INTRODUCTION.
Origin of the work.
In laying before the citizens of London the first volume of a work
that may, perhaps, never be finished, but that at least seeks to mark down
the main lines upon which her great history could be preserved and studied,
it will not, perhaps, be out of place to say a few words as to the origin
of the present volume, and those that may follow upon it.
Six years ago the public conscience was stirred by the destruction
by one of the leading municipal bodies of a great historic building, illustrated and described in this book (pp. 33–40). Some of those who were
influential in saving portions of the wreckage for national purposes decided
to form themselves into a committee and appeal to the public, with a view
to compiling a register or survey of whatever was still left of interest in the
eastern districts of London, and in those parts, still but little touched, into
which Greater London was spreading. A line, 20 miles in length, was
drawn northwards from Aldgate Pump, and southwards to the Thames, and
whatever was bounded by the river on the south, by this line on the west, and
by the circumference struck from Aldgate Pump north and east to the two
20-mile radii at either projection, was taken as within the scope of the
Survey Committee.
The area selected.
This delimitation of boundary at first sight appears somewhat arbitrary,
but a glance at the map will show the reason of the choice. Aldgate Pump
was not only a historic spot in itself, but it marked the eastern point of
the old City of London, and within the circumference thus drawn, lay not
only the great East End, but most of the beautiful eastern suburbs that are
rapidly being destroyed to make building room—for slums very frequently;
but if not slums, then, at the best, a sort of dreary villadom—for the vast
population that is flowing out from the centre or being drawn in from
perishing agricultural Essex.
The area embraced the following parishes—
|
| London Parishes. |
Bromley.
Bow. |
| Poplar. |
| Limehouse. |
| Stepney. |
| Mile End. |
| Ratcliff. |
| Shadwell. |
| St. George-in-the-East. |
| Wapping. |
| Whitechapel. |
| Aldgate. |
| Spitalfields. |
| Bethnal Green. |
| Hackney. |
| Stoke Newington. |
| Middlesex Parishes. |
| Tottenham. |
| Edmonton. |
| Enfield Highway. |
| Ponders' End. |
| Essex Parishes. |
| East Ham. |
| West Ham. |
| Stratford. |
| Plaistow. |
| Upton Park. |
| Forest Gate. |
| Manor Park. |
| Great Ilford. |
| Little Ilford. |
| Barking. |
| Dagenham. |
| Chadwell Heath. |
| Romford. |
| Hornchurch. |
| Upminster. |
| Rainham. |
| Leyton. |
| Leytonstone. |
| Wanstead. |
| Walthamstow. |
| Chingford. |
| High Beech. |
| Waltham Abbey. |
| Nasing. |
| Epping. |
| Loughton. |
| Buckhurst Hill. |
| Woodford. |
| Woodford Bridge. |
| Barkingside. |
| Aldborough. |
| Theydon Bois. |
| Theydon Garnon. |
| Theydon Mount. |
| Lambourne. |
| Chigwell. |
| Warley, Little. |
| Warley, Great. |
| Noak Hill. |
| Havering atte Bower. |
| Wennington. |
| Aveley. |
| Purfleet. |
| Ockendon, North. |
| Ockendon, South. |
| Cranham. |
| West Thurrock. |
| Brentwood. |
| Shenfield. |
| Stanford Rivers. |
| South Weald. |
| Navestock. |
| Harold Wood. |
| Stapleford Abbots. |
| Stapleford Tawney. |
| Stifford. |
These parishes were divided up into districts, and apportioned to
members of the Survey Committee, who visited them, made drawings and
photographs, and filled in forms, of which the one below given is a type. (fn. *)
These were then sent in to me for editing; where necessary I myself
visited the places in question, and the result may be seen in the records of
the parish of Bromley. Some thousand drawings, sketches, and notes,
covering various parishes, had been thus collected and arranged when a
conference of the various organisations interested in Old London was held
under the auspices of the London County Council, who, as a result, agreed
to print that portion of the work which related to the County of London.
