3. FINSBURY.
(O.S. 6 in. London Sheet K.)
The borough of Finsbury consists of the parishes
of St. James and St. John, Clerkenwell; St. Luke,
Old Street; precinct of the Charterhouse, the
Liberty of Glasshouse Yard, and those parts of
the parishes of St. Sepulchre and St. Botolph,
Aldersgate, without the bounds of the City of
London. The principal monuments are St. John's
church and gatehouse and the Charterhouse.
Parish Church of St John Clerkenwell
Ecclesiastical
(1). Parish Church of St. James, Clerkenwell, was entirely rebuilt between 1788 and 1792;
it stands on the site of the church of the Benedictine
Nunnery of St. Mary founded in the first half of the
12th century and retains from the old building
the following:—
Fittings—Brass: In N. aisle—on N. wall, of
[John Bell, Bishop of Worcester, 1556], mitred figure
in episcopal vestments, head of crozier and feet
of figure missing, modern inscription, brass replaced
in church, 1884. Monuments: In S. chapel—on
E. wall, (1) to William Booth, son of Lord de la
Mere, 1661, plain white marble tablet. In N. aisle
—against N. wall, (2) of [Sir William Weston, Prior
of St. John of Jerusalem, 1540], shrouded and
emaciated figure of stone on slab representing a
rush-mattress, right arm broken, left arm and
parts of feet missing, modern altar-tomb, rest of
monument, including canopy, etc., destroyed. In
S. aisle—against E. wall, (3) to Elizabeth (Drury),
widow of William Cecil, K.G., Lord Burleigh and
Earl of Exeter, 1653–4, rectangular inscription-panel
flanked by achievements with lozenges-of-arms and
surmounted by lozenge-of-arms, supporters, etc.,
above a small cornice, a shield-of-arms; former
altar-tomb, destroyed; on S. wall, (4) to Sir
William Wood, 1691, plain marble tablet with
broken pediment, restored by the Toxophilite
Society, 1791. In N.W. lobby—(5) of Elizabeth
(Holder), wife of Henry Partridge, 1702, scrolled
and draped cartouche, with bust of lady and
cherubs at sides. In S.W. lobby—(6) of Thomas
Crosse, "J.P. to her majesty," large black and
white marble wall-monument with busts of man
and wife, double side pilasters, segmental pediment
and achievement-of-arms, probably early 18th-century; (7) to Henry Penton, 1714, black and
white marble tablet, surmounted by obelisk and
two urns, shield-of-arms on apron. In crypt—at
W. end, (8) said to be of Elizabeth, wife of Sir
Maurice Berkeley, 1585, much defaced effigy of
woman in ruff, etc., head on cushion, legs, etc.,
missing. Plate: includes beadle's staff with silver
head, probably of the 17th century, having a tower
and figures of SS. James and John back to back
and inscriptions showing that staff was repaired in
1722, 1825 and 1849.
Condition—Rebuilt.
(2). Parish Church of St. John, Clerkenwell, stands on the E. side of St. John's Square.
The walls are of rag-stone rubble with dressings
of limestone; the 18th-century work is of brick.
The roofs are covered with slates and lead. The
priory of St. John, Clerkenwell, was founded temp.
King Stephen by Jordain Fitzralph or Brisset, and
Muriel, his wife, as the English headquarters of
the Order of St. John of Jerusalem. The mid 12th-century church consisted of a round nave and an
aisleless presbytery with a crypt under, both of
three bays and probably terminating in an apse.
Not long after the presbytery was enlarged by
removing the apse, adding a bay to the E. and
aisles on the N. and S. sides, the building thus
terminating in a square E. end. This enlargement
was no doubt that consecrated by Heraclius,
Patriarch of Jerusalem in 1185. In 1381 the
church and priory buildings suffered severely at
the hands of Wat Tyler, who burnt the house.
It was probably after this event that the round
nave was cleared away and replaced by a rectangular structure with side aisles and a tower at
the W. end of the N. aisle; the chancel or presbytery was also much repaired and its windows
entirely renewed. Prior Thomas Docwra (1501–
1527) did much building at the house and added
on the S. side of the S. aisle of the chancel a vestry
and chantry-chapel. The priory was suppressed
in 1540, and in 1546 the destruction of the church
began; this was continued by the Protector
Somerset, who is said to have pulled down the
nave and steeple. The chancel served as a private
chapel and for other purposes until the foundation
in 1721 of the new parish of St. John, Clerkenwell,
when the building was re-roofed, re-fronted and
generally repaired for use as the parish church;
it was consecrated in 1723. The church has been
restored at various times in the 19th century, the
crypt cleared out and restored to use. In 1906
buildings abutting on the S. wall were removed
and the remains of Docwra's vestry and chapel
exposed to view.
Parish Church of St John Clerkenwell, Plan of Crypt
The crypt is an extremely interesting example
of two periods of 12th-century work, and the
remains of the round nave are also remarkable.
Architectural Description—The Chancel (61 ft.
by 52¼ ft.) has an 18th-century roof and galleries
supported by a row of columns on each side;
the outer walls on the E. and S., and, perhaps,
partly on the N., belong to the 12th-century
building altered and repaired in the 15th and early
16th centuries; the W. wall is entirely of the 18th
century. The late 12th-century chancel had N. and
S. arcades and aisles, and of these arcades there
remain the bases of the N.E. and S.E. responds and
the six free piers; the N.E. respond was of three
orders with round attached shafts, moulded bases
and square plinths; there was an additional shaft
of slight projection on the S. face; the S. half
of the respond remains to the top of the base-moulding, but only the plinth of the N. half
survives; the first and second free piers on both
N. and S. retain their circular plinths, hollowchamfered at the top; the third pier on each side
consisted of four round shafts divided by as many
keeled shafts; the bases only remain, that on the
N. retaining part of its base-moulding, but that
on the S. much damaged. In the E. wall are
three 15th-century windows with restored tracery
and mullions, but with original moulded and
shafted splays and two-centred rear-arches. The
N.E. angle of the building retains a late 12th-century
vaulting-shaft consisting of three grouped shafts,
the middle one being keeled on the face; in
the S.E. angle only the plinth of a similar shaft
remains. The N. wall has no ancient features with
the possible exception of a blocked window with
moulded and shafted splays and two-centred rear-arch, which may be of the 15th century, but is
covered with plaster and paint. In the S. wall
are three 15th-century windows similar to that just
described, but not blocked and having modern
mullions and tracery. Below the middle window
is a 13th-century doorway, perhaps reset early in
the 16th century; it has chamfered jambs and
two-centred head. Between the windows and
opposite the original piers are traces of the former
existence of vaulting-shafts. Adjoining this wall
on the S. was a vestry of two bays and Prior
Docwra's chapel, also of two bays and both
probably built early in the 16th century. Of the
vestry only a fragment of the E. wall remains,
adjoining the S.E. buttress of the church; in it
are parts of the N. splay of a window. Of the
Docwra chapel there remain parts of two four-centred brick arches in the S. wall of the church,
both blocked, and the western arch, mostly
destroyed. The intermediate buttresses of the
church, both in the vestry and chapel, were
remodelled by Docwra as semi-octagonal piers
with moulded bases; the splayed sides are brought
to the square at a height of some 10 to 12 ft.
above the former floor, by trefoiled and moulded
stops, with spandrels carved with a flower having
the Docwra badge, a globe charged with a
pallet, in place of the corolla; on the eastern
of the two piers this decoration has weathered
away.
