SOUTHWICK
The parish of Southwick, from 1899 to 1974 an
urban district, (fn. 78) lies on the coast in the extreme
south-east corner of Bramber rape and of West
Sussex. It is 2 miles east of Shoreham and 4 miles
west of Brighton, its coastal strip containing the
busiest part, industrially and commercially, of
Shoreham harbour and the flat land of the plain to
the north providing the site for a leafy suburb
centred on a large village green, long regarded as
attractive. (fn. 79) Beyond, the land rises, with housing
estates built since the 1930s on the lower slopes of
the chalk downland, which reaches nearly 400 ft.
within the parish. (fn. 80) The land on the plain is
alluvium and brickearth, which has been exploited
commercially. (fn. 81)
The parish formed an elongated triangle, and
from the apex on the downs the boundary with
Lewes rape and East Sussex ran south-east in a
straight line. The western boundary followed field
boundaries at the northern end and the straight line of
Kingston Lane for two-thirds of its length. (fn. 82) That
boundary was not established until 1848. Previously
an area of 580 a. stretching from Stoney Lane in
Kingston on the west to Southwick Green had
contained intermixed lands of each parish, of which
236 a. paid tithes to Kingston and c. 340 a. to
Southwick in the early 17th century. (fn. 83) Because the
tithes of the two parishes were held and leased
together in the late 17th century there was uncertainty about the proper division, (fn. 84) and in the
early 19th century the land was regarded as undivided, tithing one-quarter to Kingston and
three-quarters to Southwick. An award of 1848
allotted the 437 a. lying east of Kingston Lane to
Southwick. (fn. 85) Until the civil parish and urban
district were dissolved in 1974, (fn. 86) the boundaries
were altered only by the transfer to Southwick
c. 1900 of the shingle bank lying south of the
harbour, which had formerly been part of Lancing
parish. The minor changes in area, put at 1,041 a.
in 1873, 1,006 a. in 1896, 1,103 a. in 1909, and
1,127 a. in 1937, followed modifications in the
coastline. (fn. 87)
Until the 16th century the shoreline at Southwick
seems to have formed a lagoon lying behind a shingle
bank. (fn. 88) As the river Adur changed the shape of its
mouth and pushed its course eastward, parallel to
the seashore, it ate into the edge of Southwick (fn. 89)
and allowed a dry shingle bank to form on its
southern side. By the late 17th century the opening
to the sea was east of Southwick's eastern boundary.
The evolution of Shoreham harbour is described
above. (fn. 90) The locks at the entrance to the eastern
arm link the beach to the rest of the parish; a footbridge was built by subscription in 1887, but was
demolished as part of harbour improvements in
the 1920s. (fn. 91)
The main lines of communication through the
parish run east and west, with local roads running
north and south. There was a road between Brighton
and Shoreham close to the coast in the Middle Ages,
but by the later 17th century the route went across
the middle of the parish, close under the downs, by
what was later called Old Shoreham Road. That
was the main London-Brighton road in the 18th
century. The new coast road built in the 1780s (fn. 92)
took a course under the low cliff in places until after
it had been turnpiked in 1822. (fn. 93) Parallel to the
road a railway was built across the parish in 1840;
a station was opened for Southwick in 1840 and a
halt at Fishersgate, on the eastern boundary, in
1905. (fn. 94) In the 18th century and early 19th three
roads ran inland from the coast, Kingston Lane on
the west, which crossed Old Shoreham Road and
led on to the downs, Southwick Street along the
axis of the parish as far as Old Shoreham Road,
and between the two a lane which skirted the west
side of the Green and then veered north-east to
join Southwick Street and continue beyond Old
Shoreham Road as Mileoak Road. (fn. 95) That pattern
of roads was the frame within which the network
of suburban roads was built in the late 19th century
and the 20th.
On the east side of Southwick Street, 400 yd.
south of Old Shoreham Road, a large Roman villa
was in use from the late 1st century to the mid 4th. (fn. 96)
Possibly the villa was the centre of an estate which
survived in the 11th century as Kingston, (fn. 97) but
there is no clear relationship between the site of
the villa and later settlement in Southwick. In the
11th and 12th centuries, when Southwick already
had a church, the western part of the parish appears
to have been more closely linked with Kingston
than with the eastern part of the parish, as shown
by the intermingling of lands already referred to
and the use of the name Kingston for the main
estate in Southwick in 1086 and for Southwick
church, which stands in the western part of the
parish, in 1205 and 1206. (fn. 98) The eastern part appears
to have been drawn into the parish, while continuing to tithe separately, during the 12th century.
It evidently included downlad settlements in the
northern end at Brambleden and Hazelholt in the
13th century, which may have been deserted in the
14th. (fn. 99) Another settlement was evidently at 'Brook',
which was mentioned in the 12th century as an
area paying tithes and gave rise to a surname used
in the early 14th; (fn. 1) it probably refers to the stream
which in the mid 19th century flowed down the
middle of the Green. (fn. 2)
The name Southwick, recorded in 1073, may
describe the place in relation to a more northerly
farm which was also part of the Kingston estate. (fn. 3)
The area referred to as Southwick in grants of
tithes in the 12th century cannot be precisely
identified; by the late 13th century it was applied
to the whole area served by the church, and perhaps
more particularly to the scattered settlement on the
east and west sides of the Green, near the church
between the Green and Kingston Lane, and on
each side of Southwick Street. (fn. 4) That was the disposition of houses in the inland part of the parish
in 1753. By then too there were small groups of
buildings at the Rock House where Southwick
Street reached the river and at Fishersgate, (fn. 5) so
named in 1587 (fn. 6) but called Copperas Gap in 1753.
By 1846 there had not been much further building
since 1753 except on the Brighton road alongside
the harbour in what was to become Albion Street.
