BERWICK BASSETT
Berwick Bassett village lies 12 km. SSW.
of Swindon. (fn. 1) The long and narrow parish, 563
ha. (1,391 a.), lies east-west and a head stream
of the river Kennet flows north-south across
the middle of it; with Winterbourne Bassett
and Winterbourne Monkton it is one of three
similarly-shaped parishes in the upper Kennet
valley. Its name suggests that Berwick Bassett
originated as a settlement before 1066 (fn. 2) and, not
mentioned in Domesday Book, in 1086 it was
probably part of the king's estate called Calne. (fn. 3)
Berwick Bassett had no church probably until
the early 13th century. Before then its inhabitants attended Winterbourne Bassett church and
paid tithes to Calne church. Berwick Bassett
church was a daughter of Calne's (fn. 4) but the inhabitants had rights to baptism, marriage, and
burial at Berwick Bassett by the early 15th century, (fn. 5) and Berwick Bassett was later a civil
parish. The suffix Bassett, the surname of lords
of the manor in the 13th century, had been
added by the earlier 14th century. (fn. 6)
On the east the north-south part of the parish
boundary is marked by an ancient road, on the
north-west the boundary was marked by another road, (fn. 7) and on the south the western part
follows a stream and a ridge west of the stream,
but for most of its length the boundary follows
no natural or prominent man-made feature. On
the north the western part of the boundary with
Winterbourne Bassett was described as uncertain c. 1760 and may have been defined anew at
an exchange of lands in 1782. (fn. 8) South-east of
Berwick Bassett village there is a zig-zag where
the boundary with Winterbourne Monkton followed that of furlongs in open-field land; (fn. 9)
boundary stones were standing on part of the
zig-zag in the 19th century. (fn. 10)
Chalk outcrops over the whole parish; there
are deposits of gravel beside the head stream
south of the village and of clay-with-flints in
the extreme east. (fn. 11) Both east and west of the
head stream the land rises to the parish boundary, reaching 271 m. in the east, where the
scarp of Hackpen Hill crosses the parish, and
187 m. in the west; in the centre the land is at
160 m. There were open fields in the east and
west parts of the parish, downland pastures on
Hackpen Hill and in the extreme west, and
little woodland. (fn. 12)
Berwick Bassett had 55 poll-tax payers in
1377. The population of the parish was 158 in
1801, 133 in 1811. From 1811 to 1851 it rose,
reaching a peak of 203, and in the later 19th
century and the 20th it declined, with some
fluctuations: it was 134 in 1881, 165 in 1891, 74
in 1911, (fn. 13) and 69 in 1961. From its low point of
40 in 1971 it had risen to 51 by 1991. (fn. 14)
The road along the parish boundary on the
east is the ancient Ridge Way. (fn. 15) That along it
on the north-west, linking Broad Hinton and
Yatesbury, was called Corten Lane in 1728,
1773, and 1820, Whibston Lane c. 1760, and
Yatesbury Lane in 1828 and later; it has never
been tarmacadamed and was little used in the
late 20th century. By the earlier 18th century
the head stream of the Kennet had been
bridged at Berwick Bassett village and, via the
bridge, a north-south road along the east bank
of the stream led south from Berwick Bassett to
Avebury. A north-south road along the west
bank of the stream may earlier have led north
from the village to Richardson in Winterbourne
Bassett, have linked other villages in the upper
Kennet valley, and have been passable by
coach; it was not marked on maps of 1728,
1773, or later. Another north-south road
crossed Berwick Bassett parish on higher land
further east and was linked by the bridge and
Franklyn's Lane, so called in 1728, to Berwick
Bassett village. (fn. 16) In 1769 Franklyn's Lane,
probably then called Butt's Lane, the north
part of the higher north-south road, and the
road south of the village and on the east bank of
the stream were turnpiked as part of a
Swindon-Devizes road, which thus had two
sharp bends in the parish. Disturnpiked in
1870, (fn. 17) that road remained an important north-
south route in 1994. The southern part of the
higher road had become a bridleway by 1992. (fn. 18)
A road which in the 18th century led west
across the parish from Berwick Bassett village
was a farm track in 1994, and there were east-
west tracks between the higher north-south
road and Hackpen Hill in the earlier 18th century (fn. 19) and the late 20th.
