35 SWANAGE (0278)
(O.S. 6 ins. aSZ 07 NW, bSZ 08 SW)
The Urban District of Swanage, covering some
3,800 acres, lies 8 miles S.E. of Wareham in the S.E.
corner of the Isle of Purbeck with the sea forming its
S. and E. boundaries. It comprises a roughly rectangular
area, the S. third of which is a rolling limestone tableland of Purbeck Beds, scarred by old quarries, between
200 ft. and 400 ft. high. N. of this the land falls into a
broad open valley cut in the soft Wealden Beds. Beyond
is the steep ridge of the Purbeck Hills rising to over
500 ft. on the N. boundary. Originally a part of Worth
Matravers, Swanage became a separate parish in c. 1500
(Hutchins I, 656), and until the 19th century it also
included a narrow strip of heathland running N. to the
shores of Poole Harbour and covering nearly 600 acres,
now in Studland parish.
Though a great part of the area is now occupied by
modern housing development, originally, as elsewhere
in the Isle of Purbeck, the settlement pattern was one
of many settlements each associated with a rectangular
block of land; some of these are still marked by continuous field lines. There are two Swanages listed in
Domesday Book, perhaps separate settlements in the
area of the present town. In addition there were Domesday settlements at Herston, W. of Swanage, at Moulham, now probably Godlingston Manor, and at
Whitecliff Farm to the N. of the town. Newton,
between Swanage and Herston, and Ulwell, at the
mouth of a narrow gap through the Purbeck Hills,
were both certainly in existence by the early 14th
The buildings of the old town are of local stone and
are strung out along the line of the High Street running
eastwards to the sea. Though Welsh slates for roofing
were introduced in the early 19th century, the local stone
is the predominating material for roofs as well as for
walls. The export of stone from Swanage was developed
in the 18th century and towards the end of that century
William Morton Pitt of Kingston Maurward attempted
to establish a fishing and fish-curing industry here. He
also started the development of the town as a resort
with the conversion of the Manor House into an hotel,
which later became the Royal Victoria (Hutchins I,
The stone trade with London led to the establishment
of the Swanage family of Mowlem as London contractors and Mr. Burt, one of the partners, brought back
to Swanage a number of relics of London; these include
the front of the Town Hall from the old Mercers' Hall,
statuary from the Royal Exchange now at Purbeck
House (40), lamp standards formerly erected along the
sea front and the Clock Tower, now in the grounds of
the Grosvenor Hotel, which was first erected in 1854
at the S. end of London Bridge as a memorial to the
Duke of Wellington.
The Town Hall and Godlingston Manor are the
a(1) The Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin
stands in the middle of the parish, to the N. of High
Street. The walls are of roughly coursed local rubble
with ashlar dressings; the roof of the tower is covered
with lead, the other roofs are covered with stone slates.
Fragments of early 13th-century stonework are preserved in the church but the only mediaeval structure
remaining is the West Tower, of the 14th century; the
tower was heightened in c. 1620 when the rest of the
church was partly rebuilt; apart from the tower, the
church was completely rebuilt by T. H. Wyatt 1859–60
and greatly enlarged in 1907.
Architectural Description—The Nave has a window W. of
the S. porch, of the 19th century although modelled on the
former late 14th-century E. window; it has three main lights
and six tracery lights and incorporates a reused late 14th-century rear arch, chamfered and two-centred and with
spandrels pierced by quatrefoils, set on 19th-century springers.
The West Tower (15 ft. square) is of five storeys divided
externally into four stages by weathered offsets and surmounted by a string-course and parapet. There is no tower
arch, but in the E. wall is a wide recess in which is a late 19th-century doorway; in the N. wall is a modern doorway; in
the W. wall is a 15th-century window of two cinque-foiled
lights with vertical tracery in a two-centred head set in an
older door opening. The second storey is reached by an
external stairway leading to a restored doorway with two-centred head in the N. wall; this storey has small loop lights
in N., S. and W. walls in the lower part of the second external
stage; in the upper part of this storey the E. and W. walls
retain the outline of the gable ends of the original tower roof
and in the N. and S. walls are continuous chamfered stone
corbels to carry the roof. There is no apparent change in the
masonry between the 14th-century walling of the lower part
and the 17th-century work above. In the upper part of the
second stage are loop lights in each wall lighting the ringing
chamber in the third storey; that to the E. opens into the
nave. The third stage also has a loop light in each wall, those
to the S. and W. masked by clock faces. The top stage contains the bell chamber and has in each wall a window of two
uncusped lights with two-centred heads and filled with stone-slate louvres. The roof is carried on original timbers and
covered with lead dated 1713.
