CHAPTER XX.
ST. PAUL'S.
London's chief Sanctuary of Religion—The Site of St. Paul's—The Earliest authenticated Church there—The Shrine of Erkenwald—St. Paul's
Burnt and Rebuilt—It becomes the Scene of a Strange Incident—Important Political Meeting within its Walls—The Great Charter published there—St. Paul's and Papal Power in England—Turmoils around the Grand Cathedral—Relics and Chantry Chapels in St. Paul's—
Royal Visits to St. Paul's—Richard, Duke of York, and Henry VI.—A Fruitless Reconciliation—Jane Shore's Penance—A Tragedy of the
Lollards' Tower—A Royal Marriage—Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey at St. Paul's—"Peter of Westminster"—A Bonfire of Bibles—The
Cathedral Clergy Fined—A Miraculous Rood—St. Paul's under Edward VI. and Bishop Ridley—A Protestant Tumult at Paul's Cross—
Strange Ceremonials—Queen Elizabeth's Munificence—The Burning of the Spire—Desecration of the Nave—Elizabeth and Dean Nowell—
Thanksgiving for the Armada—The "Children of Paul's"—Government Lotteries—Executions in the Churchyard—Inigo Jones's
Restorations and the Puritan Parliament—The Great Fire of 1666—Burning of Old St. Paul's, and Destruction of its Monuments—Evelyn's
Description of the Fire—Sir Christopher Wren called in.

OLD ST. PAUL'S, FROM A VIEW BY HOLLAR.
Stooping under the flat iron bar that lies like a
bone in the mouth of Ludgate Hill, we pass up
the gentle ascent between shops hung with gold
chains, brimming with wealth, or crowded with all
the luxuries that civilisation has turned into necessities; and once past the impertinent black spire of
St. Martin's, we come full-butt upon the great grey
dome. The finest building in London, with the
worst approach; the shrine of heroes; the model
of grace; the chef-d'æuvre of a great genius, rises
before us, and between its sable Corinthian pillars
we have now to thread our way in search of the
old legends of St. Paul's.
The old associations rise around us as we pass
across the paved area that surrounds Queen Anne's
mean and sooty statue. From the times of the
Saxons to the present day, London's chief sanctuary
of religion has stood here above the river, a landmark to the ships of all nations that have floated
on the welcoming waters of the Thames. That
great dome, circled with its coronet of gold, is the
first object the pilgrim traveller sees, whether he
approach by river or by land; the sparkle of that
golden cross is seen from many a distant hill and
plain. St. Paul's is the central object—the very
palladium—of modern London.
Camden, the Elizabethan historian, revived an
old tradition that a Roman temple to Diana once
stood where St. Paul's was afterwards built; and
he asserts that in the reign of Edward III. an incredible quantity of ox-skulls, stag-horns, and boars'
tusks, together with some sacrificial vessels, were
exhumed on this site. Selden, a better Orientalist
than Celtic scholar (Charles I.), derived the name
of London from two Welsh words, "Llan-den"—
church of Diana. Dugdale, to confirm these traditions, drags a legend out of an obscure monkish
chronicle, to the effect that during the Diocletian
persecution, in which St. Alban, a centurion, was
martyred, the Romans demolished a church standing on the site of St. Paul's, and raised a temple to
Diana on its ruins, while in Thorny Island, Westminster, St. Peter, in the like manner, gave way
to Apollo. These myths are, however, more than
doubtful.

OLD ST. PAUL'S.—THE INTERIOR, LOOKING EAST.
Sir Christopher Wren's excavations for the
foundation of modern St. Paul's entirely refuted
these confused stories. to which the learned and
the credulous had paid too much deference. He
dug down to the river-level, and found neither oxbone nor stag-horn. What he did find, however,
was curious. It was this:—1. Below the mediæval
graves Saxon stone coffins and Saxon tombs, lined
with slabs of chalk. 2. Lower still, British graves,
and in the earth around the ivory and box-wood
skewers that had fastened the Saxons' woollen
shrouds. 3. At the same level with the Saxon
graves, and also deeper, Roman funeral urns.
These were discovered as deep as eighteen feet.
Roman lamps, tear vessels, and fragments of
sacrificial vessels of Samian ware were met with
chiefly towards the Cheapside corner of the churchyard.
There had evidently been a Roman cemetery outside this Prætorian camp, and beyond the ancient
walls of London, the wise nation, by the laws of the
Twelve Tables, forbidding the interment of the dead
within the walls of a city. There may have been
a British or a Saxon temple here; for the Church
tried hard to conquer and consecrate places where
idolatry had once triumphed. But the Temple of
Diana was moonshine from the beginning, and moonshine it will ever remain. The antiquaries were,
however, angry with Wren for the logical refutation
of their belief. Dr. Woodward (the "Martinus
Scriblerus" of Pope and his set) was especially
vehement at the slaying of his hobby, and produced
a small brass votive image of Diana, that had been
found between the Deanery and Blackfriars. Wren,
who could be contemptuous, disdained a reply, and
so the matter remained till 1830, when the discovery
of a rude stone altar, with an image of Diana,
under the foundation of the new Goldsmith's Hall,
Foster Lane, Cheapside, revived the old dispute, yet
did not help a whit to prove the existence of the
supposed temple to the goddess of moonshine.
The earliest authenticated church of St. Paul's
was built and endowed by Ethelbert, King of East
Kent, with the sanction of Sebert, King of the
East Angles; and the first bishop who preached
within its walls was Mellitus, the companion of
St. Augustine, the first Christian missionary who
visited the heathen Saxons. The visit of St. Paul
to England in the time of Boadicea's war, and that
of Joseph of Arimathea, are mere monkish legends.
The Londoners again became pagan, and for
thirty-eight years there was no bishop at St.
Paul's, till a brother of St. Chad of Lichfield
came and set his foot on the images of Thor and
Wodin. With the fourth successor of Mellitus,
Saint Erkenwald, wealth and splendour returned
to St. Paul's. This zealous man worked miracles
both before and after his death. He used to be
driven about in a cart, and one legend says that he
often preached to the woodmen in the wild forests
that lay to the north of London. On a certain day
one of the cart-wheels came off in a slough. The
worthy confessor was in a dilemma. The congregation under the oaks might have waited for ever,
but the one wheel left was equal to the occasion,
for it suddenly grew invested with special powers of
balancing, and went on as steadily as a velocipede
with the smiling saint. This was pretty well, but
still nothing to what happened after the good man's
death.
