BASSINGBOURN
The parish of Bassingbourn, (fn. 1) 20 km. south-west
of Cambridge, is approximately rectangular, being
bounded on the south by the Icknield Way and
divided from Litlington to the west by Litlington
mare, (fn. 2) a straightish ancient field-way. The eastern
boundary followed until 1966 the Old North Road.
Bassingbourn formerly covered 3,381 a. In 1896
a small area at its south-eastern corner, built over
as Royston grew, was made a separate civil parish
and transferred to Hertfordshire, being incorporated
into Royston in 1897. (fn. 3) The remainder, Bassingbourn civil parish, covered 3,204 a. (fn. 4) until 1966,
when it was united with the former hamlet of
Kneesworth, dependent on it ecclesiastically since
c. 1400, to its east. The unit thus created covered
in 1971 1,652 ha. (4,082 a.). (fn. 5)
Bassingbourn lies mainly upon the Lower Chalk,
with a belt of the Middle Chalk at its southern end,
and a fringe of Gault along the northern edge. The
ground rises very gently from c. 25 metres by that
edge to almost 30 metres in the middle of the
parish, where the village stands, and after dipping
slightly mounts again to 60 metres at the south end,
called from the 16th century the high field. (fn. 6) The
Bassingbourn brook runs from springs south-west
of the village down a narrow valley, northward
towards Shingay. Until 1800 the somewhat waterlogged north-west corner of the parish was called
the Fen. (fn. 7) Bassingbourn has no extensive ancient
woodland; after inclosure a few copses were planted
in the former open fields, mainly south of the
village. Its economy has always been basically
agrarian, those fields being cultivated latterly on a
triennial rotation until their inclosure in 1804.
Beginnings of light industry about 1900 came to
nothing.
The village name, the stream of Bassa's folk, (fn. 8)
may indicate quite early English settlement. Bassingbourn has usually been one of the most populous parishes in the area. In 1086 the vill included
36 peasants and 3 serfs, and had 68 taxpayers in
1327. (fn. 9) Of c. 180 inhabitants recorded in 1347 c.
100 lived in the main village and c. 75 at North End
½ mile away. (fn. 10) In 1377 347 adults paid the poll-tax. (fn. 11)
In the 1490s 85–100 people subscribed for new
church bells, and in 1524 84 paid the subsidy. (fn. 12)
There were 90 households in 1563. (fn. 13) The population soon rose sharply, perhaps to c. 700 by 1600,
falling again after 1610. (fn. 14) In 1660 c. 240 adult
residents were taxed, (fn. 15) and there were c. 130 dwellings under Charles II. (fn. 16) In 1676 there were c. 510
adults. (fn. 17) Numbers may have reached c. 800 in the
late 17th century, falling sharply after 1700, until
in 1728 there were only 127 families, but thereafter
increasing again gradually. (fn. 18) In 1801 the parish had
828 inhabitants, by 1821 1,042. (fn. 19) The village population, 1,206 by 1841, stabilized at c. 1,340 in the
1850s. Raised briefly to c. 1,710 c. 1870 on account
of the coprolite diggings, it had fallen by 1891 to
1,255 of whom 296 lived at North End, (fn. 20) and to
c. 1,050 by the 1920s. In 1951, although the total
figure was increased to over 2,550 by the Service
population at Bassingbourn airfield, the village
numbered only 959 inhabitants, a figure doubled
after new building to 2,027 by 1961, and reaching
c. 2,625 by 1971. (fn. 21)
The village stands a little north of the ancient
trackway called Ashwell Street, straightened at
inclosure, (fn. 22) which crosses the parish 2 km. north of
the Icknield Way. The village high street is part of
a lesser road, coming from Litlington, which crosses
the brook at Brook bridge, recorded in 1622, (fn. 23) and
continues eastwards along the 'causeway' to cross
the Old North Road at Kneesworth village. At the
Cross, mentioned in 1395, (fn. 24) the high street meets
a road running between South End and North End.
South End, so named by 1440, was still divided
from the main village by a slight gap in 1977. The
road to North End, called Church Street by 1440, (fn. 25)
runs past the church and the site of Richmonds
manor house. Somewhat west of North End lay the
former hamlet of Shadborough, recorded in 1549, (fn. 26)
later called Shadbury End, and already decayed by
1640. (fn. 27) By 1841, as in the 1970s, only 6 or 7 cottages
were left there. (fn. 28) The houses east of Water or
Spring Lane, which runs south from the east end of
the high street, were probably called East End from
the 17th century. (fn. 29)
The older houses stand mostly along the high
street and close to the crossroads on the road crossing it. They include many late 17th- or 18th-century cottages, usually plastered over a timber frame,
a few still thatched. In the 1970s some were newly
restored, but others derelict. More substantial
houses included the Old Saddlers, with a pargetted
upper floor above an overhang, and the Tan House,
towards South End, an L-plan timber framed house
which received in the 18th century a 3-bay front
with a pilastered door-case and modillion cornice. (fn. 30)
In the early 19th century two bulky, squarish greybrick farmhouses were built a little south of it, for
two of the newly inclosed farms. Only at Bellevue,
Bury, and Hoy's farms, south of the village, were
new farmhouses then built out in the former open
fields.
At inclosure there were c. 115 houses in the village, including 53 cottages, (fn. 31) and by 1841 c. 200.
Some 35 then stood at East End, 17 along Water
Lane, c. 50 on the high street, with 10 more just
north of it at Church End, 29 at South End, and
57 at North End. (fn. 32) By 1871 the corresponding
figures were c. 40, 19, c. 70, 27, 49, and 78. The
high street was mainly occupied with shops and
craftsmen's workshops, while the farm labourers
lived on the outskirts. (fn. 33) Close to Royston former
farmland was increasingly built over, especially
after the opening there in 1850 of the station on the
London-Cambridge line which runs across the
southern extremity of the parish. (fn. 34) In 1801 25
houses there stood within Bassingbourn, by 1841
40, and by 1861 nearly 80. (fn. 35) In the late 1850s 70 a.
north of the railway, belonging to a Royston brewer,
were sold for housing development, and were owned
from c. 1860 to 1867 by the British Land Co. (fn. 36) The
size of the village itself remained, however, fairly
stable. It contained c. 275 houses in the mid 19th
century, and c. 285 in the early 20th. (fn. 37) Bassingbourn had from 1866 street lighting, provided from
its own gas-works, then established by local men,
including one farmer. (fn. 38) The Bassingbourn Gas Co.
was bankrupt by 1895, when the liquidator sold its
works, including a brick gas holder and a retort
house, (fn. 39) which still stood in 1977, just east of Spring
Lane. Electricity reached the village c. 1936. (fn. 40)
Between 1951 and 1961 the number of houses
doubled from 327 to 660, and another 200 had been
built by 1971. (fn. 41) Military married quarters were
built along the Old North Road. Besides much infilling along the existing streets, especially with
bungalows, many new houses were laid out north
of Church End, including a council estate at the
Fillance to the north-west. Other council houses
were built south of the causeway, whose north side
was almost entirely built up by the 1970s, when also
extensive developments, including more council
housing, were laid out east and west of Spring
Lane. (fn. 42) Growth was temporarily halted in 1973
because the local sewage works was being overloaded. (fn. 43) Bassingbourn's population was also swollen
from the 1960s by gipsies encamping along Ashwell
Street in 60–100 caravans. Mainly engaged in casual
farm-work, such as pea-picking, or dealing in scrap
metal, they accumulated rubbish and alarmed the
villagers. (fn. 44)
An inn holder was recorded in 1485. (fn. 45) In the mid
18th century the village had four public houses, the
Hoops, Black Horse, Bull, and Bell, round which
vestry meetings circulated monthly. (fn. 46) The two last
belonged at inclosure to the Phillips family,
brewers at Royston, who also owned the Red Lion,
recorded by 1826. (fn. 47) That, the Bell, renamed by
1851 the Black Bull, both still owned by the Phillips
brewery in 1935, (fn. 48) and the Hoops were the village's
main public houses from 1851 to 1937. There were
also 7 to 10 beerhouses, including 3 or 4 at North
End. (fn. 49) The Red Lion had closed by 1960 and the
Black Bull, which was in a 17th-century house, by
1977, when the Hoops, occupying a partly 17thcentury building, survived. (fn. 50)
A friendly society had 90 members in 1803,
c. 120 by 1815. (fn. 51) In 1858 a farmer, W. T. Crole,
started a parish choir with c. 50 members, all
labourers, which he ran successfully into the 1870s. (fn. 52)
A coffee and reading room provided c. 1863 to
entice coprolite diggers from the beerhouses, shortly
declined into selling beer itself. (fn. 53) The Working
Men's Institute, established by 1871, was still open
in the 1930s. (fn. 54) By 1920 the parish council was
leasing 5½ a. as a recreation ground. (fn. 55) That land,
north of the Congregational chapel, was in 1937
presented to the village as a sports ground, enlarged
in 1949. (fn. 56) An annual amusement fair in July, perhaps
succeeding a hiring fair still held c. 1850, survived
from the 1880s to the 1930s. (fn. 57) A choral society
founded in 1943 was active into the 1960s. (fn. 58)
The level ground north of the village was acquired
in 1937 for an airfield, opened in 1938 and used for
three years for bomber training. It was occupied
from 1942 to 1945 by a U.S.A.F. heavy bomber
squadron, next by an R.A.F. air transport squadron,
and from 1951 to 1969 by two R.A.F. training
squadrons. (fn. 59) Following the phasing out of Canberra
aircraft, on whose maintenance c. 250 local people
had been employed since 1963, the site, 752 a., was
transferred in 1969 to the Army for use as a training
depot for the Queen's Division, (fn. 60) still active there
in 1977.
Manors and other Estates.
The seven
hides at Bassingbourn held by Eddeva the fair in
1066 had been given by 1086 to Count Alan, lord
of Richmond, (fn. 61) and remained, as RICHMONDS
manor, nominally a demesne estate of the honor of
Richmond, without subinfeudation, until the 16th
century. (fn. 62) After Alan's great-nephew and successor Count Conan died in 1171, Bassingbourn was
included by 1185 in the dower of his widow Margaret (d. 1201). (fn. 63) In 1206 it was in the king's hands, (fn. 64)
but by 1212 had been granted to Earl William
Marshal (fn. 65) (d. 1219), whose eldest son, William,
returned it to Henry III in 1230, for restoration to
Peter, count of Brittany. (fn. 66) Peter forfeited the honor
in 1235, and Bassingbourn was assigned by 1237 to
Queen Eleanor's uncle, William of Savoy (d. 1239), (fn. 67)
and with the honor in 1241 to William's brother,
Peter, (fn. 68) who retained them until they were confiscated in 1264. (fn. 69) In 1268 Henry III restored the
honor and its lands to John, duke of Brittany, and
they remained with the earls of Richmond of the
house of Brittany until John's great-grandson Duke
John died without issue in 1341. (fn. 70) Edward III
thereupon granted the lands of the honor to Queen
Philippa, who possessed Bassingbourn in 1347, (fn. 71)
on behalf of their son John of Gaunt, who held them
until 1372, when he restored them to his father. (fn. 72)
After 1384 Bassingbourn was granted to Queen
Anne of Bohemia (d. 1394). (fn. 73) In 1399 Henry IV
granted the honor for life to Ralph Neville, earl of
Westmorland, (fn. 74) on whose death in 1425 it passed by
reversion to John, duke of Bedford (d. 1435). (fn. 75)
In 1435 Bassingbourn was divided. One-third
passed as dower to Bedford's widow, Jacquette de
Luxemburg, who retained it until her death in
1471. (fn. 76) The other two-thirds were granted in 1437
for life to John Tiptoft, Lord Tiptoft, and, after he
died in 1443, (fn. 77) in tail male successively to John
Beaufort, duke of Somerset (d. s.p.m. 1444) and in
1444 to his brother and successor Edmund (fn. 78) (killed
1455). (fn. 79) Perhaps by 1453 those two-thirds has passed
to Edmund Tudor, earl of Richmond (fn. 80) (d. 1456).
