Cowbridge
COWBRIDGE, a borough and market-town
(having exclusive jurisdiction), and, jointly with
Bridgend, the head of a
union, locally in the hundred of Cowbridge, county of Glamorgan, South
Wales, 12 miles (W.) from
Cardiff, and 170 (W.) from
London, on the main western road through the county; containing 1080 inhabitants. The Welsh name
of this place is Pont-Vaen, a corruption of Pont-yVôn, of which latter the English name is a literal
translation. The town is supposed to have been
originally an appendage to the castle and lordship
of St. Quentin; and was surrounded, in 1090, by
Robert St. Quentin, one of Fitz-Hamon's knights,
with a stone wall, having three gates, which in
Leland's time were all entire, but of which only the
south gate now remains. Its situation, though low,
is salubrious, and its appearance prepossessing. The
town consists principally of one spacious street, extending for nearly half a mile along the turnpikeroad; the houses are in general well built, and
several of them are handsome. It is neither paved
nor lighted, but well supplied with water from
springs, and from the small river Ddaw, which passes
through the centre of Cowbridge. The old townhall, shambles, and market-house, which stood in
the centre of the principal street, obstructing the
thoroughfare, have been removed, and the old county
bridewell, situated at this place, has been converted,
chiefly by subscription, into a neat town-hall, with
jury-rooms and other apartments. The market days
are Tuesday and Saturday; the market on the latter
is chiefly for butchers' meat and other provisions.
Fairs, principally for cattle, are held on the first
Tuesday in February, the Tuesday before March
25th, on May 4th, June 24th, and September 29th:
there are also two great markets on the first Tuesdays
in August and December.

SEAL AND ARMS
The government of the town is regulated by a
charter of incorporation, which was confirmed in the
33rd of Charles II., whose charter recites that the
burgesses had enjoyed divers liberties, franchises,
and immunities, as well by means of grants of former
kings of England and lords of Glamorgan as by
prescription, and bestows upon the corporation all
privileges, fairs, tolls, and lands which they then
held, or had previously enjoyed, by virtue of any
charter or by prescription. The control is vested in
the constable of the castle of St. Quentin, two bailiffs,
twelve aldermen, and twelve capital burgesses, assisted by a town-clerk, a treasurer, two serjeants-atmace, two clerks of the market and shambles, and
six constables. Of these, the constable, commonly
called mayor, is appointed by the Stuart family,
Marquesses of Bute. The bailiffs are annually
chosen, on Michaelmas eve, from among the aldermen, of whom four are nominated for that purpose
by the burgesses, out of which number the mayor
selects two; the aldermen are elected from the burgesses, by a majority of their own body, as vacancies
occur. The capital burgesses are elected out of the
body of burgesses, by the bailiffs, aldermen, and
capital burgesses, in their corporate capacity as the
common council and governing body of the borough.
The town-clerk is appointed by the Stuart family,
the treasurer by the common-council, and the remaining officers by the bailiffs.
Cowbridge was formerly one of the eight contributory boroughs within the county, which returned
a member to parliament, the right of election being
in the burgesses at large, in number between seventy
and eighty, of whom about one-half were resident.
It is now, by the act of 1832, for "Amending the
Representation of the People," contributory with Cardiff and Llantrissent in the return of a member; and
the right of election is vested in the old resident
burgesses only, if duly registered according to the
provisions of the act, and in every male person of full
age occupying, either as owner, or as tenant under
the same landlord, a house or other premises of the
annual value of not less than £10, provided he be
capable of registering as the act directs. The present number of houses of this value, situated within
the limits of the borough, which comprise an area of
little more than thirty-three acres, and were not
altered by the late boundary act, is about eighty.
The bailiffs make a return for Cowbridge to the
mayor of Cardiff, who is the returning officer for the
three boroughs.
The freedom is acquired by an apprenticeship of
seven years to a resident freeman, inherited by birth
by all sons of freemen born after their father's admission, or obtained by marriage with a freeman's
daughter, or by gift of the common-council, who
may confer the privilege on whomsoever they please.
All persons who have thus become burgesses, possess
the right of exemption from toll within the borough.
The revenues of the corporation amount to about
£130 per annum, of which about a third is derived
from houses and land, and the remainder from the
tolls of the markets and fairs, with the exception of
an inconsiderable item composed of fines on the admission of freemen. The mayor and bailiffs are justices of the peace, exercising exclusive jurisdiction,
and having, according to the charter, power to inquire
of all "delays, defects, and articles," within the
town, as justices of the peace in England, provided
they do not proceed "to the inquiry, trial, and determination of any treason, misprision of treason,
murder, felony, or any other thing, touching the loss
of life or limb." No general or quarter sessions,
however, seem to have taken place since the year
1812, and even for some time prior to that date they
appear to have been seldom and very irregularly
held. The bailiffs may also hold a court of record
every Thursday in every third week, for the trial of
actions under £5, in as ample a manner as in any
other court of record in England; but this court has
like the other fallen completely into disuse, the last
summoning of it having taken place on the 30th of
August, 1777. Nor are petty-sessions for the borough
regularly held, the magistrates merely assembling
from time to time for the despatch of business as occasion requires. The petty-sessions for the hundred
take place here every Tuesday, and the Easter
quarter-sessions for the county are held here.
Cowbridge is commonly reputed a parish, but, like
many other parishes, has no distinct incumbency:
the church, which was originally a chapel of ease to
the church of Llanblethian, is still served by the
vicar of that parish, who performs morning service
at the one, and evening service at the other, alternately every Sunday. The tithes have been commuted for a rent-charge of £17. 3., payable to the
incumbent. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is
an ancient and venerable structure, and contains
several handsome monuments of modern erection,
and two of more ancient date, one to the memory
of the Carnes, of Nash, and the other to that of the
Jenkins family, of Hensol, near Cowbridge. The
windows and some other parts of the building have
been lately restored. There are places of worship
for Baptists, Wesleyans, and Calvinistic Methodists.
The free grammar school, which is of considerable
repute, is supposed by some to have grown out of the
ruins of an ancient establishment at Lantwit-Major,
and to have been removed to this place in the reign
of Elizabeth. It is under the superintendence of the
Principal and Fellows of Jesus' College, Oxford, who
appoint the master. The endowment was granted
by Sir Leoline Jenkins, Knt, Judge of the Admiralty
in the reign of Charles II., who was educated in the
school, and died in 1685, founding by will in Jesus'
College two fellowships to supply clergymen for the
navy and foreign plantations, two scholarships, and
one exhibition, which are limited to natives of the
dioceses of Llandaf and St. David's, with a preference cæteris paribus for those educated at this
establishment. After devising to the Principal, Fellows, and Scholars, certain lands and tenements, and
also "the free school and school-house," he charged
the property with the payment of £70 per annum,
for the following uses, viz., £20, with the schoolhouse, orchards, &c., to be given to the schoolmaster,
for instructing gratis ten youths of the town and
neighbouring parishes, and five pensioners (now
named monitors), the latter to be paid £6 each for
four years; after that period, three out of the five to
be sent to Jesus' College, and have an exhibition of
£10 each for four succeeding years; and two of
these last to be regarded as scholars on Sir Leoline's
foundation, and to have the preference cæteris paribus
in the selection of the two fellowships he had founded
in the college. For the purpose of carrying the intentions of the benefactor into effect, the college transmits to the master annually £50 for himself and the
monitors; together with £20 assigned by Sir Leoline, for apprenticing poor children born in the
parishes of Llantrissent and Llanblethian, the town
of Cowbridge, and the parish of Ystrad-Owen, or for
clothing aged poor people in the same places. The
two fellowships are now worth about £300 a year,
and the scholarships £20. The five pensions, which
do not appear to be limited to Cowbridge or its
neighbourhood, have been constantly filled up; but
there is only one other free boy: the number of
scholars not on the foundation is considerable. The
school is very flourishing as a classical academy for
pay-scholars, under the superintendence of the Rev.
