26. WALBROOK WARD.
Walbrook Ward consists of the parish of St.
Swithin London Stone and parts of the parishes of
St. John the Baptist, St. Lawrence Pountney, St.
Mary Abchurch, St. Mary Bothaw, St. Mary
Woolchurch, St. Mary Woolnoth and St. Stephen
Walbrook. The principal monuments are the
parish churches of St. Stephen Walbrook and St.
Swithin London Stone.
Ecclesiastical
(1) Parish Church of St. Stephen Walbrook
stands on the E. side of Walbrook at the S.
corner of Church Row. It is a Renaissance
church with a domed roof and W. tower. The
walls of the main building are rendered in cement,
and those of the tower are of coursed ragstone;
all the dressings are of Portland stone and the
roofs and dome are covered with lead. The
former church was destroyed in the Great Fire of
1666, and the present church erected in 1672–87
from the design of Sir Christopher Wren at the cost
of £7,652 13s. 8d. It has been restored in modern
times.
Church of St Stephen Walbrook.
The church presents the finest of Wren's parishchurch interiors, and the dome is considered one
of his best works.
Architectural Description—The church is rectangular (82½ ft. by 60 ft.) with a centre and crossaisle forming a Latin cross and having an open
square at the intersection covered by a dome.
The rest of the building forms an inner and outer
side aisle on each side. At the W. end is a vestry
with the tower beyond it and a long staircasevestibule in the centre of the W. front opening into
a W. apse.
East Elevation. The middle bay rises above the
sides and has a large round-headed E. window with
eared architrave. It is cut up into three-lights with
a transom at the spring of the arch and a round
head to the centre light above it. The middle bay
is finished with a cornice continued round the
clearstorey and is supported on either side by
carved scrolls standing on pedestals. The inner
side bays have each a round-headed window in the
E. wall with moulded architrave and cherub-head keystone; the outer side bays have each a
plain round window, and below that on the N. is a
square-headed doorway. The side bays are finished
with a cornice resting on moulded blocks. The
clearstorey follows the arms of the cross with a
projecting bay forming the angles of the central
square. Each bay except the sides of the transepts
has a plain segmental-headed window.
North Elevation. The N. wall has six oval
windows, one to each bay of the outer aisle and one
in the transept-end, and the wall is finished like the
sides of the E. end. The transept-end rises above
the aisle-wall with a semi-circular window with a
con-centric mullion of the same form. The end is
finished like that of the E. arm of the cross. The
vestry is a low single-storey building with a plain
square window in the N. wall. The W. return-wall of the aisles has a round-headed window.
The clearstorey is all as described in the E. elevation.
South Elevation. The lower part of the S. wall
has been covered by modern buildings, but the
upper part and clearstorey are uniform with the N.
wall.
West Elevation. The tower (Plate 222) is four
stages high divided by plain bands and surmounted
by a stone lantern. The first stage has a square-headed W. window with architrave and cornice.
The second stage has a similar window in the W.
wall. The two lower stages on the N. and S. are
covered by adjoining buildings. The third stage
has a round window, with a plain architrave, in the
E. and W. walls. The fourth stage or bell-chamber
has a round-headed louvred opening in each
face with eared architrave and plain keystone.
The tower is finished with a moulded cornice
surmounted by a balustraded parapet divided by
piers into three bays on each face and having
carved terminals at the angles. The lantern
consists of three diminishing stages all square on
plan. The first rests on a base with a square-headed opening in each face with eared architrave. The stage itself is open on each face, with
Ionic pilasters at the sides supporting a continuous
entablature. At the angles are groups of three
Ionic columns (showing coupled on each face) and
supporting square pedestals, above the entablature,
carrying vases. Connecting these pedestals is a
parapet with a pier in the centre of each side
supporting small pineapple-ornaments. The
second stage has a square-headed opening in each
face with panelled projecting pilasters at the
angles supporting a continuous cornice and
finished with stone balls. The third stage is
simply a panelled pedestal with a circular piercing
in each face and finished with a cornice. It
supports a moulded square terminal and ball.
The Vestibule has a round-headed doorway in the
W. wall with pilasters at the sides and a moulded
architrave. Resting on the arch are carved foliagesprays curved upwards to support the architrave
of an oval window above. This window is surmounted by carved festoons and has a carved
cartouche-keystone. The wall is finished with a
moulded cornice.