Fittings—Bells: eight; 4th dated 1594, 5th dated 1612, both
by John Wallis; 6th by Lester and Pack, 1764, recast 1888;
7th by John Wallis, 1621 recast 1940. Brasses and Indent.
Brasses: in N. aisle—(1) to Susan, wife of Brune Cockram,
'Parson of Sanwch.', 1641; (2) to John Harve, 1510/11; in S.
aisle—(3) to Thomas son of Anthony Serrell of Swanwhich,
1639; (4) to Henry Welles of Godlinstone, second son of
Thomas Welles, 1607, and Mary (Pole) his first wife, sister
and heir to John Pole of Godlinstone, 1560; in tower vestry—
(5) to William Clavell and Margaret and Alice his wives, two
female figures wearing gowns trimmed with ermine, flanking
an indent for a male figure, and black-letter inscription, mid
15th-century; the brasses have been refixed. Indent: in nave,
for a rectangular inscription plate. Coffin-lids: reset in pier of
N. arcade, (1) with raised foliated cross on stepped Calvary;
loose in N. transept, (2) top half of slab with elaborate cross
head and with palmette ornament on chamfer; both early
14th-century. Font: of Purbeck stone, with hexagonal bowl,
dated 1663, pedestal modern, (now in the church of St. Mark,
Herston). Inscription: in N. aisle, on stone tablet, 'Lewis
Cockram Iohn Allford church wardens 1684'.
Monuments and Floor-slabs. Monuments: in chancel—on S.
wall, (1) to the Rev. Sam. Gale, M.A., Rector, 1816, wall-tablet
with pediment against a slate background, signed Skelton,
York; (2) to the Rev. George Taylor, M.A., 1834, wall-tablet
with shield-of-arms and crest; (3) to the Rev. William Taylor,
1823, sarcophagus-shaped tablet with pediment against a
slate background, signed E. Gaffin, Regent Street, London;
(4) to Louisa Caroline Josephine Coventry, 1841, white tablet
against a black ground; (5) to Capt. Frederick Coventry of
the 29th Regiment, 1846, uniform with last. In nave—on W.
wall, (6) to John Chapman, merchant, 1733, Mary his daughter,
1749, and Susan Chapman, 1774, marble tablet with recessed
stone sides, enriched cornice with cartouche of arms and
finial above; (7) to Joseph Edmonds, Commander of the
Defiance in 1758, died 1794, and Priscilla his wife, 1801, and
their sons, James, Commander of the New Albion, 1794,
and John, Commander of the Dorset, 1794, white marble
tablet with stone surround and cornice supporting a sarcophagus between putti and below a shield-of-arms, all against
a slate background, on the sarcophagus a panel depicting a
naval engagement; (8) to Timothy Chinchen, 1766, Mary his
wife, 1767, and Mary, wife of their son Timothy, 1790,
marble tablet with cartouche of arms in moulded base below,
and cornice and urn above; in N. aisle—on N. wall, (9) to
Nathan Chinchen, 1840, marble tablet with draped urn
against black ground, signed Gillingham and Son, Winton;
(10) to Peter Marsh, merchant, 1811, and Hester his wife,
1845, marble tablet in rectangular frame; in N. transept—(11)
to George Bissett, Cdr. R.N., 1843, sarcophagus-shaped marble
tablet on black ground; in S. transept—(12) to Sarah, wife of
Capt. M. Cole, R.N., 1788, and two children, oval tablet with
ribands above and shell and cherub's head below. In churchyard
—S. of tower, (13) to Katherine Henrietta, infant daughter of
Timothy and Mary Chinchen, 1781, headstone (Plate 21)
carved with cherubs blowing trumpets, a coronet, and a
border of vine-scroll ornament. Floor-slabs: in nave—(1) to
William Rose, Rector, 1690, and Dorothy his wife, 1705/6;
(2) to William Rose, son of the last, 1700, with shield-of-arms;
(3) to Thomas Cockram of Whitecliff, son of Brune Cockram,
formerly Rector, 1716(?); (4) to William, son of John Taylor
of the Island of Nevis, 1789; in N. aisle—(5) to Joan, wife of
Thomas Chapman, 1727; (6) to Thomas Chapman, 1711. The
inscriptions of (1) and (2) are badly worn but are recorded in
Hutchins I, 678.
Plate: includes a fine gilt set of cup, paten and flagon of
1692 (Plates 25, 26), the cup inscribed 'The gift of Mrs.
