TURKDEAN
Turkdean is a rural parish lying beside the
Foss way 17 km. east of Cheltenham and 3 km.
north of Northleach. It has the name given by
the 8th century to the deep valley that is a
prominent feature of the surrounding landscape; (fn. 1) the first part of the name is possibly
from the Celtic word twrch meaning 'boar'. (fn. 2)
The parish's area is 2,178 a. (881 ha.) and
includes a limb on the north-west where it takes
in land west of the Turkdean valley. The southeastern boundary with its straight lines mostly
observes the original route of the Foss way, (fn. 3) running SW.-NE. and bending slightly half way
along its length before dropping down into
Broadwater bottom, and the almost straight southern boundary is the line of an ancient track.
From Broadwater bottom the northern boundary, following the southern boundary of an estate
in Notgrove and Cold Aston described in an
Anglo-Saxon survey, (fn. 4) ascends a valley formed
by one of the headwaters of the Sherborne brook
for some distance before climbing onto higher
ground to the west and turning northwards to
descend into the Turkdean valley. The main part
of the western boundary follows the floor of the
Turkdean valley and the line of an old road that
ran south-westwards out of it. (fn. 5) The village, in
the centre of the parish, comprises Upper and
Lower Turkdean, which were taxed separately in
the 14th century (fn. 6) and originated as separate
manors.
On the west the Turkdean valley turns from
its southwards course to run eastwards across
the centre of the parish and in the eastern corner
it meets other valleys of the Sherborne brook's
headwaters, including that marking the north
boundary, to form Broadwater bottom. From
the Turkdean valley, the floor of which descends
from 167 m. in the north to 152 m. in the east,
the land rises steeply and the highest places, at
over 230 m., are in the north, the far north-west,
and the south-west. In the north-east the land
falls towards the valley on the boundary and in
the south it ascends to 200 m. at the Foss way
and includes the top part of a valley with its
head at Leygore. While the valley bottoms are
mostly on Midford Sand, most of the parish is
formed by the Inferior Oolite with a band of
fuller's earth separating it from the overlying
Great Oolite of the highest ground. (fn. 7) Springs
issuing from the fuller's earth determined the
location of early buildings, including the main
part of the village. (fn. 8) The principal spring on
Chalk hill, in the north on the east side of the
Turkdean valley, feeds a stone-lined culvert
probably associated with Roman settlement that
lasted on the hillside until at least the 4th century. (fn. 9) The spring, known as Chalk well long
before 1614, (fn. 10) provided water for much of the
parish from the early 20th century and continued to supply some outlying houses after
the advent of mains water to the village in the
1950s. (fn. 11)
Before parliamentary inclosure in 1793 the
wolds in Turkdean were given over to large open
fields and commons. There were meadows in the
valley bottoms, and stone slots beside the stream
in the centre of the parish in 1999 attested postinclosure management of water meadows in the
Turkdean valley. (fn. 12) Turkdean had little if any
woodland at inclosure, but the Turkdean valley
had long included withy beds, and in the centre
of the parish it was known as Withy bottom. (fn. 13)
In the later 19th century woodland was confined
mainly to a covert at Milkwell in the far northwest and several small coppices strung out along
the bottom of the Turkdean valley in the
centre. (fn. 14) The area of woodland, given in 1905 as
34 a., (fn. 15) increased in the early 20th century. Some
of the new woods and coverts were near the village (fn. 16) and some were in the south at Leygore, (fn. 17)
where the landowner A. E. Moss (d. 1943) and
his wife are buried in a grave in a belt of woodland he planted along the east side of the
Northleach road. (fn. 18) In 1986 the area of woodland
in Turkdean was at least 73 ha. (180 a.). (fn. 19)
In 1086 twenty-five tenants were recorded in
Turkdean, twenty of them on the estate at
Upper Turkdean. (fn. 20) Seventeen inhabitants of
Upper Turkdean and seven of Lower Turkdean
were assessed for tax in 1327 (fn. 21) and at least thirtyone people in Upper Turkdean and twenty-two
in Lower Turkdean were assessed for the poll
tax in 1381. (fn. 22) The number of communicants in
the parish was put at c. 68 in 1551 (fn. 23) and 84 in
1603; (fn. 24) the number of households or families
was given as 14 in 1563 (fn. 25) and 22 in 1650. (fn. 26) The
population, estimated c. 1710 at 120, (fn. 27) was
reckoned c. 1775 to be 113 (fn. 28) and it rose between
1801 and 1821 from 143 to 228. The number of
inhabitants continued to rise in the mid 19th
century but it fell considerably in the late 19th
century, from 337 in 1871 to 145 in 1901. The
decline continued less dramatically and in 1991
the population was 100. (fn. 29)
Upper Turkdean, the main part of the village,
stands above a steep bank forming the east side
of the Turkdean valley and is reached along several old roads. That from the north, described
in the mid 18th century as a way from Evesham
(Worcs.), (fn. 30) runs high above the valley before
descending the bank on a curving route through
the upper part of the village and an avenue of
beeches to continue towards Northleach. Where
it enters the parish from Notgrove that road was
part of a way to Cirencester in the early 17th
century. (fn. 31) The Cirencester way, which bypassed
the village by following a route south-westwards
down Kite hill into the Turkdean valley and
along the line of the parish boundary out of the
valley, was visible in 1765 (fn. 32) but its course seems
to have disappeared a few years later. (fn. 33) A road
leading to the top of the village from Cold Aston
was once known on the north side of the parish
as Mill way, (fn. 34) one of several routes, including
Chalkwell way, recorded in Turkdean in 1614. (fn. 35)
In the late 20th century the way from Cold
Aston was a farm track and footpath and a road
from Hazleton, to the west, to the top of the
village had also long ceased to be a thoroughfare.
High up in the south-western corner of the
parish, Coxwell's Ash was a landmark on the
road to Hampnett in 1777. (fn. 36)
The ancient route on Turkdean's southern
boundary presumably ceased to be an important
through road long before the mid 18th century
although its western end was part of a London
road that diverged from it on a south-easterly
course across Hampnett. (fn. 37) In 1999 parts of the
ancient route, including the western end, survived as wide green lanes and the section east of
the Turkdean-Northleach road remained a road
to Farmington. The Foss way, to the south-east
of Turkdean, was turnpiked from 1755 (fn. 38) to 1877 (fn. 39)
and it remained the principal route touching the
parish in 1999. The section climbing the south
side of the Leygore valley, where, as specified at
inclosure in 1793, it turned on an oblique
course, (fn. 40) was diverted in 1964 to take a straight
and steeper line along the parish boundary. (fn. 41)
The village's two parts have remained distinct
settlements. Upper Turkdean, high on the side
of the Turkdean valley close to several springs,
includes the parish church and it has probably
always been the larger settlement. It contained
c. 16 houses in 1765 (fn. 42) and c. 30 in 1851. (fn. 43) Most
of the houses form a fairly regular village street,
which rises eastwards from the town well, so
called by 1672. (fn. 44) Another spring, some way to
the north, was known in 1793 as Gratton spring
and was reached along Grathorne or Gratton
Lane, recorded from 1640 and running from the
west end of the street to the old Hazleton road. (fn. 45)
The church, standing a short distance south of
the street, was possibly built before the early
12th century. (fn. 46) Immediately to its south are the
former rectory buildings (Rectory Farm) and,
on their south-west, the former vicarage house
(the Glebe House); in the late 18th century those
buildings had a water supply brought from
Gratton spring by a culvert. (fn. 47) West of the
church, and on the other side of the lane to the
rectory and vicarage buildings, a house belonging to the Humphris family in the mid 18th
century (fn. 48) was by 1826 the site of several cottages; (fn. 49) they were abandoned in the early 20th
century and demolished. (fn. 50)
Although some of the houses recorded from
the mid 18th century have been demolished and
not replaced, (fn. 51) the village street retains several
former farmhouses and cottages dating from
the 17th and 18th centuries. One house
(Rosemullion), opposite the churchyard, has an
18th-century front with plain mullions and
another (Draper's House), higher up and south
of the street, bears a datestone of 1780. North
of the street a small two-bayed farmhouse with
a central stack and staircase (the eastern bay
being an addition) dates from the 17th century
and has a 19th-century west wing. The house,
the ownership of which passed to the vicar at
inclosure in 1793, (fn. 52) was used later as a labourer's
cottage and a farm store and under W. A. Rixon,
who bought it in 1908, (fn. 53) it was a farmhouse once
again. (fn. 54) In the later 20th century it became a
private dwelling (the Bakehouse) and, in the mid
1980s, a barn and other outbuildings were converted as houses. (fn. 55) To the east a plot of land,
which at inclosure in 1793 became the property
ex officio of the parish clerk, (fn. 56) accommodated a
cottage and garden but was derelict long before
