne common and Whitchurch
marsh, were appointed. Orders were made for
footpaths to be repaired and, in 1766, a new pound
to be built; encroachments on waste ground were
presented. (fn. 623)
Parish government.
In 1632 those who lived
in Cole park and West park were ordered to contribute to poor relief in the parish, (fn. 624) which was
presumably administered without differentiating
the town and the outlying parts. In 1636 it was
reported that 60 houses within the precinct of the
former abbey contained 47 persons needing relief;
the implication was that the precinct was being
treated as extraparochial but the parish should provide relief. Seven houses within the precinct were
then in Westport parish. (fn. 625) Probably by 1760, however, and certainly by 1776 the Abbey had become
a separate parish relieving its own poor. (fn. 626)
In 1642 £30 a week for six weeks was ordered
to be collected from Malmesbury and parishes
within 5 miles of it to relieve its poor, then affected
by plague. Only £68 was collected and in 1646
the constables, churchwardens, and overseers
were still seeking compensation for money spent
during the epidemic. (fn. 627)
In the later 18th century the Malmesbury vestry
set a rate and delegated its collection and the distribution of relief to 6 overseers, 2 for the town and
1 each for Burton Hill, Corston, Rodbourne, and
Milbourne (presumably with Whitchurch). In
1779 John Chamberlain was appointed by the
vestry to administer poor relief throughout the parish. From 1780, however, the six overseers again
received and made payments. Relief in the parish,
excluding Corston and Rodbourne, cost c. £150
in 1760–1. It was given regularly at a cost of £82
to 26 people; 22 apparently lived in the borough
and 2 each in Milbourne and Burton Hill tithings.
Occasional relief and other expenses cost £70; payments were made for clothing, bedding, rents, and
funerals. In 1770–1 regular relief was given to 28
in the borough, 1 in Milbourne, and 3 in Burton
Hill; in 1779–80 it was given to c. 40 in the borough, 6 in Milbourne, and 1 in Burton Hill. (fn. 628) In
1802–3 in Malmesbury parish, including Corston
and Rodbourne, regular relief was given to 129
adults, some of whom were in the workhouse, and
168 children; 52 inhabitants and 107 people from
outside the parish received occasional payments.
The total cost was £972. During the next decade
fewer people were relieved. In 1815 regular relief
was given to 111 and occasional relief to 59. Costs,
however, rose; £1,102 was spent on the poor in
1815. (fn. 629) A peak was reached in 1818 when £1,928
was spent. Thereafter expenditure fell until 1824,
when £1,086 was spent, and usually remained
between £1,000 and £1,200 until 1835 (fn. 630) when Malmesbury poor-law union was formed. (fn. 631)
In the later 18th century the east end of St.
Paul's church housed some of the poor. (fn. 632) There
was a workhouse in 1781, (fn. 633) which in 1803 had 46
inmates. (fn. 634) It was probably the building in Holloway held in 1805 by the churchwardens and overseers on a 21-year lease, (fn. 635) and may previously have
been part of Jenner's almshouses. (fn. 636) In 1814 there
were 23 inmates. (fn. 637) In 1825 a new poorhouse for
the parish was built on the site of part of Jenner's
almshouses at the junction of Oxford Street and
Holloway; in 1834 the remaining almshouses also
housed poor families placed there by the parish. (fn. 638)
Such use presumably ceased when the union workhouse on the outskirts of the town in Brokenborough parish was opened in 1838. (fn. 639)
Poor relief in the Abbey parish cost £15 in
1775–6 and £30 in 1802–3, when four adults and
four children were regularly relieved. Expenditure
had risen to £50 by 1814, when seven people
received regular relief. There is no record of occasional relief being given in the parish. (fn. 640) Between
1815 and 1835 the cost of poor relief was usually
£35–£45; it was a little higher in 1816, 1820, and
1827–8, and lower in 1822–4. (fn. 641) The Abbey parish
became part of Malmesbury poor-law union in
1835. (fn. 642)
Public Services.
Constables of Malmesbury
were first recorded in the 1640s; it is not clear
by whom they were appointed. In 1642 two constables complained to the justices at quarter sessions of the additional expense they had incurred
during the plague of that year and in watching
and warding, providing and mending arms, and
attending and transporting prisoners. In 1644 a
constable sought release from the office, in which
he had served for three years apparently because
manor courts had not been held. In 1646 a similar
request was made by both constables, who claimed
to have suffered great loss, particularly through
plunder and imprisonment by royalist troops. (fn. 643)
Between 1729 and 1741 two constables each for
Malmesbury and Westport were appointed at the
borough sessions, and from 1753 two constables
for Malmesbury, two for Westport, and one for
the Abbey parish at the manor court. Two sidesmen for Malmesbury and two for Westport were
also sworn at the manor courts from 1753. (fn. 644)
From 1840 Malmesbury parish outside the borough was policed by the county constabulary. (fn. 645)
The borough force was separate, presumably from
c. 1840, until in 1887 it became part of the county
constabulary. (fn. 646) A police station in the town belong
ing to the county police in 1844 (fn. 647) was replaced
in 1854 by a new building in Burnham Road. (fn. 648)
A new station in Burton Hill was built c. 1955. (fn. 649)
The abbot of Malmesbury had a prison in the
12th and 13th centuries. (fn. 650) Prisoners were sent from
the hundred courts to a gaol in Malmesbury in
1613, (fn. 651) and in 1682 the justices at quarter sessions
ordered that a gaol be built there. (fn. 652) In 1831 a building east of the abbey gateway was used as the town
prison. (fn. 653)
A fire brigade, formed in 1851, had a station
in 1866, perhaps that in Ingram Street in use c.
1894. From 1907 to c. 1948 the brigade was based
at the town hall. It was moved to a station in
Gloucester Road c. 1948 and a new station was
opened there in 1969. (fn. 654)
In 1798 an Act for paving the footways and for
cleaning and lighting the streets of the borough (fn. 655)
established a body of improvement commis
sioners, and in 1872 the town became an urban
sanitary district under the authority of the same
body. (fn. 656) Its duties apparently passed to the borough
council in 1886. (fn. 657)
In 1835 it was proposed to supply gas to the
town; a gasworks north of St. John's bridge may
have been built then (fn. 658) and was standing in 1848. (fn. 659)
The Malmesbury Gas & Coke Co. was vested in
the South Western Gas Board in 1949. (fn. 660) Electricity
was supplied to the town by the Western Electricity Distributing Corporation in 1923. (fn. 661) The
Malmesbury Water Works Co. Ltd. built a pumping house in Holloway in or soon after 1864 and
a water tower south-east of Abbey House probably
at the same date. The waterworks was transferred
to the borough in 1900. (fn. 662) Another water tower,
to serve Malmesbury rural district and the borough, was built north of Whychurch Farm
between 1947 and 1953 (fn. 663) and was replaced by a
new tower and pumping station in 1985. (fn. 664) In 1904
and 1920 proceedings were instituted by Wiltshire
county council against the borough council to prevent the discharge of sewage into the Avon. (fn. 665) A
sewage works was built north of Cowbridge Farm
c. 1962. (fn. 666)
A cemetery and a mortuary chapel for Malmesbury and Westport parishes were opened on 1 ha.
west of the Tetbury road in Westport in 1884. (fn. 667)
A cottage hospital north of the market cross was
opened in 1889 and rebuilt in 1897. It was transferred to the Manor House, Burton Hill, in 1925; (fn. 668)
that house, much extended, was still used as a
hospital in 1988. An isolation hospital was opened
on a site then in Brokenborough parish c. 1890.
It was a wooden building with 6 beds in 2 wards,
but without cooking apparatus, bath-house, or
bath. The hospital was closed in 1933. (fn. 669)
In 1851 a mechanics' institute in Malmesbury
had 92 members and a library of 900 books. (fn. 670) A
library in the town was open on two evenings a
week in 1926, and in 1935 was in the town hall.
Thereafter it was moved several times; from 1972
it occupied part of the former Malmesbury Church
of England school in Cross Hayes. (fn. 671) In 1931 the
Athelstan Museum was opened in the town hall. (fn. 672)
It was moved to a building in Gloucester Road
c. 1970 (fn. 673) but from 1979 was again in the town
hall. (fn. 674)
Between 1931 and 1956 Malmesbury borough
council built most of the new houses west of the
town and the houses and prefabricated bungalows
in Cowbridge Crescent. The council also built the
swimming pool in Old Alexander Road opened
in 1961. The Parklands estate was built for
Malmesbury rural district council, (fn. 675) and North
Wiltshire district council built the houses and maisonettes at Burton Hill. (fn. 676) In 1971 Wiltshire county
council bought Burnham House as a residential
home for the elderly, and later built the additional
accommodation in its grounds. (fn. 677)
Parliamentary Representation.
Malmesbury returned burgesses to the parliament
of 1275 and to a total of 74 parliaments before
1449; only New Salisbury, Wilton, and Marlborough of the boroughs in Wiltshire were more frequently represented. Until 1832 the borough
usually had two M.P.s. The earliest surviving
indentures are between the sheriff and the alderman and burgesses; in 1455 the borough's representatives were selected by the alderman and at
least 13 burgesses. (fn. 678) The franchise had probably
been restricted to the alderman and 12 other burgesses, later called the capital burgesses, by the
late 16th century. The first record of an election
by those 13 dates from 1640. (fn. 679) Conflicts over
King's Heath and borough government in the
early 17th century may have derived in part from
attempts to extend the franchise, (fn. 680) but no complaint about electoral rights was recorded.