The Crypt consists of a central chamber, two
chambers flanking the E. end and two further
chambers on the N. side, further W. The central
chamber (62 ft. by 16¼ ft.) is of five bays (Plate 32),
of which the two eastern are of c. 1180 and the
three western of c. 1140. The eastern bays have a
quadripartite vault of stone with a moulded cross-arch and diagonal ribs springing from responds
consisting of a main keeled shaft and two round
shafts taking the diagonal ribs; all have moulded
bases and capitals and square moulded abaci;
those to the side shafts being set diagonally. The
vaulting shafts in the E. angles are similar to the
side shafts of the responds. The abaci are carried
round the walls as a string-course. The three W.
bays have each a quadripartite vault of stone with
simply moulded ribs and plain cross-arches between
the bays; the responds are of simple rectangular
plan with a second order at the sides to take the
diagonal ribs; the responds have hollow-chamfered
and grooved abaci, continued along the walls as
strings, and chamfered bases standing on a stone
bench. The W. bay has only the springers of the
vault-ribs and is covered by a modern barrel-vault
of brick. The cross-arches and diagonal ribs of
the older work have remains of indented decoration
in plaster. In the E. wall of the crypt is a blocked
window with old splays. The N. and S. walls
of the E. bay have each a two-centred arch of one
chamfered order with imposts continued round
from the string-course. The N. and S. walls of
the three W. bays had each a narrow round-headed window, but of these that in the W. bay
of the S. wall is blocked except for the lower part
of the splays, and that on the N. has been destroyed,
except for the E. splay, by a late doorway, perhaps
of the 16th century, with rebated jambs and
segmental head. The two other windows on the
N. retain parts of their original iron uprights and
cross-bars. In the W. wall is the N. jamb and
splay of a doorway, perhaps of the 15th century.
The wall itself is standing only some 5 ft. high,
the modern closure of the crypt being partly
modern and partly the original E. wall of the
round nave.
The N.E. chamber (Plate 34) or chapel (11¼
ft. by 12½ ft.) has a quadripartite vault and
angle-shafts, all similar to those of the E. part of
the main crypt. In the E. wall is an opening,
retaining the splays of the original window, afterwards converted into a rough doorway. In the
N. wall is an opening, skewed towards the N.E.
and now blocked; it contains three steps descending from N. to S. In the W. wall is a doorway,
perhaps of the 15th century, with a modern
lintel, and over it is a pointed single-light window,
splayed towards the W.; part of the four-centred
door-head remains on the W. side.
The middle chamber on the N. (16½ ft. by 12½ ft.)
is of the same date as the E. chamber and has
the same string-course carried round the walls;
it has a plain pointed barrel-vault of rubble, with
a large patch of brick on the S. side; this vault is
an addition. In the N. wall is a blocked opening,
retaining the E. jamb of an original window; the
head is groined into the vault. In the W. wall
is a modern doorway incorporating on the W. face
part of the S. splay of a 12th-century window.
The W. chamber is of various dates and has
been much altered. The vault of the E. part is
segmental and of rubble, but the rest of the vaulting
is of brick and mostly modern. On the S. wall
near the E. end is part of an original mid 12th-century buttress to the main building; it has a
chamfered plinth and stands on a chamfered offset.
In the N. wall towards the E. end is the E. jamb
and head of a 15th-century doorway, apparently
of a former staircase; on the return is the S.
jamb of a second doorway; the head of the first
is cut into the vault and is four-centred.
The S. chamber (Plate 32) or chapel (35 ft.
by 13½ ft.) is of similar date and detail to the E.
part of the main crypt, but with some details
restored. In the E. wall is a window, all modern
except the splays. In the S. wall are three windows, each of one lancet-light and of two orders
externally; the two western are modern externally.
In the W. wall is a circular drain-hole with the
projecting basin cut away.
The Round Nave (about 65 ft. diam.) has been
destroyed except for the lower part of the eastern
segment, where it adjoined the chancel; this has
a chamfered plinth and there are remains of the
doorway on the N. leading into the crypt. A part
of the curved wall on the S.E. was recovered by
excavation and the line of the foundations is now
marked in the pavement. The round nave must
have had an inner arcade, but of how many bays
this consisted is doubtful. This nave was presumably destroyed in 1381 and was replaced by a
building with side aisles of the normal form; foundations of part of the W. wall of this building
have been discovered. The tower stood at the W.
end of the N. aisle and the set back in the
modern building line probably marks its position.
Fittings—Altar-frontal: (Plate 170) In S. chapel
of crypt—of red velvet, embroidered with
gold, oval panels with figures of St. John the
Evangelist, the Annunciation, St. Clare, and St.
John the Baptist, c. 1530, said to have come
from the Baptistry, Florence. Bracket: In S.
chapel of crypt—on E. wall, semi-polygonal,
13th-century. Glass: In S. aisle—in E. window,
shield-of-arms, (Plate 3) gules a cheveron or
between three combs argent, a chief of the order
of St. John: round it a black-letter inscription,
"Robertus Botyll Pryor Elect. A.D. 1439 Resign.
1469." Monument: In crypt—of Juan Ruyz de
Vergara, Proctor of the Langue of Castile from
1575, alabaster effigy (Plate 35) of man in
armour with cross of St. John on breast-piece,
mantle of the Order thrown back, head bare,
rosary in right hand, left hand broken off, feet on
lion; reclining on left side of feet, sleeping page
in doublet and hose and holding book, monument
formerly in Valladolid cathedral, altar-tomb
modern. Lockers: In N.W. chamber of crypt—
two, one in E. wall, S. of doorway, and one in
N. wall, near E. end, mediaeval. Niche: In S.
aisle—in S. wall, small, with two-centred head,
mediaeval; Picture: In S. aisle—as altar-piece,
painting on canvas of St. John the Baptist,
attributed to Correggio. Plate: includes silver
head of beadle's staff, inscribed, "This staff
and silver head was made at ye charge of ye
inhabitants of ye east liberty of St. John of
Jerusalem." "Anno q. Regni Regis Jacob
Secundi nom. Aug. Primo." Top of head and
figure modern. A parcel-gilt chalice (Plate 36)
with circular bowl enriched at bottom with applied
pear-shaped drops, hexagonal stem with knop
enriched with leaf-ornament and six medallions,
each incised with the head of a saint (one with
cockle-shell on hat, representing St. James the
Great), wide spreading base, concave in section,
and of sexfoiled plan; faces of base in panels
enriched with leaf-ornamented scrolls in repoussé,
with I H S on one face and X P S on another,
both in black-letter, probably southern French
or Spanish, early 16th-century; processional-cross
(Plate 36) with head of embossed silver on a
wooden core, arms of cross with Early Renaissance
ornament, foliated ends and symbols of the
Evangelists and on intersections a Maltese cross
and an Agnus Dei. Below figure of Christ on
front a shield-of-arms a lion with a chief of the
Order of St. John; in corresponding position at
the back the inscription "F. P. Declvys 1527."
Italian. Miscellanea: Built into S. wall, moulded
abacus of large column, late 12th-century. In
the N. crypt is a museum of carved and moulded
stonework of various dates, vault-ribs, capitals,
window-tracery, etc., also wood-work, slip-tiles
and fragments of the chapel or monument of
Prior Docwra with his badge. In the main crypt
is a vault-boss (Plate 33) carved with figures
of a knight and squire, the former holding a
rosary (?), late 14th-century.
Condition—Good.
(3). Bunhill Fields, Nonconformist burial-ground, on the W. side of City Road, contains the
following ancient Monuments: (1) to—— Petkin,
1687, head-stone with skull and cross-bones;
(2) to Hannah (Hewlings), widow of Henry Cromwell (grandson of the Protector), and William and
Anne, their children, early 18th-century table-tomb
with moulded angles; (3) to Mary, wife of William
Limbery, 1713, head-stone with skull and crossbones; (4) to Rev. John Owen, D.D., 1683, plain
table-tomb; (5) to Lieut. Gen. Charles Fleetwood,
1692, table-tomb with enriched pilasters at angles,
cartouche at either end, one with a cherub-head
and skull; (6) to Henry Jay (?), 1684, head-stone
with scrolled top; (7) to Rev. Thomas Goodwin,
D.D., 1679, table-tomb with enriched panels at
sides and ends, marble slab with defaced achievement-of-arms; (8) to Rev. William Jenkyn, M.A.,
1684, plain table-tomb; (9) to Elizabeth Adams,
1714, head-stone with skull and cross-bones;
(10) to Elizabeth French, 1714, and others later,
head-stone with skull and cross-bones.