Hugo Daniel Harper, Fellow of Jesus' College,
assisted by two other masters, and a drawing and
French master. The premises have been recently
rebuilt by the college in a handsome manner and on
a larger scale. Vice-Chancellor Sir J. L. Knight
Bruce, Knt., was educated in this establishment. A
National school, commenced here in 1839, for the
benefit of Cowbridge, Llanblethian, and Llantrissent,
is supported by subscription, aided by the produce of
a bequest of £200 left by John Fraunceis Gwyn,
Esq., of Ford Abbey, Devon, by will dated 1845, to
be invested in the funds, for the use of "the National
school of the three consolidated parishes." There
are also several Sunday schools.
Some charitable benefactions to the town are respectively managed by the corporation, and by the
parochial authorities. Among the former is a grant
of two acres of land, situated south of the East-gate,
devised by Mary Wilcox, and now yielding a rent of
£8. 8. per annum, subject to a small payment for
land-tax and repairs. A rent-charge of £4 on land
called the Paddocks, was devised by Walter Williams
in 1796: this bequest was void under the statute of
Mortmain; but the owner generously purchased
stock in the three per cents., and invested it in the
name of trustees to secure the amount of the gift,
and carry it into execution. The produce of these
two bequests is distributed in small sums, by the
bailiffs, among poor parishioners. Of the charities
under the management of the parochial officers, is a
bequest by Catherine Williams in 1682 of £100, the
interest to be applied to clothe six of the poorest and
most aged parishioners; the amount is in the hands
of the corporation, who pay interest at five per cent.
Rebecca Wyndham bequeathed a similar sum, with
which, and the accumulated interest, a moiety of a
tenement and some land, called Pencoed, in the
parish of Llanilid, was purchased, now yielding £20
per annum, which sum is applied in apprenticing
poor children as directed by the donor. Other sums
arising from trifling rent-charges on houses in different parts of the town, and a charge of 12s. on a
field in the parish of Llanblethian, the gift of William
Thomas in 1710, producing altogether £2. 8. per
annum, are distributed in bread to the poor. Daniel
Jones, Esq., of Beau Prè, in the parish of St. Hilary,
by will dated 1840, gave £10 per annum, the dividends of stock in consols, for the benefit of the poor
of Cowbridge for ever, to be distributed in money, or
in clothing, bedding, or firing, by the minister. The
aged poor, also, of the town, regularly receive £20
in clothing every fourth year from the master of the
grammar school, under Sir Leoline Jenkins' grant
above-mentioned.
Some Roman coins have been discovered at this
place: one, which was of brass, bore the inscription
Cæsar Traianvs; the reverse, Pont Max . . . .
sii; the exergue, Britanni. At the distance of
about two miles, in a field that adjoins the road
from London to Haverfordwest, on the southern
side, and close to the common called the Golden
Mile, is a square intrenched camp of small dimensions, supposed to be Roman; and on the south side
of that common are vestiges of a similar work, both
probably indicating the course of the Roman road
called the Via Julia Maritima.
Coychurch, otherwise Llangrallo
COYCHURCH, otherwise LLANGRALLO,
a parish, in the union of Bridgend and Cowbridge,
hundred of Newcastle, county of Glamorgan,
South Wales, 2½ miles (E.) from Bridgend; comprising the townships of Higher Coychurch, Lower
Coychurch, Pencoed, or the Middle Hamlet, and
Peterston-super-Montem, each of which separately
maintains its own poor; and containing 1251 inhabitants, of whom 308 are in Lower Coychurch. It
derives its Welsh name from St. Grallo, by whom
the church is said to have been founded, and to whom
it is dedicated. This saint was nephew to Iltutus,
the founder of Lantwit-Major, in this county, with
which place a connexion appears to be indicated by
a circular cross in the churchyard, corresponding in
every respect with that at Lantwit, and, from what
is said to have been legible of the inscription, which
is now totally obliterated, most probably erected by
the same persons, viz., Samson the successor of
Iltutus, and Samuel the sculptor. The township of
Lower Coychurch comprises 1090 acres, of which
forty are common or waste. The line of the great
South Wales railway runs through the parish. Leadore has been found here. Out of a rock of magnesian limestone issues a spring, the water of which
forms beautiful incrustations; and there is a cavern
in the parish, in which are fine specimens of bright
calcareous spar.
The living is a rectory, rated in the king's books
at £21. 1. 8.; present net income, £446, with a
glebe-house; patron, the Earl of Dunraven. The
tithes of Lower Coychurch have been commuted for a
rent-charge of £130, with a glebe of 36a. 1r. 10p.,
valued, with the appendages, at £54. 10. per annum.
The church, situated in this township, is a spacious
and venerable structure, much dilapidated. Near it
is a farmhouse, supposed to have been anciently a
religious house subordinate to Ewenny Abbey.
There is a chapel of ease at the hamlet of Peterston; and within the limits of the parish are places of
worship for Independents and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists. Mrs. Elizabeth Davies, who died
in May 1835, bequeathed £800, to be vested in
government securities or used in the purchase of
lands, the interest arising to be annually distributed
among the poor of the three hamlets of Coychurch.
She also left £200 for the maintenance of the Sunday
school at Coychurch, and a similar bequest for the
support of a school at Penprisk. The produce of
the first amount is distributed in sums varying from
2s. to 4s., among such poor as receive no parochial
relief; and from the recent government returns on
the state of education in Wales, two day and Sunday
schools, held respectively at Coychurch and Penprisk, and conducted on Church principles, appear to
be endowed with about £6 a year each. A third
Sunday school, also in connexion with the Established
Church, is held in Peterston chapel; and the dissenters have four Sunday schools in the parish. Another
charity is a rent of £2. 12. payable out of a forge
and small piece of ground, which were purchased
by a bequest left in 1767 by Morgan Thomas, for
the benefit of the poor of the Lower hamlet: this sum
is distributed at Christmas as directed. The Rev.
Thomas Richards, author of a Welsh and English Dictionary, was forty years curate of the parish.