Elizabeth Toope wife of Mr. Abraham Story Cittizen &
Mason of London. An Dom 1693'; a paten perhaps of 1708;
alms-dish, of pewter, stamped IG MS, perhaps 17th-century.
Sundial: loose in N. transept, rectangular stone block with
dials cut on four faces, 17th-century. Tables of the Decalogue:
in chancel, flanking E. window, two panels in arched frames
with panelled side pilasters, 18th-century reset. Miscellanea:
loose in N. transept—architectural fragments including part
of an early 13th-century foliated capital for a clustered pier,
many fragments of 13th-century shafts, parts of two cusped
window heads, perhaps 15th-century, and other pieces of
b(2) The Church of All Saints, Ulwell Road
(029800), is modern but contains a stone Font of 1751
(Plate 9) formerly in Melcombe Horsey church; payment for carriage of the new font from Blandford is
recorded in the Melcombe churchwardens' accounts in
The circular bowl is moulded below a band of bay-leaf
and riband ornament; the stem is fluted and has a band of
acanthus ornament at the top; it stands on a small ogeemoulded base. The oak cover is modern but finishes with a
pineapple finial from an 18th-century cover.
The Church of St. Mark, Herston, (see (1), Font
a(3) Congregational Chapel, with walls of coursed,
squared rubble and slated roof, was built in 1837 to
replace a chapel of 1705 on the same site; the builders
were Smedmore and Spencer and 'Mr. Geo. Gollop
of Poole drew the plans' (Dorset Quarter Sessions
Orders, 16 Jan. 1705/6, 17 July 1706; W. Densham and
J. Ogle Congregational Churches of Dorset (1899), 311).
In the late 19th century a new chapel was built to the E.
and the building of 1837 converted to a schoolroom.
Congregational Chapel, Plan
The S. front has a central square porch rising the full height
of the building; plinth, string-course and parapet of the main
wall are continued round the porch. In the porch are two
doorways with semicircular fanlights and keystones inscribed
'Built 1705' and 'Rebuilt 1837'; above the doorways is a
window with semicircular head; the other windows have low
segmental heads. The Meeting Room (36½ ft. by 32 ft.)
contains a gallery round the S., E. and W. sides carried on
iron columns of quatrefoil section and approached by a staircase in the porch; along the S. wall only is a second gallery
at a higher level. Fittings—Monument: on W. wall, to Samuel
Marsh, deacon, 1841, and Margaret his wife, 1807, and their
a(4) Town Hall (275 yds. E.) is a stone building of
two lofty storeys erected in 1882, incorporating in the
middle of the main elevation a frontispiece (Plate 156)
brought from the Mercers' Hall, London, which was
designed by Edward Jarman after the Fire of 1666 and
built by his successor John Oliver. (fn. 1)
The lower part is rusticated and has a central doorway,
round-headed and with continuous moulded and enriched
jambs and scrolled keystone; to each side are pilasters with
panels filled with banded foliage and supporting heavily
enriched brackets carrying a balcony; between the brackets
are cupids and swags flanking a female bust; the upper part
is in fine ashlar and has two Ionic pilasters carrying a broken
segmental pediment; outside the main pilasters, half pilasters
are finished to scrolls at the bottom; a central round-headed
window is flanked by small pilasters with a hood above
carried on console brackets. Flanking the central window are
niches and inscription panels—'Old front of Mercers' Hall
designed by Sir Christopher Wren' (sic); 'Erected by George
Burt Sheriff of London and Middlesex 1878'; 'Cheapside
1670'; 'Swanage 1882'; and above is an oval window with
carved wreath surround. The attic storey has a niche, rising
out of the broken pediment, flanked by circular windows with
carved wreath surrounds with a dentilled cornice and balustraded parapet above. The balcony has a wrought iron balustrade with fluted and enriched balusters and panels of foliage
with the date 1670.
a(5) Lock-up, immediately N. of Town Hall, with ashlar
walls and stone-slated roof, is a small rectangular structure,
10 ft. by 8 ft., with a barrel-vaulted ceiling. It has a doorway in
one end with a plain string-course and relieving arch above and
a tablet inscribed 'Erected for the Prevention of Vice & Immorality by the Friends of Religion & good Order A.D. 1803'.
The door is nail-studded and the one small window is fitted
with a grill.
