16. WESTMINSTER.
(O.S. 6 in. London, Sheet K.)
The city of Westminster comprises eight civil
parishes:—St. Clement Danes; St. Mary le Strand;
St. Paul Covent Garden; St. Martin in the Fields;
St. Anne Soho; St. James Piccadilly; St. George
Hanover Square; St. Margaret and St. John
Westminster; with the liberties of the Rolls and
the Savoy, and the precinct of the college of
Westminster. The principal monuments, apart
from Westminster Abbey (dealt with in a separate
volume), are the palaces of St. Stephen, St. James
and Whitehall, the churches of St. Clement Danes
and St. James Piccadilly, with York Gate and the
monument of Charles I.
Roman
(1). Westminster Abbey Precincts. (a) In digging the foundations of new Canons' houses in
the Abbey garden in 1883, remains of a Roman
"dwelling" were found at a depth of 14 ft.;
they consisted of slabs of concrete flooring, roof
tiles and other rubbish. Arch. Journ., XLII, 274.
(b) Similar remains to those last described are
said to have been discovered also in the cloister.
Arch. Journ., XLII, 274.
(c) In 1878, when digging the grave of Sir
Gilbert Scott, Roman building material was found
under the nave of the Abbey church, said to have
been remains of the pilae of a hypocaust.
(d) A Roman sarcophagus of Oxfordshire oolite
was found in 1869 on the N. side of the Abbey
church; it is now in the chapter-house vestibule.
It measures 7 ft. by 2 ft. 4 in. by 1 ft. 10 in. and
has already been described and illustrated in
London, Vol. I, p. 81a; Arch. Journ, XXVII,
103, 110, 119, 145, 191, 251, 257; Journ. Brit.
Arch. Assoc., XXVI, 61f, 76f, 166; Lond. and
Midd. Arch. Soc. Trans., IV, 61; Proc. Soc.
Antiq. (Ser. 2), IV, 409, 468; V, 85; Corp. Inscr.
Latin. VII, 33.
(2). Strand Lane, E. side, about 80 yards S. of
the Strand, plunge-bath of brick with a round N.
end, 15½ ft. by 6¾ ft. This bath was formerly lined
with modern marble slabs, and has only recently
been stripped; the actual walls and floor, where
they can be tested, are built of red bricks, 9 in. by
4¾ in. by 1¾ in. The bath is fed by a spring which
now enters at the S.E. corner, and there are remains
of the former feed-pipe or overflow in the middle
of the S. end. The date of this bath is at present
uncertain; the bricks are unlike any Roman
bricks yet discovered in this country, but, on the
other hand, they do not resemble in form or
texture the normal bricks of the 17th century,
which seems to be the alternative date.

Church of St Margaret, Westminster.
(3). Old Bond Street. In March, 1894, a stone
culvert with joints of brick, set in cement, was
found, running southwards. Antiquary, XXIX,
244.
(4). Howard Street, Strand. A sarcophagus was
found at the corner of this street in 1741. Soc.
Antiq. MS. Min., IV, 109b.
(5). St. Martin in the Fields. During the excavations for the building of this church, in 1722, "a
Roman brick arch was found with several ducts,
14 ft. underground, and Sir Hans Sloane had a bellshaped glass vase that was found in a stone coffin
among ashes in digging the foundations of the
portico." Gough, Camden, II, 17, 93; Brayley,
Beauties of Engl. and Wales, X, Pt. I, 91; Allen,
Hist. of London, I, 25; Soc. Antiq. MS. Min., I,
151, 170; Arch. Rev., I, 356.
(6). Temple Bar. On the site of the new Law
Courts, in 1871, part of an antefix, in the form of
a lion's mask, was found. Journ. Brit. Arch.
Assoc., XXVII, 522.
(7). Hyde Park. The original Ossulton Stone,
said to have been a Roman "geometric stone,"
formerly stood near the N.E. corner of the Park
on the S. side of Oxford Street; it is marked on
Roque's map as "milestone." The stone was
subsequently dug up and placed against the
Marble Arch, but has now disappeared. Lond.
and Midd. Arch. Soc. Trans., IV, 62.
Ecclesiastical
(8). Parish Church of St. Margaret, Westminster, stands on the N. side of Westminster
Abbey (Plates 149, 152). The walls are of rag-stone,
with Portland and other lime-stone dressings; the
roofs are lead-covered. Nothing now remains of
any structure earlier than the last quarter of the
15th century, when the rebuilding of the existing
church began; the Nave, with its Aisles, were
finished about 1504 according to the churchwardens' accounts. In 1515 the foundation-stone
of the N.W. Tower was laid; the Chancel, with its
Chapels, continuous with the nave, was rebuilt
by Abbot Islip in 1518 and two stones with his
rebus were found in the E. wall; the altars were
hallowed in 1523 and the bells hung in the
tower. In 1532 the rood-loft staircase was built.
The church was restored in 1735–37 and the
three upper stages of the tower were rebuilt
either at that time or later in the same century.
Sometime in the 18th century the E. wall was
taken down and an apse added; in 1778 the
ankar-hold and dark vestry were demolished,
and the existing S. Vestry built on the site. Early
in the 19th century the apse was removed and
the E. wall rebuilt on the old site. The E. and W.
Porches were added late in the 19th century, and
in 1905 the E. wall of the chancel was again rebuilt
about 6 ft. further E.
The church has been too much restored to be of
much architectural interest, but amongst the
fittings the 16th-century glass and the Howard
monument are noteworthy.
Architectural Description.—The Chancel and
Nave are without structural division (139 ft. by
23¾ ft.) and of nine bays, of which the three eastern
form the ritual quire. The E. wall and window are
modern. The N. wall has an arcade of eight bays
with moulded four-centred arches with moulded
labels on the S. side having angel-stops, all modern,
from which rise three grouped shafts, supporting
the roof-principals and having moulded bases and
capitals; the spandrels are filled with cusped
panelling; the columns have each four attached
shafts divided by wave-moulding and have moulded
bases and capitals. The work is very largely
modern restoration, but some stones appear to be
original and many are no doubt only scraped.
The easternmost bay is entirely modern. The S.
wall and arcade is uniform with the N., but E.
of the E. respond is a rectangular opening or
squint with a modern cusped head on each face.
The responds have attached half-columns. The
clearstorey has on each side eight pairs of coupled
windows above the main arches, each window of
two cinquefoiled lights with tracery in a four-centred and segmental-pointed head; all apparently
modern; the easternmost bay has on each side a
modern window. Below them is a moulded string-course mitreing with the labels of the arcade. In
the W. wall is a window, apparently all modern.
Below it is the modern W. doorway.
The North Aisle (18 ft. wide) has, in the E. wall,
a blocked window with a four-centred head, modern
externally but apparently old inside. Below it is a
modern doorway. In the N. wall are seven windows,
each of three cinquefoiled ogee lights with tracery
in a four-centred head, and all modern except the
moulded internal jambs and rear-arches, which are
partly original. The easternmost is entirely blocked,
and the second is blocked on the inside. Further
W. is the blocked doorway of the former stair-turret of the tower; it has moulded jambs and a
four-centred arch formerly in a square head, now
cut away; the eastern half is concealed or cut away
by a modern buttress. Further W. is the late
15th-century N. doorway opening into the tower;
it has moulded jambs with a moulded plinth and
attached shafts with moulded capitals; the moulded
four-centred arch is set in a square head with cusped
panelled spandrels and a moulded label. In the W.
wall is a window similar to those in the N. wall,
but of four lights.
The South Aisle (18 ft. wide) has, in the E. wall,
a modern three-light window, but, internally, there
are traces of the jambs and head of the original
window. Below it is a modern doorway. On the
S. side of the E. respond are traces of the former
existence of a wooden partition or screen against
it. In the S. wall are eight windows all uniform
with those in the N. aisle except the easternmost,
which has different tracery in a two-centred
head; the three easternmost windows have the
lower part blocked (for the adjoining vestries)
and the E. internal reveal of the third window is
stepped out to avoid a blocked doorway; the
similar stepping on the other side E. of the
doorway is modern. Below the easternmost window
is a doorway, apparently all modern. Between
and below the second and third windows is a blocked
doorway with a two-centred arch and a segmental-pointed rear-arch, all much restored; the lower
part is concealed by a monument. It apparently
opened to the rood-loft turret, and high in the wall
above it is another blocked doorway with a four-centred arch and a square rear-arch; both these
doorways have the rebate on the outside of the
wall. Below the third window is a modern blocked
doorway only visible in the vestry. In the W.
wall is a window uniform with that at the W. end
of the N. aisle.
The North Tower (14 ft. square) is of four stages,
with octagonal projecting turrets at the angles and
finished with pinnacles and an embattled parapet.
The ground-stage is of early 16th-century date,
but the rest of the tower was rebuilt in the 18th
century. The ground-stage has, in the N. wall, a
doorway all of the 18th century except the hollowchamfered splays and segmental-pointed rear-arch.
In the S. wall the wall is carried on a moulded
four-centred arch above the N. doorway of the
church; the mouldings are turned-in in ogee form
at the spring. In the E. abutment or respond of
this arch is an 18th-century doorway to the
turret-staircase. In the W. wall is a three-light
window all 18th-century or modern except the
moulded internal splays and four-centred rear-arch.
Round the walls are remains of a stone bench.
Fittings.—Brasses and Indents. Brasses: In
S. aisle—on S. wall, of Thomas Cole, 1597, two
rectangular plates, upper one representing room,
with kneeling figures of man and wife at desk, one
son and two daughters, with shield-of-arms. See
also Monument (21). Indents: In N. aisle—under
organ, (1) of inscription-plate and scroll; (2) of
three figures and inscription-plate. In S. aisle—
on N. wall, E. of arcade, (3) of kneeling figure, four
shields and inscription-plate, early 16th-century;
see also Monument (12). Fonts: In S. aisle—
(1) of white veined marble with circular moulded
bowl and square baluster stem, black marble
moulded base, by Nicholas Stone, and c. 1630.
(2) Now in vault under nave, of white marble
with baluster stem, late 17th or early 18th-century. Glass: In E. window (Plate 153), said
to have been given by the magistrates of Dort
(Netherlands) to Henry VII. It was given by
Henry VIII to Waltham Abbey, and passed thence
to New Hall and afterwards to Copt Hall, Essex.
It was bought by St. Margaret's parish in 1758.
The composition fills the five lights and the tracery
of the window. The tracery-lights contain sun,
moon, Tudor rose and pomegranate and angels with
the instruments of the passion. The northernmost
main light has an armed figure of St. George standing in a Renaissance niche with an ogee head and
putti at the top. Below it another niche with an
elliptical head filled with Gothic tracery and
having a vault in perspective; the side shafts
are of enriched Renaissance character; in it is
a crowned figure (said to be Prince Arthur) with
ermine tippet and ermine-lined robe, kneeling at a
prayer-desk. The southernmost light has two
similar niches, and in the upper one is a crowned
figure of St. Katharine with a sword and book,
and having the broken wheel and the figure of
the Emperor at her feet. In the lower niche is
a crowned figure in rich robes and a pedimental
head-dress (said to be Katharine of Aragon)
kneeling at a desk. The head of this figure
is modern, the original head is leaded into one
of the north windows of Henry VII's Chapel,
Westminster Abbey. The three middle lights
are occupied by the Crucifixion; the central
figure is surrounded by three angels receiving the
blood from the five wounds in four chalices; at
the foot of cross is a kneeling woman; and in the
foreground is the Virgin, two women and St. John.
In the left light is the repentant thief bound to the
cross, with an angel receiving his soul; at foot is a
group of soldiery, three on horseback and one
thrusting his spear into the side of the central
figure. In the right light is the unrepentant thief
with a demon bearing away his soul; below is a
group of soldiery, two on horseback, one with the
hyssop-pole, and one with a banner with a crescent
and stars; also below is a greyhound. The background has mountains, trees, and a walled city.
The foreground has scattered bones and skulls.
The whole has been much restored and repainted.
Image: In S. chapel, in upper doorway of former
gallery, life-size headless figure, made up of parts
of two draped figures, one apparently holding
object in hands, remains of colouring, 15th or
early 16th-century, much damaged. Monuments and Floor-slabs. Monuments: In nave—
on westernmost pier of N. arcade, (1) to Emery
Hill, 1677, white marble enriched cartouche
with shield-of-arms; on N.W. respond, (2) to
Samuel Langford, 1691, black and white marble
shaped tablet with Ionic side-columns and broken
voluted pediment, shield-of-arms; on S.W. respond,
(3) to Laurence Womack, 1685, Bishop of St.
Davids, and Anne, his only daughter, enriched
cartouche with cherub-head and shield-of-arms;
on W. wall, (4) of Dorothy (Stafford), widow of
Sir William Stafford, 1604, tablet (Plate 151) with
arched recess containing painted kneeling figure of
woman at desk; below, figures of three sons and
three daughters; and, above, lozenge-of-arms;
(5) of Blanche Parrye, 1589–90, chief gentlewoman
of the privy chamber, etc., wall-monument with
arched recess containing kneeling figure of woman
at desk; above, lozenge-of-arms. In N. aisle—
on N. wall, (6) to Lady Elizabeth Vincent, 1685,
marble tablet with oval panel and wreath; (7) to
Alexander Tompkyns, 1615, tablet with pediment
and shield-of-arms; (8) of Robert Peter and
Edmund English, with Margaret (Tirell), wife
successively of both, early 17th-century, tablet
with enriched side pilasters and coloured figures of
two men and woman kneeling at desk, two shields-of-arms; (9) of Sir Francis Egioke, 1622, wall-monument (Plate 151) with curtained recess with
kneeling figure in armour, projecting canopy with
achievement-of-arms and allegorical figure; (10)
to Thomas Emmett, 1694, enriched white marble
tablet; (11) of Cornelius Vandan, 1577, freestone
tablet (Plate 151) with round recess containing bust
in uniform of Yeoman of the Guard, strapwork
ornament; (12) recess with moulded jambs and
square head, inner member probably once forming
arch under head, slab at base with indent of small
figure, c. 1500; (13) of James Palmer, B.D.,
1659–60, large tablet (Plate 151) with oval curtained recess, containing bust in skull-cap, etc.,
side pilasters, pediment and shield-of-arms; (14)
of Robert Stewart, 1714, white marble wall-monument, with moulded base, cartouche, cherubs
and medallion with head in relief; (15) of Thomas
Arnwaye [1603], tablet with square recess and
panelled sides with kneeling figures of man and
woman at prayer-desk; (16) to John Bull, 1715,
and Marlborough Tatton, 1714, his grandson,
marble tablet with shield-of-arms; (17) to Margaret
Scott, white marble tablet with scrolled pediment
and urn; (18) to Sir Richard Corbet, 1683, marble
tablet, with broken scrolled pediment and urn;
(19) to Beaupré Nowers, A.M., 1690, enriched
cartouche with shield-of-arms; on S. wall, (20)
to Anne, wife of Gregory Butler, and Thomas her
eldest son, 1668, marble tablet with segmental
pediment; on W. wall, (21) to Susanna, daughter
of Henry Gray, 1654, stone tablet with scrolled
top, brass inscription-plate and brass lozenge-of-arms; (22) to Mrs. Joane Barnet, daughter of
Michael Simnell, 1674, white marble tablet with
record of bequests. In S. aisle—on S. wall, (23) of
Thomas Seymour, 1600, and Esabel (Onley), 1619,
his wife, marble wall-monument (Plate 152) of two
bays with round arches having kneeling figures of
man in armour and woman beneath, Corinthian
side columns supporting entablature and enriched
centre-piece with achievement-of-arms; (24) to
Thomas Bond, 1616; Eilen, his wife, 1628;
Thomas, their son, 1627; and Eilen Butts, their
daughter, 1625; veined marble tablet with
moulded cornice and cherub-heads; (25) to John
Makculloch, 1622, chief physician to James I, alabaster and slate tablet with shield-of-arms; (26) to
Nicholas Dering, 1688–9, and six of his children,
including Jane, wife of James Tooth, 1691, white
marble tablet with drapery, cherub-heads, cartouche-of-arms, etc.; (27) of Marie (Howard), wife,
first of Edward Sutton, Lord Dudley, and secondly
of Richard Montpesson, 1600, marble altar-tomb
and wall-monument (Plate 150); altar-tomb with
panelled front and enriched slab supporting
coloured recumbent effigy of lady in fur-lined cloak,
French cap, etc., lion at feet; arched recess against
wall with panelled pilasters, cornice and enriched
cartouche with shield-of-arms; two more shields-of-arms in spandrels; loose at the E. end of the
aisle, alabaster kneeling figure of man in armour,
said to have formed part of this monument and to
represent Richard Montpesson; (28) to Peter
Newton, 1660, Gentleman Usher of the Black Rod,
etc., enriched marble cartouche with cherub-head
and achievement-of-arms; (29) to William Richard
Wilson, 1708, and Martha, his sister, white marble
tablet with scroll-work, cherub-heads and achievement-of-arms; (30) to Richard Willis, 1640, and
Elizabeth (Gibson), wife of Richard Willis, junior,
1629, and to various children of Richard Willis,
junior, marble and slate tablet with terminal figures,
cornice and cartouche-of-arms; (31) to Elizabeth,
wife of Henry Taylor, 1680, white marble cartouche
with bay-wreath; (32) of Hugh Haughton, 1616,
and Elizabeth, his daughter, 1615, small wall-monument (Plate 151) with arched recess containing kneeling figures of man in armour, wife
and two daughters, side pilasters supporting a
cornice, broken pediment and achievement-of-arms; below, another shield-of-arms; (33) of
Mrs. Mary Brocas, 1654, tablet (Plate 151) with
oval recess and bust of woman, cornice and broken
pediment; (34) to Thomas Flowerdew, 1637, and
William Flowerdew, 1641, marble and slate tablet
with Ionic side pilasters and broken pediment;
(35) to . . ., 1705, enriched marble cartouche
with cherub-heads; (36) to Edward Reynolds,
1623, Clerk of the Privy Seal, etc., and to Owen, his
brother, 1610, marble and slate tablet (Plate 11)
with eared architrave, scroll-work, cornice and
double pediment; below, scroll-work with small
shield-of-arms; (37) to John Mulys, 1615, white
marble tablet with shield-of-arms, erected by grandson; (38) to Thomas Hanbury, A.M., 1685, enriched
cartouche with cherub-head; (39) to Owen Jones,
1634, Auditor to the Treasury, marble and slate
tablet with scroll-work, etc.; on W. wall, (40) to
Thomas Cremer, 1705, and Anne, his sister, 1737,
oval white marble tablet. In churchyard—near
tower, (41) to Alexander Davis, 1665, and Mary
(Dukeson), his wife, 1717, plain table-tomb.
Floor-slabs: In N. aisle—under organ, (1) to
Sir Henry Pond, 1683, and Jane, his wife, 1682–3,
with shield-of-arms; (2) to Mary Arnold, with
shield-of-arms; (3) to John Walter, grocer, 1713,
with shield-of-arms; (4) to Robert I . . . GE,
1708 (?), much worn; (5) obliterated, but c.
1700; (6) to . . . Brown (?), 1700; (7)
to Elias Bayley, Yeoman of the Guard, and
Elizabeth . . . . , 1712–13; (8) obliterated,
but c. 1700; (9) obliterated, 1713. In S. aisle,
(10) to . . . , and Mrs. Judeth Kifford
. . ., c. 1700, fragment only; (11) to
Ann, wife of John Langwith, 1691, also John
Langwith, 1692; (12) to Thomas . . ., c.
1700, with obliterated shield; (13) to Francis
. . ., early 18th-century, with white marble
inlaid lozenge; (14) to John Gregorie, 1675;
(15) to Thomas . . ., c. 1700; (16) to John
Doubigin, 1712; (17) to . . ., widow of
James Bigno[1]d, c. 1700. Plate: (Plate 4) The
plate, unless otherwise described, is of silver-gilt
and includes two large cups of 1551; a silver
paten of 1586; two ewer-shaped flagons of 1583
inscribed and dated 1584 with a later inscription recording the gilding of the same in 1673:
three inscribed cups and two inscribed patens of
1624; all the above pieces are engraved with a
cartouche of the arms of the City of Westminster.
Also two inscribed cups and cover-patens of 1661:
a large stand-paten of 1665 with a cartouche of
the arms of the City of Westminster; an alms-dish
of 1691 with enriched rim and repoussé centre
representing the Last Supper, within a border of
bay-leaves; two stand-patens, two flagons and two
alms-dishes of 1693, all inscribed with the arms of
the City of Westminster and given by "Sarah late
Duchess Dowager of Somerset" in 1694; an
inscribed cup and cover-paten and two inscribed
flagons of 1695; four inscribed patens of 1699
given in 1700; two silver rat-tail spoons of 1707
engraved with I H S in cross formy on handle; an
inscribed churchwardens' loving-cup of 1710, given
by Samuel Peirson, with shaped handle, and lid
engraved with the figure of St. Margaret and a
cartouche-of-arms. There are said to be also seven
brass alms-dishes, one plain, one with inscription,
shield-of-arms, and the date 1644, another with a
heraldic rose, and four of German workmanship
with the following representations in relief—
(a) Adam and Eve, (b) the Annunciation, (c) the
Return of the Spies, (d) St. Sebastian. Royal
Arms: In nave—fixed on modern lobby to W.
door, enriched cartouche of wood gilt, surmounted
by a crown, Stuart arms encircled by the
Garter. Stalls: In chancel—parts of three bench-ends of oak with moulded top edge, also one
bookboard (on N.), all made up with modern
stalls, 15th-century. Miscellanea: Reset in modern
string-course in E. wall (internal), two lengths of
moulded string-course, each with the monogram
I.S. with a foliage sprig—the rebus of John Islip,
Abbot of Westminster, early 16th-century. In S.
aisle on S. wall at E. end, part of a plinth (?)
consisting of seven square cusped panels, each
containing a shield, and part of a trefoiled panel;
at one end is part of the return face, also with a
trefoiled panel, Purbeck-marble, 15th or early
16th-century.