Coychurch (Higher)
COYCHURCH (HIGHER), a township, in
the parish of Coychurch, union of Bridgend and
Cowbridge, hundred of Newcastle, county of
Glamorgan, South Wales, 5 miles (N. E. by E.)
from Bridgend; containing 359 inhabitants. This
township comprises 3910 acres, of which 1067 are
common or waste land. It is bounded on the north
by the river Ewenny, and contains some collieries of
bituminous coal, called the Hîrwaun collieries, situated at the foot of the Cevn-Hîrgoed mountain.
The tithes have been commuted for a rent-charge of
£125.
Coyty, otherwise Coity
COYTY, otherwise COITY, a parish, in the
union of Bridgend and Cowbridge, hundred of
Newcastle, county of Glamorgan, South Wales,
on the eastern bank of the river Ogmore; comprising the Higher hamlet, or manor of Coyty Wallia,
and the Lower hamlet, or manor of Coyty Anglia,
the latter forming part of the market-town of Bridgend, and known also by the name of Oldcastle, from
a fortress anciently situated there: the whole containing 1930 inhabitants, of which number 459 are
in the Higher hamlet, and 1471 in the Lower hamlet.
The lordship of Coyty was conferred by Fitz-Hamon
on Sir Payne de Turberville, one of the knights
who accompanied him in his expedition into Wales,
by whom Coyty Castle, which is considerable even
in its ruins, was taken possession of and completed.
From the family of Turberville it passed into the
possession of Sir Richard Berkrolles, and subsequently to the families of Gamage, Sydney, and
Wyndham. It is at present the property of the Earl
of Dunraven and Mountearl, by marriage with the
daughter and sole heiress of the late Thomas Wyndham, Esq., member for the county of Glamorgan
in several successive parliaments. The hamlet of
Higher Coyty comprises 2911 acres, of which 574
are common or waste.
The living is a rectory, with the chapel of Nolton
annexed, rated in the king's books at £21. 12. 3½.;
patron, the Earl of Dunraven: the tithes of Higher
Coyty have been commuted for a rent-charge of £250,
and those of Lower Coyty for one of £300. The
church, dedicated to St. Mary, has been judiciously
restored, and possesses much architectural interest:
on opening a grave in the chancel, for the interment of the late Dr. Richards, a vault was discovered,
containing the remains of Sir Gilbert Gamage and his
lady. Nolton chapel is situated in the town of
Bridgend, where also are places of worship for dissenters. There is another place of worship for dissenters in the village of Coyty. A National day and
Sunday school is supported in the town; also two
Sunday schools for dissenters: a Sunday school is
held in the parish church at Coyty, and the dissenters
have a Sunday school in the same village. A sum of
15s., arising from three bequests of £5 each for the
benefit of the poor of the Lower hamlet, is distributed at Christmas, among six widows; and a few
other small charities have been lost. Davydd Hopkins, a poet, or Welsh bard, who, in 1700, was admitted to the Gorsedd of Glamorgan, at which he
presided in 1730, was a native of this parish.
Craigioguwlan (Creigiog Uwchlan)
CRAIGIOGUWLAN (CREIGIOG UWCHLAN), a hamlet, in the parish of Llanarmon, union
of Ruthin, hundred of Yale, county of Denbigh,
North Wales, 5¾ miles (S. E. by E.) from Ruthin;
containing 137 inhabitants. The small river Alyn
runs in a northern direction through this hamlet,
which forms the upper portion of the parish, and is
partly bounded on the east by the elevated hills on
the border of Flintshire.
Craigisglàn (Creigiog Îs-Glàn)
CRAIGISGLÀN (CREIGIOG ÎS-GLÀN),
a hamlet, in the parish of Llanarmon, union of
Ruthin, hundred of Yale, county of Denbigh,
North Wales, 4¾ miles (E. S. E.) from Ruthin;
containing 36 inhabitants. This hamlet is situated in
a narrow valley, bounded on one side by the Clwydian
hills, and on the other by the hills on the confines of
Flintshire, the river Alyn flowing near the centre.
There are several respectable residences.
Cray (Crai)
CRAY (CRAI), a chapelry, in the parish and
hundred of Devynock, union and county of Brecknock, South Wales, 9½ miles (W.) from Brecknock; containing 502 inhabitants. It is situated at
the junction of the small river Cray with the Usk,
which latter is here crossed by a bridge. The area
is 6975 acres, of which 700 are common or waste
land. The common of Little Forest, in this chapelry, was anciently attached to the Great Forest of
Brecknock, but on the attainder of the Duke of
Buckingham, as lord of Brecknock, it was separated
from the latter, and granted, by Henry VIII., first
to Lord Seymour of Sudley, Lord High Admiral,
and again, on his attainder, to another favourite,
whose descendants afterwards disposed of it to various
purchasers. The proprietors of this portion of Cray
are exempt from a feudal practice which anciently
prevailed in the parish of Devynock, whereby the
other tenants were obliged to resort to the lord's
mill to have their corn ground, but it is not now so
strictly observed as it was formerly. There are
several respectable residences in the chapelry, more
especially in that part adjoining the vale of the Cray.
The living is a perpetual curacy, endowed with
£1600 royal bounty, and in the patronage of the
Vicar of Devynock; income, £62. The vicar receives £89. 2. 1., being a third of the amount for
which the tithes have been commuted, namely £297.
6. 3.; the other two-thirds are equally divided between the Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, and an
impropriator. The chapel, dedicated to St. Ilid,
and sometimes called the chapel of Llan-Ilid, stands
in the vale, on the eastern declivity of an eminence,
and close to the left bank of the Cray rivulet. There
is a place of worship for Calvinistic Methodists. In
1626, Sir John Davy, the owner of this property,
bequeathed a portion of the tithes, amounting to £40
per annum, for erecting five almshouses and a free
school; and a sum of £12 per annum was devised by
Morgan Watkin, in 1699, for the benefit of the poor.
Some vestiges of ancient barrows are still discernible,
and of carneddau on the adjacent hills.
Cregrina
CREGRINA, in the county of Radnor, South
Wales.—See Caregrina.
Creswell-Quay
CRESWELL-QUAY, a village, situated at the
point of junction of the three parishes of Lawrenny,
Carew, and Jeffreston, in the unions of Pembroke and Narberth, hundred of Narberth,
county of Pembroke, South Wales, 7½ miles
(N. E.) from Pembroke: the population is returned
with the respective parishes. It stands on an estuary
of Milford Haven, and in each of the three parishes
is a small quay for the convenience of shipping the
coal and culm from the mines with which this district
abounds. From 20,000 to 30,000 tons have been
annually shipped for exportation; but the quantity
has of late years much diminished, and at present not
more than 6000 tons are annually shipped from the
place, generally in vessels of thirty or forty tons'
burthen.
