GREAT SOMERFORD
Great Somerford, (fn. 1) 5 km. south-east of
Malmesbury on the Bristol Avon, (fn. 2) was called
Somerford Mautravers from the later 13th century. From the 15th century the suffix, the surname of the lords of a manor in the parish, was
gradually replaced by the prefix Broad or Great. (fn. 3)
Both suffix and prefix distinguished Great Somerford from its smaller and less populous neighbour
Little Somerford or Somerford Mauduit. The parish includes the hamlet of Startley. Under an Act
of 1882 small parts of the parish were transferred
to Little Somerford and Malmesbury. (fn. 4) Great
Somerford thereafter measured 672 ha. (1,660 a.).
Most of the northern boundary is marked by
the Avon and its tributary the Rodbourne stream.
Failure to follow the river round the bend north
of the village suggests that the Avon's course has
changed. The stream, dividing Great Somerford
from Rodbourne in Malmesbury, was a boundary
in the late 11th century or early 12th. (fn. 5) To the
east the boundary with Dauntsey followed what
may have been an earlier course of the Avon until
1809, when it was redefined as a straight line west
of it. (fn. 6) Elsewhere a road and a stream mark short
stretches, but most of the west and south boundaries follow no prominent feature. The south is
part of a line, presumably drawn at an early inclosure, which also marks the south boundary of Great
Somerford's east and west neighbours.
Kellaways Clay, Oxford Clay, and Kellaways
Sand outcrop in the parish, the clay mainly in the
west, the sand mainly in the centre. To the east
are extensive gravel terraces, and much alluvium
has been deposited by the Rodbourne stream in
the north-west and by the Avon in the north-east
and south-east. The parish is almost flat. The
highest land, c. 90 m., is in the north-west, the
lowest, c. 60 m., at the south-east corner. (fn. 7) The
extensive meadow land on the alluvium and the
pasture on the clays have favoured animal husbandry in the parish, but tillage is also favoured
by the gravel, and some of the clay has been
ploughed. (fn. 8)
The parish is well served by lanes but no main
road crosses it. The road between Little Somerford and Sutton Benger links Great Somerford village with the road from Malmesbury to Wootton
Bassett and Swindon in the north and the
Swindon—Chippenham road in the south. Its original course may have been across a ford north of
the church, but in 1773 was further east across
a bridge. The Avon was presumably bridged long
before 1773; a new bridge, with a balustraded
parapet, was built c. 1799. (fn. 9) The road was turnpiked in 1809 and disturnpiked in 1876. (fn. 10) Joining
it in Seagry parish another north-south road, leading from Malmesbury, crosses the parish through
Startley. An east-west road from Dauntsey ran
through Great Somerford village to Startley, and
in 1773 west of Startley towards Rodbourne. (fn. 11) In
1809, when that west part was no longer in use,
the east part was made straight at inclosure. (fn. 12) A
more northerly road that ran to Startley in 1773 (fn. 13)
was, except at either end, a rough track in 1988.
The Malmesbury railway, to link Malmesbury
with Dauntsey station on the G.W.R. line between
London and Bristol, was built across the parish
and opened in 1877. A station called Somerford,
later Great Somerford, stood north of the village
in Little Somerford parish. Line and station were
closed in 1933, (fn. 14) and the line south of the station
had been removed by 1949. (fn. 15)

Great Somerford 1809
Artifacts of the early and middle Bronze Age
have been found in the parish. (fn. 16) In 1377 there
were 92 poll-tax payers of Great Somerford, one
of the higher totals for Malmesbury hundred, and
only 10 of Startley. (fn. 17) Taxation assessments in the
16th and early 17th century suggest that the parish
was prosperous. The fact that John Yew, the
owner of two manors in the parish and a clothier,
lived at Great Somerford, may account for a higher
than usual assessment in 1571 and in 1576. (fn. 18)
Between 1801 and 1841 the population increased
from 358 to 556. It fluctuated little between 1841
and 1891, when it was 530, but afterwards fell.
It was 421 in 1921, 448 in 1931. Thereafter the
building of private and council houses caused it
to increase: it was 662 in 1971, 668 in 1981. (fn. 19)
In 1989 Great Somerford was a large village
spread out mainly along the Little Somerford to
Sutton Benger road, called Park Lane to the north,
Top Street to the south, and along several streets
east and west of that road. Some of the older buildings are timber-framed but most, and most 19th century ones, are of stone. The village grew up
on the south bank of the Avon presumably near
the ford from which it took its name. (fn. 20) A mound
near the river is possibly the site of a motte-andbailey castle which may have been raised in the
12th century, and east of it the church was standing
by the late 12th century. Fragments of 12th century masonry have been found in the mound. (fn. 21)
A house called the Mount was built south of the
mound in the later 16th century and, east of the
Mount, a timber-framed building was erected,
possibly as a house, in the early 17th century. The
rectory house was built south of the church in the
early 17th century, and Brook Farm in the 16th
century on the east side of Park Lane. (fn. 22) At the
junction of Park Lane and Frog Lane a house
called Bevis has a long north-south range which
was originally timber-framed and of early 17th
century construction. At different dates the house
was partly rebuilt in brick and stone. J. L. Osborn
(d. 1940), a writer on Wiltshire topics, lived there
1910–24. (fn. 23) East of Bevis, a small symmetrically
fronted farmhouse was built in the early 19th century, and on the south side of Frog Lane cottages
were built of stone rubble in the late 18th. Further
west, north of the junction of Top Street and Hollow Street, the Old Makings was built in the early
19th century, and west of the junction, the Close
is a house built in the early 17th century, extended
south and west in the early 18th, and much altered
inside c. 1985. East of the junction a group of
later 19th-century red-brick buildings includes a
reading room erected in 1872 which became a
chapel in 1882. (fn. 24) Mills Farm on the east side of
Top Street was built in the 17th century, (fn. 25) and
east of it and abutting Winkins Lane is a large
barn of cruck construction. The Beeches, on the
west side of Top Street, was built of stone in the
later 19th century. (fn. 26)
In the 17th century or earlier farmsteads and
cottages were built in West Street to form a group
away from the main part of the village. The Manor
House, Manor Farmhouse, and West Street Farm
were all built in the 17th century, (fn. 27) and houses
on both sides of the street incorporate timber framing and may have been built in the later 16th or
earlier 17th century. West Street was diverted
from the south to the north side of the Manor
House between 1853 and 1885. (fn. 28)
Settlement began in Hollow Street after 1773. (fn. 29)
The only older building, of the early 17th century,
timber-framed, and partly rebuilt in brick, was
apparently a farm building. Parsloe, formerly
Church Farm, a small stone farmhouse, was built
on the north side of the street c. 1800, in 1809
c. 10 houses and cottages stood beside the street, (fn. 30)
and later a school was built. On the south side
a pair of stone cottages with an east front of ashlar
survives.