They were included in 1457 in the dower of his
widow, Margaret Beaufort, (fn. 81) twice remarried, who
retained them (fn. 82) until her death. The other third,
having passed in 1471 to George, duke of Clarence,
lord of Richmond since 1462, was forfeited upon
his execution in 1478 (fn. 83) and granted in 1487 to Margaret, (fn. 84) upon whose death in 1510 the re-united
manor descended to her grandson Henry VIII, (fn. 85)
remaining with the Crown for over a century. In
1558 it was annexed to the Duchy of Lancaster, (fn. 86)
and was among the Duchy manors transferred in
1628, in repayment of royal debts, to the Corporation of London, subject to a reserved rent equal to
its farm. The rent was sold in 1674. (fn. 87)
In 1653 the City sold Bassingbourn to Thomas
Willett, a London merchant, (fn. 88) who resold it in
1654 to Sir Thomas Hatton, Bt., of Longstanton (d.
1658). (fn. 89) Richmonds manor descended in his family
until the early 19th century, being successively possessed by his eldest son Sir Thomas (d. 1682),
Thomas's widow Bridget (d. c. 1686) and brother
Sir Christopher (d. 1720), Christopher's son Sir
Thomas (d. s.p. 1733), and that Thomas's widow
Harriet (d. c. 1753) and nephew Sir Thomas (d.
1787). (fn. 90) After the latter's widow Harriet died in
1795 the estate passed to trustees to pay the debts of
Sir Thomas's son and heir Sir John (fn. 91) (d. s.p. 1811).
By 1810 they had already sold half the land allotted
for him at inclosure, including 274 a. bought in
1806 by Lord Hardwicke. (fn. 92) Sir John's brother and
heir Sir Thomas Dingley Hatton died suddenly in
1812, leaving as heirs his six sisters. Under a division
accomplished after 1815 the remaining 306 a. at
Bassingbourn came to Mary, the eldest sister, and
her husband Hale Wortham. (fn. 93) Both Wortham and
his wife died without issue in 1828, and that land
passed to Henry Hawkins, probably son of Wortham's sister Charlotte. (fn. 94) Hawkins held it until 1840,
when the manor passed to the Rev. Daniel Heneage
Finch-Hatton, (fn. 95) descended through the viscounts
Hatton and earls of Winchilsea from the elder
brother of Sir Thomas Hatton (d. 1658). (fn. 96) FinchHatton died in 1866, and the estate descended successively to his sons Edward Hatton Finch-Hatton
(d. s.p. 1883), and the Revd. William Robert FinchHatton (d. 1909), whose son George Daniel died
owning it in 1921. (fn. 97) The remaining land, called
Manor Farm, was sold to its tenant J. G. Russell
in 1923, but the nominal lordship was retained by
W. H. Francis, a Cambridge solicitor, until after
1938. (fn. 98) Lord Hardwicke's purchase, the later Bury
farm, whose 291 a. included all the Hattons' allotment south of the village, (fn. 99) remained with the Wimpole estate until the 1890s and was sold by its
mortgagees in 1902 to P. A. S. Hickey, after whose
death c. 1916 it was sold, partly to its tenants. In
1937 the Cambridgeshire County Council bought
c. 138 a. of Bury Farm. (fn. 100)
Richmonds manor-house probably occupied the
14-a. close, called in the 16th century the Bury
yard, (fn. 101) north-west of the church between the road
and the brook, where there are moats fed from the
river. Traces of building were still visible c. 1812,
when John of Gaunt was said to have formerly lived
there. (fn. 102) The house itself, recorded in 1280, was
empty and ruinous by 1436. (fn. 103) In 1455 the close was
granted to John Lynne, whose son Richard built
there a substantial new house, making fresh moats
and fishponds. The site, recovered by the Crown in
the 1520s, (fn. 104) was again empty by the 1620s. (fn. 105) At inclosure in 1804 it passed by exchange from the Hattons to the vicar. (fn. 106) The present Manor Farm, across
the road south of the church, is a timber framed
17th-century house, which received in the 18th
century a five-bay front in brick with a pilastered
doorcase.
By prescription or royal grant the earls of Richmond enjoyed free warren at Bassingbourn in the
13th century. (fn. 107)
Part of the Richmond manor was, probably by
the 1170s, subinfeudated to Warin of Bassingbourn, (fn. 108)
steward of the honor c. 1175 and joint sheriff of
Cambridgeshire 1170–7. (fn. 109) He died c. 1192. His son
and heir Wimar (Wihomarc) (fn. 110) held the Bassingbourn
land in 1214 (fn. 111) and died c. 1218, leaving as his heir
son Warin (d. 1229). (fn. 112) The latter's son Warin, then
a minor, (fn. 113) came of age c. 1248. (fn. 114) A follower of the
Lord Edward, Warin was rewarded in 1266 for his
royalism during the baronial rebellion with several
offices and a licence to crenellate his manor house at
Bassingbourn. (fn. 115) He died in 1269, holding ¼ knight's
fee there of the honor of Richmond. (fn. 116) His son and
heir Edmund, who held the manor in 1275, (fn. 117) died
after 1293, leaving a son Warin, (fn. 118) who held it c.
1302 and was knighted by 1316. (fn. 119) He was possibly
murdered c. 1334, (fn. 120) and was succeeded by 1344 by
his son Warin, (fn. 121) recorded as Sir Warin Bassingbourn 'of the castle', until 1359. (fn. 122) In 1378 the latter's
son and heir John settled CASTLE manor, then
held for life by his father's widow Margaret, upon
his marriage, and in 1388 acquired c. 70 a. there. (fn. 123)
It was probably the same John who died, apparently
without surviving issue, in 1420. (fn. 124)
By 1428 Castle manor mostly belonged to John,
Lord Tiptoft (d. 1443), whose son John Tiptoft,
earl of Worcester, (fn. 125) probably held it until his execution in 1470. (fn. 126) After the earl's son Edward died
without issue in 1485, Castle manor was apparently
divided between his aunts, Philippa, Lady Roos,
and Joan, widow of Sir Edmund Ingoldisthorpe. (fn. 127)
In 1488 Joan sold her moiety to Richard Lynne, and
Philippa hers to John Warde, a London grocer. (fn. 128)
That moiety was recovered by Philippa's son-inlaw Sir Thomas Lovell (d. 1524), who devised it to
his nephew Edward Lovell for life, with remainder
to Edward's elder brother Francis (fn. 129) (d. 1552).
Francis's son and heir Sir Thomas Lovell sold it to
Richard Lynne's grandson Philip in 1556. (fn. 130)
Richard's father John Lynne, a London merchant, had held land at Bassingbourn by 1455, (fn. 131)
and, besides arranging to buy half Castle manor,
left c. 70 a. there to Richard at his death in 1487. (fn. 132)
Richard served the Lady Margaret as vice-chamberlain and from c. 1497 as steward of Richmonds
manor. (fn. 133) He died in 1509, leaving a minor son
Thomas, and devising his half-manor and lands for
life to his widow Alice. (fn. 134) She soon married Anthony
Malory, and held that estate with him until 1538,
when it was settled on Thomas, (fn. 135) who died in 1549
leaving it to his widow Joan for life. Thomas's
eldest son Philip, (fn. 136) who also acquired Seymours
manor, died without lawful issue in 1557, when his
heir was his brother John. (fn. 137) John Lynne bought
c. 80 a. in 1580 from William Caldecote, (fn. 138) and held
Castle and Seymours manors until his death in
1613. His heir, his eldest surviving son Henry, (fn. 139)
sold them with over 750 a. in 1621 to Sir Giles
Alington, who possessed them in 1631, (fn. 140) but later
sold them to Sir Thomas Hatton, probably in 1635
when he transferred c. 130 a. of copyhold to him. (fn. 141)
The lordships of Castle and Seymours manors descended thereafter with Richmonds manor to the
Hattons and their successors. (fn. 142)
The site of the Bassingbourns' manor-house,
where stood the 'castle', after which the manor was
named by 1350, (fn. 143) was presumably that c. 1 km.
north of the village, surrounded by extensive demesne closes, which was called from the 19th century, incorrectly, 'John of Gaunt's House'. (fn. 144) Its outer
bailey, (fn. 145) c. 120 by 90 metres, perhaps enlarged once
and formerly surrounded by a wet moat of which
traces survive on three sides, was approached from
the south by a wide causeway 180 metres long.