Pump, beside the lock-up, of cast iron surmounted by a
finial with reeded base and ball top (Plate 63), is of the second
quarter of the 19th century.
a(6) Lamp Standards, on The Parade and Beach Road
(¼ m. to ½ m. W. and N.W.), are of cast iron and of the first
half of the 19th century. Ten standards are inscribed 'SAINT
GEORGE HANOVER SQUARE', whence they were brought in the
late 19th century; each has a fluted drum at the base with a
plaque of St. George and the Dragon, above which bands of
monsters' heads, gadrooning, rosettes and foliage support the
main fluted shafts (Plate 63). One standard has a square base
splayed to an octagon with crowned monograms of George IV.
Other standards, with octofoil shafts rising from foliage above
banded bases are inscribed 'CITY OF LONDON'. (All removed)
a(7) Swanwick House, former Rectory, has rubble walls
and roofs covered with stone slates. The S.E. part of the house
was built in the 17th century, perhaps incorporating some
mediaeval masonry in the E. end; the middle part was built
in the early 18th century; W. and N.E. wings were added in
the 19th century. The interior has been drastically altered and
converted to two dwellings. The S. elevation has a symmetrical 18th-century centrepiece with plat-band and three
windows to each floor with plain architraves and keystones;
the central lower window was originally a doorway. In the
E. end is a doorway with a triangular stone lintel inscribed
1667 W.R. July 10th; close to it are the remains of a blocked
opening with chamfered trefoiled head. The initials and date
are probably for William Rose, instituted as Rector in that year
(cf. Monument (1), Floor-slab (1) under Fittings). Barn, 20 yds.
S.E. of the house, with rubble walls and stone-slated roof, is
probably of the 17th century but has been much altered, and
the roof is modern.
a(8) Royal Victoria Hotel, originally the Manor
House, and named after the visit of Princess Victoria
in 1835 (Hutchins I, 657), stands at the E. end of High
Street on sloping ground giving elevations of two and
three storeys. The walls are rendered with stucco, the
roofs covered with slates. It is of the first half of the 18th
century, with flanking wings of the early 19th century
and later additions.
The N. elevation is symmetrical and partly masked by a
19th-century glazed portico; the basement is here above
ground. The middle part is recessed and has four giant Ionic
pilasters to the two main storeys carrying an entablature and
pediment with dentils. The central doorway has a rusticated
and moulded architrave and keystone and a segmental pediment over. The first-floor windows have moulded stone
architraves and retain the original sashes with thick glazing
bars but the sashes of the original ground-floor windows have
been reused in the glazed portico. To each side the elevation
breaks forward and has plain hung-sash windows. Early 19th
century wings project further on each side, each with a bay
window on the inward-facing elevation and a window on the
end elevation of three unequal lights separated by pilasters
under a segmental head and with a wrought iron balcony. The
S. elevation has a symmetrical middle part of two storeys with
18th-century windows set in moulded architraves with keystones and linked by plat-bands, and a central doorway with
flat hood. Inside, the basement is mostly covered with brick
vaulting carried on circular stone pillars; on the second floor
some of the rooms retain 18th-century panelling, doors, dadorails and cornices. Stable, to S.W., of one storey and loft, has a
rubble plinth and ashlar above; to the E. are four windows
of one and two lights with architraves; the S. end has a square-headed doorway to the ground floor and a round-headed
doorway to the loft, both with plain architraves.
a(9) Marine Villas (900 yds. E.), at approach to pier,
two dwellings with brick walls rendered with stucco
and low-pitched slated roof, are dated 1825 and were
built as Baths, with Billiard and Coffee Rooms above,
to the design of Charles Wallis of Dorchester (D.C.C.
10 March 1825).
The S. elevation has slightly projecting end bays each
having a tall blind recess with semicircular head of two orders;
the centre part has, symmetrically arranged, two doorways
under a wrought-iron trelliswork porch between two round-headed windows and four rectangular hung-sash windows
above; a third doorway also has a wrought-iron trellis porch.
The other elevations are symmetrically designed, with hungsash windows.
a(10) Grosvenor Hotel (1,000 yds. E.) is a late 19th-century
building with older fragments, brought from elsewhere, in the
grounds:—Ionic Columns, three, one incomplete, of Portland
stone, about 16 ft. high, perhaps 18th-century. Windows,
reset in a length of stone wall, two, of one and two two-centred lights in square heads with sunk spandrels and moulded
labels, 17th-century. Window, adjoining last, of two cinque-foiled lights with sunk spandrels in a square head, 15th-century,
said to have been brought from Kingston Church, see Corfe
a(11) Newton Manor (020789) includes part of a late
17th-century house of one storey and attics, now forming the N. kitchen wing, a late 17th-century barn
converted to a dining hall, an 18th-century house
joining the two last and of three storeys with attics, an
18th-century cottage at the W. end of the barn, and
The main part of the house was refronted in the late 19th
century in ashlar with the addition of an embattled parapet
and embattled porch. The N. wing retains an original window
with moulded stone jambs, head and label, but the mullions
are missing. The barn which forms the main part of the W.
wing has been drastically altered, with modern stone-mullioned windows and central lantern. At the W. end of the
barn the 18th-century cottage, which forms the W. end of the
wing, is of one storey and has a restored 17th-century stone-mullioned window reset in the S. wall.