A house at the junction of Winkins Lane and
Dauntsey Road was built of rendered stone with
brick quoins in 1766. (fn. 31) In the 19th century the
village developed southwards along Top Street
and around its junction with West Street and
Dauntsey Road. South-west of the junction the
Volunteer inn was open in 1822, (fn. 32) and from 1836
to 1912 a friendly society met there. (fn. 33) Further
south, on the east side of the road to Sutton
Benger, the New Inn later the Masons Arms, was
open from 1841 until c. 1968. (fn. 34) Outside the village,
Downfield Farm south of Dauntsey Road was built
of stone c. 1824 to designs by Charles Fowler. (fn. 35)
A keeper's house was built at the level crossing
in Dauntsey Road c. 1877. South of the village
at Seagry Heath a farmstead was built c. 1850 and
another c. 1912. (fn. 36)
Council and private houses were built in all parts
of the village in the 20th century. In 1932 six,
and in 1938 ten, council houses were built along
Dauntsey Road, and a new school was later built
there. In Winkins Lane 16 council houses were
built in 1949–50 and six bungalows for old people
in 1951, and in 1955 four council houses replaced
two cottages north of Hollow Street. Further west
along Hollow Street a residential caravan site was
opened beside the Avon in 1964. Two bungalows
were built on the east side of Shiptons Lane in
the 1960s and, north-west of the junction of Top
Street and West Street, 15 bungalows in Manor
Park were built 1969–70. (fn. 37)
Near its eastern edge the common called Startley
marsh was crossed by the road leading from
Malmesbury. According to tradition Startley
hundred courts met on the common in the Middle
Ages. (fn. 38) East of the road the common formed a
wide verge, extending north of the junction with
the road from Great Somerford first on the east
side of the road and then on the west, and there
was a further area of common, called Goose Green
in 1773, (fn. 39) to the north-west. There was settlement
round the edges of the common in the 17th century
and later: Heath Farm, east of the road at the
north end of the settlement, is a small 17th-century
stone house of one storey and attics which was
raised to two storeys and altered in the 19th century; the Cottage, west of the road at the south
end, is a small timber-framed house built in the
17th century and cased in brick in the 18th; Marsh
Farm, which apparently stood in 1809, (fn. 40) was
rebuilt c. 1960; (fn. 41) Goose Green Farm was rebuilt
of stone with a symmetrical south front c. 1800;
and Grove Farm, at the north end on the west
side, was standing in 1809 and rebuilt in brick
in the later 19th century. By 1809 there had also
been encroachments on the common, 2 or 3 cottages at Goose Green, c. 3 on the west side of
the road at the north end, and c. 7 on the wide
verge east of the road. (fn. 42) Those at Goose Green
had been demolished by 1885. (fn. 43) The oldest of the
others to survive is apparently Barn Gates, built
near the north end of the settlement in the later
18th century and extended east in the 19th. After
inclosure in 1809 Startley Farm was built on the
west side of the road and White Lodge, with a
symmetrical west front, on the east side, both in
the earlier 19th century; a nonconformist chapel
was built later; and in the later 19th century and
the 20th houses and bungalows were built on both
sides. Cottages north of Heath Road in 1773 (fn. 44) were
rebuilt in the 19th century.
Manors and other Estates.
There
were seven separate Domesday estates in Great
Somerford. The equal size of Edwin's and
Alnod's, and of Alwin's, Alwi's, and Saieva's, may
imply the division of earlier large estates. In 1066
Edwin held 3 hides and 24 a. that became the
manor of SOMERFORD MAUTRAVERS.
Humphrey Lisle held the estate, with a house in
Malmesbury, in 1086 (fn. 45) and it passed to his
daughter Adelize, wife of Reynold or Robert de
Dunstanville. From their son Reynold (d. 1156)
the overlordship passed with the barony of Castle
Combe in the direct male line to Walter de Dunstanville (fn. 46) (d. 1270). It passed to Walter's daughter
Parnel whose husband John de la Mare held it
until his death in 1313. From John it passed to
Bartholomew de Badlesmere, Lord Badlesmere
(d. 1322), who bought the reversion from Parnel's
son William de Montfort in 1309. (fn. 47) On the death
of Badlesmere's son Giles in 1338, it was allotted
to Giles's sister Elizabeth (d. 1356), the wife of
William de Bohun, earl of Northampton. (fn. 48) The
overlordship was afterwards held by Elizabeth's
nephew Robert Tybotot, Lord Tybotot (d. s.p.m.
1372), whose heirs were overlords in 1380, (fn. 49) but
no later mention of it has been found.
In 1086 Robert held the estate of Humphrey
Lisle. (fn. 50) It was afterwards held by Roger son of
Geoffrey. Roger's coheirs were his daughters Ela,
wife of Richard of Herriard, and Alice (d. in or
before 1180), wife of John Mautravers (d. 1200).
In 1183–4 Alice's son Walter Mautravers (d.
before 1201) was assigned the estate. He forfeited
it after taking part in Prince John's rebellion of
1193, (fn. 51) and in 1194 it was apparently assigned to
his uncle Richard of Herriard in right of Ela. (fn. 52)
The estate was afterwards restored to Walter's
brother John Mautravers (d. 1220). John forfeited
it after joining the rebellion of 1215, but afterwards
recovered it. The manor passed in the direct male
line to John's son John (fl. 1242–3), (fn. 53) John (d.