1910 when it was sold to Rixon. (fn. 57) Higher up to
the north-east the top of the village centres on
a small green, on the north side of which there
was once a pound. (fn. 58) On the east side, south of
the former Cold Aston road, Turkdean Manor
is a 16th-century manor house which served as
a farmhouse before W. A. Rixon converted it as
a country house in the early 20th century. The
house's outbuildings include substantial former
farm buildings. (fn. 59) West of the green an area once
the site of a house (fn. 60) has remained a farmyard
with buildings dating from the 19th and 20th
centuries, among them a stable range built by
Rixon in 1909; (fn. 61) some of its older buildings had
thatched roofs until the mid 20th century. (fn. 62)
North of the entrance to the Cold Aston road is
a pair of 19th-century farm cottages and beyond
them the village was extended northwards in
1952 by the construction of three pairs of council
houses in gabled Cotswold style. (fn. 63)
In the later 20th century (fn. 64) only one new
house, a bungalow, was built in Upper
Turkdean. Of the older cottages a few were
demolished and most of the others were
enlarged, the additions usually having gabled
dormers after the local traditional style. In one
or two cases cottages were amalgamated to form
larger dwellings; a derelict cottage at the rear of
Rosemullion was restored as the back wing of
the house in 1968. (fn. 65) At the bottom of Upper
Turkdean the former village schoolroom, south
of the street, has been converted as a house and
it retains its bellcot. Next to it a small house
(Wright's Cottage) that was enlarged and raised
in the late 20th century incorporates a datestone
of 1821 that was evidently once part of a building belonging to the Humphris family. (fn. 66)
Lower Turkdean, sometimes called Lower
Dean, is situated to the south-west in the
Turkdean valley. It includes a few houses in the
lee of the steep bank or slope forming the valley's east side and strung out along a road running south-eastwards to join the road from
Upper Turkdean to Northleach. Lower Dean
Manor, a 16th-century manor house on the site
of an earlier house, (fn. 67) stands slightly higher up
on the valley's west side. Two men assessed for
tax in Lower Turkdean in 1327 took their surname (atte Clive) from the bank. (fn. 68) Some buildings in Lower Dean in the late 18th century have
been demolished and the only new house built
since the inclosure of 1793 (fn. 69) is an early 19thcentury cottage on the bottom of the bank next
to the bridleway leading directly down from
Upper Turkdean. In the early 17th century one
of the farmhouses there was called Fyfield
House. (fn. 70) In the mid 19th century perhaps 20
dwellings, including the manor house, stood in
Lower Dean (fn. 71) but by the mid 20th century there
were below the manor house only four houses, (fn. 72)
all substantially enlarged and given landscaped
gardens by 1999. The Old House, which incorporates a small 17th-century cottage extended
early by several bays, was once three separate
dwellings. (fn. 73) Willowbank (formerly Elmbrook),
at the south-east end of the settlement, also dates
from the 17th century and was once several cottages. (fn. 74) The Grey House, on the south-west side
of the road, dates from a rebuilding in 1816 of
a farmhouse on a small estate owned by the
Humphris family; (fn. 75) for a time called Blanche's
Farm after the surname of the tenant in the
1820s, (fn. 76) it was altered in the early 20th century. (fn. 77)
Willowbank and the Grey House were, in 1932
and 1937 respectively, remodelled in Cotswold
style as gentleman's residences on A. E. Moss's
estate by Raymond Erith, who also designed a
summer house as part of a new garden at
Willowbank. (fn. 78)
The oldest outlying buildings in Turkdean are
two barns built by Edmund Waller when the
parish was inclosed: Castle (formerly Coxwell's)
barn (fn. 79) high up in the south-west near the
Hampnett road is dated 1793 and Chalkhill barn
on the east side of the Turkdean valley in the
north-west 1794. (fn. 80) A pair of cottages was built
at Castle barn in 1832 (fn. 81) and the eastern cottage
was given gabled dormers when it was extended
in the 1950s to serve as a farmhouse. (fn. 82) A pair of
cottages standing at Smith's (formerly Hill)
barn in the east of the parish in 1851 (fn. 83) had been
abandoned by 1948. (fn. 84)
At Leygore, in the south-east, a farmhouse
was built soon after the inclosure and was
enlarged in the 19th century and again in the
early 20th to form a country house called
Leygore Manor. (fn. 85) To the west, on the
Northleach road, is a pair of cottages built by
1841. (fn. 86) Some way north-west of Leygore a barn
set back from the road (fn. 87) was converted as four
cottages known in the 1880s as Newtown; (fn. 88)
using stone from Leygore Manor, the back-toback cottages were remodelled in the later 20th
century as a single dwelling known as Blanche
House. (fn. 89)
Although several houses in the village are
reputed locally once to have been public houses
there is no evidence that Turkdean ever had a
licensed public house. After the closure of its
school in the mid 20th century the village was
without a public meeting place, and in the late
20th century, when its secluded position made
it a favoured retreat for several rich people, village and parish activities benefited from their
financial support. (fn. 90) Among earlier landowners,
W. A. Rixon (d. 1948) (fn. 91) painted landscapes and
scenes in and around Turkdean. (fn. 92) A cricket team
founded by 1905 had its ground in the south of
the parish near the Foss way, where A. E. Moss
placed a former tramcar as its pavilion. (fn. 93) During
the Second World War the ground was covered
temporarily with huts and shelters for an airfield
in the neighbouring part of Hampnett. (fn. 94)
Manors and Other Estates.
An
estate in Turkdean held in 1066 by Siward
passed, together with an estate in Little
Rissington, to Robert Doyley. (fn. 95) Robert, who
allegedly married the daughter of Wigod of
Wallingford, (fn. 96) included two thirds of the
demesne tithes of both estates in the endowment
of the church of St. George founded in Oxford
castle in 1074 (fn. 97) and retained both estates in
1086. (fn. 98) Later Turkdean, like Little Rissington,
was regarded as part of the honor of
Wallingford, (fn. 99) with which Robert had been connected, and after 1540 Wallingford formed part
of the honor of Ewelme, (fn. 100) which thereby
acquired lordship over part of Turkdean. (fn. 101)
In the early 12th century Ralph Basset, the
justiciar, held Turkdean and Little Rissington
and he gave the churches there to his son Ralph,
a clerk. (fn. 102) Both estates were among the knights'
fees Nicholas Basset held from the honor of
Wallingford in 1166. (fn. 103) Nicholas's sons forfeited
his possessions to Henry II, (fn. 104) who in 1173 or
1174 granted William son of Henry an estate in
Turkdean (fn. 105) later held from the honor for ½
knight's fee. William was succeeded c. 1202 by
his son Robert of Torigni. (fn. 106) Robert acknowledged the ½ knight's fee to be the right of Henry
of Theydon and Robert of Brightwell, both of
them apparently grandsons of Nicholas Basset, (fn. 107)
and by 1224 they had granted him half of the
estate to hold from them for ¼ knight's fee. (fn. 108) In
1232 Henry's son Paulinus of Theydon reserved
the services of Robert of Brightwell and William
of Torigni and sold the rest of the estate, the
part that Henry's widow Juliana had held in
dower, to Oseney abbey (Oxon.). (fn. 109) Paulinus's
mesne lordship passed, as did the manor of
Little Rissington, to Robert de Briwes (d. 1276)
and after him to Robert Burnell (d. 1292),
bishop of Bath and Wells, (fn. 110) under whom three
estates, including that of Oseney abbey, made
up the ½ knight's fee, in Upper Turkdean, in
1285. (fn. 111) Philip Burnell was the mesne lord at his
death in 1294, (fn. 112) but the mesne lordship was not
recorded later and in 1300 the three estates were
held directly of the honor of Wallingford. (fn. 113)
Robert of Torigni's estate passed to his son
William by 1232 (fn. 114) and William retained land in
Turkdean c. 1246. (fn. 115) The later descent of the
estate is not known but it may have been
acquired by Maud of Palton (or Paulton), who
was assessed for a share of the ½ knight's fee in
Upper Turkdean in 1285 and 1300. (fn. 116) Maud's
estate passed by 1303 to John of Palton (fn. 117) and he
or another John of Palton was named among the
lords of Turkdean in 1316, (fn. 118) was taxed along
with Roger of Palton in Upper Turkdean in
1327, (fn. 119) and was assessed for a share of the ½
knight's fee in 1346. (fn. 120) The estate seems to have
passed, with Croscombe manor (Som.) after
1360, from John of Palton to his son Robert (fn. 121)
(fl. 1385) (fn. 122) and it was known as the manor of
TURKDEAN in 1405 when Robert's widow
Elizabeth granted it with Croscombe and other
Somerset manors to his son and heir William of
Palton. (fn. 123)
The Turkdean manor was possibly that which
Westbury-on-Trym college acquired before
1509 (fn. 124) and held of the honor of Wallingford for
a rent of 3s. 4d. (fn. 125) In 1544 Henry VIII granted
the college's possessions to Sir Ralph Sadler. (fn. 126)
Sir Ralph, later Chancellor of the Duchy of
Lancaster, (fn. 127) conveyed the Turkdean manor to
William Howse (fn. 128) and he sold it soon afterwards,
in 1585 or 1586, to William Bannister. (fn. 129) William
(d. 1604) was succeeded by his son Thomas, (fn. 130)
who acquired more land in Turkdean and at his
death in 1633 was succeeded by his brother
Richard. (fn. 131) At Richard's death without issue c.