St. Erkenwald departed at last in the odour of
sanctity at his sister's convent at Barking. Eager to
get hold of so valuable a body, the Chertsey monks
instantly made a dash for it, pursued by the equally
eager clergy of St. Paul's, who were fully alive to
the value of their dead bishop, whose shrine would
become a money-box for pilgrim's offerings. The
London priests, by a forced march, got first to
Barking and bore off the body; but the monks of
Chertsey and the nuns of Barking followed, wringing
their hands and loudly protesting against the theft.
The river Lea, sympathising with their prayers, rose
in a flood. There was no boat, no bridge, and a
fight for the body seemed imminent. A pious man
present, however, exhorted the monks to peace,
and begged them to leave the matter to heavenly
decision. The clergy of St. Paul's then broke forth
into a litany. The Lea at once subsided, the
cavalcade crossed at Stratford, the sun cast down
its benediction, and the clergy passed on to St.
Paul's with their holy spoil. From that time the
shrine of Erkenwald became a source of wealth and
power to the cathedral.
The Saxon kings, according to Dean Milman,
were munificent to St. Paul's. The clergy claimed
Tillingham, in Essex, as a grant from King Ethelbert, and that place still contributes to the maintenance of the cathedral. The charters of Athelstane are questionable, but the places mentioned in
them certainly belonged to St. Paul's till the Ecclesiastical Commissioners broke in upon that wealth;
and the charter of Canute, still preserved, and no
doubt authentic, ratifies the donations of his Saxon
predecessors.
William the Conqueror's Norman Bishop of
London was a good, peace-loving man, who interceded with the stern monarch, and recovered the
forfeited privileges of the refractory London citizens.
For centuries—indeed, even up to the end of
Queen Mary's reign—the mayor, aldermen, and
crafts used to make an annual procession to St.
Paul's, to visit the tomb of good Bishop William
in the nave. In 1622 the Lord Mayor, Edward
Barkham, caused these quaint lines to be carved
on the bishop's tomb:—
"Walkers, whosoe'er ye bee,
If it prove you chance to see,
Upon a solemn scarlet day,
The City senate pass this way,
Their grateful memory for to show,
Which they the reverent ashes owe
Of Bishop Norman here inhumed,
By whom this city has assumed
Large privileges; those obtained
By him when Conqueror William reigned.
This being by Barkham's thankful mind renewed,
Call it the monument of gratitude."
The ruthless Conqueror granted valuable privileges to St. Paul's. He freed the church from the
payment of Danegeld, and all services to the Crown.
His words (if they are authentic) are—"Some
lands I give to God and the church of St. Paul's,
in London, and special franchises, because I wish
that this church may be free in all things, as I wish
my soul to be on the day of judgment." In this
same reign the Primate Lanfranc held a great
council at St. Paul's—a council which Milman
calls "the first full Ecclesiastical Parliament of
England." Twelve years after (1087), the year
the Conqueror died, fire, that persistent enemy
of St. Paul's, almost entirely consumed the
cathedral.
Bishop Maurice set to work to erect a more
splendid building, with a vast crypt, in which the
valuable remains of St. Erkenwald were enshrined.
William of Malmesbury ranked it among the great
buildings of his time. One of the last acts of the
Conqueror was to give the stone of a Palatine
tower (on the subsequent site of Blackfriars) for the
building. The next bishop, De Balmeis, is said
to have devoted the whole of his revenues for
twenty years to this pious work. Fierce Rufus—
no friend of monks—did little; but the milder
monarch, Henry I., granted exemption of toll to
all vessels, laden with stone for St. Paul's, that
entered the Fleet.
To enlarge the area of the church, King Henry
gave part of the Palatine Tower estate, which was
turned into a churchyard and encircled with a wall,
which ran along Carter Lane to Creed Lane, and
was freed of buildings. The bishop, on his part,
contributed to the service of the altar the rents of
Paul's Wharf, and for a school gave the house of
Durandus, at the corner of Bell Court. On the
bishop's death, the Crown seized his wealth, and
the bishop's boots were carried to the Exchequer
full of gold and silver. St. Bernard, however,
praises him, and says: "It was not wonderful that
Master Gilbert should be a bishop; but that the
Bishop of London should live like a poor man,
that was magnificent."
In the reign of Stephen a dreadful fire broke out
and raged from London Bridge to St. Clement
Danes. In this fire St. Paul's was partially
destroyed. The Bishop, in his appeals for contributions to the church, pleaded that this was the
only London church specially dedicated to St.
Paul. The citizens of London were staunch advocates of King Stephen against the Empress Maud,
and at their folkmote, held at the Cheapside end
of St. Paul's, claimed the privilege of naming a
monarch.
In the reign of Henry II. St. Paul's was the
scene of a strange incident connected with the
quarrel between the King and that ambitious
Churchman, the Primate Becket. Gilbert Foliot,
the learned and austere Bishop of London, had
sided with the King and provoked the bitter hatred
of Becket. During the celebration of mass a
daring emissary of Becket had the boldness to
thrust a roll, bearing the dreaded sentence of
excommunication against Foliot, into the hands
of the officiating priest, and at the same time to
cry aloud—"Know all men that Gilbert, Bishop
of London, is excommunicated by Thomas, Archbishop of Canterbury!" Foliot for a time defied
the interdict, but at last bowed to his enemy's
authority, and refrained from entering the Church
of St. Paul's.
The reign of Richard I. was an eventful one to
St. Paul's. In 1191, when Cœur de Lion was in
Palestine, Prince John and all the bishops met in
the nave of St. Paul's to arraign William de Longchamp, one of the King's regents, of many acts of
tyranny. In the reign of their absentee monarch
the Londoners grew mutinous, and their leader,
William Fitzosbert, or Longbeard, denounced their
oppressors from Paul's Cross. These disturbances
ended in the siege of Bow Church, where Fitzosbert had fortified himself, and by the burning
alive of him and other ringleaders. It was at this
period that Dean Radulph de Diceto, a monkish
chronicler of learning, built the Deanery, "inhabited," says Milman, "after him, by many men of
letters;" before the Reformation, by the admirable
Colet; after the Reformation by Alexander Nowell,
Donne, Sancroft (who rebuilt the mansion after the
Great Fire), Stillingfleet, Tillotson, W. Sherlock,
Butler, Secker, Newton, Van Mildert, Copleston,
and Milman.
St. Paul's was also the scene of one of those great
meetings of prelates, abbots, deans, priors, and
barons that finally led to King John's concession
of Magna Charta. On this solemn occasion—so
important for the progress of England—the Primate
Langton displayed the old charter of Henry I. to
the chief barons, and made them sacredly pledge
themselves to stand up for Magna Charta and the
liberties of England.
One of the first acts of King Henry III. was
to hold a council in St. Paul's, and there publish
the Great Charter. Twelve years after, when a
Papal Legate enthroned himself in St. Paul's, he
was there openly resisted by Cantelupe, Bishop of
Worcester.