In the 15th century over half the borough's
M.P.s whose names are known were residents of
Malmesbury. In the mid 16th century leading
clothiers were among the M.P.s. William Stumpe
(d. 1552) sat in the parliaments of 1529 and
1547–52, and Matthew King in those of 1553–5
and 1558. (fn. 681) Sir James Stumpe was returned in
1555. A controlling interest in the borough's parliamentary elections apparently passed to Sir
James's son-in-law Sir Henry Knyvett, who himself represented Malmesbury four times in the later
16th century, and later to Knyvett's son-in-law
Thomas Howard, earl of Suffolk. (fn. 682)
For much of the 17th century at least one and
sometimes both of Malmesbury's M.P.s were
drawn from families with local interests: members
of the Moody, Poole, Hungerford, Lee, Washington, and Estcourt families represented the borough. (fn. 683) Sir John Danvers, elected in place of
Anthony Hungerford in 1645, was a signatory to
Charles I's death warrant. (fn. 684) Elections were occasionally influenced by the earls of Berkshire,
resident at Charlton Park, but more usually by
members of the Danvers family and their heirs
as lords of Malmesbury manor or by the holders
of the post of high steward created by the borough
charter of 1635. The high steward's influence presumably derived from his duty under the charter
to advise the alderman and burgesses on all business concerning the borough. The post was held
by members of the Estcourt family of Sherston
Pinkney, in Sherston, between 1641 and 1659 and
between 1671 and 1677. (fn. 685) Later high stewards
were usually men of wider influence, often peers. (fn. 686)
A letter of 1684 refers to recent elections in
Malmesbury as popular, but returns of that year
do not indicate any increase in the number of electors. In 1689 Thomas Wharton, later marquess of
Wharton and then lord of Malmesbury manor,
took advantage of uncertainty over the borough
charter to extend the franchise to assistant burgesses, landholders, and commoners; a total of 172
voted in the election of that year. (fn. 687) The old franchise was presumably restored in 1690 with the
1635 constitution of the corporation, and the franchise was not defined in the new charter of 1696.
In the 1720s and 1730s a standard tariff, by which
each of the 13 voters received £100 for a general
election and £20 for the re-election of a member
who had taken office, secured uncontested elections. In the mid 18th century Henry Fox (cr.
Baron Holland 1763) and Henry Howard, earl of
Suffolk and of Berkshire (d. 1779), competed for
control of the borough. Fox, high steward from
1751 to 1760, proposed a compromise by which
they shared both the representation and the electoral costs, paying each capital burgess a total of
£30 a year and jointly providing for them two feasts
each year. (fn. 688)
Lord Suffolk and his supporter Edmund Wilkins, a Malmesbury apothecary, were successively
high steward 1762–9. Wilkins transferred his support to Fox and from 1769 to 1775 served as deputy
high steward to Charles James Fox, who was M.P.
for Malmesbury 1774–80. Wilkins was again high
steward from 1775 to 1806. He controlled parliamentary elections by refining the system of annual
pensions and reinforcing it by a bond of £500
entered by each capital burgess. Until 1789 he sold
the borough at each election to the highest bidder;
later he consistently supported government candidates. He was succeeded in control of the borough
by Edmund Estcourt, who raised the pension to
£50 yearly. Control of the borough's two seats was
sold at least twice before 1832. The narrow franchise and the corruption and illiteracy of the burgesses were frequently attacked in the late 18th
century and early 19th, and in 1796, 1802, 1806,
and 1807 provided the grounds for petitions for
elections to be overturned. The borough lost one
seat in 1832, (fn. 689) and the remaining seat in 1884,
when it was merged in the Chippenham division
of the county. (fn. 690)
Churches.
In 1191 Malmesbury abbey was
granted the right to appropriate the parish church,
St. Paul's church 'in atrio monasterii', to endow
lights in the abbey church. (fn. 691) By the mid 13th century a vicarage had been ordained. (fn. 692) Between 1650
and 1658 the vicarage was united with Westport
vicarage (fn. 693) but the benefices were separated after
1660. (fn. 694) The vicarages and parishes were united
under the name Malmesbury with Westport St.
Mary in 1946, and in 1984 the new benefice and
parish of Brokenborough was added. (fn. 695) Chapels at
Corston and Rodbourne were dependent on St.
Paul's church from the 14th century or earlier until
1881. (fn. 696)
The abbot of Malmesbury was patron of the
vicarage presumably from its ordination and certainly from 1301. He presented at most vacancies
until the Dissolution. The bishop of Salisbury may
have collated a vicar in 1332, and in 1387 a vicar,
who obtained the living by exchange, was apparently instituted without the abbot's consent. After
the Dissolution the Crown presented (fn. 697) until 1866
when the advowson was sold to S. B. Brooke. (fn. 698)
It passed with his Cowbridge estate to the Revd.
Charles Kemble and to Charlotte Kemble (fn. 699) (d.
1890), who devised the advowson to her daughter
Charlotte Kemble. (fn. 700) By 1907 the advowson had
passed to the Church Trust Fund, (fn. 701) the patron
of Malmesbury with Westport and Brokenborough
in 1987. (fn. 702)
After a pension of £5 was paid to Malmesbury
abbey the vicarage, worth £4 6s. 8d., was one of
the poorer livings in Malmesbury deanery in
1291; (fn. 703) probably excluding a pension of £4 to the
abbey, it was valued at £8 in 1535, close to the
average for the deanery. (fn. 704) About 1830 the vicar's
net annual income was £265, average for a Wiltshire living. (fn. 705)
Tithes, apart from those of grain and hay, were
due to the vicar from the whole parish except some
demesne of Malmesbury abbey. In the mid 13th
century offerings and tithes owned by St. John's
hospital were replaced by 40d. and ½ lb. wax a
year. (fn. 706) In 1839 a total of 823 a., mostly what had
been Cole park and West park, was tithe free;
moduses totalling 12s. were paid in place of vicarial
tithes from a further 185 a., said to be former
demesne of the abbey. The vicar's tithes were then
valued at £430 and commuted. (fn. 707)
The vicar had a house, perhaps in King's Wall,
c. 1300; (fn. 708) it is not known whether it was part of
the glebe. In 1412 Edmund Dauntsey and John
Thornbury endowed the vicarage with a house and
5 a. (fn. 709) In 1671 the glebe comprised 3½ a., a cottage,
and a house. (fn. 710) The house, of one bay in 1704, (fn. 711)
stood in Gloucester Street opposite St. Paul's
church. In the earlier 19th century it was used
as a shop and vicars lived in lodgings. (fn. 712) From c.
1882 incumbents lived in a house, then newly built
beside the Swindon road, belonging to Westport
vicarage. (fn. 713) A new vicarage house was built in Holloway, and that beside the Swindon road was sold,
in 1969. (fn. 714)
Its name suggests that Whitchurch may have
been the site of an early chapel. Such a chapel
may have invoked St. James in 1252, when
Malmesbury abbey was granted a St. James's fair
on its land at Whitchurch. (fn. 715) In 1535 offerings made
from or at Whitchurch to an image of St. James
were taken by the abbey. (fn. 716) Alms were distributed
in a chapel at Whitchurch by the abbey or by the
lessee of its Whitchurch estate at mass on the eve
and feast of St. James in the early 16th century. (fn. 717)
After the Dissolution presumably no service was
held in the chapel, which from the 1560s or earlier
passed with Whitchurch manor. (fn. 718) By 1670 it had
been incorporated in Whychurch Farm. (fn. 719) In 1268
Nicholas of Malmesbury gave land at Fowlswick
in Chippenham for a chaplain to say masses for
his parents in the chapel of 'la Charnere' in
Malmesbury. (fn. 720) No other reference to the chapel
has been found. All Saints' chapel stood in High
Street, perhaps on the eastern side, in the late 13th
century and in 1545. (fn. 721) In 1544 the Crown granted
a house called 'St. White's hermitage' at Burton
Hill; (fn. 722) what, if any, ecclesiastical purpose the hermitage had before the Dissolution is not clear. In
1268 William Porter gave a rent of 1s. a year for
a light in St. Paul's church. (fn. 723) A chantry was
endowed at the altar of St. Mary in the church
probably before 1300; (fn. 724) in 1388 the Crown presented a chantrist. (fn. 725) At the chantry's dissolution
in 1548 its priest had an income of £6 11s. from
Malmesbury and Westport and was described as
a very honest poor man. (fn. 726)
Some parishioners apparently heard mass in the
chapel of St. John's hospital until the mid 13th
century, when attendance there was forbidden to
all but those wearing the habit of the hospital. (fn. 727)
In 1378 the vicar John Swan travelled to Rome
for the sake of his conscience; (fn. 728) he resigned the
living in that or the following year. (fn. 729) William Sherwood held the vicarage and a rectory in Oxford,
and in 1477 was dispensed to hold a third living. (fn. 730)
Richard Turner, vicar from 1535, in 1539 condemned the dissolution of the monasteries; (fn. 731) he
seems to have suffered no penalty but had resigned
the living by 1544. (fn. 732)
In the early 16th century parishioners may have
attended services in the abbey church and St.
