CHAPTER XL.
THE VICTORIA EMBANKMENT.
"I send, I send, here my supremest kiss
To thee, my silver-footed Tamasis;
No more shall I re-iterate thy Strand,
Whereon so many goodly structures stand."—R. Herrick.
The Thames Banks in the Early Ages—Sir Christopher Wren's Plan for embanking the River—Evelyn's Suggestion with the same View—The
Subject brought before Parliament by Sir F. W. Trench—Mr. James Walker's Plan—The Victoria Embankment commenced—The Work
described—Land reclaimed from the Thames—The Metropolitan District Railway—Quantities of Materials used in constructing the
Embankment—Offices of the London School Board—Somerset House and the New Will Depository—Special Curiosities in the Will
Office—The Buckingham Water-gate—Lines on Nelson's Column—Statue of Sir James Outram—Public Garden and Promenade—St.
Stephen's Club.
Many architects and geologists, from the days of
Sir Christopher Wren, have been of opinion that
the Thames was formerly not a river, but an estuary,
the shores of which were the hills of Camberwell
and Sydenham on the south, and of Highgate and
Hampstead on the north, with a large sandy plain
at low water, through which the river forced its
tortuous way. Sir Christopher Wren especially
considered that these sands being driven with the
wind gradually formed sand-hills, which in the
course of time, and by aid of Roman engineers,
were embanked and so changed into meadows, or
at all events into terra firma, the river being so
reduced into its present channel, and wharves being
built along the line of wall towards the river.
Considering that a large portion of what is
commonly called London is lower in level than
the high-water mark in the Thames, it is clear that
the river must have been embanked from a very
early period. Antiquaries have written to show
that the river-walls of the Thames were the work
of the native British before the advent of the
Romans, who, no doubt, completed the work which
was already begun; and it is certain that they were
not completed until a date subsequent to the
Norman Conquest.
The plan proposed by Sir Christopher Wren for
rebuilding of London after the Great Fire included
"a commodious quay on the whole bank of the
river from the Tower to Blackfriars;" but unfortunately his idea was not adopted, and the
opportunity was lost for ever. "The ingenious
Mr. Evelyn," says Northouck, "suggested another
plan with the same view, and besides lessening the
most considerable declivities, he proposed further
to employ the rubbish in filling up the shore of
the Thames to low-water mark in a straight line
from the Tower to the Temple, and form an ample
quay, if it could be done without increasing the
rapidity of the stream." But here again the old
selfish objection of "vested interests" cropped up,
and defeated the scheme, which it was reserved by
Providence for Lord Palmerston, during his tenure
of the Premiership, to carry through Parliament and
enforce upon the citizens to their very great and
manifest benefit.
During the reigns of George IV. and William IV.,
and in the early part of Victoria, the subject of an
embankment for the river from London Bridge to
Westminster was brought forward in the House of
Commons by the late Sir Frederick W. Trench, but
still, as is too often the case, "nothing was done."
Perhaps in the event London has been fortunate,
for if the work of embanking the Thames had been
taken in hand in the days of our fathers or our
grandfathers, it is to be feared that it would not
have been carried out upon the scale of magnificence which marks the work of Sir J. W. Bazalgette. It appears that in 1840 Mr. James Walker
laid down a line of embankment for the Corporation, which has now in the main been followed.
This great work is in three divisions—namely,
the "Victoria," extending from the northern end of
Blackfriars Bridge to Westminster; the "Albert,"
from the Lambeth end of Westminster Bridge to
Vauxhall; and a third section extending from Millbank to the Cadogan Pier at Chelsea, close by
Battersea Bridge.
The Victoria Embankment, of which alone we
shall treat in this chapter, forms a wide and convenient line of communication between the City
and the West End or more fashionable parts of
London. It was commenced in February, 1864,
and completed in July, 1870; and as a piece of
engineering skill it is second to none of the great
achievements that have marked the Victorian era.