Papal power in this reign attained its greatest
height in England. On the death of Bishop Roger,
an opponent of these inroads, the King gave orders
that out of the episcopal revenue 1,500 poor
should be feasted on the day of the conversion of
St. Paul, and 1,500 lights offered in the church.
The country was filled with Italian prelates. An
Italian Archbishop of Canterbury, coming to St.
Paul's, with a cuirass under his robes, to demand
first-fruits from the Bishop, found the doors closed
in his face; and two canons of the Papal party,
endeavouring to install themselves at St. Paul's,
were in 1259 killed by the angry populace.
In the reign of this weak king several folkmotes
of the London citizens were held at Paul's Cross,
in the churchyard. On one occasion the king
himself, and his brother, the King of Almayne,
were present. All citizens, even to the age of
twelve, were sworn to allegiance, for a great outbreak for liberty was then imminent. The inventory
of the goods of Bishop Richard de Gravesend,
Bishop of London for twenty-five years of this
reign, is still preserved in the archives of St.
Paul's. It is a roll twenty-eight feet long. The
value of the whole property was nearly £3,000,
and this sum (says Milman) must be multiplied by
about fifteen to bring it to its present value.
When the citizens of London justly ranged
themselves on the side of Simon de Montfort, who
stood up for their liberties, the great bell of St.
Paul's was the tocsin that summoned the burghers
to arms, especially on that memorable occasion
when Queen Eleanor tried to escape by water from
the Tower to Windsor, where her husband was,
and the people who detested her tried to sink her
barge as it passed London Bridge.
In the equally troublous reign of Edward II.
St. Paul's was again splashed with blood. The
citizens, detesting the king's foreign favourites, rose
against the Bishop of Exeter, Edward's regent in
London. A letter from the queen, appealing to
them, was affixed to the cross in Cheapside. The
bishop demanded the City keys of the Lord
Mayor, and the people sprang to arms, with cries
of "Death to the queen's enemies!" They cut
off the head of a servant of the De Spensers, burst
open the gates of the Bishop of Exeter's palace
(Essex Street, Strand), and plundered, sacked,
and destroyed everything. The bishop, at the
time riding in the Islington fields, hearing the
danger, dashed home, and made straight for
sanctuary in St. Paul's. At the north door, however, the mob thickening, tore him from his horse,
and, hurrying him into Cheapside, proclaimed
him a traitor, and beheaded him there, with two
of his servants. They then dragged his body
back to his palace, and flung the corpse into the
river.
In the inglorious close of the glorious reign of
Edward III., Courtenay, Bishop of London, an
inflexible prelate, did his best to induce some of
the London rabble to plunder the Florentines, at
that time the great bankers and money-lenders of
the metropolis, by reading at Paul's Cross the
interdict Gregory XI. had launched against them;
but on this occasion the Lord Mayor, leading the
principal Florentine merchants into the presence
of the aged king, obtained the royal protection for
them.
Wycliffe and his adherents (amongst whom
figured John of Gaunt— "old John of Gaunt,
time-honoured Lancaster" —Chaucer's patron)
soon brewed more trouble in St. Paul's for the
proud bishop. The great reformer being summoned to an ecclesiastical council at St. Paul's,
was accompanied by his friends, John of Gaunt
and the Earl Marshal, Lord Percy. When in the
lady chapel Percy demanded a soft seat for
Wycliffe. The bishop said it was law and reason
that a cited man should stand before the ordinary.
Angry words ensued, and the Duke of Lancaster
taunted Courtenay with his pride. The bishop
answered, "I trust not in man, but in God alone,
who will give me boldness to speak the truth."
A rumour was spread that John of Gaunt had
threatened to drag the bishop out of the church
by the hair, and that he had vowed to abolish
the title of Lord Mayor. A tumult began. All
through the City the billmen and bowmen gathered.
The Savoy, John of Gaunt's palace, would have
been burned but for the intercession of the bishop.
A priest mistaken for Percy was murdered. The
duke fled to Kensington, and joined the Princess
of Wales.
Richard II., that dissolute, rash, and unfortunate
monarch, once only (alive) came to St. Paul's in
great pomp, his robes hung with bells, and afterwards feasted at the house of his favourite, Sir
Nicholas Brember, who was eventually put to death.
The Lollards were now making way, and Archbishop Courtenay had a great barefooted procession to St. Paul's to hear a famous Carmelite
preacher inveigh against the Wycliffe doctrines.
A Lollard, indeed, had the courage to nail to the
doors of St. Paul's twelve articles of the new creed
denouncing the mischievous celibacy of the clergy,
transubstantiation, prayers for the dead, pilgrimages, and other mistaken and idolatrous usages.
When Henry Bolingbroke (not yet crowned Henry
IV.) came to St. Paul's to offer prayer for the
dethronement of his ill-fated cousin, Richard, he
paused at the north side of the altar to shed tears
over the grave of his father, John of Gaunt,
interred early that very year in the Cathedral.
Not long after the shrunken body of the dead
king, on its way to the Abbey, was exposed in
St. Paul's, to prove to the populace that Richard
was not still alive. Hardynge, in his chronicles
(quoted by Milman), says that the usurping king
and his nobles spread—some seven, some nine—
cloths of gold on the bier of the murdered king.
Bishop Braybroke, in the reign of Edward IV.,
was strenuous in denouncing ecclesiastical abuses.
Edward III. himself had denounced the resort of
mechanics to the refectory, the personal vices of
the priests, and the pilfering of sacred vessels. He
restored the communion-table, and insisted on daily
alms-giving. But Braybroke also condemned worse
abuses. He issued a prohibition at Paul's Cross
against barbers shaving on Sundays; he forbade
the buying and selling in the Cathedral, the
flinging stones and shooting arrows at the pigeons
and jackdaws nestling in the walls of the church,
and the playing at ball, both within and without
the church, a practice which led to the breaking of
many beautiful and costly painted windows.
But here we stop awhile in our history of St.
Paul's, on the eve of the sanguinary wars of
the Roses, to describe mediæval St. Paul's, its
structure, and internal government. Foremost
among the relics were two arms of St. Mellitus
(miraculously enough, of quite different sizes).
Behind the high altar—what Dean Milman justly
calls "the pride, glory, and fountain of wealth" to
St. Paul's—was the body of St. Erkenwald, covered
with a shrine which three London goldsmiths had
spent a whole year in chiselling; and this shrine was
covered with a grate of tinned iron. The very dust
of the chapel floor, mingled with water, was said to
work instantaneous cures. On the anniversary of St.