Westminster. The Parish Church of St Anne.
Condition—Good, much restored.
(9). Parish Church of St. Anne, Soho, stands
on the W. side of Dean Street. The parish was
formed in 1678, the church being built shortly
afterwards and consecrated in 1686. It is of
Renaissance style and is rectangular on plan with
a projecting W. tower. The walls are of brick,
and, except the W. wall, are covered with cement;
the quoins are of stone; the roofs are covered with
lead and slates. The West Tower was rebuilt about
1802 and the steeple added in 1806. The church
has been repaired at various times and was in 1866
remodelled and redecorated; the roof has been
extensively repaired owing to its destruction by
dry rot.
Architectural Description—The church consists
of a continuous nave and chancel (82 ft. by 31 ft.)
undivided structurally and terminating at the E.
end in an internal apse and having a gallery at
the W. end, North and South aisles (14½ ft. wide)
with galleries over, and vestibules (14½ ft. by 11 ft.)
at the E. end of each aisle. The E. elevation has
rusticated stone quoins; the central projecting
bay is surmounted by a modillioned cornice and
pediment; the E. window has a semi-circular head
with moulded stone architrave and sill; the wall
below the sill projects and has a moulded plinth;
the walls of the side bays are lower and have
moulded cornices surmounted by balustrades; the
doorway to each vestibule is square-headed, with a
moulded architrave surmounted by a cornice and
pediment carried on plain brackets; above each
doorway is a round-headed window with continuous
architrave and plain sill; the lower part of the
window is blocked by a plain panel. The N. and
S. elevations are similar to one another and each
of six bays with plain plinth, moulded cornice and
plain parapet continued from the E. end; at the
gallery-level is a plain band and above it a range
of six windows uniform with those in the E. wall;
below the band, except in the westernmost bays,
is a range of similar windows with semi-elliptical
heads; in the westernmost bay is a round-headed
doorway, with rusticated jambs and arch flanked
by rusticated pilasters across which the impost
mouldings are carried; the arch has a plain key-block and the doorway is surmounted by a
moulded capping. The two easternmost bays of
the S. wall are covered by modern school buildings
and the two easternmost windows on the N.
are blocked.
The W. elevations of the aisles are generally
similar to the side elevations; the angles have
clasping pilasters with modillions to the cornice
over; there are plain blocked windows with round
heads to the galleries.
Interior—The body of the church is of five bays
separated from the aisles by square piers with
panelled Doric pilasters of wood on each face of
the piers and on the corresponding face of each
respond; they support an entablature surmounted
by the gallery-front which is carried with quadrant
corners across the W. end of the nave on two
Doric columns. Above each pier is an Ionic
column with an engaged column to each respond;
they stand on panelled pedestals formed by projections in the gallery-front and are surmounted
by an enriched entablature with a pulvinated
frieze, the whole being continued across the W. end
of the church and round the apse to the E. window.
The aisles have panelled Doric pilasters separating
the bays and supporting panelled beams under the
gallery; the wall above has plain pilasters with
simple moulded caps. The doorways between the
aisles and the vestibules and the nave and the
tower are square-headed with moulded architraves;
those between the galleries and the staircases are
similar but with a cornice on the staircase side.
Over the body of the church is a semi-circular
barrel-vault of plaster divided into bays by bands
enriched with rosette ornament; each bay has
three square panels with borders of acanthus
enrichment, and in the central panel of the end
and middle bays is a large circular rose of modelled
plaster. Over the apse is a coffered semi-dome,
with enriched borders, and each panel containing
gilt plaster ornament of leaves, scrolls, etc. The
arch between the nave and the apse is divided
into seven panels with raised mouldings and has
moulded and enriched architraves and an enriched
key-block on the E. vertical face; the recess of
the E. window has a modelled plaster architrave
and seven enriched panels on the soffit. Over each
bay of the gallery is a transverse segmental vault
carried on panelled beams and having a panel with
an enriched border and a central flower-ornament.
Fittings—Bell: two; 2nd by James Bartlett,
1691. Chairs: in sacrarium, with richly carved
backs with twisted posts, carved arms, carved
front legs and modern back legs, probably early
18th-century. Communion Rails: of oak with
square panelled standards, carved and twisted
balusters and moulded rail and plinth, late 17th-century. Doors and Door-cases: in E. wall, to
vestibules, each in two leaves with raised panels;
to galleries from E. vestibules, each of two leaves
with six raised and two glazed panels with
moulded architraves and cornice; N. and S.
external door-cases, of wood with carved scroll
brackets and moulded cornice supporting flat roof;
semi-circular-headed fan-light above transom with
radiating and concentric sash-bars, and carved
scroll-work in spandrels; doors below transom in
two leaves, each with inverted segmental head
with carving above of scroll-work and cherubheads; splayed jambs of inner doorway with
panelled linings, early 18th-century, inner lobbies
and doors modern. Font: octagonal and of white
marble, moulded, fluted and reeded bowl, long
octagonal baluster-shaped stem and moulded base,
late 17th-century. Galleries: over N. and S.
aisles and W. end of nave, with plain fronts with
moulded skirting and capping continued from
pedestals of columns; four stairs from vestibules
and aisles with close moulded strings, square
newels, twisted balusters and moulded handrails,
late 17th-century. Monuments and Floor-slabs.
Monuments:—On wall N. of apse, (1) of Diana,
daughter of Charles Farrell, 1686, white marble
tablet with carved foliage, cherub-heads and
scrolls; above cornice a female bust between two
flaming urns; cartouche with lozenge-of-arms on
base; (2) of Grace, daughter of Henry Pierrepont,
Marquis of Dorchester, 1703, white marble wall-monument with draped standing figure on convex
shaped pedestal flanked by putti and twisted
composite columns supporting entablature with
pediment, urns and hour-glass; above figure,
drapery and cherubs and on apron lozenge-of-arms;
(3) of Grace, wife of Hender Maddsworth, Governor
of Jamaica, 1687, white marble tablet with flanking
Corinthian columns surmounted by entablatures
and carved female bust between two flaming urns;
carved cartouche with shield-of-arms on apron. On
S. wall, (4) to Thomas Aoze [Agar], 1687, Surveyor-General of all the woods on the S. side of the
Trent, white marble tablet with curved pediment,
cherub-heads, etc. In nave—on first pier of N.
arcade, (5) to Peter Smith, 1700, and Mary Elders,
1701, Francis Ball, 1705, and Rachel Dongworth,
1735, widow of Peter Smith, white marble and
slate tablet flanked by fluted pilasters supporting
cornice and broken pediment and flaming urn;
in lower part, achievement-of-arms. Floor-slabs:
said to be beneath mosaic pavement, in aisles,
(1) to Mrs. Diana Farrell, 1686; (2) to Elizabeth,
daughter of John Pyncomb, 1706. Panelling:
round church in three heights to underside of
gallery with simple moulded panels. In gallery,
panelled dado, late 17th-century. Pulpit: square
with splayed angles and raised panels with carved
borders on each face, enriched capping and carved
base carried by square columns with panelled
sides, moulded cap and base, early 18th-century.
Seating: formed from old pews cut down, backs
and ends with raised panels in two heights, late
17th-century. Pews in N. and S. galleries, plain.
Stalls, etc., to quire, modern but incorporating
band of carving on front, late 17th-century.
Prayer-desk, on N. side of sacrarium, partly made
up with old material including moulded panel with
cherub-heads and swags, carved and twisted
balusters, etc., late 17th-century.

Westminster. The Parish Church of St Clement Danes.
Condition—Good.
(10). Parish Church of St. Clement Danes,
stands in the middle of the Strand opposite the
S.E. end of Aldwych. It is in the Renaissance
style with a West tower; the walls are of Portland
stone and the roofs are covered with lead. It was
finished in 1682 from the designs of Sir Christopher
Wren, who incorporated the lower stages of the
15th-century W. tower, the top of which was
removed and replaced by the present spire by
James Gibbs in 1719.
Architectural Description—The church consists
of a chancel (17 ft. by 23 ft.) with an apsidal E. end,
a nave (73 ft. by 40 ft.) with a curved E. end and
galleried aisles (11½ ft. wide), and a West tower (12 ft.
by 11 ft.) with N. and S. vestibules (14½ ft. square).
The Elevations (Plate 156) of the main building E.
of the tower and vestibules have a continuous
plinth, a string at the gallery level, moulded cornice
and plain parapet, except on the S., where it is
panelled and with moulded capping. The windows
are symmetrically spaced in two tiers, the upper
lighting the galleries, the lower the aisles. The
E. end of the chancel projects slightly in a square
bay against which the lower members of the main
cornice are returned and carried on scrolled
brackets and the upper members continued round
in a curved pediment. In the lower part of the
bay is a large recessed panel; the plinth is moulded
and at the level of the string is a moulded cornice.
In the upper part of this bay is a semi-circularheaded window with moulded architrave and
cherub-head keystone and in the pediment above
are carved festoons and swags; above the parapet
is a cartouche carved with the anchor of St. Clement,
palm-leaves and cherub-head. The windows on
either side of the E. window are square-headed and
flanked by half pilasters with moulded bases and
carved caps supporting a moulded architrave;
below the sill is a raised panel and the whole is
enclosed within a moulded and eared architrave
with semi-circular head and keystone; the S.E.
window has a carved cherub-head keystone, swags
and festoons in the spandrels and laurel-wreath in
the tympanum. The lower windows on either side
of the central bay are segmental-headed and have
moulded architraves with plain key-blocks and
plain sills. The N. and S. elevations are generally
similar, but on the latter, which originally faced
the main thoroughfare, the detail is more elaborate.
The upper windows have semi-circular heads and
are similar to the S.E. window of the chancel, but
the small inner pilasters with the tympanum above
are omitted. The lower windows are uniform
with the corresponding windows to the apse. In
the westernmost bay on the S. elevation is a squareheaded doorway with moulded architrave and
cornice and pulvinated frieze, and in the corresponding bay on the N. side is a round-headed
doorway with moulded architrave and keystone
carved with an anchor and the letters S.C.; it is
flanked by projecting rusticated blocks with
moulded bases and surmounted by a triangular
pediment. On the N. elevation, below the easternmost window of the lower range, is a blocked
doorway. The architrave of the window is carried
down enclosing a recess with three-quarter Doric
columns supporting an architrave. The W. vestibules stop below the level of the main cornice with
a small cornice and blocking course, and are
surmounted by small lead domes terminating in
stone finials. The vestibules are divided into two
stages by a cornice continuous with the string-course of the main walls. The lower windows in
the side walls are uniform with those in the main
front; and the upper windows are circular; each
vestibule has on the W. front a segmental-headed
doorway with eared architrave and scrolled keystone, plain frieze and moulded cornice supported
on either side by plain brackets. The return W.
walls of the main building have plain pilasters at
the angles and are carried up in shaped half-gables
to the W. tower, each containing a circular window.
The West Tower is of five stages and is surmounted by the stone steeple of later date; the
walls of the mediaeval tower have been entirely
recased. The western angle-buttresses are in three
stages surmounted by obelisks at the level of the
third stage of the tower. On the W. front, between
the buttresses, is a projecting porch with a round-headed doorway having moulded architrave and
archivolt, scroll keystone and plain imposts and
bases; it is flanked by rusticated masonry on which
are imposed Doric pilasters and is surmounted by
an entablature with pulvinated frieze and moulded
cornice, above which is a pedestal flanked by scroll
brackets carried back as a roof over the porch;
on the pedestal is the date 1820, and above a
carved and fluted vase. The second stage has in
the W. wall a window of semi-Gothic character
and of two pointed lights under a round arch with
a moulded label. The third stage has in the W.
wall a circular window, and on the S. wall a sundial
on a square tablet flanked by scrolls supporting a
pulvinated frieze and narrow cornice with broken
pediment and a cartouche carved with the anchor
and initials of St. Clement; below the tablet are
three scrolled consoles and carved swags. The
fourth stage has in each wall a two-light window
generally similar to those in the second stage, but
with plain architraves terminating on the S. and
E. in carved scrolls. At the level of the fifth stage
is a modillioned cornice. The fifth stage has a
modillioned cornice and is divided into two unequal
heights by a narrower cornice. In each wall of
the lower is a clock-dial on a square panel flanked
by scrolls; the upper stage has in each wall a
round-headed louvred opening with moulded and
rusticated architrave.
Interior (Plates 154, 155)—The walls and ceilings
are all plastered. Above the main window of the
apse is a moulded arch with a cartouche in place
of key-block; between the windows are Corinthian
pilasters supporting an architrave. The two piers
on the W. wall of the nave support a semi-circular
arch rising to the ceiling; the soffit, tympanum,
and piers above the imposts have enriched plaster
panels, as have also the upper part of the walls
on either side. The body of the church is in
seven bays; the easternmost is occupied by the
W. end of the chancel. The arcades are in two
stages; the lower have square piers with a panelled
Doric pilaster on each face supporting a continuous
entablature and a panelled gallery-front; the
upper arcade has Corinthian columns supporting
square architrave-blocks from which springs the
barrel-vaulted ceiling. The semi-dome over the
apse is divided into diagonal panels, each with a
rose ornament. Over the W. end of the chancel
is a semi-circular barrel-vault with three enriched
panels. The ceiling over the easternmost bay of
the nave is in one panel with an enriched leaf
border containing an achievement of the royal
arms of the Stuarts, surrounded by roses, thistles,
leaves, etc., with a draped tablet supported by
cherubs, and inscribed, "Dr Gregory Hascard,
Rector, Thomas Cox and William Thompson,
Churchwardens, Ao. Dom. MDCLXXXI." Above
the chancel-arch and the arches of the main arcade
are cartouches, two with an anchor and the letters
C.D.; the spaces on either side are filled with
swags and festoons hanging from cherub-heads;
the soffits of the arches to the main arcades have
enriched guilloche ornament. The five westernmost bays of the main ceiling are each divided into
five enriched panels, two filled with leaf scrolls.
Each bay of the gallery over the aisles has an
enriched groined vault and the bays are divided
by arches with enriched soffits. Over the gallery
staircases are domes with central flower-ornaments,
enriched cornices and leaves and scroll-work in the
spandrels. The interior of the tower is of finely
faced stone ashlar work. The ground-stage has
in the N., S. and E. walls a semi-circular-headed
opening with attached Doric columns on the
jambs supporting an inner and moulded arch with
a plain keystone; the columns are without bases.
The opening in the E. wall is flanked by two
panelled Doric pilasters supporting a cornice, all
in cement, and in the W. wall is a plain round-headed doorway. In the second stage are two
doorways with four-centred heads, but they appear
to be late 17th-century work. The belfry has an
internal stone dome to carry the steeple.
Fittings—Altar: modern but surmounted by
moulded slab of rough mottled marble of uncertain
date, said to have been brought from Italy and
of pre-Reformation date. Bells: ten and sanctus,
1st and 2nd modern, the 5th recast, 3rd, 4th, 6th
to 10th by William and Philip Wightman, 1693;
Sanctus by Robert Mot, 1588. Brasses: On wall
of N. staircase, (1) to Elizabeth (Benskin), wife of
Thomas Brown, 1705; (2) name and date obliterated. Chest: In N. gallery—heavily bound with
iron, small hutch door in front with ornamental
handle, 16th-century. Doors: In N. doorway,
semi-circular-headed and in two leaves, each with
four raised panels and mouldings. In S. doorway
and in W. doorways of vestibules, similar to N.
door, but with segmental heads and each leaf
of five panels. In tower, opening into vestibules,
each of three panels, upper glazed, lower raised. In
galleries at W. end, each with four-panelled leaves,
all late 17th-century. Fonts and Cover. Fonts:
(1) of white marble, octagonal, with shallow bowl
having upper part moulded and lower part reeded,
baluster-shaped stem and moulded base, late 17th-century; (2) at the end of the N. aisle is another
font with octagonal bowl, moulded and foliated
and a square baluster-shaped stem, probably early
18th-century. Font-cover: of font (1), of oak,
varnished, in two stages with fluted dome; lower
stage octagonal with small pedestals supporting
diminutive vases at angles, upper part circular
and of cavetto section with moulded cornices, small
carved consoles and small vases at base of dome,
late 17th-century. Galleries: Over aisles and W.
bay of nave, with bolection-moulded panelled front
incorporating plinths to columns of upper arcade,
and surmounting entablature of lower arcade;
central projection over W. end of nave with
quadrant angles supported on two Doric columns
and with brass rail above book-rest and seven
standards terminating in crowns; underside of
gallery plastered with half-saucer domes opposite
each window of aisle. The staircases up to the
galleries have continuous moulded strings, moulded
handrails, turned balusters and square newels.
Monuments and Floor-slabs. Monuments: On
wall of N. staircase, (1) to Samuel Tatham, 1691,
tablet with moulded frame, segmental pediment
and apron with blank shield; at head of stair,
(2) to Sir Edward Leche, [1652], carved and
draped tablet. In gallery—on S. wall, (3) to
Richard Dukeson, D.D., 1678, and Ann (Hickman),
his wife, 1670, tablet flanked by pilasters and
elongated scrolls surmounted by cornice and
broken pediment; apron below carved with open
book, scrolls and cherub-heads, on pediment two
cherubs supporting achievement-of-arms. Floorslabs: In S. aisle, (1) to John Mason, 1710–11, and
others; (2) to Jane C...., date and shield-of-arms
obliterated. Organ (Plate 155): Over W. gallery, by
Bernard Schmidt, 1690, with modern additions and
alterations; central portion in three divisions with
four towers of pipes, the two middle carried on
cherub-head corbels, the side on corbels of carved
acanthus-leaves connected by band of carving with
continuous cornice; towers surmounted by pierced
carving and semi-circular entablature with flaming
urns; middle towers taller than side ones; connecting panels of pipes in two heights with bands
of pierced carving; upper band to side divisions
ramped up to middle towers and surmounted by
carved palm leaves; above middle division
elliptical panel charged with an anchor and surmounted by royal monogram G. R., and crown.
Modern enlargement by addition of one bay on
either side with towers possibly incorporating old
work. Casing to lower part of organ probably
reused panelling from upper part of gallery.
Panelling: Of oak, on either side of reredos, in
four heights with carved scrolls abutting against
reredos and flanked by Doric pilasters with entablature uniform with those supporting galleries.
Behind and on either side of the quire-stalls.
To walls of aisles, in three heights, the two
upper and the panels in the window jambs
with bolection mouldings; plain boarding below
level of former seats. In gallery, to walls and
window recesses, dado in three heights with
raised panels and mouldings. To backs of churchwardens' pews, on W. side, in five heights. To
walls of staircases, panelled dado. In second
stage of tower, a few portions, all late 17th-century.
Paving: In chancel, centre of nave and round
font, of black and white marble squares set
diagonally. Plate: includes two cups, a paten
and flagon of 1652, a cup of 1656, a paten of 1657,
a cup of 1669, a flagon of 1672, a paten of 1684,
a large and a smaller paten and two flagons of
1685, and a small hexagonal chalice and paten of
foreign character of 1694. Also a seal-top spoon
of 1609, a rat-rail spoon of 1684 engraved with
an anchor and initials S.C.D., a tobacco-box of
elliptical shape of 1680, and two silver-mounted
boxwood hammers engraved with the names of
successive parish officers, faces carved with crowned
Tudor rose, and anchor and the letters E.R., one
dated 1577 the other 1598. Pulpit: (Plate 5)
of oak, hexagonal, with richly carved and moulded
capping and base, panelled pilasters at angles
enriched with carved festoon and fruit swag, circular
panel on each face enriched by border of foliage
with cherub-heads and fruit swags above and carved
wreaths and acanthus leaf below; above capping,
shelf with enriched edge supported by acanthus
leaves at angles; pulpit stands on six-sided post
with scroll brackets connected by festoons of
leaves and flowers; all carving in high relief;
circular panels on sides of pulpit originally inlaid
now filled with carved modern heads; stairs in
one flight up to a landing of oval form with moulded
string, square newels and enriched handrail and
balusters, late 17th-century. Reredos: In three
bays with coupled and fluted Corinthian columns
to middle bay and pilasters to side bays standing
on panelled pedestals and supporting enriched
entablature; architrave ramped up to shouldered
segmental head over middle bay and cornice,
with panelled soffit. In middle bay two round-headed panels with cherub-heads in spandrels,
carved pelican above; modern carving in panels;
dado panelled with moulded shelf above of
modern or made up work. Side bays each
of three panels, upper and lower with carved
swags, wreaths, wheat-ears, etc., in high relief, late
17th-century, middle originally occupied respectively with Lord's Prayer and Creed, now filled
with modern stained glass. Royal Arms: see description of ceiling under Interior p. 107b. Screen:
under gallery—of bolection-moulded panelling on
W. side. Seating: In nave—to churchwardens'
pews, four frieze panels of wrought-iron scroll-work,
backs modern. Gallery pews of simple character
with raised panels. Stalls: Modern, but incorporating some old work, probably from doors of old
pews; in fronts of reading-stalls large pierced panel,
late 17th-century. Miscellanea: Small rosewood
box (20 in. by 6 in. by 6 in.) with brass plate on
lid inscribed "... for all the wrightings that
doe belong to the poore of the Parish of St. Clement
Danes," and dated 1660. In N. gallery—stone
tablet commemorating completion of church in
1684, cherubs supporting anchor at top.

