WEST WITTON
Witun (xi cent.); Witton (xii cent.); Wudetun,
Wittuna, West Wytton, West Wythton, Westwithington (xiii cent.); West Witton (xiv cent.).
This parish stretches from the southern bank of
the River Ure up the northern slope of Penhill, and
covers, with Swinithwaite, an area of nearly 3,880
acres. The soil is loam on a subsoil of Carboniferous
Limestone and Yoredale Rocks. There are not quite
80 acres of arable land in the parish, but 2,613 acres
are laid down to permanent grass, (fn. 1) the chief crop
being hay. The whole parish lies at a very considerable height above ordnance datum, rising steadily from
400 ft. near the banks of the Ure to 1,800 ft. on the
heights of Penhill.
The northern part of West Witton lies in Wensleydale, and includes the hamlet of Swinithwaite. Here
stands the chief house in the parish, Swinithwaite
Hall, a fine mansion which is believed to occupy the
site of an ancient capital messuage, (fn. 2) associated in 1465
with one John Burwell, (fn. 3) and said to have been the
home of a branch of the Metcalfe family in the 16th
and 17th centuries. (fn. 4) They were tenants also of
Bechard's land in Swinithwaite, (fn. 5) a holding accounted
for separately in 1485 (fn. 6) and leased to George Metcalfe
in 1610 for forty years. (fn. 7) North-east of Swinithwaite
is Wanlass Park, known as the park of West Witton
in the 13th century, (fn. 8) when it covered 60 acres (fn. 9) and
was stocked with deer. (fn. 10) By 1465 it had acquired
its present name, possibly to distinguish it from the
'new parks,' Capplebank and Penhill. (fn. 11) Christopher
and Ottiwell Metcalfe were parkers of Wanlass in
turn in this century, whilst in the next other Metcalfes
enjoyed its herbage and pannage. (fn. 12) One of them,
Oswald, for some years owner of Temple Dowskar, (fn. 13)
gave his name to Oswald Pasture in the west of the
parish. In the same direction Doveskar Plain and
Dove Skar recall a 13th-century place-name, (fn. 14) afterwards used to describe the whole territory of the
Knights Templars. (fn. 15) Slapehow, one of its early
boundaries, (fn. 16) may possibly have been contiguous to
the Slapestone Wath by the river, near which was
the first dwelling of the brothers. (fn. 17) 'Balshagh under
Penle' and 'Austbalca of Leirhagh,' also landmarks
in 1202, (fn. 18) were probably on higher ground, Leirhagh
being perhaps the present Lairas, near Temple, the
site of the home of the brothers, which lies 'prone
on the lower northern knee of Penhill a short furlong
above Temple Farm.' (fn. 19) Here in 1840 were accidentally discovered the foundations of the walls of
the chapel of our Lady and St. Catherine, with
other remains. (fn. 20)
This was a rectangular building measuring about
52½ ft. by 17½ ft. There was perhaps also a small
chancel, for 21 ft. from the east wall there are traces
on each side of the foundations of a cross wall. In
the south wall, close to the west end, are a few stones
remaining of the jambs of a doorway 3½ ft. in width.
At the east end is a rectangular platform of wrought
stones, now mostly separated, which probably formed
the base of an altar. A short distance to the west of
the altar is a stone 12 in. square with a small square
socket hole. On each side of this, sunk in the
ground, are two small stone coffins, without covers,
the head of each being to the west and the length
inside only 4 ft. 8 in.
In the south wall is a piscina with a shallow shellshaped bowl cut in one large stone which has a slight
moulding on the face. Outside the south wall is a
stone coffin lying loose, the interior measuring 5 ft. 2 in.
There are also here several plain tomb or coffin slabs.
Temple Farm is an early 17th-century building
altered later to the classical style. Above the east
door is an inscription:—
'who so shal com
e to this hous o l
ord do them prote
ct and who doth p
as forth of the sam
e jesv there waye de
rect: p: aim 'a' 1608.'
