Rivers
AMONG the different advantages which the county of Kent enjoys from its situation, those two noble
rivers, the Thames and the Medway, must not be
forgotten, the former of these flowing by the northern
boundary of it for upwards of forty miles, and the latter taking a navigable course for a much greater
length through the midst of it.
The Thames, the most famous river of this island;
has been already so fully treated of by our historians
in their accounts of London, and the shires through
which it passes before it comes to this county, that it
is needless to repeat again here what they have said
on this subject. Indeed, the various matters relating
to it would fill a volume of themselves, I shall, therefore, content myself with observing some few particulars relating to it, so far as it has connexion with this
county.
Camden has observed, that there is no river in Enrope, in which the tide flows with so long a course as
in the Thames. It flows in it as high as Richmond,
in Surry, which is upwards of sixty miles from the
mouth of it, a circumstance of the greatest benefit to
its navigation, the preserving of its waters sweet and
wholesome, and the increase of the numerous shoals
of fish with which it is filled.
The glorious view of trade, plenty and riches always to be seen on this river, exhibits a constant astonishment to the beholder, and the numerous fleets
of ships so continually crowding their sails on its surface from every part of the globe, afford a sight greatly
beyond what any other river in Europe can shew.
The Thames, having passed London-bridge, flows
on to Deptford, the first boundary of Kent, where it
receives the stream called the Ravensborne. Here
the river is so covered with shipping lying at their
anchors for various purposes of trade, that there remains a space between them barely sufficient for the
passage of others. Besides several private ones, here
is a royal dock, for the building and refitting of the
navy of Great Britain, and the shore, from hence to
Greenwich, is covered with all the opulence and hurry
of trade, carried on by those who are employed either
unloading the various merchandises from the shipping,
or supplying them with fresh stores, and victualling
for their intended voyages.
From Deptford the Thames passes by the royal
hospital and town of Greenwich, and from thence
flows on by Woolwich, where there is a royal dock,
and other buildings and accommodations for the use
of the navy, and an establishment of the office of ordnance for the royal artillery. Having passed this
town it goes on by Erith, where the East-India ships
frequently stop in their passage homewards, to unload
part of their stores; and having received the rivers
Cray and Darent into its bosom near Dartford, it
flows on by Greenhith, where there are large wharfs,
and a ferry for horses and cattle over the river into Essex. Thence it goes on to Northfleet, and by the
large chalk-wharfs there, having first received into it
a small stream which flows under Northfleet bridge,
to the town of Gravesend, a populous place, entirely
supported by the navigation of the Thames.
Just below Gravesend ends the port of London,
from whence the Thames flowing through the road
called the Hope, passes by the hundred of Hoo and
the isle of Graine, at the eastern extremity of which
it meets the waters of the Medway, and being thus
united at the Nore, they flow together into the German ocean.
The river MEDWAY, or Medwege, was named by
the antient Britons Vaga, to which the Saxons added
the syllable mad, signifying in their language, mid, or
middle, because it ran through the middle of the
kingdom of Kent, calling it in their language, Medweg, which word is now modernized to Medway.
This great river has four principal heads, one of
which rises in the manor of Gasson, in the parish of
Blechingley, in the county of Surry, and having received into it several small streams, it runs on to
Eatonbridge, in Kent, and passing by Hever-castle,
runs to Chidingstone, and so flows on to Penshurst,
where it divides into two parts, uniting again at about
three quarters of a mile distance. The Medway is
here increafed, on the southern side, by a second
principal head of it, which rises at Graveley-hill, in
Sussex, and being augmented by other streams in that
county, it enters the county of Kent, and goes on by
Cowden, and thence runs on by Groombridge to
Ashurst, some distance below which it joins the Cowden branch above-mentioned. Thus united, it runs
on, and meets the main river near Penshurst, having
throughout the whole course of it been augmented
by numbers of small streams.
