WALLAND MARSH
IS a large level of marsh-land, part of that which
is in general called Romney Marsh, lying on the other
or western side of the high wall, called the Rhee-wall.
It contains 16,489 acres; the adjoining small level of
Dengemarsh, 2912 acres; and that of Guildford, the
greatest part of it being in Sussex, 3265 acres; being
bounded by the Rhee-wall on the east, the town of
Lid and Dengemarsh on the south, Guildford marsh
and Sussex on the west, and the Apledore channel and
the uplands on the north.
This marsh was never included in any of the rules
and ordinances passed for the safety and preservation
of Romney Marsh, nor was it included within the limits and liberty of the corporation of it, but remained
within the jurisdiction of the justices of Kent. As
there was not any certain law used for the management and defence of it, great inconvenience was continually experienced on that account. To the end,
therefore, that such perils might for the future be prevented, and the common benefit provided for, king
Edward I. in his 16th year, appointed commissioners
to view the same, who ordained, that within the limits in the Marsh, beyond the water course of the
port of Romney, running from Snargate thither on
the west part of it, till it came to Sussex, there should
be jurats established by the commonaltie, to consider
how much might be necessary for the repair and sustentation of the walls and banks, according to the
proportion and value of the number of acres in them
to be maintained, according to the ordinance of
Henry de Bathe. And in future a common bailiff
should be appointed for the purposes mentioned in
that ordinance, provided that at his election, the lords
of the towns in the Marsh within those limits, should
be summoned, if they would be present at it, as also
the jurats and whole commonalty of that marsh; and
that in future the king's common bailiff in the marsh
of Romenale should be supervisor of the before-mentioned bailiffs and jurats in this marsh, and that he
should summon together, to fit places, all the jurats
chosen on both sides the said course, for the preservation of these marshes; notwithstanding any custom
whatsoever, saving always the king's charter granted
to the commonaltie of Romney Marsh, and the ordinance of Henry de Bathe, ever to remain in power
and force.
All these laws and ordinances, as well as the customs, from time to time, relating to Romney Marsh,
were grown at length into such reputation, that king
Henry VI. in his 6th year, at the special instance of
the commons of the realm assembled in parliament,
having considered the great damage and loss which
had so often happened by the excessive rising of the
waters in different parts of the realm, and that much
greater was likely to ensue, if some remedy was not
hastily provided, granted, that several commissions of
sewers, to continue in force for the space of ten years,
should be made to several persons of the nobility, gentry, and others, by the lord chancellor for the time to
come, in all parts of the realm, when it should be
needful, giving them power and direction to make necessary statutes and ordinances for the conservation of
the sea-banks and marshes and parts adjoining, all of
which throughout the realm, should be according to
the laws and customs of Romney Marsh. One of
these commissions of sewers was granted for the level of
Walland Marsh, another for Dengemarsh, with Southbrooks adjoining, and a third for that of Guildford; (fn. 1)
under which, renewed from time to time every ten
years, the preservation of their walls and banks, and
the sewing and drainage of them, still continue to be
regulated and governed.
Walland Marsh extends about four miles in breadth
from east to west, and upwards of five miles in length
from north to south, and contains within its bounds
the towns and parishes of Fairfield, Brookland,
and Midley, and part of those of Apledore, Snargate, Ivechurch, Old and New Romney, and Lid,
the churches of which are situated in other districts.
Although it lies but little lower than Romney Marsh,
yet the west and northern parts of it especially, are,
through the mismanagement and defect of the drainage,
much subject to inundations, and numbers of acres in
it are covered with water for the greatest part of the
year, by which the lands are rendered almost useles;
notwithstanding which, it is in general very rich and
fertile, full as much, if not more so, than any part of
Romney Marsh. Though there are some very large
beasts satted on it in summer, yet the generality of the
cattle on it, especially in winter, are sheep, of the same
sort and size as those in the other marsh. There is
but little land ploughed in it, much less than formerly.
It lies exceedingly open and unsheltered, excepting
about Brookland and Old Romney, where it is tolerably well sheltered with trees. In other particulars
it is much the same as Romney Marsh, already described before.
At the depth of three or four feet under the surface
of the ground, in many places throughout the Marsh,
there have been frequently dug up oak leaves, acorns,
&c. and likewise large trees lying along in different directions, some across each other, some appearing with
the roots to them, as if overturned by a storm or
other convulsion of nature, and others as if cut down
with an ax or sharp instrument, and not with a saw,
being in colour as black and as hard as the wood of
ebony.
In summer, when these levels are all covered with
luxuriant verdure, and filled with the numerous herds
of cattle, they afford the most pleasing and beautiful
appearance to the eye, from the heights of the adjacent
country, which our old poet Drayton very justly dresses
out in his Polyalbion, where he describes the river
Rother enamoured with the beauties of the Marsh.
Appearing to the flood, most bravely like a queen,
Clad all, from head to foot, in gaudy Summer's green;
Which loosely flowing down upon her lusty thighs,
Most strongly seem to tempt the river's amorous eyes.
Her mantle richly wrought with sundry flowers and weeds;
Her moistfull temples bound with wreaths of quivering reeds,
And on her loins a frock, with many a swelling pleat,
Embossed with well spread horse, large sheep and full fed neat.
Some wallowing in the grass, there lye a while to batten;
Some sent away to kill; some thither brought to satten;
With villages amongst, oft powdred here and there;
And (that the same more like to landskip should appear)
With lakes and lesser fords, to mitigate the heat
(In summer, when the fly doth prick the gadding neat,
Forced from the brakes, where late they brouzed the velvet buds)
In which they lick their hides and chew their savoury cuds.