1640 the manor passed to his nephew William
Bannister, and after William's death in 1685 his
widow Jane evidently held it for several years
before it passed to his eldest son William, (fn. 132) the
lord of Hazleton manor, (fn. 133) who became a judge
and a baron of the Exchequer and was knighted
in 1713. (fn. 134) Sir William died in 1721 and trustees
acting for his daughters and coheirs Jane and
Elizabeth, respectively the wives of John
Hamilton and Richard Harcourt, (fn. 135) sold the
Turkdean and Hazleton manors in 1725 to
Edmund Waller of Beaconsfield (Bucks.). (fn. 136)
Edmund (d. 1771) was succeeded by his son
Edmund (d. 1788), (fn. 137) whose son and heir Edmund
acquired an estate in Lower Turkdean c. 1790
and sold much of his Turkdean land to Thomas
Willan in 1799. (fn. 138) The rest of Edmund's land was
retained by the Waller family with its
Farmington estate. (fn. 139) In 1900 William Noel
Waller sold a farm in Turkdean and Hazleton
to John Ewen McPherson (fn. 140) and in 1902 the
manor house and other land in Turkdean were
acquired by William Augustus Rixon. (fn. 141) Rixon,
who in the next ten years bought much of the
rest of Turkdean, (fn. 142) died in 1948 (fn. 143) and his executors sold most of his Turkdean Manor estate of
over 1,500 a. (fn. 144) to a family trust established under
the will of W. H. Milne. (fn. 145) Soon afterwards the
manor house passed into separate ownership,
changing hands several times in the later 20th
century, (fn. 146) and Manor farm was sold in 1958 to
Mr. Wilfred Mustoe. The other farms were sold
off after 1958, and Mr. Mustoe, who purchased
Castle farm in 1972, owned c. 283 ha. (700 a.)
in 1999. (fn. 147)
Turkdean Manor is built of dressed limestone
and has two storeys with attics and an irregular
plan. William Bannister probably began it soon
after buying the manor in 1585 or 1586; his
name and the date 1588 are inscribed on a timber
door frame (in 1999 ex situ). The earliest fabric
is probably at the north angle but by the mid
17th century the house seems to have been
remodelled on a U-shaped plan, open to the
south-west and with a gabled three-bayed,
two-and-a-half-storeyed south-east front. (fn. 148) The
front has three- and four-light windows with
hollow-chamfered mullions and originally with
transoms; the windows in the lower storeys have
hoodmoulds and those in the gables are under
string courses. The south-east range contains
two rooms, the larger of which has a plain classical chimneypiece. In 1672 the house contained
seven hearths. (fn. 149)
In the early 19th century, when the house was
a farmhouse, there were also two projecting
ranges on the north-east side but in the mid 19th
century the areas between the projecting ranges
on both sides were mostly infilled; (fn. 150) the new
building on the south-west side accommodated
an entrance hall. In 1905, when W. A. Rixon
extensively remodelled the house as a country
house, the more southerly projection on the
north-east side was demolished and there was
much refenestration; many of the rainwater
heads bear the initials of Rixon and his wife
Lady (Julia) Bolton. Rixon's alterations also
included a single-storeyed addition north-west
of the entrance hall; the entrance hall contained
a staircase with a Tijou-style balustrade. (fn. 151)
Between 1948 and 1966 the single-storeyed
service wing on the north-east side was enlarged slightly, (fn. 152) and before 1997 a south-west
porch and a north-east conservatory were
added. (fn. 153) As part of extensive alterations in 1999
beams, fireplaces, and other fittings were
imported, the conservatory was rebuilt in
Gothic style, and an outbuilding to the northeast, used before 1948 as a studio and garden
room, (fn. 154) was converted as a dining hall with an
imported late-medieval roof of West Country
type, said to have been removed in 1937 from a
house in Bradford-on-Avon (Wilts.). (fn. 155) The
former farmyard, north of the house, has along
its boundary good-quality stone buildings, most
of which were converted for domestic use in
1999; one cattle shed is dated 1828. Wroughtiron gates erected in the early 20th century at a
south-west entrance on the village street have
been moved to a different position. (fn. 156)
Oseney abbey held that part of Paulinus of
Theydon's estate it acquired in 1232 from the
honor of Wallingford by the service of 1/8 knight's
fee and 2s. rent; (fn. 157) that part of the estate was later
described as a quarter of Turkdean. (fn. 158) The
abbey, whose estate included land that Robert
le Bel of Stow-on-the-Wold had held by military
service by the grant of Robert of Torigni, (fn. 159)
appropriated Turkdean church and merged its
land with Turkdean rectory, the history of
which is given below.
In 1236 John of Brightwell, Robert of
Brightwell's son, gave Robert's estate in
Turkdean to his sister Maud and her husband
Geoffrey of Langley (fn. 160) and in 1241 he gave them
3 yardlands there that the abbess of Godstow
(Oxon.) had quitclaimed to him. (fn. 161) Geoffrey died
in 1274 (fn. 162) and the land passed to Maud's son
Robert of Langley, (fn. 163) who had by 1280 been succeeded by his half brother Geoffrey of Langley. (fn. 164)
After Geoffrey's death in 1297 his son and heir
Edmund of Langley (d. 1316) released his
TURKDEAN estate, described as a manor, to
his mother Emme in dower. (fn. 165) Emme married
John Sevare of Gloucester and, despite her
apparent intention in 1299 to return possession
of the manor to Edmund, (fn. 166) John retained it in
1303. (fn. 167) In 1316 Lawrence Sevare was recorded
among the lords of Turkdean (fn. 168) and in 1321
Henry Sevare, John's brother and heir, granted
an estate in Turkdean to Richard of Foxcote. In
1363 John of Foxcote had land in Turkdean and
in 1374 John Compton, rector of Stratton, gave
it, together with John's lands in Duntisbourne
Rouse and Withington, to John Serjeant of
Cirencester. John Serjeant granted the Turkdean
estate to John Cosyn, who in 1384 granted it to
Thomas Raleigh. (fn. 169) Thomas (d. 1396 or 1397)
was succeeded by his son Thomas (fn. 170) (d. 1404),
whose son and heir William (fn. 171) died still a minor
in 1419. The Turkdean estate passed with
Edgeworth manor to William's sister Joan, wife
of Gerard Braybrook and later of Edward
Bromflete. (fn. 172) In 1423 Reginald Grey and his wife
Joan held the Turkdean estate, apparently by
title derived from Joan and Edward Bromflete,
and by 1432 John Langley, a direct descendant
of Edmund of Langley (d. 1316), had recovered
it from the Greys as part of his inheritance. (fn. 173)
At his death in 1458 John Langley left the
Turkdean manor, together with Chesterton
manor, in Cirencester, and other of his ancestral
estates, to his niece Isabel de la Pole, wife of
Walter Langley (fn. 174) (d. 1470) of Knowlton (Kent). (fn. 175)
Isabel (d. 1474) was succeeded by her son
William Langley (fn. 176) (d. 1483), who was succeeded
by his son John, a minor. (fn. 177)
John Langley died in 1518 (fn. 178) and the Turkdean
estate evidently passed to John Strange, who died
in 1536 seised of land in Upper and Lower
Turkdean as well as of Chesterton manor. John's
son and heir Anthony (fn. 179) (d. 1542) was succeeded
by his son John, a minor, (fn. 180) and after John's
death in 1559 or 1560 the Turkdean estate evidently passed with Chesterton in turn to his brothers Thomas (d. 1594), perhaps the Thomas
Strange who became M.P. for Cirencester in
1572, and Anthony (d. 1596), who left part of
his estates to his widow Helen. (fn. 181) In 1600
Thomas's nephew Thomas Strange of Gray's
Inn (Mdx.) sold part of his uncle's Turkdean
estate to William Truby of Cirencester (fn. 182) and in
1610, at her death, Helen Strange left land in
Upper and Lower Turkdean to William
Trotman, her son-in-law. (fn. 183) The later descent of
the estate has not been traced.
In 1066 Osgot had an estate in Turkdean and
in 1086 William Leuric had the same with
Geoffrey as his tenant. (fn. 184) The estate may have
been that said later to have been held in turn by
Osbert and his son Hugh, the latter of whom
confirmed to Llanthony priory a grant of land
by his tenant Richard son of Pons (Pontius). (fn. 185) In
1165 Mahel of Hereford granted the priory the
part of Turkdean that he held by the grant of
Henry II. (fn. 186) The priory's estate, to which land
in Aylworth, in Naunton, was attached in 1291, (fn. 187)
was known by the mid 14th century as the manor
of TURKDEAN. (fn. 188) In 1543, following the
Dissolution, the Crown granted that manor,
which included land in Lower Turkdean, to
Richard Andrews and Nicholas Temple in two
stages and they sold it to William Walter, the
tenant of the demesne. (fn. 189) William died in 1559
seised of the manor, usually known later as
NETHER TURKDEAN manor, and his heir
was his son John. (fn. 190) In 1575 John sold the manor
to Oliver St. John, Lord St. John of Bletso. (fn. 191)
Lord St. John, (d. 1582) left the manor to a son
Oliver, (fn. 192) who succeeded to the barony in 1596 (fn. 193)
and had conveyed the manor to Sir John
Spencer by 1599. (fn. 194) Sir John, a former Lord
Mayor of London, died in 1610 and was
succeeded in his manor in Turkdean by his
daughter Elizabeth and her husband William
Compton, Lord Compton. (fn. 195) They retained it
until at least 1612. (fn. 196)
Soon afterwards the manor was acquired by
Thomas Dutton (d. 1615), who left it to his elder
brother William Dutton of Sherborne to buy
lands as an endowment for almshouses in
Northleach. (fn. 197) William and his successors did not
use the bequest as Thomas had intended (fn. 198) and
in 1648 William's son John evidently sold at
least part of Nether Turkdean manor to Robert
Brereton. (fn. 199) John Rich, to whom Brereton quitclaimed his estate in 1660, (fn. 200) sold Nether
Turkdean manor to John Coxwell of Preston,
near Cirencester, in 1665. (fn. 201) John Coxwell (d.