Few traces of prehistoric activity have been
found in the parish. There are two barrows in
its north-east corner, and a palaeolithic axe was
found nearby. (fn. 20)
The whole of Berwick Bassett village stands
west of the head stream. The farmsteads were
built in a loose group, possibly as a planned
settlement when the open fields were laid out
east and west of them, and were linked by a
roughly north-south lane. The northernmost
farmstead is that which probably stood on the
demesne of Berwick Bassett manor and, between c. 1199 and 1221, the church was built
immediately north of it. Near the middle of the
village the lane widened and by 1728 had been
linked to Franklyn's Lane by the bridge. The
wide part of the lane west of the bridge formed
a small triangular green on which there was
little grass in 1994. East of the stream there was
a building north of the bridge in 1728 (fn. 21) and one
south of it c. 1760; (fn. 22) both had been demolished
by 1839. (fn. 23)
In 1728 there were only four farmsteads in
the village; the houses there included two small
manor houses, in 1994 called the Old Farmhouse and the Manor, and several small houses
or cottages. The Old Farmhouse was the house
probably on the demesne of Berwick Bassett
manor and stood near the church; the Manor
(formerly Manor House) stood south-east of it.
Extensive farm buildings near the Old Farmhouse were largely renewed in the 20th century.
There was a large farmstead in the middle of
the village in the 18th century (fn. 24) and the 20th,
when it was called Berwick House Farm. The
farmhouse may be of 17th-century origin and
was much extended in brick in the 19th century; in 1994 the farm buildings were mainly
20th-century.
The other buildings standing in 1728 were
replaced in the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries,
and in that period few buildings were erected
on new sites. (fn. 25) In the north part of the village a
thatched cottage was built in the 18th century,
a school in the mid 19th century, (fn. 26) a terrace of
three houses c. 1900, and, east of the church, a
pair of houses in the 1950s. (fn. 27) In the centre part
and facing the green Home Farm is of brick and
rubble and appears to be mainly 19th-century.
At the south end of the village a farmstead and
several houses or cottages were standing in
1728 beside the track leading westwards. (fn. 28) By
1839 one of the buildings had been replaced by
a row of seven or eight cottages, and a large
farm building had been replaced by a pair of
cottages. (fn. 29) All those cottages and other buildings in the south part of the village were
demolished at various dates in the 20th century, (fn. 30) and in 1994 only a pair of houses built in
the 1950s (fn. 31) stood south of Berwick House
Farm. There was an inn or alehouse called the
Dragon in the village in 1745. (fn. 32)
A farmstead, later called Hampstead, stood
beside the northern boundary in the west part
of the parish in 1728. (fn. 33) A row of three cottages
on the site in 1839 (fn. 34) was called Hampstead Cottages in 1899 and had been demolished by
1922. (fn. 35) Field Barn, 1.3 km. east of the village,
was built between 1828 and 1839; (fn. 36) farm buildings stood on its site in 1994. South of the
village a vicarage house was being built beside
the main road and the parish boundary in 1864. (fn. 37)
MANOR AND OTHER ESTATES
From
the 9th or 10th century the king held a large
estate called Calne, to which Berwick Bassett
may have been added, and in the 1080s Berwick
Bassett was probably part of that estate. (fn. 38) In the
later 12th century it was part of the honor of
Kington (Herefs.) and, like Kington, may have
been granted to a member of the Port family.
Adam de Port forfeited it as part of the honor in
1172. (fn. 39) It was held of the honor, then in the
king's hand, in 1211-12 (fn. 40) but not later.
After 1194 (fn. 41) the manor of BERWICK
BASSETT seems to have been granted by the
king to John Cranburn, from whom it escheated back to the king before 1206. In 1206
the manor was granted at fee farm to Alan Basset, (fn. 42) who already held an estate in Berwick
Bassett granted to him by his father Thomas
(d. 1181 or 1182). (fn. 43) In 1231 the fee-farm rent
was granted to Alan's son Gilbert, (fn. 44) who succeeded his father in 1232 or 1233. From Gilbert
(d. 1241) the manor passed in turn to his brothers Fulk, dean of York and from 1241 bishop of
London (d. 1259), and Sir Philip (d. 1271). (fn. 45) It
descended to Sir Philip's daughter Aline (d. c.
1281), the relict of Sir Hugh le Despenser and
the wife of Roger Bigod, earl of Norfolk, and to
Aline's son Sir Hugh le Despenser (fn. 46) (Lord le
Despenser from 1295, cr. earl of Winchester
1322), who was granted free warren in his demesne at Berwick Bassett in 1300. Despenser's
estates were forfeited in 1321, restored in 1322,
and again forfeited on his execution in 1326. (fn. 47)
In 1328 the Crown's right to Berwick Bassett
manor was challenged by the abbot of Stanley,
who claimed that Sir Philip had granted the
manor to the abbey shortly before his death and
that Bigod and Despenser had disseised the abbey of it shortly after Sir Philip's death. (fn. 48)
Presumably as a result of the claim the manor
was divided between the Crown and the abbey,
and it descended in moieties, each sometimes
called Berwick Bassett manor, (fn. 49) until 1709.