The river Medway flows from hence to Tunbridge,
a little above which it separates into five different
channels, the most northern of which is the principal
and only navigable branch, and in this state it passes
Tunbridge town. Three of these streams again join
the main channel a mile and a half below Tunbridge,
as does the other and most southern in somewhat
more than half a mile below the others; from hence
the Medway flows on to Brand-bridge, and thence to
Twyford-bridge, and so on to Yalding, where it is
joined by a very considerable stream, flowing from
two of its principal heads; one of these, being the
third principal head of this great river, rises at a place
called Hockenbury Panne, in Waterdown-forest, in
the county of Sussex, about a mile from Eredgehouse, near Fant, and runs from thence to Beghamabbey, which having supplied, it flows from thence
to Lamberhurst, and so on to Finchcocks, in Goud-
hurst, where it is met by a rivulet composed of two
streams, one called the Bewle, which comes by Scotney, and gives name to a bridge just above it, called
Bewles-bridge; and the other the Theyse, from its
rising at Teyshurst, in Sussex; after this rivulet has
passed by Finchcocks, it goes on to Broadford, and so
runs on to Marden, and about a mile from Twyford
it separates into two branches, called the Twist, both
of which run into another main branch of the Medway, near Hunton, at about three quarters of a mile
distance from each other. The spring from whence
this last-mentioned branch flows is the fourth principal head of the Medway, and rises near Goldwell,
in Great Chart, from whence it passes on to Romeden, and flowing on by Smarden, it continues its
course towards Hedcorne, and being much increased
by several lesser waters, it flows on to Style-bridge,
soon after which, receiving into it the two streams of
the Twist above-mentioned just beyond Hunton, it
goes to Yalding-bridge, at a small distance below
which it joins the main river as above-mentioned.
From Yalding the river Medway flows on by Nettlested and Watringbury, and passing through Testonbridge runs on by West Farleigh and Barming, and
through those bridges, and so on through East Farleigh-bridge to Tovill, after having been joined by
several small rivulets during its course, one of which,
at about a mile from thence, hides itself under
ground, being covered near half a mile, and then at
the Quarries it rises again, and runs above ground to
Loose,—thence the Medway runs on to Maidstone,
and above the bridge there, on the north side, it receives a rivulet, which rises at Bigon-heath, near Lenham, at a small distance from which this little stream,
having been joined by several brooks on each side,
runs on to Fairborne, and so by Bromfield to Leedscastle, and through the park there, and being in its
way augmented by several brooks, especially from
the north, it passes by the Mote, a small distance below which it supplies the curious manufacture for
paper at the old Turkey-mill, soon after which it joins
the main river just above Maidstone-bridge as abovementioned.
Having passed by Maidstone town, the river Medway flows on by Allington castle, and so on through
Aylesford-bridge, whence it runs on by Boreham, and
so flows on to Woldham and Whornes-place, and being now become a large and spacious river, of great
width and force of water, it passes through Rochester-bridge, and by the towns of Strood, Rochester,
and Chatham, and so on to the royal storehouses and
docks there, and then by Upnor-castle and Gillingham-fort, after which it increases to a great width,
and its waters become very rapid, and so plentiful,
that they form many islands and smaller channels on
each side of it, the river all the while twisting and
winding itself about in continued meanders, and at
the south-west corner of the isle of Graine it passes
the small stream which separates that isle from the
main land, which is called at this end the Dray, and
at the end next the Thames the North Yenlet; opposite to this island the Medway receives into it Stangate-creek, and a little lower the waters of the Swale,
which flow between the island of Shepey and the
main land, and thence it goes on by Blackstakes to
Sheerness, where are the royal docks and storehouses
for the use of the navy, a garrison, and strong fortifications for the defence of this river; after which the
Medway meeting the waters of the Thames at the
Nore, they flow together into the German ocean. The
principal channel of the Medway, from Tunbridge
to Sheerness, runs north-north-east, and the length
of country, from its entrance at Cowden and Eatonbridge to its mouth, is forty-four miles, though by
the circles and meanders this river makes it is many
more. The rivers and brooks that supply it over-
spread a surface of near thirty miles in width, in the
midst of this country and in the Weald, bringing with
their streams fertility, pleasure, and convenience.
The Medway is now made navigable as high as
Tunbridge, which is of great utility to this county
and Sussex, and to the public in general. This navigation was first begun in pursuance of an act of parliament, passed in the 16th and 17th years of king
Charles II. but the undertakers, not finding the
powers of that act sufficient to complete so great a
work, procured another in the 13th of king George II.