1667) was survived by several sons including
John, who died a minor in 1675. Henry, a
younger son, (fn. 202) inherited the manor before 1687 (fn. 203)
and retained it until his death in 1725. (fn. 204) Henry's
heir, his grandson Sir Henry Nelthorpe, (fn. 205) Bt.,
died a minor in 1729 and the manor passed, presumably with the baronetcy, to his uncle Henry
Nelthorpe of Barton on Humber (Lincs.). After
his death in 1746 his widow Elizabeth (d. by
1768) held the manor, and his son and heir Sir
John Nelthorpe (fn. 206) sold it c. 1790 to Edmund
Waller, the lord of Turkdean manor. In 1799
Edmund sold much of his Turkdean estate,
including part of Upper Turkdean, to Thomas
Willan. (fn. 207) Willan, who by his later acquisition of
Leygore farm (fn. 208) enlarged his Turkdean estate to
1,182 a., died in 1828 and his executors put the
estate up for sale in 1829. Lower Turkdean farm
(212 a.), the part which included the house
known later as Lower Dean Manor, (fn. 209) was evidently bought by Thomas Tayler (fn. 210) and owned
in 1835 by his widow Rebecca. After her death
in 1848 ownership of the farm passed to their
son Thomas Tayler (fn. 211) and he retained it until his
death in 1903. (fn. 212) In 1905 Thomas Colpitts
Granger sold the farm to W. A. Rixon (fn. 213) of
Turkdean Manor and after Rixon's death in
1948 (fn. 214) Lower Dean Manor was included in that
part of his estate sold to the Milne family. In
1968 the house and 46 a. (c. 19 ha.) were sold
to Mr. S. L. Winwood, who remained their
owner in 1999. (fn. 215)
Lower Dean Manor, which is presumably on
the site occupied in the later Middle Ages by
the demesne buildings of Llanthony priory's
manor, is a two-storeyed, mainly rubble-built
house on an irregular plan. The block which
extends west from the centre of the east front
and has massive walling on its south side may
represent the chamber block of the house in
which William Walter, who became the priory's
tenant in 1534, (fn. 216) lived until his death in 1559. (fn. 217)
Under the east end of it is a cellar, which may
predate the rest of the fabric and may have
related to a former undercroft. Entered from a
smaller cellar on the north side through a fourcentred doorway within a blocked arch, it has
buttress-like pilasters along the south and east
walls. The room above dates from the early 16th
century and is lit by mullioned windows with
arch-headed lights and has a heavily beamed
ceiling; its west part has been interrupted by the
insertion of a chimney stack. A one-bayed north
extension with windows with ovolo-moulded
surrounds was added to give the chamber block
an L plan in the early 17th century. A larger
south-west addition was built in the late 16th or
early 17th century, probably by Sir John
Spencer or Lord Compton; its south front,
which has been reduced in height, is ashlarfaced and has an eight-light ground-floor
window, with chanelled king mullions and transoms, lighting a single large room containing a
fine classical chimneypiece. While it was the
Coxwell family residence, the house included a
hall (perhaps the large room in the south-west
block), great and little parlours, and great and
little cellars in 1667 (fn. 218) and contained nine hearths
in 1672; (fn. 219) by the latter date a three-bayed, twostoreyed west extension of the north range of the
chamber block had probably been added. Henry
Coxwell had let the west part of the house to a
tenant farmer by 1706 (fn. 220) and Lady (Elizabeth)
Nelthorpe reserved the part not occupied as a
farmhouse for her agent in 1762. (fn. 221) The house,
solely a farmhouse in 1829 (fn. 222) and until c. 1930, (fn. 223)
was enlarged by the addition of a rear wing in
the 19th century and an extension of that wing
in the 1960s. (fn. 224) The garden contains a dovecot
built in the early 1950s. (fn. 225) Part of a range of outbuildings west of the house was a separate dwelling in 1999.
On selling Nether Turkdean manor John
Dutton evidently reserved an estate in Lower
Turkdean to himself in 1648. (fn. 226) That estate, part
of which was held under lease by the Radway
family by the mid 18th century, (fn. 227) centred on
LEYGORE following parliamentary inclosure
in 1793 (fn. 228) and the ownership descended with the
Duttons' Sherborne estate until c. 1813 (fn. 229) when
Leygore was acquired by Thomas Willan. (fn. 230) In
1829 Willan's executors put Leygore farm (369
a.), then reputed a manor, up for sale with the
rest of his land in Turkdean (fn. 231) and in 1831 the
farm's owner was William Hewer (fn. 232) (formerly
Radbourne). William died in 1846 and his son
George (fn. 233) owned the farm at his death in 1887. (fn. 234)
After mortgagees offered the farm, comprising
378 a., for sale in 1900, (fn. 235) Arthur Edmund Moss,
the son of a Winchester (Hants) brewer, (fn. 236) bought
it (fn. 237) and made the farmhouse his country seat. At
his death in 1943 Moss was survived by his wife
Norah and his daughter Judith Main (fn. 238) and a few
years later Leygore was sold to Richard Evelyn
Fleming, a merchant banker (fn. 239) who added part of
the adjoining rectory farm to the estate in the
1960s. (fn. 240) Fleming died in 1977 and his son Mr.
Fergus Fleming owned the estate in 1999. (fn. 241)
The Leygore farmhouse was built in 1797 (fn. 242) to
replace an old house that was perhaps in Lower
Dean (fn. 243) and it was on an L plan with an outbuilding near by in 1829. (fn. 244) By the late 19th century
the house's three-bayed south front had a porch,
the angle of the L had been infilled, and there
was a detached building to the north-east, probably a coach house. (fn. 245) A. E. Moss renamed the
house Leygore Manor in the early 20th century (fn. 246)
and enlarged it in a heavy 17th-century style.
By 1920 he had extended the north-east service
wing and by 1927 had added a ballroom in a
south-west block which lengthened the south
front by three bays. He also made a west
entrance with a two-storeyed staircase hall and
added a north-west wing. (fn. 247) In work begun in the
early 1950s the ballroom was demolished and
other parts of the house were remodelled; some
of the fabric was re-used in a house elsewhere
in Turkdean. (fn. 248) Moss also enlarged the grounds
south of the house, (fn. 249) where he created a rockery
and, in the bottom of the valley, a lake or fishpond, but in the mid 20th century a large part
of the new gardens was laid down as grass. (fn. 250)
Higher up to the north are extensive ranges of
19th-century farm buildings and a house built
in the 1950s for the farm manager. (fn. 251)
The abbot of Cirencester was named in 1316
among the lords of Turkdean (fn. 252) but there is no
record of the abbey having an estate in the
parish.
Ralph Basset, the clerk, gave Turkdean
church to Oseney abbey in or before 1151. (fn. 253)
About 1190 William son of Henry and his son
Robert acknowledged the abbey's right to two
thirds of the Turkdean demesne tithes that it
had acquired as the successor in 1149 to the
endowments of St. George's church in Oxford
castle. (fn. 254) The abbey appropriated Turkdean
church before 1294 (fn. 255) and it retained the rectory,
which was valued at £10 in 1522 (fn. 256) and was
farmed with the abbey's land for £12 in 1535,
until the Dissolution. (fn. 257) The Crown granted the
rectory together with the land to the dean and
chapter of Christ Church, Oxford, in 1542 and
renewed the grant in 1546. (fn. 258)
The dean and chapter's estate, reputed to be
of manorial status, was held by lessees until the
late 19th century. Robert Hyett, who had been
Oseney abbey's lessee in 1535, (fn. 259) became the
dean and chapter's first tenant (fn. 260) and died in 1570
leaving his title to his son William. (fn. 261) Soon afterwards the dean and chapter granted a reversionary lease of the estate to Matthew Mantell, and
in 1587 he granted his title to his sister-in-law
Christian Wake of Oxford. She assigned the
manor and rectory to her son Abraham Wake in
1599 (fn. 262) and he retained the estate in 1608. (fn. 263) The
rectory, valued at £50 in 1603, (fn. 264) received the
corn tithes of 27 yardlands. (fn. 265)
In 1633 the dean and chapter of Christ
Church leased the manor and rectory to William
Blomer of Eastleach Martin for a term of three
lives. (fn. 266) Later leases were similar and were
renewed after one of the named lives had lapsed;
the dean and chapter's income included a fine,
calculated in 1807 at 2 years' valuation, (fn. 267) levied
at each renewal. Thomas Keble of Southrop was
the lessee in 1649 and the estate passed to his
son-in-law John Wheeler, of Minster Lovell
(Oxon.), to whom the dean and chapter granted
a lease in 1662. William Dewey of Iffley (Oxon.)
