40. HEMPSTEAD. (C.b.)
(O.S. 6 in. (a)x. N.W. (b)x. S.W.)
Hempstead is a parish and small village about
6 m. E. of Saffron Walden.
a (1). Parish Church of St. Andrew stands
on the E. side of the village. The walls are of flint
rubble, with dressings of limestone and clunch,
except the E. wall and those of the N. chapel and
vestry, which are of brick. The roofs are covered
with tiles. The Nave, with N. and S. aisles, was
built c. 1350. In the 15th century the Chancel
was probably rebuilt, and the West Tower was
added. In the 16th century the E. end of the
chancel was rebuilt in brick. In the 17th century
the North Chapel and Vestry were added. Late
in the 19th century the W. tower fell, and the
church was generally restored in 1887, when the
chancel-arch and tower-arch and the North and
South Aisles were rebuilt, and the South Porch was
The 17th-century lead coffins, with modelled
faces, in the Harvey vault, are remarkable.
The Church, Plan
Architectural Description—The Chancel (22¾ ft.
by 17 ft.) has a 16th-century E. window of three
four-centred lights under a square head with a
moulded external label; the mullions are modern.
In the N. wall is a 17th-century doorway to the N.
vestry with chamfered jambs and three-centred
arch, all covered with plaster; further W. is a
rectangular opening to the N. chapel. In the S.
wall are three windows; the easternmost window
is of the 15th century, much restored, and of two
cinquefoiled lights under a square head; the middle
window is similar to the first, but the sill is carried
down lower than the other; the westernmost
window is modern, except part of the sill. Between
the two eastern windows is a modern doorway.
The chancel-arch is modern.
The North Vestry (17¾ ft. by 11¾ ft.) is entirely
of the 17th century. In the E. wall is a window
of two plain pointed lights with a moulded external
label; further N. is a doorway with chamfered
jambs and depressed arch. In the N. wall is a
window similar to that in the E. wall, but without
The North Chapel (17¾ ft. by 10¾ ft.) is entirely
of the 17th century, and has, in the N. wall, a
window of three lights, similar to that in the N. wall
of the vestry; the mullions and sill are modern.
In the W. wall is a modern arch.
The Harvey Vault, under the N. chapel and
vestry, has in the E. wall and in the N. wall, a 17th-century window with chamfered jambs and square
The Nave (56 ft. by 19 ft.) has 14th-century N.
and S. arcades each of four bays, with two-centred
arches of two moulded orders, and moulded labels
in the nave; the columns and responds have
clustered shafts with moulded capitals and bases.
The North Aisle (8 ft. wide) is modern, but the
three windows in the N. wall have moulded rear
arches, possibly of 14th-century material, re-cut.
Between the two western windows is a 14th-century
doorway, now blocked, with jambs and two-centred
head of two moulded orders, slightly restored; the
rear arch is moulded. In the W. wall the modern
window has a moulded rear arch and external
label of the 14th century.
The South Aisle (8 ft. wide) is modern, and has,
in the E. wall, a window of two lights, all modern,
except the sill and bases of the moulded jambs and
mullion, which are of the 14th century. The three
windows in the S. wall and the one in the W. wall
are uniform with those in the corresponding walls
of the N. aisle. The S. doorway is uniform with
the N. doorway but is not blocked.
The West Tower (about 14 ft. by 13 ft.) fell down in
the 19th century, and only the plinth of the N. wall,
the base of the right-angled N.W. buttresses, and
part of the N. jamb of the W. door now remain
above ground. The moulded plinth has flint
chequer-work panels. The tower-arch is modern
and is blocked. The 15th-century jamb of the W.
doorway is of two moulded orders; near it, above
the plinth, is one trefoiled ogee-headed panel with
a shield, ermine a cheveron engrailed, probably for
Winslow. A large quantity of worked stones from
the fallen tower are now stored in the Harvey vault
and include a carved gargoyle and three panels
similar to that still in situ; the shields bear (a) a
fesse with a label of three points; (b) the same with a
ring on the centre point of the label; (c) blank.
The Roofs of the N. vestry and N. chapel are
flat and each has a 17th-century chamfered beam.
The ceiling of the Harvey vault has a large stop-chamfered beam and plain joists of the 17th century.
Fittings—Bells: five and sanctus; sanctus now
in vestry, 5th lying in churchyard, rest in wooden
shed in churchyard: 1st by Anthony Bartlet,
1664; 3rd by John Tonne, 16th-century, inscribed
"Barbara sirenum melos dulcedine vinco"; 4th by
John and Christopher Hodson, 1678; 5th by
Stephen Tonne of Bury St. Edmunds, 1575;
sanctus dated 1662. Brasses and Indents.