anno 1740, by which they are incorporated by the
name of The Proprietors of the Navigation of the River
Medway, and enabled to raise thirty thousand pounds
among themselves to carry on their work, which sum
was to be divided into three hundred shares, of which
no one person was to have more than ten. They
were empowered likewise to employ boats, &c. to
carry goods on the river, and to take toll of others;
and the navigation was exempted from the commission of sewers; in consequence of which the proprietors have laid out great sums of money in deepening
and widening it, and erecting locks and bridges, and
other improvements; insomuch that a safe and constant navigation upon it is now completed from Rochester up to Tunbridge, by which the great quantities of fine timber, which grow in the wealds of
Kent and Sussex, and the iron ordnance, balls, and
other materials of war forged in those parts, which
could not otherwise, by reason of the badness of the
roads, be conveyed to market without an enormous
expence, find an easy carriage in lighters thither; and
wood, corn, grain, hay, hops, wool, leather, and all
manner of provisions, coals, lime, quarry stone, and
all other necessaries and commodities are conveyed on
it at an easy expence, to the great benefit of this
county, and the improvement of trade and commerce
in general; and in 1792, another act passed for im-
proving this river still farther below the town of
Maidstone, through the parishes of Boxley, Allington
and Aylesford.
The traffic on the Medway still increases from the
neighbouring country on each side of it, till it comes
to Maidstone, where it becomes still more considerable by the hoys, which continually fail from thence,
freighted for the supply of the London markets, to
which the several mills for corn, paper, &c. there, and
the great quantity of hop-grounds in those parts, do
not a little contribute. The tide flows up as high as
the lock just above Maidstone-bridge, and is there
stopped by it, before the erecting of which it used
to flow up as high as Farleigh-bridge, and sometimes,
though but very seldom, as far as St. Helen's, in
Barming.
At Rochester-bridge, where the tide of this river
becomes exceeding rapid, foaming with great noise
as it passes through, all the shipping are obliged to
stop, neither the bridge nor the river itself permitting
them to sail higher; and at those towns of Strood,
Rochester, and Chatham, they unload their cargoes,
either for sale there, or to be put into lighters to be
conveyed upwards, towards Maidstone or Tunbridge,
Besides the trade necessarily arising from the country,
and the number of inhabitants with which these towns
are filled, there are at Chatham large and extensive
docks, buildings, and other accommodations for the
use of the royal navy, and departments of the ordnance and victualling offices, several private docks,
and other branches of trade in consequence of them;
all which promote a constant succession of trade, hurry, and business, upon this river.
From Rochester-bridge to Sheerness, which is about
twenty miles, the channel of the river is so deep, the
bed so soft, and the reaches so short, that it is the
best, and indeed the only safe harbour in the kingdom for the larger ships of the royal navy, which ride
here, when they are put out of commission, in great
numbers, as in a wet dock, and being moored at the
chains, which are fixed for that purpose at the bottom
of the river, swing up and down with the tide. Below Chatham there have been several forts erected for
the defence of the royal navy, &c. of which a further
mention will be made hereafter; from whence to the
mouth of it there is little else worth notice, excepting that at the entrance of Stangate-creek, about
three miles above Sheerness, on the south side of this
river, there is a regular quarantine established for all
vessels coming from the Levant and other suspected
places, to prevent their bringing any infection of the
plague into this kingdom; and that at the Swale,
about two miles below this creek, the vessels from
Queenborough, and very frequently from Milton,
Faversham, and those parts of Kent, take their course
into the Medway towards the Thames.
At Sheerness, which is a royal dock likewise, for the
buildings ships of a lesser size, and refitting others
upon a sudden emergency, there is a garrison, and
strong fortifications, to guard the entrance into this
river, mounted with such heavy cannon commanding
the mouth of it, that no fleet of ships whatsoever can
attempt to pass by them without being torn to pieces.
This fort was built by king Charles II. and improved
from time to time to its present state, especially on
the memorable attempt which the Dutch made on
the 10th of June 1667, upon the royal navy in this
river, at which time it was left almost defenceless;
for there were then but four guns that could be used
at Upnor, and scarce so many at Gillingham, and
about twelve guns in the isle of Shepey, where the fort
of Sheerness is now built.