Berwick Bassett 1839
The Crown's interest in the manor was held
by Queen Isabel, (fn. 50) and was presumably resumed on her defeat in 1330. Its estate in
Berwick Bassett was in the keeping of Gilbert
of Berwick (d. 1361) in 1331, (fn. 51) and probably
before 1338 was granted to him in fee. The estate passed to Gilbert's daughter Agnes and her
husband John de la Roches (fn. 52) (probably d. by
1376). (fn. 53) It descended to the Rocheses' son Sir
John (d. 1400), (fn. 54) whose estates were held for
life by his relict William and divided at her
death in 1410 between his daughter Elizabeth,
the wife of (Sir) Walter Beauchamp (d. 1430),
and his grandson (Sir) John Baynton. (fn. 55) The estate at Berwick Bassett was apparently assigned
to Elizabeth and was held at his death in 1457
by her son Sir William Beauchamp (from 1449
Lord St. Amand). (fn. 56) Sir William's relict Elizabeth, Baroness St. Amand, later the wife of Sir
Roger Tocotes, held it until her death in 1491,
when it passed to Sir William's son Sir Richard
Beauchamp (Lord St. Amand from 1491). (fn. 57) At
Richard's death in 1508 it probably reverted,
with Roches manor in Bromham, to Sir John
Baynton's grandson John Baynton (d. 1516),
whose son Sir Edward held an estate in Berwick
Bassett at his death in 1544. Sir Edward's son
Andrew (fn. 58) sold the estate in 1557 to John
Goddard and John's son Thomas (fn. 59) (d. 1581).
Thomas's son John (fn. 60) (d. 1635) settled it in 1615
on the marriage of his son Edward (d. 1625),
and it passed from Edward's relict Anne (fl.
1635) to their son John (fn. 61) (d. 1688), who devised
it to his daughters Mary, Susanna, later the
wife of Caleb Bailey, and Hannah or Anna
Goldney, later the wife of Robert Maundrell,
in common. Mary had conveyed her interest
to her sisters by 1690, (fn. 62) and in 1708 the
Maundrells conveyed theirs to Caleb Bailey. (fn. 63)
Stanley abbey's estate in Berwick Bassett
passed to the Crown on the dissolution of the
abbey in 1536, and in that year it was granted to
Edward Seymour, (fn. 64) Viscount Beauchamp (cr.
earl of Hertford 1537, duke of Somerset
1547). (fn. 65) In 1547 Seymour gave it back to the
Crown in an exchange, (fn. 66) and in 1560 the Crown
granted it to Thomas Powell and Elizabeth, the
wife of Cuthbert Vaughan. (fn. 67) About 1562 Elizabeth, to whom Powell quitclaimed his interest
in 1560, and Cuthbert conveyed the estate to
Thomas Saunders alias Mills, (fn. 68) who gave it to
his son Thomas c. 1568. (fn. 69) It again passed to the
Crown on the younger Thomas's attainder in
1586 and was granted in 1588 to Richard
Mompesson, (fn. 70) who sold it in 1590 to Walter
Dunche (fn. 71) (d. 1594). Dunche's son William (fn. 72)
sold it in 1633 to John Popham (d. 1636) and
John's wife Mary, who survived her husband.
John's heir was his brother Alexander
Popham (fn. 73) (d. 1669) whose son George (d. 1687)
owned the estate in 1675. George's son John (fn. 74)
sold it to Caleb Bailey in 1709. (fn. 75)
Bailey (d. 1749) devised the whole manor of
Berwick Bassett to his cousin Giles Bailey (fl.
1753) and Giles's issue, with reversion to Thomas Nalder, John Nalder, Ambrose Lanfear,
and Elizabeth Mace. (fn. 76) Giles had evidently died
without issue by 1767. (fn. 77) By will proved 1756
Thomas Nalder devised his interest to John (fn. 78)
(will proved 1768), (fn. 79) who bought Elizabeth
Mace's interest in 1762 and was succeeded by
his son John. (fn. 80) The younger John Nalder and
Thomas Lanfear owned the manor in 1767, (fn. 81)
and by 1814 Nalder had acquired Lanfear's
interest. (fn. 82) Nalder (d. 1821) (fn. 83) was succeeded
by his son John (d. 1832), whose daughters
Mary, Elizabeth, Sarah, and Martha inherited
Berwick Bassett manor as tenants in common.