The fireplace wall of the kitchen is quaintly designed in three bays divided by pilasters with moulded
capitals. The central bay is occupied by the fireplace
itself, and the two bays on either side by a circular
oven and cupboard on the right and a doorway on
the left. At a short distance from Temple Farm
is Temple Cross, a stone built into a wall with a
double cross cut into it. (fn. 21)
The village of West Witton, which consists chiefly
of one long street built on the northern slope of
Penhill, stands high above the river on the Leyburn
and Hawes road, in a situation affording splendid
views of Bolton Castle with its woods and heaths and
the rich valley of Wensleydale beneath. (fn. 22) The ground
on the hill-side above the village, known as 'The
Gill' in 1823, (fn. 23) is a beautiful glen with winding
woodland paths and a beck falling in a series of small
cascades. (fn. 24) In the church of St. Bartholomew, which
stands in the middle of the village to the north of
the street, is a monument to John James, a Yorkshire
antiquary of some note and member of a family long
resident in West Witton. (fn. 25) The belief at one time
prevalent that West Witton was part of Wensley
parish (fn. 26) is said to have arisen from the fact that the
churchyard was too rocky for interment and that the
parishioners of West Witton buried their dead at
Wensley until in about 1780 soil was brought to
their own churchyard and the site consecrated. (fn. 27)
There is a Wesleyan chapel in the village dating
from 1842, (fn. 28) and in 1823 West Witton had its
Roman Catholic chapel and resident priest. (fn. 29) The
house called Chantry was licensed as a place of meeting
for Quakers in 1720. (fn. 30) On higher ground than the
farm-house of Chantry lie Witton Moor and Penhill
Park, both inclosed in 1779, when the former contained 1,300, the latter 300 acres. (fn. 31) Penhill Park is
first mentioned in 1465. (fn. 32) A moiety of this park
was leased by the Crown to Ralph Croft in 1539. (fn. 33)
Penhill, the 13th-century Penle, (fn. 34) 'counted the hiest
hill of Richemontshire' in the 16th century, when
Leland wrote of 'the ruine of a castlet or pill in the
toppe,' (fn. 35) was surmounted by the beacon fired at the
coming of the Armada. (fn. 36) One of the many old
quarries of the parish is in its vicinity. In the 17th
century wool-dyeing flourished here, in connexion
with which trade tokens were issued in 1667. (fn. 37)
Butter tubs were also made here in considerable
numbers before 1681, when a great quantity of wood
provided for their manufacture was destroyed by fire. (fn. 38)
In 1612 the inhabitants of West Witton were presented at quarter sessions for failing to set up butts
for archery, (fn. 39) probably at Gunnery Plain, near Oswald
Pastures, which is said to have been used in former
times for sports and races. (fn. 40) A village feast is still
held on St. Bartholomew's Day and several days
after, ending with an ancient ceremony in which an
effigy of the saint is burnt. (fn. 41)
Among place-names are Stanegatehede, newly
inclosed in 1485, Stanegatelee (of the 15th century). (fn. 42)
Capplebank Park lay in the east of the parish, where
it has given its name to a farm, plantation and beck.
Manors
WEST WITTON, assessed at 5 carucates, was a berewick of the manor of
East Witton (q.v.) in 1086, (fn. 43) but seems
to have been afterwards considered part of the lordship of Middleham. (fn. 44)
It is possible that the first sub-tenants were members
of the family of Acharis, lord of Ravensworth (q.v.)