acquired the leasehold in 1665 and retained
it until 1699, when John Knight, rector of
Broughton (Oxon.), became the lessee. (fn. 268) Knight
died in 1712 (fn. 269) leaving as coheirs his daughters
Elizabeth, Hannah, and Susannah. Hannah, of
Bicester and later of Banbury (both Oxon.), survived her sisters (fn. 270) and at her death in 1751 or
1752 left the leasehold estate to Susannah
Trotman, wife of the architect Sanderson Miller
of Radway (Warws.). Miller died in 1780 (fn. 271) and
his son Fiennes Sanderson Miller sold the estate,
possibly on Susannah's behalf, to Edmund
Waller in 1790. (fn. 272) At inclosure in 1793, when the
rectorial tithes were commuted for 277 a., the
leasehold was enlarged to 601 a. (fn. 273) and in 1799
Edmund included it in a sale of land to Thomas
Willan. (fn. 274) After Willan's death in 1828 his executors were unable to sell Rectory farm, the leasehold part of his estate, (fn. 275) and by 1837 it was in
the hands of Henry Seymour (d. by 1879), the
husband of Willan's daughter Jane. Hers was
the last surviving life named in the most recent
lease, granted in 1818, and on her death by 1880
the leasehold was extinguished. (fn. 276) The dean and
chapter of Christ Church sold the freehold of
Rectory farm in 1911 to W. A. Rixon of
Turkdean Manor (fn. 277) and after his death in 1948
the farm was sold with much of his estate to the
Milne family. (fn. 278) In 1968 the farmhouse and
415 a. (c. 168 ha.) were bought by Mr. Giles
Daniels, their owner in 1999. (fn. 279)
The farmhouse, Rectory Farm, has a rubblebuilt rectangular main range of two and a half
storeys with a south-east front of four bays,
including gabled end bays, and a south-west
addition behind a screen wall. The mullioned
windows, those on the ground floor with king
mullions and all perhaps originally with transoms, have hoodmoulds except in the gables
where they are under string courses. The northeast bay, which has a very thick south-west wall
and floor levels higher than elsewhere in the
house, may represent the chamber block of a
late-medieval, perhaps 15th-century, house. Its
undercroft is of exceptional quality and has a
lierne vault in which sixteen chamfered ribs
spring from a central pier and rest on semicircular responds on the side walls and on quarter
responds in the angles. Piers and responds have
moulded capitals and plain bases; the ribs are
connected by liernes to four rings, each enclosing a half-spherical boss.
In 1606 Abraham Wake reserved part of the
house, including the hall, a kitchen, a buttery, a
storehouse, and the parlour with two rooms over
it, for his own use. (fn. 280) The ground-floor room at
the north-east end has a classical chimneypiece
of the late 16th or early 17th century. John
Wheeler heavily remodelled or entirely rebuilt
the main range apart from the north-east bay in
the mid 17th century (fn. 281) and William Dewey, who
lived in it in the late 17th century, (fn. 282) was assessed
for tax on seven hearths in 1672. (fn. 283) The southwest fireplace, the south-west entrance, and
probably the main south-east doorway are of the
17th century, and the south-east porch added in
the 19th century is composed from 16th- and
17th-century ornamental fragments. The service
rooms at the south-west end had been added by
the late 18th century. (fn. 284) The house, which was
said in 1727 to contain six bays, (fn. 285) was occupied
as a farmhouse by the Smith family for much of
the 19th century and was much repaired shortly
before 1857. (fn. 286) A short north-west range built
parallel with the main block in the 19th century
was extended c. 1993. (fn. 287)
The outbuildings, which included a great
barn by the early 17th century, (fn. 288) stood almost
in front of the farmhouse. (fn. 289) In 1839, to improve
the accommodation of the adjacent vicarage
house, a large barn south of the farmhouse was
rebuilt further east and farm buildings along the
south-west side of the farmyard were added to
the vicarage grounds. (fn. 290) Some ranges on the
north-east side date from the later 19th century.
Economic History.
In 1086 eleven hides
in Turkdean were divided almost equally
between two estates but all but one of the
eleven ploughs they supported were on Robert
Doyley's estate with its 4 demesne ploughs and
its 6 ploughs shared by 12 villani. Robert's
estate, which had decreased in value from £6 to
£5, also included 8 servi and ancillae. On
William Leuric's slightly smaller estate, which
had decreased in value from £4 to 10s., nothing
was in demesne and the single plough was
shared by 3 villani and 2 bordars. (fn. 291)
Upper Turkdean, the part of the parish held
from the honor of Wallingford, was assessed for
tax in 1220 on nine ploughteams. (fn. 292) There is little
evidence to show how much land in Upper
Turkdean was kept in demesne and how much
was held by tenants in the Middle Ages.
Westbury college had leased its manor by 1509 (fn. 293)
and it received £4 13s. 4d. from the farm and
£3 15s. from assized rents in 1535. (fn. 294) Oseney
abbey in 1280 maintained a permanent staff of
farm servants and kept oxen and sheep on its
Turkdean estate, which was then administered
as part of the abbey's Bibury estate. (fn. 295) In 1291
the Turkdean estate comprised a ploughland in
demesne and assized rents. (fn. 296) The demesne was
later let at farm with the Turkdean rectory and
the tenants' rents for £10, and by 1509 the abbey
had leased pasture in Turkdean for 160 sheep
to the farmer for £2. (fn. 297)
Llanthony priory in 1291 had two ploughlands in demesne in Lower Turkdean and
Aylworth, in Naunton, but a greater part of the
total value of the two estates came from assized
rents. (fn. 298) The Turkdean demesne arable evidently
comprised one ploughland (fn. 299) and in the later 14th
century, when it was leased, the priory provided
oxen and a plough for the lessees' use and
reserved pasture for its sheep and other animals. (fn. 300) In the 15th and early 16th century all the
demesne was leased (fn. 301) and in 1535, as in 1464,
the demesne rent of 30s. was less than half the
value of the priory's customary rents in
Turkdean. (fn. 302) In 1401 eight tenants, of whom one
was probably the lessee of the demesne, (fn. 303) held
between them 5 yardlands, 11 half yardlands,
and a few smaller holdings for cash rents, and a
tenant at will held a cottage and some land from
the priory for cash. By 1464, when the priory's
rental was less, the number of tenants had fallen
to three, not including the tenant at will, and
the largest holding included 4 yardlands. (fn. 304) The
rental remained the same at the Dissolution
when some of the land was held with the
demesne farm. (fn. 305) A yardland was later reckoned
to contain c. 40 a. (fn. 306)
By the early modern period the village was
surrounded by meadow and pasture closes. Two
or three of those on the east side may have been
created at the expense of parts of open fields or
commons in the late 15th or early 16th century
by Westbury college's tenant. (fn. 307) Beyond the
closes in the early 17th century two adjacent
open fields took in most of the parish north and
north-east of the village; one extended as far as
Notgrove and, in the north-west, down into the
Turkdean valley to include a few strips on the
valley's west side, and the other, called the
nether field, extended as far as Cold Aston. (fn. 308)
The fields, which were farmed on a two-course
rotation with a fallow in the second year, were
known in 1640 as the north field and the east
field. (fn. 309) The varying width of holdings in them
in the mid 18th century was presumably in part
the result of some consolidation of strips. (fn. 310)
Lower Turkdean had separate open fields
described in the mid 1380s as a north and a south
field. (fn. 311) A large part of those fields may have been
inclosed by the mid 17th century, when the
estate acquired by John Rich included 160 a. in
two several fields and 8 a. arable in a close called
New Tynings, (fn. 312) but in 1727 the rectory estate
included 19½ a. dispersed in a field called Sir
Henry Nelthorpe's field, mostly in pieces of ½ a.