Erkenwald the whole clergy of the diocese attended
in procession in their copes. When King John
of France was made captive at Poictiers, and paid
his orisons at St. Paul's, he presented four golden
basins to the high altar, and twenty-two nobles
at the shrine of St. Erkenwald. Milman calculates
that in 1344 the oblation-box alone at St. Paul's
produced an annual sum to the dean and chapter
of £9,000. Among other relics that were milch
cows to the monks were a knife of our Lord,
some hair of Mary Magdalen, blood of St. Paul,
milk of the Virgin, the hand of St. John, pieces
of the mischievous skull of Thomas à Becket,
and the head and jaw of King Ethelbert. These
were all preserved in jewelled cases. One hundred and eleven anniversary masses were celebrated. The chantry chapels in the Cathedral
were very numerous, and they were served by an
army of idle and often dissolute mass priests.
There was one chantry in Pardon Churchyard, on
the north side of St. Paul's, east of the bishop's
chapel, where St. Thomas Becket's ancestors were
buried. The grandest was one near the nave,
built by Bishop Kemp, to pray for himself and
his royal master, Edward IV. Another was
founded by Henry IV. for the souls of his father,
John of Gaunt, and his mother, Blanche of Castile.
A third was built by Lord Mayor Pulteney, who
was buried in St. Lawrence Pulteney, so called
from him. The revenues of these chantries were
vast.
But to return to our historical sequence. During
the ruthless Wars of the Roses St. Paul's became
the scene of many curious ceremonials, on which
Shakespeare himself has touched, in his early historical plays. It was on a platform at the cathedral
door that Roger Bolingbroke, the spurious necromancer who was supposed to have aided the ambitious designs of the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester, was exhibited. The Duchess's penance for
the same offence, according to Milman's opinion,
commenced or closed near the cathedral, in that
shameful journey when she was led through the
streets wrapped in a sheet, and carrying a lighted
taper in her hand. The duke, her husband, was
eventually buried at St. Paul's, where his tomb
became the haunt of needy men about town,
whence the well-known proverb of "dining with
Duke Humphrey."
Henry VI.'s first peaceful visit to St. Paul's is
quaintly sketched by that dull old poet, Lydgate,
who describes "the bishops in pontificalibus, the
Dean of Paules and canons, every one who conveyed the king"
"Up into the church, with full devout singing;
And when he had made his offering,
The mayor, the citizens, bowed and left him."
While all the dark troubles still were pending,
we find the Duke of York taking a solemn oath
on the host of fealty to King Henry. Six years
later, after the battle of St. Albans, the Yorkists and
Lancastrians met again at the altar of St. Paul's in
feigned unity. The poor weak monarch was crowned,
and had sceptre in hand, and his proud brilliant
queen followed him in smiling converse with the
Duke of York. Again the city poet broke into
rejoicing at the final peace:—
"At Paul's in London, with great renown,
On Lady Day in Lent, this peace was wrought;
The King, the Queen, with lords many an one,
To worship the Virgin as they ought,
Went in procession, and spared right nought
In sight of all the commonalty;
In token this love was in heart and thought,
Rejoice England in concord and unity."

THE CHURCH OF ST. FAITH, THE CRYPT OF OLD ST. PAUL'S, FROM A VIEW BY HOLLAR.
Alas for such reconciliations! Four years later
more blood had been shed, more battle-fields
strewn with dead. The king was a captive,
had disinherited his own son, and granted the
succession to the Duke of York, whose right a
Parliament had acknowledged. His proud queen
was in the North rallying the scattered Lancastrians. York and Warwick, Henry's deadly enemies,
knelt before the primate, and swore allegiance to
the king; and the duke's two sons, March and
Rutland, took the same oath.
Within a few months Wakefield was fought;
Richard was slain, and the duke's head, adorned
with a mocking paper crown, was sent, by the shewolf of a queen, to adorn the walls of York.
The next year, however, fortune forsook Henry
for ever, and St. Paul's welcomed Edward IV. and
the redoubtable "king-maker," who had won the
crown for him at the battle of Mortimer's Cross;
and no Lancastrian dared show his face on that
triumphant day. Ten years later Warwick, veering
to the downfallen king, was slain at Barnet, and
the body of the old warrior, and that of his brother,
were exposed, barefaced, for three days in St. Paul's,
to the delight of all true Yorkists. Those were
terrible times, and the generosity of the old chivalry
seemed now despised and forgotten. The next month
there was even a sadder sight, for the body of King
Henry himself was displayed in the Cathedral.
Broken-hearted, said the Yorkists, but the Lancastrian belief (favoured by Shakespeare) was that
Richard Duke of Gloucester, the wicked Crookback, stabbed him with his own hand in the Tower,
and it was said that blood poured from the body
when it lay in the Cathedral. Again St. Paul's was
profaned at the death of Edward IV., when Richard
came to pay his ostentatious orisons in the Cathedral, while he was already planning the removal
of the princes to the Tower. Always anxious to
please the London citizens, it was to St. Paul's
Cross that Richard sent Dr. Shaw to accuse
Clarence of illegitimacy. At St. Paul's, too, according to Shakespeare, who in his historic plays
often follows traditions now forgotten, or chronicles
that have perished, the charges against Hastings
were publicly read. Jane Shore, the mistress, and
supposed accomplice of Hastings in bewitching
Richard, did penance in St. Paul's. She was the
wife of a London goldsmith, and had been mistress
of Edward IV. Her beauty, as she walked downcast with shame, is said to have moved every heart
to pity. On his accession, King Richard, nervously
fingering his dagger, as was his wont to do according to the chronicles, rode to St. Paul's, and was
received by procession, amid great congratulation
and acclamation from the fickle people. Kemp,
who was the Yorkist bishop during all these
dreadful times, rebuilt St. Paul's Cross, which then
became one of the chief ornaments of London.
Richard's crown was presently beaten into a
hawthorn bush on Bosworth Field, and his defaced.
mangled; and ill-shaped body thrown, like carrion,
across a pack-horse and driven off to Leicester, and
Henry VII., the astute, the wily, the thrifty, reigned
in his stead. After Henry's victory over Simnel he
came two successive days to St. Paul's to offer his
thanksgiving, and Simnel (afterwards a scullion in
the royal kitchen) rode humbly at his conqueror's
side.

ST. PAUL'S AFTER THE FALL OF THE SPIRE, FROM A VIEW BY HOLLAR (see page 244).
The last ceremonial of the reign of Henry VII.
that took place at St. Paul's was the ill-fated
marriage of Prince Arthur (a mere boy, who died
six months after) with Katherine of Arragon. The
whole church was hung with tapestry, and there
was a huge scaffold, with seats round it, reaching
from the west door to the choir. On this platform
the ceremony was performed. All day, at several
places in the city, and at the west door of the
Cathedral, the conduits ran for the delighted people
with red and white wine. The wedded children
were lodged in the bishop's palace, and three days
later returned by water to Westminster. When
Henry VII. died, his body lay in state in St. Paul's,
and from thence it was taken to Windsor, to remain
there till the beautiful chapel he had endowed at
Westminster was ready for his reception. The
Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's were among the
trustees for the endowment he left, and the Cathedral still possesses the royal testament.