Mary, wife of Henry Stratton, Elizabeth, wife
of Robert Cooper, and Sarah, wife of Robert
Gibbons, shared Martha's interest after her
death in 1837, (fn. 84) and they or their heirs or trustees sold the manor in 1875 to Sir Henry Meux,
Bt. (d. 1883). The manor passed to Meux's son
Sir Henry Meux, Bt. (d. 1900), whose relict
Valerie sold the land as Manor farm, c. 720 a.,
in 1909 (fn. 85) to F. G. Smyth (d. 1927). In 1939
Smyth's son F. W. L. Smyth sold the farm to
R. H. Glyn, from 1942 Sir Richard Glyn, Bt.,
who sold it in 1951 to Hosier Estates. In 1965 it
was bought from Hosier Estates as a farm of
760 a. by Mr. D. F. T. White, who in 1973 conveyed it to his son Mr. D. G. White, the owner
in 1994. (fn. 86)
Its position near the church and its unusual
plan suggest that the Old Farmhouse was used
by priests serving the church, (fn. 87) but the house is
more likely to have been the principal one on
the Goddards' part of Berwick Bassett manor.
It has a long east-west range of c. 1500 with
walls of stone on the ground floor and of timber
framing above. (fn. 88) No wall of so early a date survives on the ground floor inside, but a
16th-century timber screen divides the western
third from the rest. On the first floor, which
was open to the roof, there were three rooms
each with a central arch-braced truss. Original
fireplaces survive in the east and west gable
walls on the ground floor, and there were
fireplaces above them on the first floor, but no
provision appears to have been made for heating the central rooms. There were north and
south doorways immediately east of the screen;
a south porch was incorporated in 19th-century
additions. East of the porch there is a doorway
which may have led to the original staircase,
and opposite that doorway, on the north side of
the house, stands a small wing with a jettied
upper floor. Another wing, to the south-west,
was built in the 19th century and, presumably
when that wing was built, a doorway and a window were taken from the house to Vastern
Manor in Wootton Bassett. (fn. 89)
The Manor (formerly Manor House), probably the 'fair dwelling house' recorded on
George Popham's portion of Berwick Bassett
manor in 1675, (fn. 90) comprises two stone ranges.
An older north-west and south-east range is of
c. 1600 and has at each end an external stack
and a large ground-floor room; between those
two rooms there was a smaller, unheated, room.
The range returns to the south-east, forming an
entrance hall which is joined to a long early
17th-century east-west range. The eastern end
of the later range may originally have provided
service rooms; it has many blocked windows
and in 1994 was used partly as stables. The
house was apparently lived in by Caleb Bailey
in 1728. (fn. 91)
An estate in Berwick Bassett which was the
origin of BERWICK farm was evidently held
by the Templars and may already have been
held by them when, before 1172, Adam de Port
gave 1 yardland there to them. (fn. 92) The estate presumably passed with Temple Rockley manor in
Preshute to the Hospitallers and after the Dissolution to members of the Baynton family, and
it descended with the manor from 1595 to
1754. (fn. 93) In 1595 Henry Baynton sold it to Thomas Hutchins, (fn. 94) at whose death in 1607 it
passed to Thomas Baskerville, (fn. 95) and from 1614
it descended with Winterbourne Bassett manor.
From Baskerville (d. 1621) it passed in turn to
his son Francis (d. before 1685), Francis's son
Thomas (fl. 1707), Thomas's son Richard (d.
1739), and Richard's grandson Thomas
Baskerville. (fn. 96) In 1754 it was sold by Thomas to
trustees of Charles Lennox, duke of Richmond (fn. 97) (d. 1750), and in 1760 was held by
Richmond's daughter Georgiana and her husband Henry Fox (cr. Baron Holland 1763, d.
1774). (fn. 98) Berwick farm descended, still with
Winterbourne Bassett manor, in the direct line
to Stephen, Lord Holland (d. 1774), Henry,
Lord Holland (d. 1840), and Henry, Lord Holland (d. 1859), who devised the farm, 529 a. in
1843, to his relict Mary (d. 1889). Mary devised
it to her husband's nephew Leopold Powys (fn. 99) (d.