The interior has been much altered but contains a number
of fittings brought from elsewhere in the late 19th century
by Sir Charles Robinson, Director of the Victoria and Albert
Museum: these include a staircase with scrolled balusters of
the 17th or early 18th century and several doors, all of foreign
origin; a pair of late 18th-century doors, said to have come
from Wareham, with the upper panels glazed behind iron
bars and fleurs-de-lys; and pieces of carved frieze-work with
the dates 1656 and 1658. Outbuilding, immediately S. of house,
is of the late 17th or early 18th century and has a reset 17th-century stone-mullioned window; over the doorway is a
reset carved stone shield with helmet and mantling of the late
17th century (Plate 61), the shield bearing faintly the painted
arms of Colt or Culliford quartering Chapman; over the E.
gable is a weather-vane in the form of a winged fish, perhaps
from Billingsgate Market (Notes and Queries, 13th Series,
1 (1923), 298).
b(12) Godlingston Manor (015802), of one storey
and attics and two storeys, was built probably c. 1300
on a rectangular plan with a rounded tower at the W.
end (Plate 157), presumably as a defensible place. In the
early 17th century the main part of the house was
drastically altered: the N. wall was rebuilt and a turret
staircase added to provide access to an upper floor then
inserted over the hall, and an E. cross wing was built.
In the mid 18th century a kitchen wing was added to
the N.; this was extended W. later in the same century.
In the late 19th century the cross wing was rebuilt after
a fire and the mediaeval building was remodelled
The main S. front has a doorway of c. 1300 with chamfered
and trefoiled two-centred head and continuous jambs with
shaped stops; Hutchins (I, 669) records a similar doorway,
without trefoiling, opposite in the N. wall. The square-headed windows with stone mullions are mainly of the early
17th century. The W. tower, of two storeys with a conical
roof, is lit through loops; a doorway to the S. has been
blocked and the N. doorway inserted or altered. The tower
has stone nesting boxes above the level of the former first-floor
a(13) South Barn Farmhouse (028778), originally a barn,
bears a date-stone Rd. Talbot 1824; it has been converted to a
dwelling, with modern stone-mullioned windows. Stable, of
the early 19th century, has two semicircular windows in the
S. elevation and a round-headed window in the E. gable; the
loft floor is carried on cast-iron columns.
The following monuments, unless otherwise described, are of two storeys or two storeys and attics,
with rubble walls and stone-slated roofs, and are of the
late 18th century. The majority are designed on a two-room plan giving a symmetrical front elevation with
central entrance and chimneys in the end gables.
a(14) Clarence Cottage (270 yds. S.S.E.) was enlarged by
the addition of a three-storey building in the 19th century.
a(15) House, No. 4, of three storeys, has a bay window added
in the 19th century.
a(16) House, No. 6, of two storeys with a semi-basement, has
walls of ashlar and is dated 1793. The front elevation has a platband at first-floor level and central doorway with pedimental
timber door-case between hung-sash windows with segmental-arched heads; an open passageway is entered under a round
arch with keystone inscribed W.C. 1793 1940.
a(17) House, No. 8, has a gable end to the street with central
segmental-headed hung-sash windows.
a(18) House, No. 10, has a string-course and segmental-headed hung-sash windows.
a(19) Cottages, four, comprise an L-shaped building of the
late 17th century and an extension to the E. of the 18th century.
a(20) House, No. 33, is probably of the late 18th century but
a(21) Mill House has a stone inscribed 'BEn BARLOW Mill
Wright of Southampton fecit 1754'.
a(22) Ivydene, house (280 yds. W.), has a central doorway
with round head and keystone.
a(23) Cottage, No. 8 (260 yds. S.W.), has walls rendered with
stucco and is the best preserved of a row of 18th-century
cottages, partly derelict; a bay window was added in the 19th
a(24) Oxford Terrace (02497864) is not old but has reset in
the W. gable an 18th-century carved stone cartouche with
a(25) The Anchor Inn and House adjoining to W., of two
and three storeys, have walls covered with rough-cast and a bow
window in the centre of the first floor.
a(26) Workshop, formerly cottage, No. 44, has been much
a(27) House, No. 48, has a basement and has been much
a(28) House, No. 56, is modern but has, reset in the E. wall,
a carved stone inscribed with a date 167?.
a(29) House, No. 66, has a two-storey bow window of which
the upper part is original and the lower part modern.
a(30) Virginia Cottage, adjoining the last, is of the early 18th
century and was refronted with ashlar in the late 18th or early
19th century; a shop window was put in later.
a(31) Houses, three, Nos. 88, 90 and 92, form an irregular
building standing on sloping ground with a basement above
ground at the rear and with the upper floor partly in the roof.