A Venetian ambassador who was present has
left a graphic description of one of the earliest
ceremonies (1514) which Henry VIII. witnessed
at St. Paul's. The Pope (Leo X.) had sent the
young and chivalrous king a sword and cap of
maintenance, as a special mark of honour. The
cap was of purple satin, covered with embroidery
and pearls, and decked with ermine. The king
rode from the bishop's palace to the cathedral
on a beautiful black palfrey, the nobility walking
before him in pairs. At the high altar the king
donned the cap, and was girt with the sword.
The procession then made the entire circuit of the
church. The king wore a gown of purple satin
and gold in chequer, and a jewelled collar; his
cap of purple velvet had two jewelled rosettes,
and his doublet was of gold brocade. The nobles
wore massive chains of gold, and their chequered
silk gowns were lined with sables, lynx-fur, and
swansdown.
In the same reign Richard Fitz James, the
fanatical Bishop of London, persecuted the Lollards, and burned two of the most obstinate at
Smithfield. It is indeed, doubtful, even now, if
Fitz James, in his hatred of the reformers, stopped
short of murder. In 1514, Richard Hunn, a citizen
who had disputed the jurisdiction of the obnoxious
Ecclesiastical Court, was thrown into the Lollard's
Tower (the bishop's prison, at the south-west corner
of the Cathedral). A Wycliffe Bible had been
found in his house; he was adjudged a heretic,
and one night this obstinate man was found hung
in his cell. The clergy called it suicide, but the
coroner brought in a verdict of wilful murder
against the Bishop's Chancellor, the sumner, and
the bell-ringer of the Cathedral. The king, however, pardoned them all on their paying £1,500 to
Hunn's family. The bishop, still furious, burned
Hunn's body sixteen days after, as that of a
heretic, in Smithfield. This fanatical bishop was
the ceaseless persecutor of Dean Colet, that excellent and enlightened man, who founded St.
Paul's School, and was the untiring friend of
Erasmus, whom he accompanied on his memorable
visit to Becket's shrine at Canterbury.
In 1518 Wolsey, proud and portly, appears
upon the scene, coming to St. Paul's to sing mass
and celebrate eternal peace between France, England, and Spain, and the betrothal of the beautiful
Princess Mary to the Dauphin of France. The
large chapel and the choir were hung with gold
brocade, blazoned with the king's arms. Near
the altar was the king's pew, formed of cloth of
gold, and in front of it a small altar covered with
silver-gilt images, with a gold cross in the centre.
Two low masses were said at this before the king,
while high mass was being sung to the rest. On
the opposite side of the altar, on a raised and
canopied chair, sat Wolsey; further off stood the
legate Campeggio. The twelve bishops and six
abbots present all wore their jewelled mitres, while
the king himself shone out in a tunic of purple
velvet, "powdered" with pearls and rubies, sapphires and diamonds. His collar was studded
with carbuncles as large as walnuts. A year later
Charles V. was proclaimed emperor by the heralds
at St. Paul's. Wolsey gave the benediction, no
doubt with full hope of the Pope's tiara.
In 1521, but a little later, Wolsey, "Cardinal of
St. Cecilia and Archbishop of York," was welcomed
by Dean Pace to St. Paul's. He had come to
sit near Paul's Cross, to hear Fisher, Bishop of
Rochester, by the Pope's command, denounce
"Martinus Eleutherius" and his accursed works,
many of which were burned in the churchyard
during the sermon, no doubt to the infinite alarm
of all heretical booksellers in the neighbouring
street. Wolsey had always an eye to the emperor's
helping him to the papacy; and when Charles V.
came to England to visit Henry, in 1522, Wolsey
said mass, censed by more than twenty obsequious
prelates. It was Wolsey who first, as papal legate,
removed the convocation entirely from St. Paul's
to Westminster, to be near his house at Whitehall.
His ribald enemy, Skelton, then hiding from the
cardinal's wrath in the Sanctuary at Westminster,
wrote the following rough distich on the arbitrary
removal:—
"Gentle Paul, lay down thy sword,
For Peter of Westminster hath shaven thy beard."
On the startling news of the battle of Pavia,
when Francis I. was taken prisoner by his great
rival of Spain, a huge bonfire illumined the west front
of St. Paul's, and hogsheads of claret were broached
at the Cathedral door, to celebrate the welcome
tidings. On the Sunday after, the bluff king, the
queen, and both houses of Parliament, attended a
solemn "Te Deum" at the cathedral; while on
St. Matthew's Day there was a great procession of
all the religious orders in London, and Wolsey,
with his obsequious bishops, performed service at
the high altar. Two years later Wolsey came
again, to lament or rejoice over the sack of Rome
by the Constable Bourbon, and the captivity of
the Pope.
Singularly enough, the fire lighted by Wolsey in
St. Paul's Churchyard had failed to totally burn up
Luther and all his works; and on Shrove Tuesday,
1527, Wolsey made another attempt to reduce the
new-formed Bible to ashes. In the great procession that came on this day to St. Paul's there
were six Lutherans in penitential dresses, carrying
terribly symbolical fagots and huge lighted tapers.
On a platform in the nave sat the portly and proud
cardinal, supported by thirty-six zealous bishops,
abbots, and priests. At the foot of the great rood
over the northern door the heretical tracts and
Testaments were thrown into a fire. The prisoners,
on their knees, begged pardon of God and the
Catholic Church, and were then led three times
round the fire, which they fed with the fagots they
had carried.
Four years later, after Wolsey's fall, the London
clergy were summoned to St. Paul's Chapter-house
(near the south side). The king, offended at the
Church having yielded to Wolsey's claims as a
papal legate, by which the penalty of præmunire
had been incurred, had demanded from it the
alarming fine of £100,000. Immediately six
hundred clergy of all ranks thronged riotously to
the chapter-house, to resist this outrageous tax.
The bishop was all for concession; their goods
and lands were forfeit, their bodies liable to imprisonment. The humble clergy cried out, "We
have never meddled in the cardinal's business.
Let the bishops and abbots, who have offended,
pay." Blows were struck, and eventually fifteen
priests and four laymen were condemned to terms
of imprisonment in the Fleet and Tower, for their
resistance to despotic power.
In 1535 nineteen German Anabaptists were
examined in St. Paul's, and fourteen of them sent
to the stake. Then came plain signs that the
Reformation had commenced. The Pope's authority had been denied at Paul's Cross in 1534.