Westminster. The Parish Church of St James.
Condition—Good.
(11). Parish Church of St. James (Plate 159)
stands on the S. side of Piccadilly, 180 yards S.W.
of Piccadilly Circus. It is in the Renaissance style
with a West Tower; the walls are of brick with
dressings of Portland stone; the roofs are covered
with slates and lead. It was built from the designs of Sir Christopher Wren and consecrated in
1684. The principal vestry was added c. 1690
and the spire in the latter half of the 18th century.
In 1856 the original staircases were removed, the
N. and S. vestibules added at the W. end of the
church, and the original S. doorway in the centre
of the S. wall was removed and a window inserted
in its place. A small additional vestry was built
at the E. end in 1884.
Among the fittings the font, the organ-case and
reredos, with carving by Grinling Gibbons, are
exceptionally fine examples of their period.
Architectural Description—The church consists
of a Chancel and Nave (87½ ft. by 36½ ft.), structurally undivided, with a gallery at the W. end,
N. and S. aisles (12½ ft. wide) with galleries over,
and a square West Tower (15 ft. square) with the
angles cut off internally.
Elevations.—A dentilled stone cornice is carried
round the top of the walls of the main structure,
except in the central bay at the E. end; this bay
has a plain gable, across the foot of which a plain
stone string-course continues the line of the
cornice. The quoins are rusticated.
E. Elevation.—The main wall is divided into
three bays, of which the central bay slightly
projects. In this bay is a window of three lights
and of two stages divided by a heavy stone cornice,
frieze and architrave which are carried by a
Corinthian pilaster in each jamb and by two
Corinthian columns forming mullions; the upper
stage has a dentilled cornice carried by Composite
pilasters and columns, but interrupted over the
central light, which has a moulded semi-circular
head springing from the entablature on each side.
In the end wall of each of the aisles is a dummy
round window.
N. Elevation—has nine windows arranged in
two stages divided by a plain stone string-course;
this string-course is carried entirely round the
main structure and the tower. The five windows
in the upper stage have moulded and eared architraves, and semi-circular heads with large keystones, all moulded except that of the central
window, which is carved with a cherub-head.
Beneath the four westernmost of these upper
windows are the four smaller windows of the lower
stage. These have moulded and eared architraves
and segmental heads with large plain keystones.
At the W. end, against the tower, is the modern
N. vestibule and entrance. The principal vestry
of c. 1690 covers the E. end below the first upper
window and is returned for a short distance round
the E. end of the church. On the W. side it has
two windows and a doorway, all with semi-circular
heads of brick; on the E. side three square-headed
windows.
S. Elevation—has ten windows, five in each stage,
similar to those in the corresponding stages on the
N. elevation, except that the central window in
the upper stage has small carved side-brackets.
Below this window was the original S. entrance,
which was removed in 1856 (when the vestibules
were built) and was replaced by a window made
to match the others in the lower stage. At the
W. end is the modern S. vestibule and entrance.
The W. Tower is of four stages divided by plain
stone string-courses and surmounted by a wooden
balustraded parapet and a spire of later date.
In the W. wall is a semi-circular-headed doorway
with a deep keystone carved with a floriated
and scrolled cartouche of the arms of Henry
Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans. In the second stage
in the W. wall is a semi-circular-headed window,
partly blocked; before the modern vestibules
were built, there was probably a similar window
in the N. and S. walls. In the third stage in
each wall is a circular window, and in the fourth
stage in each wall is a round-headed opening.
The spire of c. 1760 is octagonal and is carried by
a small octagonal chamber upon a rectangular
clock-chamber; the octagonal chamber has in
each face a semi-circular-headed opening. It is
built of wood and lead.
Interior: (Plate 157). The splays of the E. window are carried up to the plaster barrel-vault, thus
forming a segmental-headed recess, the soffit of
which is divided by mouldings into seven panels,
each containing a rosette. The cornice of the
entablature which divides the window into two
stages is carried across the E. wall and forms the
cornice of the entablature on the E. wall of each
aisle.
The two aisles are each of five bays divided by
rectangular piers which, together with the responds,
support the gallery and carry colonnades, each of
six Corinthian columns. The columns are painted
to imitate marble, and the piers are painted and
each have a cornice with egg-and-dart moulding.
Over each column, and running back to the wall,
is an entablature with egg-and-dart and other
enrichments; the soffit of the entablature has
moulded panels and a rosette. On the wall
beneath each entablature is a decorative corbel
with a cartouche or a scallop-shell of St. James
set in floral and scroll ornament. From the
entablature over each column spring the transverse
ribs of the barrel-vault which forms the ceiling
of the main body of the church. The ribs are
marked by elaborate guilloche and foliage patterns,
and the soffit of the vault is divided by enriched
mouldings into square panels; three of these at
the apex of the vault contain large and elaborate
rosettes. The main barrel-vault is intersected in
each bay by a small transverse barrel-vault, which,
carried by the transverse entablatures, forms the
ceiling of each bay of the aisles. On the soffit of
the main vault above each of these intersections
is a narrow panel adapted to the curve of the
intersecting vault; in the centre of each of these
panels is a cherub-head between swags of fruit
and flowers. The small vaults have each two
ornamental transverse ribs similar to those of
the main vault, and a large rosette.
At the E. end of the N. aisle is a doorway
opening into the returned part of the vestry, and
in the N. wall of this aisle is a doorway opening
into the vestry. At the W. end of each aisle is
a doorway, originally external, but now opening
into the modern vestibules.
The Gallery is carried round the W. end, where
it is supported by two Doric columns. The front
of the gallery is moulded and enriched with egg-and-dart, floral and other patterns.
The W. Tower is entered from the nave by a
plain semi-circular-headed arch and has an external
doorway in the W. wall. The doorways in the
N. and S. walls were originally external but now
open into the modern vestibules. The central bay
of the original structure at the W. end projects
similarly to that at the E. end; but this projection
is now masked externally by the vestibules. The
vestibules contain the present staircases up to the
gallery; the original staircases were at the W. ends
of the aisles.
The Vestry has an original moulded wood cornice,
and an original fireplace with a moulded marble
architrave.
Fittings—(all of late 17th-century date, unless
otherwise described). Bell: one, by William and
Philip Wightman, 1686. Chest: in vestry, iron-bound chest with ornamental keyhole. Communion Rails: of white marble with moulded base,
rail and intermediate uprights and square piers
with sunk panels filled with carved fruit and
flowers; panels, between piers and uprights, of
cast bronze with festoons of foliage and flowers.
Communion Table: of oak, with front of three
panels divided by carved and twisted Composite
columns standing on an enriched chamfered base
and supporting enriched entablature with carved
cherub-heads and fruit and flower swags between;
sides of one panel each with large carved rosette
in centre; table enlarged by addition of side panels
and standing on modern plinth; top modern. Font:
(Plate 2) of white marble, with round bowl carved
in low relief with scenes representing Baptism of
our Lord, the ark floating on the waters, and the
baptism of the eunuch of Candace by St. Philip;
stem carved to represent a tree entwined by
serpent, and, on either side, nude figures of Adam
and Eve. Gallery: see Architectural Description.
Monuments: In chancel—on E. wall, (1) to
Theodora, wife of Richard King, 1693, oval tablet
with carved drapery, laurel-wreath, cherubs and
shield-of-arms; on N. wall, (2) to George, Earl of
Huntingdon, 1704, tablet with fluted Corinthian
columns at sides supporting entablatures, with
achievement-of-arms and pediment with carved
urn; at sides and base carved trophies-of-arms;
(3) to Sir Theophilus Oglethorpe, 1701, and Lewis
[his son], 1704, white marble tablet with carved
laurel, skull and drapery; on E. wall, (4) to
Susanna, daughter of John, Earl of Clare, and
widow of Sir John Lort, 1710, large tablet with
carved cherub-heads under canopy of drapery,
flanked by Corinthian columns supporting entablature with broken curved pediment containing
lozenge-of-arms; (5) to Mary (Smith), wife of
Archibald Hutcheson, 1698, tablet with carved
drapery, palm branches and shield-of-arms; on
S. wall—(6) to Henry Sidney, Earl of Romney,
1704, monument with semi-circular niche having
fluted coved head and containing urn and two
cherubs; niche flanked by twisted and partly
fluted Corinthian columns supporting entablature,
cherubs and painted achievement-of-arms; in
bottom part of monument, inscription-panel and
carved trophies, etc. In N. aisle—on second pier
from the E., (7) to John Haines, 1691, and Mary,
his widow, 1719, tablet with carved drapery,
cherubs and blank shield; on third pier, (8) to
Arthur Johnson, 1703, and Martha, his widow,
1721, carved tablet with drapery and cherub-heads;
on fourth pier, (9) to John Combes, 1711, and
Damaris, his wife, 1707, tablet with carved drapery
and shield-of-arms. In S. aisle—on first pier, (10)
to Elizabeth (Hodson), 1698, wife of Col. Benjamin
Fletcher, "late Captain-general and Governour-incheife of his Majesties Province of New Yorke,"
tablet with cornice, crown and palm-branches and
shield-of-arms; carved figure of angel on one side,
and, on the other, a reversed torch; on second
pier, (11) to Lucy (Fuller), 1710, wife of Edward
Gaunt, also to Edward Gaunt, 1716, tablet surrounded by scrolls and palm branches with shield-of-arms above; on third pier, (12) to Anne,
daughter of the "Rt. Hon. Anthony de Bey, Lord
Barron of Batilly, Major-general to Louis 13th
and 14th, Kings of France" and wife of Major-general Sir William Douglas, 1709, tablet with
carved scroll-work, cherub-heads and cartouches-of-arms; on fourth pier, (13) to Mary (Caley), 1714,
wife first of Sir Samuel Marow, Bart., secondly of
Francis Fisher, plain tablet. Organ (Plate 157)
and Organ Gallery over W. gallery—of oak, with
gallery full width of nave and in three bays supported on four Tuscan columns with entablature
and bolection-moulded panelling; ends of gallery
convex, and middle bay projecting with concave
sides and supported on curved brackets under
cornice; projecting from middle of central bay,
and carried on carved brackets, small quire organ,
in two bays, with three projecting towers of pipes
on carved corbels and surmounted by entablature
connected at top by ramped cornice over intermediate panels of pipes. Main organ over middle
bay of gallery and in two stages, lower cased with
bolection-moulded panelling surmounted by entablature with carved frieze projecting on semi-circular carved cherub-head corbels under central
and side towers of pipes dividing the upper stage
into two bays; towers surmounted by carved
entablatures with pierced foliage below, enclosing
heads of pipes; intermediate panels of pipes open,
with carved bands across middle and surmounted
by segmental-shaped cornices; over side towers,
standing cherubs blowing trumpets; over central
tower, two kneeling cherubs supporting crown;
and, over intermediate panels, winged female
figures holding trumpets. Organ by Renatus
Harris, 1678, for James II and intended for his
chapel in Whitehall, given to St. James' church by
Queen Mary, 1691; organ rebuilt but original
pipes retained, 1852. Plate: includes cup of
1662 with representation of Last Supper in repoussé,
four cups and patens, large stand-paten, an alms-dish, with representation of Last Supper in centre
and four panels on border—(a) the Annunciation,
(b) the Nativity, (c) the Crucifixion, (d) the
Resurrection—all in repoussé work, and two
flagons and one larger flagon; all the above,
except the first, of 1683 and enriched with
acanthus-leaf ornamentation, cups with cherubheads, etc.; two small cups with cover-patens
of 1693, a spoon of early 18th-century date, a
flagon, with representation of St. Paul in Malta, in
repoussé work, 17th-century, and a small cup and
cover-paten of 1683. Reredos: (Plate 158), extending
full width of chancel and divided into three bays
by panelled pilasters supporting enriched entablature continued from gallery-fronts and cornice
carried in curved pediment over centre bay; side
bays each with two raised and bolection-moulded
panels; middle bay with modern picture framed
in bolection-moulding, with surround of elaborate
carved limewood, in high relief, pelican in her
piety above, with ribbon and swags and festoons
of fruit, sea-shells, wheat-ears, foliage, etc.;
entablature and cornice over pediment not original,
but altered to present condition in 19th century.
Condition—Good, but tower out of perpendicular.
(12). Parish Church of St. Martin in the
Fields, at the N.E. corner of Trafalgar Square,
was entirely rebuilt in 1721–26 from the designs
of James Gibbs. It contains from the 16th-century
church the following:—
Fittings—Font: in form of an urn and pedestal,
moulded oval bowl of veined marble, stem of same
form, enriched with acanthus and with spiral
flutings above and a cornice. Cover, oval, with
enriched concave top with festoons of flowers and
two small doves; modern inscription recording
gift in 1689. Monuments: In crypt—on S. wall,
(1) to Thomas Evans [1612], inscription only,
bust now on Monument (8); (2) to Margaret
(Faldo), 1677, wife successively of John Berkehead
and Stephen Knight, inscription only; (3) to John
Throckmorton, 1664, fragment of inscription. On
E. wall, (4) to Benjamin Collinge, 1700, and
Catherine (Ollivers), his wife, 1719, marble tablet
flanked by scrolls and finished with a cornice and
cartouche; (5) to Sir Thomas Woodcock, 1679,
Barbara, his wife, 1673, and three sons, Charles,
1673, Edward, 1699, and John, 1703, marble tablet
with cornice, broken pediment and cartouche;
(6) to Utrecia Tompson, 1691, and her husband,
John, 1700, plain tablet; (7) to Utrecia, 1684, and
Frances, 1686, daughters of John Tompson, headstone with lozenge-of-arms; (8) to Sir Theodore
Mayerne [1655], restored monument with achievement and lozenge-of-arms at sides and surmounted
by bust of T. Evans (see Monument 1). On piers,
(9) to Catherine (Wingfield), wife of Francis Bacon,
1660, tablet with scrolls and defaced shield-of-arms;
(10) to Frances, daughter of Arthur Jones, Viscount
Ranelagh, 1672, inscription only; (11) to Nathaniel
Hardy, S.T.D., 1670, (the cartouche-of-arms from
this monument is separated from the inscription);
(12) to John Steward, 1633, inscription only;
(13) to Jane Jackson, 1670, draped tablet with
cherub-head and skull; (14) to Thomas Bilson,
1652; (15) to Edith (Bettesworth), wife of [Thomas]
Bilson, 1651, oval tablet with scrolls, cherubs and
shield-of-arms; (16) to Elizabeth (Jolly), wife of
Andrew Macdowall, 1670, cartouche with cherubs,
scroll-work and head of woman at top, shield-of-arms below; (17) to Joanna (Miller), wife of Lord
Henry Powlet, 1673, tablet with scrolls, swags and
cartouche with blank lozenge; (18) to Robert
Clayton, 1676, plain marble tablet; (19) to
[Frances] (Gaudy), 1683, and John Troutbeck,
her husband [1684], plain marble tablet. On N.
wall, (20) to Margaret, wife of Joseph White, 1687,
tablet with scrolls, skull, etc. All the above
monuments were reset after the rebuilding of the
church and many of them are in a fragmentary
state; fixed on the walls are numerous other
fragments of monuments, including a kneeling
figure of a man of c. 1600, possibly part of the
monument to William Cooke, 1589, whose arms
appear on two other fragments, a fragment with
figures of five sons and five daughters, and various
other shields-of-arms of later date. Plate: (Plate 160)
includes three cups of 1649; cup of 1653; cup
of 1679; cup and cover-paten, the former of 1691;
three cups of 1683, cover-paten of 1683, and a
cover-paten, probably of the same date; paten of
1691; paten of 1682; stand-paten of 1699, from
Long Acre Chapel; flagon of 1634 with base
added 1726, flagon of 1700, given by Lady
Mason to Trinity Chapel and with shield-of-arms,
flagon of 1705, and an alms-dish of 1656.
Condition—Rebuilt.

Westminster. The Parish Church of St Mary le Strand
(13). Parish Church of St. Mary le Strand
stands in the middle of the Strand, N.E. of
Waterloo Bridge. The walls are faced entirely
with Portland stone and the roofs are lead-covered.
The church was built from the designs of James
Gibbs, the foundation-stone being laid on February 25th, 1714, and the building completed on
September 7th, 1717; the steeple formed no part
of the original design, its oblong plan being
dictated by the pre-existing structure below.
The church is a purely Renaissance structure
consisting of a rectangular body with an apse
flanked by vestries at the E. end, and a tower
flanked by a staircase and vestry at the W. end;
projecting from the W. front is a semi-circular
portico. Under the church is a basement or crypt.
Elevations (Plate 161)—The whole church is
divided into two storeys, the lower of the Ionic,
and the upper of the Corinthian order, with
their appropriate entablatures and with columns
or pilasters between the bays.
The E. end has an apse of three bays; each bay
of the lower storey has a round-headed window
with architrave and carved keystone; the cornice
of the entablature is carried over the head of each
window in a curve; flanking each window are large
pendants of fruit and flowers and below each
window is a large rusticated panel within which
is a sunk panel carved with conventional foliage, etc.
The upper storey of the apse has in each bay a
large rusticated panel in which is set a round-headed niche with an architrave and a pediment
supported on carved consoles; below the pediment
are cherub-heads and swags; higher up the wall
in each bay is an apron-shaped projection, finished
with a cornice. The balustraded parapet has
pedestals with vases between the bays.
The bays at the E. end of the main block have
each a large rusticated panel, similar to those on
the upper part of the apse, and a doorway with
architrave and segmental pediment resting on
carved consoles; below the pediment are cherubheads with swags; above the pediment is an
apron-shaped projection with a cornice. The bays
of the upper storey are similar to those of the apse
except that there are windows in place of niches.
The N. and S. elevations are uniform with one
another and are each of seven bays, the alternate
bays being finished with curved pediments, each
with three pedestals and vases; the pediment to
the middle bay is curved, and the intermediate
bays have a balustraded parapet. The lower
storey has in each bay, except the two end bays,
a niche similar to those in the apse and set within
large rusticated panels; the end bays have each
a window of similar type. In the upper storey
the five middle bays have each a round-headed
window with moulded archivolt and key carved
with a cherub-head; flanking the window are
coupled Corinthian pilasters supporting an entablature which forms the impost of the arched
head of the window; the spandrels above the
window-head have sunk panels with foliage. The
two end bays have windows similar to those of the
side bays of the E. end; below each window is a
sunk panel.
The W. end has, in the middle of the lower
storey, a projecting semi-circular portico with four
free Ionic columns and two pairs of coupled
columns against the wall; the roof is a saucershaped dome finished externally with an entablature and crowned by a large flaming urn or vase,
and finished internally with a coffered soffit with
rosettes and a large central ornament of foliage.
The W. doorway within the portico has a round
head with foliated panels in the spandrels above;
flanking the doorway are coupled Corinthian
pilasters supporting an entablature. The side bays,
both of the lower and upper storey, have windows
similar to those in the side bays of the E. end. The
middle bay of the upper storey has a window similar
to, but wider than, the middle windows in the side
walls; flanking it are coupled Corinthian columns
supporting a pediment above the main entablature.
The Steeple rises three stages above the parapet.
The lowest stage has a high plinth surmounted by
a moulded cornice; in the N. and S. sides is a
circular window with moulded architrave flanked
by consoles supporting a pediment, in the E. wall
is a similarly treated round-headed doorway, and in
the W. wall a clock-face; above the plinth are round-headed openings on the E. and W., with moulded
imposts and scrolled key; flanking each opening
are coupled Corinthian pilasters supporting the
continuous entablature at the top of the stage.
The N. and S. faces are much narrower than those
on the E. and W. and have each two Corinthian
columns with an opening between them; above
these columns are four vases. The next stage is
similar in composition to that below, but each
face has a carved pierced cartouche on the plinth
and there is also carving above the window
opening. The top stage forms a tall lantern and
cupola; the plinth has supporting consoles; the
lantern has a round-headed opening in each face
and a pilaster set diagonally at each angle; the
cupola has curved supports at the angles and on
each face a pierced cartouche; below the domed
top is a moulded cornice, and the cupola is surmounted by a gilded weather-vane.
Interior: (Plate 162) The Chancel (20 ft. by 19ft.) is
apsidal and has three windows divided by Corinthian
pilasters, supporting entablatures and pedestals
from which spring moulded ribs forming part of
the semi-domed ceiling; between the ribs are
moulded panels enclosing suns, clouds and cherubs;
the windows have moulded and enriched architraves, splays with recessed and enriched panels
and soffits with fret ornament; above each
window is a cornice supported on scrolled brackets
between which are cherub-heads and a Holy Dove
over the middle window. The Corinthian pilasters
flanking the opening to the apse support a round
arch with recessed soffit and side panels enriched
with palms and fruit. The W. bay of the chancel
has in each wall a doorway with moulded and
enriched architraves, entablature and pediment;
this bay is flanked by one Corinthian pilaster on
the E. and two on the W., all with enriched entablatures and panelled attics from which spring three
round arches with soffits enriched with foliage and
fruit; the ceiling between the arches is coffered
and has enriched panels filled with rosettes.
The Nave (64 ft. by 36 ft.) has walls of two
storeys, consisting of the Corinthian and Composite
orders respectively. The E. wall has coupled and
engaged fluted columns in each storey, flanking
the chancel-arch, each standing on a pedestal and
supporting entablatures which are continued round
the side walls. The spandrels of the chancel-arch
have foliage enrichment and above the arch is a
pediment with the royal arms of George I in the
tympanum. The N. and S. walls are of similar
general character to the E. wall, but the bays are
divided by pairs of pilasters and the entablature
of the upper storey is interrupted by the windows;
the lower storey has large plain panels with enriched
mouldings between the pilasters. The W. wall
has a round-headed doorway flanked by square
fluted pilasters; above it is a gallery carried on
two pairs of fluted Corinthian columns and an
enriched entablature; the gallery-front has square
balusters, panelled pedestals with swags and ribands
and a moulded cornice; the soffit of the gallery has
three coffered panels with flower-centres and the
soffit of the entablature has a fret. The upper
storey of the W. wall has a round-headed arch of
two enriched orders with fluted pilasters to the
responds. The ceiling of the nave forms a flat
elliptical arch and is divided into five bays by
coffered arches on the same plane as the ceiling;
the spaces between are divided by diagonal ribs
into enriched coffered panels; the ceiling is
groined back over the windows; above each
window is a cherub-head and swags of fruit and
foliage.
The Crypt, beneath the nave, is divided by
longitudinal walls into three parallel compartments
each with a barrel-vault; the walls are of brick.
The N. and S. Vestries are each circular on plan
and each has a blocked doorway in the E. wall and
a window in the N. and S. walls respectively.
The W. Porch, under the tower, has a panelled
barrel-vault and corridors on the N. and S. leading
to the tower-staircase on the N. and a small round
vestry on the S.
Fittings—All of early 18th-century date, unless
otherwise described. Chair: with oval back,
twisted side pieces, scrolled legs and twisted bars,
late 17th-century. Chest: In nave—panelled with
moulded edge to lid and moulded base. Communion Table and Rails. Table: with close
moulded panels to front and sides, moulded
capping and base. Rails: now enclosing quirestalls, with fluted and enriched column-shaped
balusters, carved and moulded rail and moulded
base and double gates. Doors: In W. doorway—
panelled doors of two folds with strap-hinges,
glazed fanlight to head. In doorway to N. and
S. vestries, W. porch and gallery—with moulded
panels. Font: (Plate 2) of white veined marble,
with moulded rim, circular bowl and baluster stem.
Organ Case: modern, but incorporating portions
of enriched capping similar to that of panelling
round walls of church and small pilasters with
carved Corinthian capitals. Panelling: Round
walls of chancel and nave, panelled wainscot with
moulded capping and skirting. In vestries—
moulded panelling to walls. In W. porch—
moulded panelling with fluted Corinthian pilasters
at angles and moulded cornice; similar moulded
panelling and cornice in corridors. Incorporated
in back of organist's seat, two panels carved
with acanthus foliage, flowers and corn. Plate:
(Plate 104) includes cup, probably of 1713;
cup, probably of 1702; large stand-paten of
1711 or 1702; two flagons of 1708; all the
above given by Edward Barker to the parish
church of the Savoy; cup of 1711 with
repoussé drapery; stand-paten of 1712 with
long inscription; two flagons of 1711 given to
St. Benet, Doctors' Commons; two alms-dishes
with repoussé work of c. 1660–70 and perhaps of
Hamburg manufacture; the above four items
given by Elinor James; two cover-patens, probably of early 18th-century date but without
marks; and alms-dish of 1681 with date 1711.
Pulpit: hexagonal, with sides of ogee section,
each with an enriched and shaped panel, enriched
cornice with cherub-heads and acanthus leaves,
richly carved and moulded base; modern stem.
Reredos: slightly curved frame with moulded
panel, enriched capping and base.
Condition—Good.
(14). Parish Church of St. Paul, Covent
Garden, stands in the middle of the S.W. side
of Covent Garden Market. The first church was
begun in 1631 and consecrated in 1638, and the
design is attributed to Inigo Jones. It was
entirely destroyed by fire in 1795 and rebuilt on
the old lines by Thomas Hardwick. It retains
the following fittings:—Clock: In vestry—original
movement of a Tompion floor-clock, early 18th-century. Monuments: On N. wall—(1) to Mary,
wife of John Ffenn, 1648, plain stone tablet; on S.
wall, (2) to John Yarwell, 1712, plain marble tablet.
Painting: on canvas, of Francis, Earl of Bedford,
"who dedicated this church to God, Sept. 26th,
1646," in carved wooden frame of late 17th-century
character. Plate: (Plate 4) includes two large
cups of 1655, both inscribed and dated 1656; two
stand-patens, probably of 1655, but with almost
obliterated date-letter; two large stand-patens of
1668; an inscribed flagon dated 1661, but without
date-letter; a similar flagon of 1671; two large
flagons of 1669 and 1670, respectively, both
inscribed and dated; and a large inscribed and
dated dish of 1668.
Condition—Rebuilt, present condition good.
(15). The Parish Church of St. George
stands on the E. side of George Street, 100 yards
S. of Hanover Square. It was built from the designs of John James; the foundation-stone was laid
in 1712 and the building was completed in 1724–5.
In the E. window of the chancel and N. and S. aisles
is the following Flemish stained-glass (Plates 163–
165) representing a Jesse tree; it is of mid 16th-century date and was brought from a convent in
Malines and adapted to fit its present position in
1841. The tree is in the form of a vine with
leaves and bunches of grapes, and forms the background of each of the lights on which are represented the figures of kings. In E. window of
chancel, in bottom of middle light, (a) Jesse, with
head resting on left hand, seated on throne of
elaborate Renaissance design with piers at sides,
one with modern medallion, the other with medallion of female head in circular border inscribed
"Minerve la mère de[s arts l]ibbral," throne
finished with carved head; above central figure
small allegorical winged figure labelled "Victorie,"
at sides cherubs supporting shields; tablets
above inscribed respectively (1) "Le fet lout
loure" (? Le fait loue l'œuvre) and (2) "Virtuti
ōia parent"; at bottom of light on N. side
figures with medallion inscribed, Aaron and
Esaias, pedestal inscribed "J'espere" supporting
cherub playing musical instrument; on S. side
similar arrangement with two unnamed figures and
corresponding cherub above on pedestal inscribed
"Mieux"; in middle of upper part of light,
large oval panel supported by cherubs and having
outer border of blue clouds, inner border of cherubheads and containing large figure of the Virgin in
robes and jewelled crown, holding on left arm
Child with halo and orb; above, in circle, a dove,
and, in head of light, two angels with drapery;
robed figures on N. side of light with staves labelled
Osias, Josaphat, on S. side Iechonias and Manasse,
the two upper figures being seated and the two
lower standing; the lower parts of all figures in
bottom of light have been cut off, probably when
glass was reset. On either side of main light,
three smaller lights divided by Corinthian columns,
middle light on N. side with figure with staff
labelled Isechias and David, with harp, middle
light on S. side with figure with staff and labelled
Ioram and Salomon, on robe the word "Semper";
side light filled with continuation of vine. In E.
windows of N. and S. aisles, set with modern
border with vine background; in N. aisle, two
robed figures, labelled respectively Aya and
Roboam (Plate 166); in S. aisle, two similar figures,
Iosyas and Achas.
(16). Parish Church of St. John the Evangelist, Smith Square, was finished in 1728. In the
E. window is some stained glass, probably of mid
16th-century date and said to have come from
a church in Rouen; it was presented to the
church in 1818. The glass is in one main and
two side panels, divided by Renaissance pilasters,
partly restored; the main panel represents the
Bearing of the Cross, somewhat restored, and the
side panels have figures of St. John the Evangelist,
much restored and with a modern head, and St.
Paul; each figure has a scroll with a black-letter
inscription, (a) " Sanctus Johannes Evang" and
(b) a dislocated inscription including the words
"Paulus Servus Christi."
(17). Christchurch, Victoria Street, was
entirely rebuilt in 1843, but retains from the old
church the following:
Fittings—Bell: by John Clifton, 1639. Floor-slab: In churchyard—at E. end, to John Thurston,
1713, with defaced achievement-of-arms; also
other slabs, entirely defaced.
Condition—Rebuilt.
(18). Church of St. Thomas stands at the N.
corner of Kingly Street and Chapel Court, Regent
Street. The walls are of brick, the E. wall is
rendered in cement; the roofs are tiled. It was
founded as a chapel by Archbishop Tenison late
in the 17th century and was then known as the
Tabernacle, but this was no doubt a temporary
structure. The existing church was built in 1702
and is a rectangular building with continuous
Chancel and Nave (71½ ft. by 34 ft.). North and
South Aisles (11½ ft. wide) with Galleries above
the westernmost bays continued across the W. end
of the nave, and a small West Tower; a modern
front to Regent Street was built in 1823 by C. R.
Cockerell, but this has now been pulled down;
the S.W. porch is modern.