This necessarily led to a change in the method employed. The outlying parishes were allowed to stand over, though parishes like Ilford,
West Ham, Leyton, and Barking had already been extensively surveyed,
and attention was fixed on those nearer home—those, be it said, that
are necessarily less interesting to the amateur, whose best work is done on
Saturday afternoons and summer holidays.
Development of the work.
As the work developed and the collected material increased, the
size of the volumes had to be reconsidered. At first it had been hoped to
put ten parishes into a volume; then four parishes, then the parishes of
Bromley and Bow together, seemed to be of size sufficient for one issue;
and, finally, the parish of Bow has been kept back, although it is already
in part set up in print, and Bromley alone has been issued as the first volume
of the Register.
The Register.
The portion of the Register thus offered represents, therefore, only
a small fragment of the Committee's whole work, whether for Greater
London or for the more limited area of the county. The work is necessarily of many hands. In estimating its comprehensiveness, and also its
accuracy, these facts have to be taken into consideration; and while we hope
and believe that this first volume is an accurate record of what existed in the
area surveyed in the year 1894, it is only right to say that neither this
portion nor the rest of the work lays claim to completeness: all that may
be ventured is that, in the area undertaken, the Committee have tried to
make the survey as complete as possible. The variety of hands at work
alluded to above has necessitated a somewhat disproportionate and consequently incomplete treatment of parts of the survey, although the labour of
each has been revised by myself, and the fact that in some, though very
few, cases, we have been unable to obtain permission to visit, may have
made us sometimes unwittingly miss out things that should, perhaps, have
been recorded.
As each portion of the work has been finally set up in proof by the
Council's printers, it has in many cases received further valuable help at the
hands of the Council's statistical officer, Mr. G. Laurence Gomme, whose
historical and antiquarian knowledge has been placed unreservedly at the
Committee's service.
The volume on Bromley.
The present volume is to be taken, therefore, as only a small section
of the work we have done, or have before us to do, and, in judging it, we
ask that its aim shall be the critic's first consideration. This aim is briefly
to stimulate the historic and social conscience of London; and we are glad
to have received the help of the County Council in our endeavour to do
this. We believe that if such a register as is here offered in this first
volume were drawn up of every parish in London, it would go far towards
preventing that destruction of the historic and beautiful landmarks of the
great city that our Committee have set themselves to try and save; and we
think that the parish of Bromley itself is a good illustration of what might
have been done.
A glance through the present volume shows that of the sixteen objects
or groups of objects deemed by us to be of sufficient importance to be recorded,
six have been destroyed during the compilation of this work, and at least two
others threatened with destruction. The drawings, photographs or plans in
each case recorded as being in the Committee's MSS. collection, and of
which some are here reproduced, will show the relative importance attached
to the objects surveyed.
The parish of Bromley.
It is sad to think of what might have been done with the parish, had
there but been a little historical judgment, a little co-operation between the
public bodies and the private holders of property to whose care the parish has
been entrusted in the last few years; and our Committee are bold to think
that had the survey been in existence seven years ago, perhaps some of the
worst of the vandalism might have been prevented.
A reference to plates 32-36 of this book and to the map will
show the beautiful conformation of the old high street, and also the points
marked in red that we have recorded: a walk through the existing parish
will show how this high street has been spoiled and disgraced, how its line
has been disregarded, how everything in it has been sacrificed to the
immediate requirements of the moment; as if those who have had the
handling of it in the last few years had said:—"This is a slum, let the history
or the beauty go, for the poor anything is good enough, and at all hazards
we must make things pay." Where stood the picturesque 17th and 18th
century houses with their tiled roofs and richly moulded timber cornices and
canopies now stands a grim and melancholy casual ward. Where was the
stately house of the Adams' time is now the goods depôt of the London
and Tilbury Railway. Where stood "Tudor House" in its garden is now the
somewhat conventional "open space," with a view of the factory chimneys
beyond; where, next it, was the Old Palace of James I. is now a gaunt,
uninteresting Board School; and where clustered the picturesque gable
and chimneys of the half-timber inn of the "Seven Stars" is now a flaming
gin palace of four stories.