The buildings at Fishersgate were still limited to
an inn, a blockade station, and industrial buildings. (fn. 7)
In the next 25 years four streets of small houses at
Fishersgate and five between Albion Street and the
railway were built; by the end of the century the
pattern of small streets in each area had fully
evolved, and in the 1920s the two were linked by
the building of houses in the longer streets called
the Gardens and Gardner Road. (fn. 8) Until the 1950s
Albion Street served as Southwick's main shopping
street, (fn. 9) but thereafter most shops moved to a new
centre near the Green, most of the small houses off
Albion Street and in Fishersgate were rebuilt as
small blocks of flats and maisonettes, and the
Brighton road came to be dominated by buildings
connected with the harbour.
North of the railway line the amount of new
building by 1896 was slight. Some fairly large
houses had been built on the east side of the Green
and along Southdown Road, but while three new
roads had been laid out north of the Green only
five houses had been built along them. Those roads
were partly built up before the First World War,
when new houses were also built on each side of
the Green and along Church Lane, and the process
was largely completed in the twenties. In the
thirties new houses, many of them built by the
urban district council, formed a belt on the north
side of Old Shoreham Road and filled the area
south of that road and east of Southwick Street.
Meanwhile a large tract of land east of Southwick
Street and immediately north of the railway had
been taken by 1909 as a track for trotting races. (fn. 10)
In 1930 it was acquired by the urban district council
as a recreation ground of 22 a., (fn. 11) and at its eastern
end a sports centre was opened in 1974. (fn. 12)
After the Second World War most of the new
houses built, apart from those in the redevelopment
of Fishersgate and the Albion Street area, were in
thirty roads and closes of small, mostly detached
houses north of Old Shoreham Road. (fn. 13) There was
also some rebuilding and infilling in the area near
the Green, and notably the building of a shopping
centre, officially opened in 1962, (fn. 14) on the east side.
That, together with the siting of administrative,
religious, and social buildings on or near Southwick
Street, instead of in the area of Albion Street where
they had been placed in response to the evolution
of settlement in the 19th century, (fn. 15) has moved the
community's centre back to the area round the
Green. In the 18th century the village pump stood
on the Green, (fn. 16) which in more recent times has
been the site of stocks and maypole. A scheme
regulating the 10 a. of the Green was made by the
urban district council in 1902. (fn. 17) The built-up part
of Southwick is divided sharply into three: the busy
area south of the railway along the Brighton road,
with the harbour on the south and some modern
housing on the north; a spread of small modern
houses north of Old Shoreham Road and on both
sides of it in the eastern part; and between the two
with their arterial roads, an area of older houses
and of rather larger houses built since the 1890s,
including also the Green, Southwick Street, and
the church and other public buildings. By 1976 the
built-up area, including public open spaces,
occupied two-thirds of the area of the former
parish.
Between 1296 and 1332 Southwick had from 24
to 27 taxpayers, (fn. 18) and in 1334 its assessment for tax
was one of the highest in Bramber rape. (fn. 19) Twentyeight people were assessed for poll tax in 1378, (fn. 20)
perhaps representing a decline in total population
and the abandonment of the downland settlements.
In 1642 there were 35 adult males to make the
protestation, (fn. 21) and in 1670 the number of households listed was 26, of which exactly half were
discharged from paying hearth tax. (fn. 22) Six years later
64 adults were returned. (fn. 23) From 271, comprising
67 families living in 34 houses, in 1801 the population grew slowly until the twenties and then increased sharply to 1,190 in 1851 and 2,339 in 1871;
in that year the increase was attributed to the large
number of houses built at Southwick and Fishersgate and inhabited by oyster-dredgers and seafarers. In the mid 19th century over 100 people
might be living aboard ship in the parish at any
time. The population had again nearly doubled, to
4,314, by 1911, and it more than doubled between
1921 and 1951, when it was 10,731. After a peak of
11,929 in 1961 there was a slight fall. (fn. 24)
That Southwick was a desirable place in which
to live is shown in 1705 by the high number of ten
county voters then resident there. (fn. 25) In the 18th
century the inhabitants included gentlemen, merchants, and manufacturers, notably brewers, who
carried on their trade partly in the village. (fn. 26) The
seafaring element in the population was probably
confined to the waterside. In 1791 there was an inn
or tavern called the Blue Anchor on the shore at a
place called Bopeep, (fn. 27) which was marked on a
mid-18th-century map as at Fishersgate, (fn. 28) where
the Sussex Arms, recorded in 1845 (fn. 29) and extant in
1976, may have been its successor. There were
said to have been only two public houses in the
early 19th century, both with maritime names, the
Schooner, which remained in Albion Street in 1976,
and the Victory. (fn. 30) The Sea House inn in Albion
Street, recorded in 1852, (fn. 31) may have been what was
later the Albion, taking its name, as did the street,
from the hulk Albion which had been converted
into a house and oyster shop. (fn. 32) By 1867 there were
nine public houses, including the Cricketer's Arms
at the south-east corner of the Green and the
Windmill (rebuilt on a new site in 1934) on Upper
Shoreham Road, and by the 1880s the number had
risen to sixteen. (fn. 33)
Southwick, which has a much smaller number
than its neighbours of inhabitants travelling daily
to London, (fn. 34) possesses a strong sense of community, (fn. 35) and has supported many sports clubs and
social institutions. Traditional games for Good
Friday, long-rope skipping, marbles, and kiss-inthe-ring, were recorded in the 19th century. (fn. 36) The
Green has long been well known for village cricket. (fn. 37)
Before the First World War there were village
cricket, football, and bowling clubs, and Southwick
was already also the home of the Sussex Croquet
Club. (fn. 38) In 1974 there were also hockey and rifle
clubs. A community centre was opened in converted
buildings in Southwick Street in 1946, providing
for various craft activities and having a theatre;
there are two dramatic societies, of which the
Southwick Players existed in the twenties, and an
operatic society. A separate community hall for
Fishersgate had been opened by 1947. (fn. 39)
The tradition that Charles II took refuge at
Southwick during his escape from England, giving
rise to the name of King Charles's Cottage, appears
to have no foundation in fact. The residential
attractions of the place in more recent years have
drawn some well known people to live there,
including the writer S. P. B. Mais (fn. 40) and the broadcaster Lord Reith, (fn. 41) while Clara Butt, the singer,
was born there as the daughter of a merchant
captain, (fn. 42) and the writer John Cowper Powys
lodged there in the 1890s. (fn. 43)
MANORS.