The river-side footway between Westminster Bridge
and the Temple was opened to the public in 1868;
but at that time the completion of the carriageway was prevented by the unfinished condition of
the Metropolitan District Railway between Westminster and Blackfriars, and this obstacle was not
removed until the end of May, 1870. On the
30th of May the first passenger train passed under
the Embankment to the then terminal station at
Blackfriars, and within six weeks from that date the
carriage-way of the Embankment was formed and
the northern footway paved; and the whole was
thrown open to the public on the 13th of July in
that year. The "opening" ceremony was performed by the Prince of Wales, accompanied by
Her Royal Highness Princess Louise, on behalf of
Her Majesty, after whom this noble thoroughfare
is named.
Following in an even line the general curve of
the river, the Embankment extends from Westminster to Blackfriars Bridge, rising at each end
by a gentle gradient to open upon Bridge Street,
Westminster, opposite the Clock Tower of the
Houses of Parliament, and upon Chatham Place,
Blackfriars, opposite the station of the Metropolitan District Railway. It passes beneath the
Charing Cross Railway Bridge at Hungerford, and
the first arch on the Middlesex side of Waterloo
Bridge. It is about a mile and a quarter in
length, and is 100 feet in width throughout. The
carriage-way is 64 feet wide; the footway on the
land side 16 feet, and that on the river side 20
feet, planted with trees 20 feet apart. On the
river side the footway is bounded by a moulded
granite parapet, 3 feet 6 inches in height, and on
the land side partly by walls and partly by cast-iron
railings.
The wall of the Embankment is a work of extraordinary magnitude and solidity. It is carried
down to a depth of 32½ feet below Trinity highwater mark, and 14 feet below low water; and the
level of the roadway is generally four feet above
high water, rising at the extremities to twenty feet.
The rising ground at each extremity is retained by
the increased height of the wall, which is built
throughout of brick, faced with granite, and founded
in Portland cement concrete. The river front
presents a slightly concave surface, which is plain
from the base to mean high-water level, and is
ornamented above that level by mouldings, stopped
at intervals of about seventy feet by plain blocks
of granite, bearing lamp standards of cast iron,
and relieved on the river-face by bronze lions'
heads, carrying mooring rings. The uniformity of
line is broken at intervals by massive piers of
granite (intended to be surmounted with groups
of statuary), which flank recesses for steamboat
landing-stages; and at other places by stairs projecting into the river, and intended as landingplaces for small craft. The steamboat piers occur
at Westminster, Charing Cross, and Waterloo
Bridges, and those for small boats midway between
Westminster and Charing Cross, and between
Charing Cross and Waterloo Bridges, and both are
united at the Temple Pier, opposite Essex Street.
Within the recesses for the steamboat landingstages are placed admirably-contrived timber platforms, which rise and fall with the tide, and which
carry the lower ends of gangways that are hinged
to the masonry above. The gangways are formed
of two wrought-iron girders, carrying a timber platform; and they move between granite walls parallel
to the general line of the roadway. Upon the platforms there are waiting-rooms for passengers.
On the land side the Embankment is bounded
from Westminster almost to Whitehall Place by
four acres of recovered foreshore that were claimed
by the Crown, but now belong to the City of West
minster. A broad and commodious approach to the
Embankment occurs somewhat to the south-west
of the Hungerford Railway Bridge, opening out of
Whitehall Place. From there to Waterloo Bridge
the Embankment is bounded by a similar foreshore,
amounting to nearly eight acres, and becoming
gradually narrowed from west to east. This portion
is planted as an ornamental garden for the enjoyment of the public. To the east of Waterloo
Bridge is what was once the river front of Somerset
House, all marked and scarred by water, and with
huge mooring rings projecting from the masonry,
but now quite inland. Next comes a space behind
the Temple Railway Station, communicating with
Surrey Street, Norfolk Street, and Arundel Street.