Within that bailey another deeper moat, c. 10
metres wide and crossed by a bridge whose stone
foundations survived in 1807, surrounded a motte
up to 3 metres high. The type of fortification is
12th-century, and the licence to crenellate of 1266
may not have been used, for the castle was already
standing when Warin of Bassingbourn died only
two years later. (fn. 146) The earthworks were mostly
levelled by coprolite digging c. 1887. (fn. 147)
Before 1066 1½ hide at Bassingbourn had belonged to the bishopric of Winchester. It was held
in 1086 by Bishop Walkelin, (fn. 148) whose successor
Henry of Blois probably ceded it to his brother
King Stephen. (fn. 149) Two manors at Bassingbourn,
SEYMOURS and ROWSES, were later held of
Stephen's honor of Boulogne. (fn. 150) The Bassingbourns
originally held the former, under that honor, of the
Caieux and their successors as lords of Cheyneys
manor in Steeple Morden, whose possessor successfully claimed in 1235 wardship of the hide held
of him by Warin of Bassingbourn. (fn. 151) In the 1270s
Warin's son Edmund assigned that manor to Lawrence de Seymour, who had married Warin's niece
Emma (d. by 1276), in place of a Northamptonshire manor given as her marriage portion. (fn. 152) Lawrence transferred Seymours, before his death in
1297, to his eldest son Nicholas, (fn. 153) later Lord Seymour, who died in 1316, holding 260 a. at Bassingbourn as ½ knight's fee for a nominal service, of
Edmund's son Warin. Nicholas's eldest son, Sir
Thomas de Seymour, (fn. 154) came of age in 1325 and
held Seymours in 1346, (fn. 155) but not when he died
without issue in 1358. (fn. 156) In 1428 it was possibly held
by John Church. (fn. 157) In 1433 John Boef released it to
six feoffees, including Nicholas Caldecote of Meldreth (d. 1443). (fn. 158) Nicholas left a manor in Bassingbourn called Caldecotes to his younger son Thomas
(d. s.p. c. 1453), whose heir was his elder brother
Francis. (fn. 159) William Caldecote held Seymours manor
in 1539, and sold it in 1556 to Philip Lynne, (fn. 160) who
devised it for life to his widow Elizabeth (d. 1576). (fn. 161)
In 1589 John Lynne settled c. 250 a., including
the site of Seymours manor house, upon his eldest
son William's marriage to Elizabeth Steward. (fn. 162)
William, dying the same year, left c. 90 a. of it to
Elizabeth in fee simple. (fn. 163) The lordship, with the
reversion of the rest, remained with John Lynne,
who still held it under Cheyneys manor at his death
in 1613. (fn. 164) Elizabeth had c. 1591 married Robert
Cromwell (d. 1617). (fn. 165) In 1625 she sold the 90 a. to
Martin Perse, (fn. 166) retaining the rest, occupied in 1645
by her grandson Richard, the future Lord Protector, until her death in 1654. (fn. 167) Perse transferred
his 90 a. in 1626 to Caius College, Cambridge, as
part of 103 a. at Bassingbourn, for endowing Dr.
Stephen Perse's school at Cambridge. (fn. 168) At inclosure the college was allotted 56 a., (fn. 169) which were sold
in 1949 to its tenants, William and Thomas Howes. (fn. 170)
In the 1170s ½ fee at Bassingbourn, later Rowses
manor, was held of the honor of Boulogne by
William le Rous (Rufus). (fn. 171) Its mesne lordship also
belonged to Cheyneys manor. (fn. 172) It descended, mostly
in his family, with their manor in Clopton, (fn. 173)
until c. 1344 John le Rous settled 80 a. at Bassingbourn upon his son Philip, tenant there in 1346. (fn. 174)
In 1428 that fee was divided between John Church
(d. 1462), John Kneesworth, and John Goode, perhaps as later into one half and two quarters, with
15–20 a. of demesne to each quarter. (fn. 175) The half
was attached to Castle manor in 1485, and its
moieties were acquired separately by the Lynnes,
and soon devised to cadets of their family. (fn. 176) Another
quarter was attached to Goyses manor from 1457
to 1546, (fn. 177) and another held, with 100 a. at Kneesworth, between c. 1500 and 1546 by the Gerys of
Barkway (Herts.). (fn. 178) The fractions were after c. 1550
acquired severally by the local yeoman families of
Bolnest and Warren or Waller, and, after 1590,
Pilgrim. (fn. 179) By the late 17th century Rowses manorial
rights had been annexed to Castle and Seymours
manors. (fn. 180) The site of its manor house, vacant in
1589, (fn. 181) was perhaps marked by the Rowses Home
Close, recorded c. 1800. (fn. 182)
In 1086 1 hide at Bassingbourn, held in 1066 by
two sokemen of Earl Alfgar, belonged to Hardwin
de Scalers. (fn. 183) Its lordship descended with half his
barony to the descendants of his son Richard and
their successors the Frevilles. (fn. 184) Walter Martin held
½ fee of Stephen de Scalers in 1166. (fn. 185) About 1235
Mary Martin held as ½ fee 1 hide at Bassingbourn, (fn. 186)
which by the 1260s probably belonged to Matthew
or to John le Goys of Dunton (Beds.). (fn. 187) John le
Goys held GOYSES manor in 1302. (fn. 188) Roger le
Goys died holding 80 a. there of the Frevilles in
1345. His son and heir John, then aged 16, (fn. 189) was
perhaps the Sir John Goys murdered c. 1355. (fn. 190) Sir
Thomas Goys, to whom Gaunt granted an annuity
from Richmonds manor in 1372, (fn. 191) died in 1381. (fn. 192) In
1386 Thomas Senhous, one of his coheirs, released
his estates, including the Bassingbourn land, to
three Londoners. (fn. 193) In 1428 Goyses belonged to
John Kneesworth of Kneesworth (fl. 1419–36). (fn. 194) In
1457 John Bentley and his wife Joan, its heiress,
conveyed it with 140 a. and ¼ of Rowses to feoffees. (fn. 195)
Joan and her second husband Thomas Watson were
dead by 1500 when her son Richard Bentley reclaimed Goyses from Richard Lynne who had
acquired it on paying Joan's debts. (fn. 196)
In 1546 William Randall of Devon, as successor
to James Randall of Baldock (Herts.), sold Goyses
to William Bellamy. (fn. 197) In 1599 William Wright sold
'Goysshes or Busshes' manor with 80 a. to Richard
and John Adams. (fn. 198) John sold it with 40 a. in 1635
to Thomas Nightingale of Kneesworth (d. 1645), (fn. 199)
whose younger son Thomas sold it in 1648 to James
Prior. (fn. 200) Prior, or a son and namesake, resold it in
1663 to Guy Sundrey. (fn. 201) After belonging to the
Holben family Goyses was acquired by 1765 by
Geoffrey Nightingale (d. 1771). (fn. 202) It comprised in
1784 163 a., including 124 a. copyhold of other
manors. (fn. 203) The manorial rights passed with the Nightingales' Kneesworth estate to the Worthams, (fn. 204) to
whose trustees they still belonged c. 1930. (fn. 205) The
81 a. allotted for Guises farm at inclosure was sold
to its tenant in 1808, (fn. 206) and resold from 1814 in fractions, one of 35 a. being acquired by the Clears, local
farmers. (fn. 207) It remained with them until their farm,
227 a., was bought in 1920 by the County Council. (fn. 208)
A substantial estate belonged to the Turpin
family, recorded at Bassingbourn from the 1470s. (fn. 209)
John Turpin left land there to his son William in
1501. (fn. 210) William Turpin, recorded from 1535, was
probably the esquire and lawyer who died in 1575, (fn. 211)
and his second wife Jane the Mrs. Turpin who
held 112 a. of copyhold at Bassingbourn in the
1570s. When she died in 1597, (fn. 212) that land passed to
William's grandson Thomas Turpin (d. 1627), who
left it with 30 a. of freehold to his young grandson
Edward Turpin (fn. 213) (d. 1683). Edward left c. 170 a. to
be divided equally between his sons John and
Thomas, (fn. 214) who both died without issue in 1715. (fn. 215)
Their land, already heavily mortgaged in the 1690s,
was mostly sold in 1706. (fn. 216) Some 35 a. was bought
in 1712 by Valentine Beldam, a Royston brewer
(d. 1733), whose son Joseph (fn. 217) bought another 121 a.
of it in 1743 (fn. 218) and c. 215 a., including 120 a. once
owned by a cadet branch of the Lynnes, in 1761. (fn. 219)
Joseph, also a brewer, died in 1765, leaving much
land to his nephew Joseph Beldam (d. 1804), who
held c. 330 a. before inclosure, and the former
Turpin lands to a great-nephew, another Joseph,
who owned 167 a. in 1780 (fn. 220) and died c. 1830. Under
a settlement of 1826 all the 362 a. allotted to both
Josephs at inclosure, with 58 a. bought from a
kinsman, passed in 1831 to the younger Joseph's
nephews, (fn. 221) Charles (d. s.p. 1870) and Valentine, who
acquired all the Bassingbourn lands by exchanges
after 1861. Valentine died without issue in 1875,
and his brother and heir Edward in 1876. Edward's
son, F. W. E. Beldam of Toft Manor, inherited
those lands, (fn. 222) and offered c. 470 a., including Hoy's
and Bellevue farms, for sale in 1920. (fn. 223) Bellevue
farm, 131 a., was bought in 1921 by the Cambridgeshire county council, which after other purchases
owned c. 535 a. in Bassingbourn in 1977. (fn. 224)
Sawtry abbey (Hunts.) had in 1291 property at
Bassingbourn, not recorded later. (fn. 225) The origins of
the Nightingale estate in Bassingbourn, which before inclosure covered c. 180 a., are treated with
that family's estate in Kneesworth. (fn. 226)
The impropriate rectory, owned from 1503 by
Westminster abbey, included, besides the great
tithes, c. 80 a. of glebe in Bassingbourn and 13 a. in
Kneesworth. (fn. 227) It was leased c. 1520 to Anthony
Malory, (fn. 228) and later to the Bolnests, its tenants
from the 1540s until c. 1585, latterly under John
Parker, (fn. 229) who had procured by 1565 a 60-year lease
from the dean and chapter of Westminster. (fn. 230) The
rent, set at £50 by 1540 (fn. 231) and remaining fixed at
£75 from 1634 to the 19th century, (fn. 232) left potential
profits of up to £200 for the head lessee and his
undertenant; (fn. 233) and the 1580s and 1590s saw continual competition between local men and outsiders
carried on amid intense chicanery, intimidation,
and the forcible seizure of crops, for possession of
the headlease and underleases. (fn. 234) From 1634 the
rectory was let on 21-year beneficial leases. The
first such lessee, Sir William Meredith, (fn. 235) sold the
lease in 1654 to Henry Lynne's son John (d. c.
1660). (fn. 236) The rectory house was occupied until the
1690s by Granado Pigott (d. 1724) of Abington
Pigotts, lessee from 1684. (fn. 237) The lease remained with
his son Granado (d. 1768) and grandson Granado, (fn. 238)
who sold it in 1775. (fn. 239) At inclosure in 1804 50 a.
were allotted for the rectorial glebe, and 688 a. for
the great tithes. (fn. 240) The beneficial lease belonged to
the Fordhams of Melbourn by 1818, (fn. 241) and to the
Nunns of Royston from 1861 until it ran out in
1882, after the rectorial estate had been ceded in
1869 to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. They
acquired most of the vicarial glebe in 1906, but
sold 565 a. of their 890 a. at Bassingbourn, including Rectory farm, in 1920, and the other 325 a.,
called Ivy farm, to its tenants in 1957. (fn. 242)
The parsonage house, recorded from c. 1520, (fn. 243)
probably stood then as later in a close north of the
church. In 1556 it had a great chamber, two others,
and a parlour. (fn. 244) It was substantially rebuilt from a
ruinous state in the 1580s, (fn. 245) and had 7 hearths in
1674. (fn. 246) In the 1740s it was again rebuilt in red
brick as a gentleman's residence by Granado Pigott
(d. 1768), whose family occupied it until 1773. (fn. 247)
Shortly afterwards most of the house was burnt out
and demolished, the southern half only being preserved as a farmhouse for Rectory farm. (fn. 248)
Economic History.
Of some 9½ hides in
Bassingbourn in 1086 two thirds lay in demesne.