Criccieth (Crûgcaith)
CRICCIETH (CRÛGCAITH), a borough and
parish, formerly a market-town, in the union of
Pwllheli, hundred of Eivionydd, Eivionydd division of the county of Carnarvon, North Wales,
5 miles (W. by s.) from Trêmadoc, the post-town, 18
miles (S.) from Carnarvon, and 240 (W. N. W.) from
London; containing 811 inhabitants. This place,
which is of considerable antiquity, is supposed by
some to take its name from the shipwrecks that frequently occurred on this coast, one interpretation of
the Welsh name being "the bitter cry," in allusion
to that circumstance. Others derive the name from
Crûg and Aith, "a pointed hill or mound," in allusion to the rock upon which the castle stands. At
an early period Criccieth belonged to Ednyved Vychan, who was seventy-sixth in descent from Henwyn,
Duke of Cornwall, and an ancestor in the ninth
degree of Henry VII.; he was baron of Brynfanigl,
lord of Criccieth, and chief councillor to Llewelyn
the Great. He acquired an honourable name, possessing much influence among his countrymen, and
is stated to have built a strong fortress here, which,
having fallen into decay, was restored and enlarged
by Edward I. This castle, during the wars between
the Britons and the invading Saxons and Normans,
formed one of the defences of the passage, over the
sands called Traeth-Mawr, from the territory included in the present county of Merioneth into the
country of Snowdon. About the year 1140, Grufydd
ab Llewelyn, having been unjustly made prisoner
by his brother Davydd, who afterwards succeeded to
the sovereignty of North Wales, was imprisoned in it
for a considerable time, and then delivered into the
power of the English monarch, Henry III.
Edward I., having completed the subjugation of
Wales, restored and strongly fortified the castle, appointing William de Leybourn governor or constable,
with a salary of £100 per annum, out of which he
was to maintain thirty stout men (ten of them crossbowmen), a chaplain, a surgeon, a carpenter, and a
mason. Among its later governors was Sir Howel
y Twgall, so called from his bearing the figure of a
pole-axe upon his shield; who, having attended Edward the Black Prince on his continental expeditions,
and meritoriously distinguished himself at the battle
of Poictiers, was knighted by that prince, and appointed to the governorship of the castle, which he
afterwards made his principal residence. The same
prince constituted the town of Criccieth a free
borough, and made the constable of the castle mayor,
granting the burgesses the same privileges as were
enjoyed by those of Rhôs Vair, now Newborough,
or Newburgh, in the county of Anglesey. It is not
known at what time the castle first fell into decay;
but, in the 24th of Henry VIII., orders were issued
to the constable to put it into thorough repair, at the
king's cost; and that monarch, in the 35th year of
his reign, conferred upon the burgesses the right of
participating in the election of a representative for
the borough of Carnarvon, to which the place consequently became a contributory borough.
Criccieth was a short time since only an inconsiderable village of mean appearance, but it has been
much improved of late years, and contains some
handsome houses, which, though much scattered,
present a good appearance. From its contiguity to
the shore of Cardigan bay, the situation is favourable
for commerce; but only a few vessels touch here,
bringing limestone and coal, and there is neither
harbour, nor facility for unloading vessels: only a
few fishing-boats belong to the town. The coast is
very dangerous, and vessels are occasionally lost,
though a pier might be made at a trifling expense,
the promontory projecting into the sea already forming part of a natural basin. The area of the parish
is 1474 acres. The market, which was on Wednesday, has been disused for several centuries; but three
fairs, chiefly for horses and cattle, are held annually
on May 23rd, June 29th, and October 22nd.
The affairs of the CORPORATION are regulated by
a charter granted by Edward I. in the 13th year of
his reign, dated at Cardigan, which bestows certain
liberties at length, and refers to those of the city of
Hereford, giving to the burgesses of Criccieth exemption from toll throughout the whole of England,
and ordaining that the constable of the castle should
be always mayor of the town. This charter was
afterwards confirmed by the crown at various periods,
including the 12th year of Richard II., the time of
Henry V. when Prince of Wales, the 3rd of Henry
VI., and the 9th of Henry VIII. The style of the
corporation is, "the Mayor, Bailiffs, and Burgesses
of the borough of Criccieth, in the county of Carnarvon;" and the government is vested in a mayor,
deputy mayor, two bailiffs, a recorder, and a serjeantat-mace; but the duties annexed to these offices are
of a very trifling description, and the emoluments
consequently insignificant. The office of mayor is
held by William Ormsby Gore, Esq., of Porkington,
in right of his wife, whose family (named Owen)
have for a long period held the hereditary office of
constable of the castle, and whose ancestor, Ievan ab
Meredith, is said to have been mayor in the reign of
Henry IV. The bailiffs are elected annually on
Michaelmas-day by the burgesses, and are in receipt
of some small sums arising from a field containing
about two acres, let for 22s. 6d. a year, and a house
let for 20s.: the recorder, who is appointed during
pleasure, and the serjeant-at-mace, have, like the
mayor, no income. The corporation possess a common of thirty-two acres, and also the castle hill, the
former of which at one time appertained to certain
persons paying quit-rents to the crown in respect of
tenements within the borough, but is now open as
general pasture ground to all who reside within the
liberties, and is of great advantage to the poorer
inhabitants.
Criccieth is one of the boroughs contributory to
Carnarvon, in the return of a member to parliament.
The right of election was formerly in the burgesses
generally, but is now, by the act of 1832, for
"Amending the Representation of the People,"
vested in the old resident burgesses only, if duly
registered according to the provisions of the act, and
in every male person of full age occupying, either as
owner, or as tenant under the same landlord, a house
or other premises of the annual value of £10 and
upwards, provided he be capable of registering as
the act directs. The number of houses of this value,
situated within the limits of the borough, which comprise an area of 470 acres, and were not altered by
the late boundary act, is only fourteen. The freedom is obtained only by gift of the corporation. The
charter empowers the corporation to hold courts of
session for petty offences arising within the borough,
but it does not appear that they have ever exercised
that privilege: they hold a borough court annually,
at which the bailiffs are chosen and the borough
officers sworn in; and they have power to hold a
court of requests for the recovery of debts, but no
court has been held for many years. The county
magistrates used to hold petty-sessions here once a
month, but they are now removed to Trêmadoc.
The LIVING is a discharged rectory, with the perpetual curacies of Trêvlys and Ynyscynhaiarn annexed, rated in the king's books at £13. 8. 11½.;
present net income, £349, with a glebe-house;
patron, the Bishop of Bangor. The tithes of Criccieth
have been commuted for a rent-charge of £129. 18.,
and there is a glebe of about two acres, which, with
the appendages, is valued at £15 per annum. The
church, dedicated to St. Catherine, is a spacious
structure, partly in the later style of English architecture, consisting of a nave, chancel, and south aisle:
in the east window are some portions of stained glass,
and both internally and externally the building exhibits some good details. In this church were buried
Robert Ellis, Groom of the Privy Chamber to
Charles II., and many of the Ellises of Ystumllyn;
also the Rev. David Ellis, A.M., rector of the parish,
who was a celebrated Welsh bard and critic. There
are places of worship for Baptists and Calvinistic
and Wesleyan Methodists. The Rev. David Ellis
gave £200, directing the interest to be appropriated
to the payment of a schoolmaster, to teach all the
poor children of the parishes of Criccieth, Trêvlys,
and Ynyscynhaiarn, to read in the Welsh language,
from Easter to October, yearly; admitting no children but those of regular communicants of the Church
of England. The school is at present held throughout the year, and the children who are admitted, few
in number, are taught English as well as Welsh, in
a cottage rented for the purpose. It has been the
practice to hold the school sometimes in Criccieth, at
other times in Ynyscynhaiarn. The endowment is
secured by a mortgage on a farm in Bottwnog parish,
for which £8 per annum interest is paid to the
master, the remainder of his salary being made up by
subscription, and by fees from some of the scholars.