Interior (Plate 226). In the W. wall of the two
outer aisles are doorways with moulded architraves.
The square beneath the dome is the same width as
the middle aisle or body and the inner side aisles,
and from it the E., N. and S. arms of the cross project one bay and the W. arm two bays. Round the
square and the arms of the cross runs an enriched
entablature supported on Corinthian columns,
standing on square re-faced pedestals, and similar
pilasters against the E. and W. walls. Similar
columns and pilasters divide the outer aisles of the
W. arm. Above the central square a series of
eight enriched arches with cherub-head keystones
support the modillioned and enriched entablature
from which springs the dome. Four of these
arches open into the arms of the cross, and four are
sprung from column to column across the angles
of the square, to which they are groined back with
plaster vaults. The spandrels of the arches are
each enriched with a plaster cartouche, with palmfoliage. The dome is almost semi-circular in section
and has, internally, four con-centric bands of coffered
panels all moulded and enriched by egg and dart
ornament. The outer and lower band contains
sixteen panels each with a plaster rose in the
centre. The second row has eight large panels
each enriched with four palm-sprays and having
also a central rose. The two inner bands of sixteen
and eight panels respectively are similar to the
outer ring. In the centre of the dome is a circular
opening to a lantern above with moulded and
enriched border. The lantern is octagonal and of
timber, and has a square-headed window in each
face divided internally and externally by pilasters.
It has a plastered domed ceiling with a foliageenrichment in the centre, and is finished externally
with a cornice and lead-covered roof of ogee form
surmounted by a vane. The E. and W. arms of
the cross have a groined vault of plaster over each
bay with a plaster foliage-boss at the intersection.
The bays of the W. arm are divided by a moulded
band enriched with plaster foliage, and the western
apse is covered by a semi-dome. The bays of the
side-aisles are covered by flat panelled ceilings of
plaster, divided by panelled and moulded trabeations with foliage-bosses. The Tower has a square-headed doorway in the E. wall of the ground-stage and recesses in the three other walls. The
Bell-chamber is roofed with a flat stone vault with
an opening in the centre to the lantern. The spiral
staircase in the S.E. angle shows the tailing of
older steps into the walls. The Vestibule has a
square-headed doorway in the E. wall into the
W. apse with eared architrave, carved head keystone and cornice resting on carved consoles on the
W. side and having a moulded architrave and
cornice on the E. side. The ceiling is flat with a
moulded and coved cornice round the walls. There
is an ascent of thirteen steps within the vestibule.
Fittings—The fittings are all of late 17th-century
date unless otherwise described. Bells: two; 1st
by Robert Mot, 1601. Chairs: In chancel—two,
with carved and scrolled backs, twisted posts,
turned legs and twisted stretchers. Chest: Under
tower, plain oak, late 17th-century. Communion
Table and Rails. Communion Table (Plate 43):
low and semi-circular with carved rails and three
legs formed of grouped scrolls. Rails: semi-elliptical on plan with twisted balusters and carved and
moulded rail and base. Doors: In E. wall, N. side,
two panelled doors, also panelled internal lobby
and enriched segmental pediment, over, bearing
carved cartouche-of-arms, a cheveron between three
cinqfoils, carved architrave to inner door and panel
over carved with palm and cartouche; in doorway
to vestry, panelled; in vestibule, W. arch, six-panel
gates in two folds, inverted curves at top; between
vestry and tower, panelled. Font and Font-cover
(Plate 11). Font: of baluster form, of marble,
octagonal bowl gadrooned below and a cherub-head at alternate angles, draped festoons between
stem with acanthus-ornament at base, made in
1679. Cover: of oak, octagonal with twisted
Corinthian shafts at angles, each face with foliage
and amorino, above cornice a band of cherub-heads and festoons and eight oak statuettes of saints
at upper, and vases of flowers at lower, angles;
top, ogee-shaped with crown-finial. Monuments
and Floor-slabs. Monuments: against E. piers—
on N. (1) to Rev. Robert Marriott, 1689, marble
monument with twisted Corinthian columns at
sides carried on curved brackets and supporting
entablature and broken pediment with achievement-of-arms and cherub-head in middle and