Church of St. Thomas, Regent Street. Plan
Architectural Description—The E. wall is rendered in cement; it has a projecting bay in the
middle with a large round-headed window and is
finished with a modillioned cornice and acute
pediment having a round opening in the tympanum.
The main roof is continued down on either side of
the middle bay to meet the flat roofs of the aisles,
which have a plain parapet with a band-course
below it. The ends of the aisles have each a plain
round-headed window. Projecting from the front
on either side of the middle bay is a porch, probably
added late in the 18th century. The S. side is of
five bays and of two storeys divided by a band-course and with a band below the plain parapet.
There are two ranges of plain windows, five in each
range and all with segmental heads; the easternmost window of the lower range is blocked.
Against W. wall of nave is a small brick tower
with moulded wood cornice. It supports a hexagonal bell-turret also of wood surrounded by a
balustrade, partly modern. Each face is pierced
by a segmental-headed and shouldered opening.
Above the moulded cornice is an ogee-shaped and
lead-covered cupola surmounted by a ball, wrought-iron scrolls and vane with the date 1702.
Interior: The chancel and nave are five bays
in length and are divided from the aisles by two
ranges of superimposed orders; the lower range
is of the Doric order with the columns formed out
of large balks of timber with simple moulded
capitals and bases; the columns support an entablature surmounted by the gallery-front which breaks
forward over each column to form a plinth to the
column above: these latter are of the Ionic order
with moulded bases; the columns are probably of
timber construction and are covered with painted
plaster; they support a moulded architrave, which
is carried across the E. wall and returns on to the
reveals of the E. window. Against the E. and W.
walls are pilasters of the same order as the responds
and there are similar pilasters flanking the E.
window. The E. window with its flanking pilasters
is recessed back from the main wall, which, on
either side, has square-headed panels with moulded
architraves standing on panelled pedestals; the
panels are now filled with modern mosaics. In the
W. wall is a doorway, probably enlarged during
the 19th century, and above, at the gallery-level,
is a recess occupied by the organ with a squareheaded window on either side, probably of later
date. In the E. and W. walls of the aisles are
round-headed windows with splayed jambs and
sills and there are windows in the side walls;
the windows to the gallery, except the westernmost, have window-seats. The ceiling over the
nave is segmental and rises from the architrave
surmounting the upper range of columns; it is
divided into bays by slightly projecting bands
and each band has four long and three square
panels, the latter with rosettes in the middle of
each, probably of later date. The ceilings to the
aisles are flat with architrave mouldings round
the walls as a cornice.
Fittings—All of early 18th-century date unless
otherwise described. Bell: inaccessible, said to
be of same date as church. Galleries: over three
westernmost bays of N. aisle and four westernmost
bays of S. aisle, with panelled fronts and moulded
capping; entablatures form supporting columns
returned along E. end of gallery-fronts and between
fourth and fifth bay of N. aisle, partly modern.
Organ-gallery modern, but probably incorporating
portions of old front; shafts of supporting columns
apparently reused. Gallery probably originally
extended full length of aisles. Painting: incorporated in reredos of side altar, in oil, of Madonna
and Child and St. John the Baptist, 16th-century,
Italian. Panelling: in S. gallery, portion at W.
end refixed as dado, early 17th-century. In both
galleries dado in two heights, but incorporating, on
N. wall, length with square channels cut on rails
and styles; also two raised panels. Pulpit:
probably of oak, painted, with moulded cornice
and base, connected to hexagonal stem by deep
cavetto moulding; large panels at sides eared at
top and carved with cherub-heads and hanging
swags of leaves and drapery; one panel pierced
and fitted with wooden cross; stairs later and
door missing. Rainwater-heads: of simple rectangular form with moulded upper edge. Reredos:
of polished mahogany and oak with gilt mouldings;
side pilasters with moulded bases and caps supporting an entablature and curved pediment;
flanking pilasters, elongated carved scrolls, and,
in middle, oil painting. Seating: Pews in gallery
with plain square edged panelling at backs and
ends, possibly early 18th-century. Vestment:
cope, of silk brocade, borders of gold thread
embroidered with six figures, probably of apostles,
and hood of same material embroidered with a
coronation of the Virgin, of Italian character, said
to be of 16th-century date.
Condition—Good.
(19). Church of St. Mary the Virgin, Charing
Cross Road, 100 yards N. of Cambridge Circus, was
completed in 1876 on the site of the Greek church.
(see inscription below). It contains the following
ancient:—
Fittings—Glass: In the three windows in the
S. wall, in the tracery and mixed up with modern
glass in some of the main lights is a large number
of fragments of borders, crowns alternating with
coloured glass, tabernacle-work and ruby roses, of
the 14th and 15th centuries, together with fragments of drapery and enamel-painted tabernacle-work of 15th to 17th-century date. Inscription:
(Plate 170) On the W. wall of the nave is a stone
slab inscribed with an inscription in Greek to the
following effect:—"In the year of Salvation 1677
this Temple was erected for the nation of the
Greeks, the Most Serene Charles II being King
and the Royal Prince Lord James being Commander of the Forces, the Right Reverend Lord
Henry Compton being Bishop, at the expense of
the above and their Bishops and Nobles, and
with the concurrence of our Humility of Samos
Georgeirenes from the Island of Melos."
(20). The Rolls Chapel of St. Thomas, which
had been largely rebuilt in the 18th century, was
demolished when the Public Record Office was extended in 1896–1900. The chancel-arch was re-erected in the court-yard of the Record Office, and
the site of the chapel is now occupied by the
Museum. The arch is of early 13th-century date,
two-centred and of two moulded orders, and springs
from tapering corbels with moulded imposts and
foliated bases; the crown of the arch is missing.
In the Museum are preserved the following:
Fittings—Bell: (Plate 170) with six canons and
of the long waisted form, probably 14th-century or
earlier. Glass: In S. windows—six achievements-of-arms as follows, (a) Henry, Prince of Wales,
dated 1611, (b) Sir Thomas Egerton; (c) Sir
Edward Phelips, sergeant-at-law; (d) Robert
Cecil, Earl of Salisbury; (e) Sir Harbottle
Grimston, Bart., dated 1660; (f) H. Powle, M.R.,
1691, all 17th-century. Monuments: Against N.
wall, (1) of Dr. John Yong, 1516, Master of the
Rolls. Recessed arch in wall with architravemoulding carried round semi-circular arch (Plate
168). Under it is a moulded sarcophagus resting on
a panelled base and supporting a recumbent effigy.
The sarcophagus is entirely moulded, the two main
hollows being fluted and having acanthus ornament at the angles. The two front angles have
lions' feet, and between them is a long scroll
inscribed "Dominus Firmamentum Meum." The
base has a moulded cornice and plinth with a
panelled pilaster at each end. These panels have
each a shield—lozengy a cheveron with three rings
thereon and a chief charged with a goat's head razed
between two scallops—the background has carved
ribbons. The middle part of the base has a raised
moulding with carved ornament at the sides and
enclosing a marble panel with gilt letters. The
effigy (Plate 169) is vested in a red robe with
a tippet of the same colour and a black hood.
The hands are crossed over the breast and
the head has a black baret-cap and rests on
two cushions with remains of gilding. On the
wall-space above the effigy are three heads—
in the middle and issuing from clouds is a
head of Christ, and on either side is a cherub-head with four wings. The monument is a remarkable example of pure Italian style by P. Torrigiani,
the material is limestone, with the effigy, etc. of
terra-cotta. (2) of Edward, Lord Bruce, 1610, alabaster altar-tomb and wall-monument (Plate 167),
consisting of a panelled altar-base on which is a
reclining effigy and in front of which are four
kneeling children; at the back and above the
effigy is a high 'reredos.' The effigy is bearded
and reclines on the right hand; it has a wide
collar and fur-lined robe and in the left hand is a
roll. The base is simply panelled and before it
kneel two sons, one in armour and one in civil
costume, and two daughters, one with a cloak
and one with a hooped skirt; between the sons
and daughters is a panelled pedestal. The 'reredos' has a shallow semi-circular arch enclosing
two panels with egg-and-tongue enrichment.
Flanking the 'reredos' are a pair of Corinthian
columns of black marble standing on enriched
pedestals and supporting the main entablature,
which is enriched with two cherub-heads and two
roses. Above the entablature, in the middle, is
an enriched panel with an achievement-of-arms
and surmounted by a winged skull, hour-glass, etc.
Above each column is a cartouche with a shield-of-arms. (3) of Richard Alington, 1561, and his wife,
wall-monument (Plate 171) of alabaster and black
marble, consisting of a plain base of grey marble and
two round-headed recesses, each enclosing a kneeling
figure. The figure of the woman has a long robe
and holds a book, that of the man is in armour
and holds a helmet. The recesses have coffered
soffits and on the keystones are carved heads of
fauns with their brows garlanded with vine and
fruit, which is continued as festoons on either side.
Between the recesses is a panelled pier with an
inscription, and below it a projecting panel with
kneeling figures of three daughters in front and a
shield-of-arms and carving below; below the
recesses is a balustrade. Flanking the monument
are black marble Corinthian columns and above is
an enriched entablature. (4) to Edmund Kedermister, 1607, one of the six clerks in Chancery,
small tablet with cartouche-of-arms, erected by
John Clapham in 1608. Plate: includes two
patens, probably of 1713 and presented in 1818.
Miscellanea: Loose, two fragments of a cornice
carved with half-angels supporting a rose, etc.,
found behind Monument (1), early 16th-century.
(21). The Chapel Royal, Savoy, stands between
Savoy Street and Savoy Steps. The walls are
of rag-stone and other rubble with dressings of
Reigate stone; the roofs are covered with slates.
The Chapel was built in 1505 and formed part
of the buildings of the Hospital of St. John the
Baptist, Savoy, founded by Henry VII. The
chapel formerly extended several feet further S.
It was restored in the reign of George IV, partly
destroyed by fire and restored in 1843, entirely
burnt out in 1864 and finally restored in 1865;
the S. wall, S. Tower and E. Vestry are modern.

The Chapel Royal, Savoy. Plan
Architectural Description—The Chancel and
Nave (89½ ft. by 23½ ft.) are without structural
division and stand N. and S. The window in the
N. wall and the five windows in each side wall are
entirely modern, but probably follow the lines of
the old work. Partly under the northernmost
window in the W. wall is the four-centred head of
an original doorway.
Fittings—Brass: In chancel—to Thomas Halsey, Bishop of Leighlin, and Gavan Dowglas,
Bishop of Dunkeld, 1522, inscription only. Monuments: Remains of former monuments—on S.
wall, (1) of Alice, daughter of Simon Steward,
1578, small kneeling figure of woman on modern
corbel with modern inscription; on N. wall, (2) said
to be of Nicola (Moray), wife of Sir Robert Douglas,
1612, similar figure with modern corbel and inscription. Painting: On W. wall—painted gesso on
wood, of Virgin and Child, with eight saints,
including SS. Peter and Paul, a bishop, St. John
the Baptist (?) and four female saints, one probably
St. Margaret, gilt base, frame and gable, Italian,
14th-century. Piscina: with moulded jambs,
four-centred head, moulded bracket and defaced
drain, early 16th-century.
Condition—Good.
(22). Marlborough Chapel (Plate 172) stands
on the E. side of Marlborough Road. The walls are
of brick, cement rendered, and with dressings of
Portland stone; the roofs are covered with slates.
The chapel is said to have been built in 1623 by
Inigo Jones, but it can hardly have advanced far
as it does not appear in Hollar's view of the palace
of c. 1660. It does, however, appear in a view of
c. 1690, so it was, no doubt, the chapel erected
or completed in 1662 for Catherine of Braganza;
this drawing shows an apsidal E. end which was
perhaps removed early in the 18th century when
Marlborough House was built; the existing E.
wall is probably of this date as well as much of
the internal decoration. The buildings adjoining
the chapel on the S.W. stand on the site of 17th-century structures of the same character and
may incorporate some walling of that period.
Partitions have been erected in recent years to
form a vestry and other rooms.
Architectural Description—The Chapel (79¾ ft.
by 28 ft.) has rusticated angles, a moulded stone
band about 10 ft. from the ground and a heavy
cornice with shaped modillions and a pediment at
each end of the building. In the E. wall is a
window of three lights divided and flanked externally by fluted Corinthian pilasters, which support
an entablature over the side lights; the middle
light has a round head with a moulded architrave;
internally, this window is finished in a similar
manner, and above the middle light are festoons
of fruit and foliage and a cartouche of the royal
Stuart arms impaling Portugal (for Catherine of
Braganza) supported by two angels, all in modelled
plaster. In the N. wall are two square-headed
windows with external architraves and pediments
supported on scrolled brackets; internally, the
windows have an enriched and eared architrave;
near the W. end of the wall is a similar blocked
window; between the two eastern windows is a
large round-headed recess with panelled reveals
enriched with acanthus and other ornament in
plaster. The S. wall is similarly treated, as concerning the easternmost window and the recess;
the western part of the wall is covered externally
by the adjoining building, and corresponding to the
second window is a round-headed recess, internally,
of semi-circular plan and having a square-headed
and eared architrave and cherub-head with swags in
the spandrel. The main W. wall is in two storeys,
the lower having a square-headed doorway in the
middle with eared architrave and entablature;
flanking the doorway are square windows with
architraves and small cornices; the upper storey
has three windows, the middle window having
pilasters on the jambs and a round head with an
architrave; the side windows are square-headed
and have eared architraves and plain entablatures.

Marlborough Chapel
Internally, the building (Plate 173) is divided into
two parts by a cross-wall in two stages of which the
upper formed the royal pew or gallery; the lower
stage has three openings divided by wainscotted
piers and the upper stage three openings with
plaster decorations of late 18th-century character.
The interior of the chapel is finished with an entablature having an enriched cornice from which springs
the coffered ceiling of semi-elliptical form; the
panels of the ceiling have enriched mouldings with
plaster flowers at the intersections and in the
middle of each panel. To the W. of the cross-wall
the building is divided into two storeys and is
cut up into rooms. In the S.W. angle and on the
S. wall of the lower storey is part of the original
cornice. In the N. wall of the gallery is a fireplace
with shaped brackets to the shelf and a frieze
enriched with acanthus ornament and a cartouche;
the overmantel has a border of overlapping circles
and fruit pendants on the side pilasters.
Fittings—The fittings are all of late 17th or
early 18th-century date. Cistern: (Plate 91) In
yard on S. side—lead cistern with three shaped
and moulded panels in front each with a rose and
crown, date 1709 at top, at one end a similar
panel. Communion Table and Rails. Table:
with moulded top rails and stretchers and turned
legs, subsequently heightened. Rails: with panelled standards, coupled at each end, turned balusters
and moulded upper and lower rails; date as table.
Door: In S. doorway—of two panelled leaves,
opening with enriched architrave. Gallery: (Plate
201) above S. doorway—front of three bays, middle
bay projecting and having quadrant angles, five
carved panels in all, middle one with drapery
hanging from fleur-de-lis, carved panel with foliage,
garters and a thistle and rose, respectively, side
panels with foliage and the star of the garter over
two crossed sceptres; enriched upper and lower rails.
Gallery or royal pew—front with turned balusters
to each opening and moulded rail. Panelling:
panelled wainscot to side walls up to height of
window sills and finished with enriched cornice.
In recess on N. side, a dummy doorway with
enriched architrave, cornice and pediment. Plate:
see St. James' Palace, Chapel Royal (p. 131b.)
Reredos: forming also base to organ gallery and
returned across the angles with a quadrant curve;
panelled lower part with enriched mouldings and
cornice, round-headed doorways on projecting W.
faces and similar round-headed niches in curved
faces all with impost mouldings continued across
reredos; above cornice, panelled attic with enriched
cornice and plinth and panels filled with acanthus
foliage, garlands of fruit and flowers and two busts
of bearded men. Stalls: (Plate 8) enclosed with
panelled fronts moulded capping and base, doors
and sides with enriched panels and carved cherubheads at angles. Staircase: at S.W. angle of
building—two lower flights with square newels,
moulded hand-rails and turned balusters.

Westminster Palace
Condition—Good.
(23). French Protestant Huguenot Church,
on N. side of Soho Square, 30 yards W. of Soho
Street, is a modern building, but retains the
following fittings. Painting: In room on S. of
chancel, small portrait of head and shoulders of
the "Revd. John de Lepine, born at Amiens in
Picardy, France, 1641, died 1714." Royal Arms:
in library, over fireplace, achievement of the arms
of the Stuarts, of wood carved in high relief.
Secular
(24). The Palace of Westminster stands
between Westminster Abbey and the river. The
only ancient parts remaining since the fire of 1834
are Westminster Hall, St. Stephen's Cloister and
the crypt of the chapel.
The Hall is probably the finest timber-roofed
building in Europe, and the cloister and chapel,
though much restored, have interesting stone
vaulting with carved bosses.
Westminster Hall (Plate 175) (239½ ft. by 67½ ft.)
was built under William II at the end of
the 11th century. At this period the hall
consisted of twelve bays and was almost certainly divided into three aisles by columns
either of timber or stone. Large parts of the side
walls of this building still remain. The reconstruction of the hall was begun by Richard II
in 1394 and completed in 1402. The alterations
consisted in raising the side walls, roofing the
whole building in one span, the addition of flying
buttresses to support the roof, the entire rearrangement of the baying and windows, the
addition of two towers at the N. end, and various
other works. No further material alterations
appear to have been made till modern times.
The whole of the external, and much of the internal,
stonework was renewed in the various restorations
of Kent, Soane, Smirke, Barry and Pearson in
the 18th and 19th centuries. Under the superintendence of Barry most of the S. wall was
removed and replaced by an arch and the two
towers flanking the N. entrance. The roof has
been repaired and rendered safe by steel reinforcement in recent years. The lantern is modern
and the existing floor is about 3¾ ft. above the
Norman floor-level.
The E. wall (Plate 174) has two modern doorways and a modern alcove at the N. end. The
twelve windows are all of late 14th-century date
but modern externally; they are each of two
cinquefoiled lights with a quatrefoil in a two-centred head; the splays are shafted and continued
as a moulded rear-arch with a label; the
label-stops are carved with (a) shield with the
arms of the Confessor; (b) bearded man with
falcon on wrist; (c and d) couched harts; (e) beast;
(f) lion, damaged; (g and h) beast (?) and lamb;
(i) bust; (j) angel playing harp; (k) shield of
France ancient quartering England, partly defaced,
helm with lion crest; (l) defaced; (m) chained
hart and tree; (n—v) harts, some with parkpalings; the S. window is shorter than the
others, three of which are blocked externally
by modern buildings. During the recent repairs
portions of the 11th-century windows and wall-passage (Plate 179) were uncovered; they had
been cased in and built up in the late 14th-century alterations. The arrangement indicated
by these remains consisted of twelve round-headed windows with splay and jamb-shafts, the
shafts only half the height of the splay; at the
base of the windows ran a wall-passage with a
round barrel-vault and opening into the hall by
a series of round arches, two between each window;
these arches and the window-splays rested on
piers consisting of four grouped shafts with cushion
capitals and moulded abaci and bases. The inner
wall of the passage had remains of red and blue
colour with black line and many of the stones bore
masons' marks.
The N. wall (Plate 149) has a large modern
window and a doorway below it, also modern but
probably reproducing the old design.
The W. wall has twelve windows similar to those
in the E. wall, but all of the same size. The label-stops (Plate 177) are carved as follows—(a) angel;
(b) seated female figure, headless; (c) defaced;
(d) angel playing lute; (e) figure holding target;
(f) angel with shield; (g) defaced; (h) man in
hood; (i) man with lute; (j) figure as (h) with
object on left shoulder; (k) figure of man;
(l) man playing viol; (m) falcon with hare; (n)
angel holding crown; (o and p) men with helm
and leopard-crest; (q and r) men with objects on
shoulders; (s) lion; (t) beast; (u) man with target
and sword; (v) man playing zither; (w) angel
praying; (x) woman, defaced. Below the windows
are modern doorways. The modern buildings
adjoining the outside of this wall stand on the
site of earlier buildings of various dates from the
13th century downwards; parts of the original
external walling of the hall have been left uncovered and some stones bear masons' marks.
The S. wall has a large modern arch, and,
flanking it, six modern niches, each containing a
large late 14th or early 15th-century figure of a
king with sceptre, orb and crown; the relative
positions of the figures were changed when the
wall was rebuilt by Barry.