1893), from 1890 Leopold Fox-Powys. It
passed to Leopold's brother Thomas Powys,
Lord Lilford (d. 1896), and to Thomas's son
John, Lord Lilford, (fn. 1) who in 1902 sold it to
James Horton (d. 1926). It presumably passed,
as Winterbourne Bassett manor did, to James's
son John and by sale in 1938 to the Gaunts Estate Company, which held it on behalf of Sir
Richard Glyn, Bt. In 1951 Sir Richard sold
Berwick (later Berwick House) farm, 419 a.,
and a further 155 a., part of Whyr farm based
in Winterbourne Bassett, to Hosier Estates,
which sold those lands in 1964. With the rest of
Whyr farm the 155 a. was bought in 1964 by
Mrs. D. King and in 1970 by Mr. M. R.
Young, the owner in 1994. Berwick House farm
was bought in 1964 by Cyril Humphreys, in
1968 by R. Stewart Hunt, and in 1982 by Mr.
Jonathan Powell, who owned 420 a. in the parish in 1995. (fn. 2)
Tithes from Berwick Bassett were presumably among the possessions of Calne church
when it was given to Salisbury cathedral in
1091 and when, no later than 1116, its estate
was used to endow a prebend in the cathedral. (fn. 3)
Between c. 1199 and 1221 the tithes were held
by the rector of Winterbourne Bassett for 2s. a
year paid to the prebendary. In 1221 they were
confirmed as part of the PREBENDAL estate
in Berwick Bassett. (fn. 4) Between 1220 and 1227 the
estate passed to the treasurer of the cathedral
and in 1841 to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. (fn. 5) In 1843, when the estate included 46 a.,
the tithes were valued at £305 and commuted. (fn. 6)
In 1874 the land was transferred to the united
benefice of Winterbourne Monkton with
Berwick Bassett. (fn. 7)
ECONOMIC HISTORY
In the Middle Ages
Berwick Bassett almost certainly had extensive
areas of open field east and west of the village
with, beyond them, commonable pastures on
Hackpen Hill to the east and on gently sloping
downland to the west. There may have been
800-900 a. of open fields, and Hackpen Hill was
presumably rough pasture for sheep. (fn. 8) The land
was almost certainly worked from farmsteads in
the village, and there is no evidence that the
land of any estate was confined to either half of
the parish.
In 1271 the demesne of Berwick Bassett
manor included 250 a. of arable, 6 a. of
meadow, and pasture for 24 oxen and 6 ewes. (fn. 9)
In 1281 there was said to be grazing for 56 oxen
and 250 sheep. Carrying services on the demesne were then valued at 4s., ploughing works
at 12d. (fn. 10) About 1328 the demesne was evidently
divided into two portions. (fn. 11)
In the earlier 16th century the two areas of
open field were called East field and West field.
The demesne of Lord Hertford's estate then
included a nominal 247 a. in them, and his four
copyholders had a nominal 204 a. Both the demesne and the copyholds included grazing
rights on a pasture called West leaze and on
Hackpen Hill. The copyholders could feed 460
sheep; 10 a. of a cow down, presumably in the
west, provided several pasture for the demesne
cattle from 2 February to 11 November. (fn. 12)
Much of Berwick Bassett's land was inclosed
between the earlier 16th century and 1728, evidently before 1675. (fn. 13) In 1728 the commonable
land was East field, 412 a., which extended
from the head stream to Hackpen Hill, West
field, 80 a. west of the village, a common of 5 a.
including the green and extending north and
south along the stream, and a common of 25 a.
consisting of the track west of the village which
widened in the extreme west. Some of East field
lay in very large pieces: one was of 81 a., two
were of c. 50 a., and three were of 13-17 a. East
of East field Hackpen Hill, 157 a., had been
made several by 1675, and in 1728 there was 15
a. of inclosed meadows between part of East
field and the stream and there was 68 a. of inclosed arable north of Franklyn's Lane. West of
the village there was c. 630 a. of arable and pasture in closes, including c. 100 a. north and
south of the village and, in the extreme west, 55
a. of what were called common grounds. Some
of the closes suggest that part of West field had
lain in large pieces before it was inclosed. (fn. 14)
There may have been a large farm on each of
the three principal estates in Berwick Bassett in
the 17th century. In 1635 the estate owned by
the Goddards was a single farm with land in the
open fields, what was probably a 47-a. close of
arable north of Franklyn's Lane, 95 a. of inclosed pastures, 67 a. of inclosed meadows, and
feeding in common for 160 sheep, 16 cattle, and
3 horses. (fn. 15) In 1675 the demesne farm owned by
the Pophams (formerly Lord Hertford's) lay
entirely east of the village; it included the whole
of Hackpen Hill as several pasture, 12 a. of pas
ture elsewhere, and 200 a. of arable, of which
most lay in three large pieces. (fn. 16) Those two
farms were merged, probably in or soon after
1709. (fn. 17) In 1728 the combined farm, later Manor
farm, had 651 a. including Hackpen Hill, 241 a.