These are merely cited as instances of the so-called "improvements"
in this particular parish that have taken place during the last six years, the
period covered by our survey. Our Committee do not wish to imply that a
good deal of this was not inevitable, but they plead that a good deal of it
was unnecessary, and could, with proper municipal direction or advice, have
been prevented.
Bromley as an example of what is happening all over London.
Perhaps it may not be fair to take the parish of Bromley as an
example of what is happening over the whole of London; but sometimes
one is apt to ask whether their historic conscience is entirely lost to the
citizens of London, so swift, so complete, so apparently needless—and, alas!
so ignorant—is often the destruction of the records of their past.
I was anxious to test how far the example of Bromley was a fair one,
to discover how far this disregard of the historic conscience could be illustrated by what was happening over the whole of London, so I asked
representative members of the various societies whom the Council has called
in from time to time to assist in the work, to help me in making a list of
beautiful or historic objects, whether in buildings, or in what may be called
the amenities of London, that have been either destroyed or threatened
with destruction during the last six years—the time over which we have
been at work.
List of things threatened or destroyed in London during the last six years.
I cannot in every case vouch for the accuracy of the information
supplied me, and in some instances where things have been only threatened,
the threat in itself may have aroused sufficient opposition to lead to its
withdrawal; but all will, I think, be agreed in looking through my list, that we
are confronted with a very serious state of things, and that the time has come
when we should face the question of how best to preserve history, for the
honour of our own and future ages; that the time has come when our
municipalities should regard it as a part of the duty they are called upon by
the ratepayers to fulfil, and when we should adopt some such course as is
adopted in the towns of Italy, of Germany, of France, even of America, for
preserving reverently and generously the great things committed to our
charge.
I place the list with the notes as they have been sent to me, putting
first the things that have been destroyed since 1894, and next the things
that have been threatened. I wish we might say that both were complete;
but this is far from being the case.
I.—BUILDINGS, &c., DESTROYED DURING THE LAST SIX YEARS.
(a) Inside the Administrative County of London.
|
| Stratford-place | The work of Robert Adam. In part, but so
that the symmetry and dignity of the whole plan is destroyed. |
| Haymarket Colonnades | One of the best-planned late Georgian streets
in London. |
| Adam-street, Adelphi | One of the finest specimens of Adam's work
(almost entirely). |
| The Rolls Chapel | Containing the monument of Dr. Young,
which was the work of Torrigiano, and also
the mediæval chancel arch. |
| The City Churches | The church of St. Michael, Wood-street, of
ancient foundation, was rebuilt by Wren
after the Great Fire, and pulled down in
1897 under the Union of Benefices Act.
On its destruction, the lower part of the
tower was found to be mediæval, and the
walls were on the ancient foundations.
The parish is now united with that of St.
Alban, Wood-street. |
| The church of St. Michael, Bassishaw, also of
ancient foundation, was in part also
destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt
by Wren, who, as was his custom, worked in
as much of the old building as he could.