The entrance to No. 92 has a late 18th-century timber door-case
with fluted pilasters and open pediment over a blind fanlight;
some of the hung-sash windows are modern.
a(32) Houses, five, forming a terrace with the end houses
projecting, have walls rendered in stucco and slate-covered
roofs; they are of c. 1830–40. The ground floor has later shop
fronts; the first-floor windows have wrought-iron balconies.
a(33) Purbeck Hotel is of three storeys with attics and is of
the early 19th century. The front is symmetrical, with later
two-storey bay windows flanking the segmental-headed
a(34) House, 5 yds. S. of last, is of c. 1800.
a(35) Olive Cottage, 20 yds. S. of (33), is of the early 19th
a(36) Ship Hotel now includes a three-storey house immediately W. Both the original hotel and the adjoining house
have walls rendered in stucco and roofs covered with modern
slates and are of the early 19th century. The entrance porch has
timber columns supporting a plain hood and is flanked by bay
windows. The house has hung-sash windows regularly disposed and a later bay window added.
a(37) The White Swan has walls rendered with stucco and
is of the late 17th or early 18th century, heightened and extended
to the N. in the late 18th century and much altered later.
a(38) The Red Lion and House, No. 65, have been much
altered, No. 65 being converted to a shop.
a(39) Cottages, three, Nos. 75, 77 and 79, now one shop, are
of one and two storeys with attics. Nos. 77 and 79 were built
in the 17th century, No. 75 was added early in the 18th century
and extended towards the N. later in the same century. Inside
the earlier cottages are stop-chamfered ceiling beams.
a(40) Purbeck House was built in the late 19th century by
George Burt, nephew of the contractor John Mowlem, and
in the outbuildings and the garden are a number of carvings and architectural fragments probably all from London
(see also Monuments 4, 6).
Archway, of rusticated and vermiculated ashlar; round arch,
4 ft. span, with keystones carved with male heads; at the top a
cornice with modillions and plain blocking course; originally
erected at Grosvenor Place, Hyde Park Corner, 1844. Windows,
fragments, cusped two-centred lights in two-centred heads,
15th-century. Columns, six, of cast iron, plain with simple
moulded caps and bases, 8½ ft. high above cast-iron plinths;
from Billingsgate Market by J. B. Bunning, of c. 1850. Statue
(Plate 62) of male figure wearing long robe, provenance unknown, probably late 17th-century. Statues, two (Plate 62),
part of a series of kings and queens which decorated the Royal
Exchange before it was burnt down in 1836, (1) with head,
arms and lower parts of legs missing, figure in armour with
belt and large laminated tassets, with scarf across upper part of
body; (2) with head and parts of arms and legs missing, figure
in armour including skirt of mail and with cloak. A number of
the Royal Exchange statues were auctioned in 1838 (Guildhall
Library, Pam. 1620), those not appearing in the catalogue
presumably being much damaged. Among these last, the Henry
V as seen in engravings of the Exchange before the fire resembles (2). The Edward I, which is in the catalogue, bears
some resemblance to (1). For neither of these is the sculptor
known; probably late 17th-century. Busts of Shakespeare and
(?) Milton, perhaps 18th-century. Head of young man, late 18th
or early 19th-century. Mosaic of the Prince of Wales's feathers
and motto against a red background within blue, green and
white hexagonal border, 3¼ ft. across; said to have come from
a lobby in the Palace of Westminster (to the Prince's Chamber?).