Secular
(4). St. John's Gate, gatehouse, (Plate 16)
built over St. John's Lane, 70 yards S. of
Clerkenwell Road. The gateway, or middle block,
is of two storeys, and the flanking wings each
of four storeys with cellars. The walls are of
brick with a facing of ragstone, and the roofs
are covered with lead and tiles. It was originally
the southern gateway to the Priory of St. John
of Jerusalem, and was built by Prior Docwra
in 1504. Above the archway is one large room,
and the flanking wings have, on each floor, one
chamber with a staircase-turret at the N. end
and, on the S., a smaller chamber which originally was probably used as a garde-robe. In the
middle of the 17th century the staircase in the
E. wing was remodelled, the walls of the original
circular staircase being cut back and one with
straight flights inserted. Later buildings have
been built against the staircase and garde-robe
turrets on both the N. and S., and the gateway
has been completely restored at various dates
in the 19th century—especially between 1885 and
1893.
Except where otherwise stated, all the dressings
on both the N. and S. elevations are modern.
Clerkenwell, St John's Gateway
The S. Elevation. The side wings are carried up
a little above the central block and all the walls
are finished with a modern embattled parapet.
The archway has a steep four-centred arch of two
continuous hollow-chamfered orders on the outside
and of one plain chamfer on the inside behind the
rebate of the door; the responds are original, and
one old iron staple remains in the W. jamb. Above
the archway are five panels, each with a modern
shield-of-arms, and higher up a completely restored
three-light window. The side wings have each a
modern three-light window on the ground-floor,
and each upper floor has in the S. wall a single-light with a four-centred head.
The N. Elevation is generally similar to the
S. elevation and has a moulded plinth, partly
restored, a modern embattled parapet and a horizontal string course above the central arch carried
across the whole front. The central arch is mainly
original, and is four-centred with two moulded
orders on the outside with responds of two hollowchamfered orders, and on the inside of two continuous hollow-chamfered orders separated by a
deep casement-moulding. Above the archway are
three cinquefoil-headed panels containing the
following shield-of-arms, (a) Docwra, a cheveron
engrailed between three plates, (b) the Order, a cross,
(c) Docwra impaling? D'Aubusson a cross moline,
the whole with a chief of the Order; the shields
are modern, but replace similar pre-existing ones.
Below the string-course is a much weathered
inscription "Ano dni 1504." On the E. side of
the central archway is a modern doorway, and
in the E. wall of the W. staircase-tower is
a doorway with a four-centred head, partly
original; in the spandrels are a shield of the
Order and a defaced shield with a chief of the
Order, probably for Docwra.
The E. Elevation, which faces a yard, retains
portions of its original plinth and parts of the
string-course at the level of the second floor, but
both are much worn; part of the upper wall has
been rebuilt in modern brick.
The Gateway (21½ ft. by 19¾ ft.) has a ribbed
vault with moulded main, intermediate, ridge and
wall-ribs springing in the angles from attached
shafts with moulded capitals; at the intersection
of the ribs are carved bosses, including a central
boss of an Agnus Dei standing on a book with
clasp, two shields-of-arms of the Order, two
shields-of-arms of Docwra and foliage.
Interior: Some of the windows retain their
original splays and internal oak lintels.
East wing—The main room on each floor has now
a modern partition inserted across the N. end.
On the ground-floor, now the library (28 ft. by
14½ ft.), the ceiling is divided into three bays by
moulded cross-beams, and each bay is divided into
panels by moulded secondary beams; the S.W.
corner has been rebuilt. Behind a cupboard in the
E. wall some original brick facing remains, which
is probably part of the back to the 16th-century
fireplace. The ceiling of the first floor is divided
into panels in a similar manner by chamfered
beams and joists. In the N.W. corner is a small
room with a small piece of early 18th-century
panelling. The ceiling of the second floor is
divided into panels by chamfered beams and
joists. In the S. end of the W. wall, opening
into the room over the archway, is an original
doorway with chamfered jambs and four-centred
head. In the E. wall is an early 17th-century
stone fireplace (Plate 33), brought from the
Baptist's Head Inn and inserted here in
1895; it is flanked by tapering Jacobean
pilasters, fluted, shaped and enriched; they support a richly carved frieze with a strapwork
cartouche in the middle carved with a shield of the
arms of Forster impaling Foster, and at the N.
end a crest of a hart and at the S. end a
talbot's head razed and collared; between the
cartouches and the crests are carved branches of
fruit, serpents and foliated spirals. The third floor
has the roof timbers exposed in the ceiling; the
roof is of low pitch and is divided into three bays
by chamfered and cambered tie-beams; the ridge
is chamfered and each bay is divided into panels
by a chamfered purlin and principal rafters; the
ordinary rafters are laid flat. The staircase,
(Plate 33) which was inserted in the middle
of the 17th century, rises in two flights between
each floor; it has a plain handrail, moulded string,
turned balusters and square newel-posts with ballfinials and turned pendants; the steps are mostly
modern, as are most of the ball-finials.
West wing—The ground-floor room, now the
museum (28 ft. by 14½ ft.), has a similar ceiling
to the corresponding room in the E. wing. In the
S. wall is a doorway opening into the former
garde-robe, now a cupboard; part of the original
W. jamb is preserved and in the E. jamb is a small
recess with a pointed head. In the W. wall at
the S. end is an original blocked window with a
four-centred head containing the remains of an
old wrought-iron grate; further N., above the
modern fireplace, is an original three-centred arch
of brick, which probably marks the old fireplaceopening; in the N. end of the wall are the lower
parts of the jambs and the sill of an original
window, now blocked. Preserved in the museum
is the old head of an original doorway brought
from the basement of the W. wing; it is four-centred and has in the spandrels carved shields
of the arms of Docwra and the Order. On the
first floor the ceiling of the main room is divided
in a similar manner to the room below, and has
hollow-chamfered or chamfered ceiling-beams. In
the W. wall the W. jamb of the original doorway
into the garde-robe remains, and in the upper
part retains the old iron staple; the garde-robe
now forms a bay at the W. end of the room. In
the N. wall the doorway opening off the staircase
is original and has chamfered jambs and a four-centred head. On the second floor the ceiling is
divided into three bays by two stop-chamfered
cross-beams and each bay is divided into three
panels by chamfered horizontal beams. The
opening in the S. wall, to the former garde-robe,
retains some original stones of the E. jamb and an
old iron staple. In the N. wall is the original
doorway opening off the staircase; it is similar
to the corresponding doorway in the room below.
The top floor has in the N. wall a similar doorway,
and the roof timbers are exposed in the ceiling in
a similar manner to the corresponding room in
the E. wing. The newel-staircase was originally
of stone to the first floor and wood above. In
1814 the steps to the first floor were replaced by
a staircase of another form, but this has since been
removed, and the steps are now similar to those
above. Between the ground and first floor on the
W. side is a small four-centred light, now blocked,
and between the first and second floors, on the
same side, is a blocked square-headed light; on
the N. side is another blocked opening.
Condition—Good, much restored.
(5). The Charterhouse, remains of Carthusian
Priory, Howard House and Sutton's Hospital,
stands on the N. side of Charterhouse Square.
The walls are partly of rag-stone rubble with
freestone dressings and partly of brick; the roofs
are covered with tiles, slates and lead.