1296 or 1297), (fn. 54) John (d. 1341), who was granted
free warren in his demesne lands, (fn. 55) and John, Lord
Mautravers (d. 1364). The manor passed to Lord
Mautravers's relict Agnes (d. 1375) (fn. 56) and granddaughter Eleanor Mautravers, suo jure Baroness
Mautravers (d. 1405), who married first John
d'Arundel, Lord Arundel (d. 1379), and secondly
Reynold Cobham, Lord Cobham (d. 1403). (fn. 57)
Eleanor was succeeded by her grandson John
d'Arundel, (fn. 58) Lord Mautravers (d. 1421), whose
relict Eleanor (d. 1455) married secondly Sir
Richard Poynings (d. c. 1430) and thirdly Walter
Hungerford, Lord Hungerford (d. 1449). (fn. 59) From
that Eleanor the manor passed to her son William
FitzAlan or Mautravers, earl of Arundel (d.
1487), (fn. 60) and descended from father to son with
the Arundel title to Thomas FitzAlan (d. 1524),
William FitzAlan (d. 1544), (fn. 61) and Henry FitzAlan
(d. 1580).
In 1561 Henry, earl of Arundel, sold Somerford
Mautravers manor to John Yew (fn. 62) (d. 1588). Yew
was succeeded by his son John (d. by 1623), (fn. 63) and
from the younger John the manor passed to his
granddaughter Anne Long, who, with her father
Gifford Long, sold it in 1623 to Robert Jason (fn. 64)
(d. 1634). The manor descended in the direct male
line to Sir Robert Jason, Bt. (d. 1675), and Sir
Robert Jason, Bt. (d. 1687). The younger Sir
Robert was foreclosed by the mortgagee, Sir
Richard Hawkins (d. 1687), (fn. 65) whose trustees sold
the manor in portions.
In 1699 John Smith (d. 1724) bought the manor
house and demesne lands called Somerford farm.
He was succeeded by his son John (d. 1765), who
c. 1750 bought other parts of Somerford
Mautravers manor. The younger John's daughter
Elizabeth Smith (d. 1798) devised the estate to
her kinsman William Jones (d. 1833), who took
the name Smith in place of Jones in 1798, and
to William's sister Mary (d. 1875), wife of Lazarus
Birtill. (fn. 66) The estate was greatly reduced, apparently by sales in the later 19th or early 20th century, and 103 a. were sold in 1903 by the
representatives of Mary Birtill's daughter-in-law
Janetta Birtill, (fn. 67) who in 1910 owned only the
Mount and 7 a. (fn. 68) The Mount was owned in 1927
by the Revd. W. J. Birtill, (fn. 69) from 1945 to 1955
by members of the Palmer family, (fn. 70) and from 1955
by Maj. P. W. G. Phillips, (fn. 71) the owner in 1988.
The Mount was built in the later 16th century
as an L-shaped timber-framed house with a northsouth hall range, entered through a two-storeyed
east porch, and a south wing extending to the east.
In the early 18th century a staircase was built in
the angle between the hall and the wing, and a
partition wall with heavily moulded panelling was
made on the first floor. In the early 19th century
the south elevation of the wing was made into a
symmetrical entrance front with a central pediment, and all the walls were roughcast. In the later
20th century some 18th-century fittings, including
panelling in the hall and a carved stone fireplace
in the south wing, were introduced.
In 1726 Richard Knapp and others sold 10 a.,
formerly part of Somerford Mautravers manor, to
Nathaniel Houlton. (fn. 72) The land became part of
Houlton's Seagry estate, was sold in 1785 to Sir
James Tylney-Long, Bt., and descended as part
of the Draycot Cerne estate. (fn. 73) In 1865 the owner,
Henry Wellesley, Earl Cowley, bought a 60-a.
farm at Startley from Mary Birtill, (fn. 74) and in 1870
c. 18 a. at Startley from the Revd. Stephen
Demainbray. (fn. 75) In 1920 Christian, Earl Cowley,
offered c. 88 a. around Startley, including Startley
farm, 32 a., for sale. (fn. 76) Startley farm was owned
in 1988 by Mr. Robert Dickinson. (fn. 77)
In 1066 Alnod held 3 hides and 24 a. that became
the manor of SOMERFORD BOWLES or
SOMERFORD EWYAS. Alfred of Marlborough
held the estate in 1086 (fn. 78) and the overlordship
passed like that of Teffont Evias manor with the
honor of Ewyas to Robert Tregoze (d. 1265), who
held it in 1242–3, (fn. 79) and to his son John Tregoze
(d. 1300). John's grandson, John la Warre (fn. 80) (d.
1347), from 1307 Lord la Warre, was allotted 1
knight's fee in Great Somerford in 1306. The overlordship descended with the title to Roger, Lord
la Warre (d. 1370), and John, Lord la Warre (d.
1398), and was last mentioned in 1370. (fn. 81) The
manor was still considered part of the honor of
Ewyas c. 1500. (fn. 82)
Siward held the estate of Alfred in 1086, (fn. 83) and
Jordan Waters (de aqua) in 1275. (fn. 84) Between 1293
and 1300 it passed from Jordan and his wife Maud
to John of Seagry. (fn. 85) John or a namesake held the
manor in 1306, (fn. 86) and in 1321 John of Seagry and
his wife Joan settled it on themselves and on John's
son Simon. (fn. 87) The manor descended, presumably
like a manor in Seagry, (fn. 88) to Emme Drew, who
held it in 1384 and 1412, and Thomas Drew, who
held it in 1451. (fn. 89) Like that manor it passed to John
Mompesson (d. 1500), John Mompesson (d.
1511), (fn. 90) Edmund Mompesson (d. 1553), (fn. 91) and
Anne Wayte. On Anne's death before 1571 it
passed to her daughter Eleanor (d. 1592), wife
of Richard Browning (d. 1573). Eleanor was succeeded by her son Richard Browning (fn. 92) (d. 1612),
and Richard by his son Anthony (d. 1663). (fn. 93)
Anthony's son Edmund in 1670 sold a farm of
c. 217 a. to William Grinfield and in 1693 sold
other portions of the manor to William Alexander,
Michael Wickes, and Thomas Evans. (fn. 94)
The residue of Somerford Bowles manor,
including the manorial rights and apparently the
land called MANOR farm, was owned in 1751 by
Richard Serle (fn. 95) and afterwards passed to his
nephew Richard Goodenough who sold the farm,
apparently c. 1772 to John Timbrell. In 1774 Timbrell sold it to William Randall (d. 1809), from
whom it passed to his relict Mary, and then to
his son William Randall and grandson William
Randall. (fn. 96) In 1847 the third William Randall
offered the farm, 80 a., for sale: (fn. 97) it may have
been part of the estate of William Beak (d. 1873)
and W. E. Beak 1858–88. (fn. 98) In 1910 and 1927
Manor farm, 120 a., belonged to the representatives of Benjamin Porter, (fn. 99) and 1945–56 to the executors of C. Porter. (fn. 100) It was afterwards sold in
portions. Manor Farm is a timber-framed house
built in the early 17th century. It was encased in
stone and the north end was rebuilt in the 18th
century; in the early 19th century it was extended
southwards and eastwards and given a doublegabled south entrance front.