Westminster Hall. Reconstruction of Norman Arrangement.
The oak roof (Plates 176, 178) is of twelve bays
and of the hammer-beam type. All the main
timbers are moulded; the main principals are
curved and form two - centred arches below
the collar-beams; the hammer-beams (Plate 163)
have curved braces beneath and terminate in
large figures (Plate 180) of angels vested in
dalmatics, rising from clouds and holding shields
of the royal arms (France ancient and England
quarterly); from the side posts rise subsidiary
curved principals meeting at the head of the main
arch; the main purlins, at the level of the collarbeams, have curved longitudinal braces springing.
from embattled pilasters on the side posts. All
the spandrels have pierced traceried filling, the
larger spandrels being divided into lights with
trefoiled ogee heads: there is similar filling above
the collar-beams.
In three of the window-recesses in the E. wall
are as many large stone figures of kings, bearded
and crowned, and each formerly holding a sceptre
and orb; they appear to be of late 14th-century
date.
Nine early 12th - century carved capitals
(Plate 177), said to have come from Westminster
Hall, are now on loan at the Victoria and Albert
Museum, S. Kensington. One has a representation of Æsop's fable of the dog and the ass and a
second, an assault on a castle or city.
The Chapel of St. Mary, formerly called the Free
Chapel of St. Mary the Virgin and St. Stephen,
adjoins the S.E. corner of Westminster Hall. The
"King's New Chapel" was refounded in 1292,
Michael of Canterbury being master-mason. The
work was interrupted by the fire of 1298 and the
lower chapel (that now surviving) was finished
about 1320–27; the upper chapel was not completed till after the middle of the century. This
upper chapel was destroyed by fire in 1834, but
the crypt was retained for its present purpose
when the Houses of Parliament were rebuilt. It
was then so much restored and internally covered
with paint and gilding that it is now difficult to
distinguish the original work. With the exception
of the vaulting and possibly some of the supporting
shafts the whole of the face-work of the building
is modern.
The Chapel (90 ft. by 26 ft.) is of five vaulted
bays; (Plate 181) the vaulting over each bay has
moulded main, subsidiary, lierne and ridge-ribs
springing from grouped vaulting-shafts with carved
and moulded capitals and moulded bases; the wallribs are two-centred and trefoiled and the main ribs
are enriched on the underside with running fret-like
patterns, which are either modern or very much
restored; at the intersection of the ribs are the
following carved bosses (Plates 182, 183)—first bay,
(a) Martyrdom of St. Stephen with two tormentors
and background of conventional foliage; (b) angel
playing a rebeck, on background of flowers and
foliage, in rope-like octagonal frame; (c) two of
foliage, two with dragons, one with foliage and a
leopard's face; second bay, (a) on background of oak
foliage, St. John the Evangelist, in cauldron with
fire below and figure of tormentor on either side;
(b) on background of conventional foliage, in
quatrefoil of ogee foils, angel playing a psaltery;
(c) of foliage, two of leopards' heads, one of a
beast's head, one of two lions' heads and a dragon,
one of an old man and two dragons; third bay,
(a) on background of foliage, St. Katherine in long
robe and cloak standing on the emperor and, on
either side, figure of a man, a broken wheel, rising
from clouds above two angels with swords;
(b) a leopard's head and foliage; (c) two of
leopards' heads, the remainder of foliage; fourth
bay, (a) with background of oak foliage in which
are two doves, St. Margaret crowned and with
nimbus, with book in left hand and crossed staff
in right hand transfixing dragon, on which she
stands; (b) within octagonal frame with concave
sides and an outer wreath of roses, an angel
playing a rebeck; (c) two of leopards' faces and
foliage, two grotesque human heads and foliage,
one of foliage and one of double grotesque human
head; fifth bay, (a) on background of foliage,
St. Laurence, lying on large gridiron with tormentor on either side, one with bellows, the other
with long pole for stirring fire; on extreme left,
figure of judge (?) with corbelled pedestal below,
and, above the Saint, emerging from clouds, a
hand in blessing; (b) foliage; (c) one of grotesque
beasts, one of a grotesque human head, the
remainder of foliage.
St. Stephen's Cloister (88 ft. by 75 ft.) was rebuilt
shortly before the suppression by the last dean, Dr.
John Chambers, c. 1526–29. It is of two storeys,
but the upper one is almost, if not entirely, modern.
Externally, the walls have been entirely refaced,
as has also the inner walling between the vaultingshafts; the doors, windows and fireplaces are
modern. The N. and S. walks are each of five, and
the E. and W. walks (Plates 179, 184) each of six,
bays, excluding the angle bays. Projecting into the
court from the fourth bay from the N. in the W.
walk is the "Oratory," and from the centre of the
N. walk is a shallow 19th-century addition; both
of two storeys. The elevations to the court have
a continuous moulded plinth, a moulded string
dividing the storeys and a moulded string at the
eaves-level enriched with carved bosses and surmounted by a pierced traceried parapet, mostly
modern; between the bays are panelled and
canopied buttresses surmounted by crocketed
finials. In the lower stage, to each bay, between
the buttresses, is a large window of four cinquefoiled ogee-lights with tracery under a four-centred
head. In the fourth bay from the N. in the E.
walk, and the middle bay of the S. walk, is a
modern doorway under an ogee-shaped crocketed
and finialled label opening into the court. The
windows of the upper storey on the S. side are
similar to those below, but on the other three sides
the windows are square-headed. On the lower
floor each bay has a fan-vault (Plates 185–191) with
the cones springing from triple grouped shafts with
moulded capitals and bases. The ribs are moulded
and the spaces between them filled with traceried
panelling; the vault over each of the angle bays is of
somewhat different design from the rest, from which
they are divided by continuous four-centred arched
bands of traceried panelling. In the N. and S.
walks the cones have an extra horizontal rib
enriched with brattishing. Each bay, except at
the angles, has an elaborately carved central boss
and smaller subsidiary carved bosses of conventional foliage, Tudor roses, portcullises, fleurs-de-lis, pomegranates, etc.; at the ends of the
transverse ribs are half-angels holding carved
shields; the central bosses and charges on the
shields of the angels are as follows: N. walk—
first bay, central boss, (a) on background of
elaborate foliage, shield-of-arms of Henry VIII
with supporters of a lion and a dragon, surmounted
by a crown flanked by a rose and a pomegranate
sprig; (b) a crowned Tudor rose; (c) a fleur-de-lis; second bay, (a) a triple tower flanked by
a rose-sprig and pomegranate-sprig; (b) a Tudor
rose; (c) a triple towered castle; third bay,
(a) within a wreath of interlacing foliage, a shield
charged with the Five Wounds; (b) a fleur-de-lis;
(c) a cross cut off at the ends; fourth bay, (a)
within a wreath of foliage a shield of the arms of
Edward III (the founder of the college); (b)
England; (c) three crowns; fifth bay, (a) a rose
set in a wreath of small roses; (b) a fleur-de-lis;
(d) I.H.S. In E. walk—first bay, (a) on a ground
of roses and pomegranates, a crowned I.H.S.;
(b) I.H.S.; (c) a cross cut off at the ends; second
bay, (a) a shield of the arms of Edward the Confessor; (b) a triple tower; (c) a rose; third bay,
(a) within a wreath of foliage, a crowned shield of
the arms of Henry VIII with supporters of a
winged dragon and a leopard; (b) a fleur-de-lis;
(c) a pomegranate; fourth bay, (a) on background
of foliage, shield of the arms of Wolsey, on a cross
engrailed a lion passant between four leopards' faces,
in chief a rose between two Cornish choughs, surmounted by a cardinal's hat; (b) a grotesque
human face or leopard's head, above a coronet;
(c) a cardinal's hat; fifth bay, (a) on a wreath a
shield of the arms of Edward III; (b) three crowns;
(c) I.H.S.; sixth bay, (a) on a boss of foliage, a
large fleur-de-lis; (b) a rose and sprig; (c) a fleur-de-lis. In S. walk—first bay, (a) on background
of foliage, a crowned shield of the arms of
Henry VIII, with supporters of a dragon and
leopard (?) rampant; (b) and (c) I.H.S.; second
bay, (a) in wreath of foliage, arms of Edward III
encircled by a Garter; (b) emblems of the Passion;
(c) the Five Wounds; third bay, (a) I.H.S.,
crowned and with background of roses and pomegranates; (b) emblems of the Passion; (c) a cross
pierced with nails; fourth bay, (a) on ground of
pomegranates and roses, a cross avellane with two
birds on foliage below the arms of the cross;
(b) a fleur-de-lis; (c) a cross cut off at the ends;
fifth bay, (a) a large rose with a wreath of smaller
roses; (b) a rose (?); (c) three crowns. In W.
walk—first bay, (a) on ground of oak foliage,
I.H.S.; (b) and (c) rose and pomegranate sprays;
second bay, (a) a shield of the arms of Edward III;
(b) a triple rose; (c) I.H.S.; third bay, (a) St.
Stephen robed as a deacon, with man on either
side in 16th-century costume holding stones;
(b) and (c) as in first bay; fourth bay, (a) half
figure of the Almighty with right hand raised in
blessing, left hand holding orb, with irradiations
above and clouds below; (b) three crowns;
(c) I.H.S.; fifth bay, (a) on background of foliage,
seated figure of Virgin with Child; (b) and (c)
as in first bay; sixth bay, (a) on ground of foliage
the pepper-sheaves and three interlaced sickles,
forming a Hungerford and Hastings badge,
encircled with a garter; (b) pomegranate spray;
(c) fleur-de-lis.
The " Oratory " (18¼ ft. by 12 ft.) has a semi-octagonal E. end. It was greatly damaged in the
fire of 1834, and with the exception of the vaulted
roof to the ground floor has been practically
rebuilt. The lower floor is in three bays, with a
semi-hexagonal bay at the E. end and has fanvaulting similar to that over the cloister walks.
The main ribs spring from attached shafts having
moulded capitals and bases and the horizontal
rib marking the edge of the cones is enriched with
a row of carved brattishing; the soffit of the
vaulting is panelled and some of the quatrefoils
enclose square paterae carved with I.H.S. in black
letter. Externally, the "Oratory" is of similar
character to the walks, but the windows are
of two lights each; the lower being pointed and
the upper square-headed. The upper floor is
generally similar to the floor below, but the roof
is entirely modern, all the stonework has been
repaired, and little of the original work remains.
Condition—Of hall, chapel and cloister, good,
much restored.
(25). The Jewel House stands to the S.E. of
the Abbey—immediately E. of the Farmery
Chapel. It is of three storeys; the walls are of
Reigate and other limestone rubble, with later
stone and brick repairs; the roof is covered with
lead. In 1377 the land on which it stands was
conveyed by the convent of Westminster to
Edward III and the building was erected shortly
afterwards. It is L-shaped in plan, with the
wings extending towards the N. and E., and has
on the N. end a projecting stair-turret; modern
buildings have been erected round the ground-storey on the N. and E. sides, and the lower part
of the original staircase has been removed, access
to the first floor now being obtained by a modern
staircase leading to the E. wing of the building.

The Jewel House
The building was much altered in the 18th century,
and the parapet wall and the top of the stair-turret
are of that period. On the ground-floor the room
in the E. wing has a stone vault with hollowchamfered diagonal and wall-ribs springing from
attached octagonal angle-shafts with moulded
capitals covered with plaster; in the E. wall is
a blocked doorway with a four-centred rear-arch
covered with modern slates and the windows in
the N. and S. walls are round-headed, mostly
rebuilt and partly repaired with modern brick.
The room in the main wing (Plate 192) is vaulted in
two bays and has hollow-chamfered main, intermediate and ridge ribs springing from octagonal
wall-shafts with moulded capitals and bases, the
latter being almost entirely defaced; at the intersection of the ribs are carved bosses (Plate 193),
including some of conventional foliage, some of
grotesque heads, one of four grotesque faces with
wide-open mouths, meeting at the base, one of
three intertwined birds, and one of grotesque heads
above a triple rose. The E. wall has in the N. bay
a window, modern except for the segmental-pointed
hollow-chamfered rear-arch and the splays. In the
S. bay is a doorway with chamfered jambs and re-cut
segmental head and rear-arch. In the N. wall the
doorway from the stair-turret has a modern brick
head and chamfered jambs and the window in the
S. wall is all modern except some re-cut dressings
to the splays. The N. bay of the W. wall has
been almost entirely refaced with 17th-century
brick. On the first floor the E. wing has a rebuilt
barrel-vault; the doorway from the modern stairs
has been made through an original window-opening
and the windows in the N. and S. walls have been
rebuilt, in the W. wall is a doorway with a chamfered two-centred head, all covered with plaster.
The room in the main wing has an 18th-century
stone vault in which some old material may have
been incorporated; the windows have also been
rebuilt; the doorway in the N. wall has hollowchamfered jambs and shouldered head and rear-arch; all the dressings are covered with paint or
plaster. The top storey has in the N. wall a
doorway with a shouldered head and a 17th-century door having strap-hinges. The staircase
from the first floor to the top storey has walls of
ashlar.
Condition—Good.
(26). The Banqueting House, Whitehall
(Plate 194), now the museum of the Royal
United Service Institution, on the E. side of
Whitehall, 600 yards N. of the Abbey, is of two
storeys; the side walls are faced with Portland
stone and the end walls, where exposed, with cement;
the roof is covered with lead. It is built on the site
of the former Banqueting House of the old Palace
of Whitehall, and is the only part of the proposed
new palace designed by Inigo Jones which was
ever erected. The building, which cost £14,940,
was begun in 1619 and completed in 1622 and,
though never consecrated, was used as a Chapel
Royal from 1724 to 1890. The N. annexe for the
staircase and vestibule was added or rebuilt by
James Wyatt in 1798, and the exterior stonework
which had fallen into decay was recased by Soane
in 1829–37, when the interior was refitted and
restored under the supervision of Sir Robert
Smirke. Work done in 1891 included the plastering of the brick vaulting to the lower floor and the
opening out of the lower windows. The ceiling to
the upper room was painted by Rubens under a
commission from Charles I. Sketches were made
in England, but the actual painting was executed
in Antwerp and completed in 1635. According to
Sir Godfrey Kneller, Rubens was assisted in the
work by Jordaens. It has been restored five
times; in the reign of George II by Kent; in 1785
by Cipriani; in 1837 under Smirke; again later
in the 19th century, and lastly in 1906–7 under
H.M. Office of Works. The whole ceiling was then
taken down, the canvases taken off the old frames,
cleaned, repaired, remounted on laminated boarding
which was refixed to the original frames after they
had been carefully restored and repaired.
The building is beautifully proportioned and of
peculiar interest as being the first erected in this
country on purely Palladian lines. The fine
painted ceiling is noteworthy.

Whitehall Palace, Banqueting House
Elevations: The elevation to Whitehall is
symmetrical and in seven bays, with the three
middle bays slightly projecting. The lower storey
is in the form of a rusticated podium with plain
plinth and blocking course and square-headed
windows with rusticated arches. The upper storey
is in two stages of superimposed Ionic and Composite orders with continuous entablature having
enriched members and modillioned cornices. In
the central projection the bays are divided by
attached columns, and the two bays on either side
by pilasters, the end pilasters being coupled. The
windows to the lower stage are square-headed with
eared architraves flanked by narrow panelled
pilasters with shaped brackets supporting a cornice
with alternate segmental and triangular pediments;
the windows to the upper stage are of similar
character but the pediments are omitted. The
windows originally had solid frames but are now
fitted with sashes. The general wall-face to both
stages is rusticated and below the level of the
sills to the lower stage is a plain dado with
moulded base and capping, and turned balusters
below the three middle windows. Between the
capitals to the upper order is a frieze with carved
masks and fruit swags; the cornice is surmounted by an open balustrade with a double
plinth and turned balusters. The elevation to
Whitehall Gardens is similar to the W. front, the
N. end is covered by the staircase annexe and the
S. end by the modern buildings of the Royal
United Services Institution, but along the upper
part of both ends the open balustrade is continued.
At the W. end of the building is a wrought-iron
weather-vane, erected under James II.
Interior: The lower room (108 ft. by 52 ft.) is
divided into seven bays longitudinally and three
bays across by two rows of square piers. Each bay
has a groined plaster vault separated by flat ribs
continued down as pilasters on the face of each pier
and with corresponding wall-pilasters. In the
middle bay in the N. and S. walls is a segmental-headed doorway. The upper room (108 ft. by
52½ ft.) is in seven bays (Plate 196) and divided
into two stages by a continuous gallery. Between
the bays are fluted Ionic half-columns supporting a
continuous entablature; from the frieze project
enriched brackets carrying a widely projecting
cornice forming the gallery, which has a wooden
balustrade with moulded plinth and handrail and
symmetrically-turned balusters. The N. end is in
three bays with the gallery to the middle bay
projecting into the hall and supported at either
end on coupled Ionic columns. In each bay is
a square-headed doorway with moulded architraves
flanked by panelled pilasters with shaped brackets
carrying a moulded cornice; above each is a sunk
rectangular panel; the middle doorway is taller
than those to the side bays and has an eared
architrave. The S. wall is also in three bays but
there is no central projection, the brackets supporting the gallery are omitted, the frieze is pulvinated
and the bed-mould to the cornice is enriched with
egg-and-dart ornament. Above the gallery the
bays are divided by Corinthian pilasters supporting
an entablature with an enriched cornice; between
the capitals is a frieze painted with swags. Above
windows of the lower range are recessed rectangular
panels; above the gallery in the S. wall is a large
round-headed window, now opening into the stair
case of the Royal United Service Institution; the
exterior is of stone and has moulded archivolt and
plain pilasters with moulded imposts and bases.
The doorways in the end walls of the gallery are
square-headed with moulded architraves and
cornices. The ceiling is divided into nine painted
panels by deep false beams round which the main
cornice is returned; the middle panel is oval and
the soffits and sides of the beams are enriched with
gilded guilloche and scroll-ornament, and at the intersections, in the middle of the longitudinal beams
and at either end of the oval panel are rosettes.
The middle panel (a) represents the Apotheosis of
James I (Plate 195); the King holds a sceptre
and is seated in the lower end of the painting with
one foot on a globe, the other on the wing of a
flying eagle; above him are angels with the crown
and orb, others with trumpets, wreaths, etc., and
attendant figures representing Religion, Zeal,
Honour and Victory. The middle N. panel (b) is
an allegorical representation of James I and the
birth and crowning of Prince Charles; the King is
crowned and seated on a throne on the right of the
painting with attendant figures and is pointing to
Prince Charles, a nude boy-child supported by two
female figures in drapery, with a third figure of a
man in plumed helm behind; in the upper part
of the picture are two cherubs holding a crowned
cartouche of the Stuart arms and a garland of
roses; the background is an architectural composition. The middle S. panel (c) represents the
King seated on a throne within an architectural
composition attended on the right by Peace and
Plenty embracing Minerva, and, on the left, by
Wisdom in a plumed helm with a thunderbolt in
her right hand and in her left a shield driving
Rebellion in a cloak, body armour, helmet and
flaming torch, down into hell; at the bottom of
the painting is Mercury in winged helm and holding
his caduceus, laying the figures to sleep. The side
panels from N. to S. represent on the E. side, (d)
oval painting of Heroic Virtue as Hercules with
club upraised and foot on Envy and a female
figure with snakes in hair and serpent round arm;
(e) oblong panel representing the Peace and Plenty
of the reign of James I, with procession of cherubs
carrying a cornucopia filled with fruit, Bacchus as
a child riding on the back of a ram harnessed to a
chariot laden with fruit drawn also by a monster;
in front, cherub riding a tiger; (f) oval painting
representing Royal Bounty—a seated male figure
with halo and flowing hair pouring largess from a
cornucopia, at feet of figure Avarice; (g) oval
painting representing Government as seated figure
with bridle in hands and nude male figure of
Rebellion at her feet; (h) oblong panel representing
Harmony and Happiness with chariot laden with
cornucopia of fruit and seated children and drawn
by lion with cherub tickling his ear and another
drawing his tooth; in front are sporting cherubs
with a thick rope of fruit; (i) oval panel of Heroic
Charity as Minerva in plumed helm and armour
destroying with a spear Lust, a nude female figure;
above Minerva is an owl holding a wreath.
Condition—Good.
(27). Malmesbury House, remains of York or
Whitehall Palace, etc., 50 yards E. of (26). The
18th-century house incorporates a vaulted undercroft of early 16th-century date. The walls are of
brick with stone dressings and the exterior of the
building is modern.

Whitehall Palace, Malmesbury House Undercroft.
The Undercroft, formerly the Beer Cellar
(Plate 197) is two bays in width; the original
length is uncertain, but there are four complete
bays and remains of a fifth. Each bay has
a quadripartite vault of brick with chamfered
ribs springing from moulded corbels against the
walls and octagonal piers with moulded capitals
in the middle. The vault was plastered, but a
portion of the plaster has been removed to show
the brick web. The original floor-level is said to
have been 5 ft. 4 in. below the present level. In
the E. wall of the W. bay is a stone doorway with
moulded jambs and four-centred arch in a square
head; the spandrels have much weathered carving
of foliage and shields, one apparently bearing the
ancient arms of the See of York impaling Wolsey.
The vaulting cuts into the splay-mouldings of the
arch in a way that implies that the vault is a later
addition, probably of the time of Henry VIII. In
the S. bay of the E. wall is a shallow recess with
chamfered jambs and four-centred head.
A short distance E. of the N. end of the undercroft is a length of rag-stone rubble walling, part of
the old palace, and still further E. again is a small
water-gate or boat-house, probably of early 17th-century date. The E. front is of stone repaired
with cement and divided into three bays by Doric
columns with heavy rustications. The plain frieze
and moulded cornice support a rather steep-pitched
pediment with a blocked lunette in the tympanum.
Condition—Good.
(28). The Treasury, on the W. side of Whitehall, has been refaced and very largely rebuilt, but
incorporates parts of a building erected by Cardinal
Wolsey or Henry VIII, early in the 16th century.
The rest of the block is of various dates, and is
chiefly the work of W. Kent, 1733, Sir J. Soane
1824–28 and Sir Charles Barry 1846–7. The surviving old work forms a two-storeyed corridor
running E. and W. in the middle of the building;
the walls are of brick with stone dressings, much
cut about and altered. The N. side has at the
basement-level an original opening with a three-centred head and in the upper storey a window of
three four-centred and transomed lights in a square
head. In the S. wall is a similar window of two
lights without a transom and now covered with
cement. At the basement-level is an original
doorway with chamfered jambs and four-centred
head. The corridor is 10 ft. wide and is probably
that shown on the old plans of Whitehall, leading
to the Cock-pit.
Condition—Good, much altered.
(29). St. James' Palace (Plates 198, 199) stands
on the N. side of the Mall. The walls are of brick,
with some stone dressings, and the roofs are covered
with lead, slates and tiles. The original house was
built by Henry VIII on the site of the Hospital of St.
James, dissolved in 1532. The house then consisted
of ranges of building surrounding four courts (Colour
Court, Ambassadors' Court, Friary Court and
another court W. of the last named) and probably
subsidiary buildings in addition. During the
second half of the 17th century extensive alterations were made, a new range, including the present
Throne Room fronting the park, added, the range
containing the Banquet Room and that containing
the State Kitchen built, and a block built W. of
the kitchen. The stables on the N. side of Stable
Yard were built in 1661. Early in the 18th
century the Banquet Room range was largely
rebuilt and extended. In 1809 a fire destroyed
the whole of the S.E. part of the house, including
the E. and S. ranges of the Friary Court; in the
subsequent repairs the garden wing was extended
further E. There are numerous other modern
alterations and additions which are indicated on
the plan and which it will be unnecessary to
particularise.
The buildings include the much altered remains
of a large Tudor house, of which the ceiling of
the chapel and the gatehouse are the most interesting features.
The buildings are grouped round four courts
called Colour, Friary, Engine and Ambassadors'
Court, respectively. The main entrance is by the
Clock Tower, or great gatehouse, which stands on
the N. side of Colour Court. The tower (Plate 200)
is of four storeys, with octagonal turrets at the
angles and an embattled and modern crow-stepped
parapet to the front and back. The two front
turrets are splayed out on to a square base which
contains a small doorway with splayed jambs and a
four-centred arch in a square head with a moulded
label and foliated spandrels with a Tudor rose
and the initials H.A. and a crown; at the angles
of the base are much-restored octagonal shafts.
The main archway has a four-centred head which
has been raised. It contains the original doors
of two folds each, with moulded styles and rails
and nine linen-fold panels. The three storeys
have each a much restored window of three four-centred lights in a square head. The windows of
the turrets were originally of one four-centred light,
but have mostly been altered. The back elevation
of the gatehouse is generally similar to the front,
but the turrets do not rise so high and the windows
in them are mostly original; the S.E. turret has
a doorway similar to those in the outer turrets
and with a crowned H. and crowned portcullis
in the spandrels; the doorway to the S.W. turret
has chamfered jambs and four-centred head. In
the bell-turret, over the gatehouse, are three bells,
the largest by Samuell Owen, 1600.
The N. and E. wings of the Colour Court
(Plate 202) are part of the original structure, but
have been largely refaced and have later embattled
parapets. On the S. side of the N. wing are two
rainwater-heads with the crowned initials of William
and Mary. The old part of the E. wing terminates
in two octagonal turrets; that on the inside has
black brick diapering; the windows, where
original, are similar to those in the turrets of the
clock-tower; the outer turret has a modern
passage-way pierced at the base. The E. range
has two rainwater-heads, similar to those above
described, but with the date 1696 in place of the
crown. The S. side of the Colour Court is modern.
On the W. side is the chapel-royal, an original
building, much altered and restored externally.
Against its E. side is an open colonnade, with
stone columns of the Doric order and a plain
wooden entablature, all probably of late 17th-century date. The chapel-royal has on each side
a projecting bay or transept with octagonal shafts
or pilasters at the angles; in each upper storey
of the transept ends are two much restored windows,
each of three four-centred and transomed lights;
between each pair of windows is a projecting stack,
that on the E. having black brick diapering; in
the base of the E. stack is a late 17th-century
doorway of stone, with segmental head, eared
architrave and small scrolls under the ears; below
the southern window in the W. transept is a third
window of three lights in a square head. The N.
end of the chapel has been largely refaced; it contains a large restored window of five four-centred
lights in a square head and with a transom;
the window has been continued down below a
second transom in modern times and is flanked by
two entirely modern windows. The range S. of
the chapel has been much altered and has a late
17th-century or later addition on the E. side;
at the four angles were octagonal turrets of which
three still remain; they are similar to those on
the E. wing of the Colour Court. Passing through
this range is a corridor with an original arch
(Plate 201) at each end, both with splayed jambs
and four-centred heads; the opening to the colonnade in Colour Court is flanked by late 17th-century pilasters. In 1925, under Colour Court,
portions of the foundations of the N. wall of a
building were found, with some mediaeval slip-tiles
in situ. From the presence of burials both inside
and outside the building it would appear that it
was the chapel of the Hospital.