Then another small portion of public ornamental
garden, and then a piece added to the grounds of
the Temple, but upon which the Templars will not
be at liberty to build. Lastly, there is the boundary
wall separating the carriage-way from the City Gas
Works.

WHITEHALL GARDENS, FROM THE RIVER.
To the east of Blackfriars Bridge the line of the
Embankment roadway is prolonged to the Mansion
House, leaving the course of the river, and forming
one grand thoroughfare, known as Queen Victoria
Street, between the Houses of Parliament and the
City. The eastern portion of this thoroughfare,
between Cannon Street and the Mansion House,
was completed and opened for public traffic in
October, 1869.
The total area of the land reclaimed from the
river amounts to 37¼ acres. Of this, nineteen
acres are occupied by the carriage and foot ways,
eight acres are devoted to garden, and the rest
has been conveyed to the Crown, the Templars,
and other proprietors along the line. Within the
Embankment wall, and forming a portion of its
structure, is placed the Low Level Intercepting
Sewer, which is an integral portion of the main
drainage scheme. Above it is a subway for gas
and water pipes, the dimensions of the subway
being 7 feet 6 inches in height and 9 feet in width;
and the diameter of the sewer varying from 7 feet
9 inches to 8 feet 3 inches. These are both situate
under the footway next the river. The footways
are paved with York stone, with granite curb.
To the east of the Temple the roadways are
carried over a double covered way, belonging to
the City Gas Company, and leading to a landingwharf, by which coals can be conveyed from the
river without interference with the public traffic.
At this point, moreover, the subterranean engineer
ing has been of extreme complexity; the sewers,
the Fleet ditch, the subways, the Gas Company's
railroad, the public railway, and a variety of gas,
water, and telegraph pipes, being interlaced in a
way that almost defies description.

UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM. (See pages 334, 335.)
In connection with the steamboat pier at Westminster Bridge a subway has been constructed,
communicating with the subway already existing
under Bridge Street, and affording an underground thoroughfare for foot passengers between
the Houses of Parliament, the railway station, the
steamboat pier, and the footways in Bridge Street
and on the river and land sides of the Embankment.
The Metropolitan District Railway enters the
land reclaimed by the Embankment at the point
between Cannon Row and Westminster Bridge,
and passes under the public road as far as Charing
Cross steamboat pier, where it diverges to the land
side of the roadway to the Charing Cross Station,
the roof of which rises above the surface and is
enclosed by screen walls of brickwork. Immediately
east of the station are three openings for ventilation
of the railway, which, together with the screen
walls, are partially concealed by the mounds and
shrubberies of the ornamental grounds. East of
the openings, the railway is carried in a covered
way under the ornamental grounds as far as the
Waterloo steamboat pier, where it again passes
under the roadway to the Temple Station, and is
thence continued on the land side of the roadway
to within a few feet of Blackfriars Bridge. From
the east end of the Temple Gardens the concrete
wall which retains the earth for the rising approach
road to Chatham Place forms also the side wall of
the railway. The level of the rails is generally
17½ feet below the surface of the road, which is
carried over the railway by cast-iron girders and
brick arches, the upper surface of the arches being
18 inches below the surface of the road.
Mr. Peter Cunningham, writing in 1850, remarks,
"I cannot conclude this too brief account of our
noble river without expressing a wish that the side
sewer and terrace Embankment scheme (so long
ago talked about and first projected by John
Martin, the painter) may be carried out before
many years are over. By narrowing the current,"
he adds, "we shall recover a large quantity of
waste ground on either side, and escape from the
huge unhealthy mud-banks that disfigure the river
about Scotland Yard." What would he have said
had he lived to see the completion of the gigantic
undertaking which forms the subject of the present
chapter?