Southwick, which formed part of the
large estate centred on Kingston, was not mentioned
by name in the Domesday survey but has been
credibly identified with the part of Kingston which
before the Conquest Gunnild held of Harold and
in 1086 William son of Rannulf held of William de
Braose. (fn. 44) The overlordship held by William de
Braose's successors was recorded until 1607, (fn. 45) and
the duke of Norfolk had an estate there c. 1800. (fn. 46)
In 1361 five distinct estates in or extending into
Southwick were listed as part of the barony of
Bramber. (fn. 47) Much later a considerable part of
Southwick belonged to the owners of Kingston
Bowsey manor, (fn. 48) and apparently had long done so:
the two parishes shared open-field land. (fn. 49) In the
late 18th century it was said that there was no
principal manor in Southwick, various parcels of
land being held of manors elsewhere. (fn. 50)
The successor to the Domesday tenant William
son of Rannulf appears to have been Simon le Count
who gave Southwick church to the Templars
between 1173 and 1189. In 1205 and 1206 the
estate was evidently held by Simon's grandson
John le Count, (fn. 51) possibly the same John le Count
who had apparently the largest estate in Southwick
in 1242, with 4 knights' fees in Morley (in Shermanbury), Southwick, and Woodmancote. (fn. 52) It had
passed by 1258 to William Hastentoft and his wife
Isabel, (fn. 53) and was later held by Thomas of Hautington. (fn. 54) The Southwick part was described as the
manor of SOUTHWICK in 1309, when John of
Hartridge died holding it in right of his wife
Nichole. Nichole, under her alternative surname
Hautington, was in 1361 recorded retrospectively
as holding Southwick, and their daughter Elizabeth
and her husband John Percy had a house and 100 a.
in Southwick at John's death in 1339. (fn. 55) Elizabeth
had by 1341 married William Burton; in 1354 the
manor was settled on John Farnborough and his
wife Elizabeth, presumably the same Elizabeth,
for life, and on John Percy's son William and his
wife Mary. (fn. 56) It later passed to Robert Poynings,
Lord Poynings, whose father and grandfather
appear to have had an estate in Kingston, and on
his death in 1446 to his granddaughter Eleanor and
her husband Henry Percy, later earl of Northumberland (d. 1461). (fn. 57) Eleanor died holding land in
Southwick in 1484, when her heir was her son
Henry, earl of Northumberland (d. 1489). (fn. 58) It was
presumably sold by Henry, earl of Northumberland
(d. 1537), in 1531 to Sir Thomas Neville, (fn. 59) who in
the same year conveyed Southwick manor, including land in Kingston, to Richard Bellingham. (fn. 60)
Another Richard Bellingham died in 1592 holding
lands that included an estate called Southwick and
leaving a wife Mary and a son Richard. (fn. 61) The later
descent has not been traced; the estate may be the
one which c. 1800 was said to be held of an unspecified manor of the duke of Norfolk. (fn. 62)
In the early 13th century and perhaps in the late
12th Odo son of William de Dammartin had a
considerable estate in Southwick. By 1222 he had
been succeeded by his son Odo, (fn. 63) and in 1225 John
of Wauton and his wife Alice, as sister and heir of
the younger Odo, claimed a plough-land there. (fn. 64)
Part of the Dammartin estate may have been what
was granted to Reigate priory, for although the
priory's founder, William de Warenne, earl of
Surrey (d. 1240), is assumed to have given it its
land in Southwick both William and Odo were
benefactors of other houses of Austin canons in
Surrey; (fn. 65) in 1258, when the prior of Reigate called
Henry of Winchester to warrant him against
Beatrice de Valle concerning 189 a. in Southwick,
another John of Wauton and Thomas son of John
of Warbleton or Warblington, who held land of
Alice de Dammartin in Surrey, put in claims. (fn. 66)
The prior had the highest assessment for tax in
Southwick in 1296 and 1332, (fn. 67) held 9 yardlands in
the barony of Bramber in 1361, (fn. 68) and in 1535 was
lord of the manor of EASTBROOK in Southwick,
then in the tenure of Anne Burrell, widow. (fn. 69) In
1541 the Crown granted what were described as
Eastbrook and Southwick manors to William
Howard, (fn. 70) later Lord Howard of Effingham
(d. 1573), and his wife Margaret (d. 1581). (fn. 71) Their
son Charles, created earl of Nottingham (d. 1624),
in 1595 sold more than 100 a. in Southwick to
Henry Smith, alderman of London, who used it
to endow his extensive charity. (fn. 72) Either part of the
estate reverted or Lord Howard did not sell all his
Southwick land, for his son's daughter Elizabeth,
countess of Peterborough (d. 1671), (fn. 73) retained an
interest and probably the lordship of the manor, (fn. 74)
and although Eastbrook manor was the name used
for Smith's charity estate it was said that the
trustees had never been possessed of a manor. The
trustees held 107 a. in 1674. (fn. 75) In 1902 they began
to sell parts of the estate, which by 1956 yielded in
rents only 4 per cent of the total income from the
Eastbrook endowment. (fn. 76)
A farm-house or cottage belonging to the estate
was recorded in the late 18th century, (fn. 77) its site
presumably marked by Eastbrook Barn, ½ mile
east of Southwick Street, which survived until the
early 20th century. The house called Eastbrook,
built north of Old Shoreham Road in the late 19th
century, (fn. 78) appears not to have been part of the
estate.