Brasses: In N. chapel—(1) said to be of [Thomas
Huntingdon, 1498, and Margaret (Tyrrell) his wife,]
figure of man in plate armour and woman in pedimental head-dress, four shields (a) fretty a chief
with three molets thereon, for Huntingdon; (b)
Huntingdon impaling two cheverons and a border
engrailed with a cinquefoil for difference, for Tyrrell;
(c) Huntingdon quartering 1 and 4 nine crosslets
fitchy, 2 and 3 a cheveron and a quarter with a lion
therein; (d) Huntingdon impaling Tyrrell quartering 2 and 3 three scutcheons, 4 barry wavy a chief;
indent of inscription. In nave—(2) of civilian and
wife, c. 1530, with two groups of children and indent
of inscription; (3) of civilian, c. 1480, with indents
of figure of wife and two groups of children; (4) to
Richard Westley, 1518, and Joan his wife, inscription only; (5) of civilian and wife, c. 1475, with
indent of inscription; (6) said to be of [William
Mordaunt, 1518, and Anne (Huntingdon) his wife],
large figure of man in fur-trimmed cloak, group of
ten sons, indents of figure of wife, group of daughters
and four shields. Indents: In nave—(1) of
floriated cross, with animal at base, and marginal
inscription; (2) of inscription plate; (3) of figures
of man and wife c. 1480, two groups of children, and
inscription plate. Chest: In vestry, of oak with
three strap-hinges, angles strengthened by irons
which pass through the angle-stiles, three locks,
probably 16th-century. Doors: In chancel—
in doorway to vestry, of battens with chamfered
three-panel frame planted on, 15th or 16th-century, head probably 17th-century. In E.
doorway of vestry—battened door with small
drop-handle, solid leaded frame, 17th-century.
Font: square tapering bowl, with corners cut off,
on round central shaft and four small detached
shafts, all with moulded capitals and bases, c. 1350.
Monuments and Floor-slabs. Monuments: In N.
chapel—against E. wall, (1) to members of the
Harvey family—Eliab, 1661, Sarah his daughter,
1655, Elizabeth, another daughter, 1656; Mary
his wife, 1673; Sir Eliab Harvey, 1698; Eliab,
son of Sir Eliab, 1681; Elizabeth, wife of Edward
Harvey, 1695; Matthew, son of Sir Eliab, 1692;
Mary, daughter of the third Eliab, wife of Sir
William Whitmore, baronet, 1710; large black
and white marble monument with cleft pediment
and cartouche of arms; (2) to Sir William Harvey,
of Roehampton, 1719, and Bridgett (Browne)
his wife, 1701, large white marble monument
with a column and urn, in a recess, impaled coat
of arms. In N. aisle—on N. wall, (3) of William
Harvey, chief physician to James I and Charles I,
discoverer of the circulation of the blood, 1657,
black and white marble tablet with crest and
cartouche of arms. Floor-slab: In chancel—to
Margerie de Basingge with marginal inscription,
early 14th-century. Coffins: In the Harvey vault,
under the N. chapel and vestry—thirteen lead
coffins with shaped heads and modelled faces of the
following members of the Harvey family—Eliab,
1661; Mary, 1673; Sarah, 1655; Eliab, 1681;
Dorothy, 1686; Matthew, first page of honour to
William III., 1692; Elizabeth, 1659; 'Marey,'
1677; Mary, 1664; Elizabeth, 1695; Dorothea,
1691; E. H., 1686, and M. H., 1695. Panelling:
In vestry—loose, remains of pew enclosure including carved pierced panels, moulded rail with
turned finials, and panelled door with shaped
balusters at the top, 17th-century. Piscinæ: In
chancel—with chamfered jambs and head, restored
in cement, 15th-century; further W., with chamfered jambs and segmental-pointed head, possibly
piscina, 14th or 15th-century, head partly modern.
In S. aisle—with double hollow-chamfered jambs
and trefoiled ogee head, remains of foiled basin,
c. 1350, much damaged. Plate: includes a cup of
1561, and a secular bowl of 1630, with repoussé
ornament and a foiled edge and two handles.
Seating: In N. chapel—tops of two bench-ends with
crudely carved foliage finials, late 15th-century,
made up with modern work. Miscellanea: In
vestry—three stones carved with faces, probably
from the 15th-century tower. In nave—at N.E.
corner, funeral helm with the Harvey crest, 17th-century.
a (2). 700 yards N.W. of the church, said to
enclose the site of Wincelow Hall.
a (3). Near Lakehouse Farm, 1¾ m. E. of the
church, apparently contained a smaller enclosure
at the N.E. corner.
a (4). Hempstead Hall, house and moat, 1¾ m.