A miraculous rood from Kent was brought to St.
Paul's, and the machinery that moved the eyes
and lips was shown to the populace, after which
it was thrown down and broken amid contemptuous
laughter. Nor would this chapter be complete if
we did not mention a great civic procession at the
close of the reign of Henry VIII. On Whit
Sunday, 1546, the children of Paul's School, with
parsons and vicars of every London church, in
their copes, went from St. Paul's to St. Peter's,
Cornhill, Bishop Bonner bearing the sacrament
under a canopy; and at the Cross, before the
mayor, aldermen, and all the crafts, heralds proclaimed perpetual peace between England, France,
and the Emperor. Two months after, the exbishop of Rochester preached a sermon at Paul's
Cross recanting his heresy, four of his late fellowprisoners in Newgate having obstinately perished
at the stake.
In the reign of Edward VI. St. Paul's witnessed
far different scenes. The year of the accession of
the child-king, funeral service was read to the
memory of Francis I., Latin dirges were chanted,
and eight mitred bishops sang a requiem to the
monarch lately deceased. At the coronation,
while the guilds were marshalled along Cheapside, and tapestries hung from every window, an
acrobat descended by a cable from St. Paul's
steeple to the anchor of a ship near the Deanery
door. In November of the next year, at night, the
crucifixes and images in St. Paul's were pulled
down and removed, to the horror of the faithful,
and all obits and chantreys were confiscated, and
the vestments and altar cloths were sold. The
early reformers were backed by greedy partisans.
The Protector Somerset, who was desirous of
building rapidly a sumptuous palace in the Strand,
pulled down the chapel and charnel-house in the
Pardon churchyard, and carted off the stones of
St. Paul's cloister. When the good Ridley was
installed Bishop of London, he would not enter
the choir until the lights on the altar were extinguished. Very soon a table was substituted for
the altar, and there was an attempt made to remove the organ. The altar, and chapel, and
tombs (all but John of Gaunt's) were then ruthlessly destroyed.
During the Lady Jane Grey rebellion, Ridley
denounced Mary and Elizabeth as bastards. The
accession of gloomy Queen Mary soon turned the
tables. As the Queen passed to her coronation, a
daring Dutchman stood on the cross of St. Paul's
waving a long streamer, and shifting from foot to
foot as he shook two torches which he held over
his head.
But the citizens were Protestants at heart. At the
first sermon preached at St. Paul's Cross, Dr. Bourne,
a rash Essex clergyman, prayed for the dead, praised
Bonner, and denounced Ridley. The mob, inflamed to madness, shouted, "He preaches damnation! Pull him down! pull him down!" A
dagger, thrown at the preacher, stuck quivering in
a side-post of the pulpit. With difficulty two good
men dragged the rash zealot safely into St. Paul's
School. For this riot several persons were sent to
the Tower, and a priest and a barber had their
ears nailed to the pillory at St. Paul's Cross. The
crosses were raised again in St. Paul's, and the old
ceremonies and superstitions revived. On St.
Katherine's Day (in honour of the queen's mother's
patron saint) there was a procession with lights,
and the image of St. Katherine, round St. Paul's
steeple, and the bells rang. Yet not long after this,
when a Dr. Pendleton preached old doctrines at
St. Paul's Cross, a gun was fired at him. When
Bonner was released from the Marshalsea and
restored to his see, the people shouted, "Welcome
home;" and a woman ran forward and kissed
him. We are told that he knelt in prayer on the
Cathedral steps.
In 1554, at the reception in St. Paul's of Cardinal Pole, King Philip attended with English,
Spanish, and German guards, and a great retinue
of nobles. Bishop Gardiner preached on the widening heresy till the audience groaned and wept. Of
the cruel persecutions of the Protestants in this
reign St. Paul's was now and then a witness, and
likewise of the preparations for the execution of
Protestants, which Bonner's party called "trials."
Thus we find Master Cardmaker, vicar of St.
Bride's, and Warne, an upholsterer in Walbrook,
both arraigned at St. Paul's before the bishop for
heresy, and carried back from there to Newgate,
to be shortly after burned alive in Smithfield.
In the midst of these horrors, a strange ceremony took place at St. Paul's, more worthy, indeed,
of the supposititious temple of Diana than of
a Christian cathedral, did it not remind us that
Popery was always strangely intermingled with fragments of old paganism. In June, 1557 (St. Paul's
Day, says Machyn, an undertaker and chronicler
of Mary's reign), a fat buck was presented to the
dean and chapter, according to an annual grant
made by Sir Walter le Baud, an Essex knight, in the
reign of Edward I. A priest from each London
parish attended in his cope, and the Bishop of
London wore his mitre, while behind the burly,
bullying, persecutor Bonner came a fat buck, his
head with his horns borne upon a pole; forty
huntsmen's horns blowing a rejoicing chorus.
The last event of this blood-stained reign was
the celebration at St. Paul's of the victory over
the French at the battle of St. Quintin by Philip
and the Spaniards. A sermon was preached to
the city at Paul's Cross, bells were rung, and bonfires blazed in every street.
At Elizabeth's accession its new mistress soon
purged St. Paul's of all its images: copes and
shaven crowns disappeared. The first ceremony of
the new reign was the performance of the obsequies
of Henry II. of France. The empty hearse was
hung with cloth of gold, the choir draped in black,
the clergy appearing in plain black gowns and caps.
And now, what the Catholics called a great judgment
fell on the old Cathedral. During a great storm in
1561, St. Martin's Church, Ludgate, was struck by
lightning; immediately after, the wooden steeple of
St. Paul's started into a flame. The fire burned
downwards furiously for four hours, the bells melted,
the lead poured in torrents; the roof fell in, and
the whole Cathedral became for a time a ruin.
Soon after, at the Cross, Dean Nowell rebuked the
Papists for crying out "a judgment." In papal
times the church had also suffered. In Richard I.'s
reign an earthquake shook down the spire, and in
Stephen's time fire had also brought destruction.
The Crown and City were roused by this misfortune.
Thrifty Elizabeth gave 1,000 marks in gold, and
1,000 marks' worth of timber; the City gave
a great benevolence, and the clergy subscribed
£1,410. In one month a false roof was erected,
and by the end of the year the aisles were leaded
in. On the 1st of November, the same year, the
mayor, aldermen, and crafts, with eighty torchbearers, went to attend service at St. Paul's. The
steeple, however, was never re-erected, in spite of
Queen Elizabeth's angry remonstrances.