Part at least of the Dammartin estate, perhaps
the plough-land claimed by John of Wauton and
Alice in 1225, was held in 1232, as one of four fees
tithable to Southwick church, by Roger de Clare, (fn. 79)
Alice's second husband. Since an estate of Alice's
in Surrey was later held by members of the
Malmeyns family and after 1481 by Richard
Culpeper, (fn. 80) her Southwick property is likely to
have been the later CULPEPERS and to have
passed to Ralph Malmeyns, one of three Southwick
taxpayers in 1296 assessed at nearly equal amounts
a little lower than the prior of Reigate. John
Malmeyns was assessed in Southwick at a comparable amount in 1327 but not in 1332. (fn. 81) In the early
15th century the prior of Reigate, John Dot, and
John Gainsford were said to hold ½ fee in Southwick,
perhaps the Dammartins' estate, in equal shares. (fn. 82)
Gainsford's estate can be identified later, (fn. 83) so that
Dot possibly had the Malmeyns land. It apparently
became attached to the Maybanks' manor of
Horton, in Upper Beeding, which with Southwick
and another estate was held of Bramber barony as
1¼ knight's fee in 1361. (fn. 84) When Joan Everard in
1540 acquired Horton manor, after transactions
involving Thomas Cromwell and Richard Bellingham, (fn. 85) and also at her death in 1550, the manor
included lands in Southwick; her heir was Edward
Bannister, (fn. 86) of whom John Culpeper (d. 1565)
held 120 a. in Southwick and his son Thomas
(d. 1571) held 6 yardlands. Thomas's son and heir
Edward, then aged 9, (fn. 87) may have retained the
estate until shortly before 1612, when John Stapley
(d. 1639) settled the estate in Southwick called
Culpepers on himself and his wife Mary, who
survived him with their son Anthony. (fn. 88) Land in
Southwick amounting to 190 a. and formerly John
Stapley's had been acquired by 1671 by Thomas
Newington, who sold it in that year to Goddard
Newington. (fn. 89) By his will proved 1698 Goddard
Newington left it to his nieces Elizabeth, Mary,
and Anne Stedwell. (fn. 90) It seems afterwards to have
been acquired by the Hall family: in 1825 Nathaniel
Hall held freehold land in Southwick from the
lords of Horton manor which had passed from the
Bannisters through the Arnolds to the Bridgers.
The lords of Horton exercised right of wreck in
Southwick in the late 18th century. (fn. 91)
A second fee recorded in 1232 as tithable to
Southwick church was that of Richard de Covert,
also noted in 1222. (fn. 92) It does not seem to be represented among the fees held of Bramber barony
in 1361, (fn. 93) but in 1502 John Covert died holding a
house and c. 70 a. in Southwick as of the honor of
Bramber, (fn. 94) and in 1579 Richard Covert died
holding land elsewhere as of the earl of Arundel's
manor of Southwick by service of collecting rents
in Southwick. (fn. 95) From the Coverts' fee, therefore,
are likely to have descended the estates in Southwick described in 1800 as held from Mr. Sergison's
manor of Slaugham and Mr. Shelley's of Sullington, (fn. 96)
both of which had been held by the Coverts. (fn. 97)
Of the two other fees tithable to Southwick in
1232 that of Julian de Celario has not been otherwise traced unless it was the Hazelholt estate
mentioned below, while that of Maud de Cowdray,
evidently held by Robert de Cowdray in 1222, (fn. 98)
was described in the later 13th century as Southwick
and BRAMBLEDEN, when the same or another
Maud de Cowdray granted it to her daughter
Catherine. In the 1290s parts of Brambleden may
have been held by John Browning of Brambleden
under Richard of Ashby (fn. 99) and by Reynold
Annington. (fn. 1) John Browning was relatively highly
assessed for tax in Southwick in 1296, as were
William Browning and Reynold Annington in
1327. (fn. 2) The overlordship of Brambleden was recorded in 1316 and 1324, when it was held in dower
by Mary, widow of William de Braose (d. 1290), (fn. 3)
and in 1361 when John of Wrenby held 6 yardlands in Southwick and Brambleden of the honor
of Bramber. (fn. 4) The estate has not been traced later;
in the 15th century small freeholds in Brambleden
belonged to Broadwater manor. (fn. 5)
HAZELHOLT, which with Brambleden was
part of the barony of Bramber c. 1230, (fn. 6) included
an estate of 1 yardland which Ralph le Dred and
Alice of Iford remitted to Ralph of Perching in
1248 (fn. 7) and one of a house and 40 a., partly in Sele
(Upper Beeding), which William de Braose had
subinfeudated to Simon, son of Walter of Hazelholt, (fn. 8) in the later 13th century. Three successive
men called Simon of Hazelholt held the estate up
to 1344, the third though dead by 1346 (fn. 9) being
perhaps the one recorded in 1361 as holding 2
yardlands called Hazelholt of the honor of Bramber. (fn. 10)
In 1432 John Culpeper held 1/10 knight's fee in
Hazelholt of the same honor. (fn. 11) Culpeper's estate
may have been that held of the honor by John
Culpeper (d. 1565), whose son and heir Thomas
held 6 yardlands of the honor in Brambleden rather
than Hazelholt, in addition to the Culpepers
estate in Southwick held of Horton manor. (fn. 12) In
1540, however, Hazelholt was part of John
Bellingham's estate, along with Erringham Walkstead in Old Shoreham. (fn. 13) It may have been attached
to the Wiston estate, Charles Goring claiming to
be lord in 1820. (fn. 14) Either the Brambleden or the
Hazelholt estate is likely to be represented by the
land in Southwick which William Monke of Buckinghams (fn. 15) in Old Shoreham held. Jane, the elder of
his two daughters and heirs, took the Southwick
land to her husband Thomas Broadnax whom she
married in 1729. Broadnax changed his name to
May and later to Knight, and Edward Knight the
elder and the younger were dealing with the estate
in 1818; one of those Edwards held it c. 1830,
having changed his surname from Austen. (fn. 16) By
1842 it appears to have passed to W. P. Gorringe
of Kingston, who then had 435 a. in Southwick. (fn. 17)
The estate called GAINSFORD presumably
derived from John Gainsford's share of ½ fee recorded
in 1428. (fn. 18) About a century later Richard Gainsford