The farm bought by William Grinfield in 1670
passed to his son Edward (d. 1759). Edward's son
Steddy Grinfield sold it in 1775 to John Pyke (fn. 101)
(will dated 1778), who devised Bridge, later
BROOK, farm to his son John. (fn. 102) The younger John
was succeeded by his brothers William (d. 1794)
and Thomas (d. 1815). Thomas devised the farm
for his children, including Thomas (d. s.p. 1839),
John (d. s.p. 1842), and Henry (d. s.p. 1888).
Henry Pyke devised it in undivided shares to
Joseph, Isaac, and William Hanks and Ann
Belcher, the children of his sister Elizabeth
Hanks. (fn. 103) In 1896 Brook farm, 243 a., was sold
to Sir Henry Meux, Bt. (d. 1900). Meux's relict
Valerie offered the farm, 143 a., for sale in 1906. (fn. 104)
It was owned in 1910 and 1939 by Frederick
Cole, (fn. 105) in 1945–6 by W. G. Greenwood, (fn. 106) 1947–85
by Peter Sturgis, in 1988 by Mr. T. R. Sturgis. (fn. 107)
Brook Farm has a main north—south range with
north and south wings to the east, all of stone
rubble. The oldest part of the house is the south
wing which survives from a 16th-century building:
its roof has re-used smoke-blackened rafters. The
main range and the north wing are 17th-century.
The west elevation was encased in ashlar to make
a symmetrical entrance front for Thomas and
Winifred Pyke in 1803, (fn. 108) and, also in the 19th century, the space between the wings was built over.
BLANCHARDS, the portion of Somerford
Bowles manor bought in 1693 by William Alexander passed with his other land in the parish at
his death in 1724 to his granddaughter Elizabeth
Alexander (d. 1790), wife of John Smith (d. 1765).
It was added to Smith's part of Somerford Mautravers manor. (fn. 109)
In 1695 Michael Wickes conveyed his part of
Somerford Bowles manor, MAYO'S farm, c. 34
a., for charitable purposes in Malmesbury, including St. John's almshouse and the free school. (fn. 110)
The land was sold in 1920. (fn. 111)
GROVE farm, Startley, the part of Somerford
Bowles manor bought in 1693 by Thomas Evans,
was sold in 1720 by his relict Ann Evans to Edward
Yate, who charged it with £15 yearly for a dissenting minister in Malmesbury. Yate devised the farm
to Abraham Sperring, who sold it to Thomas
Hobbes in 1735. Hobbes devised it to his nephew
Giles Bennett, who sold it in 1758 to John Pyke (fn. 112)
(will dated 1778). Pyke devised Grove farm to his
son William (d. 1794) (fn. 113) and it descended like Brook
farm. It was held c. 1900 by Joseph Hanks, (fn. 114) whose
representatives sold the 92-a. farm in 1910 to Wiltshire countv council, (fn. 115) the owner in 1988. (fn. 116)
In 1066 Scirold held an estate of 3½ yardlands
in Great Somerford. Edward of Salisbury held it
in 1086, when a house in Malmesbury was held
with it. (fn. 117) The overlordship of the manor of
SOMERFORD descended in the direct male line
to Walter of Salisbury (d. 1147), Patrick, earl of
Salisbury (d. 1168), and William, earl of Salisbury
(d. 1196), and afterwards passed to Williams
daughter Ela (d. 1261), wife of William Longespee, earl of Salisbury (d. 1226). Although the overlordship was last mentioned in 1242–3, (fn. 118) the manor
was still considered part of the honor of Trowbridge 1653–64. (fn. 119)
Teodric held the estate of Edward in 1086. (fn. 120)
It was held of the countess of Salisbury in 1242–3
by Geoffrey de Sifrewast, (fn. 121) possibly a kinsman of
the Herriard family. (fn. 122)
The manor was held by Kington St. Michael
priory in 1242–3, of Geoffrey de Sifrewast, and
at the Dissolution. (fn. 123) In 1538 the Crown granted
it to Sir Richard Long (fn. 124) (d. 1546), (fn. 125) who in 1544
conveyed it to his brother Robert (d. 1564). Robert
was succeeded by his brother William, (fn. 126) who sold
the manor to John Yew in 1570. (fn. 127) Yew sold it in
1577 to Sir John Thynne (fn. 128) (d. 1580), and it descended in the direct male line to Sir John Thynne (fn. 129)
(d. 1604), Sir Thomas Thynne (fn. 130) (d. 1639), and
Sir James Thynne (fn. 131) (d. s.p. 1670). Sir James was
succeeded in turn by his nephews Thomas Thynne
(d. 1682) and Thomas Thynne, Viscount Weymouth (d. 1714). From Lord Weymouth the
manor passed to his grandnephew Thomas, Viscount Weymouth (d. 1751), and in the direct male
line to Thomas, Viscount Weymouth (cr. marquess of Bath 1789, d. 1796), and Thomas, marquess of Bath (d. 1837), who in 1810 sold the
estate, three houses and 123 a., to John Parsloe
(d. 1849). (fn. 132)
In 1853 Parsloe's trustees offered for sale the
manor and other land owned by Parsloe in the
parish, a total of 223 a. (fn. 133) William Beak (d. 1873) (fn. 134)
was the owner in 1856. (fn. 135) His son W. E. Beak sold
the estate, including Manor House and its 18-a.
park, in portions in 1888. (fn. 136)
The Manor House was built of stone rubble in
the mid 17th century. A long service range was
built on the east side in the later 18th century.