It was during a treaty of peace between the Dutch
and the English, that the former took advantage of
our too great security, and appearing with a great fleet
on our coasts, rode in triumph along them, and ad-
vanced near the mouth of the Thames, and finding no opposition there, they made a bold attempt,
and sailed up the Medway, and soon made themselves
masters of the little fort of Sheerness, though valiantly defended by Sir Edward Spragg. To put a stop
to their farther progress, several vessels were sunk
about the Muscle-bank, the narrowest part of the
river, and a strong chain was put across the channel,
and the lord-general, the duke of Albermarle, came
down thither with a land force to oppose them, but
having the advantage of an easterly wind, and a strong
tide, the Dutch furiously pressed on and broke through
the chain, and fought and burnt the three ships that
lay to guard it, the Matthias, the Unity, and the
Charles V. all three Dutch ships taken in that war,
damaging many other vessels, and taking along with
them the hull of the Royal Charles, which was twice
fired by the English, and as often extinguished by
the enemy. After which they advanced, with fix men
of war and five fire-ships as far as Upnor-castle, and
burnt the Royal Oak, and in effect destroyed the
Loyal London and the Great James, which they left
a great part under water, and after all this insult and
ravage they fell down the river again, with no great
damage to themselves, excepting the loss of their fireships, and the running aground two of their men of
war, which they were forced to set on fire.
This bold attempt of the Dutch gave such an alarm
to the nation of the danger the royal docks and magazines at Chatham, and the British navy itself lay
exposed to, from the defenceless state of the river
Medway, and of the easy access of the enemy to it,
that the little fort at Sheerness was soon afterwards
increased to a regular fortification, with a line of large
and heavy cannon to command the mouth of it. A
fort or platform of guns was likewise raised higher up
in the river, called Cockham-wood; the Swamp and
Gillingham-castle were likewise formed and furnished
with guns, and on the opposite shore, Upnor-castle
was strengthened with a good platform of guns, which
commanded two reaches of the river, above and below it. Besides which, there has always been since,
in time of peace, a man of war, and in other times several more, ready for service, lying at the entrance of
this river, and the Thames at the Nore, to protect
the nation from any sudden insult of the like sort for
the future.
The river Medway is plentifully stored with fish;
above Maidstone there is, in particular, plenty of
carp, perch, tench, pike, dace, chub, roach, and
gudgeons, and about once a year there is a salmon
caught, commonly of about twelve or fourteen pounds
weight; there were formerly great numbers of this
fish in the Medway, several of the manors belonging
to the priory of Rochester being bound to furnish one
or more of them yearly to the monks there, for the
use of their refectory; (fn. 1) and below Rochester there are
taken the finest and largest smelts that can be, soals,
flounders, dabs, thornbacks, maids, &c.
Sturgeon, in former times, used to be so exceedingly plenty in this river, that a duty was paid from
it to the bishop of Rochester, and formed a considerable part of his revenue, as second to the archbishop,
and another to the king; but there has been hardly
any fish of this kind in the river for many years,
which is imputed to the largeness and frequency of
the men of war in it, which, disturbing the fish, have
driven them from it. Indeed once in six or seven
years a fish of this kind is seen up the river, one of
which, in particular, was taken in the Medway, near
Maidstone, in July 1774, which weighed one hundred
and sixty pounds, and was seven feet four inches long.
On the Medway, and in the several creeks and waters belonging to it, within the jurisdiction of the cor-
poration of Rochester there is an oyster fishery, and the
mayor and citizens hold a court once a year, or oftener, if necessary, called the admiralty-court, for regulating this fishery, and to prevent abuses in it, the
jurisdiction and authority of it have been further established and enforced by two acts of parliament,
passed for that purpose, and this fishery is now in a
flourishing condition.
There are six smaller rivers in this county; the Ravensborne, the Cray, the Darent, the Greater and
Lesser Stour, and the Rother. The most western of
these is
The river, called RAVENSBORNE, which rises on
Keston-common, at a litle distance westward from the
antient camp at Halwood-hill in the parish of Keston,
directing its course north-north-west between the
parishes of Hayes and Bromley, and, being augmented
by several small brooks on the eastern side of it, this
stream runs northward, through the eastern bounds
of Beckenham, towards Lewisham, where, at the, hamlet of Southend, it supplies the steel manufactory,
and flowing from thence, at about a quarter of a mile
below Kengeley-bridge, it receives a considerable increase from the western side, from a stream which
rises from several springs in the parish of Beckenham.
Hence it directs its course northward, and at a little
distance from Lewisham-street, having turned a mill,
it crosses the highway leading from Lee to Deptford,
where, having passed the bridge, it receives the Lee
Bourne from the westward, and flows on to Deptford, where it crosses the London-road, having a
handsome stone bridge over it, and then passing due
north empties itself into the Thames, at about a mile's
distance, during which length it is navigable for lighters, and such other like craft, up as high as Deptfordbridge.