St. James' Palace, Plan of Ground Floor

St. James' Palace, Plan of State Apartments (1st floor)
The Ambassadors' Court (Plate 203) lies to the W.
of the Colour Court. The range on the N. side has
some original brick work on both the N. and S.
faces, but has been almost entirely altered, and the
entrance-archway is modern; on the N. face are
three original windows, two of three lights and
one of a single light, all with four-centred heads.
York House, which forms the continuation of this
range is in part an original building, but has been
entirely refaced and now has no ancient features.
The range on the S. side includes the Banquet
Room, but the side facing the court is probably an
addition to the late 17th-century range, which
appears to have been of less width.
The state kitchen, standing W. of the Banquet
House, is probably a late 17th-century building
and has a deep band-course, above which the
walls seem to have been refaced, probably in 1772,
when the roof was rebuilt. On the W. side of
the court is another 17th-century building, much
altered.
The Friary Court lies to the N. of the Colour
Court. The eastern part was burnt and not
rebuilt in 1809. Parts of the W. and N. sides
are original and the old brickwork remains with a
later embattled parapet and a modern loggia
against the W. wall. Under the loggia are three
original windows; one of a single light and complete with its four-centred head and the other
two formerly of three lights but now lacking their
mullions and cut square at the head. On the N.
wall is a 17th-century rainwater-head with the
crowned initials C.R.
The State apartments form a long range fronting
on the S. (Plate 204) towards the garden and
St. James' Park and on the N. chiefly towards
the Engine Court. The range is of three storeys
and of stock brick and was built late in
the 17th century, except a part at the E.
end containing Queen Anne's Room, which is
modern. There are moulded band-courses, on
the S. front, between the ground and first and
above the second floor; above the second band
is an attic with an embattled parapet and a range
of blind window-panels. There are similar panels
to the second floor, pierced for windows towards
the western end only. The first floor has a
range of tall square-headed windows, and the
ground-floor a range of much smaller windows;
there are five lead rainwater-heads, with lions'
heads, on this side. On the N. front there are
three ranges of window-panels of which only those
to the ground-floor are pierced for windows, and
two plain chimney-stacks with original tabled
offsets of stone; there are also three rainwaterheads similar to those on the S. front.
Interior: The gate-hall of the Clock Tower has
in the E. wall a wide recess with splayed jambs
and four-centred arch of stone and a brick relieving
arch; in the narrow apartment to the E. of it are
two original doorways, with chamfered jambs and
four-centred and straight-sided heads respectively.
In the S.W. turret is a newel staircase with original
steps of oak at the top. The turrets on the E. side
of the Colour Court and in the S.E. angle of the
Ambassadors' Court also have original stairs.
The Chapel Royal (70 ft. by 23 ft. and 50 ft.
across the transepts) follows the normal form of a
college-chapel, consisting of a rectangular presbytery and an ante-chapel in the form of a transept
across the W. end (Plate 205). The fittings and
arrangements are all modern except the original
ceiling, said to be painted by Holbein, and the
plate. The ceiling, put up in 1540, has been
repaired and most of the panels have been touched
up and partly repainted from time to time. The
ceiling is flat, with a cove at each side, and round
the walls is a moulded cornice enriched with roses,
fleurs-de-lis, leaves and conventional scrolled ornament; the main area is divided up by moulded ribs,
with similar conventional ornament, into a series
of octagonal, cross-shaped and lozenge panels with
larger panels in the coves; all these panels are
painted with shields, devices, mottoes, etc., with
conventional enrichments. The main panels in
the coves from the N. end contain the following—
E. side, (a) crowned initials H.R. and date 1540;
(b) shield of France and England quarterly with
lion and dragon supporters; (c) a quartered shield
of Cleves; (d) Tudor rose; (e) fleur-de-lis; (f) sunburst; (g) shield of France and England quarterly
impaling the same lion and dragon supporters and
motto "Dieu et mon droit"; (h) portcullis with
inscription "vivat rex"; (i) as (g), but with
motto of the Garter; (j) Tudor rose; (k) shield
of France and England quarterly with motto
as (g); (l) initials H.R. and inscription "H.R.
Aetatis 50 A.D. 1540"; (m) as (g). W. side,
(a) shield of France and England quarterly impaling
the quartered augmentation granted to Anne
Boleyn; (b) France and England quarterly with
the Garter; (c) quartered shield of Cleves; (d)
Tudor rose; (e) fleur-de-lis; (f) a sun-burst with
the inscription "Henricus Rex"; (g) crowned
shield of France and England quarterly; (h) Tudor
rose; (i) shield of France and England quarterly
quartered with the same and the motto "Dieu et
mon droit"; (j) Tudor rose; (k) as (g); (l) fleur-de-lis; (m) as (i). The octagonal and cross-shaped panels bear the royal arms and badges, etc.
—fleur-de-lis, harp, dagger, rose, sun-burst, crowned
hart, Prince-of-Wales' feathers, portcullis, a ram,
initials, etc.; the small lozenge panels mostly bear
inscriptions, including the royal mottoes, "Stet diu
felix," the date 1540, initials of Henry and Anne
of Cleves, etc. Fittings—Plate (Plate 203): includes
the following pieces of gold—cup with baluster
stem and hexagonal foot, bowl with arms of
William and Mary; cup similar to above, but
with the name Jesus in Greek capitals on the
knot of the stem; two patens with the same arms
encircled by the garter; paten with a sexfoiled
sinking enclosing the arms of William and Mary;
all these are apparently of late 17th-century date.
The silver-gilt plate includes—cup with pierced
overlay of repoussé flowers, enriched baluster stem
and hexagonal stem with cherub-heads at the
points, Stuart arms with garter on bowl, temp.
Charles II; cup of 1664 with Stuart arms and
garter and initials A.R., cover with a crown and
the same initials; two late 17th-century cups
with the arms and initials of William and Mary,
enriched baluster stems and scalloped base; cup
with Stuart arms, garter and initials D.L., baluster
stem and hexagonal base with cherub-heads at
points, temp. Charles II; two cover-patens with
Stuart arms and garter, same period as last; two
patens with rich border of repoussé flowers, in
middle arms and initials of William and Mary;
two cover-patens, with spiral design of repoussé
flowers and acanthus edging, crowned initials of
William and Mary; stand-paten of 1714, with
arms and initials of George I; pair of candlesticks
of 1661, with repoussé cherubs and festoons of
fruit and flowers, stem chased with acanthus,
triangular base with Stuart arms, royal crest and
garter and D.L. monogram; pair of candlesticks of
repoussé work with richly moulded stem and
triangular base, temp. Charles II; alms-dish
(Plate 207) of 1660, with repoussé subject in middle,
of Last Supper, with a small shield of the Stuart
arms, rim with scrolled repoussé ornament and
four panels with the following subjects—(a) Christ
washing the disciples' feet; (b) the meeting on the
way to Emmaus; (c) Christ appearing to the
disciples after the Resurrection; (d) the Pentecost;
alms-dish of 1660, with repoussé foliage and
flowers, and a horse, stag, boar and cow, in middle
a rose and crown with the initials A.R. altered
from C.R.; two alms-dishes of repoussé work,
with rose and crown in a wreath and four cherubheads on rim, late 17th-century; verger's staff,
a tapering rod probably of early 18th-century date;
two flagons of pitcher-shape with feather enrichment and a crowned rose on front; two flagons,
of 1660, of ordinary straight-sided form and
decoration similar to last pair; two flagons of
same form, but with repoussé ornament of foliage
and flowers, both with a crowned rose and one
with initials C.R. in addition, temp. Charles II;
plain flagon of 1660 with an incorrect shield of the
arms of William III and the initials A.R.; two
flagons with incised ornament on bases and with
Stuart arms and garter and initials D.L., temp.
Charles II; an urn-shaped pitcher of 1692 with
lid, spout and handle, conventional foliage and the
arms and initials of William III; the first silver
cup and two of the flagons have stamped leather
cases, probably of late 17th-century date. There
are also the following pieces of plate used at
Marlborough Chapel—a paten of 1698 with the
arms and initials of William III; a paten with
the Stuart arms, garter and the monogram D.L.,
temp. Charles II and an alms-dish with the same
arms, etc., as the second paten. The Panelling of
the lower part of the E., S. and W. walls of the
chapel is probably of c. 1700, but is thickly painted;
the S. door is of two folds and has applied ribs and
tracery; the upper angles have the initials W.R.;
above this doorway are the royal Tudor arms
with lion and dragon supporters holding standards
with the rose and portcullis badges. Royal Arms:
over S. doorway—Tudor arms and supporters.
The sub-dean's Vestry, between the chapel and
the clock-tower, has an original fireplace with
stop-moulded jambs and four-centred arch in a
square head, with spandrels carved with foliage
and a fleur-de-lis. The room above (the Marshalman's Room) has two original doorways with
chamfered jambs and four-centred heads.
The Guard Room in the N. range of the Friary
Court has, in the N. wall, an original but restored
fireplace, with stop-moulded jambs and straight-sided four-centred arch in a square head, with a
frieze of quatrefoiled panels above.
The Armoury Room in the W. range of the same
court has a similar fireplace, now thickly painted;
the moulded cornice round the room is possibly
of late 17th-century date. The Tapestry Room
adjoins the Armoury Room on the S. and has a
similar, fireplace, but the quatrefoils of the frieze
have the following carved badges, etc.—H.A. with
a true lovers' knot, Tudor rose, fleur-de-lis, portcullis, and the crowned initial H.; the spandrels
are carved with foliage and a beast's head. The
walls are hung with a series of seven early 17th-century panels or parts of panels of Mortlake
tapestry (Plate 208), depicting the amours of Venus
and Mars; each panel, where complete, has a border
with the monogram of two C's with a crown, a
cartouche with the Prince of Wales' feathers, figures
of Ceres, Plenty, etc., and heads of Pan; the main
subjects represented are as follows—(a) Cupid and
Neptune, with the horses of the latter in the background; (b) Venus and Cupid standing by a chariot
drawn by swans; (c) Mars with attendant, Cupid
shooting from tree; (d) Venus sleeping in a forest,
Cupid creeping round tree; (e) Vulcan, assisted by
"Jalosie" and another woman, spreading the net
on a bed; (f) part of panel showing Vulcan's forge
and another fragment with the head of Pan;
(g) meeting of Mars and Venus in Vulcan's house.
In the modern Picture Gallery, adjoining this
range, is a stone fireplace, formerly in the palace
of Westminster, and with moulded and enriched
architrave, having small scrolls at the angles and
a richly carved frieze with fauns, foliage, the royal
Tudor arms, crowned rose and initials E.R.; in
the fireplace is an iron fire-back with the Tudor
arms, lion and greyhound supporters, the initials
E.R., and the inscription "Made in Sussex by
John Harvy" (?).
The range containing the State Apartments has
a basement with two late 17th-century barrel-vaults, and under the W. end are four rooms with
groined vaults of the same date. The State Rooms
have Renaissance decorations which may be partly
of late 17th-century date, but the whole has been
so altered and repaired that now it is not possible
to distinguish the old from the new.
In the E. wing of the Colour Court is a room
lined with late 17th-century bolection-moulded
panelling; the fireplace has a moulded marble
architrave of the same date, and above it is a
painted panel of the arms of William III, and,
still higher up, a carved panel with swags.
The Banquet House range, the state kitchen and
the block to the W. of the kitchen have all late
17th or early 18th-century groined vaults in the
basement. In the ground-floor of the S. part of
the Banquet House range is a late 17th-century
fireplace-opening with rounded angles, flat arch
and key-block. The state kitchen has three wide
fireplace-openings, two of which are now blocked.
In the upper part of the W. end are three tall
round-headed windows; the coved cornice is
pierced by fifteen round windows; in the middle
of the roof is a skylight-opening with a deep
moulded curb.
The Stables, on the N. side of the stable yard,
are said to have been built in 1661. The ground-floor has a loggia with brick piers and round
arches, all refaced in the 18th century. The upper
storey was added in the 19th century.
Condition—Good.
(30). Marlborough House (Plates 209, 210)
stands on the N. side of the Mall, and is of four
storeys with a basement. The walls are of red
brick with Portland-stone dressings and the roofs
are covered with slates and lead. The house was
designed by Sir Christopher Wren for the first
Duke of Marlborough, the foundation stone being
laid by the Duchess in 1709.
The house, as originally built, consisted of a
rectangular main block of two storeys only, with
wings at the E. and W. ends slightly projecting to
the N. and S. On the N. side was a courtyard
flanked by lower two-storeyed wings on the E. and
W. The southern half of both these wings had an
open loggia towards the courtyard. The blank
wall closing the courtyard on the N. has an ornamental alcove or recess in the middle and gateways
at each side. Sometime, probably in the 18th
century, an attic storey was added to the main
block. In the 19th century the house was further
altered, the main block again raised and a new
block added covering the S. side of the courtyard
and destroying the loggias of the side wings; the
side wings were also raised.

Malborough House, Plan of Ground Floor
Though much altered the house is a good example
of its period and the historical paintings and
original staircase are noteworthy.
The S. Elevation is in rubbed brick with rusticated stone quoins and plinth. The windows have
roll-moulded angles and flat arches; in the side
wings are round-headed niches with semi-domes of
carefully rubbed brick. The two top storeys are
modern, and the original part of the house is
finished with a heavy stone cornice. The old parts
of the N. Elevation are covered by a modern
addition. The E. and W. Elevations continue the
main lines of the S. Elevation and are each divided
up into three bays by rusticated pilasters. The
lower wings flanking the courtyard are original to
the top of the second storey, round which a stone
cornice is carried. Several original rainwaterheads remain with the date 1709. The former
loggias connecting these wings with the main block
have been entirely removed.
Interior—The interior has been so extensively
altered and redecorated that it is difficult to
distinguish the old work. The painted battlescenes (Plates 213–224) in the saloon and on the
two staircases are the work of Laguerre, executed
soon after the completion of the house.
The Saloon (Plates 211, 212) is of the full height
of the original house and has a large cupola in
the roof. The S., E. and W. walls at the
gallery-level are covered with large paintings
forming a continuous subject—the battle of
Blenheim; the main picture, on the S. wall,
represents the Duke of Marlborough surrounded
by his staff and about to receive the surrender
of Marshal Tallard; the subsidiary figures
include a troop of horse, wounded soldiers, etc.,
and fighting still going on in the background;
the subjects on the side walls represent incidents
of the battle, the principal figure on the W. being
probably intended for Prince Eugene. On the N.
wall, between the windows, are painted trophies-of-arms, etc. On the lower walls of the saloon are
hung four panels of Gobelin tapestry representing
scenes from the history of Don Quixote and
Sancho Panza. The main cornice, dividing the
room into two storeys, is probably original, and has
a frieze of oak leaves.
The Main Staircase, in the W. wing, is original
and has black marble steps, ornamental wrought-iron balusters (Plate 109) and a mahogany handrail; the panelled framing under the staircase has
oval openings. The pavement forms a chequer-work
of black and white marble and the panelled dado
is also original. The paintings on the E. and W.
walls are said to represent the battle of Ramillies;
the Duke and his staff, and probably Marshal Overkirk, appear on the W. wall; the actual fighting
is represented on the E. wall and in a panel on the
S. wall. There are also several separate subjects
including views of two large towns, probably
Brussels and Antwerp; a third town; a bridge over
a river, with a large round tower and a town in the
background; there are also monochrome figures of
Mars, Hercules, Peace (?) and History, trophies-of-arms and an achievement of the arms of Marlborough as a Prince of the Empire, the shield being
set on an imperial eagle.
The Visitors' Staircase, in the E. wing, is original
and has wrought-iron balusters (Plate 109) and
mahogany hand-rail; the steps are of stone but the
pavement is similar to that of the main staircase.
The paintings on the E., N. and W. walls are said to
represent the battle of Malplaquet; the Duke is
shown on the N. wall and the battle on the E. and
W. walls; there are also two separate subjects, a
landscape with a castle and a landscape with two
mounted men fighting; in the S. wall of the ground-floor is a landscape with troops, etc., and a town
(? Mons) in the background.
The other main rooms of the house have been
much altered and remodelled; the early plans of
the building showing partition walls across both the
existing drawing-room and dining-room.
In the basement at the N.E. angle of the main
block is the original foundation-stone inscribed
" Laid by Her Grace the Duchess of Marlborough
May ye 24th June ye 4th 1709."
The Courtyard in front of the house is bounded
by an ornamental enclosure-wall divided into bays
by rusticated pilasters with a continuous cornice
and an attic and balustraded parapet. The original
openings have segmental rusticated arches and
plain pediments, and these are repeated over the
three recesses in the alcove on the N. side of the
courtyard. (Plate 225).
Condition—Good.
(31). Buckingham Palace stands at the W. end
of St. James' Park, with the E. or main front facing
the Mall. Built originally for Lord Goring, in the
reign of James I, it was subsequently bought by
the Earl of Arlington and called Arlington House.
It was rebuilt by the Duke of Buckingham in 1703
with the main block on the site of what are now
the State apartments in the centre of the W. front.
In the reigns of George IV and William IV the house
was rebuilt on the old foundations. In recent
years a part of the existing ashlar front to the N.
side was removed, showing some dressings of rubbed
brick, so that some parts of the early 18th-century
walling above ground appear to have been incorporated in this rebuilding. A part of the early
basement exists below the main W. block and has
quadripartite vaulting of brick, carried on square
brick piers with capping and base of projecting
brick courses. The doorway leading to this part
of the basement has the original frame and door
with moulded panels.
Condition—Good.
(32). Schomberg House (the old War Office),
on S. side of Pall Mall, 160 yards E. of St. James's
Street, is of four storeys and a basement. The
walls are of brick, with plastered stone dressings,
and the roofs are covered with slates and lead.
The house is now a rough T-shape on plan with
the cross-wing at the W. end; a corresponding E.
wing was pulled down in 1850. A house appears
to have been built on the site about the middle of
the 17th century, and the S. end of the W. wing
is probably of that date; the remainder of the
house was rebuilt at the end of the same century,
c. 1698, by the third Duke of Schomberg; shortly
after 1765 the house was divided into three and
the central porch added.
The N. Elevation (Plate 159) has a slight projection
making a central feature to the main block; the
angles to both this and the W. wing have rusticated
quoins of plastered stone and the walls are finished
with a coved cornice enriched with acanthus-leaf
brackets. The central feature is in three bays,
with the middle one slightly projecting, and the
cornice is carried up in a pediment with a plastered
tympanum; the entrance-porch is of the 18th
century, and the window on the E. of it is modern;
the other windows are square-headed with rubbed
brick arches and plain keystones. The W. wing
has a square-headed doorway flanked by Ionic
columns supporting an entablature with a modillioned cornice, the whole entablature being carried
round the N. return wall. Between the central
feature and the W. wing are two modern windows
on the ground-floor, but all the upper windows are
original and similar to those described above,
except the three on the return N. wall of the W.
wing, which are blocked. One lead rainwaterhead is dated 1698 and a door to the basement has
moulded panels. The S. front to the main block
has square-headed windows with rubbed brick
dressings and quoins of the same material. The
wall is finished with a modillioned cornice and
cornice and pediment, in the tympanum of which
is a circular window. The projecting S. end of the
W. wing is of three storeys and a basement, and
is of brick with Portland-stone dressings; the E.
wall has to each floor a semi-circular niche with
keystone, moulded sill and panelled apron; that
on the first floor has had a window inserted; the
basement has a semi-circular headed doorway. In
the S. wall is a segmental-headed window to the
ground-floor with moulded architrave and moulded
segmental pediment, the first and second floors
have similar windows, but the former has a carved
keystone and triangular pediment and the latter is
without a pediment. In the angle made by this
wing and the main block is a rainwater-head dated
1698. The interior of the house has been greatly
altered and contains little original work. The
S.W. wing retains on the ground and first floors
some original moulded cornices and above the
middle of the building is a lead-covered cupola
which probably marks the site of the original
staircase.
Condition—Structurally sound but, internally,
much dilapidated.
(33). Norfolk House stands at the S. end of the
E. side of St. James' Square. The present house
was built 1742–56 and stands to the W. of the
former building, from which it is separated by a large
courtyard. The remaining block of old Norfolk
House is of three storeys with attics; the walls
are of brick and the roofs are covered with slate.
It was built in the latter half of the 17th century
and the old remains are part of the front block of
the original building. The old house appears to
have been greatly altered in the middle of the 18th
century, probably when the new house was built;
it was partly demolished and the front wall was
entirely refaced and remodelled; the moulded
wood cornice, however, was probably retained and
refixed; the interior was again altered at subsequent dates and little original work remains.
Inside the building on the first floor at the S. end
of the house was one large room, two storeys in
height; at the N. end later partitions have been
inserted and the N. wall has been removed, but
the whole of the ceiling, which was coved above
the cornice, remains; the cornice is enriched and
has dentils, and the ceiling, which is divided by
enriched plaster-work of French character, was
painted by Sir James Thornhill; S. of the inserted
partition most of this painting remains, though in
a dilapidated condition, and along the partition
the old cornice from the original N. wall has been
refixed. The subjects of the paintings are scenes
from the life of Hercules; the central depicts his
apotheosis, with Jupiter, crowned with a wreath,
in the middle and the other Olympians grouped
round; other panels include (a) Hercules wrestling
with Death for the body of Alcestis; (b) the fight
with the Nemean lion; (c) the capture of the Cretan
bull, and in one of the smaller panels the infant
Hercules is represented strangling the serpents.
In the N. room on the first floor is a square fireplace-opening with a bolection-moulded marble
surround; three doorways on this floor have
enriched architraves and six-panelled doors; all
probably of early 18th-century date, but two have
been refixed.
Condition—Externally and structurally good,
but painted ceiling in a poor state of preservation.
(34). Burlington House, on the N. side of
Piccadilly, 200 yards W.N.W. of St. James' church,
was built by Sir John Denham in 1665. It was,
however, rearranged internally and refronted by
Lord Burlington about 1716, and again much
altered in 1817–20 by Lord George Cavendish.
The original block is that on the N. side of the
quadrangle; it retains its original general form of
a main block with cross-wings at the E. and W.
ends; the core of the main walls is probably
original, but all the details now visible are of 18th-century or modern date.
Condition—Good.
(35). Harrington House, on E. side of Craig's
Court, 50 yards E. of Charing Cross, is of three
storeys with a basement and two-storeyed modern
attics. The walls are of brick with painted stone
dressings; the roofs are modern. The house was
built c. 1702; slight alterations were made later
in the same century and within recent years two
upper storeys have been added in place of the
original attics, additions built on the back, and
certain internal alterations made and partitions
inserted.
The front or W. elevation has a slightly projecting
central block; the angles of this and the S.W.
corner have rusticated stone quoins, and there are
projecting stone bands at the first and second-floor levels and a heavy modillioned cornice at the
original eaves-level; this cornice is surmounted by a
stone balustrade now cut into by the modern brick
piers of the two top storeys. The porch and the
window above form a feature in the middle of the
front; the former has flanking Ionic columns, with
pilasters behind, and entablatures, the architrave
and frieze of which return on to the main wall;
the upper part of the cornice is carried across as a
roof to the porch and is surmounted by a balustrade forming a balcony; the doorway is round-headed and was altered later in the century. The
window above is square-headed and has a moulded
stone architrave, flanked by Ionic pilasters supporting an entablature. The remaining original windows to the middle block, one to each floor on either
side of the central feature and three on the second
floor, are all square-headed and have moulded
stone architraves. There are three windows on
each floor of the N. wing and two on each floor of
the S. wing, all square-headed and with rubbed
brick jambs and arches. The S. elevation is covered
with cement and the N. and E. fronts have been
built against. Inside, the building has been
considerably altered. The entrance hall in the
front of the middle block contains the main staircase; it is two storeys in height and is lined with
original panelling up to the dado on the first floor
and above with later panelling surmounted by an
original plaster cornice. The staircase, perhaps
inserted after the building of the house, rises in
three flights up to the first floor and has a moulded
handrail, carved scroll-brackets at the end of each
step, newels in the form of fluted Corinthian
columns and alternating fluted and twisted
balusters. In the W. end of both the N. and S.
walls is a round-headed opening with moulded
archivolt carried on panelled pilasters with moulded
caps and bases. Some of the ground-floor rooms
have original plaster cornices and the front room
of the S. wing has a panelled dado and original
fireplace with white marble bolection-moulded
surround. On the first floor the large S.E. room is
lined with original panelling, now partly covered,
and has an original plaster cornice enriched with
acanthus leaf. The northernmost room is also
lined with original panelling and has an original
fireplace with square head and bolection-moulded
surround. The adjoining room has a panelled
dado and a similar fireplace to the one just described
with some old Dutch tiles reset round a modern
grate; the doorway between the two rooms has a
bolection-moulded architrave. Portions of the
original panelling are retained on other parts of the
first floor and on the second floor the northernmost
room is lined throughout with plain panelling and
has an original cornice and fireplace. One other
room has an original fireplace and some of the
rooms retain portions of panelling. One flight of
the secondary staircase is original and has a
moulded handrail and turned balusters.
Condition—Good.
(36). York Gate, formerly the water-gate of
York House, stands 260 yards E. of St. Martin in
the Fields and at the S. end of Buckingham
Street. The building is of Portland stone and was
executed by Nicholas Stone from the designs of Inigo
Jones in 1626, for George, 1st Duke of Buckingham.