In 1349 a chapel was built on the site, which
is substantially the existing main chapel. In
1371 the Carthusian Priory of the Salutation was
founded by Sir Walter Manny, and the first of
the cells built. Other cells followed, and in
1398 all except five, round the great cloister, were
finished. The remaining buildings, including a
little cloister S.W. of the great cloister, the frater
N. of the little cloister, the chapter-house E. of the
chapel, the outer gatehouse, and various chapels,
were added in the 15th century. Early in the
16th century the little cloister was removed and
the frater perhaps rebuilt, the kitchen being to the
S. of it. The Wash House Court was added at
the same time, partly on the site of the little
cloister, and the inner gateway and boundary walls
on the W. side were built. The lower stage of the
W. tower of the chapel was built in 1512. The
general plan of the priory is known from a drawing
of the water-supply of 15th-century date. From
this there appear to have been twenty-five cells
grouped round the great cloister. The cloister
had alleys on all four sides and in the middle was
an octagonal conduit-house. The general arrangement shown on the accompanying site-plan, differs
in some respects from that shown in the water-supply drawing but these amendments are necessitated by the existing remains on the E. side of
the cloister. Each cell followed the ordinary
Carthusian model, and had a small garden on two
sides of it. On the S. of the cloister stood the
church, with chapels to the N. of it, a central
tower and a nave with further chapels on the S.
side. E. of the church was the chapter-house,
approached from the N. chapel. The priory was
finally suppressed in 1537, the building remaining
in the hands of the Crown until 1545, when it was
granted to Sir Edward, subsequently Lord, North,
who transformed the priory into a mansion. It is
impossible to say how much of his work is now
existing or to differentiate it from the probably
more extensive alterations of his successor, Thomas
Howard, fourth Duke of Norfolk, who acquired the
building in 1565. Either one or the other of these
owners, however, built the great hall S. of the old
frater and added the large court known as the
Master's Court, perhaps on the site of earlier
buildings. During this period most of the great
cloister, with all the cells, was pulled down,
the doorways of the cells being most probably
reused in the new portions of the house. There
were also built at this time two wings, one projecting E. from the Master's Court, and one N.
from the Wash House Court, both of which were
demolished probably late in the 18th century.
In 1571 the long gallery was erected on the site of
the west walk of the great cloister, and incorporated its outer wall; the same date is carved
upon the screen of the great hall. All the chapel
W. of the tower was pulled down about the same
time. The great staircase is mentioned as new in
a document of 1571.
In 1611 the mansion, then known as Howard
House, was sold to Thomas Sutton for £13,000 by
Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk. Sutton, in the
same year, founded here the "Hospital of King
James." The work done at this period was not
extensive, but included the opening out of the north
aisle to the chapel, the erection or rebuilding of
the upper part of the tower, which extended right
across the W. end of the chapel and N. aisle, the
building of the cloister connecting it with the
Master's Court and various smaller alterations,
such as fireplaces, doorways, etc.
Probably late in the 17th century the porch of
the great hall was partly rebuilt. Early in the
19th century the interior of the Master's Court
was refaced in brick on the E., S. and W. sides,
and the northern half of the chapel tower was
demolished. Soon after an outer N. aisle was
added to the chapel and various repairs and
restorations of a minor character have since been
done.
The building has interesting survivals of the
Carthusian priory, and is itself a fine example of
a large 16th-century mansion. The monuments and
other fittings of the chapel, the screen in the great
hall, and various fireplaces, are all noteworthy.
The Outer Gatehouse faces the N. side of Charterhouse Square. The lower part is probably of
rubble, but plastered and painted; on the E. side
is a modern porter's lodge. Above the gate is a
brick house, dated 1716, rising two storeys over
the gate. The S. elevation has a large archway
with moulded jambs and four-centred arch with
a moulded label having modern stops. It is
probably of the 15th century. Above it is an early
18th-century wooden flat hood supported by two
brackets carved with lions holding scrolls. In the
archway is a large oak door of two leaves, each of
five panels with moulded ribs and traceried and
foliated heads. There are also cusped heads below
the middle rail, and in the W. fold is a squareheaded wicket, with a lion's head knocker and a
spy-hole. East of the main arch is a modern
small arch. The N. elevation has a wide open
archway with moulded oak jambs and depressed
four-centred head. The small arch is modern.
The Inner Gateway is of early 16th-century date,
and is of red brick with moulded jambs and four-centred arch of stone, rebated for doors.
The Master's or Inner Court has ranges on all
four sides, and the internal faces on the E., S. and
W. have been covered with a skin of modern
brickwork. The S. Range (Plate 37) was built
c. 1550, and is of two storeys with walls of ragstone rubble. Most of the windows are original,
but thickly painted or plastered, and have three-centred lights in square heads with moulded labels
to the upper windows. In the middle of the range
is an entry or gatehouse with a completely restored
archway in the inner and outer walls of the range;
the outer archway has a band of traceried panelling,
of Gothic design, on the soffit; above the arch
is a sunk panel with a 17th-century achievement
of the Sutton arms and a moulded label. The
parapet, above, rises in a small gable flanked by
the bases of two former pinnacles. At the E. end
of the N. side of the same range is a blocked
doorway with a round arch and plain imposts and
key-block; a similar doorway, formerly external,
is now included in a modern annexe in the S.W.
angle of the court.
The E. Range is of three storeys, of which the
two lower are of rag-stone rubble and of c. 1550,
and the upper a modern addition of brick. The
inner, or W., face has no ancient features except
the window next to the N. doorway; the window
is of mid 16th-century date and of three lights
with rounded heads. The outer, or E., face of the
range (Plate 38) has a projecting chimney-stack of
rubble, and further S. another stack of brick,
probably of early 17th-century date, and resting on
moulded corbelling; below this stack is a blocked
doorway, and there are three blocked 16th-century
windows of stone.
The Charterhouse
The E. and most of the S. range now forms the
Master's House. The entrance-hall has in the N.
windows two glass shields of Sutton's arms and
the date 1614, helm crest and mantling; both
have been slightly repaired. The late 17th or
early 18th-century fireplace has festoons of drapery
and a cartouche in the centre of the frieze, with
a monogram. The other rooms on the ground-floor have no ancient features. On the first floor
the S. range formed the Long Gallery, but has now
been cut up into rooms. The room over the
entrance archway has walls covered with early
17th-century panelling with a fluted frieze, consoles
and a modillioned cornice. In the E. wing the
southernmost room, the small drawing-room,
has in the E. wall a fireplace (Plate 40) with an
enriched eared architrave flanked by carved
pilasters and enriched trusses supporting the entablature or mantel-piece, all of late 17th-century
date. The overmantel is of the 18th century, but
the two pairs of coupled Corinthian columns are
probably early 17th-century material reused. The
large drawing-room, adjoining on the N., has
a fireplace (Plate 40) with a modern marble surround flanked by early 17th-century terminal
Ionic pilasters (male and female) supporting a
moulded cornice enriched with lions' heads and
arabesques. The overmantel has two pairs of
coupled Corinthian columns, standing on pedestals
and supporting a continuous entablature. The
centre has an oval panel containing a painted
portrait on canvas of Sutton, formerly in the overmantel of the small drawing-room. All the other
panels with the frieze are enriched with painted
arabesques. The last room on the N., used as a
museum, has walls lined with Jacobean panelling
with an entablature. On the E. side is the early
17th-century fireplace (Plate 47) flanked by fluted
Ionic pilasters supporting a panelled and fluted
frieze, above which the overmantel has a large
carved panel in high relief with figures of Faith,
Charity and Hope; it is flanked by enriched
diminishing pilasters supporting a fluted frieze
with carved trusses and small modillions. The
three fireplaces last described are all of wood.
The Registrar's House occupies part of the S.
range and extends into the Wash House Court.
The doorway in the entrance to the Master's Court
has a stop-moulded 16th-century frame of oak,
with a four-centred arch in a square head and
carved spandrels. In the hall are two stone doorways, probably reset. There is a little old panelling
and the kitchen has an old hollow-chamfered door-frame.
The N. Range of the Master's Court (Plate 41)
is occupied by the great hall in the middle with
the great staircase E. of it and the butteries and
kitchen W. of it. The walls are of rubble, but
are mainly rendered in cement.