In the first year of Philip and Mary, the Common
Council of London passed an act which shows the
degradation into which St. Paul's had sunk even
before the fire. It forbade the carrying of beercasks, or baskets of bread, fish, flesh, or fruit, or
leading mules or horses through the Cathedral,
under pain of fines and imprisonment. Elizabeth
also issued a proclamation to a similar effect, forbidding a fray, drawing of swords in the church,
or shooting with hand-gun or dagg within the
church or churchyard, under pain of two months'
imprisonment. Neither were agreements to be
made for the payment of money within the church.
Soon after the fire, a man that had provoked a fray
in the church was set in the pillory in the churchyard, and had his ears nailed to a post, and then
cut off. These proclamations, however, led to no reform. Cheats, gulls, assassins, and thieves thronged
the middle aisle of St. Paul's; advertisements of all
kinds covered the walls, the worst class of servants
came there to be hired; worthless rascals and disreputable flaunting women met there by appointment. Parasites, hunting for a dinner, hung about
a monument of the Beauchamps, foolishly believed
to be the tomb of the good Duke Humphrey.
Shakespeare makes Falstaff hire red-nosed Bardolph
in St. Paul's, and Ben Jonson lays the third act
of his Every Man in his Humour in the middle
aisle. Bishop Earle, in his "Microcosmography,"
describes the noise of the crowd of idlers in Paul's
"as that of bees, a strange hum mixed of walking
tongues and feet, a kind of still roar or loud
whisper." He describes the crowd of young curates,
copper captains, thieves, and dinnerless adventurers
and gossip-mongers. Bishop Corbet, that jolly
prelate, speaks of
"The walk,
Where all our British sinners swear and talk,
Old hardy ruffians, bankrupts, soothsayers,
And youths whose cousenage is old as theirs."
On the eve of the election of Sandys as Bishop
of London, May, 1570, all London was roused by
a papal bull against Elizabeth being found nailed
on the gates of the bishop's palace. It declared
her crown forfeited and her people absolved from
their oaths of allegiance. The fanatic maniac,
Felton, was soon discovered, and hung on a gallows
at the bishop's gates.
One or two anecdotes of interest specially connect Elizabeth with St. Paul's. On one occasion Dean Nowell placed in the queen's closet
(pew) a splendid prayer-book, full of German
scriptural engravings, richly illuminated. The
zealous queen was furious; the book seemed to
her of Catholic tendencies.
"Who placed this book on my cushion? You
know I have an aversion to idolatry. The cuts
resemble angels and saints—nay, even grosser
absurdities."
The frightened dean pleaded innocence of all
evil intentions. The queen prayed God to grant
him more wisdom for the future, and asked him
where they came from. When told Germany, she
replied, "It is well it was a stranger. Had it
been one of my subjects, we should have questioned the matter."
Once again Dean Nowell vexed the queen—this
time from being too Puritan. On Ash Wednesday, 1572, the dean preaching before her, he
denounced certain popish superstitions in a book
recently dedicated to her majesty. He specially
denounced the use of the sign of the cross. Suddenly a harsh voice was heard in the royal closet.
It was Elizabeth's. She chidingly bade Mr. Dean
return from his ungodly digression and revert to
his text. The next day the frightened dean
wrote a most abject apology to the high-spirited
queen.
The victory over the Armada was, of course,
not forgotten at St. Paul's. When the thanksgiving sermon was preached at Paul's Cross, eleven
Spanish ensigns waved over the cathedral battlements, and one idolatrous streamer with an image
of the Virgin fluttered over the preacher. That
was in September; the Queen herself came in
November, drawn by four white horses, and with
the privy council and all the nobility. Elizabeth
heard a sermon, and dined at the bishop's palace.
The "children of Paul's," whom Shakespeare, in
Hamlet, mentions with the jealousy of a rival
manager, were, as Dean Milman has proved, the
chorister-boys of St. Paul's. They acted, it is supposed, in their singing-school. The play began at
four p.m., after prayers, and the price of admission
was 4d. They are known at a later period to
have acted some of Lily's Euphuistic plays, and
one of Middleton's.
In this reign lotteries for Government purposes
were held at the west door of St. Paul's, where a
wooden shed was erected for drawing the prizes,
which were first plate and then suits of armour.
In the first lottery (1569) there were 40,000 lots
at 10s. a lot, and the profits were applied to repairing the harbours of England.
In the reign of James I. blood was again shed
before St. Paul's. Years before a bishop had been
murdered at the north door;. now, before the west
entrance (in January, 1605–6), four of the desperate Gunpowder Plot conspirators (Sir Everard
Digby, Winter, Grant, and Bates) were there hung,
drawn, and quartered. Their attempt to restore
the old religion by one blow ended in the hangman's strangling rope and the executioner's cruel
knife. In the May following a man of less-proven
guilt (Garnet, the Jesuit) suffered the same fate in
St. Paul's Churchyard; and zealots of his faith
affirmed that on straws saved from the scaffold
miraculous portraits of their martyr were discovered.
The ruinous state of the great cathedral, still
without a tower, now aroused the theological king.
He first tried to saddle the bishop and chapter,
but Lord Southampton, Shakespeare's friend, interposed to save them. Then the matter went to
sleep for twelve years. In 1620 the king again
awoke, and came in state with all his lords on
horseback, to hear a sermon at the Cross and to
view the church. A royal commission followed,
Inigo Jones, the king's protégé, whom James had
brought from Denmark, being one of the commissioners. The sum required was estimated at
£22,536. The king's zeal ended here; and his
favourite, Buckingham, borrowed the stone collected for St. Paul's for his Strand palace, and from
parts of it was raised that fine water-gate still existing in the Thames Embankment gardens.
When Charles I. made that narrow-minded
churchman, Laud, Bishop of London, one of Laud's
first endeavours was to restore St. Paul's. Charles I.
was a man of taste, and patronised painting and
architecture. Inigo Jones was already building
the Banqueting House at Whitehall. The king
was so pleased with Inigo's design for the new
portico of St. Paul's, that he proposed to pay for
that himself. Laud gave £1,200. The fines of
the obnoxious and illegal High Commission Court
were set apart for the same object. The small
sheds and houses round the west front were ruthlessly cleared away. All shops in Cheapside and
Lombard Street, except goldsmiths, were to be
shut up, that the eastern approach to St. Paul's
might appear more splendid. The church of
St. Gregory, at the south-west wing of the cathedral,
was removed and rebuilt. Inigo Jones cut away
all the decayed stone and crumbling Gothic work of
the Cathedral, and on the west portico expended
all the knowledge he had acquired in his visit to
Rome. The result was a pagan composite, beautiful
but incongruous. The front, 161 feet long and
162 feet high, was supported by fourteen Corinthian
columns. On the parapet above the pillars Inigo
proposed that there should stand ten statues of
princely benefactors of St. Paul's. At each angle
of the west front there was a tower. The portico
was intended for a Paul's Walk, to drain off the
profanation from within.