Paul's fell into disrepair. In 1541 the nave of the
church of the dissolved abbey was licensed as the
parish church because St. Paul's had 'fallen even
unto the ground'. (fn. 733) The former abbey church was
then in the king's hand and in the keeping of William Stumpe. (fn. 734) In 1542 John Leland reported that
the townsmen, among whom Stumpe was the chief
contributor, had bought the church from the
king. (fn. 735) Stumpe was probably then only the lessee
of the site of the abbey; in 1544 he was granted
the site by the Crown (fn. 736) and may then have given
or sold the church to the parish.
There were said to be 860 communicants in
Malmesbury and Westport parishes in 1548, and
the Crown was then petitioned for assistant clergy
to replace chantry priests who had formerly helped
incumbents in both parishes. (fn. 737) John ApRice, vicar
of Malmesbury from 1544 until c. 1564, had two
other benefices and in 1556 no licence for
plurality. (fn. 738) In 1551 the church had no copy of
Erasmus's Paraphrases or Book of Homilies. (fn. 739)
ApRice's successor John Skinner was deprived in
1564 or 1565, (fn. 740) for what reason is not known. In
1583 the vicar, James Steele, was alleged to have
leased the vicarage and to have left the town. (fn. 741)
In 1585, when he may still have been absent, the
churchwardens complained that services were not
held at the proper times and that there was no
curate. (fn. 742)
In 1651 the alderman and burgesses granted to
Robert Harpur, the vicar, rights of pasture on
King's Heath as a mark of esteem. (fn. 743) In 1661 the
bishop of Salisbury mentioned Malmesbury
among places, whose incumbents were 'busy, turbulent' men, which he was unable to bring to good
order; Simon Gawen was expelled from the vicarage in 1662. (fn. 744) Between 1643 and 1686 there were
several cases of witchcraft in the town, (fn. 745) and
Aubrey reported that seven or eight witches from
Malmesbury were hanged in the 1670s. (fn. 746)
Vicars of Malmesbury received 20s. a year from
each of three annual sermon charities, founded by
Michael Wickes, Elizabeth Hodges, and Robert
Cullerne in 1695, c. 1723, and in 1758 respectively.
No payment was received from Hodges's charity
in or after the late 19th century, (fn. 747) but payments
from Wickes's and Cullerne's were still made in
the late 20th. (fn. 748)
John Copson, vicar 1749 to c. 1786, was from
1765 also vicar of Kemble (now Glos.). (fn. 749) In 1783
he lived at Kemble and a curate, who was also
curate of Ashley (now Glos.), served Malmesbury,
including Corston and Rodbourne chapels. Services were then held at Malmesbury on Sunday
afternoons and additionally at festivals and in
Lent. Communion was celebrated four times a
year and there were usually c. 50 communicants. (fn. 750)
From 1879 until the benefices were united
Malmesbury and Westport vicarages were held in
plurality. (fn. 751)
ST. PAUL'S church was so called in 1191. (fn. 752) In
1542 all that remained of it was the west tower,
then used as a house, and part of the east end,
used as a town hall. (fn. 753) Reports in 1556 and 1585
that a church in Malmesbury needed repair (fn. 754) may
refer to St. Paul's and, if they did, indicate some
hope of its restoration as the parish church. Part
of it may have continued in ecclesiastical use until
the 1630s; there were said to have been marriages
and sermons at St. Paul's until then. (fn. 755) The east
end was probably used for meetings of the corporation until the 18th century, (fn. 756) and in the late 18th
century was apparently a poorhouse. (fn. 757) When it was
demolished in 1852 it was said to have long been
used as a timber warehouse. (fn. 758) The tower was
standing in 1988 and then as earlier housed bells
rung for services in the abbey church. (fn. 759) It was
built in the 14th century, of limestone rubble with
ashlar dressings, and has three stages.

The vicarage house in 1790
Before the Dissolution the abbey church (fn. 760) was
apparently dedicated to St. Mary and St. Aidhelm. (fn. 761) In the early 20th century an additional
or alternative dedication was to ST. PETER AND
ST. PAUL. (fn. 762) In 1988 all four saints were invoked. (fn. 763)
Nothing survives of the churches and other buildings of the abbey which stood before the 12th century. (fn. 764) Parts of the crossing, transepts, and nave (fn. 765)
of the 12th-century church survive and footings
found by excavation indicate a semicircular ambulatory at the east end. The surviving parts suggest
that the church had arcades, a triforium, a clerestory, and a timber roof, and that the whole was
built to one design in the later 12th century. The
arcades were of nine bays and the transepts each
of three bays; chapels probably extended eastwards from the outer bay of each transept. (fn. 766) The
south doorway and porch were richly decorated
with stone sculptures representing the apostles and
scenes from the Old and New Testaments. (fn. 767) The
cloister was to the north and was probably surrounded by other buildings although only one
wall, to the east and presumably part of the chapter
house, has been traced. Because the ground falls
steeply north of the cloister, the dormitory and
its undercroft seem likely to have run east—west.
The vaulted 13th-century undercroft incorporated
in Abbey House (fn. 768) may have been at the end of
or beside the dormitory range. Another probably
13th-century range, incorporated in the Old Bell
hotel west of the church, (fn. 769) may have been part of
a building which, according to the usual plan of
a monastery, consisted of the inner gatehouse and
the abbot's lodging. By the 16th century, however,
the abbot's lodging was apparently south-east of
the church. Late 13th-century improvements and
additions included alterations to the chapter house
and the building of a new infirmary; (fn. 770) neither building survives. In the early 14th century the nave
and transepts were vaulted and the clerestories
altered and, at the west end, rebuilt. Flying buttresses were added to the nave to support the vault,
the parapets of the nave and aisles were reconstructed, and the porch walls were made thicker,
perhaps to support a tower. A first-floor room,
but no tower, was built over the porch. A tower
was built over the two western bays of the nave
c. 1400. A central tower, perhaps built in the 12th
century, was apparently heightened and topped
with a tall spire of wood and lead in the later Middle Ages. It fell probably in the early 16th century. (fn. 771) The west tower was standing in 1660 but
fell soon afterwards, destroying the south-west
corner of the nave. (fn. 772) When the nave became the
parish church a wall was built between it and the
crossing. After the west tower fell a wall was built
across the nave three bays from the west end. That
wall had a window with wooden tracery which in
1823 was replaced by one in stone made to designs
by H. E. Goodridge. A plaster vault, presumably
imitating the surviving 14th-century vaulting, was
then built over the western bays of the nave and
a gallery and an organ were built against the west
wall. (fn. 773) Major alterations since then include the
extension of the south aisle and clerestory in
1900, (fn. 774) the vaulting of the porch in 1905, (fn. 775) and
the restoration of the upper room in 1912. (fn. 776)
Between 1926 and 1928 the plaster part of the nave
vault was renewed in stone and the gallery was
removed. (fn. 777)
A chalice valued at 40s. was stolen from St.
Paul's church in 1383 or 1384; (fn. 778) no other record
survives of plate used in that church. Chalices of
1575 and 1631, the latter given in 1632, and a
paten of 1702 belonged to the parish c. 1890. (fn. 779)
That plate, a chalice of 1703, and other plate
mainly of the late 19th century and the 20th, some
from Westport church, belonged to the parish in
1988. (fn. 780)
In 1987 eight bells hung in the tower of St.
Paul's. The oldest was one cast in Bristol c. 1500;
one of 1610 was cast by a member of the Purdue
family. A bell of 1640, perhaps cast by A. Hughes,
and one of 1703 by William Cor were recast by
Mears & Stainbank in 1910, and a bell of 1739
was recast in 1896 by Llewellins & James. Three
new bells were cast in 1951 by Gillett & Johnston. (fn. 781)
Registers of baptisms, marriages, and burials
survive from 1591. (fn. 782)
Roman Catholicism.
In 1865 a site in
Cross Hayes was bought for a Roman Catholic
church, (fn. 783) which was in the charge of Missionaries
of St. Francis de Sales from 1867. (fn. 784) By 1876 that
church had been replaced by a new stone building
in a plain 14th-century style. (fn. 785) The former church
was used as a school from 1876 or earlier until
c. 1932. (fn. 786) By will proved 1923 C. J. Pollen gave
the income from an invested sum, then £22 yearly,
for the use of a Roman Catholic priest in Malmesbury. (fn. 787)
Protestant Nonconformity.
Simon
Gawen, ejected from Malmesbury vicarage in
1662, preached in the town until his death in
1672. (fn. 788) Other dissenting ministers in the town in
the late 17th century included Henry Chandler,
a Presbyterian recorded there in 1687, (fn. 789) and
Samuel Clifford, formerly rector of East Knoyle,
who preached in Malmesbury between 1695 and
1699. (fn. 790) Until the late 18th century nonconformity
in the town was concentrated in the Westport part.
In 1676 there were 5 nonconformists in Malmesbury, 18 in Westport; (fn. 791) in 1715 a Presbyterian
minister in Westport was said to serve a congregation of 160; (fn. 792) and in 1783 the curate of Malmesbury reported that there were many dissenters of
various denominations in the parish, but that their
teachers lived elsewhere, (fn. 793) presumably in Westport.