The Great Hall (Plate 44) (49½ ft. by 25¾ ft.)
has a mid 16th-century roof of four bays with
five hammer-beam trusses springing from moulded
stone corbels. Each truss consists of a main
curved principal, moulded where exposed, and
having moulded hammer-beams with curved braces
beneath them and pendants; the wall-plates
have moulded cornices and a second cornice is run
along the ends of the hammer-beams forming
a springing for the plastered elliptical cove which
conceals the main span. This cove is cut up into
panels by moulded ribs. The space between the
hammer-beams has a plastered horizontal soffit
also cut up into panels by moulded ribs. The
spandrels of the trusses and braces below this
soffit are filled in with traceried panelling with
carved flowers. The pendants have moulded
cappings, and are carved with cherub-heads or
foliage. On the ridge is an hexagonal timber
lantern with three-centred lights and a cornice
surmounted by a pinnacle with ogee braces. The
S. wall has two ranges of windows, all entirely
restored externally; the 'oriel' in the E. bay
has five lights on the face and one on each return,
all with double transoms; the lowest light in the
E. return is blocked; the arch opening into the
'oriel' has moulded jambs and four-centred arch
in a square head with foliated spandrels enclosing
blank shields; the soffit has cusped panelling
continued down the jambs; the spandrels on the
outer face have foliage and scrolls, one defaced
and one with the motto "Thynke and Thanke"
in black letter. The two middle bays have each
a five-light window with a traceried four-centred
head. The windows of the upper range have
square heads, and the parapet has a cement cornice
below it; in the middle of the parapet is a square
painted sundial with the Sutton arms and of late
17th or early 18th-century date. The 16th-century
main entrance door from the porch has moulded
jambs and four-centred arch in a square head with
foliated spandrels, each with a blank shield; it is
now all painted. At the N. end of the 'screens'
is a doorway with moulded jambs and four-centred
arch in a square head with sunk spandrels; it is
probably of the 15th century, reused. In the W.
wall are three doorways under a common moulded
string-course, which is stepped up over the central
doorway which has moulded jambs and square head
of the 16th century; the side doorways are
perhaps of the 15th century, reused, and have
moulded jambs and four-centred arches in square
heads with spandrels carved with human figures or
beasts. In the E. wall of the hall is another
doorway, probably also reused, and having moulded
jambs and four-centred arch in a square head with
spandrels carved with Tudor roses and foliage.
In the N. wall is a large fireplace (Plate 45) of
stone, of early 17th-century date. It has heavy
mouldings; the opening is flanked by Ionic diminishing pilasters and the main cornice is enriched
with two straps carved with lions' heads, and, in
the middle, a cartouche carved with a salamander in
flames. Above the cornice is a parapet terminating
in pedestals supporting a cannon, barrel of powder,
shot, etc. Over the middle is a centre-piece flanked
by pilasters and strapwork, and having a voluted
pediment and enclosing a carved achievement of
the Sutton arms. In the 'oriel' are three panels of
stained glass, (a) the quartered coat of Seymour
with the garter, 16th-century; (b) the Sutton arms,
17th-century; (c) a panel of fragments with the
name Christian Richter, 1670; (d) part of a shield
of Katherine of Aragon, &c. In the next window
further W. is an oval panel with the achievement
of Sutton. The E., N. and S. walls are covered
to about half the height of the lower window with
early 17th-century moulded panelling. The carved
oak screen (Plate 42) at the W. end is of five bays
divided by fluted Corinthian columns standing
on panelled pedestals and supporting an enriched
entablature with a frieze ornamented with elaborate strapwork and small cartouches; on these
are the date and initials 1571 T.N. Supporting
the entablature in each bay is a voluted console
carved on the face with a lion's head. The
three middle bays have each an opening with
a carved and enriched semi-circular arch. Above
the entablature the screen is carried up with solid
panelling divided into bays by terminal pilasters,
alternately male and female, resting on pedestals,
and carved brackets, and having on their heads
masses of carved fruit; above them is an enriched
cornice broken out over each figure. The N.
end of this screen appears to have been cut back
and rearranged when the gallery was added
along the N. side of the hall. The gallery
(Plate 43) was probably added early in the 17th
century and consists of eight bays. It is on a
level with that over the screen and has a coved
plaster soffit with moulded ribs. The bays are
divided by carved terminal pilasters, terminating
below in scrolled pendants and supporting tall
square Ionic obelisks enriched with arabesques.
Each bay is sub-divided into three, with similar
terminal pilasters and semi-circular arches having
carved spandrels and keys. The front is close
panelled and has a cornice at top and bottom.
The late 17th-century porch has rusticated angles,
a cornice and a plain parapet surmounted by a
carved achievement of the royal Stuart arms; the
outer entrance has an elliptical arch with a plain
key-stone.
The Buttery adjoins the hall on the W. It has
now no ancient features except a wide archway
in the N. wall, which has jambs and four-centred
arch of three chamfered orders; it is probably
of the 15th or early 16th century.
The Library, probably the former frater, adjoins
the great hall on the N. and is entered from it by
doors in the panelling. The roof has heavy
chamfered beams supported by a row of four
plain round oak columns with moulded capitals.
In the N. wall is an early 17th-century doorway
leading into the cloister gallery. It has plain
stone jambs and semi-circular arch with a carved
key-stone and plain imposts; above it is a moulded
stone over-door of unusual design, the mouldings
running horizontally, and three fluted and enriched
vertical straps; it rests on brackets springing from
the door imposts and having strapwork ornament.
The door is of old battens. In the S. wall is a large
early 17th-century stone fireplace (Plate 45); the
opening is flanked by strapwork pilasters supporting
a Jacobean cornice on which rests a bold openwork
cresting having a pedimented centre-piece with the
arms and crest of Sutton. The walls are covered
to half their height with late 16th and early
17th-century panelling. In the N. wall are three
16th-century windows, each of three transomed
lights in a square head.
The Great Staircase adjoins the great hall on
the E. It has in the E. wall a doorway with
moulded stone jambs and square head. The late
16th-century staircase itself (Plate 53) is in two
broad flights, and has square newels richly
carved with conventional foliage, ribands, trophies
of war and the chase, musical instruments, etc.
The central newel (Plate 43) between the flights
has the Sutton crest inserted and all three are
surmounted by tall square moulded terminals
surmounted by the Sutton crest in cast iron, probably modern. The strings and rail are moulded
and the flat raking balusters are in the form of
terminal pilasters, with grotesque busts, from
which spring keyed and rusticated arches. Newels,
balusters and rail (Plate 43) are repeated against
the walls, but are modern against the S. wall of
the half landing; they are continued across the
top landing, where the floor is masked by a rich
arabesque frieze. The walls below and above the
staircase have a dado of late 17th or early 18th-century panelling. The top landing has one doorway in the E. and two in the W. wall, (Plate 57)
all probably of the 15th century and brought from
monks' cells, now destroyed. All have moulded
jambs and four-centred arches in square heads,
with shields or roses in the spandrels, in two cases
set in quatrefoils. The N. window of the landing
has in each splay a Doric pilaster of oak and an
oak soffit, all richly carved with arabesques and of
16th-century date. The N.W. doorway from the
landing opens into a corridor leading to the terrace
and also to the officers' library, which adjoins on
the W. This room was formerly part of the great
chamber, but was partitioned off in 1784, to which
date probably belong the arms and crest of Sutton
over the fire-place, though they appear to be
earlier.
The Great Chamber, now mainly occupied by the
governor's room, (Plate 46) is of late 16th-century
date and adjoins this library on the W.; it is a
large room with a projecting rectangular bay at
the W. end of the N. side. The flat plaster ceiling
is cut up into panels of geometrical design by
moulded ribs enriched at the intersections with
bosses and flowers. There are ten main square
panels, each with an enriched cartouche surrounded
by the garter and having a ducal coronet; they
enclose (a) gules a lion rampant or, three times;
(b) the Howard arms, three times; (c) Howard arms
with four quarters in all; (d) the Howard crest. The
side panels have the motto "Sola virtus invicta"
in an ornamental border, eight times repeated.