It is not easy for persons unaccustomed to deal
with such matters to form any clear conception of
great quantities expressed in numerical statements;
but it is, nevertheless, worth while to place on
record the official accounts of the cost of the work,
and of the amount of various kinds of material
employed in its construction. The total cost is
estimated at £1,260,000, and the purchase of
property at £450,000. The quantities of materials
are stated to have been as follows:—Granite,
650,000 cubic feet; brickwork, 80,000 cubic yards;
concrete, 140,000 cubic yards; timber (for cofferdam, &c.), 500,000 cubic feet; caissons (for ditto),
2,500 tons; earth filling, 1,000,000 cubic yards;
excavation, 144,000 cubic yards; York paving,
125,000 superficial feet; broken granite, 50,000
superficial yards.
It is but right that, in describing a work of such
grandeur and national importance as the Thames
Embankment, we should mention the names, not
only of the principal engineer—Sir Joseph W. Bazalgette—to whom, of course, it will be a monument
of enduring fame, but also of those of the contractors and resident engineers; the former were
Messrs. Furness, Ritson, and Webster, and the
latter Messrs. Lovick and Cooper.
The Act of Parliament under which the Metropolitan Board of Works obtained powers for the
formation of new streets in connection with the
Thames Embankment contains in its preamble a
curious reference to the Act of William and Mary
"for the relief of the orphans and other creditors
of the City of London." That piece of legislation
provided for the raising of a fund by the imposition
of a duty on coal and wine; and subsequent enactments have continued the levy, appropriating its
benefit to other requirements of metropolitan improvement. The charges on the fund set apart for
making new approaches to London Bridge having
been satisfied, the residue was by this Act transferred to the purposes of the Thames Embankment. The Embankment, as will be seen, is treble
in its object, as it serves as a most effective and
economic relief to our overcrowded streets by the
formation of a wide thoroughfare; and not only
improves the navigation of the river, but also, at
the same time, has given an opportunity for making
the low-level sewer without disturbing the Strand
or Fleet Street. The importance of the improvement of the river is obvious to all, for not only has
the Embankment added a handsome frontage to
the side of the Thames, which previously had been
a public eyesore, but it has also been the means of
getting rid of the unequal deposits of mud in its
bed, assisting the removal of the scour of the
river, and consequently improving the health of the
inhabitants of London.
It was found difficult for the Metropolitan Board
of Works to raise capital at a less rate of interest
than 4½ per cent. The importance of the work,
however, had been impressed upon the ruling powers
of the Government, and Parliament passed a bill
by which the Board was greatly assisted in the
undertaking.
Although that portion of the Embankment lying
between Westminster and Waterloo Bridges is
perhaps the most picturesque and varied of the
whole line, that between Waterloo and Blackfriars
is by no means wanting in interest and architectural effect. For the first time we have a land view
of Sir W. Chambers' beautiful building, Somerset
House; whilst the neighbouring Temple Gardens,
"blooming in the midst of a nest of lawyers," have
gained some 200 feet in depth, and thus become,
on the whole, a really handsome pleasure-ground.
With this general view of the Victoria Embankment, we will at once proceed to point out and
dilate upon some of the principal buildings and
objects that overlook it.
Close by the west side of the Temple, and near
the bottom of Arundel Street, the offices of the
London School Board attract our attention. The
style of architecture employed is Renaissance of a
somewhat early type. The front is built of Portland stone, with bands of red brick. It has been
attempted to gain effect in this elevation towards
the Embankment rather by pleasing proportion
than by any great elaboration of design. The
building throughout is somewhat simple, but has
a character of some dignity. The board-room
is vaulted, and its walls are panelled with oak.
There is a vestibule in the centre of the building
that lights the staircase and passages, and forms
a convenient waiting-room, &c. The rooms are
lofty and airy. On the ground floor there is
spacious accommodation for the general clerks
and for the works, the school management, the
bye-laws, and finance departments, also rooms
communicating with each other for the chairman
and vice-chairman of the board. On the first floor
are the board-room, the three committee-rooms, and
rooms for the lady members of the board and
the clerk of the board. The board-room, which is
at the rear of the building, is 50 feet long by 29
feet wide and 27 feet high. The second floor is
assigned to the architect's and the statistical departments. There are also rooms on the top floor
for the clerk of sites and the inspectors of furniture
and repairs.