In the early 19th century, apparently for John
Parsloe, (fn. 137) a tall block containing an entrance hall
and staircase was built on the south side of the
17th-century block: it was extended eastwards in
the later 19th. The 17th-century block was
heightened and refronted c. 1900 to match the
early 19th-century extension, and in the early 20th
century a long north-south service range was built
from the south side of the 18th-century range. Fittings of the 18th century were introduced into the
house in the mid 20th century. The late 19th century part of the house was demolished and the
inside of the house rearranged and divided into
two c. 1977. Stables were built north of the house
in the earlier 19th century. To create the park
south of the house in the later 19th century West
Street was diverted to run between the house and
stables, (fn. 138) a lodge was built on the Sutton Benger
road c. 1900, and an avenue was planted across
the park between it and the house.
In 1086 Alwin the priest, Alwi, and Saieva each
held 2½ yardlands, and Edward held ½ hide. (fn. 139) Those
estates were afterwards acquired by Edward of
Salisbury and assigned to his daughter Maud, wife
of Humphrey de Bohun. (fn. 140) The manor of GREAT
SOMERFORD passed like Wilsford manor in
Swanborough hundred to Maud's son Humphrey
de Bohun (fl. 1131 X 1146), grandson Humphrey
de Bohun (d. 1181), and great-grandson Henry
de Bohun (cr. earl of Hereford 1200, d. 1220). (fn. 141)
It afterwards descended with the earldom (fn. 142) and
Humphrey de Bohun (d. 1373) was overlord of
½ and 1/10 knight's fee in Great Somerford. His
daughter Mary, (fn. 143) wife of Henry of Lancaster, earl
of Derby (Henry IV), was assigned ½ knight's fee
in 1384. (fn. 144) No later mention of the overlordship
has been found.
In 1242–3 Reynold of Somerford, probably
Reynold son of William, held 1 knight's fee in
Great Somerford of Humphrey, earl of Hereford. (fn. 145) Richard of Somerford's heirs held ½
knight's fee in 1275. (fn. 146) Great Somerford manor was
held in 1373 by Thomas Drew, (fn. 147) in 1401–2 by
Emme Drew, (fn. 148) and in 1428 by Thomas Drew. (fn. 149)
It passed like a manor in Seagry to Isabel Drew,
wife of John Mompesson (d. 1500). It was held
for life by Agnes Trye (d. 1499), relict of John's
and Isabel's son Drew Mompesson, and after her
death like Somerford Bowles manor by her son
John Mompesson (d. 1511). (fn. 150) The manor was
afterwards held in moieties by Christopher Mompesson and Thomas Mompesson, brothers of John
Mompesson (d. 1511). Christopher's moiety
apparently passed to Thomas, (fn. 151) who held the
entire manor at his death in 1560. The manor
passed to his son Thomas (fn. 152) (d. 1582) and grandson
Thomas Mompesson (d. 1612). (fn. 153)
In 1610 Thomas Mompesson sold land including WEST STREETfarm to Nicholas Barrett (d.
1610), who devised it to his father Hugh in trust
for his brother-in-law William Bayliffe. In 1617
Hugh Barrett and Bayliffe sold the farm to Hugh's
son Richard, who in 1621 sold it to Edward, son
of Nicholas Barrett. Edward sold it in 1627 to John
Wells. The farm was afterwards owned by Henry
Grayle, who in 1654 charged it with £10 yearly
for apprenticing poor children of Malmesbury. In
1687 Grayle's grandson and heir Thomas Davys
sold the farm to William Alexander (fn. 154) (d. 1724),
and it descended to William's granddaughter
Elizabeth Alexander (d. 1790), wife of John Smith
(d. 1765). (fn. 155) West Street farm descended in the
Smith and Birtill families to the representatives
of Mary Anne, relict of Henry Birtill, who sold
the 154-a. farm c. 1910 to Rowland Woolford (fn. 156)
(d. 1935). (fn. 157) The farm was owned in 1965–6 by
C. T. Ll. Palmer (d. 1978), (fn. 158) and in 1988 by Mrs.
C. T. Ll. Palmer. (fn. 159)
West Street Farm was built of stone rubble as
a long east—west range in the 17th century. In the
18th century a new block was built at the north-east
corner. In the 18th century or early 19th the west
end was heightened and the west end of the south
front was encased in ashlar and decorated with
bands of 12th-century chevron ornament, some
medieval roundels, and a shield of arms, possibly
of the Mompesson family. Further alterations were
made and a north wing was built at the west end
in the later 19th century. The house was extensively restored c. 1988.
In 1610 Thomas Mompesson owned a small
estate called CULVERHOUSE place (fn. 160) which was
owned by Robert Jason in 1634 (fn. 161) and, with an
additional 20 a., by Sir Robert Jason in 1673. It
descended with Somerford Mautravers manor to
Sir Richard Hawkins's trustees, (fn. 162) who sold it to
John Pyke c. 1699. From Pyke it descended to
his son Henry (will dated 1764), who devised it
to his son John (will proved 1778). That John
Pyke bought MILLS farm, 20 a., formerly part
of Somerford Mautravers manor, from Mary Leet
in 1767. (fn. 163) Culverhouse place and Mills farm,
together called Home farm c. 1815, descended in
the Pyke family with Brook farm, (fn. 164) were held c.
1900 and in 1910 by Ann Belcher, (fn. 165) and, as Mills
farm, 60 a., by Dee Bros. in 1927. (fn. 166)
Mills Farm was built of stone in the 17th century
as a north-south range of one storey and attics.
It was heightened to two storeys and attics in the
later 18th century and a short wing was built at
the centre of the east elevation. The wing was
extended north in the early 19th century, perhaps
for the school kept in the house, (fn. 167) and again c.
1985. The interior of the house was being altered
and restored in 1989.
Between 1190 and 1290 Bradenstoke priory
acquired by gift and purchase a total of c. 17 a. (fn. 168)
The land passed to the Crown at the Dissolution. (fn. 169)
In 1920 Charles and Ernest Porter bought the
glebe, Downfield farm. (fn. 170) The owner was C. E.