in East field including the three largest pieces,
19 a. in West field, 97 a. of arable in closes, and
131 a. of pasture in closes; it was worked mainly
from the buildings immediately south of the
church. Berwick (later Berwick House) farm
was then of 269 a. including 107 a. in East field,
29 a. in West field, 50 a. of arable in closes, and
82 a. of pasture in closes. There were two other
farms worked from the village, one of 110 a.
and a 45-a. copyhold of the Prebendal estate,
both with buildings beside the track leading
west from the village. Hampstead Farm was
built in the north-west corner of the parish,
perhaps soon after the land was inclosed, and in
1728 a compact, several, and mainly pasture
farm of 123 a. was worked from it. In 1728 the
land of other holdings, c. 130 a., may have been
worked with the five farms. (fn. 18)
In 1728 many of the strips in the open fields
were of less than 1 a. (fn. 19) It was noted c. 1760 that
there was no set time for breaking the fields,
and in 1761 the boundary marks had to be renewed. (fn. 20) Common husbandry was apparently
ended in 1782 when it was agreed that lands
would be exchanged and that the farmers would
feed animals on only their own land, (fn. 21) and in
the earlier 19th century the Prebendal estate's
23 a. of arable remained in 25 scattered parcels
as vestiges of the open fields. (fn. 22) In the later 18th
century Manor farm comprised 643 a., (fn. 23) in 1808
Hampstead farm 121 a., and in 1810 Berwick
farm c. 400 a. (fn. 24)
In 1843 the parish included 787 a. of arable,
c. 75 a. of meadow, and c. 490 a. of pasture.
Manor farm, which lay chiefly east of the village, measured 727 a. including c. 390 a. of
arable, Hackpen Hill, 156 a., and 155 a. of
meadow and pasture. Berwick farm, c. 448 a.,
lay chiefly west of the village and was two thirds
arable and a third grassland. The farmstead of
Hampstead farm had been converted to cottages and its lands, 149 a. including 67 a. of
arable, were probably worked from Winterbourne Bassett as part of Whyr farm. (fn. 25)
Between 1843 and 1994 the size of Manor
farm and of Berwick (Berwick House) farm,
and the area of Berwick Bassett in Whyr farm,
changed little. (fn. 26) By 1906 much of Manor farm
had been converted to pasture, (fn. 27) and in 1951,
when an attempt was being made to cultivate
Hackpen Hill, the farm's 759 a. included c. 400
a. of grassland. (fn. 28) In 1994 wheat was grown on c.
400 a. and there was a dairy herd of 250. (fn. 29)
Berwick farm had 130 a. of arable, mostly in the
east half of the parish, in the 1930s, 260 a. of
arable and 130 a. of pasture in 1951, when it
supported a Friesian dairy herd. (fn. 30) It remained
an arable and dairy farm in the later 20th century. (fn. 31) Whyr was a dairy farm in the 1920s and,
apart from Gorse copse, its 155 a. in Berwick
Bassett was grassland in the 1930s and 1951.
The farm was wholly arable in the later 20th
century. (fn. 32)
The parish was little wooded in the 18th century. (fn. 33) In 1843 it had 7 a. of woodland, of which
5 a. stood as Gorse copse to the west and 2 a. as
a plantation on Hackpen Hill, (fn. 34) and in the late
20th century it had c. 20 a., including new plantations south of Gorse copse and on Hackpen
Hill. (fn. 35)
There was a weaver in the parish in 1689. (fn. 36)
There was a brick kiln on Hackpen Hill in
1828, (fn. 37) and in the 1880s there was also a brickyard. Both had been closed by 1899. (fn. 38)
LOCAL GOVERNMENT
The right to hold
a court and a view of frankpledge passed with
Stanley abbey's portion of Berwick Bassett
manor. (fn. 39) Records of a manor court and view
survive for 1737, 1750, 1761, 1783, 1814, and
1835. A tithingman was elected and a jury
presented. Most presentments concerned property needing repair, and in 1761 the lack of
covers for three wells was reported. In 1835
the tithingman was required to provide a set
of hand-bolts. No tenurial business was recorded. (fn. 40)
In 1775-6 the parish spent £29 on poor relief.