The Richmond manor with 4 hides included 18
ploughlands, the two other manors had one hide
each. The rest belonged mostly to 7 villani, 17 bordars and 10 cottars having smaller holdings. There
was land for 22 plough-teams, but only 19 were
available, of which the demesnes supplied only the
7 for which they had meadow, and the villani the
rest. The yield of the Richmond manor had, since
Count Alan received it, been raised from £26 to
£30, perhaps at the expense of the 10 sokemen who
had once held of it; that of the other manors had
been restored to the level of 1066. (fn. 249)
The demesnes occupied almost half the arable
until the 16th century. Castle manor had 296 a. in
1279, (fn. 250) and its former dependency Seymours 260 a.
in 1316. (fn. 251) In 1570 they had respectively 330 a.
and 185 a. (fn. 252) Rowses manor had c. 60 a. in the late
13th century, (fn. 253) Goyses 80 a. in 1345, (fn. 254) and the two
c. 55 a. and 50 a. in 1570. (fn. 255) Those manors had,
however, few customary tenants to work them.
Although Warin of Bassingbourn's land was worth
£30 a year in 1269, he had only 3 villeins, holding
crofts. (fn. 256) Goyses in 1345 had only 1 bondman, and
Rowses in 1306 only rent-paying free tenants. (fn. 257) In
1570 Castle and Seymours included only 20 a. of
freehold tenant land and c. 110 a. of copyhold, and
Rowses and Goyses c. 63 of freehold and no copyhold. (fn. 258) Almost two thirds of the arable lay within
Richmonds manor. (fn. 259) Whereas in 1570 the other
demesnes lay mainly in strips of 3 a. or less, no
larger than those of the peasantry, Richmonds then
included almost 250 a. in blocks of 10 a. or more,
sometimes of over 20 a. They lay especially near the
southern edge of the parish, implying a privileged
position when waste land had been brought under
the plough. (fn. 260)
Richmonds demesne was reckoned as 5 carucates c. 1250, and 548 a., besides 60 a. of inclosed
pasture, in 1280. Its 42 customary tenants each then
occupied half-yardlands averaging 20–25 a. In 1629
c. 1,380 a. of copyhold arable, divided among some
80 tenants, were held of Richmonds, and c. 1804
c. 1,205 a. of copyhold, but only 20 a. of freehold.
In 1280 freeholds had been occupied by 7 sokemen
owing only ploughing works, and later, until 1436,
assize rents totalling only in. 3d. Another 22 free
tenants, rendering in 1280 £2 rent, may like the
23 cottagers have possessed only their dwellings.
The customary tenants then owed regular labour
services, commuted at £10 135. 6d. a year, besides
pannage, carrying services, ploughing 8 times a
year, and harvest boons. Later, in the 13th and 14th
centuries, besides paying by 1295 £11 5s. of assize
rents, perhaps in place of weekwork, they were
liable to heavy tallages, (fn. 261) fixed, however, by 1435
at £6 a year, still due c. 1500.
The demesne was in hand from the late 12th century (fn. 262) to the early 14th. (fn. 263) In 1295 its staff included
a salaried bailiff, 4 ploughmen, and a shepherd. The
reeve drawn from the customary tenants with a
messor supervised the harvest work. Men were
hired for reaping and threshing. Rent collection
probably replaced direct cultivation in the mid 14th
century. By 1347 over half the demesne was at
farm, as was probably that of Castle manor. (fn. 264) First,
c. 320 a. of arable, called the Old Bury land, were
leased to various villagers at 15d. an acre, then
240 a. more, the New Bury land, at 18d. Another
95 a. in the lord's hands, including 10 a. forfeited
by a bondman who had fled, were also leased out, as
were the demesne meadows. After 1360, as demand
for land fell, reductions of rent were allowed, £17
14s. under John of Gaunt and Queen Anne, £4
more from the duke of Bedford, cutting the rental
from £43 to £22 by 1500. By 1439 the Old Bury
land yielded only 6d. an acre, the New 12d. The
assized rents, £11 8s. in 1435, and the receipts
from sales of extraordinary works, then £13 9s.,
were consolidated by 1500 to produce rents from
the copyholds of £28 a year, raised by 1628 to £37.
At first the leased demesne like peasant landownership was widely distributed. In 1439 two men
had 30 a. each out of 180 a. of it, 9 others between
22½ a. and 5 a. On a third of the manor eight men
possessed 10 copyhold half-yardlands, four others
quarter-yardlands. By 1570 the copyholders also
occupied in parcels over 125 a. of 'broke' land, so
called by 1439, perhaps former tenant land which
had passed through the lord's hands. By 1567, however, the Old and New Bury lands, then estimated
to include 285 a. and 253 a., were no longer dispersed among many tenants. Instead the Duchy
council let the whole, at £24 a year for a long term
or for lives, to a single lessee, sometimes a favoured
courtier, who sublet, or sold the lease, at a profit to
one or two prominent villagers. In 1594 the demesne
was let to Richard Waller and another. In 1610
William Waller offered the Crown lessee £1,150
for the lease. (fn. 265) In 1626 it was granted for lives, to
Thomas Archer and Nicholas Curtis, prosperous
local landowners. (fn. 266)
Similar changes occurred on other manors. Between 1575 and 1588 John Lynne let c. 260 a. of
Seymours demesne for 21-year terms to 12 men,
several taking less than 15 a. The largest holding
was 105 a. (fn. 267) By the 1590s Lynne was letting that,
with 200 a. more, to Peter Linge, an outsider who
also retained until his death in 1595 the leases of
the rectory and of Richmonds manor mill. (fn. 268) William
Thurgar, lessee of the glebe from 1606, (fn. 269) also occupied much of Richmonds demesne as sub-tenant,
and borrowed so heavily to finance his extensive
tenancies that he owed Sir Giles Alington and others
over £1,200 when he died bankrupt c. 1617. (fn. 270)
The tenantry of Bassingbourn found John Lynne
a grasping and overbearing lord and neighbour. He
pursued bitterly lawsuits with the yeomen occupying the fragments of Rowses manor, (fn. 271) and energetically enlarged his estates from the 515 a. of 1570,
buying up copyholds or claiming them as forfeit
on technical grounds, (fn. 272) or as parcels of former
demesne. He also sought to convert copyholds of
inheritance to ones for terms of years, and raised
admission fines, ignoring previous agreements that
had fixed them at half the rent. (fn. 273) Allegedly he
ploughed up the bounds of one 70-a. copyhold
which he held on lease, to assimilate it to his
demesne. (fn. 274) The copyholders on the royal manor of
Richmonds were better placed. By 1629 they were
claiming that by long usage their admission fines
were certain, being set at 6s. 8d. for a half-yardland,
and at 6d. or 4d. an acre for unattached copyhold
and 'broke' land, equivalent to its customary rent.
In 1660 Sir Thomas Hatton challenged the alleged
custom, demanding fines of half the copyholds'
yearly value. Nine copyholders sued him in Chancery, (fn. 275) and by 1672 had won their suit. (fn. 276) Thereafter the copyholders of Richmonds paid, even in
the 20th century, fines only equal to their ancient
and exiguous rents. Fines on the other manors
remained arbitrary. (fn. 277) Enfranchisement of copyholds
began in the 1860s. (fn. 278)
In 1570 over 5/6 of the parish, 2,945 a. by local
measures, were included in the open fields, which
occupied its southern half, and the eastern part of
its northern half. No large units were then recorded,
the arable being divided into numerous small furlongs, some called fields. The larger ones of 75–
80 a., including the 'Great field' (135 a.), lay
mostly south of Ashwell Street, whereas north and
east of the village few furlongs exceeded 20 a.
Probably cultivation had been gradually extended
southwards over former heath beyond that road,
still recalled by the name 'Heath Shot'. (fn. 279) After 1600
distinctions were sometimes drawn between the
Low field north of the village and the High field
further south; Brook field, presumably to the west,
was also mentioned. (fn. 280) By the mid 17th century
some estates had their arable divided between the
East, Middle, and West fields, (fn. 281) as was that of the
parsonage, somewhat unequally, in 1725. (fn. 282) They
were probably identical with the fields of those
names, running north and south, recorded at inclosure. East field then covered c. 950 a., Middle field
c. 830 a., and West field, which did not run the
whole length of the parish, c. 795 a. Another 55 a.
of arable, called the Field lands, later the Fillance,
lay surrounded by closes just north of the village. (fn. 283)
Common pastures, covering in 1628 c. 60 a.,
were scattered among the open fields; the largest,
Iron leys (35 a.) lay north-east of the village. In the
north-west corner of the parish, low-lying and not
easily drained, lay the Fen, then reckoned at 100 a., (fn. 284)
and presumably identical with the marsh over which
the villagers had common rights in 1279. (fn. 285) At inclosure it covered 210 a. (fn. 286) Land inclosed in severalty
covered in 1695 c. 290 a., of which 155 a. belonged
to the united manors, including c. 140 a., probably
derived from Castle and Seymours manors, extending continuously from North End to the northern
boundary. (fn. 287)
The Rowses demesne was under a biennial rotation in 1267, (fn. 288) but by 1340, when an unsuccessful
Lenten sowing was recorded, a triennial one may
have been in force; 400 a. of arable, however, were
then lying waste. (fn. 289) On the Richmonds demesne in
1295 the wheat crop of 95 a. yielded 70 qr. but there
were also 148 qr. of dredge, 21 of maslin, and 48 of
pease. (fn. 290) The principal peasant crop was barley. In
1359 the late rector had possessed, perhaps from
tithes, 300 qr. of dredge to 50 of wheat and 40 of
pease. (fn. 291) and in 1593 the rectory sub-lessee was
required to render 500 quarters of barley probably
from the tithes in his rent. (fn. 292) William Bolnest
(d. 1587) mentioned the tilth and 'broke' lands, and
ordered that next year 10 a. be sown with wheat,
20 a. with rye and bullymong, 20 a. with peas, and
the rest that was cropped of his 150 a. with barley
'according to the season used in the common
fields'. (fn. 293) Flax was grown c. 1305 in closes, (fn. 294) and
saffron by 1540, possibly in the fields. (fn. 295) In the 17th
century Bassingbourn was also noted for cherries. (fn. 296)
Many closes were orchards in 1695. (fn. 297)
There were 200 sheep on the manors in 1086. (fn. 298)
In 1347 the village contributed to a levy of wool
136 stone, perhaps representing a flock of c. 1,100.
Sheep owning was then widespread. Only 34 stone,
half from Richmonds manor, came from the
demesne flocks, while 46 stone was provided by 33
people delivering 1 or 2 stone each, and the rest
from 133 others, including 114 giving 7 lb. or less. (fn. 299)
In the 17th century the Fen was reserved for cows
from April until October, when it passed to the
sheep which had since harvest used the 'stray common' on the fallow and stubble, not coming north of
Ashwell Street until after Michaelmas. Horses fed
on the lesser commons in the sown fields. (fn. 300) The customary stints were, for horses and cows, 2 for every
commonable messuage, and 1 for every 40 a. of
arable owned, and for sheep 20, reduced briefly in
1634, and finally from 1648 to 14, for every 40 a.