Nor were the London citizens backward. One
most large-hearted man, Sir Paul Pindar, a Turkey
merchant who had been ambassador at Constantinople, and whose house is still to be seen in Bishopsgate Street, contributed £10,000 towards the screen
and south transept. The statues of James and
Charles were set up over the portico, and the
steeple was begun, when the storm arose that soon
whistled off the king's unlucky head. The coming
troubles cast shadows around St. Paul's. In March,
1639, a paper was found in the yard of the deanery,
before Laud's house, inscribed—"Laud, look to
thyself. Be assured that thy life is sought, as thou
art the fountain of all wickedness;" and in October,
1640, the High Commission sitting at St. Paul's,
nearly 2,000 Puritans made a tumult, tore down
the benches in the consistory, and shouted, "We
will have no bishops and no High Commission."

THE CHAPTER HOUSE OF OLD ST. PAUL'S, FROM A VIEW BY HOLLAR (see page 243).
The Parliament made short work with St. Paul's,
of Laud's projects, and Inigo Jones's classicalisms.
They at once seized the £17,000 or so left of the
subscription. To Colonel Jephson's regiment, in
arrears for pay, £1,746, they gave the scaffolding
round St. Paul's tower, and in pulling it to pieces
down came part of St. Paul's south transept. The
copes in St. Paul's were burnt (to extract the gold),
and the money sent to the persecuted Protestant
poor in Ireland. The silver vessels were sold to buy
artillery for Cromwell. There was a story current
that Cromwell intended to sell St. Paul's to the Jews
for a synagogue. The east end of the church was
walled in for a Puritan lecturer; the graves were
desecrated; the choir became a cavalry barracks;
the portico was let out to sempsters and hucksters,
who lodged in rooms above; James and Charles
were toppled from the portico; while the pulpit and
cross were entirely destroyed. The dragoons in
St. Paul's became so troublesome to the inhabitants
by their noisy brawling games and their rough
interruption of passengers, that in 1651 we find
them forbidden to play at ninepins from six a.m.
to nine p.m.

DR. BOURNE PREACHING AT PAUL'S CROSS (see page 243).
When the Restoration came, sunshine again fell
upon the ruins. Wren, that great genius, was called
in. His report was not very favourable. The
pillars were giving way; the whole work had been
from the beginning ill designed and ill built; the
tower was leaning. He proposed to have a rotunda,
with cupola and lantern, to give the church light,
"and incomparable more grace" than the lean shaft
of a steeple could possibly afford. He closed his
report by a eulogy on the portico of Inigo Jones, as
"an absolute piece in itself." Some of the stone
collected for St. Paul's went, it is said, to build
Lord Clarendon's house (site of Albemarle Street).
On August 27, 1661, good Mr. Evelyn, one of
the commissioners, describes going with Wren, the
Bishop and Dean of St. Paul's, &c., and resolving
finally on a new foundation. On Sunday, September 2, the Great Fire drew a red cancelling line
over Wren's half-drawn plans. The old cathedral
passed away, like Elijah, in flames. The fire broke
out about ten o'clock on Saturday night at a bakehouse in Pudding Lane, near East Smithfield. Sunday afternoon Pepys found all the goods carried
that morning to Cannon Street now removing to
Lombard Street. At St. Paul's Wharf he takes
water, follows the king's party, and lands at Bankside. "In corners and upon steeples, and between
churches and houses, as far as we could see up the
city, a most horrid, bloody, malicious flame, not
like the flame of an ordinary fire." On the 7th,
he saw St. Paul's Church with all the roof off, and
the body of the quire fallen into St. Faith's.
On Monday, the 3rd, Mr. Evelyn describes the
whole north of the City on fire, the sky light for
ten miles round, and the scaffolds round St. Paul's
catching. On the 4th he saw the stones of St.
Paul's flying like grenades, the melting lead running
in streams down the streets, the very pavements
too hot for the feet, and the approaches too
blocked for any help to be applied. A Westminster
boy named Taswell (quoted by Dean Milman
from "Camden's Miscellany," vol. ii., p. 12) has also
sketched the scene. On Monday, the 3rd, from
Westminster he saw, about eight o'clock, the fire
burst forth, and before nine he could read by the
blaze a 16mo "Terence" which he had with him.
The boy at once set out for St. Paul's, resting by
the way upon Fleet Bridge, being almost faint with
the intense heat of the air. The bells were melting,
and vast avalanches of stones were pouring from
the walls. Near the east end he found the body
of an old woman, who had cowered there, burned
to a coal. Taswell also relates that the ashes of
the books kept in St. Faith's were blown as far
as Eton.
On the 7th (Friday) Evelyn again visited St.
Paul's. The portico he found rent in pieces, the
vast stones split asunder, and nothing remaining
entire but the inscription on the architrave, not
one letter of which was injured. Six acres of lead
on the roof were all melted. The roof of St.
Faith's had fallen in, and all the magazines and
books from Paternoster Row were consumed,
burning for a week together. Singularly enough,
the lead over the altar at the east end was
untouched, and among the monuments the body
of one bishop (Braybroke—Richard II.) remained
entire. The old tombs nearly all perished; amongst
them those of two Saxon kings, John of Gaunt, his
wife Constance of Castile, poor St. Erkenwald, and
scores of bishops, good and bad; Sir Nicholas
Bacon, Elizabeth's Lord Keeper, and father of the
great philosopher; the last of the true knights, the
gallant Sir Philip Sidney; and Walsingham, that
astute counsellor of Elizabeth. Then there was Sir
Christopher Hatton, the dancing chancellor, whose
proud monument crowded back Walsingham and
Sidney's. According to the old scoffing distich,
"Philip and Francis they have no tomb,
For great Christopher takes all the room."
Men of letters in old St. Paul's (says Dean Milman)
there were few. The chief were Lily, the gram
marian, second master of St. Paul's; and Linacre,
the physician, the friend of Colet and Erasmus.
Of artists there was at least one great man—Vandyck, who was buried near John of Gaunt.
Among citizens, the chief was Sir William Hewet,
whose daughter married Osborne, an apprentice,
who saved her from drowning, and who was the
ancestor of the Dukes of Leeds.
After the fire, Bishop Sancroft preached in a
patched-up part of the west end of the ruins. All
hopes of restoration were soon abandoned, as Wren
had, with his instinctive genius, at once predicted.
Sancroft at once wrote to the great architect,
"What you last whispered in my ear is now come
to pass." A pillar has fallen, and the rest
threatens to follow." The letter concludes thus:
"You are so absolutely necessary to us, that we
can do nothing, resolve on nothing, without you."
There was plenty of zeal in London still; but,
nevertheless, after all, nothing was done to the rebuilding till the year 1673.