It is also being destroyed under the
Union of Benefices Act, the parish being
united to that of St. Laurence Jewry. |
| The church of St. George, Botolph-lane, also
rebuilt by Wren after the Fire, has been
closed for years. It is, we understand,
condemned under the same Act. |
| The Old Palace of Bromley | Built in 1606. Described in this volume
(pp. 33–40). |
| Tudor House, Bromley | Described in this volume (pp. 21–23). |
| Alfred Stevens' Lions | Before the British Museum railings. |
| The Embankment Garden of Chelsea Hospital | In part, and one of the finest cedar trees in
London. |
| The "Old Bell Inn" | The last galleried inn in London on the
Middlesex side of the water. |
| Church-Row, Hampstead | In part. |
| St. Mary Woolonth Church | The interior destroyed. |
| Old Merchants' Houses In
the City | Nos. 10 and 11A, Austin Friars. No. 10 had
a fine staircase. It was panelled, and the
ceiling was painted on plaster with allegorical figures in the style of Sir James
Thornhill. Built into the basement was
an arch which had formed part of the
cloister of the Augustine Friars. |
| No. 4, Coleman-street, with its "Cedar
Room," of date between 1610–1625. On
the destruction of the house a quantity of
mediæval pottery was found in a well
beneath. |
| The 17th Century Houses
on the south side of
Barnard's Inn | When the latter was converted for the purpose of the Mercers' School. |
| Clement's Inn | With its brick garden-house. |
| Hare-court, Temple | In part. |
| Dick's Coffee-House | No. 8, Fleet-street, that was of 17th century
date. Very famous in the literature of the
18th century. |
| Ashburnham House, Dover-street | Now replaced by flats. |
| Coleherne-court, Earl's-court | Date about 1750. Recently destroyed, the
site and garden, some two or three acres,
to be built over. |
| Bullingham House, off
Church-street, Kensington | This was the house where Sir Isaac Newton
died. The house and extensive garden
have been built over. |
| The 13th Century Crypt,
Laurence Pountney-hill | No. 4 that was. This was in perfect condition, and it was let by the Merchant
Taylors' Company on building lease and
destroyed. |
| The last portion of the
Blackfriars Monastrey,
on the north side of
Ireland-yard. | Destroyed this year. |
| Bedford-square | Many Adam interiors destroyed. |
| Russell-square | The whole planning of the square spoiled by
block buildings, and facades of many of
the houses spoiled. |
| Fitzroy-square | The elevations spoiled, and stonework painted over. |
| Hanover Chapel, Regent-street, W. | |
| The "Cock Tavern," Fleet-street. | |
| Harley House, Marylebone-road | With beautiful timbered garden, and some of
the finest planes in London. |
| Emanuel Hospital, West-minister. | |
| Church-Row, Aldgate | 16th to 18th century date. |
| Cass's School, Aldgate | 18th century date. |
| The Wardrobe, Stepney | Adjoining, and formerly part of Gwynne
House. It was destroyed by the London
County Council in widening the thoroughfare. |
| 17th Century Merchant
Houses, Bow | Opposite Bow Church. |
| Mitre-square, Aldgate | With the remains of the Priory. |
| Palestine-place, Bethnal-green | A group of 18th century buildings. |
| The "Catherine Wheel
Inn," Bishopsgate. | Part of the courtyard, with the galleries of
the old inn. |
| The 18th Century Rectory
and Boundary Wall,
Bow | Where the front garden was has now been
built a new bank premises, completely
spoiling the line of the High-street and
blocking out the view of the tower of St.
Mary's Church. |
| The "Seven Stars" Inn,
Bromley | See descriptions in this volume (pp. 41–42). |
| Sir Francis Drake's House
in the City | No. 35, Basinghall-street that was. |
| 17th and 18th Century
Houses in St. Leonard'sstreet and High-street,
Bromley | See descriptions in this volume (pp. 24,
43–45). |
| Half-Timber Houses in Mile End and Whitechapel Roads | Mostly destroyed by the new railway improvements. These were of dates varying from
16th to 18th century; they are partly
recorded in the Committee's Register. |
| Coopers' Almshouses, Ratcliff | Recorded in the Committee's Register. |
| Skinners' Almshouses, Mile
End | Recorded in the Committee's Register. |
| Nos. 84 and 85, Highstreet, Putney | Early 18th century houses, with fine staircases. Pulled down by the General
Omnibus Company. |
| The Gables, Wandsworthcommon | Two houses of late 17th century date
Replaced by a pauper establishment. |
(b) Outside the Administrative County of London, but within the
Greater London Survey.
|
| Rokeby House, Stratford | Where now stands a music hall. |
| Kew Bridge | One of the few remaining stone bridges on
the Lower Thames. |
| Salway House, Leyton | Of 17th century date, gate piers only left. |
| Grove Hall, Woodford. | |
| The Abbey Wall, West
Ham | This was early Norman work, and destroyed
by the Great Eastern Railway. |
| 17th and 18th Century
Houses in High-street,
East Ham. | |
| Salisbury House, Ilford | The garden has been built over and the front
blocked out. |
| Ivy Lodge, Plaistow | Elizabethan date, destroyed by the West
Ham Corporation. |
| The Greyhound Inn, West Ham | |
| Fairmead Hall, Highstreet, Stratford | Elizabethan date, L shaped plan. |
| Leasowes, Leyton | 16th to 18th century,
containing beautiful panelling, wrought iron
gates and other detail. |
| Sunny Side, Leyton |
| Lea Hall, Leyton |
| Stratford Green | Built over in part by the new Technical
Schools. |
| Capper's House, Leyton | Recorded in the Committee's Register. |
II.—BUILDINGS, &c., THREATENED DURING THE LAST SIX YEARS.