Newly built cottages were excluded in 1634 from
having rights of common. Villagers were forbidden
to take in outsiders' cattle, (fn. 301) although from 1650
those without cows of their own were compensated
by the parish for not hiring out unused cow commons. (fn. 302) At inclosure common rights were allowed
for the 120 cows then kept. (fn. 303) Sheep-farming had then
long been restricted largely to the bigger properties.
The keeping of by-flocks was frequently forbidden,
although some prominent villagers ignored the prohibition. The flockmasters too sometimes overcharged the common. (fn. 304) From the late 17th century
there were five authorized folds, of c. 240 sheep each;
the Bury flock and that of Castle manor belonged to
the Hattons, the rest being divided into thirds and
quarters among lesser landowners. (fn. 305) At inclosure
rights of sheepwalk were claimed for c. 1,150 sheep,
the number then kept. (fn. 306) There was some dispute
whether the owners of Kneesworth were entitled to
keep sheep on the Bassingbourn commons. (fn. 307)
From the 16th century there was a substantial
division between the few prosperous yeomen and a
poorer majority. Of the £377 assessed on Bassingbourn in 1524, Thomas Lynne possessed £44 and
2 others, one a Bolnest, £48 together; 15 others
with £5–20 each had £137, but 37, taxed on less
than £5, had only £80 between them, and 54, half
the recorded population, were taxed only on their
wages. (fn. 308) In the 1620s over 560 a. of the 1,380 a. of
copyhold arable belonged to only 7 out of c. 80
tenants. (fn. 309) Under Charles II of c. 135 houses almost
110 had only 1 or 2 hearths, and barely 20 had 4 or
more. (fn. 310)
Among the more prominent landowning families
were those of Bolnest, Waller or Warren, Curtis, and
Archer, and the Turpins, styled gentlemen from
c. 1560, as were the Archers after 1650. (fn. 311) John
Bolnest, lessee of the rectory (d. 1556), left £386
among his family. (fn. 312) His son William (d. 1587) owned
c. 90 a. of freehold, besides his father's copyholds. (fn. 313)
The Archers owned 80 a. under Charles I, and
leased part of the Bury land from the 1640s to the
1670s. (fn. 314) In the 18th century their 165 a. passed by
marriage to the Butterfields after 1740. (fn. 315)
The Hatton estate comprised in 1695 c. 480 a. of
Bury land and 572 a. derived from the Lynnes. (fn. 316)
By 1800 it covered 1,236 a., including 221 a. of old
inclosures, and was mostly divided between three
substantial farms, of 530 a., 483 a., and 106 a. The
Nightingales then had c. 180 a., Caius College 100
a., and the impropriators 107 a. The two Joseph
Beldams owned c. 500 a., and three local men and
one other had c. 810 a., including the 275 a. of
Thomas Prime, who had bought the Wallers' 150 a.
Another 360 a. were divided among 20 men, including many outsiders. (fn. 317) Earlier in the 18th century
c. 320 a. had been occupied by Royston men, (fn. 318) and
by 1800 17 of c. 70 men with land in Bassingbourn
lived at Royston and 14 others elsewhere outside
the parish. (fn. 319)
The arable was still then devoted mainly to the
traditional crops. In 1772 tithe was said to be due
from 400–450 a. each of wheat, sown mainly north
of Ashwell Street, and barley, 500 a. of oats, and
200 a. of beans. A third of c. 300 a. of grass was
mown yearly. (fn. 320) Some seed crops were later introduced. At inclosure the vicar claimed tithe of clover,
trefoil, and cinquefoil, and of turnips and potatoes; (fn. 321)
and seed was then bought at London for sowing
trefoil and red clover, apparently on the open
fields. (fn. 322)
The inclosure act, promoted by some middling
landowners, was obtained in 1801. (fn. 323) The fields were
divided in 1804, and the award was executed in
1806. (fn. 324) The area to be allotted comprised 2,868 a.
of open fields and commons. There were also 348 a.
of old inclosures. After 739 a. had been allotted
for the rectorial, and 150 a. for the vicarial, glebe
and tithes, c. 570 a. remained to the Hattons, and
136 a. to the Nightingale estate. The two Beldams
received 210 a. and 127 a., and three substantial
resident farmers, John Archer Butterfield, Samuel
Flitton, and Thomas Prime 122 a., 142 a., and 140 a.
respectively. Five other landowners with 40–100 a.
obtained almost 300 a., and 19 others with under
40 a. barely 130 a., while c. 50 a. were allotted in
2-a. plots to 23 men for common rights. Small
allotments to Royston men in the corner adjoining
that town were gradually built over. (fn. 325)
By 1834, when there were only 150 a. of grassland, 500 a. were owned by outsiders, who employed
very few of the resident labourers. (fn. 326) The farmland
was mostly shared among 6 or 7 large farms. (fn. 327) The
former Hatton estate was divided into Manor farm
to the north, c. 300 a. in the 1850s, and Bury farm
south of the village, c. 400 a. in 1871, leased to the
Lilley family from the 1810s to the 1880s. The beneficial lessee of the rectory sometimes divided its
land. The largest segment, Rectory farm north of
the village, which contained 466 a. in 1851, but
only 328 a. in 1861, was again separated after 1895,
covering c. 335 a., while the land in the south,
following a demand for smallholdings, was divided
into lots mostly under 50 a. (fn. 328) The Beldams farmed
their land, in the south-east part of the parish,
directly through a bailiff until the late 1870s when it
was divided into Hoy's farm (274 a.) to the south
and Bellevue farm (131 a.). (fn. 329) Of the lesser estates
the Butterfield property was broken up and sold by
1850, (fn. 330) but the Flitton and Prime farms, west of
the village, remained in those families for over a
century. The former was farmed by Samuel Flitton's
descendants until the 1930s, the latter let from the
1830s to the Clears, who occupied 310 a. in 1871.
Poplar farm (120 a.), owned and farmed by the
Sell family, was sold after a bankruptcy in 1883. (fn. 331)
Several smallholders survived, farming their own
lands without outside help. In 1831 8 only of 16
farmers were employing labourers, and in 1851
8 substantial farmers occupied 1,800 a., while 14
others, using very little outside labour, were farming
c. 50 a. On Manor farm Clark Hales kept from the
late 1850s to the 1870s a flock of prize-winning
pedigree long-woolled sheep, specimens of which
were exported even to America and Australia. (fn. 332) In
the early 20th century there were usually 9 or 10
farms of 100 a. or more, after 1950 5, including in
1955 one of 635 a. The number of smallholders with
under 50 a. declined from 67 in 1885 to 45 by
1925, and 16 by the 1970s, when they were mostly
market gardeners. (fn. 333)
Employment, when available, was still provided
mainly on the farms. In 1831 185 families, an increase of 40 since 1811, depended on agriculture,
while only 56 were supported by trades and crafts. (fn. 334)
One farmer was using a threshing machine by
1814. (fn. 335) In 1827 the labourers rioted over the introduction of Irishmen for the harvest, and in December 1830 one farmer's straw stack was fired. (fn. 336) Of
the 167 adult labourers and 77 boys recorded
c. 1830, 35–40 were usually unemployed. They were
assisted by letting 70 a. as allotments. (fn. 337) In 1851 the
larger farmers were employing, at an average of
1 man for 20 a., scarcely over 100 of the 200 adult
farm labourers. (fn. 338) Discontent among them was probably a cause of an outbreak of arson in 1849 when
fires were started at 11 farms, and 6 farmsteads
entirely destroyed. (fn. 339) Another bout late in 1858 saw
5 farmsteads fired and 2 burnt down. (fn. 340) By the early
1860s some extra work came from coprolite digging,
on which c. 180 men were engaged by 1864. C.
Cooper, the contractor c. 1865, a local man (fn. 341) was
succeeded by 1869 by William Colchester, an engineer from Ipswich, who in 1871 employed 78 men
at it. About 60 men, a third of them recent arrivals,
were then working in the diggings, but c. 220 men
and boys still needed work on the farms, (fn. 342) and in
1873 55 labourers' families were on parish relief. (fn. 343)
Coprolite digging, although hampered by underground water, continued mostly on the rectory
estate into the late 1880s, but had ceased by 1895. (fn. 344)
Before 1920 F. W. E. Beldam was letting 13 a.
south of the causeway for allotments. (fn. 345) The number
of adult labourers regularly employed fell from 70
in the 1920s to 50 by the 1950s and c. 30 in 1977. (fn. 346)
Farming had become less profitable since 1880.
The rents of the rectory farms were cut from £950
in 1882 to £525 by 1897, that of the vicar's glebe
from £308 c. 1887 to £87 by 1906, that is from £2
to 15s. an acre. (fn. 347) During the agricultural depression
the area under wheat and barley, usually sown in
the proportion of six to eight, fell only slightly; that
of permanent grass, however, increased from 180 a.
in 1885 to c. 240 a. from 1905 to the 1920s. In 1977
two thirds of c. 2,750 a. of arable were still growing
wheat and barley. Sheep farming had declined, the
number of mature sheep falling from over 2,200 in
1866 to c. 1,000 from 1885 to 1925, after which it
ceased. Instead more pigs were kept: their numbers
rose from 725 in 1925 to 2,300 by 1977, when the
number of poultry had trebled since 1955 to nearly
28,000. Potatoes and cabbages were grown from the
1860s, sugar beet from the 1920s, and over 350 a.