There are some comfortable-looking old houses
between the Temple and Somerset House, breaking
out in bow-windows wherever they can get an
opportunity; but they all "look like the backs of
houses pretending to be front." The north side
of the roadway is occupied very considerably by
the Temple Station of the Metropolitan District
Railway, by the back of which is a roadway
skirting the lower ends of Howard and Norfolk
Streets, thus opening up communication between
the Embankment and the Strand.
We now pass the Thames front of Somerset
House. Of this building we have spoken generally
in a previous chapter. We may, however, add here
that some of the rooms under the noble balustraded
terrace, which for some 600 feet overlook the Embankment, are now set apart as the national depository of wills. These documents, amounting to
some tons in weight, were removed hither from
Doctors' Commons at the end of the year 1874.
Nearly the whole of the southern front of Somerset
House, having been vacated by the Admiralty,
was fitted up for their accommodation, and a range
of spacious apartments some two hundred feet in
length, occupying the interior of the great terrace,
and also a considerable portion of the basement of
Somerset House itself, has been fitted up with
miles of shelving, whereon are stowed away long
rows of folio volumes of formidable dimensions.
The fact that in the new office at Somerset House
there is a depository for the executed wills of living
persons (as, indeed, there was in Doctors' Commons)
must be set down in the category of "things not
generally known." Known, however, or not, it is
true; for any man or woman in the kingdom not
incapacitated from making a will may forthwith
sign, seal, and deliver here, on payment of a fee of
12s. 6d., his or her last will and testament, to be
kept safely and securely until his or her death
makes it operative. While in the custody of the
office it is kept in a fire-proof room, and can never
again be seen by the testator or testatrix. Here
the motto is plain and simple, "Vestigia nulla
retrorsum." It is, however, competent to the
testator to annul it wholly or to vary it in part by
making a fresh will or a codicil; and such fresh
will or codicil he may either deposit at Somerset
House or keep in his own custody. Apropos of
this subject, what reader will not remember the
Mr. Spenlow in "David Copperfield" moralising
on the uncertainty of life and the duty of making
a will, and then next day dying intestate?
As to the antiquity of the documents that have
been brought from Doctors' Commons to Somerset
House, they may be briefly summed up by saying
that the original wills commence with the year
1483, the first of Edward V. The copies date
from just a century earlier, viz., in the reign of
Richard II. The latter are written on parchment,
strongly bound, with brazen clasps. A very small
volume suffices to contain the wills of a year or
even of ten years before the Reformation. As we
come down to more recent times the bulk of the
volumes containing the wills steadily increases with
the wealth and population of London and of the
kingdom. Indeed, from about 1860 down to the
present time the average number of volumes filled
with the wills proved in the Prerogative Court of
London amounts to nearly twenty a year. These
wills themselves annually average, perhaps, 10,000
in the London district alone; while those of the
rest of the kingdom may possibly be reckoned at
17,000 more.
It may be added that among the special curiosities
of this storehouse of ancient documents are some
wills which the nation, and, indeed, the world,
would not willingly allow to perish. With a single
exception, these have been transferred from Doctors'
Commons to Somerset House. Here the visitor,
if properly introduced, may see the will of the
painter Vandyck, of Dr. Johnson, of Lord Nelson,
of William Pitt, of Edmund Burke, of Sir Isaac
Newton, of Inigo Jones, of Izaak Walton, of the
Duke of Wellington, of John Milton, and, above
all, that of William Shakespeare. This, being of
exceptional interest, has been exceptionally treated,
and the three folio pages of which it consists are
placed under an air-tight frame made of polished
oak and plate glass. The will of the great Napoleon
was to be seen for many years at old Doctors'
Commons, but it was restored to the French nation
in 1853, in compliance with the request of the
Emperor Louis Napoleon.