Porter in 1945–6, (fn. 171) A. Ll. Palmer 1955–67, (fn. 172) and
Julian Sturgis in 1988. (fn. 173) Broadfield farm was
formed from several small portions of land in the
1960s by E. F. Porter, the owner in 1988. (fn. 174)
Economic History.
Great Somerford was
unusual for Wiltshire because it had seven estates
in 1086. The estates had 4 hides in demesne on
which were 2 ploughteams and 2 servi, and there
were 3 villani, 12 bordars, 32 coscets, and 2 cottars,
with a total of 5 ploughteams. Two of the estates,
Humphrey Lisle's and Siward's, were assessed
equally and each had 2 hides in demesne with 1
team: on the remaining 1 hide and 24 a. of each
Humphrey had 7 bordars and 16 coscets with 2
teams, and Siward had 3 villani, 2 bordars, and
8 coscets with 2 teams. Humphrey's estate included
pasture 3 furlongs by 1 furlong, Siward's included
woodland 2 furlongs by 1 furlong. Edward's estate
of ½ hide could support ½ ploughteam but, because
he had no tenant, may have been uncultivated.
The seven estates had a total of 33 a. of meadow
and, apart from Humphrey's, a total of 19 a. of
pasture. (fn. 175)
Apart from small pastures in the village it is
likely that in the Middle Ages all Great Somerford's land was in open fields and common
meadows and pastures. The arable was in the
centre of the parish, east, west, and south of the
village. East, West, and South fields were so called
in the later 13th century when the road to Sutton
Benger may have divided East and West. (fn. 176) By the
mid 16th century East field had been divided into
Broad and Down fields. (fn. 177) By 1809 c. 700 a., nearly
half, of the parish had been inclosed: west and
south-west of the village arable had apparently
been inclosed into fields averaging c. 7 a., northwest of the village many of the inclosures, south
of the Rodbourne stream and averaging 2–3 a.,
were much smaller and were presumably of
meadow land. (fn. 178) The main period of inclosure
seems likely to have been the earlier 17th century (fn. 179)
and the farmsteads in West Street and Heath
Farm, Grove Farm, and Goose Green Farm at
Startley may have been built then on newly
inclosed land. (fn. 180) North of the Rodbourne stream
and beside the Avon east and south-east of the
village meadow land remained in common, and
there were common pastures west of Startley called
Startley marsh, c. 120 a., and east of Great Somerford village. All the remaining open field and common meadows and pastures were inclosed in 1809
by Act. (fn. 181)
Somerford Mautravers and Great Somerford
manors are known to have consisted of demesne
and copyhold. In 1622 Great Somerford manor
included demesne of 94 a. and copyholds of 21
a. and 16 a., all presumably with extensive rights
to feed animals in common: the copyholds had
become leaseholds by 1748. (fn. 182) At inclosure in 1809
the rector was allotted land to replace his tithes.
South of Dauntsey Road the rector thereafter
had c. 215 a., most of which were in the farm
called Downfield for which new buildings were
erected c. 1824. He was also allotted 99 a. of Startley marsh which became Marsh farm. Other allotments included 269 a. to William Smith for
Somerford Mautravers manor and 207 a. to
Thomas Pyke, but most were of fewer than 100 a.
each: they seem to have been added to existing
farms rather than used for new ones, and most
of the parish continued to be worked from farmsteads in Great Somerford village. (fn. 183)
In 1867 only a third of the parish was ploughed:
grain, chiefly wheat, was grown on two thirds of
the arable, and root and fodder crops on the
remainder. Of the two thirds of the parish under
pasture, clover and grasses in rotation were grown
on only a small acreage. There were 329 cows,
533 sheep, and 346 pigs on farms based in the
parish. From 1876 to 1956 most of the parish was
grassland. In that time an average of c. 270 a.
was arable, and dairy farming increased at the
expense of both sheep farming and pig keeping.
After 1966 more land was ploughed. In 1985 c.
700 a. were arable, and wheat and barley were
the chief crops. There were only 210 cows. (fn. 184)
Apart from Downfield, 186 a., West Street, 154
a., Brook, 143 a., and Manor, 120 a., the farms
in the parish were of less than 100 a. in 1910,
and some land was worked from outside the parish.
All the farms based at Startley were small. (fn. 185) In
1927 Wiltshire county council owned 142 a. in four
small farms based there, and a co-operative farming society, begun in Great Somerford c. 1911,
owned 70 a. there. Goose Green farm, first named
c. 1907, was then worked with Downfield farm,
a total of 286 a. (fn. 186) In 1988 farms based at Startley
were Goose Green, 60 a., Grove, 142 a., Heath,
65 a., and Startley, 32 a., and in and around Great
Somerford village Broadfield, 140 a., Downfield,
215 a., Brook, 300 a., and West Street, 500 a.
Mixed farming was practised on all except Startley, an arable farm, Goose Green, a pasture farm,
and Grove, a dairy farm. (fn. 187) Broadfield farm,
created in the 1960s, included a chicken farm, a
market garden, and a commercial fishery, and in
1988 a 5-a. lake for trout fishing. (fn. 188) Also in the
1960s a chicken battery farm was established at
Startley to supply the Sutton Benger factory of
Buxted Chicken Ltd. (fn. 189) The only woodland in the
parish was the extension of Seagry wood in the
south-west corner: that woodland, 34 a., was presumably planted soon after the land became part
of the Draycot Cerne estate in 1865. (fn. 190)
John Yew (d. 1588), who bought Somerford
Mautravers manor in 1561 and lived at Great
Somerford, and his son John were Bradford clothiers. (fn. 191) In 1831 most men living in Great Somerford
were farm labourers, and some of the 21 described
as tradesmen may have worked elsewhere. (fn. 192) Members of the Parsloe family were brewers at the Old
Makings by 1848 and until 1865 or later. (fn. 193) A building firm begun by George Martin and specializing
in making ornamental pinewood brickmoulds for
use at Rodbourne brickworks was based at Startley
from the late 19th century: in 1988 it was a general
building firm. (fn. 194) Bowprine Ltd., a firm of building
contractors, was based at the Manor House in
1988.
In 1086 there was a mill on Alfred of Marlborough's estate. Each of five other estates then
included a share in a mill but in what mill or mills
is obscure. (fn. 195) No mill site in the parish is known.