of Cowden (Kent) complained that Edward Lewknor
of Kingston occupied his lands in Southwick and
Kingston though under notice to quit and paying
too little rent. (fn. 19) Sir Edward Lewknor at his death
in 1605 held a messuage or farm called Gainsford
and lands belonging to it in Southwick. (fn. 20)
Land in Southwick belonged to the chantries in
Edburton and Crawley churches. (fn. 21)
Notwithstanding the complexity of the manorial
division of Southwick, by the early 17th century
the greater part of the land belonged either to the
lords of Kingston manor (fn. 22) or to members of the
Hall family. Henry Hall died at Southwick in 1607
holding a chief messuage there with lands in
Southwick, Kingston Bowsey, and Shoreham, as
of Bramber honor. His son and heir, also Henry, (fn. 23)
was recorded in 1615 as occupying land in Kingston
but had been replaced by John Hall by 1636. (fn. 24)
Another Henry Hall had the largest house in
Southwick in 1670, as also apparently in 1665. (fn. 25)
Successive owners appear to have been Nathaniel
Hall in 1705, (fn. 26) another Henry Hall in 1735, (fn. 27) and
three or more in succession called Nathaniel: (fn. 28)
one died in 1748, another in 1799, (fn. 29) and the last
held more than 300 a. in Southwick in 1845. (fn. 30)
His estate was held by Mrs. Esther Hall (fn. 31) in the
sixties and seventies, by Mrs. Hester Hall and I. E.
Hall in 1887, by John H. Hall in 1905 and 1930, by
Arthur Wilby Hall in 1938, (fn. 32) and by Roger Wilby
Hall in 1950. (fn. 33)
Henry Hall's house c. 1620 appears to have been
west of Kingston Lane. (fn. 34) Later the Halls lived in
the house known as the Manor House, on the east
side of Southwick Street, built in the earlier 17th
century and refronted in the late 18th. In 1960
part, and in 1966 the rest, of the offices of Southwick urban district council moved into the house,
from 1974 the offices of Adur district council. (fn. 35)
A small house immediately north of it, which
retains evidence of a hall open to the roof, seems
to have been its medieval precursor.
ECONOMIC HISTORY.
In 1086 the estate that
is assumed to have been Southwick had as many
plough-teams as there was land for, two on the
demesne and one shared among 4 villani and 8
bordars. The estate had fully recovered its value of
1066, though in the interval it had fallen to less
than half. (fn. 36) The large demesne was presumably
broken up and mostly put in tenants' hands as the
land of the parish was divided between various
manors. In the 13th century the arable land was
used to grow wheat, barley, and fodder crops, and
large numbers of pigs were pannaged. (fn. 37) In 1506
one medium-sized estate included considerably
more pasture and heath than arable, (fn. 38) and in 1538
the tenants agreed to a stint of 50 sheep, 6 cows,
and a horse for each yardland. (fn. 39) Later in the century
there seems to have been a shortage of meadow for
growing hay, because the inhabitants annually used
part of the arable to grow tares to feed their farm
horses. (fn. 40)
In the western part of the parish, where the lands
of Southwick and Kingston lay intermixed in 20
furlongs, the arable fields extended over at least
part of the downland north of the upper Brighton
road by the early 17th century, (fn. 41) and in the eastern
part there was open arable north of the road by
1671. (fn. 42) It seems unlikely that the two parts of the
parish were cultivated separately. Although some
landowners in the early 17th century had land in
only one part, the two rectors for example having
all their glebe in the intermixed lands, several had
land in both. In both parts the arable was divided
into variable but relatively small furlongs, within
which the land was held in parcels described by
the number of palls, or eighths of an acre, never
fewer than two and often as many as six; the largest
estate, that of the Halls, had probably undergone
some consolidation, since it contained several
parcels of 24 palls or more. The intermixed lands
were divided among twelve landholders, of whom
four had more than 70 a. and three less than 10 a. (fn. 43)
The Smith charity estate, 108 a. all in the eastern
part, lay two-thirds in open fields and one-third in
inclosures in 1674, and had common of pasture for
180 sheep on the down and for as many cattle,
horses, and pigs in the stubble as the inclosed land
would keep during the rest of the year. In the
earlier 18th century much of the sheep down was
ploughed up, and there was some piecemeal inclosure in the eastern part of the parish, a process
carried further by small-scale exchanges in 1782.
Sheep remained important and there were said to
be 740 in the parish c. 1800. (fn. 44) The main crops in
1801 were wheat, barley, and turnips or rape. (fn. 45) The
gradual consolidation and inclosure of the arable
fields appears to have been complete by 1842, (fn. 46)
but the 129 a. of the surviving eastern sheep down
was not inclosed until 1856. (fn. 47)
In the late 19th century market-gardening became
increasingly important, and in 1914 garden produce
was said to be the chief cultivation. (fn. 48) Two marketgardeners were listed in 1887 in Southwick, seven
in 1905, and thirteen market-gardeners, nurserymen,
and fruit-growers in 1922. (fn. 49) Between the wars much
of the market-gardens was used for houses, and
the agricultural land was reduced by 1976 to less
than a third of its former extent; of that remaining
more than half was rough grazing, a large part
belonging to the National Trust. (fn. 50)
The windmill that stood beside Old Shoreham
Road in the early 17th century (fn. 51) was presumably
John Pride's mill from which goods were stolen in
1588. (fn. 52) Millers were recorded in the 18th century; (fn. 53)
the windmill survived in 1845 but was probably
demolished or allowed to collapse soon after, its
location being recorded in the name of the Windmill
inn. At Fishersgate there was a windmill by 1753
which was later a cement mill and was demolished
after 1873, (fn. 54) having given the name to Mill Road.