(a) Inside the Administrative County of London.
|
| Chelsea Hospital. | |
| Trinity Hospital, Mile
End | Saved in great measure by the agency of the
Survey Committee. (See the Trinity
Hospital Monograph issued by the Committee.) |
| St. Mary-le-Strand Church. | |
| St. Clement Danes Church. | |
| St. Mary's, Stratford Atte
Bowe, Church | Saved in part by the agency of the Survey
Committee and recently restored by the
Society for the Protection of Ancient
Buildings. (See the Bow Church Monograph issued by the Committee.) |
| 16a, Brook-street | One of the most beautiful pieces of Adam's
work in London. |
| The Inner Temple Gatehouse | Together with 17, Fleet-street, the reputed
Chancery of Cornwall; but now saved by
the action of the City and the London
County Council. |
| St. Mary Woolnoth Church | Exterior only (by conversion into a station). |
| The Jewel Tower, West-minister. | |
| The City Churches. | |
| St. Ethelburga, Bishopsgate | Threatened under the Union of Benefices Act. |
| Lincoln's Inn Fields | The western side, with the Inigo Jones
Mansions. |
| Christ's Hospital. | |
| Sir Joshua Reynolds' House
in Leicester-square. | |
| Turner House, Chelsea | Now saved. |
| Thomas Carlyle's House in
Cheyne-row | But now saved mainly by the enterprise of
Chelsea residents and American subscribers. |
| Sir Isaac Newton's House. | |
| Newgate | The facade of this is one of the best works of
the younger Dance. |
| Bromley Churchyard, with
the Hughenot tombs. | |
| Chestnut House, Old Ford,
Bow | Late 18th century date, but containing carved
oak and stone fireplaces of early 17th
century date. |
| Fernside, Wandsworth
Common. | |
| Ironmongers' Almshouses,
Kingsland-road, N.E. | Now saved. |
| Temple Gardens | In part. |
| Golder's Hill Estate,
Hampstead | Since saved. |
| Churchyard Bottom Wood,
Highgate | Since saved. |
| Latchmere Allotments,
Battersea. | |
| The Burial-ground of
Bridewell Hospital | At the corner of Tudor and Dorset-streets,
E.C. The Corporation intend building
on it. |
| The Blind School, S.E. | The generating station for the Baker street
and Waterloo Railways. |
| Grove Hall, Bow. | |
(b) Outside the City and County of London, but within the
Greater London survey.