and founder of Jervaulx Abbey in East Witton, (fn. 45)
whose grandson William son of Hervey held half a
knight's fee in West Witton. (fn. 46)
In 1201 Robert de Tateshall, (fn. 47) in return for a
quitclaim of all other rights here, granted a carucate
in West Witton, formerly held by William son of
Hervey, to William's brother Gilbert as a tenth of a
knight's fee. (fn. 48)
From the second Robert West Witton descended
through his son of the same name to his grandson the
fourth Robert de Tateshall, (fn. 49) lord in 1257. (fn. 50) At
Robert's death in 1273 West Witton passed to his son,
another Robert de Tateshall, (fn. 51) who was succeeded in
1298 by his son Robert, (fn. 52) who died about four years
later, leaving a son, Robert de Tateshall, a minor at his
death in 1305 or 1306. (fn. 53) In the partition of his
lands between the descendants of his great-grandfather (fn. 54) West Witton fell to the share of Robert's
great-aunt Joan de Driby, who was in possession in
1316 and 1325. (fn. 55) It came afterwards to John de
Orby, grandson and heir of her younger sister Isabel, (fn. 56)
who was born and baptized here in 1319 and died
seised of the manor in 1354. (fn. 57) Margaret his widow
held West Witton until 1369, her heir then being
her granddaughter Mary, (fn. 58) daughter of her only
child Joan, second wife of Henry Percy. (fn. 59) Mary,
in 1382 wife of John Lord Roos of Hamlake, (fn. 60) died
childless and a widow in 1394, (fn. 61) and West Witton
reverted to her stepbrother (fn. 62) Henry Percy Earl of
Northumberland. Henry, his grandson and heir of
the same name, (fn. 63) granted it to Ralph Nevill Earl of
Westmorland before 1417. (fn. 64) It followed thenceforward the descent of Middleham (q.v.), with which it
came to the Crown. (fn. 65) In 1628
the manor was still Crown
property. (fn. 66) Thomas Sudell
was lord in 1695–6, (fn. 67) when
Florence Sudell, widow, had
interest here, and in 1723. (fn. 68)
Thomas may have been succeeded before 1734 by William
Sudell 'of Wanlas Park.' (fn. 69)
Francis and William Sudell
had an interest here in 1769, (fn. 70)
and seven years later the manor
of West Witton was settled
in tail-male on Francis Sudell by Martin Hopkins
and his wife Elizabeth with contingent remainder to
the heirs of Elizabeth. (fn. 71) In 1776 and 1779 the
manor was held by Marmaduke Bowes and his wife
Margery as the inheritance of Margery. (fn. 72) It came
afterwards to the Chaytors of Spennithorne and was
sold by the trustees of Sir William Chaytor in 1853
to the third Lord Bolton, (fn. 73) whose son and heir, the
present Lord Bolton, is now lord of the manor. (fn. 74)
Sudell. Nine pieces azure and or with four bezants in the quarters.
The Templars. Argent a cross gules and a chief sable.
The Hospitallers, Gules a cross argent.
TEMPLE DOWSKAR (Duvesker, xiii cent.;
Temple Dousker, xvi cent.; Temple Dowsker alias
Temple, xvii cent.).—In 1185 3 carucates in demesne
on Penhill were held by the Knights Templars of the
gift of William son of Hervey, (fn. 75) who seems fourteen
years later to have been concerned in a suit between
Robert de Tateshall and the master of the order touching this land. (fn. 76) Under an agreement of 1202 Robert
surrendered to the Templars the whole tenement they
had received from his predecessor William son of
Hervey, and added 50 acres between their house and
the Ure, besides 24 acres stretching from the cemetery
of the brothers to the end of the vill of Swinithwaite. (fn. 77)
After the suppression of the order their lands here
came to the Knights Hospitallers, (fn. 78) and were held
by the Preceptory of Mount St. John until its
dissolution, (fn. 79) when they were leased to Thomas and
Roger Spence. (fn. 80) In 1552 Edward VI granted 'the
manor of Temple Dowskar' to Lord Clinton. (fn. 81)
Lord Clinton perhaps conveyed his rights to William