Less than half the population earned its livelihood
from agriculture in the early 19th century, (fn. 55) and
the proportion presumably fell sharply during the
later 19th century. The rest looked to the harbour
for its occupations. (fn. 56) The salterns recorded in
1086 (fn. 57) have not been found referred to later. A
solitary mention of a weaver in 1729 (fn. 58) may suggest
small-scale industry, represented in the 18th century
by the more common village trades of shoemaker,
carpenter, and blacksmith. In the late 18th century
and early 19th there was much malting and brewing
in Southwick, (fn. 59) presumably to supply the demands
of Brighton where later the industry was concentrated. At Fishersgate in the 20th century a laundry
and a dyeing and cleaning works continued to serve
Brighton's needs, and from the 1920s light engineering works were established there. (fn. 60)
A fair for pedlary, belonging to the churchwardens
and overseers, was held on the Green on 19 May.
It had been established by 1784 and was abolished
in 1872. (fn. 61)
LOCAL GOVERNMENT.
Southwick appears
to have had no manor court of its own. Agricultural
orders for Southwick were made in the court of
Fishersgate half-hundred in 1538. (fn. 62) In 1611 the
churchwardens were using two tenements that had
formed part of the endowment of a chantry as a
church house, of which nothing has been discovered
after 1652. (fn. 63) The constable of the half-hundred
may have served a parochial function for Southwick
and Kingston: Henry Hall signed the protestation
return for Southwick in 1642 as constable of the
hundred and overseer of the parish, (fn. 64) and the last
constable (Richard Longhurst, d. 1865) had the
office mentioned on his gravestone. (fn. 65) Expenditure
on the poor rose fourfold between 1776 and 1803,
when some of the poor were set to work, though
there was no workhouse, and the level of the
parish rate was relatively low. The cost of maintaining the poor, after rising to a peak in 1819, fell
in the early twenties, (fn. 66) perhaps because of the
improvements to Shoreham harbour. Southwick
became part of the Steyning union on its formation
in 1835. (fn. 67) In 1899 the parish became an urban
district with twelve council members, and the
district was divided into wards in the twenties.
The district built a town hall in Albion Street in
1906, (fn. 68) of red brick with stone dressings, which by
1976 had become a warehouse following the move
of the district council's offices to the Manor House
in Southwick Street. The council was particularly
active in providing recreational open space, buying
Southwick Green in 1903 and 22 a. for the Southwick
recreation ground in 1930, (fn. 69) and played a large part
in the growth of housing in the area, having built
1,200 houses and flats by 1974. (fn. 70) In that year,
having resisted being merged in an enlarged
Shoreham in 1937, (fn. 71) Southwick became part of
Adur district.
CHURCHES.
A church was recorded in 1086 on
the estate which appears to have been Southwick,
though called Kingston. (fn. 72) It was presumably a
dependency of Kingston church, and in the late
11th or early 12th century a priest who is likely to
have been the priest of Kingston failed in his claim
against the monks of Sele to parochial rights in
Southwick and Brambleden. (fn. 73) In the late 12th
century, following a similar dispute, William the
priest of Kingston acknowledged that the tithes
and parochial rights of Southwick and Brambleden
belonged to Sele priory and not to him or to
Kingston church, and the priory granted the small
tithes and all parochial rights to William for life. (fn. 74)
The tithes and rights at issue are likely to have been
of only part of what was later Southwick parish;
although Sele priory retained tithes in Southwick,
a separate rectory of Southwick, including tithes,
was established. William, rector of Kingston,
presumably the man who had reached agreement
with Sele, agreed to the grant by his brother Simon
le Count to their cousin Robert of a perpetual
vicarage, including altarage, a third of the glebe, a
third of the corn tithes of Southwick and of Kingston,
Brambleden, and 'Brook', and all small tithes. Later
apparently, between 1173 and 1189, Simon granted
Southwick church, also called Kingston, in reversion on William's death to the Knights Templar.
Simon's grandson John le Count in 1205 claimed
the advowson, but confirmed the grant to the
Templars in 1206. (fn. 75)
The Templars brought a suit against Sele priory
in 1287 about the advowson of two-thirds of the
church. (fn. 76) From them the whole advowson passed
to the Hospitallers, who in 1338 were licensed to
appropriate the church but did not do so, (fn. 77) continuing to present rectors. (fn. 78) At the Dissolution the
patronage passed to the Crown, and it was exercised by the Lord Chancellor in the 20th century. (fn. 79)
In or before 1073 William de Braose gave tithes
in Southwick to the church of St. Nicholas of
Bramber, (fn. 80) the daughter house of St. Florent's
abbey, Saumur (Maine-et-Loire), whose possessions passed to Sele priory. Fécamp abbey (Seine
Maritime) also had tithes in Southwick, and notwithstanding a widespread exchange with St.
Florent's c. 1086 (fn. 81) retained a tithe portion there in
1207 (fn. 82) and the 1280s, (fn. 83) valued at £1 a year in 1291. (fn. 84)
Fécamp's tithes were held by Syon abbey in the
late 15th century, (fn. 85) but have not been traced later.
In 1232 Sele priory agreed that it should pay the
rector of Southwick a pension of £2 a year by
reason of the tithes which it collected in the parish.