It may, perhaps, be added here that in 1824
there was published a short-lived periodical, somewhat of the nature of the old Tatlers and Spectators,
and partly a precursor of the Pall Mall Gazette and
other light and chatty newspapers of our own
day, called the Somerset House Gazette, edited by
"Ephraim Hardcastle, Esq."—of course, an assumed
name.
Passing on under the northern arch of Waterloo
Bridge we enter upon the pleasantest portion of
the Embankment. Here a considerable portion
of land has been reclaimed from the Thames, the
whole of which, except the roadway, is laid out
as a garden. So high has the ground here been
raised that it has fairly eclipsed Inigo Jones'
water-gate. If this fine water-gate at the foot of
Buckingham Street could only be elevated about
ten feet, and a few of the dirty and grimy buildings
which still stand between it and the centre of the
Strand could be removed, we should be able to
boast that we have the noblest water-side garden
and park of any capital. As it is, we have tasteless
mounds of made earth which are planted with
rhododendrons and other flowering plants, designed
to shut out the mean buildings south of the Savoy
and the Adelphi; but they scarcely effect their
object. But in London, a garden for public use,
however tasteless, is a luxury at which we cannot
afford to grumble.
Following the course of the Embankment, under
the fan-shaped connection of Charing Cross Bridge
with the railway station, we now emerge upon what
may be considered historic ground. Extending
almost in a direct line with that portion of the
Embankment which we have so far traversed, the
broad roadway is continued through into Whitehall
Place. Between this roadway and the railway
station we have just passed is Scotland Yard, the
head-quarters of the metropolitan police, about
which we shall have more to say in the following
chapter; and to the right of this, till its recent
demolition to form a new opening from Charing
Cross to the Embankment, stood Northumberland
House. In the angle of this large tract of ground,
close under the shadow of the railway station,
raised upon a granite pedestal, is a noble bronze
statue of General Sir James Outram.
In January, 1875, it was stated in the Builder
that the conversion of the land in front of the
Thames Embankment running parallel with the
Embankment between Whitehall Place and Whitehall Gardens into an ornamental garden, similar
to that between Hungerford and Waterloo, was
then in active progress, and that the garden would
be shortly opened to the public. That portion of
the land on the west side, in the direction of
Whitehall, which the Crown reserved when the
final arrangement was made with the Metropolitan
Board of Works, has been partitioned off, and the
area immediately in front, consisting of a little
more than three acres, and now under the control
of the Metropolitan Board, was undergoing the
necessary garden transformation. In order effectually to carry out the conversion, and render the
space suitable for ornamental garden purposes, it
was found necessary to bring upon the land a large
quantity of maiden soil and manure, and no less
than 4,000 cubic yards of these materials have
been carted from the neighbourhood of Haverstock
Hill and laid upon the land in the process of
levelling. In carrying out the works the small
plot of land at the north end surrounding the
statue of Sir James Outram, and which had already
been laid out, has been broken up in order to
admit of the entire area being uniformly laid out
and arranged. The several walks and footpaths
have already been formed, with the exception of
the gravelled and asphalte surface, and the drainage
is now in progress. A walk 16 feet in width is
carried the entire length of the ground, both on the
east and west sides, and from these several other
walks are carried across the area at right angles,
while others are circular in form. There are three
circular mounds and two of oblong form, portions
of which will be planted with flowers and shrubs,
and the remaining parts will be turfed over. There
will be four entrances to the gardens, three being
on the Embankment, and the fourth at the northwest angle in Whitehall Place.