The next river is the CRAY, antiently called, by the
Saxons, Crecca, which word signifies a small brook,
or rivulet. This rises at Newell, in the parish of Orpington, and runs from thence almost due north by
St. Mary Cray, Paul's Cray, and Foot's Cray, where
it crosses the high road from Farningham to London,
and having supplied the waters in Foot's Cray-park,
through which its runs, as it does through those of
North Cray-place adjoining, and thence by several other
seats in its way to Bexley, it crosses the road, and passing under a newly-erected brick bridge, it runs by
the late Mr. Thorpe's gardens to those of Hall-place,
and thence passes on to Crayford, and then branches
into two streams, both of which cross the great London road, having bridges over them.
These two streams having supplied two large manufactories for the printing of calicoes, as they cross
the high-road, re-unite, and turn an iron-mill; and
having supplied some whitening grounds, this river
makes several small windings through Crayfordmarshes, and joining the river Darent in Dartfordcreek, on the west side of it, about a mile below
Dartford town, and as much from the Thames, flows
in one united stream into that river, This river is
well stored with trout of the finest flavour, colour,
and size, much beyond what any other water produces
in these parts.
The river DARENT, called also, in the Saxon charters, Tærent, takes its rise above the grounds belonging
to Squirries, in the parish of Westerham, and having
crossed the high road at the end of Westerham-street, it
runs north-east and by east, by Valence to Brasted, soon
after which it separates into two streams, which pass
by Sundridge, where there is a bridge over them,
leading towards Combank, hence they run on to
Chipsted, where the road crosses them on two bridges;
soon after they again unite in one stream, which then
passes on to Riverhead, where the Tunbridge road
crosses it over a bridge, and soon afterwards directs
its course nearly north, and passing by Otford, it runs
by Newhouse to Shoreham, and having passed the
bridge there, it runs on to Lullingstone-park, where
it separates into two streams, forming an island, and
rejoins again at Lullingstone-place, at the back, or
east part of which it continues its course, and so goes
on to Eynsford, where it runs by the old castle there
on to Farningham, and having passed the bridge lately
built there, and crossed the high road, it flows on by
Franks and Horton to South Darent, soon after
which it separates into two streams, the northernmost
of which, being the old river, flows through the village of Darent, the southernmost having passed by
St. John's and Sutton-place, reunites with the other
branch, about a mile or less from their separation.
Hence this river flows by Hawley, and about a mile
farther on, it supplies a gunpowder manufactory, soon
after which it separates into two streams again, which
unite just above the county bridge there, under which
the Darent flows, and soon after supplies the ironmill, a little below which it forms an island, and now,
acquiring the name of Dartford-creek, it receives, on
the west side, the little brook called the Cranford,
which rises at Hawley, somewhat more than a mile
south of Dartford, and hence it flows, with several
turns and windings, for about a mile and a half, when
it receives, on the west side, the Cray, and in about
the same distance more empties itself into the Thames.
The Darent, or Dartford-creek, as it is called, below Dartford town, is navigable for small boats, as
high as the iron-mills above-mentioned, though not
at all tides, the channel of it being of late years much
choaked up with the sulliage, &c. which drives into
it, as it is said, from the above manufactory, insomuch, that it is feared this navigation, so useful to this
town and neighbourhood, will be by this means, before many years are elapsed, entirely destroyed.
The next river is the STOURE, of which name there
are two, at no great distance from each other, dis-
tinguished by the names of the Greater and the Lesser Stoure.
There are several rivers so called in different parts
of England, the name is supposed to be derived from
the British words, Es Dür, (or [To udor]) signifying the
water; hence the city of Canterbury was called Durwhern, and afterwards, in Latin, Durovernum. The
above British name, Es Dür, was afterwards latinized
into Estura, or Sture, and now, by change of language and long custom, it is called and spelt Stoure.
The Greater Stoure has two principal heads, from
which it rises; the first of which is at Well-street, in
Lenham, and at about a mile's distance runs so
strong, as to turn a mill, keeping on its course southeast, thence it runs on through the grounds belonging to Calehill to Ford-mill, near Surrenden; after
which it takes a circle to the east, round Ruttingstreet, and turning Hurst-mill, it runs south-west,
and forms an island; and having united it changes its
course again to south-east; after which it runs on by
Goddington to Bucksford-mill, where it makes again
another small island, and thence to Stone-bridge, having in its way formed several small islands, soon after
which this river is greatly augmented by the stream
which takes its rise above Postling church.