They were assessed at 13 marks a year in 1255 but
only 5 marks in 1291. (fn. 86) With other property of the
priory they passed to Magdalen College, Oxford,
which farmed them at £5 a year in 1535, besides
10s. for a tithe portion in Hazelholt. The college
continued to pay £2 a year to the rector, and owned
a barn called Monkenbarn, presumably for the
storage of the tithes. (fn. 87) The estate was excepted
from an Act of 1576 which required colleges to
collect rents in kind. (fn. 88) In 1842 the college owned
the tithes of grain from the eastern part of the parish,
amounting to nearly half the total acreage, and was
awarded a rent-charge of £107, rather more than
half of that awarded to the rector. (fn. 89)
The rector's income was assessed at £10 a year
in 1291 (fn. 90) and at £9 13s. 9½d. clear in 1535. (fn. 91) For
the years 1829-31 it was said to average £207,
gross and net; (fn. 92) the statement c. 1890 that it was
only £100 net appears to be unreliable. (fn. 93) The
rector enjoyed all tithes except those belonging to
Magdalen College and, in early times, Fécamp or
Syon abbey. The tithes of the intermixed lands
between Southwick and Kingston, where in the
early 17th century each parcel of land tithed either
to Southwick or to Kingston, were disputed in the
1720s, after the two rectories had been held by the
same incumbent and leased together, and were
later apportioned three-quarters to Southwick.
When the tithes were commuted in 1842 the rector
of Southwick received a rent-charge of £179. The
glebe then amounted to only 10½ a., (fn. 94) whereas it
had been 30 a. in 1341 (fn. 95) and 31 a. in 1636; (fn. 96) it was
further reduced to 7 a. before 1887. (fn. 97) The rectory
house was mentioned in 1574 (fn. 98) and, as badly
neglected, in 1677. (fn. 99) It was let as barracks c. 1800,
described as unfit for residence in 1832, (fn. 1) and
replaced by a new building in the 1840s.
The earliest recorded rector of Southwick was
Alexander of Swerford, the king's clerk and friend
of Matthew Paris, (fn. 2) who in 1232 as archdeacon of
Shrewsbury and rector made the agreement with
Sele priory about tithes. He was presumably nonresident, the cure being served by a chaplain. (fn. 3) His
successors included John Kempe, rector 1407-17,
later archbishop of Canterbury. (fn. 4) In 1419 the parish
had a chantry with an income of more than 7 marks
a year, served by a chaplain, (fn. 5) and a chapel of St.
Mary was recorded in 1497, (fn. 6) but by the mid 16th
century there was an endowment of only 6s. 3d.,
providing an obit and a small charitable dole. (fn. 7)
John Pell, often described as rector of Southwick
but in fact probably curate, (fn. 8) was the father of John
Pell the mathematician, who was born there in 1611,
of Mrs. Bathsua Makin, tutor to Charles I's
daughters, (fn. 9) and of the American settler Thomas
Pell. From 1673 to 1700 two successive rectors held
both Southwick and Kingston; (fn. 10) at Southwick
John Gray was rector 1700-51, also serving Old
Shoreham and, for a time, New Shoreham. (fn. 11) John
Buckner, later bishop of Chichester, was rector
1766-74 but seems not to have been resident. (fn. 12) The
rector c. 1800 lived at a distance, (fn. 13) and Edward
Everard, rector from 1826, had a living in Hove;
each served Southwick through a curate. (fn. 14) By 1845
there was a resident rector, (fn. 15) J. C. Young, 1844-58,
son of the actor Charles M. Young (1777-1856),
who was buried at Southwick. (fn. 16) The congregations
in 1851 numbered 50 in the morning and 65 in the
afternoon. (fn. 17) The hymn-writer Arthur T. Russell
(1806-74) was rector for less than a year before
his death. (fn. 18)
The parish church of ST. MICHAEL AND
ALL ANGELS, (fn. 19) built of flint with stone dressings,
has a chancel, south chapel, aisled nave, and west
tower with a broach spire and flanking vestries. The
tower, which has arcaded openings to the two upper
stages, has been said to be Saxon, but most of its
fabric is of the 12th century or early 13th. It was
built against the older west end of the former nave,
which was probably of the 11th century. (fn. 20) In 1941
the tower was taken down after bomb damage, but
it was faithfully rebuilt in 1949, (fn. 21) and the flanking
vestries were added. The short chancel contains
13th-century lancets. The chancel arch and nave
were probably rebuilt in the 14th century, and a
timber screen of that period survives. North of the
chancel arch is what appears to be a transomed
aumbry. (fn. 22)
A south chapel and south aisle to the nave had
gone by the late 18th century (fn. 23) and presumably by
1607 when the south porch was already in place. (fn. 24)
The nave was rebuilt with narrow lean-to aisles in
1834. (fn. 25) There were further restorations in 1878
and 1888, and a new south chapel was added in
1893. (fn. 26) Among the monuments are several to
members of the Hall and Norton families. There
were three bells in 1724 and the late 18th century, (fn. 27)
but only one, of 1735, from the early 19th. (fn. 28) The
plate includes a chalice and paten of 1632. The
registers begin in 1654 and are virtually complete. (fn. 29)
An acre called Church field belonging to the
churchwardens, (fn. 30) presumably the 1¼ a. whose
rent they spent on wax in the earlier 16th century
and the lamp acre for which they paid rent to the
Crown in 1611, (fn. 31) was sold in 1876 and the income
from the invested proceeds was used for church
purposes. (fn. 32) The church had had 1 a. at 'Lurkings'
and 1¼ a. in the easternmost down c. 1620. (fn. 33) A
benefaction of 3 a. to repair the church, given by
an unknown donor at an unknown date, was
recorded in 1724. (fn. 34)
For the hamlet of Fishersgate a district church
was said in 1870 to have been recently built (fn. 35) but the
statement seems to have taken intention for fact.