flaming vases at sides, plain panel between brackets
with scroll-work beneath. On S. pier, (2) to John
Lilburne, 1678, erected by his son George, marble
monument with carved wreath encircling inscription, flanked by pair of shaped brackets surmounted by moulded frieze and cornice and broken
segmental pediment enclosing plain segmental-headed tablet with pair of figures in high relief
carved on face and surmounted by achievement-of-arms; above sides of pediment figures of seated
cherubs with festoons, and below, inscription-tablet, shaped apron flanked by pair of cherub-head corbels supporting small full-length figures
of man and wife. On N. wall, (3) to Percival
Gilbourne, 1694, black and white marble tablet in
two heights with bust resting on lower and semi-circular head to the upper, flanked by pair of lamps
and surmounted by pair of urns; below, shaped
apron carved with palm-foliage, acanthus and
shield-of-arms; (4) to Dr. Nathanael Hodges, 1688,
small marble tablet with moulded edge, surmounted by achievement-of-arms. On S. wall—
(5) to Hannah, wife of Daniel Browne, 1695,
Dixey Kent and Jane (Browne) his wife, both
1696; David Browne, 1698, and his son John,
1706, white marble tablet with moulded border,
surmounted by achievement-of-arms. In churchyard—(6) to Abraham Bazin, 1693, his father
Germain, 1636, and others, stone slab with shield-of-arms, from St. Benet's Sherehog; (7) to Jeremy
Whichcote, 1710, stone slab with shield-of-arms.
Organ-case: In W. apse, handsome carved wood,
with carved and panelled base, with carved
scrolls at the sides; case itself with three half-round towers of pipes on acanthus and cherub-head brackets, the upper part with pierced carving
below enriched cornice, the side-ones supporting
large carved angels blowing trumpets, the bays
between with pierced carving and side pilasters
and crowned with amorini bearing rich festoons.
Organ, modern, replacing one of 1760, now in St.
Bartholomew the Great; the case may also be of
this date, but it is earlier in character. Panelling: The walls are wainscoted all round with
raised panels finished with a moulded capping
and having in each bay a cartouche of the arms
of the Grocers' Company. Walls of vestry and
ground-stage of tower panelled and painted.
Plate: includes an inscribed cup of 1559 with
cover-paten of 1562; two inscribed flagons of
1615, dated 1616, with letters S.S. linked, inlaid
with blue enamel on boss of lids; a dish of 1619
similarly ornamented and an inscribed cup of
1633; a stand-paten of 1567 (?). Pulpit: hexagonal, of oak with ogee stem resting on hexagonal shaft; each face of pulpit with square
enriched panel and carved and panelled pilasters
at angles, below enriched rail-cornice inverted
curved panels on each side with foliage-carving
and an open book. Staircase with wrought-iron
balusters. Sounding-board, of oak supported on
square Ionic pier at back with festooned capital
and carved and panelled sides, board with panelled
and enriched soffit and inverted curve to each face
enriched and carried over the cherub-heads at angles
and having standing cherubs above the cornice
at each corner holding large swags. Reredos
(Plate 227): of oak, middle bay with coupled round-headed and enriched panels in centre, square-headed panels at sides all with carved festoons
over, flanking these two fluted Corinthian columns
supporting a continuous cornice; at sides two
round-headed panels, dado below with carved
panels, pediment modern. Royal Arms: Above
W. screen, Stuart arms in carved wood. Screen:
At entrance to W. apse—oak screen with round-headed central doorway with panelled doors
partly glazed, flanked by fluted Corinthian columns
supporting an enriched entablature and segmental
pediment over central door, below pediment a
cherub-head and carved festoons. Side bays have
each a panelled door with glazed panel above, and
carved panels level with the column-caps; above
entablature is a panelled attic.
Condition—Good.
(2) Parish Church of St. Swithin London
Stone stands on the N. side of Cannon Street
at the W. corner of St. Swithin's Lane. It is a
Renaissance building of the single-apartment type,
covered with an internal dome and having a N.W.
tower surmounted by a spire. The walls are of
Portland stone and the roofs and spire are covered
with lead. The old church was destroyed in the
Great Fire of 1666 and re-built by Sir Christopher
Wren, 1677–87, at the cost of £4,687 4s. 6d. It
has been restored in modern times and the windows
divided up by mullions and tracery.