of vegetables in 1977, when there were extensive
glasshouses beside the Old North Road. From the
1880s there were nearly 70 a. of fruit, including in
1925 c. 3,000 apples and 2,500 plums and pears,
besides greengages and quinces. (fn. 348)
By c. 1250 Richmonds manor included a water
mill, (fn. 349) probably on the site, north-west of its manor
house, still occupied by such a mill in the 20th century. In the 1470s the lord agreed to provide the
millstones and water wheels and do other major
repairs at his own expense. (fn. 350) It was sold separately
from the manor in 1611, (fn. 351) but repurchased by
Thomas Willett in 1654, (fn. 352) and remained with the
manor until sold again soon after inclosure. (fn. 353) From
c. 1840 it was owned and run by the Waldock family,
who employed 7 men and 5 boys there in 1851,
when it also ground bones and oil cake. (fn. 354) In 1881,
when it also had steam machinery, it was sold to
J. P. Clarke, (fn. 355) whose descendants worked it until
1962. The old water wheel continued in use until
1959. (fn. 356) By 1970 it had been sold, the 18th-century
miller's house and the timber framed mill building
across the stream being both converted by 1975 to
private houses. A water mill attached to Castle
manor in 1269 has not been traced later. (fn. 357)
Millfield north-west of the village (fn. 358) was probably
named from a Litlington windmill. Bassingbourn
had three windmills in the 19th century. One, a
smock mill, built by 1818 ½ mile west of the village
for grinding oilcake, was worked from the 1830s to
the 1890s by the Dickason family, and perhaps
demolished c. 1900. (fn. 359) Another smock mill, built
c. 1839 in the Fen, north of the Abington road, was
worked from the 1840s to the 1890s by the Waldock
family. It had closed by 1902. (fn. 360) A third, a brick
tower mill, just north of the causeway, latterly
belonging to the Nunn family, was later given
battlements and nicknamed by 1909 'John of Gaunt's
Tower'. It was converted by the 1930s for residential use, but was derelict in the 1950s. (fn. 361)
In 1253 Henry III granted to Peter of Savoy a
weekly market on Mondays and an 8-day fair from
28 June. (fn. 362) The grant was renewed, after apparent
desuetude, for John, duke of Brittany, in 1335 and
John of Gaunt in 1344. (fn. 363) By 1435 the market had
long ceased to be held, and the site of its stalls stood
empty. (fn. 364) That may have been the market place at
Walton green, recorded c. 1500, when it was overgrown with willows and treated as common land. (fn. 365)
Nevertheless shops were still being rented from
Richmonds manor in the 1430s, as was a forge, (fn. 366)
perhaps already standing by the cross as one did in
the 19th century. (fn. 367) Craftsmen recorded at Bassingbourn during the Middle Ages included a weaver in
1417, a fuller in 1431, (fn. 368) and a smith, carpenter, and
wheelwright c. 1500. (fn. 369) A weaver, with his own workshop, and a dyer were there in 1677, (fn. 370) and a tanner
in 1698. (fn. 371) Another tanner went bankrupt in 1791. (fn. 372)
Property south-east of the crossroads was still called
the Tan office or Tanyard in the 19th century. (fn. 373) A
limekiln stood at South End before 1800. (fn. 374) Besides
butchers, bakers, several grocers, and other shopkeepers, there were in 1841 6 smiths, 17 carpenters
and 7 wheelwrights, 7 shoemakers and 5 tailors, and
in 1861 8, 11 and 4, 9 and 7, respectively. Most of
the individual craftsmen disappeared by the 1920s.
Among the longest-established businesses, which
survived until after 1940, were those of the Morley
family, by 1850 producing harness and saddlery,
and the Keffords, working as blacksmiths from the
1840s and from 1905 as wheelwrights. The Worboys family, timber-merchants from the 1870s, also
operated a builder's yard between 1900 and 1930. (fn. 375)
Steam-driven machinery was coming into use in the
1860s, probably first for transport in the coprolite
diggings. (fn. 376) There were 11 engine drivers in 1871, (fn. 377)
and in 1873 Samuel Wilkerson opened an agricultural engineer's business, making farm tools and
later selling steam tractors, binders, and similar
machines, imported from America. (fn. 378) The firm was
still in business in the 1970s. The coprolite diggings
also caused industrial activity. In 1871 William
Colchester employed 11 men in an iron foundry and
engineer's shop, damaged by fire in 1887. As the
Bassingbourn Iron Works, it probably produced
coprolite grinding machinery and later farm tools
into the 1890s, and was making bicycles in 1896. (fn. 379)
About 1900 its workshops were taken over by
Heatley and Gresham, who made motor-cars, employing c. 50 men. Besides 'Rational' cars, some exported to India, they produced some of the earliest
motor-taxis used in London. In 1905 they moved
to Letchworth to be nearer to a railway. (fn. 380) Another
engineering firm, Permanex Ltd., was open from
1955 to after 1968, (fn. 381) and in the 1970s A. S. Playle
owned a workshop producing moulded plastic. (fn. 382)
Local Government.
In the 13th century
the lords of Richmonds had view of frankpledge,
infangthief, the assize of bread and of ale, and a
gallows and tumbrel. Edmund of Bassingbourn was
said to have the same franchises, except infangthief,
in 1275. (fn. 383) A Gallow Hill south of the village was
mentioned in 1567. (fn. 384) In 1436–7 2 leets and 8 courts
baron were held for Richmonds manor, but by
1497–8 only 2 leets and 2 courts a year. (fn. 385) In the
early 17th century its courts leet were held once a
year, usually in April, with occasional courts baron
in the intervals. (fn. 386) The other manors had then only
courts baron. (fn. 387) Richmonds leet regularly nominated
one or two constables, and occasionally aletasters, a
reeve, and a hayward to assist them. To enforce the
bylaws regulating agricultural practice, which it continued to pass, renew, and sometimes enforce, until
1708, it appointed another hayward for the fields,
and two or four men to survey the fields and common pastures. (fn. 388) That leet also sometimes enforced
the duty of bringing carts to repair highways, or
penalized the taking-in of inmates without the consent of the homage. (fn. 389) From the 1670s its public
functions were taken over by the parish meeting,
and after 1672 its records were almost entirely concerned with title to copyhold. Court rolls survive
for 1626–60 and 1672–1702, (fn. 390) and court minute
books, gradually converted into formal court books,
for 1645–60 and 1672–1938. (fn. 391) By 1700 the courts
baron for Castle, Seymours, and Rowses manors
had been combined. Court books, containing only
copyhold title deeds, survive for 1709–1939. (fn. 392) The
records of Goyses manor had been burnt before
1800, when no court had been held for many
years, (fn. 393) but a court book exists for 1804–1929. (fn. 394) By
1458 the impropriator was holding courts leet for a
few copyholders of the rectory, and courts baron
for them were held from the 16th century to 1800. (fn. 395)
Around 1500 the churchwardens were raising
money for the parish by selling rights to dig clay
and pasture beasts on the commons, (fn. 396) and by the
lopping of willow-trees on the village green. They
still claimed the right to lop them c. 1630. (fn. 397) From
the late 17th century they and the constables and
overseers were named annually at meetings in April.
Only one constable was chosen a year from 1700 to
1806. Despite penalties for absence the monthly
vestries at the public houses to hear the overseers'
accounts were usually attended only by 5–8 prominent farmers. Larger assemblies, of up to 20, gathered for special business, such as regulating rights
of pasturage in 1750 and 1783, leasing the town land
in 1805, or fixing opening hours for beerhouses
in 1806. (fn. 398) Monthly meetings, at which the overseers
received advice, were still held in 1834. (fn. 399)
In the early 18th century the poor rate, averaging
£60–80 a year, was spent mainly on the weekly
collection, distributed to the aged poor, including
c. 14 widows, some with children. About 1750 the
collection, £4–5 a month, was given among 15–20
people in weekly doles of 6d. to 1s. 6d. A workhouse
was rented in 1758. The matron engaged to run it
in 1760 received 1s. a week to maintain each inmate.
There were seven in 1769. Poor relief rose from
£92 in 1750 to £150 a year in the 1760s, and had
reached £280 c. 1785 and almost £900 by 1800.
Those receiving regular outside relief, mostly still
women and children, numbered 20 in the 1790s, 25
by 1799, and 35–40 in the early 1810s. The number
in the workhouse, 10 in 1803, but only 5 or 6 before
1815, rose by 1817 to 20 before declining to 11 by
1820, and 6, out of 25 on relief, in 1827. From a
fresh peak of £782 in 1813 (fn. 400) the annual cost of
relief fell to c. £750 by 1819 and £550–600 in the
early 1820s, but usually again exceeded £700 after
1827 and had reached almost £1,000 by 1833, (fn. 401)
although the workhouse was then disused. (fn. 402) After
1830 over a third of the total spent went to widows,
children, the old, and the sick, and barely a tenth
on casual and occasional relief. Adult labourers
were, however, assisted by the parish spending sums
rising from c. £150 in 1829 to £300 by 1835 as
wages for gravel digging and road mending. In 1834
40 men were so employed by it. (fn. 403) Its roads had been
in a very poor state at inclosure, when those to
Abington and Wendy barely escaped being stopped
up as too decayed to be public highways. (fn. 404) When in
December 1831 the vestry invited an overseer from
Baldock to advise them how to manage the poor
more efficiently, the labourers mobbed him and
forced him to flee. (fn. 405) In 1833 116 labourers were
intended to be apportioned among the farmers in
proportion to their share of the poor rate. (fn. 406)
From 1835 Bassingbourn was included in the
Royston poor law union, (fn. 407) whose workhouse was
built on the outskirts of Royston, just within the
parish. Despite a demonstration against it in 1835
by the labourers of the neighbourhood, roused by
two radical curates, it was completed in 1836. (fn. 408) The
village had a resident police constable from the
1840s, (fn. 409) and its own fire engine by 1849. (fn. 410) From
1894 it was included in the Melbourn R.D., with
which it was incorporated in 1934 into the South
Cambridgeshire R.D., (fn. 411) and in 1974 became part of
the South Cambridgeshire district.
Church.
The modern ecclesiastical parish of
Bassingbourn also includes Kneesworth, which had
once its own chapel, but was gradually incorporated
into Bassingbourn from the 15th century. (fn. 412) Part of
Royston town also lay within Bassingbourn parish.
Its inhabitants were already paying their small tithes
to Royston priory by 1400, (fn. 413) but when Royston
obtained its own parish church under an act of
1540 the right of the incumbents of Bassingbourn
to the tithe of their farmland was reserved. (fn. 414) The
area gradually built up during the 19th-century
growth of Royston was separated from Bassingbourn ecclesiastically in 1890. (fn. 415) Rights of Wendy
church in Bassingbourn, perhaps over copyholds of
Wendy manor, were apparently compounded for a
£2 pension, paid from the 16th century out of
Bassingbourn rectory to the vicar of Wendy. (fn. 416)
The church of Bassingbourn, established by
1200, originally belonged to Richmonds manor,
whose possessors exercised its advowson until the
14th century. (fn. 417) About 1130 Count Stephen, lord of
Richmond, granted tithes there to St. Mary's
abbey, York, (fn. 418) whose dependent cell of Rumburgh
(Suff.) enjoyed between 1250 and 1350 a portion of
5½ marks. (fn. 419) In 1385 Richard II granted the advowson of the rectory to the royal free chapel of St.
Martin's-le-Grand, with a licence for its appropriation. (fn. 420) In 1411, upon the death of the last rector,
the appropriation was finally accomplished under a
papal bull of 1410. (fn. 421)
St. Martin's retained the appropriated rectory
until 1503 when Henry VII granted all its possessions to Westminster abbey. (fn. 422) In 1542 Bassingbourn
rectory, with the abbey's other property, was
assigned to the dean and chapter of Westminster, (fn. 423)
who retained it, except under Mary (fn. 424) and during
the Interregnum, (fn. 425) until in 1869 with most of their
other lands it was ceded to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. (fn. 426)
The rectory was valuable, being taxed at 40
marks c. 1217, £80 in 1254, and £60 from the
1270s. (fn. 427) The notables and foreigners appointed by
its noble, often foreign, patrons were usually absentees. Early rectors included in 1206 Mr. Humphrey
of Bassingbourn, archdeacon of Salisbury, (fn. 428) and
c. 1214 King John's minister Richard Marsh. (fn. 429) In
1294 the rector, possibly a Gascon, was overseas,
serving his patron, the duke of Brittany. (fn. 430) Gerard
de Cusance, rector c. 1323, was a clerk of John, earl
of Richmond, (fn. 431) and the next rector probably a
kinsman of the Savoyard bailiff of Richmonds
manor. (fn. 432) Queen Philippa's nominee in 1349 was not
in priest's orders, and was licensed in 1353 to be
absent for two years. (fn. 433) Most of the royal presentments from the 1330s were of clerks in the king's
service. (fn. 434) The last rector, Robert Whitby, who had
secured the living despite a royal nomination in
1391, had served John of Gaunt, and was nonresident in 1400. (fn. 435)
The rectors occasionally resided, (fn. 436) or took some
interest in their living. Roger Goldburn, rector c.