Robinson, Alderman of York, who thirty years later
sold Temple Dowskar to Oswald Metcalfe of Hornby
Castle, declaring that he himself was 'sole and lawful
owner.' (fn. 82) In 1586 and 1592 Oswald was lord, (fn. 83) but
Temple Dowskar had reverted to the Crown by 1602,
when Elizabeth granted it to Richard and Francis
Threakston. (fn. 84) Richard with his wife Eleanor and
John Robinson, possibly the alderman's son, and his
wife Mary sold Temple Dowskar the following year to
Anthony Atkinson. (fn. 85) A later Anthony Atkinson held
it with Elizabeth Atkinson, widow, in 1687, (fn. 86) and in
1710 the lord was again one Anthony Atkinson. (fn. 87)
Thirteen years afterwards a rent of £4 payable out of
tenements in Temple Dowskar was sold by Richard
and Thomas Bellasis to Lord Fauconberg, (fn. 88) and the
property is said to have passed through various hands
until its purchase in 1849 by James Pilkington, (fn. 89)
whose son-in-law, Sir George Augustus Pilkington, is
the present owner. (fn. 90)
Some land in the hamlet of SWINITHWAITE
(Synnygthwait, xv cent.) belonged to the Knights
Templars, (fn. 91) but the greater part seems to have been
included in the manor of West Witton. (fn. 92) In the
early part of the last century, however, it belonged
to the Anderson family, (fn. 93) and since 1849 it has been
held with Temple Dowskar. (fn. 94)
A small property of the annual value of £2 13s. 4d.,
which had belonged to the abbey of Jervaulx, (fn. 95) was
rated in 1557 for Christopher Askewe. (fn. 96)
Free warren in his demesne lands of Witton was
granted to Robert de Tateshall and his heirs in 1257. (fn. 97)
In 1417 free chase in his lands of West Witton and
Penhill was granted to Ralph Earl of Westmorland, (fn. 98)
and free warren is mentioned as late as 1769. (fn. 99)
One of two water-mills belonging to West Witton
Manor in 1298 (fn. 100) had disappeared before 1465 (fn. 101) ;
the water-mill then mentioned remained an appurtenance until 1723. (fn. 102) Temple Dowskar also had its
water-mill in 1592 and 1602. (fn. 103)
The capital messuage of West Witton Manor
mentioned in 1298 (fn. 104) seems to have existed until the
close of the 15th century. (fn. 105) At that time there was
also one in Swinithwaite, (fn. 106) and probably another in
Temple Dowskar. (fn. 107)
In 1610 mines and quarries were excepted from
a grant to George Metcalfe. (fn. 108) A lead mine and coal
mine belonged to West Witton Manor in 1695–6, (fn. 109)
mines and quarries in 1776 and 1777. (fn. 110) At the
beginning of the 18th century the
Duke of Bolton also owned coal and
lead mines here. (fn. 111) View of frankpledge was held at the West Witton
court in 1610 and some subsequent
years. (fn. 112)
Church
The church of ST.
BARTHOLOMEW
consists of a chancel
measuring internally 34 ft. by 16 ft.,
north vestry, nave 42 ft. by 17 ft. 3 in.,
north aisle 9 ft. 6 in. wide, west
tower 6 ft. 9 in. by 6 ft. 1 in. and
south porch.
The whole edifice has been almost
entirely rebuilt. The windows of
the chancel and the chancel arch are
modern. On the north side an archway opens to the organ chamber and
a doorway leads into the vestry.
The nave has a modern arcade of
three bays on the north side, and on
the south three two-light cinquefoiled
modern windows and a south doorway. The north aisle is lighted by
three square-headed windows of two
cinquefoiled lights, and the organ
chamber by one of a single light.
The tower is in one stage without
string-courses or buttresses and dates
probably from the 16th century;
there is an embattled parapet with
pinnacles at the angles, and the bell
chamber windows, which are squareheaded and have labels, are of two long trefoiled
lights. The tower arch is plain and pointed, and the
west window has two uncusped pointed lights within
a square head and an external label.