This is the second principal head of the Stoure,
which runs from Postling to Stamford, and from
thence by Westenhanger, after which crossing the
road from Hith to Ashford, a little below Summerfield, it runs on, and having turned Evegate-mill, it
passes on to Mersham-bridge, beyond which it forms
an island near Sevington-court, having in its course
been increased by many smaller waters, it joins the
main stream as above-mentioned.
The Stoure having been thus increased, directs its
course north-east, and passes Ashford-bridge at the east
end of that town, crossing the high road from Hythe
thither, and thence, after receiving several small brooks
into it on each side, it goes on by Spring-grove to
Wye, and having passed the bridge there, and supplied the gardens and grounds at Ollantigh, for which
purpose it is there separated into two channels; this
river flows on in one stream to Godmersham, and
having passed the bridge there, it continues its course
by Chilham, which it leaves not quite half a mile
to the noth-west, and then goes on to Shalmsfordbridge, where it crosses the high road from Ashford
to Canterbury, and thence runs on to Chartham, bending its course eastward, by Horton and Thanington,
after which it separates into two streams, which form
three islands, one above the other, in the second of
which is contained part of the city of Canterbury;
these two streams, in their passage through Canterbury, turn five mills, and again unite a little below
the town. Thence the Stoure, having supplied Barton-mill, passes by Vauxhall, and having crossed the
high road from Canterbury to the isle of Thanet,
under a new built bridge of three arches, it runs on,
in its way to Fordwich-bridge, which having passed,
as well as the town of Fordwich, after having taken
several circles and meanders, it passes Grove-ferry,
where there is a passage over it for carriages, as well
as cattle; and thence it flows on till it arrives at the
isle of Thanet, a mile southward from Sarre.
Near this place, somewhat northward of Stourmouth, the two river Stoures are supposed to have
emptied themselves formerly into the water antiently
called the Wantsume, which separated the isle of Thanet from the main land, now esteemed as part of the
river Stoure. This water was once so considerable as
to afford a good harbour, and a safe and easy passage
for the shipping in their way from Sandwich towards
London, without the danger and inconvenience of
going round the North Foreland.
The Wantsume, a name now almost forgotten, was
formerly supplied as well by the waters of the two ri-
vers Stoure, and other smaller streams, as by the two
distinct tides which, entering it at each end, met each
other at the low point of high lands under Sarre, from
whence they each ebbed back again to their own sea,
at Northmouth and Sandwich-haven.
This water was once, as it is said, in the widest part
of it, near four miles over, but it had by degrees retired so much, that even in the venerable Bede's time,
as he tells us, it was but three furlongs over, and was
usually passable at two places only; these were Sarre
and Stonar, where two ferry-boats were kept for that
purpose. (fn. 2)
The Wantsume had two mouths; one of which
was eastward of Sandwich, and the other at Yenlade,
or Northmouth, near Reculver. It was navigable
throughout, so late as the time of king Henry VIII.
for Twyne, who lived in the latter part of that reign,
tells us, that there were people then living, who had
often seen vessels of good burthen pass to and fro
upon it, where the water was then, especially towards
the west, totally excluded; all which, he adds, happened, because the fresh streams were not sufficient
to check the falt water, that choaked up the channel.
At present, that part of this water which flowed
round the south side of the isle of Thanet (from the
place where the river Stoure arrives at it, about a mile
southward from Sarre, to the mouth of it at Pepperness,) is called the river Stoure, and is deemed a part
of that river; a farther account of which will be given
in its proper place below.
That part of this water, which flowed into the sea
northward of Sarre, at Northmouth, having the supply of the streams from Chislet and that part of the
county, after the above period, directed its course
still northward, but in two separate channels, one of
which continued, as before, into the sea at North-
mouth, and the other found a course more westerly,
through a new channel, into the sea at a place, called
from thence, Newhaven, about a quarter of a mile
eastward from Reculver, and one mile distant from
the other.
The eastermost of these waters last mentioned directs its course northward from Sarre-bridge, below
which, taking the name of the Nethergong, it flows
almost due north into the sea at Coldharbour or
Northmouth-sluice, formerly called the North Yenlade, at about five miles distance from Sarre-bridge.