An inscription recording the repair of the ceiling
in 1838 is twice repeated. The panels adjoining
the rectangular panels have rampant lions. The
ceiling of the projecting bay is similar, but on a
lower level, and with more elaborate foliage
ornament; it has the quartered shield of Howard
and, in the side panels, rampant lions. The
doorway in the S. wall has stopped chamfered
jambs and four-centred arch of stone on the S.
face of the wall, with iron hooks for the former
door; on the N. face the doorway is modern.
The fireplace (Plate 47) further E. in the same wall
has moulded jambs and straight-sided four-centred
arch in a square head, all of stone. The hearth
is raised and has an oak curb; the fireplace is
flanked by two pairs of Doric columns, widely
spaced on a pedestal, and between each pair is
a round-headed panel with jewel-key and imposts.
The columns support an entablature, above which
is the overmantel consisting of a tall plinth supporting two pairs of Ionic columns corresponding
to those below and having similar round-headed
panels; the space over the fireplace has a large
oval panel between four other panels. The whole
is finished with a continuous entablature. The
overmantel is elaborately decorated with painted
panels and foliage; in the middle oval panel are
the Stuart royal arms with the initials C.R.; in
the surrounding panels are figures of the Evangelists
and, on the columns, the twelve Apostles; in the
side panels are figures of Peace and Plenty and, in
the base, are paintings of the Annunciation and the
Last Supper, and the initials T. S. of Sutton,
supported by amorini. On the lower panels are
represented Faith, Hope and Charity, a soldier
and Amazon, and the Four Elements. The lower
woodwork is all of Sutton's date, the paintings
being by Rowland Buckett "limner"; the overmantel is of earlier date and of more finished
execution, the arms, etc., being additions. Round
the room at the ceiling level is an enriched entablature with a double fluted frieze and a series of
small carved brackets. On the walls are three
large panels of 17th-century tapestry with figure
subjects. On the N. wall is a decorative tapestry
panel of similar work, probably made up of borders,
and on the W. wall are figures in tapestry
(in two pieces) of ten out of the twelve worthies.
The N. wall and the recess has early 18th-century
panelling. The room is lit by large square-headed,
mullioned and transomed windows in the N. and
W. walls.
The Chapel Cloister (Plates 38, 39) stands to the
W. of the chapel and occupies part of the site of the
former nave. It is of early 17th-century date; the
ground-storey is built of Portland stone; the walls
above are of 18th-century and modern brick. The
outer arcade is of six bays, now glazed, with
rusticated arches, shaped key-stones and plain
imposts. Above the arches is a simple entablature.
The inner wall of the cloister has a wall-arcade
corresponding to the arches just described; in the
fourth bay of this wall is a late 17th or early 18th-century doorway with a round head, plain imposts
and key-block, and a plain pediment.
Brooke Hall, N. of the cloister, has early 18th-century panelling and a moulded cornice. The
fireplace has an eared architrave of stone and an
early 18th-century overmantel in the form of a
large carved panel with a cartouche of the Sutton
arms and crest surrounded by foliage and flowers;
at the sides are carved and scrolled supports. The
Vestibule, W. of the cloister, has a ceiling supported
by two oak columns probably of the 18th century.
In the E. wall is a 16th-century fireplace with
moulded jambs and depressed arch in a square
head. In the N. wall is a window of the same date
and of four lights in a square head with a moulded
label, it was formerly external, but now opens
into the store-room of the Preacher's house. The
first floor is occupied by the Preacher's House.
The inner hall is lined with late 16th and early
17th-century panelling, and there are portions of
panelling elsewhere in the house. The newel
staircase was formerly semi-octagonal and stood
free on the W. side. At the top is a late 16th-century balustrade with turned balusters. There
are several doorways with four-centred heads on
this staircase. In the room over Brooke Hall is
an early 16th-century stone fireplace, and in the
E. wall of the same room are the remains of a
stone doorway, formerly opening into the chapel.
The Chapel. The quire is the original chapel
of 1349, but there is no detail of this date. In
1512 the ground-storey of the West Tower was
built, and the windows of the quire were inserted
and the buttresses added about the same time.
Sutton's executors built the N. arcade, the North
Aisle being formed of two earlier side-chapels, and
built the upper part of the tower to extend also
over the Vestibule. Probably in 1841 the N. half
of the upper part of the tower was removed, the
Outer North Aisle added and other alterations
made, under Edward Blore, Architect.
Architectural Description—The Quire (Plate 49)
(41½ ft. by 20 ft.) has in the E. wall a window of
five plain pointed lights under a segmental-pointed
head and of early 16th-century date, restored in
1841. The lower part of all the lights has been
blocked with brick, probably early in the 17th
century. The E. wall has a chamfered plinth
stopped opposite the end of the N. wall, but
continued along the S. wall. In the N. wall is
a plastered arcade of three bays of 1612–14,
designed by Nicholas Stone. The two columns are
of the Doric order, and the responds have attached
half-columns. The semi-circular arches are of two
orders, the inner square, the outer with a large
quarter-round moulding springing from fluted and
strapped corbels, immediately above the caps of
the columns; the arches have on each side a
shaped key-stone with a carved cartouche of the
Sutton arms and six fluted straps. In the S. wall,
which is divided into three bays by rag-stone
buttresses, are two windows (in the second and
third bays) of early 16th-century date and each of
three pointed lights in a four-centred head. The
mullions are modern, and the lower part of both
windows is blocked with early 17th-century brickwork. Further W. is a 14th-century doorway with
weathered jambs and pointed head, now blocked.
The North Aisle (40 ft. by 15 ft.) is of early 17th-century date, except the E. wall, which is probably
of late 14th-century date. In the E. wall is a
modern window, and below it is a blocked doorway
of 17th-century brick. In the N. wall is a modern
arch to the outer N. aisle. There is no structural
division between the S. aisle and the vestibule
next to it on the W. and in which there are no
ancient features.
The West Tower (Plate 48) is of rubble with most
of the top stage of brick and the S.W. buttress
also of brick. The tower is of three storeys, undivided by external string-courses, and has a
modern parapet. Standing on the existing N. wall,
but formerly in the centre of the tower, is a large
timber cupola of early 17th-century date and of
two stages. The lower stage is square on plan
and has a modillioned cornice; each face has four
openings divided by posts and each having a keyed
semi-circular head; the heads of the two side
openings are lower than those in the middle, and
above each is a round opening with an architrave
moulding and four key-blocks. The upper stage is
octagonal and has a moulded cornice; each face
has a round opening with four key-blocks; above
is an octagonal lead-covered dome terminating in
a finial and weather-vane (see Fittings).
The ground-stage has in the E. wall a moulded
four-centred arch of early 16th-century date; the
responds have attached shafts with moulded
capitals and bases. In the N. wall is a plain four-centred archway, probably modern. In the S.
wall is a window of three three-centred lights in a
square head; it is almost entirely restored. In
the W. wall is an early 17th-century doorway
(Plate 39) with a rusticated semi-circular arch
flanked by Doric pilasters enriched with bands
and straps and supporting a cornice, which is
stopped on either side of a tablet with an inscription to Nicolaus Mann, Master; the tablet
has an enriched cornice with a cherub-head and
is supported by carved consoles. Immediately to
the N. is the turret-staircase, entered on the W. by
a doorway with chamfered jambs and segmental
arch. In the S.W. face of the turret is a squareheaded window. Both are of early 16th-century
date. The ground-stage is covered by a ribbed
vault (Plate 56) of stone with moulded ribs springing from carved angel-corbels with blank shields.
At the intersections are carved bosses—(a) angel
holding a shield, (b) spear and hammer on shield,
(c) two scourges saltirewise on shield, (d) three
nails, (e) two bunches of hyssop saltirewise. Above
the arch in the N. wall is carved the date 1512.