E.N.E. of the church. The House is of two storeys
with attics; the walls are of weather-boarded
timber-framing; the roofs are tiled. It was built
c. 1580, probably on an H-shaped plan with the
cross-wings at the E. and W. ends. The E. wing
has been rebuilt and has a large modern addition,
and the W. wing has an 18th-century extension.
In the middle block is a large original chimney-stack with two sunk panels, a moulded capping and
four octagonal shafts, each with a moulded base and
oversailing top. Inside the building, on the ground
floor in the E. wing, is some early 17th-century
panelling, re-set; and on the first floor is a panelled
door of the same date. In the original chimney-stack in the middle block is a fireplace, probably
original, with a three-centred head and chamfered
jambs, now plastered and painted. In one room
is a stop-chamfered ceiling-beam.
The Moat, S. of the present house, encloses an
approximately L-shaped island, and is crossed on
the N. side by a wooden bridge which retains some
old curved braces.
Condition—Of house, good.
a (5). Church Farm, house and moat, 300 yards
E.S.E. of the church. The House is of two storeys,
the walls are of plastered timber-framing; the roofs
are tiled. The plan is L-shaped, with the wings
extending towards the W. and N. The W. wing
is probably of early 17th-century date; the N.
wing was added late in the 17th or early in the 18th
century, and at the same time a small staircase projection was built in the angle between the wings.
The date 1775 on the N. wing probably refers
only to repairs or alterations. The original
chimney-stack of the W. wing has grouped diagonal
shafts on a square base with a moulded capping.
Inside the building in both wings are exposed
ceiling-beams. In the N. wing is a wide open
fireplace containing an old jack.
The Moat is incomplete.
Condition—Of house, good.
The following monuments, unless otherwise
described, are of the 17th-century and of two
storeys, timber-framed and plastered; the roofs
are tiled or thatched. Some of the buildings have
exposed ceiling-beams, wide fireplaces and original
Condition—Good or fairly good, unless noted.
High Street, W. side
a (6). House, now two tenements, ¼ m. S.W. of
the church, with modern additions on the N.W. side
and at the N.E. end. The upper storey projects
on the northern half of the S.E. elevation, and at
the original N.E. end.
a (7). Cottage, now two tenements, 300 yards
S.W. of the church.
a (8). House, now two tenements, 80 yards N.
of (7), was built on an L-shaped plan with the wings
extending towards the N.E. and S.E. There are
modern additions on the N.W. side of the N.E.
wing, and on the S.W. side of the S.E. wing. Inside
the building, in the upper storey, is an original
brick fireplace with a four-centred head surmounted
by a moulded cornice.
a (9). The Crown Inn, 120 yards N.N.E. of (8),
has a slightly projecting wing at the S.W. end of
the S.E. side, and a modern addition at the back.
a (10). Cottage, 200 yards N.N.E. of (9), with
modern additions at the N. and S. ends. The
original chimney-stack has a modern shaft on an
original square base with a moulded capping.
Condition—Good, except thatch.
a (11). Cottage, now two tenements, 1/8m. N.N.E.
of (10), with a modern addition at the back. Inside the building is an original battened door.
a (12). Cottage, now two tenements, 800 yards
N.N.E. of the church, with a modern addition at
a (13). Blagden Farm (see Plate, p. xxvii), house,
¾ m. N.E. of (12), was built in the second half of the
16th century, on a T-shaped plan with the cross-wing at the S. end. At the end of the N. wing and
on the N. side of the cross-wing are modern additions. The original central chimney-stack in the
cross-wing has four octagonal shafts, modern
at the top, on a square base with a moulded
a (14). Ruses, house and two barns, 300 yards S.
of (13). The House is of a modified L-shaped
plan with the wings extending towards the N.W.
and S.W. There is a modern addition on the S.W.
side of the N.W. wing.
The Barns, N.E. and N.W. of the house respectively, are weather-boarded.
a (15). Cottage, now three tenements, 350 yards
S.W. of the church.
a (16). Cottage, 60 yards S.W. of (15). Inside
the building is an original fireplace with a three-centred head and chamfered jambs.
b (17). Cottage, about ¾ m. S.S.W. of the church.