An Anabaptist parishioner of Malmesbury
refused to allow his child to be baptized in 1660 (fn. 794)
and in 1672 a house in Malmesbury may have been
licensed for Baptist meetings. (fn. 795) A chapel was built
in Westport parish, in Abbey Row on the boundary
with Malmesbury parish, in or before 1695 and
another built on the same site for Strict Baptists
in 1802 was open in 1987. (fn. 796)
Several Quaker families lived in Burton Hill
between 1669 and 1750. (fn. 797) A house in Malmesbury
parish, probably in Burton Hill, was certified in
1695 for Quaker meetings. (fn. 798) A Quaker Sunday
school was opened in Malmesbury in 1827, and
in 1833 had 50 pupils, (fn. 799) but there is no record
of a meeting in the town.
Between 1739 and 1741 John Wesley preached
three or four times in Malmesbury. (fn. 800) John Davis
(d. 1796), chaplain of Lea and Cleverton and curate of Garsdon, held evangelical services in a cottage in the town (fn. 801) and some of his congregation
may have become Methodists c. 1800. (fn. 802) In 1814
and 1825 Primitive Methodists met in the former
Ebenezer chapel in Silver Street, (fn. 803) but they had
no permanent church in the town until 1856 when
a chapel was built in Bristol Street in Westport
parish. (fn. 804) A chapel in the Triangle in Westport was
open in 1987. Wesleyan Methodist services were
held in the town hall from 1882 to 1886, when
a chapel was opened in Cross Hayes. (fn. 805) The chapel
had been closed by 1919. (fn. 806)
In 1745 John Cennick, a follower of George
Whitefield, invited the Moravian Brethren to take
charge of congregations in north Wiltshire founded
by his preaching, including one in Malmesbury. (fn. 807)
A Moravian church may have been in the town
since 1742. (fn. 808) In 1770 a chapel was built near the
junction of Oxford Street and Cross Hayes Lane.
On Census Sunday in 1851 morning service was
attended by 96 adults and 51 children; 122 adults
attended evening service and a school was held
in the afternoon. (fn. 809) The chapel was open in 1987.
Registers of births and baptisms for the years
1827–40 and of burials 1826–40 survive. (fn. 810)
A cottage in Malmesbury certified in 1792 for
Independent meetings (fn. 811) may have been used for
John Davis's evangelical services. (fn. 812) Before 1800
two cottages in Silver Street were converted for
use as the Ebenezer chapel by all or part of his
congregation. In 1812 the congregation was united
with that of Westport Congregational church, formerly the Presbyterian or Independent chapel,
and the Ebenezer chapel was sold soon afterwards.
A new meeting house was opened in Silver Street
as a branch of the Westport church in 1836, and
from 1841 was a separate church. The building
was enlarged or rebuilt in 1848. On Census Sunday
in 1851 the three services in the chapel, again called
the Ebenezer chapel, were each attended by a congregation of between 150 and 200; attendance was
said to be lower than usual. (fn. 813) In 1914, because
there was no settled minister, it was proposed to
reunite the chapel with Westport Congregational
church; the proposal was resisted by the Silver
Street deacons, (fn. 814) apparently successfully. The
chapel had been closed by 1974. (fn. 815)
Other meeting houses in Malmesbury were certified in 1825 and 1827, and in 1842 a hall was
certified. (fn. 816) From 1948 meetings of an Assemblies
of God Pentecostal church were held in the town;
the church occupied a building in Silver Street
from 1967 and was open in 1987. (fn. 817)
Education.
A school may have been opened
in the former hospital of St. John after the building
was acquired by Malmesbury corporation in
1580. (fn. 818) The agreement of 1609 concerning the borough's government required that, of £20 paid
annually by the alderman and burgesses for their
inclosures on King's Heath, £10 should be paid
to a schoolmaster. (fn. 819) From 1629 or earlier the payment was in the form of a rent charge on some
of the inclosures. (fn. 820) The payment was confirmed
by the borough charter of 1696. In 1695 Michael
Wickes endowed the schoolmaster with an
additional £10 a year from land in Great Somerford. (fn. 821) The school was apparently held in the part
of the former hospital also used as a court room. (fn. 822)
Instruction was free; in 1714 a master was dismissed for leaving the town and appointing a
deputy who demanded fees. (fn. 823) There were 25
pupils in 1818, (fn. 824) and in 1858, when 50 pupils
attended in wet weather and 20 in fine, the school
was described by its master as little better than
a refuge on a wet day. (fn. 825) In the late 19th century
the school was attended only by sons of members
of the corporation or freemen of Malmesbury. It
was closed in 1890 and the warden and freemen
of Malmesbury gave the rent charge to the
National school provided that it accepted 20 sons
of freemen. Payment of the rent charge to the
school ceased on introduction of free elementary
education in 1891. (fn. 826) Under a Scheme of 1910 the
rent charge provided exhibitions at secondary
schools or technical institutions for boys and girls
resident in Malmesbury, preferably the children
of freemen. (fn. 827) After 1890 occasional payments were
made from Wickes's charity to schools in the
town. (fn. 828)
In 1634 Robert Arch gave 11 a., mostly in Lea
and Cleverton parish, for the general good of
Malmesbury borough. (fn. 829) In 1818 the income of £55
was used for a school attended by c. 150 pupils. (fn. 830)
By 1834 the income had fallen to £33. It then paid
for a free school for 45 girls held in a room over
the porch of the abbey church; lace making was
among the subjects taught. (fn. 831) The school was open
in 1873 (fn. 832) but apparently closed soon afterwards.
In 1908 the endowment was used for Malmesbury
and Westport church schools, (fn. 833) and in 1911 provided scholarships for pupils from the town attending secondary schools. (fn. 834)
By will dated 1723 Elizabeth Hodges gave £30
yearly to schools in Malmesbury and other
bequests to schools in nearby parishes. The provisions of the will were executed in 1730 when
a Chancery decree ordered the foundation of a
school for 15 boys. (fn. 835) The school's income and the
number of its pupils were unchanged in 1846. (fn. 836)
In 1869 the school was amalgamated with Westport Church of England school. (fn. 837) A Scheme of
1915 provided that the endowment should promote the education of children in the town by the
award of exhibitions or other means. The annual
income was between £10 and £15 in the 1960s. (fn. 838)
In 1987 a share of the £67.50 given by the charity
was received by schools in Malmesbury. (fn. 839)
A school for Malmesbury and Westport parishes
was built in or before 1851 beside Sherston Road
on a site then said to be in Westport parish, (fn. 840) but
probably that in a detached part of Bremilham
parish on which additional buildings, including
a teacher's house, were erected in 1855–7. In 1857
it was attended by 63 boys and 34 girls. (fn. 841) From
1859 Westport Church of England school was a
National school for boys only, (fn. 842) and in 1872 there
were 247 pupils. (fn. 843) Another Church of England
school for Malmesbury parish, built in 1857 in
Cross Hayes, was for girls and infants. (fn. 844) In 1858
it had 220 pupils. (fn. 845) Average attendance at the two
schools totalled 471 in 1909–10, 301 in 1921–2. (fn. 846)
Both were closed in 1964 when a new primary
school was opened in the old grammar school in
Tetbury Hill. (fn. 847) A new school was built on the
Tetbury Hill site in 1983; in 1988 it had 290 pupils
on roll. (fn. 848)
A secondary school was opened in the town hall
in 1896. It moved to new buildings on the west
side of Tetbury Hill in 1903. (fn. 849) As Malmesbury
grammar school it was attended by c. 240 in 1948. (fn. 850)
A new school was built 750 m. north of it in 1964.
A secondary modern school was built north of
Sherston Road in Brokenborough parish in 1954; (fn. 851)
it then had 450 pupils. The buildings of that
school, the grammar school, and Westport Church
of England school were used by a comprehensive
school known as Malmesbury school from 1971;
in 1988 it had 809 pupils on roll. (fn. 852)
The Roman Catholic school, built in Cross
Hayes in 1869, (fn. 853) using the former church by
1876, (fn. 854) run by Sisters of St. Joseph of Annecy
from 1884, (fn. 855) was known as St. Joseph's school.
In 1892 average attendance was 60; (fn. 856) numbers
changed little before 1922. (fn. 857) A new school was
built in Holloway in 1932–3; it had c. 90 pupils
in 1935–6. (fn. 858) In 1988 there were 98 children on
roll from Malmesbury, Brinkworth, Hullavington,
Crudwell, and Sherston. (fn. 859)
Other schools in the town included one kept
by J. M. Moffatt (d. 1802), minister of Westport
Presbyterian chapel, (fn. 860) and one held by the three
daughters of Thomas Milsome in 1806. (fn. 861) In 1830
there were five and in 1842 seven schools in
addition to the endowed schools in the town; most
were probably in Westport parish. They included
two ladies' boarding schools in 1830; in 1842 one
was in Burton Hill. (fn. 862) Burton Hill House was used
as a private school during the Second World War.
Since 1945 it has been a residential school for
physically handicapped children. In 1987 there
were 32 pupils. (fn. 863)
Charities for the Poor.
From 1584 the
alderman and burgesses were using the former hospital of St. John as an almshouse and possibly a
school, (fn. 864) and from 1609 they gave £10 of the £20
paid for their inclosures on King's Heath to maintain five inmates of it; from 1629 or earlier the
£10 was a rent charge on particular inclosures, (fn. 865)
and in 1696 its payment was confirmed by the
borough charter. From 1695 the almshouse also
received £10 a year from Michael Wickes's charity.