There is a Sunday school in the town, connected
with the Calvinistic Methodists. Two cottages with
small gardens are in the possession of the parish,
arising from a bequest of £50 by Mrs. Jones, of
Clenneny, with which they were purchased.
The castle occupies the summit of a conical hill
projecting into the sea, and overlooking the northern
expanse of the bay of Cardigan; the rock is precipitous on all sides, and connected with the main land
only by a narrow isthmus, which for greater security
was intersected by a double fosse and vallum. The
remains consist of two round towers, square within,
which guarded or defended the entrance, and are
supposed to have assumed their external form during
the repairs by Edward I., when they were probably
cased with stone; also a gateway; some fragments
of wall, inclosing an area of irregular form; and the
foundations of two square towers. Though a fortress
of much importance from its commanding situation,
it does not appear to have been of very great extent.
There are several old mansions in the parish, including Ystumllyn, formerly the residence of the
Wynnes, descended from Collwyn ab Tango, one of
the fifteen tribes; and Parkia, the residence of the
Anwyls, descended from Owain Gwynedd, Prince of
North Wales.
Crickadarn, or Cerrig-Cadarn (Crûg Cadarn)
CRICKADARN, or CERRIG-CADARN
(CRÛG CADARN), a parish, in the union of
Builth, hundred of Talgarth, county of Brecknock, South Wales, 11½ miles (W. by N.) from
Hay; comprising the North and South divisions,
and containing 441 inhabitants, of whom 236 are in
the North, and 205 in the South division. The name
of this parish signifies "a strong mount," and may
have been derived from the situation of its church
on the summit of a high bank, overlooking the small
river Clettwr, which flows into the Wye at Errwd,
on the road to Builth. The parish comprises 2495
acres, whereof 200 are common or waste land. The
village is situated on the river Wye, by which it is
separated from the county of Radnor; and the high
road from Hereford through Hay to Builth traverses
the eastern part of the parish. The Clettwr, just
above where it is crossed by a small bridge, flows
along a deep winding dingle, the sides of which are
nearly precipitous, and are well clothed with wood
from the margin of the stream to their summit, presenting a strikingly picturesque scene. The living
is a discharged vicarage, consolidated with that of
Llandevalley, together rated in the king's books at
£5, and in the gift of George P. Watkins, Esq. It
was endowed by the will of the Rev. David Williams,
of Stapleford, in Hertfordshire, dated 1712, with the
rectorial tithes of Crickadarn, Llandevalley, and
Bronllŷs, subject to the payment of certain small
charities, and of £25 per annum to the officiating
curate. The tithes of Crickadarn, vicarial and rectorial, have been commuted for a rent-charge of £240.
The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a small edifice, with a massive tower; it contains the ancient
rood-loft, which is of oak, ornamented with carvings
in cinquefoil, and supported on pillars. The registers
of the parish, as well as those of Llandevalley, were
lost in the year 1792. There are places of worship
for Independents and Baptists; a Church school,
established in 1841, and three Sunday schools. One
of the Rev. David Williams' charges on the tithes,
above referred to, is a sum of £2 per annum, to be
distributed among the poor; to whom also, in 1721,
Mrs. Lettice Parry bequeathed a rent-charge on
land, amounting to £1 per annum. In 1581, William
Evans bequeathed a rent-charge of £5. 4., which is
annually distributed in bread; and 12s. in money,
and 12s. worth of bread, are given about Christmas
to the churchwardens, for the poor, by the occupier of
a meadow in the parish, being the benefaction of a
person unknown.
Crickhowel (Crûg-Hywel)
CRICKHOWEL (CRÛG-HYWEL), a market-town and parish, and the head of a union, in the
hundred of Crickhowel, county of Brecknock,
South Wales, on the high road from London to
Milford Haven, 13 miles (S. E.) from Brecknock, and
153 (W. by N.) from London; containing 1257 inhabitants. This place derives its name from an
ancient British fortress, called Crûg Hywel, situated
at the distance of about two miles to the north-northeast of it, and which was of great strength and importance. In the reign of William II., Bernard de
Newmarch, having wrested the province of Brycheiniog (now Brecknock) from Bleddyn, son of Maenyrch, the native sovereign, divided it among the
Norman knights that were associated with him in
the expedition, of whom Sir Humphrey de Bourghil
received a grant of the manor of Crickhowel, to be
holden by the service of one knight's fee, as of the
paramount lordship of Blaenllynvi and Dinas, which
Bernard retained for himself. The manor continued
in the possession of this family for some generations,
and afterwards passed to the Turbervilles, descended
from Sir Payne de Turberville, to whom Robert
Fitz-Hamon had granted the lordship of Coyty, in
Glamorganshire. In 1172, Crickhowel Castle was
stormed, and its garrison made prisoners, by Sitsyllt
ab Ririd, a chieftain of Monmouthshire.
Sir Edmund Turberville is mentioned as lord of
Crickhowel in the latter part of the reign of Richard
I., and in that of King John, whom he is stated to have
served in the wars in France. His grandson, Hugh
de Turberville, adhered to Henry III., in opposition
to the disaffected barons. In the reign of Edward I.,
Sir Hugh, assisted by Sir Grimbald de Pauncefote
and Sir Roger de Bredwardine, raised troops in
Wales for the king's service; to the former of these
knights Sir Hugh gave his daughter Sybil, with his
Brecknock estates, in marriage, and to the latter he
assigned the mesne manor of Gwernvale, and other
estates in Crickhowel. Sir Grimbald, in the fourth
year of that reign, obtained from the king the grant
of a weekly market and an annual fair on the 12th
of May, to be held at this town; and the grant was
confirmed by Henry IV. to his descendant, Sir John
de Pauncefote, with the additional privilege of free
warren within the manor. Henry IV., in 1403,
during the insurrectionary proceedings of Owain
Glyndwr, issued especial orders to Sir John to fortify and defend his castle here against the threatened
attack of that daring chieftain, by whom it was ultimately demolished, with many others in this part of
the country. In the war between the houses of York
and Lancaster, the Pauncefotes were staunch supporters of the latter, and suffered greatly for their
adherence to the cause. Hugh de Pauncefote, in
the 23rd of Henry VI., settled upon that monarch
and his heirs, by indenture, the reversion of this
manor, in failure of issue of his own family; which
ensuing, the name henceforward ceases to occur in
connexion with the place.