Local Government.
Records of courts,
usually called views of frankpledge with courts of
the manor, and possibly held twice a year, survive
for 1513 and the period 1570–1652 for Kington
priory's and the Thynnes' Somerford manor.
Business included the election of a tithingman, the
repair of tenements, the impounding of straying
animals, and the overstocking of the common pastures. In 1652 the court required a copyholder,
as a condition of admission, to plant fruit trees
and oaks, ashes, or elms yearly until his holding
was restocked, and to kennel for the lord a hound
or a spaniel. Copyholders from Chipping, Little,
or Old Sodbury (Glos.) and from Sevington in
Leigh Delamere owed suit at the court in the
earlier 17th century. Courts were held until 1748
or later. (fn. 196)
The amount spent on poor relief by Great
Somerford was large for a parish of its size. In
1802–3 £302 was spent on continuous outdoor
relief for a third of the inhabitants and on occasional relief for another 21. (fn. 197) In the years
1812–15 an average of £397 was spent on continuous relief for an average of 43 adults and on
occasional relief for 18, (fn. 198) and later the amount
spent varied between £259 in 1816 and £455 in
1830. (fn. 199) Other attempts to help the poor included
the provision of allotment gardens and a poorhouse, (fn. 200) and subsidies to local farmers who
employed paupers in 1822. The vestry assisted
paupers to emigrate to Canada in 1831 (fn. 201) and to
North America in 1849. (fn. 202) The parish was included
in Malmesbury poor-law union in 1835. (fn. 203) It
became part of North Wiltshire district in 1974. (fn. 204)
Church.
A church stood in Great Somerford
in the late 12th century. (fn. 205) The benefice was a rectory, and in 1967 was united with the benefices
of Little Somerford and Seagry. The benefice of
Corston with Rodbourne was added to the united
benefice in 1986. (fn. 206)
Between 1194 and 1198 Richard of Herriard,
apparently lord of Somerford Mautravers manor,
granted the advowson to Kington St. Michael
priory. (fn. 207) The advowson was disputed in 1323–4
by the prioress and John Mautravers (d. 1341),
and in 1334 it was adjudged that it belonged to
Mautravers. (fn. 208) The lords of Somerford Mautravers
manor thereafter presented rectors except in 1405
and 1421 when the king presented during minority (fn. 209) and in 1637 when the king presented because
Sir Robert Jason was in the Fleet prison. Jason's
right to present was unsuccessfully challenged by
Edmund Browning c. 1676. (fn. 210) In 1699 the trustees
of Sir Richard Hawkins sold the advowson to the
rector, Edmund Wayte. In 1702 Wayte sold it to
William Lake, whom the mortgagee presented as
rector in 1702. Lake sold the advowson in 1704
to Robert Reeks, whose son Isaac was presented
that year by the mortgagee. Later in 1704 Robert
Reeks sold it to Richard Hutchins, who in 1708
gave it to Exeter College, Oxford, to provide a
living for a fellow. (fn. 211) In 1967 the college was
assigned the second and fourth of four turns of
presentation, and in 1986 joint presentation at the
first, third, and fifth of five turns. (fn. 212)
In 1291 the church was valued at £6 13s. 4d. (fn. 213)
The rector took all the tithes and in 1341 had ½
yardland and 2 a. of meadow. (fn. 214) The rectory was
worth £13 5s. 8d. in 1535, (fn. 215) £100 in 1650. (fn. 216) The
glebe was c. 55 a. in the 17th century. (fn. 217) At inclosure in 1809 the rector was allotted 302 a. to
replace the tithes, and 22 a. to replace the open
arable and pasture rights of the glebe. In the late
19th century he owned 322 a. in the parish. (fn. 218) The
average income of £347 in the years 1829–31 made
the benefice one of the richer in Malmesbury
deanery. (fn. 219) All the land except 6 a. was sold in
1920. (fn. 220)
The rector had a house in 1341. (fn. 221) A new house,
of stone with two storeys and a cellar, was built
in the early 17th century, and in 1671 had newly
built attics. (fn. 222) It was enlarged in stone to the south-west in the early 19th century and a service wing
and yard were built on the west in 1863–4. (fn. 223) A
new rectory house was built in 1974 and the old
one was sold. (fn. 224)
In 1494 the church contained lights in honour
of St. Catherine, St. Margaret, and St. Nicholas. (fn. 225)
What was presumably a fourth light was endowed
with a cottage and 2½ a., later called St. Mary's
lands. In 1575 St. Mary's lands were bought from
the Crown through agents for the parish. The
income, 6s. 8d. yearly in 1721 and 1828, was used
for church repairs. After 1828 only part of the
income was so used. (fn. 226)
John Cholsey, rector from 1384 to c. 1400, was
also a canon of Wells. (fn. 227) In 1413 a parishioner, John
Fleming, was absolved from a sentence of excommunication imposed for his support of heretics. (fn. 228)
Thomas Arnold, rector 1537–54, was deprived for
his protestant views. (fn. 229) Several later rectors were
pluralists and, from the 17th century to the 19th,
curates either assisted them or served the cure. (fn. 230)
William Lake, rector 1702–4, was also vicar of
Chippenham, rector of Hardenhuish, and a canon
of Salisbury. (fn. 231) Thomas Seale, rector 1728–71, was
also rector of St. Clement's, Jersey, 1734–46. (fn. 232)
From 1728 to 1951 the rectors were either fellows
or graduates of Exeter College. (fn. 233) In 1783 William
Tonkin, rector 1771–98 and a physician, held two
services on Sundays, occasional weekday services,
and administered the sacrament to c. 30 communicants on Christmas day, Easter day, Whit Sunday,
and the Sunday after Michaelmas. (fn. 234) Stephen
Demainbray, rector 1799–1854, was a chaplain to
George III, rector of Long Wittenham (Berks.)