In the early 20th century it comprised three cottages, providing accommodation for six widows
of freemen of Malmesbury. (fn. 866) Between 1927 and
1967 it was rarely full and was sometimes empty.
It was converted to house three people and filled
in 1967. (fn. 867)
In 1612 Thomas Cox gave the income from 40s.
to be distributed to the poor of Malmesbury on
Good Friday annually. (fn. 868) Nothing more is known
of the bequest. In 1641 Robert Jenner built almshouses near the corner of Oxford Street and Holloway for eight people. (fn. 869) In 1643 he gave a rent
charge of £40 from Widhill manor in Cricklade
for their upkeep and by will dated 1651 provided
for the payment to continue. In the later 17th century and the early 18th actions were brought
against his heirs for failure to pay the rent charge;
payment ceased before c. 1740. Four of the almshouses were demolished in 1825 and the remainder
in the later 19th century. (fn. 870)
In 1654 Henry Grayle gave a rent charge of £10
yearly from lands in Great Somerford to apprentice poor children of Malmesbury. In the 19th century two children were usually apprenticed each
year. Three boys were apprenticed in 1904; beneficiaries were usually from the borough but sometimes from St. Paul Malmesbury Without. (fn. 871)
E. Waite (d. 1661) gave by will £3 a year to
the poor of the borough and Burton Hill. By a
deed of 1774 Anne Rowles gave two thirds of the
income from £100 to the poor of Malmesbury
parish. In the 1830s the income from the two charities was distributed together; each beneficiary
received 6d. In 1904 Waite's charity was distributed separately; adults received 6d. each and children 3d. (fn. 872) No record has been found of payments
after 1910. (fn. 873) By a Scheme of 1907 Rowles's charity
was united with that of William Arnold. The combined income, then c. £17, was thereafter used
to buy coal for elderly residents or widows in the
borough and Burton Hill. (fn. 874) In the later 20th century the income was allowed to accumulate and
few payments were made. (fn. 875)
In 1695 Michael Wickes gave the income from
lands in Great Somerford for charitable purposes
in Malmesbury, including payments to St. John's
almshouse, the free school, and the vicar of
Malmesbury. The residue was to be distributed
as the trustees thought fit. There was apparently
little residue until the school was closed in 1890. (fn. 876)
Thereafter the money was given to other Malmesbury institutions; in 1914 recipients of a total of
£68 included the cottage hospital, the lying-in
society, and the mayor's coal fund. (fn. 877)
Benefactions under the will of Elizabeth
Hodges, dated 1723, included £10 yearly for poor
housekeepers of Malmesbury. From 1820 equal
payments were made to 20 of the second poor;
beneficiaries were nominated for life. Similar payments were made in 1904. (fn. 878) The charity's income
remained c. £10 in 1960. (fn. 879) In 1987 payments totalling £175 were made to poor residents of Malmesbury and of three other parishes named in the
founder's will. (fn. 880)
By a deed of 1758 Robert Cullerne gave £17
10s. of a rent charge of £20 from lands in Lea
and Cleverton to be given to the poor of Malmesbury (presumably the borough), of Burton Hill,
and of Westport; each family was to receive 5s.
annually. In 1904 payments were probably to individuals and each received 2s. 6d., (fn. 881) in 1975–6 payments of 25P each were made to 87 applicants, (fn. 882)
and similar payments were made in 1987. (fn. 883)
By will dated 1778 William Arnold gave the
income from £400 to buy bread for the poor of
Malmesbury. In 1904 the income, £14 8s. 4d.,
was used to buy bread for the poor of the borough
and Burton Hill. (fn. 884) By a Scheme of 1907 the charity
was united with that of Anne Rowles. (fn. 885)
May Moore (d. 1978) gave by will a house in
Abbey Row and £10,000 to house and care for
the elderly. In 1983 it was declared that the endowment should be used to provide grants, clothing,
or travel for elderly residents within the boundaries of the former borough, and that an administrator should occupy the house. The yearly income
was then c. £1, 300. (fn. 886)
CORSTON
Corston was a village, chapelry, and tithing in
the south-western corner of Malmesbury parish.
In 1839 its lands measured c. 1,140 a. (461 ha.). (fn. 887)
They may have been those of a 10-hide estate
beside the 'Corsaburna', later called Gauze
brook, (fn. 888) apparently the subject of a grant in 701, (fn. 889)
In 1086 Corston was part of Malmesbury abbey's
large estate called Brokenborough. Corston's
boundaries had apparently been fixed by c. 1100
when all except its northern one were surveyed
with others of the Brokenborough estate; they may
have been roughly those of c. 1840, when the
northern boundary was a little north of Gauze
brook, but few landmarks on them c. 1100 can
now be traced. (fn. 890) In the later 13th century Corston
was apparently part of the abbey's Cowfold
estate, (fn. 891) but later may again have been a separate
estate; possibly in the 12th century, certainly
before 1341, a church was built there. (fn. 892)
In 1377 there were 46 poll-tax payers in Corston,
a little below average for a place in Malmesbury
hundred, (fn. 893) and Corston was of below average prosperity in the late 16th century. (fn. 894) Its population
rose rapidly in the early 19th century, from 127
in 1801 to reach 171 in 1821 and 322 in 1851, (fn. 895)
but had fallen to 304 by 1881, (fn. 896) Numbers increased
again in the mid and late 20th century when married quarters were built for R.A.F- Hullavington
and private and local authority houses were built
in Corston village. (fn. 897)
The village lies beside Gauze brook at the north
end of the chapelry. Its early focus may have been
around a green where a road from Rodbourne joins
the Malmesbury—Chippenham road; the church
stands on rising ground in the north-eastern angle
of the junction. In the early 18th century settlement extended north along the Malmesbury road
to Gauze brook and Corston Mill, south to the
farmstead later called Manor Farm, and east along
the Rodbourne road to the farmstead later called
Firs Farm. (fn. 898) Surviving buildings of that or earlier
date include the possibly 17th-century Manor
Farm, two stone cottages of 17th-century origin
east of the main road, and the Hermitage, a 17thcentury stone house south of the church. Only
a few 18th-century cottages survive; some were
rebuilt in the 19th century. The Radnor Arms west
of the road was built and opened as an inn in the
1790s. (fn. 899) Firs Farm was largely rebuilt in the 19th
century. The southern and eastern limits of the
village remained unchanged until the 20th century. By 1828 settlement had spread north of
Gauze brook to and beyond the boundary of the
chapelry, mainly on the west side of the Malmesbury road. (fn. 900) There Newlands Cottage bears the
date 1825; north of it Newlands Farm and Quarry
House replaced other buildings in the later 19th
century. The Bell inn, which stood west of the
main road north of Gauze brook in 1881, had
closed by 1899. (fn. 901) North of Gauze brook settlement
also spread along Mill Lane in the mid and later
19th century when cottages and a nonconformist
chapel were built west of the mill. (fn. 902) The Mill inn
was open in 1910 (fn. 903) and closed c. 1965. (fn. 904) Another
chapel was built west and the vicarage house north
of the church in the late 19th century; a reading
room was built north-west of the church in 1904. (fn. 905)
In 1933 three pairs of council houses were built
350 m. south-west of Manor Farm; (fn. 906) in the later
20th century a garage, on the site of a small group
of gabled 17th-century cottages demolished in the
1960s, (fn. 907) and Kingway View, a row of bungalows,
was built north of them. In the 1950s 22 council
houses were built beside the Rodbourne road.
Manor Park, a private estate of eight houses and
bungalows, was built north-east of Manor Farm
in the 1970s. Elsewhere in the village there has
been infilling in the late 20th century. The bridge
carrying the Malmesbury-Chippenham road over
Gauze brook was rebuilt in 1984. (fn. 908)
There was no substantial building in the
chapelry outside the village in the early 18th century. (fn. 909) By 1773 a farmstead called the Bell had
been built beside the boundary with Stanton St.
Quintin south-west of the village. Another,
Kingway, was built east of the Chippenham road
south of the village between 1773 and 1828. (fn. 910) After
its land was acquired for Hullavington airfield in
1935 Bell Farm was demolished and houses and
other buildings for R.A.F. Hullavington were
thereafter built on and around its site. They
include 62 houses in Anson Place built in 1935–6
and 1948–9. In addition to the buildings the main
north-east and south-west runway was built on the
115 ha. of Corston in the station, which also had
land and buildings in Stanton St. Quintin and Hullavington. (fn. 911) Hangar Farm was built east of the
Chippenham road near the airfield between 1959
and 1974. (fn. 912) The Plough, a small 19th-century
stone building beside the Rodbourne road, was
open as a public house in 1885; (fn. 913) it was closed
in 1964. (fn. 914)
Manor and other Estates.
Corston
seems to have been the 10-hide estate beside Gauze
brook apparently granted by King Ine to Malmesbury abbey in 701. (fn. 915) Six hides in Corston, presumably the whole estate, were held of the abbey
by Ranulph Flambard in 1086, (fn. 916) but later the
abbey had no tenant in demesne. Corston passed
to the Crown at the Dissolution (fn. 917) and in 1564 the
manor of CORSTON was sold to Thomas Chadderton (fn. 918) (fl. 1567). (fn. 919) In 1569 it was bought from
Thomas's creditors by his cousin William Chadderton, (fn. 920) who sold the lordship and most of the
lands in 1573 to Sir Walter Hungerford. (fn. 921) Sir
Walter (d. 1596) (fn. 922) was succeeded by his halfbrother Sir Edward Hungerford (d. 1607), (fn. 923)
whose relict Cecily, from 1608 wife of Francis
Manners, from 1612 earl of Rutland, may have
retained the manor until her death in 1653. (fn. 924) It
was inherited by Sir Anthony Hungerford (d.