Condition—Fairly good, except thatch.
a (18). Cottage, now three tenements, 80 yards
S.S.W. of the church, with a modern addition at the
S.W. corner. Inside the building is a 17th-century
panelled door, with small balusters in the top
a (19). House, opposite (18), was built on an
L-shaped plan with the wings extending towards
the S.E. and N.E. There are modern additions
on the N.W. side. On the S.W. front the upper
storey projects and has curved and chamfered
brackets. The original central chimney-stack has
grouped diagonal shafts on a rectangular base with
a moulded capping.
a (20). Cottage, 300 yards S.E. of the church,
nearly opposite Church Farm, with a small modern
addition at the E. end.
a (21). Pollards Cross Farm, house, 3/8 m. E. of
the church, is of two storeys with attics. It was
built in the second half of the 16th century on a
modified L-shaped plan with the wings extending
towards the W. and N. There are modern additions
on the W. side and at the end of the N. wing. The
doorway to one of the modern additions has an
original door of moulded and studded battens, with
a drop-handle and strap-hinges with ornamental
ends, re-hung. In the S. wall is an original window
of four lights with moulded oak mullions and
transom. The original chimney-stack has four
tall shafts with moulded bases and modern at the
top; on one side of the rectangular base is a sunk
panel with chamfered edges.
Inside the building on the ground floor, are two
original moulded wall-plates. and an original fireplace with a four-centred arch and moulded brick
jambs. On the first floor are two similar fireplaces;
one of them has a moulded shelf, and a partition
of old panelling now covered with paper. There
are several late 16th or early 17th-century panelled
doors, two with carved frieze-panels.
a (22). Boyton's Farm, house and barn, ½ m.
N.E. of the church. The House was built in the
16th century on an L-shaped plan with the wings
extending towards the S.W. and S.E. On the
N.E. elevation is an original projecting chimney-stack with remains of grouped diagonal shafts.
Inside the building, in the S.E. wing, on both floors
are original moulded ceiling-beams, and on the
ground floor are wall-posts with moulded capitals.
There are two original fireplaces, each with a
four-centred head; one fireplace has moulded
and the other has chamfered jambs. An original
doorway has a four-centred head, and there are
several original battened doors with large straphinges. In the N.E. wall are two original windows,
now blocked, and each of three lights with moulded
The Barn, N.E. of the house, is of seven bays
with two projections and an aisle. The walls
are of weather-boarded timber on a foundation of
a (23). Cottage, at Cabbage End, about 1,600
yards E.S.E. of the church.
a (24). Philip's Farm, house, 300 yards E. of
a (25). Field's Farm, house, 500 yards S.W. of
(24), with a modern addition at the E. end. The
original chimney-stack has sunk panels and four
octagonal shafts with moulded bases. Inside the
building, on the ground floor, is a wall-post with
remains of a carved projecting top. There are
three original fireplaces with four-centred heads
and chamfered jambs; two of them have raised
hearths with moulded oak frames, and are each
surmounted by a moulded shelf and a sunk panel.
There are two original panelled doors and two
battened doors, one with strap-hinges ending in
fleurs de lis.
a (26). Lakehouse Farm, house, now two tenements, about 1¾ m. E. of the church, was built
late in the 16th or early in the 17th century, but
the S. end has been destroyed. There are modern
additions on the E. side. The original S. chimney-stack has grouped diagonal shafts on a square
base with a moulded capping. Inside the building,
on the ground floor, in the N. room is a wall-post
with a slightly ornamented top.
a (27). Little Bulls Farm, house, nearly 2 m. N.E.
of the church, was built early in the 17th century;
there is an addition, possibly of later 17th-century
date, at the N. end of the E. side. The S. end of
the house and part of the N. side have been refaced with modern brick. On the W. and N.
elevations of the original block the timber-framing
is exposed and has brick nogging, apparently
a (28). Bulls Bridge Farm, house, ¼ m. N.E.
of (27), is of two storeys with attics. The roofs
are covered with slate. The additions on the
N. side and at the E. end are modern.
a (29). Cottage, 800 yards N.N.E. of (13). The
original chimney-stack has grouped diagonal shafts
on a rectangular base with a moulded capping;
attached to the angle-shafts are small coped
a (30). Cottage, 700 yards N.W. of (13).
a (31). Spitland, house, ¾ m. N. of the church,
with a modern addition at the W. end.
Condition—E. part, bad.
a (32) and (33). Howland's Cottages, two, 400
yards E. of (31).
a (34). Witchtree. house, 1,100 yards N.N.E. of
the church, was built in the 16th century, but has a
modern slate roof. On the N.E. front part of the
upper storey projects, and is supported on an
original moulded beam. Inside the building, on
the ground floor, are two wall-posts with moulded
a (35). Mound, at the junction of three roads
in the village.