from 1794, and astronomer at the royal observatory, Kew, 1782–1840; (fn. 235) he was an early proponent of village allotments. At Great Somerford he
was usually assisted by curates. (fn. 236) In 1832 the curate lived in the rectorv house and held two services
on Sundays. (fn. 237) Congregations averaging 216
attended the three services on Census Sunday in
1851. (fn. 238) F. H. Manley, rector 1887–1945 and a
canon of Bristol, wrote and published articles on
the history of Great Somerford and other Wiltshire
parishes. (fn. 239) The rectory was held in plurality with
that of Little Somerford 1952–67, (fn. 240) and from 1967
the incumbent of the united benefice lived at Great
Somerford. (fn. 241)
The church of ST. PETER AXD ST. PAUL,
so called in 1494 (fn. 242) and 1763 (fn. 243) but St. Peter's in
1421, (fn. 244) is of ashlar and rubble and consists of a
chancel with north vestry, a nave with north aisle
and south porch, and a west tower. The late 12th century church was completely rebuilt between the
later 14th and earlier 16th century, (fn. 245) although the
nave retains what may be a 12th-century plan. The
aisle, four-bayed arcade, and chancel arch were
built in the later 14th century or earlier 15th. In
the later 15th century the tower was built and the
chancel rebuilt, and in the earlier 16th the south
nave wall was rebuilt and given new windows, the
porch was built, a turret with a square bottom
stage and a semi-octagonal upper stage was built
to enclose a rood stair at the nave's outer south-east
corner, and a stair turret of similar design was
built in the south angle between the nave and
tower. A north gallery was erected in 1826. (fn. 246) The
church was restored in 1865 under the direction
of J. H. Hakewill, (fn. 247) and the porch c. 1903 under
that of Harold Brakspear. (fn. 248) The chancel ceiling
was painted in 1901 to F. C. Eden's designs. (fn. 249)
The royal arms of 1814 hang in the church. (fn. 250)
In 1553 the royal commissioners took 2 oz. of
plate and left a chalice of 7 oz. In 1988 the parish
had a chalice hallmarked for 1743 and a paten hallmarked for 1735. (fn. 251) In 1553 there were four bells,
of which one, cast at Bristol in the 15th century,
survives. The others were replaced by bells cast
in 1634 by T. and W. Wiseman, 1663 by Roger
Purdue, and 1731 by Abraham Rudhall. The bell
of 1663 was recast in 1897 by Llewellins & James
of Bristol. A treble, cast by Mears & Stainbank
using a bell from Holy Trinity church, Bristol,
was added in 1977 and became the second when
another treble, cast by Taylor of Loughborough
from a bell formerly in St. Barnabas's church,
Bristol, was added to the peal in 1984. (fn. 252) The registers survive from 1707. (fn. 253)
Nonconformity.
Quakers, including members of the Sealy family, lived in Great Somerford
1656–1783, (fn. 254) and there were eight nonconformists
in the parish in 1676. (fn. 255) Independents certified
houses at Startley in 1797 and 1817 and at Great
Somerford in 1827 and 1834. (fn. 256) A congregation of
c. 30 Independents attended a chapel in Great
Somerford in 1851, (fn. 257) but later record of it has not
been found. A New Apostolic church was opened
in 1953 but had been closed by 1971. (fn. 258)
A house in Great Somerford certified in 1829 (fn. 259)
was probably for Primitive Methodists. In 1882
Primitive Methodists bought for a chapel the village reading room, (fn. 260) and Methodists held services
in it in 1988.
Primitive Methodists certified a building at
Startley in 1843, (fn. 261) and in 1850–1 an average congregation of 90 attended services held on Sunday
afternoons. (fn. 262) A chapel was built in 1854 and
enlarged in 1860. (fn. 263) In the later 19th century half
the families in Startley were nonconformists, (fn. 264) presumably Primitive Methodists. The chapel was
closed in 1985. (fn. 265)
Education.
In 1808 a few children attended
a school in the parish. (fn. 266) There were two schools
attended by a total of c. 20 children in 1818. The
rector then considered that widespread child
employment and the scattered nature of settlement
made it unlikely that a free day school would be
well attended. (fn. 267) A cottage built in Hollow Street
on St. Mary's land c. 1828 was used as a school. (fn. 268)
A new schoolroom was built on the west in 1853
and extended in 1874: (fn. 269) 40–50 children were
taught there in 1859, (fn. 270) and in 1871 on return day
49 children attended. (fn. 271) Between 1906 and 1938
attendance was highest, at 65, in 1911–14, lowest,
at 39, in 1937–8. (fn. 272) The school was closed, and
the Walter Powell school opened in Dauntsey
Road, in 1982. The new school was attended by
children from Great and Little Somerford, (fn. 273) and
in 1988 there were 77 children on roll. (fn. 274)
A boarding school for c. 26 girls was opened
in the parish in 1819. (fn. 275) It was kept in Mills Farm
from 1841 or earlier to 1899 or later, by Ann
Williams in 1855, by Jane Williams 1859–85, by
the Misses Brown in 1890, and by Mrs. L. Cockey
1895–9. (fn. 276)
Charities for the Poor.
In 1828 the
cottage and 2½ a. called St. Mary's lands (fn. 277) were
declared to be for general charitable purposes
in the parish. That declaration was reiterated
by a Scheme of 1983. A schoolhouse replaced
the cottage c. 1828. Most of the land was sold
c. 1954 and c. 1964. In 1985 investments
produced £2,419, of which £1,000 was given to
the school, £600 to parish youth organizations
and clubs, £ 400 to the church, and £200 to the
Methodist chapel. (fn. 278)
At inclosure in 1809, possibly at the instigation
of the rector Stephen Demainbray, c. 2 a. at Seagry
Heath and c. 6 a. south of Dauntsey Road, called
the free gardens, were given as allotments for
paupers. A poorhouse was built on part of the
Dauntsey Road allotments after 1809. In 1835 it
was converted to two cottages, the rent of which
was paid to the overseers of the poor until 1867
and to Great Somerford school until 1894. From
1896 the cottages and allotments were administered by the parochial church council. There were
49 allotment holders in 1905. (fn. 279) The cottages were
let for c. £40 1954–5 (fn. 280) and sold in 1978. By a
Scheme of 1981 the income was used for general
charitable purposes and in 1986–7, from income
of £3,238, payments of c. £300, c. £180, and £100
were made for, respectively, the upkeep of the free
gardens, the upkeep of the churchyard, and old
people's Christmas parcels. (fn. 281)
From 1967 inhabitants of Great Somerford were
entitled to be admitted to an almshouse in
Dauntsey. (fn. 282)