At a small distance north-west from the place where
a stream from Chislet meets the Nethergong, the
westernmost water branched off from it, though they
have now no communication, a wall of earth, of about
fifteen feet wide, thrown up for the benefit of the
marsh lands, separating them entirely from each
other. By which means this water becomes a dead
head, or pond, at this end; but a little farther, at
Marsh-row, it becomes of a much greater width, and
so flows on northward into the sea at Newhaven.
These waters, especially the Nethergong, are at
most times narrow inconsiderable streams, being continually crossed by wears, gates, &c. set up as well by
the commissioners of sewers, as private persons, for
the convenience of the levels, though in the time of
floods they are both frequently increased to a great
width, and run with vast force and rapidity into the
sea.
After this change in the course of the Wantsume,
there was a space left between the northern and the
southern streams, that is, from Sarre-bridge southward for about a mile, to the place where the river
Stoure arrives at the isle of Thanet, where there was
no water remaining, so that Thanet might from thence
be called rather a peninsula than an island, but for the
benefit of sewing the marshes, an artificial cut, called
the Mile stream, has been made from the Nether-
gong to the Stoure, by which means it was again surrounded with water, and became an island as before.
The Stoure, being come to the isle of Thanet, as
above-mentioned, and having parted with that water,
which runs north-westward by Sarre, just described,
continues its course between the island and the main
land south-eastward, soon after which it receives into
it the stream of the Lesser Stoure.
The river, called the Lesser Stoure, may properly
be said to rise in the grounds belonging to Bournplace, for though it is frequently increased by a temporary water, called the Nailbourn, which, after great
rains or thaws, makes its way from several springs, one
of which is at Eching-street, which seldom fails, even
in the driest summer; another a mile lower, at Liminge, which though it is seldom dry at the well, yet
sometimes does not afford water enough to flow the
space of a mile; the third is at a place called Brompton's-pot, about three miles and and an half lower
than Liminge, and this, in the space between Eleham and Barham, frequently becomes dry, except
when the occasional water or Nailbourn bursts out,
when running over at this spring, it makes a river of
itself, more or less permanent, for several months, as
the spring affords it a supply, and continuing its
course to Barham, it passes near Kingston and by
Charlton-place to Bourn, where falling in with the
head of the Little Stoure, it increases the waters of it
to double their usual size; after which this river having supplied the grounds belonging to Bourn-place,
it passes by Bridge-place, and crossing the great Dover
road, under a bridge of one arch, it directs its course
north-eastward by Bifrons through Patricksborne, and
then running on by the remains of the archbishop's
palace, at Bekesborne, it crosses the road by the vicarage there, and goes on through the grounds of
Old Howlets by Garwinton and Well, after which it
supplies the grounds belonging to Lee-house, and
then crosses the high road from Deal to Canterbury,
under a bridge of two arches, and soon afterwards turns
two corn-mills, whence it runs to Wickham, after
which this river continues its course till it flows into
the Greater Stoure, which it meets in its progress round
the isle of Thanet, as above-mentioned.
The river Stoure continues its course round the isle
of Thanet south-east and by south, and passing by Richborough castle, it flows on to Sandwich, where there
is a bridge over it into the island, and having afforded
a harbour for the shipping there, it takes a circle and
flows almost due north, as it were back again, till it
comes to the salt-works at Stonar, a little distance from
whence, where the land is not more than forty rods
over, a cut has been made for the benefit of sewing the
levels above, for which an act passed in 1776, from this
part of the river to the former part of it a little above
Richborough-castle, the river having flowed from
thence nearly in the shape of an horse-shoe, making a
circuit of about four miles; Sandwich being situated
midway between the two extremes of it. Soon after
the Stoure has passed by Stonar it directs its course
north-east and by east, and soon afterwards empties itself into the British channel by Pepperness.
The trout in both these rivers are remarkably fine,
particularly about Littlebourne in the Lesser Stoure,
and in the Greater Stoure about Chartham. There is
another sort of trout, which frequents the Greater
Stoure, and seems to be of the salmon kind. These
fish come into it from the sea at the latter end of the
summer, and remain in it only three or four months;
they are caught as high up this river as Wye, but
more often between Barton-mill, below Canterbury,
and Fordwich, than in any other part of it. They are
in general of the weight of nine pounds and upwards,
though they are sometimes taken of the weight of
twenty-one pounds, or more. Both these sorts of trout
are of a beautiful red colour when in season.