|
| The Great House, Leyton | With its panelled rooms and Thornhill
paintings. |
| Lake House, Wanstead | With its banqueting hall and paintings. |
| Pymme's Park, Edmonton | But now saved by the action of the Middlesex County Council. |
| Valentines, Ilford | The ground being gradually cut up for
building. |
| Crabrook, Ilford | " " " |
| The Angel Inn, Ilford | A 17th century coaching inn. The old sign
only left. |
| Ilford Hall, Ilford | Stands in a fine garden. |
| Great Desideratum Club
House, Ilford. | |
| Boleyn Castle, Upton Park | Fully described in the Committee's Register. A fine Tudor building, with
garden and grounds. |
| Pest House Common, Richmond. | |
| The Home Field, Chiswick. | |
| Totter Down Meadows,
Tooting | Sold to the London County Council for building artizan dwellings. |
| The Old Tithe Barn of
Cumberland House,
Planistow | Probably the tithe barn of West Ham
Abbey, and reputed the largest in Essex. |
| Hare Hall, Romford | Now saved; a stone-fronted house, built in
1769 from the designs of Payne. |
| Giddea Hall, Romford | The house of an ancient manor of Westminster Abbey; it was originally built by Sir
Thomas Coke, temp. Edward IV., rebuilt
by John Thorpe in the early 17th century,
which was again destroyed in 1720, and
the present building erected by Sir John
Eyles. |
| Shern Hall, Walthamstow | A 17th century manor house, with beautiful
grounds. |
| Rectory Manor, Walthamstow. | Of early 19th century date, but containing
some earlier fitments. |
| The Temple House, East
Ham | A beautiful little example of early 18th
century garden architecture. |
| Rancliffe House, East
Ham. | |
| Ray House, Woodford. | |
| Manor House, Woodford. | |
| Walwood House, Leytonstone. | The grounds cut up and built upon; the
house still standing. |
| Strype's Vicarage, Leyton | This was the residence of the famous antiquary. It has been saved by conversion
into a church-house. |
| The Old Town Hall,
Barking | A beautiful Elizabethan building, carried on
an open timber arcade, and standing in
the market-place alongside of the abbey
gateway. |
Where the above-mentioned are in private hands, it is, of course, difficult
to bring public pressure to bear; but it is as often as not the case that a
public or semi-public body has been responsible. Thus examination will show
that, among others, responsibility for the care of, or blame for the destruction
of, the places above enumerated has lain with such bodies as the London
County Council, the London School Board, the Charity Commissioners, the
Elder Brethren of the Trinity House, the Office of Works, the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, the War Office, the Bedford Estate, &c.
The historic record of London.
In some cases it would have been difficult, perhaps impossible, to
retain some of the buildings, &c., specified, even with the most conservative
intentions or the most generous expenditure; but the fact of its being possible
to draw up within the limited period of six years such a list as the above, is
in itself a very serious indictment against the common sense and the administrative capacity of the citizens of London. It touches their credit with
posterity. That they should be so ready to thoughtlessly destroy the noble
and beautiful things committed to their charge argues an indifference and a
want of trust that it will be difficult at some later time, perhaps even
impossible, to explain away. "Quem deus vult perdere" can be not inappropriately applied to the guardianship of our historical heritage. Are we
incapable, or not, of maintaining our trust as the centre of empire? The
question is a grave one, the trust may be taken from us.
The greatest city of England—of the whole world—should not only
look to the preserving of her historic record, she should go out of her way to see
that immediate, that short-sighted considerations, whether public or private,
should not intrude themselves. To the Canadian, the Australian, the American,
the son of a new world of our own blood, this great London that he comes home
to see is interesting not for its modernity, not to him even for its life, it stands
to him as a symbol for the majesty of history. We ought not to let parochial
considerations prejudice this idea. It was a wise axiom of William Morris' that
whenever a great piece of history or a noble work of art was threatened with
destruction, it was because "somebody wanted something." There was no
real desire on the part of the public to destroy a Trinity hospital, a "Wren"
church, an Elizabethan palace, an open space. The public was ready for a
lead always if the case could be fairly put before it; but there was somebody
behind who was more pushing, some brewer who wanted to enlarge his yard,
some impecunious landlord who wanted to realise, some building speculator
who had a scheme to develop, some official in a Government department who
wanted to show a good balance-sheet for the year—somebody who wanted
something.
A means of safeguarding the historic record.
It should be the object of a wise municipality to have a means by
which the public interest should be safeguarded against the private encroachment that is implied in its not having a first say in matters of this kind. I
do not mean that the municipality should buy up every old house, pledge
itself to turn every open space into a garden and so forth, but that there
should be some means by which the public should be first consulted when
any question arose that affected the history or the dignity of London; and
the proper body to supply this means would seem to be the London County
Council. It has obtained the necessary statutory power; it has already
taken action in one case under that power, and if properly advised in each
case it would be the most authoritative body to bring about the desired results.
Expert opinion and the London County Council.; A suggested organisation.
