42. GREAT AND LITTLE HAMPDEN.
(O.S. 6 in. (a)xxxvii. S.E. (b)xxxviii. N.W.
(c)xxxviii. S.W.)
Ecclesiastical
c (1). Parish Church of St. Mary Magdalene, Great Hampden, in the park S. of Hampden House, is built of flint with some stone, and
stone dressings; the roofs of the nave and chancel are tiled; those of the aisles are covered with
lead. The lower stage of the South-West Tower
is of late 13th-century date, and the S. doorway, the font, and a piscina in the chancel are
also of that period; the present Nave and Aisles
and the South Porch were built about the
middle of the 14th century. In the first half
of the 15th century the Chancel was entirely
re-built, the N. aisle was widened, and new
windows were inserted in both aisles; the upper
part of the tower was apparently completed,
the clearstorey was built, and new roofs were
added also in the 15th century. The building
was considerably restored during the 19th century, and in 1899–1900 a high-pitched roof was
erected over the 15th-century ceiling of the
nave.
The church is supposed to be the burial place
of John Hampden. The monument to his
memory in the chancel was erected by his
grandson in the 18th century.
Architectural Description — The Chancel
(28 ft. by 16 ft.) has a 15th-century E. window
of three trefoiled ogee lights and tracery in a
two-centred head, with an external label, all
partly restored; across the E. wall, inside, below
the window, is an original string-course. The
two windows in the N. wall and two in the S.
wall are of similar design to the E. window, also
of the 15th century and partly restored; a
squint from the aisle has been cut at a later
date through the W. jamb of each western window. The 15th-century chancel arch is of two
moulded orders, and has moulded jambs with
bell-capitals and semi-octagonal abaci; the
moulded bases are mutilated. The Nave (42 ft.
by 19 ft.) has a mid 14th-century N. arcade of
four bays, with clustered columns and responds,
which have moulded bases and capitals; the
two-centred arches are of two moulded orders,
and the label in the nave has head-stops, two of
the heads being crowned. The S. arcade, of
three bays, is of similar detail to the N. arcade,
and is of the same date; the westernmost label-stop is carved with the head of a bishop, repeated in modern cement over the first column.
The 14th-century window in the W. wall is
partly restored, and of three trefoiled ogee lights
and flowing tracery in a two-centred head; the
jambs and external label are moulded. The
clearstorey has four windows on the N. and
three on the S. side, each of three trefoiled
lights with a quatrefoil in a pointed segmental
head, and with a moulded external label, all of
the 15th century, restored. The North Aisle
(9 ft. wide) has a window in the E. wall, two
windows in the N. wall, and one in the W. wall,
all of the same date and design as those in the
chancel; between the windows in the N. wall is
a mid 14th-century doorway, with a two-centred
head, moulded jambs and partly restored bases;
a moulded string-course carried along the wall
inside forms a square label over the doorway.
The South Aisle (8½ ft. wide) has an E. window
and a S. window resembling those in the chancel; the S. doorway has plain chamfered jambs
and two-centred arch, the rear arch is moulded;
holes for a wooden draw-bar remain, and on
two of the external stones of the jambs are
marks of former sundials. The South Porch
has an outer archway of similar detail to the
N. doorway, and also of mid 14th-century
date; the label is modern; in each side wall is a
rectangular single light, and against the wall
a stone bench. The floor is paved with late
16th or early 17th-century brick. The South
West Tower (7½ ft. square) is of two stages, the
lower stage divided internally by an upper
floor; the embattled parapet is modern, and the
roof is flat, with a central post and weather-vane. The two-centred arch opening into the
S. aisle is of two moulded orders and has plain
splayed jambs; over the arch, in the aisle, is a
string-course, which shows the line of the
former steep-pitched roof. The S. and W.
walls have each a small lancet window, with
widely splayed jambs and a chamfered rear
arch, probably of late 13th-century date, considerably restored. The second storey has a
modern lancet in the S. wall. The staircase
leading up to the ringing chamber is probably
of late 16th-century date, and is of oak, with
a roughly worked square newel at the foot. The
bell-chamber has, in each wall, a modern window, with two small quatrefoil piercings above
it. The low-pitched Roof of the nave is of the
15th century and of four bays, with arched
trusses, traceried spandrels, and chamfered
tie-beams; the stone corbels are carved as
angels holding shields; in the W. wall are
courses of tiles, showing the line of the former
steep-pitched roof. The 15th-century roof of
the porch has moulded wall-plates, carved with
square flowers, and two queen-post trusses with
moulded timbers; in the middle of the N. tie-beam is a shield with the arms of Hampden, a
saltire between four eagles, and at each end a
shield charged with a cross, cut off at the ends;
between the shields are square flowers; the S.
tie-beam has six Tudor roses, and in the middle
a shield with the arms of Hampden.