1657) and by his son Sir Edward, (fn. 925) who in 1682
conveyed the manor to his uncle Sir Giles Hungerford. (fn. 926) From Sir Giles (d. 1685) it passed like Stanton St. Quintin manor to his relict Margaret, to
his son-in-law Robert Sutton, Baron Lexinton,
and in the Bouverie family and with the viscountcy
of Folkestone and the earldom of Radnor to Jacob,
earl of Radnor (d. 1930). (fn. 927)
In 1905 Lord Radnor sold Manor farm, c. 330
a., (fn. 928) probably to David Roberts, the owner in
1910 (fn. 929) and 1912. (fn. 930) The farm was sold again in
1919, (fn. 931) and in 1927 belonged to Frank Sage. (fn. 932) In
1951 it was offered for sale as Manor farm, 155
a., and South Side farm, 143 a., by W. S. Tyler. (fn. 933)
Since then those lands have been owned by members of the Eavis family, who held Manor farm,
c. 330 a., in 1987. (fn. 934) Between 1910 and 1912 Lord
Radnor sold Bell farm, 401 a., and 146 a., part
of Lower Stanton farm based in Stanton St. Quintin, to Meredith Meredith-Brown (d. 1920), whose
estate was broken up c. 1920. In 1919 or 1920
S. H. Jones bought Lower Stanton farm and 116
a. of Bell farm. Half those lands descended to his
son Mr. S. Jones (fn. 935) who sold them as Hangar farm,
217 a., in 1989. (fn. 936) F. J. Huntley bought Bell farm
in 1920, and in 1935 sold it to the state for Hullavington airfield. (fn. 937)
In 1575 William Chadderton sold the rest of
Corston manor, c. 130 a. and rights of pasture,
to Thomas Richman (fn. 938) (fl. 1576). (fn. 939) That estate was
held c. 1580 by John Richman (fn. 940) (d. 1615), who
was succeeded by his daughter Margaret, wife of
Edmund James (d. 1620). (fn. 941) From Margaret (fl.
1664) it passed to her son Edmund James (d. by
1675) whose relict Anne married William Cole c.
1677. From Elizabeth, wife of Francis Goddard
and a descendant of Margaret James's younger
daughter, Cole bought the reversion of a moiety
in 1691, and from Edward Brown, grandson of
Margaret's elder daughter Margaret, he bought
the reversion of the other in 1700. The manor descended with Bradfield manor in Hullavington to
Cole's daughter Anne Cale and to her daughter
Anne, wife of the Revd. Anthony Whistler (d.
1719). The Whistlers' son John (fn. 942) sold it in 1771
to William, earl of Radnor, (fn. 943) and it was reunited
with the manor.
The rectorial tithes from Corston were due to
Malmesbury abbey, passed to the Crown at the
Dissolution (fn. 944) and were probably all granted in
1606 to Laurence Baskerville, William Blake, and
Roger Rogers, (fn. 945) perhaps for a member of the
Bridges family. In 1622 John Bridges conveyed
the tithes to Robert Bridges and his wife Elizabeth, (fn. 946) and in 1653 they were settled on Richard
Bridges and his wife Eleanor. Richard was apparently succeeded in turn by his son George and
by George's son George, who in 1731 sold the
tithes to Richard Bromwich. By will proved 1753
Bromwich gave them to his wife Susannah (d.
1764), who devised them to her nephew John
Melhuish. In 1791 Melhuish sold them to R. H.
Gaby and Walter Gaby (d. c. 1811) (fn. 947) and in 1822
R. H. Gaby sold them to Jacob, earl of Radnor. (fn. 948)
Thereafter they were merged. (fn. 949)
Economic History.
In 1086 Ranulph
Flambard's estate had land for 5 ploughteams, but
only 3 teams worked it; 2 villani and 2 coscets
had 2 teams, and 2 servi and a third team were
apparently on the demesne. There were 10 a. of
meadow, 15 a. of pasture, and woodland 3 furlongs
long and 1 furlong broad. (fn. 950)
Customary tenants may have cultivated much
of Corston's land in the late 13th century. (fn. 951) In
the late 16th century almost two thirds of the lands
were arable. There were fields called Ham, Up,
and Broad lying respectively east, south, and west
of Corston village. Another, West field, was in
the south-west corner of the chapelry; the location
of a fifth field, Old Lands, is not known. Most
were presumably open fields, but all or part of
Up field had been inclosed by the earlier 15th century. Most of the pasture lay in the south and
beside the western boundary; there was presumably meadow land beside Gauze brook. Only c.
100 a. of pasture were common, and c. 200 a. of
meadow and pasture were in closes; c. 60 a. of
pasture, probably near the boundary with Hullavington, had been inclosed by the early 16th century. The tenants of both parts of Corston manor
shared the common pasture; some also had grazing
rights on 60 a. of King's Heath. (fn. 952)
The farm sold to Thomas Richman in 1575 was
in 1574 a holding of 3 yardlands, including 34 a.
of several pasture of which 12 a. had recently been
inclosed, 90 a. of arable in the open fields, 6 a.
of meadow, and rights of common pasture. (fn. 953) By
1691 most of the farm's arable had been converted
to c. 160 a. of several pasture. (fn. 954) The copyholders
of Corston owed cash payments instead of services
of cutting and carrying hay from three meadows
in Cole park, (fn. 955) and had earlier owed works of
ploughing in Kemboro field in Burton Hill. (fn. 956) A
leasehold comprised 98 a., including 80 a. of
arable. (fn. 957)
By 1720 all Corston's lands had been inclosed. (fn. 958)
Some were still copyhold in the late 18th century (fn. 959)
but the larger holdings were probably leasehold.
In 1800, by which date the two portions of the
manor had been reunited, there were two large
farms, of 354 a. and 409 a., and five of between
20 a. and 60 a. each. (fn. 960) In 1839 Manor farm was
484 a., mainly in the north, and Bell farm was
455 a., mainly in the south. The chapelry was then
half arable and half pasture; most of the arable
was in the south and centre. There were 16 a.
of wood beside the boundary with Rodbourne. (fn. 961)
Coarse heath, 17 a. lying 700 m. south of the village, was worked as 60 allotments in 1834, (fn. 962) but
not in 1839. (fn. 963) Pasture in Corston was used principally to graze sheep in the mid 19th century; there
were over 1,100 in 1866. (fn. 964) In 1910 most of the
land lay in four farms, Manor, 308 a., Bell, 401
a., Newlands, 119 a., and one of 146 a. (fn. 965) Manor
farm was mainly pasture in the early 20th century. (fn. 966)
It was later worked as two farms, in 1951 as Manor,
155 a., and South Side, 143 a., respectively northwest and south-east of the Malmesbury—Chippenham road. Both were mixed farms; there was more
arable than pasture on Manor farm, more pasture
than arable on South Side farm. (fn. 967) Thereafter the
lands were again worked as a single farm. In 1987
Manor farm was a mixed holding; there was a dairy
herd of 200, and wheat and barley were grown
on c. 300 a., some of it in Hullavington parish. (fn. 968)
Bell farm had been divided into holdings of 116
a. and 285 a. by 1927. (fn. 969) The larger portion, west
of the Malmesbury—Chippenham road, went out
of agricultural use in 1935. (fn. 970) The smaller, east of
the road, was part of Lower Stanton farm; later,
as part of Hangar farm, it was worked from a reused hangar. (fn. 971)
There was a mill at Corston in 1086 (fn. 972) and 1539. (fn. 973)
A mill on Gauze brook was part of Corston manor
in 1810. (fn. 974) It and the mill house were rebuilt in
the early 19th century. The mill ceased working
c. 1899. (fn. 975)
Stanton brickworks, east of the MalmesburyChippenham road 500 m. north of the boundary
with Stanton St. Quintin, was probably open in
1861 and certainly in 1885; it was closed in the
early 20th century. (fn. 976)
In 1834 there was a quarry, presumably for
limestone, north of Corston church, and another
at the north end of the village; (fn. 977) both had apparently been closed by 1885. Two more quarries
were at the north end of the village, and another
south of the brickworks, in 1899. By 1921 one
of the quarries in the village had been closed. (fn. 978)
The other and that near the brickworks remained
open in 1927 (fn. 979) but were disused in 1987. (fn. 980)
Local Government.
In the early 16th century and perhaps until the sale of the manor by
the Crown in 1564, courts for Corston were held
at a house in Cole park. (fn. 981) In 1561–2 the Crown
held views of frankpledge and manor courts in
spring and autumn. (fn. 982) Between 1712 and 1742
courts baron were usually held annually, in spring
until 1718 and in autumn thereafter. From 1720
leet business was also transacted. A tithingman
was appointed and the homage presented buildings
to be repaired, watercourses to be cleaned, and
the deaths of copyholders. (fn. 983) No court is recorded
after c. 1790. (fn. 984)
Corston did not relieve its own poor, but in the
later 18th century and the early 19th an overseer
was appointed to deal only with Corston. In
1760–1 two people received regular relief totalling
£7; occasional relief and other extraordinary costs
amounted to £3. The number regularly relieved
had risen to six by 1770–1, and £39 was spent
on the poor in 1780–1. (fn. 985)
Church.