bounded by land belonging to Nelthorpe and to
Edmund Waller. (fn. 313) Later the Nelthorpe family's
estate included an 'in field' and an 'out field',
the latter south of the former and on the
Hazleton boundary. (fn. 314)
Before inclosure the valley bottoms were used
mostly as grassland, those in the east, upstream
of Broadwater bottom, being divided into small
meadows. (fn. 315) Parts of several other meadows, in
Lower Turkdean, were ploughed up and planted
with corn in the late 17th century. (fn. 316) The largest
commons were on the high ground farthest from
the village, in the east by the Foss way above
Broadwater bottom and in the north-west
beyond the Turkdean valley, and elsewhere
there were smaller commons on some of the
steeper hillsides. (fn. 317) In the early 17th century the
commons were stinted at 3 cattle, 1 horse, and
50 sheep-pastures to a yardland. (fn. 318) In the early
1670s William Bannister, the lord of Turkdean
manor, disputed William Dewey's claim that the
rectory estate had owned manorial rights over
one common by the mid 16th century. (fn. 319) The
common in dispute was presumably on either
Bicknells hill, by the Foss way leading out of
Broadwater bottom, or Greendean hill, northeast of the village descending to the floor of the
Turkdean valley. In the early 17th century both
pastures had been regarded as part of the rectory
estate (fn. 320) but in the 18th century rights in them
between Lady Day and Lammas were divided
three to one between Edmund Waller, the lord
of Turkdean manor, and the rector. (fn. 321)
Although the common in dispute in the early
1670s had been open for many years to cattle
from 3 May and to sheep from Michaelmas, (fn. 322)
the principal sheep pastures were the open fields
following the harvest. In the late 14th century,
according to regulations for the commoning of
sheep enforced in Llanthony priory's court,
sheep were excluded from the Lower Turkdean
fields until Martinmas. (fn. 323) Oseney abbey and
Llanthony priory kept sheep in Turkdean in the
13th and 14th centuries; (fn. 324) when in 1366 the
priory leased the demesne arable of its Lower
Turkdean estate it reserved a sheephouse and
pasture rights for sheep and placed on the lessee
the duties of providing a fold for its flock and
employing a shepherd to look after those sheep
between Lady Day and All Saints. (fn. 325) At least two
shepherds lived in Lower Turkdean in 1381. (fn. 326)
In the early 17th century, when a shepherd was
among the Turkdean men named in a muster
roll, (fn. 327) there was a sheephouse on the rectory
estate. (fn. 328) In the early 18th century the same estate
had pasture rights for sheep in both Upper and
Lower Turkdean, the greater part being in the
Upper Turkdean fields. (fn. 329) Early evidence of
dairying is provided by storage of sold cheeses
at Lower Turkdean in 1667. (fn. 330)
Turkdean was inclosed in 1793 under an Act
of the previous year. The inclosure award, which
commuted the tithes of the parish, allotted
1,964 a. of open-field and common land in
Upper and Lower Turkdean and confirmed a
series of exchanges in which some allotments
and many old closes, some with buildings on
them, changed hands. As a result of the
exchanges Edmund Waller received 1,323 a.,
including 582 a. for the rectory estate, and James
Dutton, Lord Sherborne, received 364 a.,
including 94 a. allotted to Mary Radway for an
estate she held of him. Of the other beneficiaries
the vicar received 167 a., Mary Humphris 87 a.,
the Revd. Harry Waller 15 a., and the parish
clerk less than 1 a. ex officio. The award also
designated nine small pieces of land as quarries
for the repair of the parish roads. (fn. 331)
Following the inclosure Turkdean was divided between a few farms and most parishioners
depended directly on agriculture. In 1811 only
5 out of 32 families were supported chiefly by
trades or crafts (fn. 332) and in 1831 50 parishioners
worked as agricultural labourers. (fn. 333) In 1851 the
main farms, two each in Upper and Lower
Turkdean, ranged in size from 300 a. to 710 a.
and their workforces from 5 to 41 labourers. (fn. 334)
The four farms remained virtually intact in the
late 19th century (fn. 335) and the one centred on Lower
Dean Manor included the vicarial glebe for at
least part of that period. (fn. 336)
In the early 20th century A. E. Moss took
Leygore farm in hand but W. A. Rixon increased
the number of tenanted farms on his estate from
three to four by keeping the vicarial glebe, one
of the smaller holdings, as a separate farm following his acquisition of it in 1908. (fn. 337) Of seven farms
and smallholdings returned for the parish in
1926, three farms had over 300 a. each and
another over 150 a. (fn. 338) In 1932 and 1933 Rixon,
having cancelled the leases of his existing tenant
farmers, took on new tenants, including W. W.
Mustoe, and later he granted leases of Rectory
and Glebe farms, the former rectory estate and
vicarial glebe, to W. H. Johnston. For much of
the 1950s, following the acquisition of the estate
by the Milne family trust, Johnston farmed over
900 a. in partnership with W. G. Milne, (fn. 339) and in
1956 six other farms, one with over 300 a.,
another with over 150 a., and the rest with under
15 a., were returned for Turkdean. (fn. 340) The break
up of the Turkdean estate started in the late 1950s
led to a reorganization of the farms, part of
Rectory farm being added to the Leygore estate
and the part of Glebe farm on the north side of
the parish being incorporated in the Notgrove
estate. Much of the land was farmed by its owners
and of the six farms returned for Turkdean in
1986 the three largest had over 200 ha. (494 a.)
and the others under 30 ha. (74 a.). In 1999 the
Mustoe family farmed nearly 404 ha. (1,000 a.),
Rectory farm comprised over 161 ha. (400 a.), (fn. 341)
and Leygore farm, which had been in hand until
the mid 1990s, was leased to the farmer of the
adjoining part of Northleach parish. (fn. 342) In 1926 the
farmland provided regular employment for 27
labourers, (fn. 343) but by 1986, when the smaller farms
were worked part-time, eight labourers were
hired on a regular basis (fn. 344) and in 1999 only two
farmworkers lived in the village. (fn. 345)
In the early 19th century Turkdean was
devoted to arable and sheep farming. The 654 a.
recorded under arable crops in 1801 grew
roughly similar areas of wheat, barley, oats, and
turnips; (fn. 346) according to at least one farmer turnips were the best food for increasing the size
of sheep. (fn. 347) Two shepherds lived in the parish in
1841. (fn. 348) The crop rotation included also large
areas of grass and clover in the mid 19th century
and only 141 a. was returned as permanent
grassland compared with 1,816 a. as arable and
12 a. as fallow in 1866. (fn. 349) The animals returned
in that year included 856 sheep, 187 cattle,
including 27 milk cows, and 46 pigs. (fn. 350)
Substantial cattle sheds were among the farm
buildings erected at Leygore during that period.
Sheep farming remained important in the late
19th century and most if not all of the farms had
their own shepherd at that time. (fn. 351) The amount
of arable land fell and the area of grazing land
increased; in 1896, when at least 70 a. was fallow,
462 a. was returned as permanent grassland and
25 a. as heath land, presumably rough grazing.
The animals returned in 1896 included 922
sheep, 137 cattle of which only 5 were in milk,
and 145 pigs. (fn. 352)
The reduction in the area of arable farming
continued in the early 20th century (fn. 353) and in
1926, when 504 a. was described as permanent
grassland and 452 a. as rough grazing, only
396 a. was under cereals and 8 a. was fallow.
The livestock returned included 384 ewes, 286
cattle of which 24 were in milk, 95 pigs, and,
among the poultry, 742 chickens. (fn. 354) In 1956,
when at least 703 a. was given over to grazing
and 664 a. to growing cereals, 431 a. was
described as permanent grassland and the livestock included 483 ewes, 415 beef and dairy
cattle, 198 pigs, and 1,604 poultry. (fn. 355) From the
mid 20th century the number of cattle fell and
in 1986, when at least 163 ha. (403 a.) was grassland and 22 ha. (54 a.) rough grazing, 528 ha.
(1,305 a.) was used for growing cereals and the
farm animals returned for the parish included
945 ewes and 242 cattle. Of the three largest
farms one mostly grew cereals and another
raised cattle and sheep. (fn. 356) In 1999 the Mustoes,
who had ceased dairy farming in 1946 and had
sold their beef cattle some years later, had three
quarters of their farm, the largest in Turkdean,
under arable crops, including oilseed rape and
linseed as well as corn, and owned a flock of
several hundred ewes and a herd of 40 suckling
cows. (fn. 357)
There is no evidence to indicate more precisely the location of a mill that in 1291 belonged
to Llanthony priory's estates in Turkdean and
Aylworth. (fn. 358) The route on the north side of
Turkdean known in 1614 as mill way (fn. 359) probably
led to a mill in Cold Aston. (fn. 360)
The earliest reference to quarrying in
Turkdean is the presentment in 1386 of the vicar
for digging stones at the cliff, (fn. 361) presumably the
steep bank between Upper and Lower Turkdean
where quarries perhaps in use in the late 19th
and the early 20th century (fn. 362) had been long abandoned by 1999. Two tunnels dug in the bank,
below the Northleach road, before the mid 20th
century (fn. 363) were possibly abortive stone mines.
Most stone quarried in Turkdean, including by
the Foss way, (fn. 364) was presumably for local use. In
the mid 17th century John Wheeler quarried
perhaps more than 60 loads of stones in one
common in the parish for rebuilding the farmhouse on the rectory estate. (fn. 365) Local stone was
used in walls bounding medieval closes (fn. 366) and
post-inclosure fields. In the mid 20th century
farmer Mr. W. Mustoe excavated a new quarry
in a field north-west of the village to provide
stone for a long wall built alongside a section of
the Notgrove road. (fn. 367) One of the earliest known
Turkdean masons and builders worked in the
late 1650s in an area including Maugersbury. (fn. 368)
In the early 19th century several Turkdean residents were masons, including by 1835 William
Mustoe (fn. 369) (d. 1902), (fn. 370) whose son continued his
business and whose grandson, W. W. Mustoe
(d. 1943), established a building firm in Northleach before taking up farming in Turkdean in
the early 1930s. (fn. 371)
In 1608 a few Turkdean men followed the
trades of smith, carpenter, tailor, and weaver. (fn. 372)
In the mid 19th century, when most men living
in the parish were agricultural labourers, Upper
and Lower Turkdean each had a blacksmith and
a carpenter. (fn. 373) A few other trades, including
that of shoemaker, were also represented in
Turkdean in the later 19th century but most
trades died out in the early 20th century. (fn. 374) A
grocer's shop was perhaps one of two stores in
Upper Turkdean in 1851 (fn. 375) and its owner also
ran a post office by 1889. (fn. 376) The village ceased to
have a post office before the Second World War (fn. 377)
and its sole shop in the mid 20th century, a confectionery shop in Upper Turkdean, closed
before 1982. (fn. 378)
Local Government.