Fittings—Bells: three, 2nd and 3rd, by Ellis
Knight, 1625. Brackets: for images, two, at the
corners of E. end of S. aisle, one supported by
carved head in a hood, probably 14th-century,
the other by carved angel with shield, probably later date than the first, and re-set (see
Miscellanea). Brasses: in the chancel—(1) of
John Hampden, 1496, and Elizabeth, his wife,
figures of man in plate armour, woman in pedimental head-dress, four sons, five daughters,
with inscription in black-letter, three shields
bearing arms of Hampden, Sidney and Popham;
(2) of Sir John Hampden, 1553, Elizabeth
[Savage], his first wife, and his second wife,
three figures, the knight in plate armour, with
three daughters, inscription in black-letter,
second wife not mentioned, and three shields
bearing arms of Hampden and alliances; (3)
to Griffith Hampden, 'Lord of Greate Hampden', 1591, and Anne, his second wife, daughter
of Anthony Cave, 1594, with inscription, and
shield quartering arms of Hampden, etc.,
impaling Cave; (4) to William, son of Griffith
Hampden, 1597, inscription and shield of twelve
quarters; (5) small slab with shield bearing the
arms of Hampden; (6) to William Hampden,
lord of Emmington, in the county of Oxon,
1612; (7) in large slab, plate with small figures
of three girls, another with four boys and one
girl, shield with arms of Horsey, three horses'
heads cut off at the neck, impaling Hampden, late 16th-century. Communion Table:
with baluster legs and plain rails, 17th-century, enlarged at each end. Font (see Plate,
p. xxvii.): cup-shaped bowl, with shallow
flutings, at the top band of ornament with
square flowers, stem with two bands of cable
moulding, large round moulding between them
enriched with pattern of interlacing bands of
pellet ornament, moulded base, probably late
13th-century. Monuments: In chancel—on
S. wall, (1) to Elizabeth, first wife of John
Hampden, daughter of Edmund Symeon, 1634,
Purbeck marble tablet with pediment, inscription and arms, marble in bad condition from
damp. In N. aisle—on N. wall, (2) to Richard,
son of Sir Edmund Hampden of Abington,
Northampton, 1662, and Ann, his wife, daughter
of Francis Lane, 1674–5, tablet of black and
white marble, with Ionic columns and pediment,
inscription and achievement of arms. Niches:
in cupboard at W. end of N. aisle, fragments,
with canopies, parts of pinnacles, angel-corbels, etc., some with original gilding, 15th-century: modern niches at E. end of chancel said
to be exact copies of the original niches.
Painting: on S. wall of nave, near W. end,
traces of large figure, inscription on scroll, part
of large wing, etc., only visible where modern
plaster has broken away. Piscinæ: in chancel,
with chamfered jambs and trefoiled head,
shallow circular basin, shelf at back, probably
13th-century: in S. aisle, with chamfered jambs
and cinque-foiled two-centred head, shallow
circular basin, shelf at back, probably c.
1350. Pulpit: modern, with one linen pattern
panel, early 16th-century. Seating: in the
nave, with book-rests, moulded top rails, linenpanelled standards, on N. side eight seats, with
two front desks and one back, linen-panelled, on
S. side, six seats, one front desk and one back,
panelled, early 16th-century. Stoup: E. of
S. doorway, in porch, with broken basin, probably late 15th or early 16th-century. Tiles:
in floor of chancel, on N. side of nave, and
in N. aisle, 4 in. square, various patterns,
mediæval, many much worn. Miscellanea: at
W. end of N. aisle, in cupboard, small carved
head of knight, in coil of chain mail, probably
early 14th-century, and other fragments (see
Niches): on sill of E. window of S. aisle eight
fragments, six of carved stone, two of moulded
stone, 14th-century; on floor, near the window,
one stone of small clustered pillar; all these
fragments were found recently, built into the
walls of the church.