Floor Tiles, in terrace, large number of miscellaneous broken
fragments; some said to have come from the Palace of Westminster, a few possibly mediaeval.
a(41) Houses, a range of four, Nos. 99, 101, 103, are of the
early 19th century and partly converted to shops.
a(42) House, No. 139, has a central doorway framed by
moulded pilasters and cornice.
a(43) The Black Swan and House, Nos. 159 and 161, were
built in the 17th century but have been much altered and
refitted with 19th-century hung-sash windows; the inn sign is
carried on a bracket of fine scrolled wrought ironwork; inside
are exposed stop-chamfered ceiling beams.
a(44) Houses, Nos. 201 and 203, at junction with Cowlease
Road, are of three storeys. No. 201 has a modern porch.
a(45) House, No. 205, N.W. of last, has walls rendered in
stucco and is of the early 19th century, converted to a shop.
a(46) House, No. 219 (280 yds. W.S.W.), has been completely
a(47) House, No. 229 (290 yds. W.S.W.), has a central doorway and flanking hung-sash windows.
a(48) Hatton Cottage, 220 yds. W.N.W. of (46), was built
as two dwellings, the eastern one slightly the earlier; they have
been much altered internally.
a(49) Cottages, Nos. 4 and 5, form an L-shaped building of
the 17th century.
a(50) Cottages, a pair (200 yds. N.) on W. side of road, are
a(51) Rookery Court has semi-basements, walls rendered
with stucco and slate-covered roof, and is of the second quarter
of the 19th century. The main W. elevation is symmetrical; the
central doorway has a reeded pilastered door-case with open
pediment over a semicircular fanlight and panelled reveals and
is approached by steps with original wrought-iron railings; the
windows are widely spaced and those N. of the doorway are
a(52) Belvedere House and Belvedere Lodge, 140 yds. S. of
(50), of three storeys with walls rendered in stucco and slate-covered roofs, were built as three houses, c. 1830. The elevations
are divided by plain pilasters and plat-bands and the first-floor
windows are set in round-headed recesses. Belvedere House has
a wrought-iron balcony above the entrance doorway.
a(53) Durlston Cottage, 300 yds. S. of (50), has walls
rendered with stucco, roof covered with slates, and is of the
mid 19th century. The front elevation is symmetrical; the
central doorway with semicircular fanlight is flanked by two-storey bay windows.
a(54) Herston House, N. of High Street (018790), has walls
covered with stucco and is of the early 18th century, but much
altered. It is T-shaped on plan; none of the front windows is
original; a chimney-stack projects from the front elevation.
a(55) House, No. 1 Bell Street, at junction with High Street
(017789), has a symmetrical front with doorway between casement windows, all with keyed segmental-arched heads.
a(56) Globe Inn, immediately S. of (55), was originally two
a(57) House, No. 2 Bell Street, opposite (55), has central
doorway and hung-sash windows and has been converted to a
a(58) House, No. 16 Bell Street, 25 yds. S. of (57), is L-shaped
on plan; it has a plat-band at first-floor level and wide segmental arches with keystones probably designed to span shopwindows; a two-storey bay window was added in the 19th
a(59) Cottages, a pair, Nos. 32, 34 Bell Street, 80 yds. S. of
(57). No. 34 has a modern fireplace set in an original open fireplace with an oven in one of the jambs.
a(60) Houses, a pair, Nos. 58, 60 Bell Street, 270 yds. S. of
(55), are symmetrically designed with doorway and three hungsash windows to the front of each house.
a(61) Rose Cottage and Forgetmenot Cottage, in lane
100 yds. N.W. of (60), have been much altered.
a(62) House, No. 343 High Street, immediately W. of (57),
is set back from the road and has modern shop premises in
front of it.
a(63–66) Cottages, fifteen, Nos. 369–77, 383, 391–9, 401–7
High Street (odd numbers), on S. side W. of Jubilee Road, are
of the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
a(67) Cottages, three, Nos. 1–3 Belle Vue Lane, just S. of
High Street (014789).
a(68–70) Royal Oak p.h. and Cottages, five, Nos. 411–15,
419–21 High Street (odd numbers), on S. side W. of Belle Vue
Lane, are of the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Swanage. Strip fields
a(71) Belle Vue Farm, house (015783), of three storeys, has a
date-stone now covered but said to be inscribed 1833. The front
elevation is very plain with central doorway and hung-sash
windows diminishing in height towards the top. Barn, Stable
and Cottage, 50 yds. N., are contemporary with the house.
a(72) California Farm, house, formerly Herston Farm
(019777), has casement windows and a 19th-century porch.
b(73) Cottage, No. 62 (02128065).
b(74) Cottages, two, Nos. 60–1 (02128068), were built as
one dwelling in the late 17th or early 18th century; there is a
small addition at the N. end.
b(75) Ulwell Cottage (02208080), has a later extension with
two-storey bay window. The original symmetrical front has a
central doorway with semicircular blind fanlight and hung-sash
b(76) Cottage, No. 59 (02228079), has a symmetrical elevation with central entrance; the two ground-floor rooms have
exposed ceiling beams and original open fireplaces, one now
blocked with a modern grate.