In 1802-3, when the poor rate was a little above
the average for the hundred, £111 was spent, 9
people received occasional relief, and 11 adults
and 23 children received permanent relief. (fn. 41)
Expenditure reached a peak of £207 in 1814,
although the numbers relieved were similar to
those in proximate years when costs were
lower. Between 1815 and 1835 spending on the
poor fluctuated; it was highest in 1817 at £172
and lowest in 1827 at £91. (fn. 42) Berwick Bassett
became part of Marlborough poor-law union in
1835, (fn. 43) of Kennet district in 1974. (fn. 44)
CHURCH
Berwick Bassett church was built
between c. 1199 and 1221. It was disputed between the rector of Winterbourne Bassett,
whose church the inhabitants of Berwick
Bassett attended until theirs was built, and the
prebendary of Calne, who owned the tithes
arising in Berwick Bassett and may have built
Berwick Bassett church. The dispute was resolved in the prebendary's favour, (fn. 45) and
provision for Berwick Bassett church to be
served was made until 1841 by the treasurer of
Salisbury cathedral, to whose dignity the prebend of Calne was annexed from between 1220
and 1227, and from 1841 to 1854 by the bishop
of Salisbury. (fn. 46) In the early 15th century, and
perhaps from when it was built, inhabitants of
Berwick Bassett had rights to receive all sacraments in their church and to be buried in its
graveyard. (fn. 47) In 1658 Berwick Bassett chapelry
was detached from Calne and united to Winterbourne Monkton. (fn. 48) That union survived until c.
1662, (fn. 49) but, presumably about then, (fn. 50) Berwick
Bassett again became a daughter church of
Calne. It was separated from Calne in 1853-4
when the bishop of Salisbury licensed a clerk to
a perpetual curacy of Berwick Bassett, (fn. 51) a living
to which the Ecclesiastical Commissioners
added a small endowment. (fn. 52) From 1865 to 1929
the curacy was united to Winterbourne Monkton vicarage, and from 1929 to 1951 instead to
Winterbourne Bassett rectory; (fn. 53) it was added to
the benefice of Avebury with Winterbourne
Monkton in 1970, when the three parishes were
united. (fn. 54) In 1975 that benefice and others were
merged as Upper Kennet benefice. (fn. 55) Berwick
Bassett church was declared redundant in
1972, (fn. 56) and passed in 1973 into the care of the
Redundant Churches Fund (later the Churches
Conservation Trust). (fn. 57)
The bishop of Salisbury was patron of the
perpetual curacy (fn. 58) and of the united benefice
created in 1865. (fn. 59) Magdelen College, Oxford,
was patron of the benefice of Winterbourne
Bassett with Berwick Bassett, (fn. 60) and from 1951
the bishop has been patron of Berwick Bassett
and of the united benefices of which it has been
part. (fn. 61)
In 1650 the curate of Berwick Bassett received a stipend of £30 from the lessee of the
tithes of the parish, in the mid 18th century one
of £40. (fn. 62) From 1853 the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, the owners of the tithe rent charge,
gave an additional £12 a year to the curate; (fn. 63) in
1874 they gave part of their estate in Berwick
Bassett, 46 a. and the tithe rent charge from
that land, to the incumbent of the united
benefice, and in 1880 they gave another part of
their estate in Berwick Bassett, tithe rent
charges totalling £232, to the incumbent. (fn. 64) Between 1920 and 1923 c. 20 a. was sold, and in
1995 the Salisbury diocesan board of finance
owned 8 a. (fn. 65) Other land and the tithe rent
charges given in 1874 and 1880 were transferred to other livings in 1929. (fn. 66) There was a
house for the chaplain of Berwick Bassett in
1405, (fn. 67) and in the 16th century priests may have
lived in the Old Farmhouse. (fn. 68) In 1650 there was
evidently no house for the curate. (fn. 69) A new
house was completed in or soon after 1864 for
the incumbent of the benefice of Winterbourne
Monkton with Berwick Bassett; it was built
halfway between the two villages and was sold
in 1940. (fn. 70)
In 1331 Gilbert of Berwick gave the income
from 1 yardland to provide daily masses in
Berwick Bassett church. (fn. 71) An obligation on the
treasurer of Salisbury cathedral to provide two
processional candles and a candle for the high
altar was not met in 1405 or 1409, and a lamp,
which should have been provided by the rector
of Winterbourne Bassett in return for 2 a. in
Berwick Bassett, was also missing in 1409. (fn. 72)
Before the Reformation the churchwardens of
Berwick Bassett held 1 a. for a lamp. (fn. 73)
The church may not have been well served
by the chaplains and curates appointed by the
treasurer or the vicar of Calne. In 1633 it contained no book other than a Bible and, perhaps,
the Thirty-Nine Articles; having no prayer
book, the churchwardens claimed that they did
not know what other books were required. (fn. 74)
Woolston Miller, who served the church in
1650, and Francis Hubert, who served it c.