By the later 13th
century Cirencester abbey had exempted
Llanthony priory's tenants in Turkdean from
suit of hundred court (fn. 379) and the priory held
view of frankpledge in Turkdean for Lower
Turkdean. (fn. 380) According to its surviving rolls, for
the years 1375–92, the priory's Turkdean court
was sometimes held more than twice a year and,
although it enforced the assize of ale and supervised the maintenance of roads and streams, its
main business was as a manor court for the priory's estates in both Turkdean and Aylworth. (fn. 381)
Following the division of Nether Turkdean
manor in the mid 17th century the parts were
regarded as separate franchises. (fn. 382) That the
southernmost part of Turkdean adjoining the
Foss way and the ancient route along the south
boundary used to be called gallows furlong suggests that a gibbet once stood there or near by. (fn. 383)
Leet jurisdiction in Upper Turkdean belonged
to the honor of Wallingford (later the honor of
Ewelme) and was exercised in a court held at
Little Rissington. The earliest surviving roll of
the court is for 1422 (fn. 384) and the Turkdean constable attended the court until at least 1808. (fn. 385)
Oseney abbey held a court for Turkdean and
records of that court survive for 1427, 1499, (fn. 386)
and 1511. (fn. 387)
Turkdean had two churchwardens in 1498
and later. (fn. 388) Of the other parish officers there
were two surveyors of the highways in 1768 and
1824. (fn. 389) Poor relief, administered by one overseer
by 1799, cost £49 in 1776 and £112 in 1803. It
took the usual forms, but by 1799 and until 1804
the parish bought wool for a few women to card
and spin under the supervision of a master;
during that period the annual cost fluctuated
considerably and sometimes exceeded £200. In
1803 there were 17 people in receipt of regular
help and 4 occasional help (fn. 390) and in 1815, when
the cost was £168, 14 people received regular
and 13 occasional help. (fn. 391) Between 1825 and 1834
the cost fell from £215 to just over £100. (fn. 392)
Turkdean joined the new Northleach poor-law
union in 1836 (fn. 393) and became part of Northleach
rural district in 1895 (fn. 394) and part of Cotswold
district in 1974.
Church.
In the early 12th century Ralph
Basset, the justiciar, gave Turkdean church to
his son Ralph, a clerk, and by 1151 the younger
Ralph had granted it to Oseney abbey. (fn. 395) In the
later 12th century the church was held for a time
under its rector by a farmer, who received two
thirds of demesne tithes in Turkdean in the
name of a canon of St. George's church in
Oxford castle until that canon's death. (fn. 396) St.
George's church had been granted those tithes
in the later 11th century and Oseney abbey
owned them from 1149. (fn. 397) About 1176 the abbey
granted William son of Henry and his immediate
successor each the right to present once to
the church, their priests to pay a pension to the
abbey and the right of patronage to revert to the
abbey. (fn. 398) The abbey was allowed to appropriate
the church c. 1215, and it ordained a vicarage, (fn. 399)
first recorded in 1289. (fn. 400) The living remained a
vicarage (fn. 401) and in 1967 it was united with Cold
Aston and Notgrove. (fn. 402) From 1986 Turkdean
was served with other parishes by a priest-incharge based in Northleach. (fn. 403)
The advowson of the vicarage belonged to
Oseney abbey (fn. 404) and after the Dissolution it
passed with the impropriate rectory to the dean
and chapter of Christ Church, Oxford. (fn. 405)
Although in 1635 the king was said to be
the patron, the dean and chapter exercised the
patronage themselves (fn. 406) and retained it after the
sale of the rectory estate in 1911. (fn. 407) In 1964 the
patronage passed by exchange to the bishop (fn. 408)
and from 1967 he had the right to present at
every third vacancy in the united benefice. (fn. 409)
In 1614 the vicar's glebe comprised a house,
an adjoining close, 2 yardlands of arable, and pasture for 100 sheep, 6 beasts, and 2 horses. The
ancient endowment of the living also included the
corn tithes of 3 yardlands, some hay tithes, and
all the small tithes, including those of lambs and
wool, of the parish. (fn. 410) The hay tithes were taken
in particular meadows and in the late 17th century, when some of those meadows were under
the plough, the lessee of the rectory, which
included all the other tithes of the parish, successfully impleaded the vicar for the right to the tithe
of corn grown there. (fn. 411) In 1720, in response to
grants worth £210 from Thomas Edwards and
Edward Colston, Queen Anne's Bounty awarded
£200 for the living's augmentation, (fn. 412) and in
1722 those sums were used to buy land in
Badgeworth. (fn. 413) At the inclosure of Turkdean in
1793 the vicar's tithes were commuted for land
and 6s. 6d. in rents, and a farmhouse and other
buildings in the village were assigned to the living
in exchanges of land, leaving the glebe with c.
172 a. in Turkdean. (fn. 414) The living is said to have
been augmented by another grant of £200 in
1820 (fn. 415) and a meadow near the vicarage house was
added to the glebe in the 1870s. (fn. 416) The Turkdean
land was sold to W. A. Rixon in 1908 (fn. 417) and the
Badgeworth land remained the property of the
benefice until 1951. (fn. 418)
Turkdean church was valued at £5 in 1291. (fn. 419)
The vicarage was valued at £7 in 1522, (fn. 420) £10 in
1535, (fn. 421) and £40 in 1650. (fn. 422) In 1750 the living's
value excluding the augmentation from Queen
Anne's Bounty was put at £36 (fn. 423) and in 1856 it
was £228. (fn. 424)
In or before the 17th century the vicarage
house was, to judge from a chamfered beam,
thick walls, and external quoining, a range
aligned NE.–SW. The vicar Henry Massey, who
is said to have rebuilt the house in 1733, (fn. 425) possibly raised the building and extended it on an L
plan, and a later vicar Thomas Bowen, who is
said to have 'made it more complete' in the later
18th century, (fn. 426) presumably filled in the south
angle. The rooms in that angle are taller and
they were refitted c. 1820. (fn. 427) The house stood
right up against the yard of the rectory farmhouse, to the north-east, and in 1839, to improve
the vicar's accommodation, a strip of land containing farm buildings was added to the vicarage
grounds; one of the outbuildings was retained
and converted by the vicar Frederick Biscoe as
a stable, coach house, and laundry. (fn. 428) In 1847 the
house, which had two storeys with attics and
was roughly square with a north-west entrance,
was enlarged and reoriented for Biscoe by the
Cirencester builder Thomas Bridges; rooms
were added on the north-west front and an
entrance bay with a stepped gable was created
in the centre of the south-west front, which gave
access to a new hall. (fn. 429) From 1947 the incumbent
lived outside the parish and in 1948 the house
was sold. (fn. 430) In the 1960s a new staircase was
inserted in the Victorian hall; (fn. 431) the flight from
the 1st floor to the attics survives in place from
the pre-1847 house. (fn. 432)
In 1340 the bishop appointed a priest to
administer the living of Turkdean as assistant
to the vicar and the following year another
man, from Arlington, became vicar on the
death of the incumbent. (fn. 433) John Stackhouse,
vicar 1535–60, (fn. 434) was unable to recite the
Ten Commandments and expound the Apostles'
Creed in 1551. (fn. 435) His successor Richard
Edmunds, vicar of Little Barrington, resided in
Turkdean and served both cures; in 1563 he
was presented for not performing services at
Turkdean at the appropriate times and for keeping a mistress. (fn. 436) Gilbert Hodson, vicar from
1572, was not a graduate and was categorized in
1593 as a sufficient scholar but no preacher. (fn. 437)
Presented in 1602 for not preaching, (fn. 438) he retained
the living until the early 1630s. (fn. 439) Rowland Wilde,
vicar in 1642, (fn. 440) also acquired the livings of Stowon-the-Wold and Lower Swell (fn. 441) and in 1643 he
handed possession of Turkdean church to
Thomas Wilde. (fn. 442) Lewis Jones, the resident
clergyman at Turkdean by 1649, (fn. 443) continued to
serve the church as curate in the early 1660s. (fn. 444)
Thomas Wilde, who secured the vicarage at the
Restoration, (fn. 445) employed another curate in 1669
and had resigned the living by 1673. (fn. 446)
Henry Massey, vicar 1731–57, was the first of
a succession of graduates of Christ Church college, Oxford, holding the perpetual curacy of
Aldsworth in plurality with Turkdean, by the
gift of the dean and chapter of Christ Church,
between 1736 and 1837. (fn. 447) Massey, who was
also assistant master at Northleach grammar
school, (fn. 448) provided full services at Turkdean
except in the winter. (fn. 449) Thomas Bowen, vicar
1757–98, (fn. 450) lived in Turkdean. (fn. 451) George
Illingworth, vicar 1798–1807, employed a curate
there and retained a living in Hampshire. (fn. 452) In
1817 the living was under sequestration and a
stipendiary curate was appointed to serve
Turkdean and Aldsworth from Turkdean, but
in 1825 George Hornsby, vicar 1807–37, (fn. 453)
resided and the church had a single Sunday
service alternately in the morning and afternoon. (fn. 454) Frederick Biscoe, vicar 1837–80, (fn. 455) had
Turkdean as his sole benefice and in 1859 conducted two Sunday services in the church. (fn. 456)
Turkdean continued to have its own incumbent
until just after the Second World War, but from
1947 it was served by a priest living outside the
parish. (fn. 457) In 1999 there was a Sunday service in
the church every other week.