York Gate
The S. front (Plate 229) is in three bays divided by
attached Doric columns with heavy rustications and
supporting an entablature; the middle bay rises
higher than the others and has a segmental pediment capped with a scallop-shell and enclosing a
carved cartouche of the Villiers arms with garter
and coronet; the side bays are each surmounted
by a seated lion holding a shield with an anchor.
Each bay of the front contains a round-headed,
rusticated arch with plain key-stone and moulded
imposts; the middle opening is carried down to
the ground, but the side openings are stopped at
the level of the platform behind. The side elevations have columns and opening similar to the side
bays of the front. The N. or back elevation has
Tuscan pilasters between the bays supporting a
continuous entablature surmounted by four pedestals with balls; on the frieze is the motto "Fidei
coticula crux." The three arches are round-headed, but the masonry is not rusticated and the
key-stones have each a cartouche—the middle with
the arms of Villiers impaling Manners, and the side
ones the anchor of Buckingham's admiralship.
The interior of the gate is divided into three
bays by two cross arcades each of two round-headed arches resting on one free and two engaged
columns; between the columns is a wooden
balustrade with turned balusters. The middle bay
contains a flight of seven steps.
Condition—Good.
(37). Greycoat Hospital, S.E. side of Greycoat
Place, Westminster, is of two storeys with attics.
The walls are of brick and the entrance doorway of
stone; the roofs are tiled. The hospital was
founded in 1698, and moved to its present position
in 1701, the site having previously been occupied
by a workhouse erected under the Elizabethan
Poor Law. Though there is no record of this, the
old part of the present structure would appear to
have been rebuilt either immediately before or
after it was taken over by the Hospital. It is
built on a half H-shaped plan with the cross-wings
projecting towards the N.W. and a small slightly
projecting bay in the middle of the main block.
A new cupola was built and the original clock fixed
therein in 1735. Later additions have been made
to both ends of the building, and the two crosswings connected on the front by a modern corridor
a few feet in front of the main block.
The entrance-front is of brick with a plain
projecting band at the first-floor level and a
heavily moulded eaves-cornice, which breaks round
the wings. The roofs are hipped and have flat
dormer-windows. The central bay is of painted
cement and has a pointed pediment above the
cornice. The entrance-doorway has Doric pilasters
supporting an entablature with triglyphs and
pointed pediment, and above, on the first floor, is
an achievement of the arms of Queen Anne (after
the union) flanked by two niches, the left containing
the carved figure of a boy, the right that of a girl,
both in the costume of greycoat children of the
period. The windows have square frames with
sashes. Inside, the building follows a practically
symmetrical plan. On the ground-floor the S.E.
room has an original flat stone surround to the
fireplace and the N.E. room an original panelled
door. Each of the projecting wings has an original
staircase with moulded handrail and string, turned
balusters and square newel-posts. That in the
easternmost wing is the larger and has ball-finials
and moulded pendants to the newel-posts. On
the first floor the N. room in the E. wing has a
square framed dado. The S. room in this wing
is the Board Room and is panelled from floor
to ceiling with original panelling with bolection
mouldings and heavy cornice. On seven of the
upper panels are canvases painted by Richard Van
Bluck with portraits of people connected with the
hospital. The fireplace has a bolection-moulded
stone surround with key-block. The Assembly
Hall occupies the whole of the middle block and
extends to the roof; at each end is a modern
gallery. Supporting a beam at the E. end are two
pilasters of the Composite order and on the N.E.
wall are four panels with allegorical paintings
representing Faith, Hope, Charity and Justice. The
hall appears to have originally had a flat ceiling.
There are two fireplaces with bolection-moulded
surrounds of stone. The furniture belonging to the
hospital includes fourteen Queen Anne chairs and
a large gate-legged table.
Condition—Good.
(38). Bluecoat School, (Plate 225) on the S. side
of Caxton Street, Westminster, 100 yards W. of
Christ Church, is of one storey with cellars. The
walls are of red and yellow bricks with rubbed
brick and stone dressings; the roof is hipped and
covered with slates. Founded in 1688 and built
in 1709, the school consists of one large room or
hall (42 ft. by 30 ft.) entered by a short flight of
steps from the N. front and having a basement
below; a small modern addition has been built
on the S. end of the E. front and a modern screen
now divides the hall into two compartments.