1374–80, (fn. 437) gave the church a mass book and vestments, still in use over a century later. (fn. 438) In 1410
Robert Whitby left £12 for the church fabric and
for 24 poor parishioners. (fn. 439) Richard Cawdray, dean
of St. Martin's 1435–58, (fn. 440) gave four service books
and several embroidered vestments. (fn. 441) The charge
of the parish, however, fell to the vicars. Their
benefice was perhaps founded in 1206, when Alan,
then rector, resigned his living, retaining, however,
for his life the perpetual vicarage with all the fruits
of the church, but paying the new rector 2 bezants
yearly as a pension. (fn. 442) The vicarage was regularly
established by the 1270s. (fn. 443) Vicars were presented
by the rectors until 1410, (fn. 444) and thereafter by the
appropriators, the dean of St. Martin's, (fn. 445) and the
abbot, (fn. 446) and later the dean and chapter, of Westminster, (fn. 447) who retained the advowson of the vicarage
in 1869. (fn. 448) They were still its patrons in 1977, presenting, since the combination of Bassingbourn
with Whaddon, alternately with the patrons of that
living. (fn. 449)
Most medieval vicars were rather poorer than
Alan had been. They had no glebe and only the
small tithes, and the vicarage was taxed at only £1
in 1254 and 7 marks in 1291, (fn. 450) and still at only £7
in 1535. (fn. 451) The vicar's income, £20 in 1650, had
risen to £80 by 1728. (fn. 452) The impropriator had since
1660 allowed him £10 a year, payable out of the
rectory, which was increased before the 1770s to
£40 a year, still paid after 1900. (fn. 453) At inclosure in
1804 the vicar was allotted 140 a. for his tithes,
including 29 a. for those from Kneesworth, and
received by exchange a 14-a. close opposite the
church. (fn. 454) His income therefore rose from £120
c. 1800 to £232 by 1830 (fn. 455) and £300 in 1851 and
1873. (fn. 456) The subsequent fall by a half of the rent
from the glebe induced the vicar to exchange 114 a.
in 1906 for stock yielding £100 a year, and to sell
another 26 a. in 1922, retaining thereafter only
the close around his residence, (fn. 457) which was sold
c. 1973. (fn. 458)
A vicarage house had been built, probably by
1330, on a small plot carved out of the south side
of the churchyard. (fn. 459) That house had 8 hearths in
1674, when the vicar lived there, (fn. 460) and was occupied
by the clergy until the early 19th century. (fn. 461) In 1845
it was replaced with a brick house in Gothic style,
built with a grant from Queen Anne's Bounty at
the northern edge of the former Richmond manor
close. (fn. 462) That house was sold c. 1973, and a smaller
residence procured. (fn. 463)
In 1378 the parish had besides the vicar two
chaplains. (fn. 464) In 1377 the vicar was charged with a
liaison with a parishioner's wife, and a chaplain,
who had quarrelled with him, with being a troublemaker, dealing in beer, and frequenting markets. (fn. 465)
In 1466 a new vicar was so much at odds with his
flock that another priest had to be called in to hear
their confessions. (fn. 466) From the 1470s the vicarage was
sometimes held by canon lawyers, who were occasionally pluralists, (fn. 467) and, becoming absentees in
their turn, left the cure to chaplains. (fn. 468) Anthony
Wharton, who acquired the living c. 1523 from a
kinsman, (fn. 469) lived in Cumberland, and let the vicarage house to a chaplain, whom he, as also his successor in 1536, hired to serve the cure. (fn. 470)
The defaults of the vicars were partly supplied
by the guilds of the Trinity, the Holy Cross, and
St. John the Baptist. In 1475 they obtained from
Richmonds manor a plot of waste upon which to
build a guildhall. (fn. 471) The Trinity guild, the most
prominent, headed by wardens, received frequent
legacies and owned by 1547 80 a. in Whaddon and
131 a. in Bassingbourn, besides a house let to the
'brotherhood priest' whom it employed. (fn. 472) Such
priests were recorded from 1498. One, John Huberd,
left a bible to the church and could afford to endow
an obit with land. His successor came from a local
family. (fn. 473) The churchwardens obtained funds for the
church, partly from frequent church ales, partly
from legacies. (fn. 474) In 1511, to pay for a new statue of
St. George completed by 1520, they promoted a
play of St. George, attended by men from 25 neighbouring villages. (fn. 475) By such methods the church was
in 1498 handsomely equipped with plate, vestments,
and 30 service books, already including two printed
mass books. (fn. 476) By 1501 the church had an organ,
sometimes played by the parish clerk's servant. (fn. 477)
In 1509 Richard Lynne left 40 a. at Wendy, whose
issues, after supporting his obit and providing alms
for 40 poor, bedridden villagers, were for church
purposes. Lynne's obit lands were sold by the
Crown in 1552, (fn. 478) as were 5 a. of other obit land,
along with the guildhall and the Whaddon land, in
1553. (fn. 479) Other land, including 7 a. called in 1503
Church piece, (fn. 480) possibly escaped confiscation, to
become the parish property, called the 'town land',
for which 4 a. were allotted at inclosure. By 1800
its income was used for the poor. (fn. 481)
In 1554 the vicar was deprived, perhaps for
marrying. (fn. 482) Between 1559 and 1564 the vicarage
was held with Barley (Herts.), by Thomas Dobbinson, who as a chaplain to Bishop Cox was frequently
absent. (fn. 483) The vicar in 1593 did not preach even
once a month. (fn. 484) John Lawson, presented in 1626, (fn. 485)
escaped ejectment, but, although called honest in
1650, was then too old and weak to serve his large
parish. (fn. 486) The Puritan evangelist Francis Holcroft,
his successor in 1655, was removed in 1660 (fn. 487) in
favour of William Scarlett, who held the living,
from 1686 with a Norfolk one, until he died, aged
nearly 80, in 1700. (fn. 488) Thomas Hewardine, vicar
1704–40, who wrote in defence of infant baptism,
also held Abington Pigotts from 1724, and the next
vicar had also a Hertfordshire living. (fn. 489) In 1717
Edward Nightingale of Kneesworth gave book cases
and £50 worth of books for a parish library, later
augmented to 867 volumes by gifts from Cambridge
colleges and local clergymen. (fn. 490) In 1900 it was
installed in new cases in the vestry under the
tower, (fn. 491) but in 1969 the books were sold to the
libraries of Cambridge and Essex universities. (fn. 492)
In 1775 the vicar was himself serving as a curate
in Surrey, but employed at Bassingbourn a curate
who held two services, preaching at one, every Sunday, and communion 4 times a year. Those practices continued until the 1830s. In 1807 there were,
despite frequent admonitions, only 5 or 6 communicants, in 1825 barely 18. After 1800 the vicars usually
resided. (fn. 493) About 1830 the aged vicar had a curate. (fn. 494)
W. H. Chapman, vicar 1833–61, claimed in 1836 to
have over 25 communicants, and in 1851 an average
attendance of 140 adults at afternoon service. (fn. 495) In
1873, when the monthly communions were attended
by up to 50 people and the vicar preached twice every
Sunday, some 600 out of 2,400 parishioners adhered
to the church. (fn. 496) In 1897, despite weekly communions
started since 1885, there were only 40 communicants. The preponderance of dissenting farmers in
the parish was thought to discourage their labourers
from church going, while those who did attend were
too poor to provide adequate funds to support the
services, whose cost fell wholly on the vicar. (fn. 497) R. H.
Boyd, vicar 1899–1934, laboured to convert the
dissenters, and in 1939 bequeathed over £5,000
for training for service abroad missionaries preferably born at Bassingbourn. (fn. 498) From 1954 the parish
was held jointly with Whaddon. (fn. 499)

The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, Bassingbourn
The church of ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL,
so called by 1494, (fn. 500) was built of field-stones and
flints. Its clunch ashlaring decayed and it was
mainly refaced in limestone in the 19th century. (fn. 501) It
consists of a chancel, aisled and clerestoried nave
with south porch and south chapel, and west tower.
The west tower, 13th-century before its rebuilding,
is in three stages. Short, thick sections from the
walls of an earlier nave survive at its east end, (fn. 502)
where they meet those of the lofty chancel, which
was rebuilt to the same width in the mid 14th century. Its three bays contain tall three-light windows,
with ogee tips and mouchette tracery, separated by
high buttresses. The five-light east window had
elaborate flowing tracery. The priest's doorway in
the north wall and the pinnacled triple sedilia and
double piscina inside are of the same period. The
first window on the north has its lower two thirds
blocked to allow for an annexed building, probably
the vestry mentioned c. 1500, (fn. 503) since demolished,
from which a low-pitched roof line, a doorway, and
a cupboard recess survive. The upper wall west of
the chancel arch is pierced with quatrefoil windows,
which perhaps lighted the rood loft. A 15th-century
rood stair is on the north side. Of the rood screen
only the eastern half with seven bays of elaborate
tracery survives. (fn. 504) The nave of six bays with octagonal piers was probably rebuilt from the east, soon
after the chancel. The bases and piers are uniform
throughout, but only the first two northern and
first southern bays have moulded arches, perhaps
suggesting a break in construction, those further
west being merely chamfered. The aisles are probably late 14th-century. Their three-light windows
have mostly late Decorated tracery under straight
heads. A slightly wider two-bay chapel occupies the
two eastern bays of the south aisle. It has a piscina
and in its east wall a four-light window with niches
in its splays over a reredos. It was perhaps the
chapel in which John Bassingbourn (d. 1420) like
his parents was buried. (fn. 505) The squat tower arch is also
probably late 14th-century, and the battlemented
clerestorey, with two-light square-headed windows,
partly corbelled out from the earlier walling, 15thcentury. The south porch has to each side traceried
arches in wood on a stone base. In it lay two 13thcentury tomb slabs, with floriated crosses, one
recently removed into the church. The octagonal
font is probably 14th-century. The chancel roof has
tiebeams with heads as bosses where they cross the
longitudinal beam. A few late-medieval benches
survive. There are several tablets to the Nightingale
family, the earliest of 1681, and in the chancel a
small monument to Henry Butler (d. 1647), with a
partly shrouded youth in white marble exposed on
a black marble slab.