The second stage of the tower has in the S. wall
a modern window of two square-headed lights,
mostly modern; between this window and the
one below is a square stone pierced with a small
circular opening. The third stage has in the
S. wall a 17th-century window of three transomed
lights with a wooden frame. In one wall is a
16th-century fireplace with moulded jambs and
depressed arch.
Projecting S. from the tower there appears to
have been a 15th-century Chapel of St. John the
Evangelist of which parts of the E. wall are
perhaps preserved in the E. boundary wall of
the Chapel Court.
Fittings—Bell: one, by Thomas Bartlett, 1631,
and said to be recast from one of 1428. Communion Table (Plate 43): of oak, with bulging
top-rail enriched with arabesques, swags, cherub-head and cartouches of the Sutton arms; on
thirteen legs in form of Corinthian columns with
carved drums and standing on a continuous plinth,
early 17th-century. Door: In W. doorway of
tower—of oak, nail-studded, probably 16th-century.
Monuments and Floor-slabs—Monuments: In
quire—on W. wall, (1) of John Law, 1614, executor to Thomas Sutton, tablet with painted bust
in oval recess flanked by two female figures and
surmounted by a shaped entablature having an
achievement on the frieze and a broken pediment
with a skull and cherub in the cleft; monument
by Nicholas Stone. In N. aisle—against N. wall
at E. end, (2) of Thomas Sutton, died 1611, tomb,
finished 1615, by Bernard Jansen, sculpture by
Nicholas Stone, large altar-tomb (Plate 50) with
effigy and canopy surmounted by a lofty centrepiece, all in coloured marbles and alabaster. The
altar-tomb is plain and panelled, with a plinth
and cornice. The effigy (Plate 35) is in a long fur-lined cloak with false sleeves; at the neck and
wrists are ruffs; the bearded head rests on a rich
cushion. The canopy is supported on piers with
panels carved with trophies, foliage and fruit,
ribands, etc.; in front and on the outside of the
piers stand Corinthian columns supporting a continuous entablature with a dentilled cornice forming the actual canopy. At the back, behind the
effigy, is a square inscription-slab flanked and
supported by bearded and armed figures (Plate 51);
above, in high relief, are figures Innocence ?
(blowing bubbles), and Time, reclining against a
skull and hour-glass. On the cornice stand four
figures, two of partially draped women, probably
Faith and Hope, and two 'putti,' each with
a spade, and one with a skull at his feet. The
centre-piece above the cornice has a large bas-relief
representing the brethren attending a preaching
in the chapel. Above is a square panel flanked by
Corinthian half-columns and having an achievement of the Sutton arms. On either side stand
female figures of Peace and Plenty, and on the
cornice is a group of Charity with three children
and two seated cherubs blowing trumpets. The
bill of this monument is preserved amongst the
muniments; here the materials are described as
"alabaster, touch, rance and other hard stone."
Round the front of the monument and returned
at the W. end is an iron rail with three standards
having buttresses below the rail and twisted finials
terminated with balls and the Sutton crest. The
rail itself has a series of small bosses, birds, roses,
etc., one with the initials W.S. The 'strikes'
are of the spear variety, two of these alternating
with one of fleur-de-lis form. On S. wall E. of
E. respond, (3) of Francis Beaumont, M.A., Master,
1624, painted tablet (Plate 51) with recess containing a kneeling figure in gown and ruff at a prayer-desk; on both sides are vertical rows of hutches,
eight containing books, one an hour-glass and skull,
and one sphere and cube; above each row is an
entablature with a shield-of-arms, and over the
recess is an achievement-of-arms; on the apron
are two shields and an achievement-of-arms. In
vestibule—(4) to Andrew Tooke, white marble
cartouche with cherub-heads, etc., c. 1700. Floorslabs: In quire—(1) to John Patrick, D.D.,
Preacher, 1695. In vestibule—(2) to James Sidgrave, 1707, "21 years housekeeper of this
Hospital." Panelling: Under tower, late 16th-century panelling as dado. In vestibule, forming
low screen, with carved pierced upper panels,
(Plate 100) plain lower panels, late 17th-century.
Paving: Round founder's tomb, of black and
white marble, 17th-century. Piscina: In E. wall
with moulded jambs and four-centred head with
remains of cusping; damaged s'll and remains of
upper shelf; late 14th-century, much defaced.
Plate: Includes two cups of 1630, the gift of
John Postan, first Chapel Clerk. Pulpit: (Plate 52)
hexagonal, sides panelled and having strapwork
ornament at the angles; frieze of similar ornament
with strapped brackets at the angles supporting
dentilled cornice, moulded stem of double ogee
form with moulded ribs, on a modern post; pulpit
made by Francis Blunt, Thomas Herring and
Jeremy Wincle, 1613. Royal Arms: on screen
at W. end of chapel—Stuart arms, in carved and
painted wood. Screens: At W. end of chapel,
modern, but with royal arms (see above) and two
cartouches of the arms of Sutton fixed on it, 17th-century. At W. end of N. aisle, (Plate 52) but not
in situ; of oak, of three bays divided by posts
having diminishing Corinthian pilasters on the face;
the pilasters have each a long panel carved with
ribands, trophies of arms, musical instruments, etc.
The middle bay has an openwork head carved in
the form of two scrolls, with a cherub-head in the
centre of each, and having in the middle a large
projecting cartouche of the Sutton arms. The side
bays have semi-circular arches with spandrels
carved with strapwork and cherub-heads. Above
these arches is a cornice supporting an 'attic
storey' of five bays divided by narrow diminishing
pilasters richly ornamented. The side bays have
each a round panel in a square panel with four
carved key-blocks. The middle panel is delicately
carved in relief with conventional foliage, etc., and
the remaining two bays have perspective masoned
arches. The three middle bays form a slight
projection. Seating: oak benches with sixteen
carved bench-ends with heads shaped and scrolled;
made by James Ryder, 1613; four other old bench-ends have been altered to take small pedestals with
the Sutton crest in cast iron. Under tower—
benches with turned legs, probably partly early
17th-century. Weather-vane On cupola of tower—
pennon-vane, painted with the Sutton arms and
with greyhound's head at point, carried on ornamental scrolled finial, probably 17th-century.
Miscellanea: In vestibule—on S. wall, in glass
case, fragment consisting of the head of a niche
having a two-centred moulded arch formerly
cusped; with one sunk spandrel remaining and
having a small shield of the Manny arms, or three
cheverons sable; flanking one side, remains of a
buttress; niche of semi-hexagonal plan with
vaulting shafts, and a rich ribbed vault with small
carved bosses. All of Reigate stone, with considerable remains of painted decoration, late
14th-century.
Great Cloister
The Wash House Court (Plates 54–56) adjoins the
Master's Court on the W. The E. range, which
forms the W. range of the Master's Court, is of
rag-stone rubble, but the rest of the building is
mainly of red brick with much rag-stone rubble
on the S. side and a little on both faces of the
W. range. (Plate 55). The building is of two
storeys with attics, and the roofs are tiled. The
whole building, which formed the offices court, is
of early 16th-century date, but the middle of the
W. range appears to have been partly reconstructed
at a later date. The chimney-stacks on the outside
face rest on moulded brick corbelling, but the
shafts are modern. The windows, both inside the
courtyard and in the outer walls, are, where
original, of stone and of one or more four-centred
lights in square heads; there are also some 17th-century windows with solid frames. The courtyard
is entered from the Master's Court by a passage
with a stone doorway at each end, both with four-centred heads. The doorways to the various
offices within the courtyard have chamfered jambs
and four-centred heads of stone. The entrance
passage in the W. range has an outer archway of
stone with a four-centred head and an inner
archway of brick and of similar form with traces
of a square label above it; above the label is a
small niche of brick with a rounded head and a
square label cut back. The inner and outer faces
of the W. range have a certain amount of diapering
in black brick, including several crosses and the
large initials I.H. (Plate 54). These initials are said
to be for John Houghton, prior 1531–35, but the H,
with the crosses, appears to have been reset at a
later date, and the original design was more probably an I.H.S.; immediately below the large
cross is a wide four-centred arch, now blocked; it
possibly contained a dole window. The interior of
the building contains in the E. range, at the N. end,
the kitchen, and, further S., the bake-house, now
disused; it has in the S. wall two wide recesses
with four-centred arches, probably former fireplaces; the rest of the range with all the S. range
forms part of the Registrar's house. The N. range
is mainly occupied by the head-porter's house and
has no ancient features. The W. range is divided
up into various rooms and offices and contains
four original fireplaces, mostly blocked; they have
moulded jambs and four-centred arches in square
heads. The staircase near the N. end has solid
oak treads, and the newel staircase has an original
octagonal newel. Several rooms have old chamfered ceiling-beams and a room on the first floor
has a 17th-century modillioned cornice.