A mission chapel was licensed in 1881 in the
building which also served as the National school,
and funds to pay a curate had been raised by 1893. (fn. 36)
It was called St. Peter's, had seats for 230, and was
assigned a district in 1931. A new church nearby
in Gardner Road, called St. Peter's And
St. Mary's, a brick building in Romanesque
style, was consecrated in 1938 to replace it. The
vicarage was in the gift of the Crown and the
bishop alternately. (fn. 37) North of Old Shoreham Road
a mission room of the Church Army in Downsway
was replaced in 1955 by a building which was used
both as the church of All Souls, served from the
parish church, and as a nursery school. (fn. 38)
ROMAN CATHOLICISM.
The ground floor of
a house in Church Lane was used for worship for
five years from 1950. The church of St. Theresa,
of brick in a Romanesque style, was opened in Old
Shoreham Road in 1955. (fn. 39)
PROTESTANT NONCONFORMITY.
A dwelling house was registered for Methodist worship in
1807 and a meeting house in 1808. The Wesleyans
registered a dwelling house in 1831, (fn. 40) the Baptists
one in 1830, the Congregationalists one in 1841, (fn. 41)
and unspecified groups registered houses in 1815,
1832, and 1839. (fn. 42) None of those meetings is known
to have survived in 1851. (fn. 43) The Wesleyans, however,
opened a chapel in 1876 in Albion Street. In 1901
it was served from Brighton and had seating for
240. It was replaced in 1955 by a new church hall
in Southwick Street, to which a church was added
in 1965. (fn. 44) A Primitive Methodist mission hall in
Lock Road was registered in 1879 and closed in
1906. (fn. 45) The Baptists are said to have used c. 1880
a converted hulk, standing or lying conveniently
close to the harbour for immersion. (fn. 46) A Congregational church was built in Southview Road in
1904, (fn. 47) a small stuccoed building which remained
in use in 1976. An assembly room by the Green,
registered by Brethern in 1899, was replaced in
1921 by a mission hall in Lock Road, which had
gone out of use by 1964; (fn. 48) it may have been the
gospel hall mentioned in 1922 and 1930. (fn. 49) Undenominational worship was provided for in the
hall of the Seamen's Institute (registered 1903,
cancelled 1957), a mission hall in Cross Road
(registered 1932), and a room in Watling Road
registered in 1963. (fn. 50)
In Fishersgate a Protestant chapel of unspecified
denomination was registered in 1856 but had gone
out of use by 1876. Perhaps it was a forerunner of
the Particular Baptist chapel which was registered
in 1868, stood opposite the east end of Chapel
Road, and went out of use c. 1890. (fn. 51) On the north
side of Chapel Road a non-sectarian iron mission
hall, which later became Congregational, was
registered in 1879 and was apparently moved to a
site 200 yards further west, beyond West Road,
c. 1910. It remained as a chapel in 1938, (fn. 52) but by
1947 the site had become that of the Fishersgate
Hall. (fn. 53) Another iron mission hall, in St. Aubyn's
Road, was registered in 1909 and again, as the
Emmanuel Evangelical Free Church, in 1932; (fn. 54) it
survived, as the Fishersgate Mission, in 1976.
EDUCATION.
In 1818 there were two dame
schools teaching 35 children, and another 20 children
were sent by subscription to the New Shoreham
National school; a Sunday school had recently been
discontinued. (fn. 55) The two dame schools, with 52
children, survived in 1833. (fn. 56) A Church school, for
which a site was acquired in 1843, (fn. 57) received a
building grant in 1844, (fn. 58) and by 1847, when it had
separate schoolrooms and teachers' houses for boys
and girls, it was united with the National Society. (fn. 59)
In 1865 Southwick National school had an attendance of 95 in the day and 22 in the evening. (fn. 60) The
school, standing at the SE. corner of the Green, (fn. 61)
was overcrowded in 1871, when there were 109
children in accommodation that was adequate for
78, and was supplemented by four private schools
with accommodation for 57 and an attendance of
111. (fn. 62) A school board for the parish was formed
voluntarily in 1874, (fn. 63) and in 1876 it moved the
former National school into new buildings also near
the SE. corner of the Green, with three schoolrooms and three classrooms for an estimated
attendance of 310. (fn. 64) In 1904 attendance was 414,
in three departments, (fn. 65) and in 1938, immediately
after reorganization for junior boys, junior girls,
and infants, it was 450. (fn. 66) The school closed in 1960,
the various departments being replaced by Southwick Manor Hall Junior (later Middle) school,
opened in 1952, and Manor Hall Infant (later
First) school, opened in 1963, both in Manor Hall
Road, and Southwick Glebe County Junior (later
Middle) school, opened in 1960 in the building
formerly occupied by the Southwick and Shoreham
Senior Girls school. (fn. 67)
The last-named school, opened in 1934 in Church
Lane, with an attendance of 274 from Southwick,
Kingston, and Shoreham, was replaced in 1959
by King's Manor Girls school in Kingston. The
older boys attended the parallel boys' school in
Kingston from 1937. (fn. 68)
Fishersgate National school in Laylands Road
was opened in a new building with a certificated
teacher in 1881 in response to a decision by the
Education Department. In or before 1887 the
Southwick school board took over the school, (fn. 69)
which became an infant school, with an attendance
of 82 in 1893 (fn. 70) and 99 in 1938. In 1936 the school
moved to new buildings in Gardner Road near by,
where as Fishersgate County First school it continued in 1976. (fn. 71)
Southwick had at least 1 private school in 1887,
4 in 1905 and 1922, and 2 in 1938. (fn. 72) One of those
schools may have been or become the Froebel
school for boys and girls which was in Roman
Crescent in the 1950s. (fn. 73) It had moved or closed by
1976.
CHARITIES FOR THE POOR.
Apart from a
yearly payment of 2s. from the income of the
Southwick chantry in the earlier 16th century, (fn. 74)
no endowed charity expressly for the poor of the
parish is known.