From a document among the patent rolls in the
Tower, it appears that the barony of Blaenllynvi and
Dinas, of which this manor was held by tenure of
knight's service, was in the possession, jure uxoris, of
Richard, Duke of York, who had espoused Anne,
sister of Edmund Mortimer, Earl of March, in
whose family it had for some time been vested.
Edward IV., grandson of Duke Richard, and the
lawful inheritor of the estate, soon after his accession
to the throne, granted the manors of Crickhowel and
Trêtower to his friend and favourite, Sir William
Herbert, of Raglan Castle, Knt., whom he afterwards
created Earl of Pembroke, which title, at the request
of the king, was given up, in exchange for the earldom of Huntingdon by Sir William's son and successor. The only daughter and heiress of the lastnamed nobleman, the Lady Elizabeth Herbert, conveyed these estates by marriage to Sir Charles Somerset, Knt., afterwards Earl of Worcester, from whom,
by lineal descent, they have been transmitted to their
present noble owner, the Duke of Beaufort.
The town is beautifully situated on the northeastern bank of the Usk, upon a declivity sloping
gently to the river, over which is a bridge of thirteen
arches of various dimensions, built of dark-coloured
stone, and partially mantled with ivy, the whole
being remarkably picturesque in appearance. It is
irregularly built, but is inhabited by numerous respectable families, and is greatly resorted to, during
the season, by anglers, for trout-fishing in the river
Usk, which also abounds with salmon. The population of the parish has rapidly increased since the census of 1831, and more than 100 houses have been
built. The environs, within a narrow compass, are
strikingly beautiful, presenting a highly pleasing
and luxuriant prospect of a richly cultivated vale,
watered by the Usk, and, together with the sloping
grounds, adorned with numerous elegant seats, genteel residences, farmhouses, and cottages. The line
of the horizon is rendered irregular by the picturesque forms of the surrounding mountains; the vast
Breannog, rising suddenly on the northern side of
the vale, shelters it from the cold winds, and on
the south the bold escarpment of the Darren, overlooking the little village of Llangattock, forms an
agreeable contrast with the cultivated lands beneath.
The steep, but the well-wooded, declivity of Craig
Llanwenarth, descending from the pointed Sugar
Loaf, with the apparently opposite connexion of the
Blorenge mountain, shuts out towards the east the
view of the lower lands of Monmouthshire surrounding Abergavenny: while the verdant Myarth, with
a chain of other eminences, terminates the prospect
to the west.
Crickhowel had formerly two trading companies,
the Clothiers' and the Shoemakers', the wardens and
officers of which had each a handsome pew in the
old church, decorated with their respective emblems
of trade, carved in oak. Dr. Smollett, in his novel
of "Humphrey Clinker," mentions the Crickhowel
flannels; but the manufacture has been entirely discontinued: there is still, however, some business
done in the making of shoes. The neighbouring mountains contain mines of iron-ore and coal,
and there are several tramways connected with the
works. On the banks of the river, at a short distance from the town, are some paper-mills. The
Brecknock and Abergavenny canal passes at the
distance of about a mile, affording a direct communication with Bristol: lime and coal, the produce
of the neighbourhood, together with timber, iron,
and grocery, are the principal articles conveyed
along it. The market is on Thursday; and fairs
are held on February 1st, April 13th, May 12th,
September 24th, and November 6th, of which that
in May is the greatest. The market-house, the
upper part of which is used as the town-hall, is an
incommodious building, inconveniently situated in
the middle of the High-street, adjoining the turnpike-road.
Prior to the union of Wales with England, Crickhowel was one of the marcher territories, subordinate to the paramount lordship of Blaenllynvi, and
was comprehended within the district of the Lower
Ystradwy, or, more properly, Ystrad Iw. On the
abolition of the independent jurisdiction of the lords
marcher, in the 27th of Henry VIII., it was consolidated with the county of Brecknock, and constituted
the head of a hundred. The ancient name of Ystradwy is now lost, except in that part of the parish of
Llanbedr which is called Llanbedr-Ystradwy. The
Norman conquerors of lands in Wales, on introducing the feudal system of tenure, usually conceded to
the natives many of their local customs. With this
view, they had two courts, one called Englischevia,
and the other Welschria; the former comprehending
the freeholders, and the latter the customary tenants
of the manor. The freeholders, for the most part,
held their lands by military, or knight's, service,
though a few were permitted to hold in socage; the
customary tenants were originally the native peasantry of the country, who, having been despoiled
of all real property, were allowed to hold small tenements by certain base services, or personal labour,
for the benefit of the lord. These were at first rendered in kind, but afterwards commuted for money
payments, still known by the name of Cymmorth
rents, or rents in lieu of aid. On divesting the
marcher lordships of their exclusive jurisdiction, and
bringing them under the authority of the common
law of the land, certain privileges were continued to
the proprietors. Thus, the Duke of Beaufort, as
lord of the manor of Crickhowel, appoints a coroner
for the hundred, and holds a court leet twice a year,
and a court baron every three weeks, for the manor.
He also annually appoints a bailiff for the town, which
is a borough by prescription, though the office is now
merely nominal, its duties being confined to collecting the manorial chief-rents. Two aldermen, likewise, were formerly elected for the borough, but this
privilege has not for some time been exercised.
The lords of the manors of Crickhowel and Trêtower
have also claimed and exercised the right of executing,
by their bailiffs, within the limits of these liberties
respectively, all the king's writs, that of Non omittas
alone excepted. The county magistrates hold a
petty-session every Thursday in the town-hall, for
the transaction of business relative to the hundred;
and one of the four small-debt courts in the county
has been fixed in this town, with jurisdiction over the
registration-district of Crickhowel.
The parish comprises about 2000 acres, of which
800 are common or waste land. It is divided into
two hamlets, the borough hamlet and the country
hamlet, each having its churchwarden, but not possessing separate jurisdiction, the assessments being
levied upon the whole. Crickhowel was formerly a
chapelry within the parish of Llangattock, the rectors
of which received one-third of its tithes, but was
made distinct by Lady Sybil de Pauncefote, relict of
Sir Grimbald, by whom the portion of the tithes
above-mentioned was settled on the rector of Crickhowel parish. The living is now a discharged vicarage, rated in the king's books at £3. 17. 8½., endowed
with £200 private benefaction, and £200 royal
bounty, and in the patronage of the rector; net
income, £120. The rectory is a sinecure, rated at
£5. 9. 9½., and in the patronage of the Duke of
Beaufort, as lay impropriator of a certain remaining
portion of the tithes of the parish, which is rated at
£4. 14. 7. The vicar receives two parts, the rector
four parts, and his grace three parts, of the great
and small tithes. The rectorial tithes have been
commuted for a rent-charge of £100. 13., with a
glebe of about two acres, valued at £4. 10. per annum; and the vicarial tithes for one of £50. 6. 6.,
with a glebe of three roods, valued with appendages
at £5 per annum: there is also an allotment for the
sexton, consisting of the clear yearly tenths of certain
lands specified, within the parish. In a terrier of
buildings and lands belonging to the rectory and
vicarage, taken August 1st, 1720, it is stated that
"one vicarage-house, above sixty years ago (i. e.
before 1660) converted into a barn, with one plot of
ground, about a quarter of an acre, and garden
thereunto belonging," were then "in the possession
of Anthony Prichard, vicar." A house erected of
late years on this site, has been enlarged and converted into a parsonage, through the exertions of the
vicar, the Rev. John Evans.