The Great Cloister (about 336 ft. square) is
approximately represented, in area, by the large
square green of the Merchant Taylors' School.
Of the mediaeval buildings considerable stretches
of the outer walls on the E., W. and S. remain.
The cloister was formerly surrounded by twenty-five separate cells with gardens, etc., attached,
but of these only a short length of cross-wall
remains on the E. side, together with remains of
the openings to three cells on the W. and two
on the E. side. The remaining walls on the S.
side are shown on the plan and there is another
length of walling adjoining the S.E. angle of
the cloister. The W. walk (Plates 55, 57) of the
cloister was transformed in 1571 into a gallery
with a terrace above it, but it now only
extends about half the former length of the
cloister. Part of the gallery which contained
portions of a cell was destroyed when the Merchant Taylors' School hall was built. It is now
143 ft. long by 10 ft. wide internally, and the W.
wall is of late 14th-century rubble faced on the
W. side with 16th-century brickwork; the E. wall
is entirely of 16th-century brick, as is the vault
of the gallery. The E. elevation has at the S.
end a doorway with a segmental head and flanked
by plain pilasters supporting a plain pediment.
Further N. are six window-openings with chamfered
jambs and segmental heads of two orders; then
follows a canted bay with a similar window in the
face and four and a half more windows, all similar,
beyond which the gallery has been destroyed.
Between the windows are plain flat pilasters not
carried down to the ground, but having below
each a raised diamond panel; below each window
is a raised rectangular panel. The W. elevation
has near the N. end a door of four chamfered orders,
the inner and third forming four-centred arches and
the other two square heads. It is all of 16th-century brickwork. Further S. are four recesses,
each having a four-centred arch in a square head;
the backs show the rubble walling of the cloister
wall of c. 1400. Between the first and second
recesses is a plain rectangular projecting bay. The
terrace over the gallery is protected by a plain
brick parapet on each side. On the W. face below
the parapet are the words ANNO 1571, with the
letters spaced widely apart. The interior of the
gallery has a plain semi-circular barrel-vault of
brick groined to the window-openings and bays.
The W. wall is of rubble, and near the S. end are
traces of the blocked doorway of cell A. Immediately S. of it is the small square opening
(rebated for a shutter and now blocked) of the
food-hatch. The positions of two more cells, B.
and C., are traceable from portions of their foodhatches still in situ; the doorways have both
been removed, leaving no trace of their presence.
Of the E. wall of the great cloister a short
length is left exposed, some 80 ft. N. of the S.E.
angle. In it are remains of the doorway of cell
V., with moulded jambs and two-centred arch in
a square head; one quatrefoiled spandrel enclosing a shield is left; the doorway is partly buried.
Another doorway (of cell T.) further N. is now
completely buried. Near the N. angle a length of
return wall between cells P. and Q. survives.
Condition—Good.
(6). House, No. 25, on the N. side, of St. John's
Square, is modern, but beneath it is a mediaeval
cellar. It runs N. and S. and was entered from
the W. side. The roof is four-centred and of
squared chalk with a span of about 17 ft. In the
later house are several moulded oak timbers,
evidently brought from the buildings of St. John's
Priory.
Condition—Good.
(7). The New River Head, fittings, in offices of
the Metropolitan Water Board, and reservoirs, on
the N.W. side of Rosebery Avenue, 600 yards
N.N.W. of St. James' church. The Water House
of the New River Company was built in 1693;
this structure was demolished in 1919–20, but
some of the fittings were incorporated in the
modern offices on the same site. The Oak Room
(Plate 58) on the first floor has the original
plaster ceiling, panelling and fireplace from the
old Oak Room. The ceiling (Plate 59) is richly
moulded and modelled, and has a large oval
panel in the middle with a broad surrounding
band, round panels outside it and an outer band
against the walls. The middle panel contains a
painting of the Virtues supporting a portrait-bust
of William III; the surrounding border is of
foliage, fruit and flowers. The inner band has
small panels of landscapes, Neptune, marine
monsters, etc.; between the inner and outer bands
are panels of richly modelled foliage with birds and
round panels enclosing swans, dolphins, and the
arms of Middleton (for Sir Hugh Middleton, founder
of the Company) and Green. The outer band has
small fishing and landscape subjects. The fireplace
has a white veined marble architrave to the opening,
apparently original, with an oak, eared architrave
supported on each side by enriched scrolls. The
large panel to the overmantel bears the royal
achievement of William III and is surrounded by
richly carved work—a group of hanging birds;
a landing-net full of fish, a group of lobsters,
crayfish, etc., a fishing-basket, crabs, etc., also
swags of foliage. On either side of the fireplace is
a fluted Corinthian column of oak, the full height
of the room supporting a small entablature. The
cornice is carried round the room, and has egg and
dart enrichment; the walls are panelled with
raised panels and a dado-rail. The doorways,
windows and recesses have carved acanthus architraves, and over each is a richly carved panel with
pipes, wreaths, wings in lure, cherubs, palm
branches and a bay-wreath, cross bull-rushes and
drapery-swags respectively.
Two other rooms have refixed plaster ceilings,
both with the date 1693 in the angles, and a round
panel in the middle with a walled and towered
city, a hand issuing from a cloud above, and the
motto, "Et plui super unam civitatem."
The round reservoir which formed the terminus
of the New River, has been partly destroyed for
the new offices, but more than half of the old
retaining wall and bank are left behind the building.
To the N. of the round reservoir are three further
reservoirs of irregular form.
On the floor of the round reservoir is now being
rebuilt the conduit-head formerly at Queen's
Square, Bloomsbury, and called the Chimney
Conduit or Devil's Conduit, and one of the two
conduit-heads that formed the source of water
supply to Christ's Hospital. The Chimney Conduit
was demolished in 1911–13 and the stones were
marked for identification. The work is probably
of the 14th century with later alterations. In the
grounds are also a number of ancient oak waterpipes and a number of larger stone pipes.
Condition—Rebuilt.
(8). Headquarters of the Hon. Artillery Company, on the W. side of City Road, immediately
S. of Bunhill Fields. The building was entirely
reconstructed in the 18th century. It contains in
the Long Room a painted achievement of the arms
of the Company, perhaps of the 17th century.
On the staircase is a 'rover-stone,' for long range
archery, from Islington; It is a stone post with
the word "Scarlet" and a cast-iron plate of the
arms of the Company.
Condition—Rebuilt.
(9). The Clerks' Well, in No. 16, Farringdon
Road, 100 yards W.S.W. of St. James', Clerkenwell. The well is of very ancient origin, being
mentioned by Fitzstephen in 1174. It was closed
in and covered with rubbish in 1857, but was again
uncovered in 1924. Excavations then undertaken
revealed a brick-steyned well 4 ft. in diameter and
13½ ft. deep. The well is in a rectangular
enclosure, partly of stone and partly of 16th-century brick, and is approached by stone steps
on the S.E. side. The well and the enclosing walls
on the N.E. and N.W. are still exposed. The N.E.
wall has seven sockets for the ends of timber joists,
perhaps connected with a former windlass or pump.
The N.E. wall is of rubble faced with ashlar and
16th-century brick; it appears to have formed
part of the precinct wall of St. Mary's Priory.
Condition—Good.