Architectural Description—The church is almost
a perfect square (45¼ ft. by 45½ ft.) with a Vestry
and a North-West Tower adjoining on the N. side.
The East Elevation of the main building is
divided, above the plinth, into three bays, of which
the central bay projects slightly and contains a
large round-headed window with moulded architrave, cartouche-keystone and side-pilasters with
moulded bases, standing on a panelled stylobate
and having separate entablatures resting on
consoles and a segmental pediment over the
window. The entablature is continued over the
side-bays, which have each a round-headed window
with eared architrave. The lead roof is hipped
back over the dome in an octagonal form and
finished on the top with a very flat octagonal and
pyramidal roof. Towards the angles of the church
are oval lucarne-lights with wooden architraves.
The Vestry or Vestibule has a plain segmental-headed window, and to the S. of it a segmental-headed doorway with cherub-head keystone.
This is now partly filled in and used as a window.
Above is a large window like the side windows of
the church. The North Elevation is concealed by
buildings except the tower which is of three stages,
with a moulded plinth and finished with a spire.
The ground-stage has a segmental-headed doorway
in the N. wall with eared architrave and cherub-head keystone. Above it is a round-headed
window with eared architrave; a similar window
pierces the W. wall at the same level. Between
the first and second stages is a frieze and moulded
cornice. The second stage has a circular window
in the N. and S. walls with moulded architrave.
Between this stage and the bell-chamber is a band-course. The bell-chamber or third stage has a
round-headed louvred opening in each face, the
lower half blocked on the N. and W., with eared
architrave, cartouche-keystone and a wooden mullion carried up to the centre. At the top of this
stage the wall is cut back at the angles to form an
octagonal finish; the cuttings are of concave form
and the stage is finished with a cornice having
ogee blocks and a balustraded parapet, octagonal
on plan. The spire rises from within the parapet
and is of timber, octagonal and lead-covered and
finished with a ball and vane. In the cardinal
faces are three ranges of lucarne-lights, three in
each face, the two lower oval and the upper round.
The South Elevation (Plate 62) is similar to the
East Elevation, but below the side windows are
segmental-headed doorways with eared architraves
and cherub-head keystones; the eastern of these
is blocked. The tympanum of the pediment is
enriched with a foliage-wreath and swags, and
above the side-windows are draped festoons. The
West Elevation is similarly treated to the East, but
all the windows are blocked. The windows in the
E., N. and S. elevations, except the tower, are
filled with modern mullions and tracery.
Church of St Swithin, Cannon Street.
Interior: The E., S. and W. walls are each
divided into three bays by Composite half-columns,
standing on high rectangular bases and having
quarter-pilasters in the angles. The same arrangement is continued on the N. side by a half-column
on the S. face of the tower and by a free column
between the church and vestry. These support an
enriched and continuous entablature, with a rich
oak and bay-leaf frieze, carried across the angles
of the square to form a regular octagon from which
springs the dome; the soffits of the entablature
form trabeations, panelled and enriched with
foliage. The low segmental dome is octagonal
with bands of foliage masking the groins. Each
side has at the base a circular panel or window
with moulded architraves and elaborate cartouches
at the head, from which depend rich ribboned
festoons of fruit and foliage. Above these are
moulded panels, and in the middle of the dome an
octagonal panel with a plaster rose in the centre.
The Gallery over the Vestry has a flat plaster
ceiling, as have the triangular bays at the angles of
the main church, but each of these bays is enriched
with a floral wreath and scroll-work. The tower has
a large round-headed arch in the E. and S. walls
divided horizontally by the gallery-floor and closed
below by wainscot. The upper part of the S.
arch is blocked on the N. side.
Fittings—All the fittings are of late 17th-century
date unless otherwise described. Bells: two, 2nd
by James Bartlett, 1680. Chest: In vestry, of
iron, said to have belonged to St. Mary Bothaw.
Clock: with circular case, projecting from cornice
at W. end of S. front, on moulded wooden beam
supported on carved scroll-bracket. Communion
Table: of oak with panelled standards at the sides,
flanked by carved trusses on moulded rails with
ball-feet and moulded top. Communion Rails:
of oak, with moulded rail and base, panelled
standards carved with floral swags and carved and
twisted balusters. Doors: to S. entrance and to
N. doorway to tower, segmental-headed and each
in two leaves with bolection-moulded panels.