In 1644 William Dowsing broke 48 superstitious
figures in the windows. (fn. 506) The altar rails, then taken
by the rectory farmer to fence his hog-yard, were still
missing in 1747. (fn. 507) The 'north chapel' off the chancel, dilapidated by 1747, (fn. 508) was later removed, the
stumps of its walls being left as buttresses. (fn. 509)
Edward Nightingale (d. 1723) repaired the whole
church at his own expense. (fn. 510) The west tower, dangerously cracked in 1685 (fn. 511) and on the verge of falling
in 1811, (fn. 512) had its arch blocked up in 1812 and
received massive new buttresses. (fn. 513) Those inside the
church conceal the west responds of the nave
arcade. The chancel east window tracery, which
disappeared between 1747 and 1811, was restored
to match that of the side windows, probably c. 1844,
when the external stonework of the chancel was
largely renewed, and its fittings replaced. (fn. 514) The
south chapel was restored in 1862. In 1864–5 with
the Nashes of Royston as architects the nave and
aisles, which had settled badly, making the roof
unsafe, were entirely taken down and rebuilt, reusing where possible the original stonework and
elsewhere copying the old work. New seating was
installed, and the tower arch re-opened to make a
vestry. (fn. 515) The west tower, so unstable that by the
1890s the bells could not be rung, was reconstructed
in 1897 with £1,200 given by Mrs. S. E. Pyne of
Royston. (fn. 516) In 1903 she left another £1,000, increased by 1960 to £1,174, as a fund for church
repairs. (fn. 517) In 1950 Miss C. L. Elbourn left £1,000
to repair the north aisle where her family had given
a window. (fn. 518)
A new organ, replacing a barrel organ of the
1820s, was placed in the chancel in 1867. (fn. 519) The
plate included three chalices c. 1275, and one silver
one by 1375. (fn. 520) In 1498 there were four, one recently
given by the Trinity guild, (fn. 521) but only two remained
by 1552. (fn. 522) The modern plate includes a silver cup
and paten acquired in 1609. (fn. 523) Of the five bells
recorded in 1552, (fn. 524) three, including the great and
treble bells, had been cast at London between 1498
and 1501. (fn. 525) The church had by 1503 a clock, (fn. 526) sold
c. 1676. (fn. 527) Edward Nightingale gave a new one c.
1712. The existing set of five bells, cast in 1650, (fn. 528)
was rehung in 1977, after having been unrung for
20 years, and a sixth added. (fn. 529) The churchyard,
being full, was closed in 1878, (fn. 530) and replaced by a
2½ a. cemetery with 2 chapels opened in 1879 north
of the road to Kneesworth. (fn. 531) The parish registers
begin in 1558. (fn. 532)
Nonconformity.
The Independent congregation founded by Francis Holcroft, minister 1655–
60, was later centred on Melbourn, (fn. 533) although
Independents were still numerous at Bassingbourn
in the 1660s. Seven people would not come to
church there in 1664, and ten in 1676 (fn. 534) when there
were 30 adult dissenters in the parish. (fn. 535) Anabaptism had also some influence. Jasper Docwra, once
farmer of the rectory, (fn. 536) had wavered between the
parish church and the Baptists in the 1650s, (fn. 537) and
under Charles II one or two families would not have
their children baptized. (fn. 538) In 1676 Docwra allegedly
claimed to be the Son of Man and Judge of the
World, and prophesied the Last Judgement and the
end of tithe paying for next spring. He therefore
refused to account as churchwarden and sold the
church clock. (fn. 539)
In 1728 there were seven dissenting families,
supposedly Presbyterians, (fn. 540) but there was no organized dissent in the village (fn. 541) until an Independent
meeting-house was built in 1790 and registered in
1791 by Samuel Bull. (fn. 542) The chapel, standing just
east of South End, is a squarish building, with a
rounded apse, pointed windows, and interior galleries. Samuel Dodkin (d. 1808), besides endowing
a dissenting school, left £3 interest on £100, to
maintain the chapel or its ministers. (fn. 543) By 1807 the
Independents were numerous. Bull, then their minister, was styled their teacher in 1825, when some
100 adults adhered to the sect. (fn. 544) A house was also
registered for dissenting worship by its occupier in
1809, and a barn by a farmer in 1822. (fn. 545) In 1851 the
minister, resident from 1846, claimed that the
chapel had 860 sittings and an average attendance
on Sunday afternoons of 670, besides 180 Sundayschool children. Then, as later, there were two
Sunday services. (fn. 546) By the 1860s the minister occupied a manse nearby. (fn. 547) A preaching station, in a
building with 80 sittings, was established at North
End in 1860, and remained open until the 1950s. (fn. 548)
In 1873 1,400 people were said to attend dissenting chapels. (fn. 549) About 1897 the population was equally
divided between church and chapel, but, as already
in 1869, most of the principal farmers and tradesmen were dissenters, including even the tenants of
the former rectory farms. (fn. 550) The Independent congregation numbered 80–90 from the 1900s to the
1920s, (fn. 551) and had, besides one or two lay preachers,
resident ministers until the 1930s. (fn. 552) Membership
had declined to 57 by 1953 and to c. 30 about 1970.
By 1973 the chapel, associated with the United
Reformed Church, was served by a minister living
at Royston. (fn. 553) It was still in use in 1977, when the
vestry, added in 1824, was under repair. (fn. 554)
A house was registered for dissenting worship in
1851, (fn. 555) and a building at Boy Bridge between 1864
and 1866. (fn. 556) A Methodist lay preacher, a miller,
recorded in 1861, (fn. 557) was perhaps connected with the
Royston Wesleyan chapel. A Salvation Army hall
was in use from 1887 to c. 1896. (fn. 558)
Education.
Bassingbourn had usually a resident
schoolmaster, not always licensed, from the late
1570s to the 1630s. (fn. 559) In 1628 the vicar himself was
teaching a school. (fn. 560) In 1657 £9 a year was granted
out of the rectory for the schoolmaster. (fn. 561) In the
early 18th century a school was held in the south
chapel of the church. (fn. 562) There was no public school
in the village in 1775 or 1807. (fn. 563)
Samuel Dodkin, by will proved 1808, left £300
to found a school for the children of poor dissenters.
The trustees then included the Independent minister, and were later drawn from the village's leading
farmers and tradesmen, who kept the school under
dissenting 'influence and management'. In 1809 a
schoolroom, a low, square, brick building, was put
up at the north-west corner of the later recreation
ground. Its pupils, who were taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, (fn. 564) numbered up to 90 in 1819,
when evening classes were also held. Four other
day schools, three also kept by dissenters, had 95
pupils, paid for by their parents. (fn. 565) From 1833 the
£210 left from Dodkin's endowment was used to
support boys' and girls' schools, with in 1837 100
and 60 pupils respectively, taught on the Lancasterian system, besides an evening class of 40. (fn. 566) The
British school had by 1841 both a master, in office
until the 1860s, and a mistress, and c. 90 pupils in
1875, when only £6 of its income of £46 came from
Dodkin's bequest, the rest from subscriptions and
schoolpence. (fn. 567) A rival Sunday school started by the
vicar in 1826, also supported by subscriptions, had
in 1833 had only 65 pupils. By 1836 the vicar also
maintained a girls' day-school. (fn. 568) Both were linked
with the National Society, as was the church day
school, for which a small schoolroom was built in
1838 at the south-east corner of the vicarage
grounds. In 1846 as later it was taught by a mistress,
paid from subscriptions, mainly given by the
impropriators. It then had 40 older pupils and 33
infants, and in 1873 c. 80 and 33. In 1859 S. L.
Leete left £10 a year to support the National school.
Evening classes, held from 1870, had little success. (fn. 569)
In 1851 c. 195 children were sometimes attending
schools, by 1871 c. 230, but the farm labourers
mostly took their children away at an early age. (fn. 570)
A school board was formed in 1874, (fn. 571) and a new
schoolhouse, with a schoolroom and 2 classrooms
and a master's house attached, was opened on the
north side of the high street in 1877. Many of the
children whom it took over from the National and
British schools, which both closed that year, were
barely literate. (fn. 572) The former church schoolroom
was used mainly for a Sunday school until 1899,
when after extensive repairs it was converted into
a churchroom. (fn. 573) Dodkin's endowment was used for
the chapel Sunday school, held until c. 1958 in the
old schoolroom, sold after 1963 for a dwelling
house. (fn. 574)
The board school, which had accommodation for
344 pupils, (fn. 575) was divided into separate departments for boys, girls, and infants until 1912, when
they were combined under a single headmaster.
Schoolpence were collected until 1891. Organized
sports and, in winter, free school meals, sponsored
by Sidney Holland of Kneesworth Hall, were instituted in 1912. (fn. 576) Average attendance, c. 245 in 1884,
fell to 200 by 1902, and after rising slightly c. 1910,
was below 200 by 1920 and only 120 by 1938. (fn. 577)
From 1954 the older children attended Bassingbourn village college, opened that year on an extensive site south-west of the crossroads. (fn. 578) In 1963 new
buildings were opened for the primary school pupils
by the Litlington road, the old school on the high
street being subsequently used for the infants.
About 1970 the two lower schools had c. 400
pupils. (fn. 579)
A 'seminary' for girls, kept by Mrs. Morley, the
village saddler's wife, from 1858 to c. 1880, (fn. 580) was
succeeded by a 'ladies' school' kept by a spinster
from 1888 to 1929. (fn. 581)
Charities for the Poor.
The yield of the
town lands, 4 a. after 1804, (fn. 582) once used to support
the rates, was from the 1830s distributed in cash
among the poor.
Roger Stoughton, by will dated 1690, left a rent
charge of £13 on land at Datchworth (Herts.), from
which, so long as the Church of England remained
Protestant, and the mass was not restored in parish
churches, 1s. a week (fn. 583) should be distributed in bread,
to poor men of Bassingbourn aged over 40, after the
two Sunday services. His family were to receive the
surplus of the rent charge. (fn. 584) Distribution probably
began in 1691. (fn. 585) In the 1830s the churchwardens
gave out 6 loaves every Sunday. (fn. 586) Distribution in
bread continued from the 1860s until 1942. The
claims of the family to the surplus were overruled
after 1956, and it was combined with the other income. When in 1961 the rent charge was redeemed
for £520, £208 of stock was assigned to Bassingbourn. Its yield, £7–8 a year, was still in the 1960s
given to one or two old people in weekly loaves. (fn. 587)
Jane Fordham, by will proved 1900, left half her
residual estate, amounting to £768, for the poor of
Bassingbourn. The income was then £18 8s. a year,
and in the 1960s £37, £20–30 of which was given
in doles of 10s. among c. 40 people. Miss C. L.
Elbourn, by will proved 1950, left £8,000 to build
and maintain an almshouse, called the Elbourn
Memorial, on a site at Spring Lane. By 1956
three bungalows had been built there at a cost of
c. £3,000; the balance was set aside for their
maintenance. (fn. 588)