The church, dedicated to St. Edmund the King
and Martyr, was founded and endowed by the munificence of Lady Sybil de Pauncefote, and consecrated in 1303 by David de Sancto Edmundo, Bishop
of St. David's. It was originally much larger than
at present, but having been found upon examination
to be in a very dilapidated condition, a faculty was
obtained in the year 1765, enabling the churchwardens to take down the two aisles, and apply the
materials in repairing the remainder. It was thus
made to consist of a nave, chancel, and two transepts,
with a tower rising from the intersection of the nave
with the transepts, containing five bells, and surmounted by a shingled spire, the only one in the
county. To afford accommodation for the increased
population of the parish, a new aisle was built on the
south side of the nave, in 1830, by voluntary subscription, raised among the inhabitants as an equivalent for pews, aided by a grant from the Incorporated Society for building and enlarging Churches
and Chapels. This additional portion contains 150
sittings, half of which are free, and this is the first
known instance of increased accommodation being
added to a church by the equitable mode of allowing
those who want seats to purchase and annex them in
perpetuity to their houses. More recently, some
judicious restorations have been effected, including
the removal of a low ceiling erected in the nave in
the last century. The south transept, called the
Rumsey Chapel, was formerly a chantry pendant to
the estate of a family of that name in the parish,
though erected and endowed prior to their connexion
with the place: but the exclusive right has long been
forfeited by the owners, from neglect in performing
the necessary repairs. The north transept, called
the Gwernvale Chapel, was also a chantry belonging
to the Gwernvale estate, the proprietor of which still
repairs it, and supports his claim to exclusive possession. The chancel is long, narrow, and much
lower than the remainder of the building: in each of
the side walls are two low arched recesses, probably
intended by the foundress as burial-places for the
family, two of them having been used for that purpose. Within the upper recess on the south, upon a
low altar-tomb, is the mutilated effigy of a knight, in
a recumbent posture, cross-legged, and clad in chain
mail, having a sword hanging from a belt, and upon
the left arm a shield, bearing the device of three
lions rampant, the armorial ensign of the Pauncefotes; the inscription is almost entirely defaced, but
the tomb is probably that of Sir Grimbald de Pauncefote, husband of the foundress. Lady Sybil herself
is supposed to lie interred beneath the opposite arch,
where is a low tomb, supporting a recumbent figure
of a lady, habited in ancient costume. The interments were made from the outside, as appears from
the worked stone facing of the walls at the back of
the arches, the want of which behind the other two
is considered a proof of their never having been occupied. Projecting into the chancel, near the communion-table, is a large and handsome monument of
black and white marble, inclosed by an iron railing,
supporting the well-executed effigy, in alabaster, of
Sir John Herbert, of San-y-Castell, near this town,
who died May 10th, 1666, and his lady Joan, who
died some years after. The knight is represented in
a reclining posture, with flowing hair, clothed in
plate armour, with a truncheon in his right hand, and
a helmet at his feet. His lady, richly habited, is recumbent on a quilted mattress, having the head supported upon an embroidered pillow, with tassels at
the corners, and holding a small book in her hand.
The inscription states that the monument was erected, in 1690, by Elizabeth, wife of Wm. Le Hunt,
serjeant-at-law, son of Sir John Le Hunt, of Middleton, in the county of Warwick, Knt.; and upon
the east end of the monument are sculptured the
figures of a man habited as a serjeant-at-law, the
head broken off, and of a female, both kneeling,
dated 1703, and 1694. In addition to these, are
some neat mural tablets, of minor interest. There
are places of worship in the parish for Calvinistic
Methodists, Wesleyans, and Baptists.
Two day and Sunday schools, one for boys and
the other for girls, are maintained in connexion with
the Church of England. For these, two schoolrooms
were erected on the site of the ancient vicaragehouse, upon the plot of glebe belonging to the vicarage, at the expense of a late vicar, the Rev. George
Jones Bevan, who distinguished himself as the author
of some valuable tracts and essays. This schoolhouse, however, as already observed, has been converted into a parsonage-house, and the schools are
now held in two other rooms built for the purpose.
An infants' school is also supported, and the dissenters have three Sunday schools. John Williams
bequeathed a rent-charge of £3 on land called "Ton
Glebe," one moiety to be paid on the 29th of September, and the other on the 22nd of December, to
two of the most indigent of the poor in the town and
parish. A similar bequest of 15s. per annum for the
benefit of poor widows and orphans, by Jane Edwards, in 1743, was declared void under the provisions of the Mortmain Act. The poor-law union
of which this town is the head, was formed Oct. 6th,
1836, and comprises the ten following parishes and
townships; Crickhowel, Grwyne Vawr, Grwyne Vechan, Llanbedr or Llanbedr-Ystradwy, Llanelly,
Llangattock, Llangeney, Llangynider, Llanvihangel
(or St. Michael) Cwm dû, and Patrishow. It is
under the superintendence of sixteen guardians, and
contains a population of 17,666.