Between tower and body of church, in two leaves
each of four bolection-moulded panels, with one
panel in each filled with modern glazing. Font
(Plate 12): of veined white marble with circular
bowl enriched with cherub-heads, drapery and
acanthus-leaves and baluster-shaped stem with
acanthus-leaf enrichment and moulded base. Font-cover: of oak, circular with enriched mouldings
and band of floral scroll-work to base, surmounted
by ogee-shaped and fluted top with a crown-finial.
Gallery: over vestry, with front of bolection-moulded panels divided by panelled standards
carved with foliage, all supported on fluted Corinthian pilasters, filled in between with modern
panelling and doors and surmounted by entablature
with enriched architrave and cornice; gallery-front
continued across S. arch of tower with modern
panelling and doors below. Monuments: on column
between church and vestry, (1) to Michael Godfrey,
1695, "first Deputy-Governour of the Banck of England," large marble tablet, draped, with shield-of-arms, flanked by weeping amorini, with urn above
surmounted by carved foliage and cherub-heads
carried up face of column; on W. wall, (2) to Rev.
George Bull, 1707, Rector of Tavistock, marble
wall-monument with long rectangular panel projecting in middle with moulded cornice surmounted
by cartouche flanked by weeping amorini. In
gallery—on N. wall, (3) to Michael Godfrey, 1689,
Elizabeth his daughter, 1691, and Hester, his
daughter, and wife of Hugh Smithson, 1698, marble
wall-monument with central projecting inscription-panel with moulded cornice surmounted by a vase
and wide projecting gadrooned shelf with shield-of-arms and palm-leaves on panel below. Panelling: of oak, lining lower parts of walls of church
in four heights with moulded capping. Pews:
modern, but incorporating bolection-moulded
panelled backs of former pews cut down. Plate:
includes two inscribed and dated flagons of 1623;
a dish of 1627 inscribed "S. Mary Bothaw"; two
spoons, one of 1631, the other of 1660, inscribed
and dated 1685; two dated cups and cover-patens
of 1711, each inscribed "St. Swithins 1711," and
a stand-paten of 1711 inscribed "S. Mary Bothaw."
All the above pieces of plate with the exception of
the spoons are in old stamped leather cases. Pulpit
(Plate 35): of oak, octagonal with raised rectangular panel on each face with enriched mouldings
flanked by carved swags surmounted by scrollbrackets supporting moulded cornice carried over
each panel in segmental pediment with cherub-head
and foliage in tympanum; top of pulpit finished
with moulded capping; angles panelled with carved
swags in panels and moulded and enriched base
carried down in ogee form to later post; stair up
to pulpit, 18th-century. Reredos: of oak, flanked
by coupled and fluted Corinthian pilasters supporting entablature with enriched frieze; in middle,
two round-headed panels with enriched mouldings
inscribed with the Commandments, on frieze
above, central panel carved with two cherub-heads
and, below, long panel carved with foliage and
scroll-work; flanking reredos proper, two pedimental bays with panels inscribed respectively with
the Lord's Prayer and Creed, with enriched frames
and richly carved surrounds with carved cherub-heads above; main segmental pediment of reredos
and carved figures from above three bays now
removed. Royal Arms: now on W. wall, of oak,
carved arms with supporters, etc., and shield
painted with royal (Hanoverian) arms, probably
late 17th-century and formerly on reredos. Sword-rest (Plate 44): refixed on panelling below easternmost column on S. wall, of ornamental ironwork,
with two shields painted respectively with royal
(Hanoverian) arms and arms of the city, and surmounted by crown with oval panel below with
monogram of Queen Anne and date 1710. Miscellanea: Frame, in vestry, of oak with enriched
mouldings, carved scrolls at sides, carved scrolls
and skull below and moulded cornice and pediment
above. "London Stone"—rough stone with top
deeply scored, now set in a Portland-stone case
in the middle of the external S. wall; case, semi-octagonal with moulded cornice and battered plinth
with oval aperture in front face giving view of stone
itself; stone said to be Roman milestone. See
Vol. III, p. 111. On S. wall, carved achievement
of the arms of the Salters' Company, of oak.
Condition—Good.
Secular:
(3) Salters' Hall stands on the W. of St.
Swithin's Lane and is a modern building. In the
Hall is a carving in wood of the arms of William III.