The shape of Corston church before
it was rebuilt in the 19th century suggests that
it was built in the 12th century. (fn. 986) A church at Corston may have been served from Malmesbury
abbey until a vicarage of Malmesbury was ordained
between 1191 and the mid 13th century, but none
is recorded until 1341 when there was a chapel
dependent on Malmesbury church. (fn. 987) Inhabitants
of Corston had right of burial there in the 18th
century, (fn. 988) and there is no evidence that they lacked
it earlier. A recommendation in 1650 that Corston
and Rodbourne should form a benefice (fn. 989) was
apparently not implemented. In 1881 Corston
with Rodbourne became a district chapelry, with
an incumbent usually called a vicar. The advowson
was assigned to Charlotte Kemble, patron of
Malmesbury, and the vicar was apparently given
part of the income of Malmesbury vicarage. In
1882 the advowson was given to the Crown in an
exchange and the vicar's income was increased by
£16 13s. 4d. from a private benefaction and by
the same sum from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. (fn. 990) A vicarage house was built in 1884. (fn. 991)
The house was sold in 1985, (fn. 992) and in 1986 the
benefice was united with the benefice of Great
Somerford, Little Somerford, and Seagry: the
Crown had the right to present at two of every
five turns to the united benefice. (fn. 993)
Until 1881 vicars of Malmesbury usually
appointed a curate to serve both Corston and Rodbourne churches. (fn. 994) In 1650 Simon Gawen served
the two churches 'at the request of the greatest
part of the inhabitants', who paid him tithes due
to the vicar of Malmesbury. (fn. 995) In the late 18th century and the early 19th afternoon services were
held on alternate Sundays at Corston. (fn. 996) The
church was apparently served by the vicar of Malmesbury c. 1830. (fn. 997) On Census Sunday in 1851
a morning service at Corston was attended by 38
adults, a congregation said to be smaller than
usual. (fn. 998) From 1951 the church with that at Rodbourne, was held in plurality with the benefice
of Foxley with Bremilham; the incumbent usually
lived at Corston. (fn. 999) After 1983 there was no resident
incumbent. (fn. 1000)
ALL SAINTS', church, so called in 1763, (fn. 1001) is
built of limestone rubble with ashlar dressings and
has a chancel and a nave with north transept and
south porch. Only the south doorway and the octagonal west bellcot, both of which are probably 15thcentury, survive from the structure of a singlecelled church which was rebuilt in 1881. The
old church was a long narrow building, of similar
size to the 12th-century nave of Rodbourne
church. (fn. 1002) A 15th-century screen, which divided
the chancel and nave, a plain early 17th-century
pulpit, and some wall tablets survive from its interior. The transept was added c. 1900 but other alterations which were proposed then, including the
removal of a gallery, were not carried out until
1911 when the chancel was added. (fn. 1003)
In 1553 plate weighing 2½ oz. was confiscated
from Corston; a chalice weighing 8½ oz. was left.
It was replaced in 1577 by another with paten cover
for use at both Corston and Rodbourne. A paten
of c. 1720, a flagon, and an almsdish were acquired
by the chapels in the 19th century. (fn. 1004) The chalice
and the later plate were still held in 1987. (fn. 1005)
There were two bells in 1553. A bell, said in
1927 to be ancient, and another, of 1884 by J.
Warner & Sons, (fn. 1006) were recast in 1930. (fn. 1007) They hung
in the church in 1986. (fn. 1008)
Nonconformity.
A curate removed from
Corston and Rodbourne in 1662, presumably for
nonconformity, may have been the vicar of
Malmesbury, Simon Gawen, or his nominee. (fn. 1009)
There were said to be many dissenters, including
Quakers, in Corston and its neighbourhood in the
late 17th century. (fn. 1010)
A house at Corston was certified for Independent meetings in 1803 (fn. 1011) and a chapel was built
north of the church in 1821. It was served in 1823
by John Evans, a minister from Malmesbury, who
claimed that the congregation then numbered 200.
In 1851 on Census Sunday 67 people attended
the morning service, 127 the evening service. (fn. 1012)
The chapel was replaced by a new small Congregational chapel, of brick with stone dressings, built
west of the church c. 1898; that chapel had been
closed by 1921. (fn. 1013) In 1825 a house at Corston was
certified for meetings of Primitive Methodists. (fn. 1014)
The Zion chapel in Mill Lane was built in 1857 (fn. 1015)
and opened in 1858 by Strict Baptists. (fn. 1016) The small
chapel, of stone rubble, had been closed by 1899. (fn. 1017)
Education.
There were two dame schools
with a total of c. 20 pupils in Corston in 1858. (fn. 1018)
A school there in 1865 (fn. 1019) was presumably closed
when the school at Rodbourne was extended to
serve both villages in 1872. (fn. 1020)
RODBOURNE
Rodbourne is a village whose lands formed a
long and narrow tithing and chapelry in the southeast corner of Malmesbury parish. The chapelry
originated as an estate on the stream called Rodbourne given to Malmesbury abbey. (fn. 1021) The stream
was that south of Rodbourne village, joining the
Avon at Great Somerford. The boundaries of Rodbourne's lands were described in the late 11th century or early 12th, when they were marked partly
by the Rodbourne, Gauze brook, and the Avon. (fn. 1022)
Little Somerford was given land west of the Avon
in 1281, (fn. 1023) but Rodbourne's other boundaries had
apparently been changed little by 1839. The
chapelry then comprised c. 1,350 a. (546 ha.). (fn. 1024)
Rodbourne had a church from the 12th century
or earlier. (fn. 1025)
In 1334 Corston and Rodbourne were assessed
together for taxation at the above average sum of
56s. Rodbourne may then have been more prosperous than Corston and in 1377 had 69 poll-tax
payers, well above the average for Malmesbury
hundred. (fn. 1026) It may have been less prosperous in
the late 16th century. (fn. 1027) In 1801 the population
of the chapelry was 108. Numbers rose in succeeding decades, with some fluctuations, and reached
a peak of 173 in 1851. (fn. 1028) By 1881 they had fallen
to 143, (fn. 1029) and the decline apparently continued in
the 20th century.
The buildings of Rodbourne village are strung
out along a street behind wide verges which in
1773 opened out to form a central green on which
the church stood. Settlement then extended northwards along lanes forming the green's eastern and
western edges, and southwards along the road later
called Pound Hill. The oldest buildings in the village are at its east and west ends; Rodbourne
House to the east and a cottage to the west are
of 17th-century origin. Some houses beside Pound
Hill had been demolished by 1828; those which
survived, on both sides of the Rodbourne stream,
form a hamlet called Rodbourne Bottom. North
of the stream Bottom Farm and south of the stream
cottages and farm buildings were rebuilt in the
19th century. A cottage on the west side of Pound
Hill bears the date 1836. By 1828 the lane on the
west side of the green had been closed and the
green made smaller. It and the wide verges east
and west of it survived in the late 20th century,
when trees stood on much of them. Between 1773
and 1828 cottages or farmsteads were built on the
south side of the street between the church and
Rodbourne House, (fn. 1030) but some of them had been
removed by 1842. (fn. 1031) Much of the village was rebuilt
in the mid 19th century by members of the Pollen
family which owned Rodbourne manor; some
buildings bear their arms or initials. Roman Cottage south of the street was built in 1845; Parsloe's
Farm north of it was extended in 1852. (fn. 1032) Both
are of stone with dressings of local brick. Also on
the south side of the street Manor Farm and a
school were built in the mid 19th century. Thereafter little new building took place in the village;
a house and a bungalow were built north of Rodbourne House in the late 20th century, and a water
tower was built west of the church in 1951. (fn. 1033)
There was a farmstead called Rodbourne
Cleeve, 1 km. south of the church, in 1773 (fn. 1034) and
probably earlier. Cleeve House was built on its
site in 1899. (fn. 1035) From 1970 until 1985 it was used
as a children's home by Wiltshire county council. (fn. 1036)
Angrove Farm north-east of the village was built
between 1828 and 1842. (fn. 1037) Angrove Cottages,
south-west of the farmstead, were built in the early
20th century to replace others east of the farmstead
apparently demolished when the railway line was
built in 1903. (fn. 1038)
Manor and other Estate.
The 10
manentes of Rodbourne were apparently granted
to Malmesbury abbey by King Ine in 701,
although the abbey later claimed to have been
given them as part of its Brokenborough estate
in 956. (fn. 1039) Rodbourne belonged to the abbey until
the Dissolution. (fn. 1040) In 1544 the Crown granted
RODBOURNE manor to William Stumpe (fn. 1041) (d.
1552). It passed to his son Sir James (fn. 1042) (d. 1563)
and to Sir James's daughter Elizabeth, wife of
Henry Knyvett. (fn. 1043) In 1573 Elizabeth and Henry
conveyed the manor to Sir Giles Poole (fn. 1044) (d. 1588).