Below Fordwich, and to the mouth of the river at
Pegwell-bay, there is still a different sort, commonly
called Fordwich trout, though it is supposed this fish
never breeds in the river, but comes from the sea.
They have been much more numerous formerly than
they are at present, owing to the mouth of the river,
where it empties itself into the sea, being so much
narrower and shallower than it used to be, when the
tide ran stronger, and flowed farther up.
These trout are sometimes taken of ten or twelve
pounds weight, and generally upwards of four. They
are sharp-snouted, and their flesh of a yellowish cast.
In the sixth year (fn. 3) of the reign of king Henry VIII.
an act passed for making that part of this river navigable which lies between Canterbury and Fordwich,
so that both lighters and boats might come to each
alike, notwithstanding which nothing appears to have
been done in it. Perhaps this might be owing to the
difference which then subsisted between the archbishop
and the city, which caused him to build at Otford, instead of Canterbury, as he at first designed. However,
in queen Elizabeth's time, Mr. Rose, an alderman of
Canterbury, made an attempt to put the above act in
execution, and render this stream navigable, and besides being a great benefactor and encourager to it in
his life-time, he, by his last will, left three hundred
pounds towards this useful undertaking. The consequence of which was, that for some time there were a
few lighters, and boats that navigated this stream as
high as Canterbury, but now, and for many years since,
there has been no passage for them above Fordwich,
but between that place and Sandwich there is a constant traffic carried on by means of this river, which is
of some, though of no great benefit to the city of Canterbury and its neighbourhood.
The river ROTHER, formerly called Limene, takes its
rise at Gravel-hill, in the parish of Rotherfield, in the
county of Sussex, from whence it runs to Mayfield,
whence it flows on to Itchingham, and then running
near Salehurst and Bodiam, it enters this county in the
parish of Sandhurst; hence the Rother still continues
its course eastward, separating the parishes of Sandhurst and Newenden from Sussex, after which, at Maytham-ferry, leaving its old channel, which formerly
was round the north side of the isle of Oxney, by Apledore, and separating that parish, and those of Rolvenden and Tenterden from that island, the Rother now
takes its course round the opposite, or southern side of
the island, and at the south-east corner it falls into its
old channel again, which comes down from Apledore,
with whose waters it flows down into Rye-harbour, and
thence into the sea.
The channel of this river, which formerly ran round
the north side of this island from Maytham-ferry, as
above-mentioned, by Smallhith, Reading, and Apledore, is now only a small stream, which receives into
it a few brooks on the north side of it, and joins the
Rother at the south-east and west corners of the island.
This channel, in 1736, was become so choaked up
and contracted, that the waters could not find sufficient passage in it, which obliged the proprietors of the
adjoining marsh-land to purchase and cut a new channel through Wittersham level, from Maytham-ferry to
Blackwall, on the southern side of the island, where
this river now runs, as above-mentioned.
Before the time of king Edward I. this river flowed
from Apledore straight on to Romney, where forming
an harbour it emptied itself into the sea, but in that
king's reign, anno 1287, the raging violence of the
sea overflowed this tract, and made great destruction
of the people, cattle, and houses in every part within
it, and entirely drowned Promhill, then a well frequented town, at the same time it so greatly agitated
the channel of the Rother, that the waters of it, forsaking their old course, took a new and nearer passage
from Apledore into the sea at Rye, as they run at present.
It appears, by an inquisition, taken in the beginning
of king Edward III.'s reign, before William Trussell,
the king's escheator, on this side Trent, that the tide
then ebbed and flowed up above Newenden, and so
strong, that the bridge there was broken and demolished by it, and the lands on each side the river were
greatly overflowed, and much damaged by the salt
water. To prevent which there were, from time to
time, several commissions of sewers granted for the
new making, viewing, and repairing the banks on each
side of it, but there were, in consequence of letters patent granted by king Edward III. some new banks
raised, which thwarted this river, and prevented such ships
and boats as used to pass on it with victuals, and other
things, from divers places in Kent and Sussex to Itchingham, and were likewise of the greatest prejudice to
the market town of Salehurst, which had been supported by the course of this water; the king therefore
revoked these letters patent, and commanded those
banks to be demolished.
There are, in different part of this county, besides
the above rivers, several inconsiderable brooks, and
rivulets, which are not worth a particular description
in this place, but each will be mentioned under the
heads of the several parishes where they take their rise.