Condition—Good.
b(2). Church (dedication unknown), in
Little Hampden, has walls of flint rubble,
restored with brick and covered with plaster;
the walls of the chancel are of modern flint,
with stone dressings; the porch is timber-framed, with plaster filling, on a brick base.
The roofs are tiled. The Nave was built in the
12th century; the Chancel was re-built and the
North Porch added probably in the 15th century. The building was considerably restored
in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The church is especially interesting on
account of the mediæval timber-framed porch
of two storeys; the 13th to 15th-century paintings in the nave are remarkable.
Architectural Description — The Chancel
(15½ ft. by 14 ft.) has a modern E. window, and
the windows at the E. end of the N. and S. walls
are also modern; at the W. end of the N. wall
is a small 13th-century lancet window with a
transom, the lower part rebated for a shutter
and retaining the original hooks for hinges, and
the bolt-hole. The two-centred chancel arch is
of one square order, re-built, but with many of
the stones from the original arch, one stone has
a much defaced 12th-century moulding; the
apex is of brick. The Nave (20 ft. by 13½ ft.)
has, in the N. wall, a doorway of late 14th
or early 15th-century date, with a two-centred
chamfered arch. In the S. wall are two 18th-century windows, the western in the place of
the former S. doorway, of which the lower part
is blocked. The W. window is modern. The
North Porch is of two storeys; the entrance
arch is two-centred, formed by timbers with
a natural curve. The small windows in the
upper storey are of the 18th or 19th century.
The Roof of the nave, probably of the 15th
century, is in two bays, with naturally cambered tie-beams, collar-beams, and curved
braces. The porch retains the original joists
and framing of the roof.
Fittings—Altar-slab (6 ft. 6 in. by 2 ft. 7 in.
by 3 in. thick): under the communion table,
stone, with original consecration crosses.
Communion Table: oak, with turned legs,
carved rail at the top, early 17th-century.
Image: built into the S. wall of chancel, small
figure of bishop (17 in. high), crozier in left
hand, traces of inscription, illegible, date
uncertain, much defaced. Paintings: in the
nave, uncovered in 1907 and carefully recorded,
said to have been in four series, one painted
over the other, the subjects are apparently as
follows:—the earliest, on each side of chancel
arch, which cuts into them, figure in mitre and
episcopal vestments, in niche with trefoiled
canopy, part of third figure remains on the S.
side, above and below them, band of running
scroll ornament in red, early 13th-century:
on N. wall, high up, traces of colour, possibly part of same design as on E. wall,
lower down, outline drawing of lions, probably 14th-century; E. of N. doorway two
figures, each with nimbus, outlined in red,
probably of St. Peter, holding book and key,
and St. Paul, holding sword, 13th-century;
above them, painted in the 15th century, large
figure of St. Christopher, with staff, figure of
the Child in his arms almost obliterated; on W.
side of doorway, another St. Christopher, early
13th-century: on S. wall at E. end, traces of
colour, probably continuation of the pattern on
the E. wall, between the windows representation of a 'Doom', probably 15th-century, over
western window, representation of St. Michael,
weighing souls, with figure of the Virgin at
one side of scales, much obliterated, 14th-century: on W. wall, under window, faint traces
of human figures and animals. Piscina: in
chancel, with two-centred, chamfered arch, and
band of running foliage under moulded head,
modern window cuts into W. side.
Condition—Generally good; the timbers of
the porch are decayed.
Secular
c(3). Hampden House, is a large building,
on the N. side of a park, on high ground S.W.
of Great Hampden church. It is of three
storeys, built of stone and brick, and entirely
covered with cement. The history of the structure is complex. The only remaining part of
the mediæval house is a small projecting wing
on the S., known as 'King John's Tower',
probably built of stone, but heavily plastered;
it retains some details of the 14th and 15th centuries. The original plan was probably E-shaped, the wings extending towards the S.;
the hall was in the central block, and may have
extended further towards the E. than at present, with the kitchen wing on the W., the
solar wing on the E., and the small central
wing, which still remains, forming a porch.