Poole was succeeded in turn by his son Sir Henry (fn. 1045)
(d. 1616) and Sir Henry's son Henry, (fn. 1046) who sold
it to Henry Danvers, earl of Danby, in 1642. (fn. 1047)
It passed with Malmesbury manor to the sisters
of Henry Danvers (d. 1654), and with other
Danvers lands may have been divided in 1673 when
a moiety was probably assigned to Eleanor Lee,
daughter of Danvers's sister Anne. (fn. 1048) In 1683 Danvers's sister Elizabeth surrendered a moiety to
James Bertie, earl of Abingdon, Eleanor's husband. (fn. 1049) Abingdon was succeeded in 1699 by his
son Montagu, earl of Abingdon, (fn. 1050) who by 1720 had
sold the whole manor to Walter Hungerford. (fn. 1051)
Walter (d. 1754) was succeeded by his nephew
George Hungerford (d. 1764), (fn. 1052) who devised a
portion of Rodbourne to his wife Elizabeth and
the rest to members of the Duke and Luttrell families. (fn. 1053) On Elizabeth's death in 1816 all or part of
the manor passed to her nephew Sir John Pollen,
Bt., who held the whole manor in 1839. (fn. 1054) From
Sir John (d. 1863) the manor passed with the
baronetcy to his nephew Richard (d. 1881), to Sir
Richard's son Richard (d. 1918), and to that Sir
Richard's sons Sir Richard (d. 1930) and Sir
John. (fn. 1055) About 1938 Sir John sold Angrove farm,
204 a. Thereafter the farm was held by members
of the Palmer family until 1976 when it was bought
by Mr. and Mrs. R. F. Parfitt, the owners in
1987. (fn. 1056) The bulk of the estate passed from Sir John
(d. 1959) to his kinsman Sir John Pollen, Bt., the
owner in 1987. (fn. 1057)
Rodbourne House, formerly the home of the
Pollens, is apparently of early 17th-century origin
and consists of a main east—west range. It was given
a new south front and a west wing with a bow
window at its north end in the later 18th century.
In the early 19th century the interior was refitted
and a little later rooms were added to the north
in the angle between the main range and the wing.
A tower was built east of that extension in 1859; (fn. 1058)
at a similar or slightly later date some chimneys
were rebuilt with alternating bands of red brick
and ashlar. A ground-floor extension in red brick
was built across the whole of the south front in
the late 19th century. The gardens were extended
between 1842 and 1885, when the road beside the
south front was moved 50 m. further south. (fn. 1059)
After the Dissolution tithes of grain, hay, wool,
and lambs, arising in Rodbourne, probably in the
whole chapelry, passed with tithes from Corston
to Robert Bridges (fl. 1622) and his wife Elizabeth. (fn. 1060) They were apparently bought by Henry
Poole and were merged with Rodbourne manor. (fn. 1061)
Economic History.
Intercommoning of
pastures beside the Avon between Rodbourne and
Little Somerford was ended by an agreement of
1281. Most of the pastures on the right bank were
allotted to the men of Rodbourne, but the lord
and tenants of Little Somerford also retained
meadow land there. (fn. 1062) Rodbourne's pastures beside
the river were apparently several in the mid 16th
century when the only common pasture in the
chapelry was the Heath, c. 60 a. south of the village. Open arable fields were then called East,
West, and Park. (fn. 1063)
There is no record of demesne land at Rodbourne. In the mid 16th century 15 copyholders
held between them 29½ yardlands; none held more
than 3 yardlands. Other holdings were of no more
than a few acres each. Like those of Corston the
tenants' obligations to cut and carry hay from Cole
park and to plough in Kemboro field had been
commuted for cash payments by the mid 16th century. (fn. 1064)
There were still open fields in Rodbourne in
the early 18th century, (fn. 1065) but common cultivation
had ceased by the early 19th. (fn. 1066) The Heath, apparently common pasture in 1820, (fn. 1067) had by 1839 been
inclosed and ploughed. Most of the chapelry was
grassland in 1839; there were c. 250 a. of arable
and 57 a. of woodland, including Angrove wood,
18 a. near the Avon, and Bincombe wood, 31 a.
south-west of Rodbourne village. There were
seven farms of over 80 a. each; 166 a., including
the woodland, was in the lord's hand. Farms of
152 a., 179 a., and 82 a. worked from farmsteads
in the village, and Bottom farm, 173 a., worked
from a farmstead south of the village, were scattered holdings. Angrove farm, 208 a. in the northeast corner of the chapelry, and Cleeve farm, 264
a. in the south-west corner, were compact. (fn. 1068)
Totals of stock in the chapelry in 1866, including
213 cattle, 322 sheep, and 105 pigs, (fn. 1069) suggest that
farming remained primarily pastoral. In the earlier
20th century most of the land was worked in farms
of 100–200 a. In 1910 a farm of 308 a., called
Godwins, worked from the village, may have
included land formerly in Cleeve farm, the buildings of which had been removed, but by 1927 it
had been divided into smaller holdings. In 1910
Parsloe's farm and Manor farm were also worked
from the village, Angrove farm and Bottom farm
from outside it. (fn. 1070) Then, as later in the century,
dairying and sheep farming predominated. Cattle
reared for beef replaced some dairy herds in the
late 1970s. (fn. 1071)
There was a brickworks at the west end of Rodbourne village in 1839. Then and in 1848 Richard
Tanner made bricks and tiles there. In 1867
George Tanner also produced pipes, and in 1911
Robert Tanner made bricks and tiles, burned lime,
perhaps on the same site, and owned a quarry.
In the 1930s he also produced small bricks for
fireplaces. (fn. 1072) The brickworks was closed c. 1940. (fn. 1073)
Local Government.
Views of frankpledge
and courts for Rodbourne manor were held in May
or June and in December in the years 1544–6.
Jurors presented public nuisances, such as the disrepair of a lane and a road, and the arrival of stray
animals, and the homage presented the death of
copyholders. A tithingman and a reeve were
elected. (fn. 1074)
Between 1559 and 1573 views and courts for
Rodbourne were recorded with those for Burton
Hill manor. From 1569 to 1572 a single view was
held for both and the tithingman of Rodbourne
presented. Separate courts baron were held for
Rodbourne at which the homage presented and
the tithingman was elected. (fn. 1075)
Rodbourne did not relieve its own poor, but
like Corston had its own overseer in the later 18th
century and early 19th. Regular relief was received
by five people in Rodbourne in 1760–1 and 1770–1.
The cost was £16 in 1760–1 when a further £10
was spent on occasional relief; in 1780–1 a total
of £21 was spent. (fn. 1076)
Church.
Rodbourne church was built or replaced in the 12th century, (fn. 1077) and, until a vicarage
of Malmesbury was ordained between 1191 and
the mid 13th century, may have been served from
Malmesbury abbey. (fn. 1078) Inhabitants may have had
right of burial, as those of Corston had, (fn. 1079) but
marriages probably took place in the mother
church until 1873 when Rodbourne chapel was
licensed for their performance. (fn. 1080) The institutional
history of the church from 1881, and aspects of
the earlier life of the church, are described with
those of Corston. (fn. 1081)
In the late 18th century and the early 19th services were held in Rodbourne church on alternate
Sunday afternoons. (fn. 1082) On Census Sunday in 1851
an afternoon service was attended by 80 adults,
a congregation which was said to be larger than
usual. (fn. 1083)
The church of the HOLY ROOD, so called in
1763, (fn. 1084) is built of stone rubble with ashlar dressings and has a chancel and a nave with south porch,
baptistry, and tower. The narrow nave is 12thcentury and has two windows and two doorways
of that date. Each doorway has a tympanum, the
south carved with the tree of life, the north with
a cross. Because it is small and almost square the
chancel may also be 12th-century but otherwise
its earliest feature is the late 13th-century east window. The chancel piscina is 14th-century and new
windows were made in the south and west walls
of the nave and the south wall of the chancel in
the 15th century. The porch is of the later 15th
century or the earlier 16th. The chancel was refitted in 1849, when a window in 14th-century style
was made in its north wall. The tower and the
baptistry which joins it to the porch were added
in 1862; (fn. 1085) there may earlier have been a bellcot.
In 1865 glass designed by Ford Madox Brown and
D. G. Rosetti and made by Morris & Co. was
fitted in the east window. Extensive repairs,
including the renewal of some roofs and the reflooring of the nave, were made in 1903. (fn. 1086)
In 1553 a chalice weighing 7 oz. was left in Rodbourne and 2 oz. of plate were taken for the king. (fn. 1087)
Later plate was held jointly with Corston. (fn. 1088)
A bell of 1654, probably cast at Bristol, hung
at Rodbourne in 1987. (fn. 1089)
Nonconformity.
A Quaker from Rodbourne was buried in 1669 and a Quaker family
lived there in 1697. (fn. 1090)
A house at Rodbourne was certified for Independent meetings in 1797. (fn. 1091) An Independent chapel
had been built by 1823 and on Census Sunday
in 1851 an afternoon service in it was attended
by 50 people. (fn. 1092) No later reference to the chapel
has been found.
Education.
A school built at Rodbourne in
1851 (fn. 1093) was described as picturesque and commodious in 1858 when it had 20–30 pupils. (fn. 1094) From
1872 or earlier the school was a Church of England
school and served both Rodbourne and Corston; (fn. 1095)
it was extended in 1872 and 1893. (fn. 1096) The number
of pupils fell from 82 in 1872 (fn. 1097) to c. 65 in 1908;
until the 1930s average attendance remained
between 50 and 65. (fn. 1098) The school was closed in
1971. (fn. 1099) In 1947–8 Rodbourne House was used as
a private day and boarding school attended by 42
boys. (fn. 1100)