1662, were expelled, presumably for failing to
conform. (fn. 75) In 1783 a curate who lived at
Wroughton served Berwick Bassett, Broad
Hinton, and Wroughton churches, (fn. 76) but in 1829
Berwick Bassett may have had its own curate. (fn. 77)
In 1864 the perpetual curate, who lived in the
schoolhouse while the new glebe house was
being built, held two services each Sunday and
additional services on Ash Wednesday, on
Wednesdays and Fridays in Lent, and on Good
Friday, Ascension day, and Christmas day;
communion was celebrated on Christmas day,
Easter day, Whit Sunday, and the first Sunday
of each month. The average congregation at the
Sunday services was said to exceed the parish's
population, and there were 20 communicants. (fn. 78)
From 1929 the incumbent did not live in the
parish; (fn. 79) between 1952 and 1970 Berwick
Bassett was held in plurality with Avebury with
Winterbourne Monkton, (fn. 80) and from 1975 was
served by a team ministry. (fn. 81)

St. Nicholas's Church from the south-east in 1807
The church of ST. NICHOLAS, so called
in 1331, (fn. 82) is built of rubble and red brick with
freestone dressings and has a chancel and a
nave with a south porch surmounted by a
tower. The present chancel was standing in the
13th century, although facing with brick in the
18th century and partial rebuilding in the 19th
have obscured most 13th-century features. The
nave was rebuilt in the 14th century and given
new windows in the 15th. In the 18th century
the porch and the tower were built, or rebuilt,
mainly in wood. In 1857, under the direction of
T. H. Wyatt, parts of the walling of both the
chancel and the nave were rebuilt, a new chancel arch was built, and the tower was replaced
in stone. A vestry, built in 1857 on the north
side of the chancel, was standing in 1912 but
not in 1994. A 13th-century font and a 15thcentury rood screen, which formerly had a
loft, (fn. 83) remain in the church.
Plate weighing 1 oz. was confiscated in 1553,
and a chalice of 7 oz. was left in the church. A
chalice and a paten given in 1775 were still held
for the church in 1994. (fn. 84)
There were three bells in the church in 1553.
A bell of 1605, one of 1663 cast by Roger
Purdue, and one of 1694 by Robert Cor hung
there in 1994. (fn. 85)
Registers of baptisms and marriages survive
from 1674, of burials from 1676. (fn. 86)
NONCONFORMITY
There were presumably nonconformists at Berwick Bassett in the
1660s, when Francis Hubert was ejected from
the living (fn. 87) and two ministers ejected from
other Wiltshire livings preached there. (fn. 88) Caleb
Bailey (d. 1749), the lord of Berwick Bassett
manor, bequeathed money to train dissenting
ministers and to maintain local meeting
houses, (fn. 89) but no dissenters' meeting house is
recorded in the parish before 1819, when a
room was licensed for Independents. In 1834 a
house was licensed for meetings of Primitive
Methodists, and another meeting house was
licensed in 1848. (fn. 90) In 1864 there was no nonconformist place of worship although there
were 10 dissenters. (fn. 91)
EDUCATION
Henry Webb (d. 1766) bequeathed the income from £350 to pay for poor
children of Berwick Bassett to be taught. (fn. 92) In
1818 the charity school had 10 pupils; (fn. 93) in 1833,
when the endowment yielded £13, it had 28. (fn. 94)
In 1847 a National school, incorporating a
teacher's house, was built south of the church;
it received the income from Webb's charity,
£11 4s. in 1906. (fn. 95) The school had 15 pupils in
1871 (fn. 96) and was closed in 1897 because there
were too few pupils for it to be kept open. (fn. 97) It
was reopened and in 1907 average attendance
was 22. Average attendance remained c. 20 until
the school's final closure in 1922. (fn. 98)
CHARITY FOR THE POOR
Under the will
of Sarah Hawkins proved 1856 £179 was invested for the poor of the parish. In the later
19th century and the earlier 20th the charity's
income was used to buy coal: £6 13s. 6d. was
spent in 1907. In 1951 a similar sum was distributed in cash, (fn. 99) and in the earlier 1990s no
distribution was made. (fn. 1)