The E. and W. wings appear to have been re-built c. 1600, and retain some detail of that
date. About the middle of the 17th century the
present main staircase was added, and towards
the end of the century the hall was re-built. The
whole house was considerably altered and enlarged c. 1740, when additions, of two storeys,
were built at the N. and S. ends of the E. wing;
a little later in the 18th century two blocks for
domestic offices were added on the N. side, and
enclose a small courtyard between the central
block and the E. wing; the vestibule of the present main entrance on the W. is on the site of
the original kitchens in the W. wing; the interior of the house was also considerably altered
during the 18th century. Early in the 19th
century the exterior was completely covered
with cement; more recently some of the original
work has been exposed and carefully preserved
both inside and outside the building. The
walls of the central block between the wings are
of narrow red bricks with a diamond pattern
in black headers, visible only where the cement
has fallen off. The central projecting wing
has, in the S. wall, an external doorway of
c. 1400, with continuously moulded jambs and
four-centred head; the E. and W. walls, on
the ground floor have each a much restored window, with rear arches and splayed jambs of
c. 1400; in the E. wall, on the first floor, is a
window of two trefoiled lights with a quatrefoil
in a triangular head, and moulded jambs, of
the same date and detail as the doorway; in the
W. wall, on the first floor, is a long narrow
window, set very low, with obtuse pointed head
and similar mouldings to those of the other
windows, but on a smaller scale; all the mouldings are of clunch. W. of the central wing is
a doorway of c. 1600, not in situ and much restored. The only old chimney stacks are of
c. 1600, and have octagonal shafts with moulded
caps.
Interior:—On the ground floor of the central
wing is a doorway of mid 14th-century date,
with continuously moulded jambs and two-centred head; the moulded label has carved
head-stops. The main staircase, of mid 17th-century date, has a moulded handrail, balustrades of small arcades ornamented with
'planted on' foliage of classical type, and
square newels ornamented in the same way with
square urns and bunches of flowers and fruit.
On the first floor one room in the E. wing has a
fireplace with moulded jambs and stops of
c. 1600, and a modern head; in the N. wall, is a
window of the same date as the fireplace, with
moulded mullions and transom of clunch; this
wall was formerly external, but is now covered
by the 18th-century additions.
Condition—Good, but considerably altered.
c(4). The Old Rectory, about 1 mile S.S.E.
of Great Hampden Church, is of two storeys
and an attic. It was built probably in the 16th
century, but in the 18th and 19th centuries was
almost entirely re-faced with brick, and much
enlarged on the S. Some old timber-framing
with brick filling remains in the gable at the E.
end of the house. The roof is tiled. The original house seems to have been of the central
chimney type, facing N. and S. with an extra
parlour at the W. end; it now contains the
kitchens, on the E., some offices, the entrance
hall and a study, with bedrooms over them.
An original moulded beam supports the first
floor over the kitchen and offices.
Condition—Good, much altered.
b(5). The Manor House, now a farmhouse,
N.E. of Little Hampden Church, is of two
storeys, built of brick with some timber, and
partly covered with plaster. The roofs are
tiled. The plan is roughly T-shaped, with the
central wing projecting towards the N., built
probably early in the 17th century; the wing
running E. and W. was added later in the same
century. The house was considerably altered
in the 19th century; the older part is gabled
at the N. end, and the newer wing has half-hipped gables.
Condition—Good.
Unclassified
a, c(6–9). Grim's Ditch and three Moated
Mounds (see also Aston Clinton, Bradenham,
Buckland, Drayton Beauchamp, Great Missenden, Lee, Monks Risborough, Princes Risborough, and Wendover). The section of the
Ditch in this parish is the most continuous in
the county, and, like the other sections, consists
of a single rampart and ditch, with the ditch
S. of the rampart. The work first appears
in Oaken Grove, about two-thirds of a mile S.E.
of Hampden House, running in a northwesterly direction, after a gap of nearly two
miles from the last section near Woodlands
Park, Great Missenden, and continues, with intervals, for about 1¼ miles to the corner of
Kingsfield Wood, where the ditch turns at right
angles in a south-westerly direction through
Barnes Grove to Redland End, where it leaves
the parish. On the line of the ditch and at its
S.E. extremity are two large moated mounds
with causeways across the moats from N.W. to
S.E.; there is a similar mound in Hampden
Park, about ½ mile to the W.
Dimensions—The Rampart, at the strongest
point, 6 ft. above the bottom of the ditch, which
is about 3 ft. below the crest of the counter-scarp: the ditch, 36 ft. wide from crest to crest.
The larger of the two mounds on the line of the
ditch, 13 ft. high, 90 ft. in diameter at the
base.
Contour Fort, Pulpit Hill, Parish of Great and Little Kimble.
Condition—Good.