The walling of the aisle is of old rubble; high up
at the west end is a blocked window. The rest of
the church is modern, and is built of coursed rubble
without buttresses. The porch is also modern and
contains a moulded pointed doorway of which some
jamb stones are old.
The bells in the tower are three in number, all
modern, but in the church is one inscribed in Lombardic characters 'a b c d e f g,' and one of very
early shape with no date or inscription.
The plate consists of two cups of 1662 presented by
Christopher Norton, 1677, and two thick flat patens
of the same date, a modern silver flagon and two pewter
flagons.
The registers begin in 1578.
West Witton Church from the West
Advowson
The earliest mention of the church,
variously described as church, chapel
or free chapel, (fn. 113) seems to occur in
1281, when Robert de Tateshall held the manor and
advowson. (fn. 114) The church and manor descended together until 1325, when the former was granted by Joan
de Tateshall, widow of Robert de Driby, to Sir Geoffrey
le Scrope of Masham, to whose son Henry it was
quitclaimed in 1383 by Sir John Roos and his wife. (fn. 115)
The advowson descended with the manor of Masham
(q.v.) until 1456. (fn. 116) At some later date it came into
the possession of the Abbot of Jervaulx, licence being
granted for its appropriation in 1472. (fn. 117) After the
Dissolution the history of the advowson seems to be
identical with that of the rectory, which James Metcalfe had held in 1535. (fn. 118) The rectory was leased for
terms of twenty-one years in 1538, (fn. 119) 1554, 1571, (fn. 120)
1594, (fn. 121) 1603, (fn. 122) and in 1604. (fn. 123) In 1609 the rectory
of West Witton was sold by the Crown to Francis
Morice and Francis Phillips, (fn. 124) who probably sold it
to Emmanuel Lord Scrope of Bolton, Earl of Sunderland. It followed the descent of the manor of Castle
Bolton (q.v.) until the present day, (fn. 125) Lord Bolton
being now patron. (fn. 126)
The invocation of the church of West Witton,
unknown in 1840, (fn. 127) is now of St. Bartholomew. (fn. 128)
In 1535 there was a manse with glebe, (fn. 129) but there
was no house in 1840. (fn. 130)
A chantry here was founded according to 16thcentury tradition by William Harby, who gave
Jervaulx Abbey lands and stock for finding a chaplain
to say mass thrice a week. The house and land were
purchased by 'H. Askwith' at the Dissolution. (fn. 131)
Charities
By a scheme of the Charity Commissioners dated 1 June 1897 the
following charities are administered
under the title of the United Charities, namely:—
William Atkinson's alias the Poor's Land, being
6 a. at Carlton in Coverdale, let at £16 a year.
The Doles Charity, consisting of five several rentcharges issuing out of certain lands in the parish,
amounting together to £1 15s. 8d. a year.
Charity of Charles Robinson, will, 1790; endowment, £396 16s. 2d. consols with the official
trustees.
The parochial school, consisting of a messuage and
buildings, formerly used as a school, built on waste land.
By the scheme as varied by an order of 9 September 1904, made under the Board of Education
Act, 1899, the charities are applicable as follows:—
the rent, when let, of the parochial school; the
dividends on £327 9s. 1d. consols, part of the aforesaid sum of consols, amounting to £8 3s. 8d., for
educational purposes in West Witton; the dividends
on £40 consols, other part of said stock, being £1
a year, for educational purposes in the township
of Newbiggin in Aysgarth. The dividends on
£29 7s. 1d. consols, balance of the said stock,
amounting to 14s. 8d., to be paid to the vicar of
West Witton on condition of his reading service and
preaching two sermons upon 30 January and 29 May
in every year, in accordance with the terms of the
codicil to the will of the said Charles Robinson.
The rent of William Atkinson's charity is applicable
in apprenticing, prizes and exhibitions, and the charity
known as the Doles for the general benefit of the poor.
The Wesleyan chapel, founded by deed 1842, is
regulated by a scheme of the Charity Commissioners,
1874.