The Castle and its precincts comprised a space of
about eight acres, encompassed by roads, and terminating in a point upon the road to Abergavenny,
on the south-eastern side of the town: the lower
portion of this area is now occupied by houses, erected within the last few years. The structure itself,
with its bailey within the walls, included a surface of
two acres, one rood, and fourteen perches: the remains are small, and destitute of picturesque attraction. The mount, vulgarly called the "Castle
Tump," commands a fine view of the beauties of the
vale both above and below; it was the site of the
keep, or donjon, a lofty square building four stories
high, the vaults of which are, no doubt, still entire
beneath the present mount. About a mile and a half
from the town stood the "baptismal and parochial
chapel" of St. Mary, still known by its Welsh name,
Llanvair, or "Mary-church." That its erection was
of a date long prior to that of the present parochial
church of St. Edmund is certain, from the report of
Giraldus Cambrensis, in the reign of Henry II. He
states that he himself, as archdeacon of Brecknock,
was cited to appear in capellâ Sanctæ Mariæ de Crucohel, to answer certain interrogatories to be proposed
to him by the priors of Llanthony and Brecknock,
respecting a fine imposed upon him, but not paid,
at the suit of the archbishop of Canterbury, with
whom he had been at issue. Having long since
fallen into lay hands, it was used, until within the
last five and thirty years, as a barn; it was then taken
down, and a new farm-building erected upon the spot,
so that the name is now the only vestige of the ancient structure. A neighbouring field, called Cae
Crochenydd, or "the potter's field," is said by tradition to have been the place of interment for strangers who died within the parish. The principal relic
of more remote antiquity situated near Crickhowel
is the fortification of Crûg Howel, or "Howel's
mount," occupying a conspicuous situation upon a
bold knoll of the Breannog mountain, rising to the
north of the town. Leland notices it as Cragus
Hoelinus, and in an old survey of the manor it is
called Cae Crûgiau, or "the mounded inclosure;"
the present English inhabitants call it the Table
Hill. It is of an irregular triangular form, and
slopes gently from the north-western angle, which is
very acute: a rampart of loose stones surrounds the
area, which comprises a space of 1160 feet within
the inner circumference. Towards the vale, the
descent is precipitous; the only entrance being from
the north, whence a steep narrow way, called Cevnfordd, or "the ridgeway," communicates with the
mountain, a bold projection of which, overlooking
the fortress, is called Disgwylva, the "look out," or
"watching-place;" and upon the summit is the beacon, a high conical heap of stones. The great
Roman road denominated by Sir R. C. Hoare the
Via Julia Montana, leading from the celebrated
Silurian station of Caerleon, by the station near
Brecknock, to Maridunum, now Carmarthen, passed
through this parish, by the foot of the Breannog
mountain; and in a field adjoining the old chapel of
Llanvair is a high artificial mound, supposed by some
to have been the site of a Roman arx speculatoria, or
watch-tower. Near Gwernvale stood a fine British
cromlech, which was destroyed not many years ago,
for the purpose of ascertaining what lay beneath it.
In the parish is a maen hîr, or "long stone," and
many more are to be seen in the vicinity, respecting
which there is a variety of opinions, some supposing
them to have been sepulchral, others simply commemorative, and others again the mere boundary
marks of a territory, or district. By the side of the
road leading towards Brecknock stands an old gateway, called Porth Mawr, or the "great gate,"
through the opening of which is a most delightful
prospect of the vale and the river Usk. This relic
has erroneously been regarded as having formed an
appendage to the castle, with which it is stated to
have had a subterraneous communication. It was,
in fact, the entrance to a mansion called Cwrt Carw,
or "Stag's Court," erected in the reign of Henry
VII., by a member of the Herbert family: the old
house, which is said to have been defended by its
owner against a body of the parliamentarian troops
under Cromwell, has long since been demolished.
The estate upon which the gateway is situated is now
the property of Edward William Seymour, Esq.,
who resides there. Not far from the northern road
between Crickhowel and Llanbedr is a stone with a
very early inscription, noticed under the head of
Llangeney.
At the distance of half a mile from the town
stands Gwernvale House, the handsome seat of
John Gwynne, Esq., built about the commencement
of the present century, by Tristram Everest, Esq.
The more ancient mansion of the same name is situated on the hill behind it, and is now the property of
Joseph Bailey, Esq. In old writings this estate is
designated "Moelmore, alias Gwernvald," and the
mesne manor to which it belongs still bears that
name: it is now indiscriminately called Gwernvale,
or Wernvale, a term which the late Archdeacon
Payne ingeniously conjectures to be a corruption of
Tir Wronon Voel, "the land of Wronon the Bald,"
since, from an ancient deed, the place appears to
have belonged in the 11th of Edward II. to Wronon,
surnamed Voel, or "the Bald," and styled Comportionarius Ecclesiæ Beati Edmundi de Crûghoel. In
the year 1668, the estate was purchased by Sir
Henry Proger, Knt., a branch of the Gwernddû
family in Monmouthshire, who, being a staunch
royalist, retired during the usurpation of Cromwell,
with his exiled sovereign into France, accompanied
by his brothers James, Valentine, and Edward, all of
whom served Charles with exemplary fidelity, and
even in some instances with culpable zeal. Henry
and Valentine are reported to have been personally
concerned in the assassination of Ascham, the parliamentarian envoy at the court of Madrid, who was
murdered in the open day at his own house. The
former, after the Restoration, received the honour
of knighthood from the king, who appointed him one
of the gentlemen of the privy chamber: he left one
son, Charles, a lieutenant-colonel in the Foot Guards,
who sold the Gwernvale estate to his uncle, Edward
Proger, of Hampton Court. This latter gentleman
was appointed, early in life, page of honour to
Charles I., and, by the king's command, sworn groom
of the bedchamber to his son, then Prince of Wales,
at Paris. Throughout the rest of that monarch's
reign, his unbounded fidelity to his royal master
sustained no diminution, personally attending him in
all the vicissitudes of his fortune; and the affection
with which the king regarded him, and the estimation in which he was also held by some of the most
distinguished royalists, are evinced by the correspondence that he maintained with them. Several
letters to him from the king himself, from Prince
Rupert, the Duke of Hamilton, the Marquess of
Montrose, Lord Cottington, and others, were, in
their several autographs, in the possession of the late
Archdeacon Payne, who had other curious documents
relating to Mr. Proger, besides an original portrait
of him by Sir Peter Lely, purchased at a sale of property at Gwernvale, in 1789, and a good painting of
his eldest brother, Sir Henry, by Cornelius Jansen.
In the year 1650 he was with the young king in
Scotland, but, with several other noblemen and
private gentlemen, was banished thence by a mandate
of the estates of parliament, "as an evil instrument
and bad counsellor of His Majesty's late father and
himself." Still, however, he retained the good
opinion of the king, who in the same year rewarded
his services by a grant of 2000 acres of land in Virginia; but from this he derived no real benefit, owing
to Charles's inability to enforce the grant, and his
neglecting to confirm it after the Restoration. Lord
Orford informs us that Mr. Proger received permission of the king to erect a house in Bushy Park,
near Hampton Court, of which he had been appointed keeper, on condition that at his death it
should lapse to the crown. After representing this
county in parliament for seventeen years, he at
length declined a contest, and withdrew into retirement, in 1679; and, upon the death of Charles II.,
resigned all public business. He lived for several
years after in depressed circumstances, notwithstanding the services he had rendered to two successive
monarchs; and died at the advanced age of ninetytwo, on the last day of December, 1713. By his
wife Elizabeth he had a numerous offspring, of whom
only three daughters survived: the eldest of these,
named Philippa, upon the partition of property which
took place after his death, obtained the estate of
Gwernvale, which she bequeathed to her husband,
Dr. Samuel Croxal, a man of considerable literary
attainments, and holding good preferment in the
church, who died in 1751, leaving it to a relative,
Mrs. Hester Bailiss, with remainder to her niece,
married to Mr. John Newby, who soon sold it to
Mr. Everest, its late proprietor.
As distinguished residents of Crickhowel may be
noticed the late Rev. Henry Thomas Payne, archdeacon of Carmarthen, &c., a well-known philologist,
antiquary, and topographer; and Sir William Ouseley, the eminent orientalist, who published three large
volumes of travels in the East.