Turkdean church was dedicated to ALL
SAINTS probably by the later 18th century; (fn. 458)
it bore a dedication to St. Mary in 1558 (fn. 459) and
allegedly to St. Michael in 1735. (fn. 460) The church
comprises chancel, nave with north porch and
south aisle, and west tower, and the chancel floor
is much higher than that of the rest of the building. The site is very close to the former rectory
buildings, to the south. Fragments of decorated
stone of the mid 11th century incorporated in
the west wall may indicate the presence of an
11th-century church on the site, but the oldest
standing fabric, notably the west end of the
nave, dates from the early 12th century and was
possibly built by Ralph Basset, the justiciar.
Although small, the 12th-century church was
very elaborately decorated. Its aisleless nave,
which was slightly wider on the north than the
present nave, was divided externally into bays
by short, three-stage buttresses; there are three
similar, graduated buttresses on the west wall
with a carving of a human head set above the
central one. The corbel table was of grotesque
heads and abstract architectural forms. The nave
had north and south doors, fragments of which
survive; that on the north had an inner order
comprising a multi-scalloped capital and chipcarved impost supporting three bands of chevron ornament and an outer hoodmould with two
rows of syncopated billets. The south door
appears to have been similar and was apparently
covered by a porch. The form of the 12thcentury east end is unknown as the chancel has
been entirely rebuilt apart from the round
chancel arch, which is plain and stands on
chamfered imposts, but it is possible that the
upper part of a narrow 12th-century doorway,
blocked and reset in the chancel south wall, was
part of a priest's door; it has a pelleted and
diapered tympanum, diapered hoodmould and
imposts, and a large inner roll on cushion
capitals.
Much of the church was rebuilt in the late
15th or early 16th century. The south aisle,
which has a blocked door, was added, and the
north wall was partly rebuilt within the line of
the previous north wall and with a porch. The
tower was probably added at the same time. The
nave arcade is of three bays with double chamfered arches on octagonal piers and bases. The
north door has a Tudor-arched head with a
square surround and there are blank shields in
the spandrels; the hoodmould has male and
female headstops like that on the entrance to the
porch. There are two contemporary squareheaded windows in the nave north wall. The
tower, which was built inside the west end of
the nave, has low, flat chamfered arches to the
nave and to the north and south. In 1500 there
was a light dedicated to St. Anthony in the
church. (fn. 461)
The chancel, the maintenance of which was
the responsibility of the lessee of the rectory
from 1633 if not before, (fn. 462) appears to have been
almost entirely rebuilt since the Reformation.
Its south wall contains a datestone of 1741, and
Thomas Willan claimed to have spent a considerable sum of money on the fabric between
1806 and 1809. (fn. 463) In the 1850s parts of the
church's fabric and fittings were described as
unecclesiastical and unsightly. The chancel,
which contained several box pews, had been
reroofed; it had a round-headed east window,
and the upper parts of the two lancets on its
south side had been replaced by timber lintels. (fn. 464)
A small west gallery had been erected (fn. 465) and the
pews at the east end of the nave and aisle faced
northwards towards the pulpit. (fn. 466) In 1859, as part
of extensive repairs and alterations instigated by
the vicar Frederick Biscoe, (fn. 467) the east window
and the lancets in the chancel were restored, the
gallery was removed, and box pews were
replaced by low open seats. On the north side
of the nave the window that the gallery had
obscured was restored and a more recent rectangular window over the pulpit was blocked.
During the restoration the church's 14thcentury font was damaged and a copy of it made;
the late-medieval stone pulpit, which had been
stored under the tower after it had been superseded by an oak pulpit, was reinstated in the
nave; and some new fittings were introduced.
Ceilings in the chancel and nave were taken
down a few years later. (fn. 468) New roofs were built
in 1897 when, during restoration work designed
by Charles Lloyd Tudor, a relative of the then
vicar, the chancel arch was opened up fully by
the removal of the lectern from within its north
side, the steps from the chancel to the nave were
renewed, the pulpit was placed south of the arch,
and the nave seating was reorganized to face east
and leave the aisle free of pews. (fn. 469) The chancel
and nave were repewed in the late 20th
century. (fn. 470)
During the restoration of 1897 an altar stone
was excavated together with fragments of 12thcentury capitals and columns at the west end of
the aisle. (fn. 471) Traces of medieval and later decoration in the nave are the only survival of paintings uncovered in 1967. (fn. 472) The church bells
comprise a ring of three, of which the second
dates from the 14th century and the others were
cast by Edward Neale of Burford (Oxon.) in
1641, and a sanctus cast by Neale in 1663. (fn. 473) In
1999 only the tenor was chimed; the second was
not used and the treble and the sanctus were on
the belfry floor in need of repair. (fn. 474) The plate
includes a chalice and paten of 1717 and a salver
of 1754, (fn. 475) the latter bought with a bequest from
Anne Coxwell (fn. 476) (d. 1736). Most of the stone
memorials remaining in the church are ledgers
that once marked the graves of members of the
Bannister and Coxwell families; (fn. 477) many were
used in 1859 to make a narrow central walkway
between the pews and were relaid again in 1897
to make the aisle floor. (fn. 478) Some of the chancel
windows have later 19th-century stained glass
and one aisle window contains a glass memorial
by Henry A. Payne to Lady Bolton (d. 1924)
installed in 1937 at the expense of her husband
W. A. Rixon. (fn. 479) A painted rood screen by Peter
Falconer (fn. 480) was given in memory of A. E. Moss
(d. 1943) and his son-in-law F. W. D. Main (d.
1949) and dedicated in 1949. (fn. 481) The parish registers contain entries from 1572. (fn. 482)
In the churchyard are many richly carved
headstones of the 18th century and the early
19th. Of the few tombchests, that of the vicar
Thomas Bowen (d. 1798) is the only monument
in the narrow part of the churchyard south of
the church. (fn. 483)
Nonconformity.
Seven parishioners
were enumerated as nonconformists in 1676 (fn. 484)
and among several people not attending the
parish church in the 1680s John Arkell was
named in a royal pardon granted to nonconformists in 1686. (fn. 485) No other evidence of nonconformity in Turkdean has been found before 1830 (fn. 486)
when a Stroud minister registered a cottage
there as a place of worship. That mission may
have been revived in 1835 when a Wesleyan
Methodist minister from Stroud registered
another house and, several weeks later, a
Leckhampton man registered the house of
George Draper (fn. 487) (d. 1860), also a Wesleyan
Methodist. (fn. 488) The Wesleyan meeting, which
Cheltenham preachers regularly visited, had an
attendance of 34 in 1851. (fn. 489) The following year
the Wesleyans registered another house in
Turkdean and, although in 1859 they had no
meeting house there, in 1865 their meeting had
14 members. Turkdean remained on the circuit
plan until 1894. (fn. 490)
Education.
In 1592 a parishioner was
teaching without a licence. (fn. 491) A day school established after 1825 (fn. 492) taught 15 children at their
parents' expense in 1833. (fn. 493) It had closed by the
later 1840s when separate Sunday schools, supported voluntarily, taught 20 boys and 21 girls
in the church. (fn. 494) A mixed day school opened in
1850 taught in a room provided by the vicar
Frederick Biscoe until a proper schoolroom was
built for it in 1851. (fn. 495) Run as a National school
by 1856, (fn. 496) it was re-established in 1874 in a new
schoolroom near the church. The new school
taught junior boys and girls and infants and it
was supported by voluntary contributions and
pence with a promise by local farmers to meet
any deficit in income. (fn. 497) The average attendance
was 30 in 1889 (fn. 498) and it had fallen to 18 by 1910. (fn. 499)
In 1916 the school was closed for the remainder
of the First World War, during which the pupils
attended Hampnett school, and in 1919 it
reopened with 21 pupils. (fn. 500) The average attendance was 19 in 1922 and 16 in 1938. (fn. 501) The
school closed in 1950 and the children were
transferred to Northleach school. (fn. 502) Later some
Turkdean children attended Cold Aston
school. (fn. 503) After its closure the Turkdean schoolroom may have been used as an agricultural
store (fn. 504) before the building was enlarged and
converted as a house.
Charity for the Poor.
Edmund Waller
(d. 1810) by will left the income of £5,000 stock
in reversion to provide bread, clothing, and
blankets twice a year for the poor of Upper
Turkdean, Farmington, and Beaconsfield
(Bucks.). By 1835, when the bequest became
operative, the principal had been reduced by the
costs of litigation to £3,692 stock, (fn. 505) and in 1870
Upper Turkdean's share of the income was
£36. (fn. 506) In 1887 the charity was divided into three
and separate trustees were appointed for Upper
Turkdean and for the other two parts. (fn. 507) Upper
Turkdean's income, c. £30, was distributed in
cash payments of £1 a head in the mid 20th
century and in clothing and coal to up to half a
dozen people in the late 1960s, when the charity
occasionally benefited parishioners living outside Upper Turkdean. In 1970 a Scheme
extended the charity's area to the entire parish
and permitted cash payments and the provision
of goods and services, (fn. 508) and in 1999 the charity
was dispensed at Christmas in vouchers used
mostly for fuel. (fn. 509)