Just above Hungerford Bridge, if we had gone
up the river in a steamer twenty years ago, or as
now wending our way along Sir J. W. Bazalgette's
Embankment, we should come upon a green oasis
amid the surrounding streets—we refer to Whitehall
Gardens. "It is," writes Dr. C. Mackay, in 1840,
in his "Thames and its Tributaries," "a fair lawn,
neatly trimmed, and divided into compartments by
little walls. In the rear rises a row of goodly
modern houses, the abodes of ministers and exministers, and 'lords of high degree.' But it is not
so much for what it exhibits as for what it hides
that it is remarkable. Just behind the house with
the bow-windows, inhabited by Sir Robert Peel,
is the spot where Charles the First was beheaded.
In a nook close by, as if purposely hidden from
the view of the world, is a very good statue of a
very bad king. Unknown to the thousands of
London, James the Second rears his brazen head
in a corner, ashamed apparently, even in his effigies,
to affront the eyes of the nation which he misgoverned."
At the junction of the Victoria Embankment
with Bridge Street, close by the foot of Westminster Bridge, and facing the Clock Tower of the
Houses of Parliament, stands the St. Stephen's
Club. It immediately adjoins Westminster Bridge
Railway Station, to which, as well as to the Houses
of Parliament, it has an access under the roadway,
quite protected from wind and rain. The building,
which is constructed of Bath stone, with grey
polished granite columns, occupies a somewhat
irregularly-shaped block of land; and it was erected
in 1874, from the designs of Mr. J. Whichcord,
F.S.A. The club-house, which rises from the
lower basement to the full height of 100 feet, is in
the Classical or Palladian style. The rooms are
lofty and light. The house is well warmed throughout by a new apparatus, the coils of which are
cleverly concealed, and from top to bottom it is
fitted up with electric bells of the newest pattern.
The doors on every floor up to the top are of solid
oak, with large ornamental panels, and the ceilings
are divided into square compartments or panels,
all stained with a light sky-blue colour, which
makes them seem higher than they really are. At
the top of the house is the culinary department—an arrangement by which the smell of the cooking
escapes without entering the club. The attic floor
contains, besides accommodation for servants, a
large kitchen, superintended by a French chef de
cuisine. On the floor next the attics are two billiardrooms, two dining-rooms, with a similar arrangement, and an occasional room for breakfasts, &c.
On the next—in other words, on the first floor—are a smoking-room, a card-room, and a diningroom for members only. On the ground floor the
entrance from the Embankment opens into a lofty
hall paved partially with encaustic tiles and partially with inlaid polished oak, the ceiling supported
by red scagliola columns, and lighted with stainedglass windows. On the left of the entrance-hall
there is a small reception-room for strangers,
leading into the morning-room, a lofty apartment,
lighted by five large windows, looking on the river
and the Houses of Parliament, the ground ceiling
resting on verd antique columns. It forms almost
a cross in its ground plan, and has, we should fancy,
more snug nooks and corners than any other
apartment in London. On the right of the hall is
a large reading and writing room, running from
the front to the back of the house, and destined
to form the club library. To the upper floor
access is gained by a spiral staircase in the Jacobean
style, in plan not unlike the great staircase in the
rear of Devonshire House. The windows of this
staircase look out on the roof of the railway station
below, and, therefore, have been filled with painted
glass, in diaper work, exhibiting the White Rose,
the signs of the zodiac, and other ornaments. The
staircase is so arranged as to be continued down
into the basement, where it leads to the secretary's
office, bath-rooms, lavatories, &c. And as we read
of another place that shall be nameless that "in
the lowest depths there is a lower still," so in
what we may call the basement of the basement
there are wine and beer cellars, and strong rooms
for other stores, and a place for working the hydraulic lift, by which all the provisions are raised
to the top of the house without passing up the
staircase. The curtains, chairs, sofas, and also the
servants are all draped in a "sober livery" of dark
blue and brown, "the dark blue," as remarked by
a writer in the Times, "being symbolical of the
Tory party, while the brown may possibly have
been adopted in compliment to Mr. Disraeli, whose
servants are dressed in livery of that colour."
Let us now turn our steps landward, and investigate the neighbourhood more in detail.