b(77) Cottage, No. 63 (02448069), now two tenements, is of
one storey with attics and of the late 17th century with an
18th-century brick wing added; one original window remains,
of three stone-mullioned lights with a label.
b(78) Whitecliff Farmhouse (02968074) is an irregular
L-shaped building with a main range running E.-W. and a
back wing to the S. at the E. end; set at an angle at the W.
end of the main range is an irregular projection, providing a
living room on the ground floor. This W. projection is the
oldest part of the house and is of the early 17th century; it was
presumably built as an addition to an earlier house which was
replaced by the present main range later in the same century,
perhaps in 1683, this date being carved on a stone reset in a
barn. The back wing was built in two stages in the 18th century
and the lack of any clear division between the 17th and 18th-century work suggests that the northern part of the back wing
as well as the main range is a rebuilding of an earlier structure.
The main range and the W. projection have modern stone-mullioned windows replacing similar 17th-century windows
shown in a photograph in Reminiscences of English Country Life
by J. D. White, privately printed in U.S.A. c. 1928. The
interior has been modernised and has modern ceiling beams
and fireplaces in 17th-century style.
Mediaeval and Later Earthworks
a,b(79) Strip Fields (see opp.), flat divided by banks and
a few strip lynchets, cover about 60 acres associated
with Swanage and Herston S. of the town and a small
area by Whitecliff Farm N. of the town. Between the
two main groups of remains, damaged by quarrying
and later ploughing, are others less well-defined and
also two minor groups. Mere-stones remain in group (a)
in the former South Field and Common Ware (Tithe
Map (1840)). (R.A.F. V.A.P. CPE/UK 1821: 2396,
(a) S. of Swanage (028771 to 028777) remains cover some
20 acres on a N.-facing slope. Complete strips are up to 220 yds.
long and about 24 yds. wide between the crests of stony
banks 12 ft. across and up to 1½ ft. high. All run out on to
other strips at right angles to them. They correspond to
divisions of the South Field in 1840. To the S. are traces of
similar strips over about 10 acres of the Common Ware,
outside the open fields of 1840. Along the S.-facing slope to the
S. are two groups of strip lynchets with treads 3 yds. and 7 yds.
wide and risers up to 3 ft. high. Strips to the W. of these on
the coastal shelf are up to 280 yds. long and 7 yds. to 10 yds.
wide divided by slight scarps.
Two mere-stones remain in the former South Field, one
at the N. end of a bank between two strips and the other
between two furlongs at the edge of a track. Both are of
dressed limestone, 12 ins. high, on end and uninscribed. In the
Common Ware are five stones at intervals of 65 yds. in a
slightly curved W. to E. line; two appear to be on the line of
banks between strips. The stones are 1 ft. high, 1 ft. long and
6 ins. thick, with the long axes aligned on the strips. On
each stone the flat top is inscribed 'B' and the flat S. face is
scored with a regular design of diagonal strokes (Plate 64).
(b) 1500 yds. S. of Herston Church (019769 to 019774) are
some 24 acres of similar fields apparently arranged in four
furlongs. Those along the contour have low risers.
(c) Immediately S. of Herston (around 017786) some 2
acres of truncated strips, now only 100 yds. long, run across
a gentle E.-facing slope; each strip curves N.W. at its N. tip.
(d) N.W. of Whitecliff Farm (around 029808) are three
damaged contour strip lynchets, one with a riser up to 12 ft.
high. Air photographs suggest that mediaeval cultivation
once extended to the foot of Ballard Down. The farm
(Monument 78) is the site of a settlement mentioned in
Domesday Book (Hutchins I, 657; Fägersten, 128).
a(80) Signal Station, remains of (025771; Fig. opposite), lie
on the crest of the ridge above the strip fields of (79a). An
irregular walled enclosure, about 180 ft. by 75 ft., contains
stone foundations of five small buildings, a sixth building
butting on to the outside of the wall at the N.W. corner.
The central site, a shallow rectangular depression about 21 ft.
by 18 ft. with indications of an entrance at the N.W. corner,
is probably that of the building used for signalling. The site is
marked 'Signal' on O.S. 1 in. map, 1811. Visibility from it is
limited inland, but good out to sea.
Other Earthworks and Allied Monuments
(81–90) Round Barrows, p. 453
(91–98) Roman Burials and other Remains, p. 611
Ancient Field Group (29), p. 632