Bluecoat School. Plan.
The building is an interesting example of the
work of its period, the well-proportioned hall and
the brickwork of the elevations being noteworthy.
The Elevations have Doric pilasters at the angles,
which rise, without bases, off the plinth and
support an entablature, the cornice of which is
continued round the building and is surmounted
by a parapet with a plain stone coping. Each
front is divided into three bays, the middle one
on each front projecting. The windows in the
side bays, three in the height, have flat brick
arches, with stone keys and sills to the upper ones;
between the two upper windows is a sunk panel
with a stone sill and between the plinth and the
sill of the middle window a raised panel or apron.
The middle bay of the N. Front has a painted
wood doorway with fluted Doric pilasters imposed
on rusticated pilasters of the same order supporting
an entablature with triglyphs in the frieze and a
dentilled cornice. The doors are in two leaves,
each with four raised and moulded panels. Between
the doorway and the main cornice, standing on a
plinth with a moulded base and capping and
flanked by pilasters with continuous stone imposts,
is a round-headed, semi-circular niche containing a
carved stone figure of a "Bluecoat boy" in the
costume of the period. The niche has a mask
keystone, and the arch has panelled spandrels.
Below the niche is a raised stone panel inscribed
"This Blewcoat School was built 1709." Upper
members are added to the main cornice of the
middle bay, which is carried up as an attic with a
brick panel surmounted by a stone cornice and
broken carved pediment. In the panel is a clock-dial on a wooden frame, and on either side are
carved stone brackets rising from the adjoining
parapets. On the S. Front the middle bay has
slightly projecting rusticated brick quoins. The
main cornice, which breaks round the quoins,
is similar to that on the N. front, and above
is treated in a similar manner, but the pediment
is unbroken and surmounted by an octagonal
chimney-shaft with moulded stone capping and
base; in place of the clock-dial is a plain recessed
panel inscribed "This school was founded in 1688."
In the middle of the bay is a shallow recess with
concave jambs and semi-circular arch, moulded
stone imposts and plain keystone. It stands on a
secondary plinth with moulded base and capping,
and is flanked on either side by coupled Doric
pilasters supporting an entablature. The recess is
plastered, and on it is a much faded painted figure
of a "Bluecoat boy" in early 18th-century
costume. Between the entablature and the main
cornice is a range of three recessed and plastered
panels with flat brick arches, stone sills and
projecting aprons. On the E. Front the middle
bay, though of slight projection, is similar to the
side ones, but on the W. Front it has a central
doorway (with a window above) flanked on either
side by coupled Doric pilasters standing on plinths
and supporting an entablature. The entablature
is surmounted by two small pedestals connected
by a ramped moulding to a central brick panel
above which is a square-headed window. The
steps up to the doorway have been removed and
a flight formed leading down to the basement,
one of the windows of which has been converted
into a doorway. On each of the side elevations
are two lead rainwater-pipes with shaped heads
bearing the date 1709.
Interior: A wooden entablature with modillioned and dentilled cornice runs round the hall
at about two-thirds its height, above which is a
plastered cove, pierced by the upper windows, and
a flat ceiling. The walls to a height of 7½ ft. are
panelled, the panelling having a moulded capping
and projecting dado-rail, both of which return on
to the plain wooden architraves of the windows.
The lower windows are double hung, the upper of
square form; the lower windows have panelled
linings and seats with panelled fronts. Standing
free, about 4 ft. from the middle of the N. wall,
are four fluted and cabled wooden columns of the
Corinthian order round which the entablature
breaks and which support a gallery-front with capping and plinth, panelled pedestals and bolection-moulded panels; the middle portion is brought
forward with concave curves flanked by narrow
pilasters. Behind the columns are corresponding
wall-pilasters. In the two side bays thus formed
are round-headed semi-circular niches with moulded
imposts, panelled pedestals below and bolection-moulded panels above; there is a similar panel
above the central doorway. This doorway is
below the level of the floor and is reached by a
few steps leading down from between the centre
columns and having on either side short balustrades
with turned balusters and moulded handrail. The
middle portion of the S. wall projects slightly and
has a central fireplace with simple moulded architrave and shelf, on either side of which are semi-circular niches with round heads; the archivolts
spring off the capping of the wall-panelling. Above
the capping over the fireplace are two round-headed panels inscribed with the Decalogue. They
are flanked by panelled Doric pilasters which break
through the main architrave and support an
entablature the cornice of which is continued over
the panels.
Condition—Fairly good.
(39). Queen Anne's Gate (Plate 228), which
consists of terraces of houses on N. and S. sides
and at W. end of street, is situated between
St. James' Park and Tothill Street, 400 yards
W.N.W. of the Abbey. Originally known as
Queen Square, it was laid out in the early years
of the 18th century, the date 1704 being on
one of the existing lead rainwater-heads. The
houses were originally of three storeys with attics
and basements, and were built of red brick with
some stone dressings, and the roofs were tiled.
The street was designed as a whole and formerly
included a chapel of St. Peter, which stood
immediately S. of No. 46; this chapel was pulled
down in the second half of the 19th century,
but part of the carved oak reredos (Plate 100)
from it is still preserved in a modern house, No. 18,
Queen Anne's Gate. The elevations of the houses
are generally similar, but the individual houses
vary somewhat in size and consequently slightly
in plan. Where original, the elevations to the
streets have projecting bands of stone marking
the floor-levels, and the windows are square-headed
with rubbed-brick jambs and arches; those to
the ground and first floors have keystones carved
with grotesque masks; at the eaves-level is a
wooden modillioned cornice, and the attics have
gabled dormers with moulded cornices and pediments; between each house, in line and corresponding with the windows, are long and shallow
recesses. The entrance doorways are squareheaded with moulded architraves flanked by richly
carved Doric pilasters, standing on pedestals with
moulded caps and bases and surmounted by richly
carved hoods of square projection. The sides and
front of each hood are in the form of an entablature
with carved and pulvinated frieze and enriched
mouldings; below the architrave on the front
are two elliptical arches, with a similar arch on
each return side, all richly carved and terminating
in a carved pendant. The windows are of the sash
type with the frames set almost flush with the
outer walls, but practically all these have been
renewed. Inside the buildings the rooms are
panelled, the panelling being in two heights with a
moulded dado-rail and cornice. The staircases
have moulded strings and handrails, square newels
and turned balusters.
With the exception of Nos. 15, 17 and 19 on
the S. side and the houses at the W. end of the
street, all the original houses remaining have had
the original attics removed, have been raised by
an additional storey, and, except in No. 32, have
had new attics added. Most of the houses on the
N. side of the street have been extended northwards and most of those on the S. side have been
added to at the back.
Though, through later alterations, its original
appearance has been somewhat impaired, the
street yet remains an interesting example of the
period, and the hooded doorways are particularly
noteworthy.
N. side
No. 26, on the N. side, has its original hooded
doorway with a door of six raised panels surmounted by a fanlight. Inside the building the
large entrance-hall rises to the first floor and has
an elaborate staircase (Plate 230), which was probably inserted after the house was built; it has a
moulded handrail, carved trusses at the outer end of
each step, turned and twisted balusters and newels
formed of four of these balusters grouped together;
below the balustrade at the first-floor landing is an
entablature with an elaborately carved frieze with
a grotesque mask in the middle and below the
newels are carved pendants. The hall is panelled
throughout, has raised mouldings to the panelling,
moulded dado-rail and coved cornice. On the
ground-floor in the N. wall is a semi-circular
opening, and in the E. wall an elliptical-headed
opening, each with a moulded archivolt, plain
key-block, panelled soffit, and panelled pilasters
with moulded caps and bases. The front room
retains its original cornice and a six-panelled door,
and both back-rooms are panelled and also have
old doors; in the easternmost of these two rooms
the panelling is moulded and in the westernmost
it is plain with a bolection-moulded panel above
the 18th-century marble mantelpiece. On the
first floor the rooms have been considerably
altered, but on the second floor they are lined
with plain original panelling with moulded dadorails and cornices, bolection-moulded panels over
the fireplaces and plain two-panelled doors. The
back staircase (Plate 230) is original and is lined
with plain panelling.
No. 28, adjoining No. 26 on the W., has lost its
hooded doorway. An original rainwater-head at
the back is dated 1704. Inside the building are
two staircases similar to those in No. 26, and some
original doors remain, but most of the internal
decoration and fittings are modern.
No. 30, adjoining No. 28 on the W., retains its
original hooded doorway (Plate 99) and door.
Inside the building are two staircases similar to
those in No. 26, and some of the original panelling
remains. The house was, however, completely
restored in 1913, when many of the rooms from
which the old panelling had been removed were
relined with panelling similar to the original work.
No. 32, adjoining No. 30 on the W., has lost its
original hooded doorway. Inside the building the
room on the right of the front doorway has its
original panelling and cornice; the main staircase
is modern, but the second staircase is original and
similar to those previously described.
S. side
No. 15 (Plate 226) is the easternmost on this
side of the original houses and is L-shaped on plan
with the E. wing extending northwards beyond
the general building line of the remaining houses
adjoining on the W. In the N. wall of the projecting wing are, on each floor, two shallow recesses,
corresponding with and similar to the windows; set
between the two recesses to the ground-floor and
standing on a pedestal, is a stone statue of Queen
Anne (Plate 226), not in its original position; she
wears a brocaded skirt and bodice and an open
cloak, holds in her right hand a sceptre, and
in her left an orb, and wears upon her head
a small crown. The house retains its original
eaves-cornice, but the entrance-doorway is round-headed and has lost its original hood, side
pilasters, etc., though the old knocker, modelled
in the form of a mermaid, remains on the door.
Inside the building, dividing the entrance-hall from
the staircase, is a moulded arch springing off
panelled pilasters with moulded caps and bases.
The hall and many of the rooms are lined with
original panelling, but some has been renewed,
and modern alterations include the taking down of
various partition walls to make large rooms where
smaller rooms previously existed. The original
staircase remains.
No. 17, adjoining No. 15 on the W., has its
original hooded doorway and retains its original
eaves-cornice and two original dormers lighting the
front attics. Much of the back elevation is
original and is of similar character to the front, but
the windows are segmental-headed without keystones and the band between the storeys is of brick.
Two windows have been enlarged and the staircasewindow between the ground and first floors retains
its old frame; in the roof are two gabled dormers.
Inside, the building has been much altered; none
of the original panelling remains, and the staircase
is modern.
No. 19, adjoining No. 17 on the W., has its
original eaves-cornice and hooded doorway and the
old front-door knocker; the roof has been altered.
The back elevation is mostly original and has two
original dormers in the roof, but the westernmost
one has been added to. Inside the building slight
alterations have been made, but most of the
rooms are lined with original panelling; between
the entrance hall and staircase is a semi-circular
arched opening, similar to those already described,
and the staircase is original. In the basement is
an old dresser with moulded cornice and shaped
sides.
No. 21, adjoining No. 19 on the W., has modern
alterations on the back and has been completely
altered internally. The original doorway and hood
are now in South Kensington Museum. Inside the
building parts of the original staircase remain.
No. 23, adjoining No. 21 on the W., has its
original hooded doorway. Inside, the building has
been much altered, but the entrance-hall is lined
with original panelling and the old staircase remains.
The front room on the left hand of the entrance-hall has in the E. wall an original cupboard with a
round-headed panelled door in two leaves.
No. 25, adjoining No. 23 on the W., and at S.E.
corner of the street, has its original front door,
knocker and hooded doorway. Inside the building
some of the rooms are lined with original panelling,
and their old doors and most of the original cornices
remain. One room on the first floor has an original
fireplace with plain stone surround, moulded round
the outer edge, without any shelf and having a
bolection-moulded panel in the wood panelling
above. The staircase is original.
W. end
No. 40, on S. side of W. extension of Queen Anne's
Gate, has the external walls plastered to the level
of the first floor; a modern porch has been built
in place of the original doorway and the original
eaves-cornice has been taken down and the walls
raised to form a parapet; the windows on the N.
front W. of the porch are all blocked. Inside, the
building has been much altered, only a little of
the original panelling in the room on the left of the
entrance-hall remaining. The staircase is original
and in the basement are two lengths of reused
16th-century panelling.
No. 42, adjoining No. 40 on the E. and standing
at S.W. corner of road running W. from the
approach to the Park, has been externally covered
with plaster; the original cornice has been taken
down and the walls raised to form a low parapet.
The house was originally entered from the N. front,
but a modern bay-window has been substituted for
the original doorway and a modern round-headed
entrance has been made in the middle of the E.
front and retains the old grotesque keystone from
the window which it replaces. Inside the building
alterations include the removal of the partition
from the E. side of the old entrance-hall and the
forming of a small entrance-hall on the E. side of
the ground-floor, and, on the first floor, the removal
of the cross partitions to form one large L-shaped
room on the two sides of the staircase. Most of the
rooms retain their original panelling and cornices,
though patched and repaired with modern work.
The staircase is original and, on the ground-floor, in the S. wall is the semi-elliptical arched
opening which originally divided the staircase from
the hall.
No. 44, adjoining No. 42 on the S., has a coved
hood with a moulded cornice above the doorway
supported on panelled pilasters; a low brick
parapet has been built in place of the original
eaves-cornice. Inside the building much of the
original panelling remains, and across the entrance-hall is the original semi-circular arched opening;
the original staircase remains.
No. 46, adjoining No. 44 on the S., has the front
wall plastered externally but retains its original
eaves-cornice; the entrance doorway is similar
to and has a coved hood continuous with that to
No. 44; a modern bay-window has been built to
the ground-floor and additions made at the back;
one window on the E. front has its original frame
and sashes. The back elevation is mainly original
and has rubbed brick quoins and flat arches to the
windows with plain keystones; a small projecting
wing at the back has a modillioned eaves-cornice;
inside the building, except on the ground-floor
where the rooms and entrance-hall have been
altered, most of the work is original. On the first
floor one room has an original fireplace with
moulded surround surmounted by an acanthus-leaf
frieze and moulded cornice; some of the mouldings
of both architrave and frieze are enriched. The
front room on the second floor has panelled closets
on either side of the chimney, both with moulded
cornices. The staircase is original.
The house adjoining No. 46 on the S., on the site
of the former chapel, is modern, but the hood over
the entrance-doorway is similar to that to No. 44
and 46.
Condition—Of most of the houses good, but the
roofs of Nos. 17 and 19 are sagging in places and
there is a slight bulge in part of the back wall.
Strand. S. side
(40). House and shop (No. 230), 110 yards E. of
St. Clement Danes' church, is of four storeys with
basement and attics. The walls are of brick;
the roofs are covered with tiles. It was built late
in the 17th or early in the 18th century, but has
been much altered; a projecting bay has been
added on the street front from the first to the
fourth floor. Inside the building the first-floor
rooms have old cornices, and there are some original
panelled partitions of a simple character. The
upper staircase has a continuous moulded string
and turned balusters.
Condition—Fairly good.
(41). House and shop (No. 229), adjoining (40)
on the W., is of four storeys with basement. The
front and back walls are of plastered timberframing; the roof is covered with lead. It was
built in the first half of the 17th century, but has
been altered and renewed at subsequent periods
and the ground-floor converted into a modern shop.
On the elevation to the Strand the building projects both on the first and second-floor levels,
the whole of the width on each floor being occupied
by sash-windows divided by boxing; those on the
second floor retain their old sashes; below the
first-floor windows is a panel with raised mouldings.
The back elevation projects in stages and has
windows similar to those in the front. Inside the
building one original panelled door remains and
a narrow cornice in one of the second-floor rooms
is possibly of 17th-century date.
Condition—Fairly good.
(42). House and restaurant (No. 165), 190 yards
W. of S. Clement Danes' church, is of four storeys
with basement and attics. The walls are of
plastered timber-framing; the roofs are partly
tiled and partly covered with lead and zinc. It
was built late in the 17th century, but internally
has been much altered. On the street-front the
upper storeys originally projected, but have been
under-built with a modern front. The upper part
is in three bays with sash-windows separated by
panels and having continuous moulded sills,
entablatures at the floor-levels and a modillioned
eaves-cornice. The middle windows on the first
and second floor slightly project, and over them
the cornices are returned and surmounted by
curved pediments; that over the former is broken
and has scrolled ends.
Condition—Fairly good.
(43). House and shop, (No. 164a) adjoining (42)
on the W., is of four storeys with attics and basement. The walls are of plastered timber-framing;
the roofs are covered with slates. It is of the
latter part of the 17th century and is generally
similar to (42), but there is no pediment above
the middle window on the first floor, and the
cornice at the third-floor level is enriched with
carving.
Condition—Fairly good.
(44). Essex Street (E. side, Nos. 26 to 32 and
34; S. end, archway and Nos. 23 and 24; W. side,
Nos. 12 to 15 and 17 to 19), houses, now offices,
are of late 17th-century date and of three storeys
with basements and attics; the walls are of brick;
the dressings to the archway are of stone; the
roofs are covered with slates or tiles. The elevations are symmetrically designed, and many of
the houses have projecting bands at the floor-levels;
the windows have flat or segmental rubbed-brick
arches and a few retain their original sashes.
Nos. 14 and 32 have round-headed doorways
flanked by engaged Doric columns with entablatures and pediments, and Nos. 28 and 29 have
flat-headed doorways with Corinthian pilasters
supporting entablatures and curved pediments.
The gateway at the S. end of the street has a
square-headed opening supported on responds with
enriched imposts, and, above, is a semi-circular
arch with moulded architrave, plain key-block and
brick tympanum. Over the arch are two circular
brick windows. The gateway, which formerly
opened on to the river, is flanked by two tall
Corinthian pilasters with a portion of architrave
over each connected over the arch by a small
projecting stone band. In place of a cornice is
a band of coupled dentils; the parapet is surmounted by a flat stone capping. On the W. side,
No. 18 has been refronted. Inside, most of the
buildings have been much altered, but some retain
their original panelled rooms and old doors and
bolection-moulded architraves, etc. A few original
fireplaces remain and have bolection-moulded
surrounds with moulded shelves over. Some of
the buildings have their original staircases with
straight strings and handrails, twisted balusters
and square newel-posts.
Condition—Good.
(45). The Devereux Dining Rooms, formerly
known as the Grecian Coffee House, public house,
on corner of Devereux Court, 20 yards E. of Essex
Street, is of three storeys with attics and cellar;
the walls are of brick covered with painted plaster
and the roofs are tiled. It was built in the latter
part of the 17th century, but has been greatly
altered and added to. The elevations have no
original features, but built out from the E. front
is an original ogee-shaped bracket inscribed "This
is Deveraux Courte 1676," and supporting a bust
of a man in mid 17th-century costume with curled
locks, moustache and Vandyke beard. Inside
the building little old work remains; on the
ground-floor is one old two-panelled door and one
room on the second floor is lined with plain panelling and has a moulded cornice; the stairs from the
first floor upwards have moulded strings and handrail, turned balusters and column-shaped newels.
Condition—Good.
(46). House, No. 22 Devereux Court, adjoining
No. 45 on the W. is of four storeys and cellar;
the walls are of brick and the roofs are tiled. It
was built late in the 17th century, but the top
storey is a later addition and a modern shop-front
has been built to the ground-floor. The front to
the Court has a projecting painted band at the
second-floor level and square-headed windows to
the first and second floors with moulded brick
arches and painted key-blocks; the windows have
flush frames and those to the second floor retain
their old sashes divided into panes by thick bars.
Inside the building the first room on the first floor
is lined with old panelling with moulded dado-rail, architrave and cornice and retains a twopanelled door; the stairs are original and have
moulded strings and handrail, turned balusters and
square newels with ball terminals.
Condition—Fairly good.
(47). The old Cheshire Cheese, inn, at S.
corner of Little Essex Street and Milford Lane,
is of three storeys with attics and cellar. The
walls are of brick, covered with painted cement,
and the roofs are tiled. It was built early in the
18th century but has been greatly altered both
inside and out. Both fronts have plain parapets
and projecting bands at the second-floor level;
behind the parapet to the W. front are two weather-boarded gables. Inside the building some of the
rooms have cased ceiling-beams and one room has
a plain panelled dado, moulded cornice and fireplace with a simple moulded and eared architrave.
Condition—Good, much altered.
Buckingham Street. S.W. side
(48). Houses, Nos. 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12, are all
of four storeys with cellars; the walls are of
brick, plastered on the front, and the roofs are
covered with tiles or slates. No. 8 is 80 yards
S.E. of the Strand. All the houses were built late
in the 17th or early in the 18th century. The
fronts have brick bands between the storeys;
windows of No. 9 have plain key-blocks and those
of No. 11 have key-blocks carved with male,
female, and lions' heads.
No. 8 has an entrance-passage lined with bolection-moulded panelling with a dado-rail; one of
the rooms on the first floor has some similar
panelling and a doorway on the second floor has
an original architrave. The staircase (Plate 7)
is mostly original, but the flights vary in detail,
three different types of balusters being used;
the lower flights have cut strings, perhaps of later
date, and the upper flights straight strings and
square newels with turned pendants.
No. 9 has an entrance-doorway surmounted by a
flat hood with carved brackets. The back room
in the basement has bolection-moulded panelling
and a ceiling with plaster panelling. The top flight
of the staircase is original, and has twisted balusters,
straight string and square newels with turned
pendants.
No. 10 has a modern bay projecting in front.
The front doorway is flanked by rusticated pilasters
and a moulded hood, panelled on the soffit. The
back room on the ground-floor has an original
architrave, with egg-and-tongue ornament round
the fireplace. In the entrance-hall and front room
is some original panelling and there is a fluted
Corinthian column, now incorporated in a partition.
The staircase to the basement is partly original
with close string and turned balusters, but, above,
the staircase is of later date and has cut strings,
carved brackets, turned balusters and carved and
moulded rails.
No. 11 contains some original bolection-moulded
panelling.
No. 12 has bolection-moulded panelling and a
dentilled cornice to the hall and staircase. The
staircase has close strings, twisted balusters and
square panelled newels.
Condition—Of all houses, good.
(49). House and shop, No. 34, Villiers Street, on
the E. side of the street, 30 yards S.E. of the
Strand, is of five storeys; the walls are of brick.
It was built probably early in the 18th century
but has been very much altered. The front has
brick bands between the storeys. Inside the
building the staircase is original and has turned
balusters, close string and square newels with
turned pendants.
Condition—Good.
Lincoln's Inn Fields. S. side
(50). House, No. 44, 160 yards W.S.W. of Serle
Street, is of four storeys and a basement. The
walls are of brick and roofs are covered with slates.
It was built c. 1700, but the original attics were at
a later date converted into the present top storey
and the front wall was raised above the cornice.
The front elevation has painted raised bands at
the floor-levels, similarly treated quoins, and a
wooden modillioned cornice at the third-floor level;
the windows have flat rubbed-brick arches, and the
doorway has a moulded and eared architrave with
console-brackets carrying a moulded cornice and
segmental pediment. Inside the building the
panelling and staircase are of 18th-century date.
Condition—Good.
(51). House, No. 46, 12 yards W.S.W. of (50),
is of similar design, construction and date to that
monument, though the front wall has been raised
above the modern cornice, and a later porch has
been added to the front door. The decoration and
arrangement of the interior indicates alterations
of mid 18th-century date, but the back-stair
leading to the basement is original and has moulded
string, turned balusters and square newels.
Condition—Good.
(52). House, No. 48, 12 yards W.S.W. of (51), is
of four storeys and a basement. The walls are of
brick, with the front wall covered with plaster;
the roofs are covered with slates. It was built in
the second half of the 17th century, but has been
much altered. Later alterations include the raising
of the front wall one storey, the removing of all
mouldings and ornament from the N. front and the
rendering of the wall in plaster. The front elevation was originally in one design with the adjoining
house on the W. and has projecting bands at the
first and third-floor levels between which it is
divided into three bays with pilasters from which
the capitals and bases have been removed. The
interior has no original features.
Condition—Good.
(53). "The Old Curiosity Shop," shop and
house, No. 6, Portsmouth Street, on N. side of
road, 20 yards S.E. of Lincoln's Inn Fields, is of
two storeys, timber-framed and plastered, and with
a tiled roof. It is of 17th-century date and was
probably part of a larger house, but has been
much altered. The upper storey projects on the
street-front and has a moulded cornice below the
eaves; the roof is hipped. Inside the building
nothing of interest remains.
Condition—Good.
(54). House, No. 11, Clement's Inn Passage,
25 yards S.E. of Houghton Street, is of three
storeys with an attic. The front walls are of
brick and the back wall of weather-boarded
timber-framing. It was built c. 1700 and has a
modern addition at the back and a later shop-front has been added to the ground-storey. The
front is gabled and has plain projecting bands at
the floor-levels and segmental-headed windows.
Inside the building the ceiling to the ground-floor
has some chamfered ceiling-beams, and some of
the rooms are lined with plain panelling of early
18th-century date.
Condition—Good.
(55). The Piazza, on the N.W. side of Covent
Garden. The piazza was designed and built by
Inigo Jones, c. 1631, and originally extended along
the whole of the N.W. and N.E. sides of the
square. The S.W. half of the N.W. side was
rebuilt about 1880 and the N.E. half of the same
side is the only part now remaining. It forms an
open arcaded loggia of eight bays with as many
round-headed and rusticated arches on the face
and one on the S.W. return; the arches have
rusticated piers and plain imposts and key-blocks.
The loggia is covered by groined vaults, one to
each bay, and divided by plain cross-arches. The
Tavistock Hotel, built over the loggia, is of 18th-century date.
Condition—Good.
(56). The Bird in the Hand, public-house and
shop, Nos. 17 and 18, Long Acre, on the S.E. side
of the street, 34 yards N.W. of Rose Street. The
house is of three storeys with attics; the walls are
of brick and the roofs are covered with tiles and
slates. It was built late in the 17th or early in
the 18th century, and the windows at the back
are original.
Condition—Good.
(57). House, No. 12, Maiden Lane, on S. side
of street, is of three storeys with attics; the walls
are of brick and the roofs are tiled. It was built
probably early in the 18th century, but has been
altered at later dates, and the ground-floor is now
almost entirely taken up by a modern carriageway. The front elevation has projecting brick
bands between the storeys and a modern parapet;
the back is gabled and has some original windowframes. Inside the building the staircase from the
first floor to the others is original and has a moulded
string and handrail, turned balusters and square
newels.
(58). House and shop, No. 4, New Street, is of
four storeys; the walls are of brick. It was built
probably late in the 17th century, but the ground-floor is now entirely taken up with a modern shop;
a modern parapet has been added to the front
wall, and the interior has been much altered.
The front has projecting brick bands between the
storeys, and the upper windows have segmental-heads and many retain their old frames. Inside
the building the top three flights of the staircase
are original and have moulded strings and handrail,
symmetrically turned balusters and square newel
with turned pendant.
Condition—Good.
(59). Houses, now shops, Nos. 14, 16, 18,
Whitcomb Street, on E. side of street, 50 yards
N. of Pall Mall, are of three storeys with attics;
the walls are of brick and the roofs are tiled.
A stone in the front wall of No. 14 inscribed
"I.A. 1692," no doubt gives the date of their
erection, but modern shop-fronts have been
inserted in the ground-floor, the parapet is modern
and the front of No. 18 has been plastered; internally the buildings have been much altered. The
front elevation has a projecting brick band at the
second-floor level and each house has, on each of
the upper floors, two segmental-headed windows,
most of which retain their original frames; in
line with and between the windows of each house
are narrow segmental-headed panels. Most of the
windows in the back elevation are original. Inside
the building the only original feature is the upper
part of one staircase; it has moulded string and
handrail, turned balusters and square newels.
Condition—Good.
(60). House, No. 5, on the N. side of Great
Newport Street, 15 yards W. of Upper St. Martin's
Lane, is of three storeys with attics and cellars;
the walls are of brick and the roofs are tiled. It
was built probably late in the 17th century, but
the front has been refaced. Inside the building
the original staircase has close strings, symmetrically-turned balusters and square newels with half
balusters against them and turned pendants.
Condition—Good.
(61). Row of Houses and shops, Nos. 21 to 24,
Newport Court, is of three storeys with attics;
the walls are of brick and the roofs are tiled.
It was built probably early in the 18th century,
and possibly extended further westwards. The
front has brick quoins at the E. angle and at
the second-floor level is a projecting brick band;
the windows to the first and second floors have
segmental heads with narrow brick key-blocks to
the first floor; many of the windows retain their
old frames; nothing of interest remains inside the
buildings.
Condition—Good.
(62). House, No. 41, on the S. side of Gerrard
Street, 55 yards W. of Newport Street, is of three
storeys with attics and cellars; the walls are of
brick and the roofs are covered with slates. It was
built probably early in the 18th century, but the
front has been largely refaced; in the roof are two
dormer-windows with segmental pediments. Inside
the building the staircase to the basement and the
top flights are original and have close strings,
turned balusters and square newels with moulded
pendants. Most of the rooms have original
cornices.
Condition—Good.
(63). House, formerly the Rectory, on the W.
side of Dean Street, N.E. of St. Anne's church, is
of four storeys with cellars; the walls are of brick
rendered in cement. It was built probably early
in the 18th century but the parapet is later. The
entrance has a cornice supported on one original
scrolled bracket. Inside the building the staircase
is original except for the flight to the first floor, the
original parts have twisted or turned balusters,
fluted or square newels; the top flight has a close
string, but the lower flights have cut strings with
simple brackets.
Condition—Poor.
(64). House, No. 14, on the E. side of Greek
Street, 75 yards N. of Little Compton Street, is of
four storeys with cellars; the walls are of brick
and the roofs are tiled. It was built c. 1700, but
the upper part of the front was rebuilt in the 18th
century and the parapet added. Inside the
building is some original panelling and the staircase
has close strings, turned balusters and square
newels.
Condition—Poor.
(65). House, No. 10 and 10a, Soho Square, on
N. side of Square adjoining (23) on the E., is of
three storeys with attics and basement; the walls
are of brick and the roofs are tiled. It was built
in the latter part of the 17th century, but the
internal fittings appear to have been almost entirely
removed in the middle of the following century,
and the house has since been considerably altered
and adapted to the use of modern business premises.
The front elevation has been renewed and has
projecting bands at the second and attic-floor
levels; the parapet is probably of 18th-century
date, but a moulded rainwater-head remains and
is probably original. The back elevation has
projecting bands at the floor-levels and a moulded
eaves-cornice of wood; the windows have segmental arches and are fitted with flush frames,
probably renewals; the main roof is intersected by
three hipped gables. Inside the building later
alterations include the extension of the ground-floor over the original garden and the sub-dividing
of some of the rooms by the insertion of later
partitions. Some of the rooms have original
moulded cornices and one room is lined with
original panelling in two heights with a moulded
dado-rail and has a bolection-moulded surround
to the fireplace with a bolection-moulded panel
above; there is a similar panel above the fireplace
in one other room. The staircase, except to the
lowest part, which has been renewed, is original
and has moulded string and handrail, square
newels and turned balusters.
Condition—Good.
(66). House, No. 15, on the N. side of Soho
Square, 25 yards E. of Soho Street, is of three
storeys with cellars and attics; the walls are of
brick and the roofs are tiled. It was built late in
the 17th century. The front has been much
altered but retains the moulded bands between the
storeys. Inside the building there are several
original panelled doors and some original panelling.
The staircase (Plate 6) is original and has close
strings, turned balusters and square newels with
moulded pendants. The passage has a round arch
resting on panelled pilasters. A fireplace on the
second floor has a heavy moulded surround and a
raised panel above.
Condition—Good.
(67). House, No. 60, Frith Street, on W. side of
street, 60 yards S.S.E. of Soho Square, is of four
storeys and a basement; the walls are of brick and
the roofs are tiled. It was built late in the 17th
century and altered late in the following century
when the front wall was raised to enclose the
former attics and the house practically refitted
internally with panelling, etc. The front elevation
has been coated in cement up to the level of the
first floor and has a cement band at the second-floor-level; the windows have flat arches and those
on the first floor have cement key-blocks. The
back elevation has brick bands at the floor-levels
and the windows have segmental arches; the
gable has been rebuilt. Inside the building most
of the rooms have original moulded cornices, and
some of the original doors remain; on the first
floor the three rooms have original panelled dados
with moulded dado rails, the smallest room is
also lined with plain panelling above and the
middle room has a moulded shelf and surround to
the fireplace. On the second floor the panelling is
plain with large bolection-moulded panels over
the fireplaces; the fireplace in the back room has
a stone surround. The staircase up to the second
floor is panelled in two heights with moulded panels
and dado-rail; from the basement to the ground-floor it has a moulded string and capping, square
newels and turned balusters; from the ground-floor to the second floor the balusters and handrail are of late 18th-century date, but from the
second to the third floor the lower flight is similar
to that from the basement, but with alternately
turned and twisted balusters, and the upper flight
is similar, but with twisted balusters only.
Condition—Good.
(68). House, No. 67, Frith Street, on W. side of
road, 40 yards N. of 67, is of three storeys with
basement and attics; the walls are of brick and
the roof is tiled. It was probably built in the 17th
century, but the front was apparently rebuilt
during the following century, and the internal
fittings were renewed. A moulded lead rainwaterhead on the front is possibly original.
(69). Carlisle House, at the W. end of Carlisle
Street, Soho Square, is of three storeys with cellars;
the walls are of brick and the roofs are covered
with slates. It was built c. 1700. The front is
of stock brick with rubbed-brick arches to the
windows and stone bands between the storeys;
the front is finished with a modillioned cornice
and pediment with a round window in the
tympanum.
Inside the building the hall is lined with original
panelling with dado-rail and cornice. The opening
to the staircase has a round arch and moulded
imposts. The room S. of the hall has original
panelling, and the two doors have enriched architraves and over-doors. The fireplace has a
moulded surround of white marble. The room
at the back has an original cornice. The main
staircase is original and has close strings, twisted
balusters, square panelled newels and a panelled
dado against the walls; the upper flight has a
panelled plaster soffit. The staircase terminates
at the first floor, and the walls have panelling and
scroll-work and are finished with an enriched
cornice; the ceiling has modelled plaster enrichment of early 18th-century date. The back stairs
are also original and have close strings, twisted
balusters, and square newels with turned pendants;
lighting the lower flight is an original window
with solid frame and transom. The upper floors
have some original doors, dadoes and cornices.
The S.E. room on the first floor has an elaborate
early 18th-century plaster ceiling with an oval
panel in the middle and flowing scroll-work design.
Condition—Good.
(70). House, at the N. corner of Wardour Street
and Edward Street, is of three storeys with attics;
the walls are of brick and the roofs are tiled. It
was built probably c. 1686, but the upper part has
been subsequently rebuilt. The E. front has a
tablet inscribed "Wardour Street 1686," and the
S. front a similar tablet inscribed "Edward Street
1686."
Condition—Good, much altered.
(71). William and Mary Yard, houses and
stables, on the N.W. side of Little Pulteney Street.
The buildings are generally of two storeys and
the walls are of brick. They were built probably
late in the 17th century, but have been very much
altered and partly rebuilt. Under the S.W. range
is a large barrel-vaulted cellar with other vaults
at right angles to it.
Condition—Good.
(72). House, No. 4 on the E. side of Golden
Square, 20 yards from the N.E. angle, is of three
storeys with attics; the walls are of brick and
the roofs are tiled. It was built probably early
in the 18th century, but has been much altered
and a parapet added. Inside the building the
staircase from the first floor upwards is original
and has turned balusters, close strings and square
newels with moulded pendants; the lower flights
have cut strings with carved brackets and fluted
newels. On the first-floor half-landing is a window
with an original carved architrave, panelled soffit
and shutters. There are similar architraves to two
doorways on the ground floor.
Condition—Fairly good.
(73). House, No. 5, Great Marlborough Street,
on N. side of road, about 270 yards E. of Regent
Street, is of three storeys with attics and basement.
The walls are of brick and the roofs are tiled.
It was built early in the 18th century, but the
elevations have since been altered and rendered
in cement and a small addition built on the back.
The elevations present no original features. Inside
the building some of the rooms are lined with
original panelling; that to the rooms on the ground
and first floors is simply moulded, and that to the
rooms on the second floor is plain. The walls to
the entrance passage and lower staircase are lined
with panelling, and across the passage is a semi-circular arch with moulded archivolt, plain key-block and panelled pilasters with moulded bases
and cappings. The staircase is original and has
a moulded string and handrail, twisted balusters
and large twisted newels; the stairs to the basement are similar in character but have turned
balusters.
Condition—Good.
(74). House, No. 8, Great Marlborough Street,
on N. side of road, about 15 yards W. of (73),
is of three storeys with attics and basement.
The walls are of brick covered with cement and
the roofs are covered with slates. It was built
c. 1714, but has since been added to and much
altered, the main rooms on the ground floor having
been converted into a modern showroom and the
elevations rendered in cement. Inside the building
the walls of the entrance-hall and staircase are
panelled; the wall of the landing on the first floor
is also panelled and from the first floor upwards
the stairs have a panelled dado. The staircase
from the ground to the second floor has a carved
bracket at the end of each step, moulded handrail,
twisted balusters and newels in the form of small
fluted Corinthian columns, but from the second
floor to the attics the staircase is of an earlier
type and similar to that in (73), and has a continuous moulded string.
Condition—Good.
(75). Houses, Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4, Pickering Place,
on the E. side of St. James' Street and on the W.
side of the Place, are of four storeys; the walls
are of brick and the roofs are tiled. They were
built probably early in the 18th century and have
a brick band at the first-floor level. The doorways
of Nos. 3 and 4 have plain moulded hoods with
carved and scrolled brackets. Nos. 2, 3 and 4
have original staircases with close strings and
turned balusters.
Condition—Good.
(76). Duke of Albemarle, public house, at the
corner of Dover Street and Stafford Street, is of
three storeys with attics; the walls are of brick and
the roofs are tiled. It was built probably late in
the 17th century, but has been much altered. The
two fronts have plain brick bands between the
storeys. Preserved inside the building is the stone
sign for Stafford Street; it bears the Stafford arms
and knots and the inscription "This is Stafford
Stret 1686."
Condition—Good.
Albemarle Street. W. side:—
(77). House and shop, No. 37, about 140 yards
N. of Piccadilly, is of four storeys with attics and
cellars; the walls are of brick. It was built
probably early in the 18th century and has a
string-course at the second-floor level. Inside the
building the upper and lower flights of the staircase
are original and have close strings and turned
balusters.
Condition—Good.
(78). Houses, Nos. 48, 50a, and 50, 25 yards N.
of Piccadilly, are of four storeys, with attics and
cellars; the walls are of brick and the roofs are
slate-covered. The houses were built c. 1710–20,
but the middle house has been entirely altered.
The fronts have band-courses between the storeys
and a bracketed cornice at the top; the windows
have plain key-blocks. The entrance-doorway of
No. 50 has an original flat hood with carved and
scrolled brackets. The staircases of Nos. 48 and
50 are similar and have cut strings with carved
brackets, turned and twisted balusters and newels
in the form of Corinthian columns; the upper
flights have close strings. Both houses have some
original panelling, and No. 50 has an enriched
plaster ceiling and a rich marble fireplace, both of
rather later date.
Condition—Good.
(79). No. 6, North Street, house standing
back from the E. side of the road, 50 yards N.
of St. John's Church, is of two storeys with attics.
The walls are of plastered timber-framing; the
roofs are tiled. It is of an irregular L-shaped
plan with the wings extending towards the N. and
W., and the middle portion of the W. wing projecting on the S. It was built in the latter part
of the 17th century, but has been considerably
altered at later dates. Some of the windows are
original and retain their hung sashes divided into
panes by thick bars. Inside the building the
northernmost room has a fine plaster ceiling of
Georgian design, and the architraves to one door
and the windows are moulded and enriched. The
room above on the first floor has a moulded cornice
and dado-rail, and some of the doors on both the
ground and first floor are original. There is old
flag-stone paving to the yards.
Condition—Good.
(80). House, No. 9, Grosvenor Road, 70 yards
S. of Lambeth Bridge, is of two storeys with basement and attics. The walls are of brick and the
roofs are covered with tiles and slates. It is
rectangular on plan and was built in the early part
of the 18th century, but the front part of the attics
has been raised and various alterations have been
made at a later date. The front elevation is
symmetrically designed but has been covered with
cement and the windows and door have been
renewed. The doorway has a semi-circular 'shell-hood' supported on two carved brackets which
flank a long panel ornamented with swags and two
cherub-heads; the tympanum of the hood is
enriched with carved drapery and fruit and
flowers. The back elevation has been refaced with
modern brick. Inside the building the walls of the
four rooms on the ground-floor and also the entrance
and inner halls are lined with original panelling and
have moulded cornices and dado rails. The doors
are modern, but one room has an old chimney-piece
with eared architraves, pulvinated frieze and
moulded cornice as a shelf; the panelling to the
two N. rooms is bolection-moulded; between the
entrance and inner halls is an elliptical-headed
opening with moulded arches springing from
panelled pilasters with moulded cappings; the
front arch is modern. On the first floor the two
back rooms have panelling similar to that to the
corresponding rooms below, but with the mouldings
slightly varied; the six-panelled doors to these
rooms are probably original. In the attics are two
plain, two-panelled doors. The main staircase
(Plate 6) has a cut string with a simple shaped
scrolls at the ends of each step, a moulded handrail, square panelled newels and twisted and enriched
balusters. The secondary staircase has had the
upper part removed and has been floored over
on the first floor; the lower part has a moulded
string and handrail, turned balusters and square
newels.
Condition—Structurally good, but neglected.
(81). Conduit House, in Hyde Park, on N. side
of Knightsbridge, about 250 yards W.S.W. of
Hyde Park Corner, is a small brick building, square
on plan, with rusticated cement quoins and a
dome-shaped roof of stone. It is of early 18th-century date and, inside, has a round-headed recess
in each wall, the southern one of which is pierced
for a doorway. The building now contains a
modern tank.
Condition—Good.
(82). Alcove, now standing in the N.E. corner
of Kensington Gardens, opposite the N. end of the
Serpentine, is of Portland stone and brick; the
roof is covered with slates. It was built early
in the 18th century and originally stood at the
S. end of the formal gardens to the S. of Kensington
Palace. The S. front (Plate 125) is of Portland
stone, and consists of a round-headed semi-circular
recess flanked by pairs of fluted composite columns
supporting entablatures and a pointed pediment;
the arch springs from plain imposts; the keystone is a carved cartouche with the royal monogram of Queen Anne surmounted by a crown.
The recess is lined up to the springing of the arch
with moulded wood panelling in four heights,
surmounted by a capping; below the panelling is
a wooden seat on turned baluster-shaped legs, and,
above, is a plastered half-dome. Between the two
columns on each side of the alcove are round-headed niches, with panelled pilasters and a
moulded archivolt; the impost mouldings are
continued round the niche and the semi-dome is
of shell-form; the niches have moulded sills with
square panels below, and above the heads are
carved festoons and swags of flowers. The E.
and W. walls are of brick and are finished with
the main entablature, which is continued round
the building.
(83). Statue of Charles I (Plate 195) stands in
Trafalgar Square, on the site of Charing Cross.
The statue is of bronze and the pedestal of
Portland stone. The statue, by Hubert le Sueur,
was cast in 1633, but was not erected until 1674,
when it was placed upon its present pedestal; the
latter is said to have been the design of Grinling
Gibbons, but was actually carved by Joshua
Marshall.
The statue represents the king in armour and
bare-headed on horseback; on the hoof of the near
fore-leg of the horse is the inscription "Huber(t)
Leseur (fe)cit 1633."
The upper part of the pedestal has rounded ends
and a heavy moulded and carved cornice; on each
side is a recessed panel, and at each end, on the
rounded surface, is a shield of the royal Stuart
arms, that at the N. end with heraldic supporters
and that at the S. supported by putti; the shields
are hung on drapery, and at the base are trophies-of-arms. The pedestal has a moulded plinth and
stands on a plain rectangular base.
Condition—Good, but carving of pedestal much
weathered.
(84). Statue of James II (Plate 227) stands in
St. James' Park, on the W. side of the new
Admiralty buildings. It was first set up in Whitehall Gardens in 1686. The figure, by Grinling
Gibbons, is cast in bronze and is in Roman
military costume; the pedestal is modern.
Condition—Good.
(85). The Admiralty, woodwork in the Board
Room. The existing building fronting Whitehall
was erected in 1720, but the Board Room contains
a late 17th or early 18th-century overmantel.
Above and flanking the central panel are festoons
of nautical instruments, cherubs riding on dolphins,
fishes, &c., carved in high relief. On the panel is
a large wind-dial painted with a map of Western
Europe, each country having a small shield of
arms; the arms on England are those of Queen
Anne after the Union. This dial is not in its
original position. At the back of the fireplace is
a cast-iron fire-back with the arms of Charles II.
The room is lined with panelling, probably of
c. 1720.
(86). Street-name Tablets. On house at
corner of Foubert's Place and Great Marlborough
Street, of stone and inscribed "MARLBOROUGH
STREET 1704." On house No. 4, Orange Street,
on S. side of the road, refixed ornamental
cartouche of stone, inscribed "JAMES STREET
1673." On house at corner of Marsham Street
and Great Peter Street, of stone, inscribed
"THIS IS MARSHAM STREET 1688." See also
Monuments (70) and (76).