But what is it that actually happens? A piece of London history
comes under the hammer, let us say, and the Council may or may not get
information in time to act. If it is asked to step in and do something, there is
at present no proper machinery by which the Council may consult the views
of those who have made this subject their special study. Nobody has any
locus standi. Nobody can take any action. The inevitable result is that
two things happen, each of them bad. An agitation, which almost
invariably resolves itself into an attack, is started in the public Press, and
the individual members of the Council are lobbied by the parties interested
on both sides. This is unfair to the public, but it is unfairer still to the
members of the Council. But if expert opinion were so organised as to be
able to advise the London County Council quickly and effectively in all
cases of this kind, it would be a great step forward in the safe-guarding of
London's right to the enjoyment of her own history.
Co-operation of Municipality with private enterprise.
We are constantly met in our desire to adapt things of a past age to
the needs of our own with the difficulty of their inappropriateness. I have
heard Mr. Sidney Webb say that it might become a serious question for the
Council to have upon its hands a number of old empty houses for which
there was no particular purpose, and which had to be kept up. The difficulty is, however, not so great as it seems. A purpose should, and I consider
can, always be found if we go the right way to work; but the right way is
not necessarily the purely utilitarian way. A Committee ought to be formed
to put itself in touch with all the various social agencies that are each in their
way seeking to work in the direction of the raising of the standard of life in
the community. There is the Church, there are the various Nonconformist
centres, the clubs, the University settlements, the trade unions, there are
the societies, antiquarian, historical, and so forth, there is the National
Trust, the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings, and other
organisations. It will, I think, usually be found that when any of these
bodies are approached in the right manner, sympathetically, and on account of
what I have called the historic conscience, they respond in a like way. If
the County Council would instruct its Committee to act with such a committee permanently, the results would, I am convinced, well repay the
endeavour.
The recent case of the destruction of Tudor House by the London
County Council itself rather illustrates what I mean. Here was an Elizabethan house, not perhaps in itself intrinsically valuable, but which there
was no great need to destroy. The illustrations and description given in
this volume will show that it possessed æsthetic and historic interest. An
offer was made for its maintenance and upkeep as a University settlement;
but the wise assimulation of the two municipal services of education and
recreation was never really placed before the Council, and the project was
lost.
Larger questions involved.
I have ventured to go thus fully into the question of what might be
done if the Council pursue the wise course it has already started upon of
calling to its assistance, and giving the lead to, the various bodies, societies,
and voluntary associations who are each in their own way working for the
ennobling and improvement of London, but I think that there are still some
greater and more important questions that would be touched upon, that
might even be more wisely settled than they are at present; these are the
housing question, the question of parks and open spaces, the question of
museums, and the question of nomenclature.
The reflections here following are offered, not so much as my own, but
as held for the most part by my colleagues on the Survey Committee, and
deduced by us from the experience we have had during the progress of our
work. That the suggestions they call forth appear, in many cases, incompatible with the method under which modern municipal government has to
be conducted, or that they trench upon the province of other Government
departments is not our concern. Our object is merely to state facts, or to
show up what we believe to be abuses from the point of view—social,
historical and æsthetic—from which we handle our subject. It is for the
legislators to devise the way out.
The housing of the poor.
Of these questions by far the most important for the life, moral and
physical, of the community is the housing question. What is it we find?
We who have searched and recorded what remains of things that are
beautiful or health-giving or dignified in those districts of London beyond
the far East-end, whither its vast population—its poor—gravitate, perhaps
have better opportunities than others of knowing. We hear much talk
about the housing of the poor in the centre, we see great experiments being
tried, we see masses of the population drifting outwards. But what
happens to them, what becomes of them, where do they go? The answer
to this our Committee can supply in its search work. We find that for every
slum destroyed in the centre, half a dozen are run up in the suburbs; we find
that while the legislators are theorising and experimenting as to how the
poor should be housed inside the County of London, the jerry builder is
solving the problem for them outside, to the infinite loss and detriment of
the community. We find estate after estate, park after park, coming under
the hammer, the trees cut down, the roads stupidly planned; everything,
in short, sacrificed to the financial exigencies of the few people immediately
interested.
It needs no prophet to foretell that all this work will some day have
to be undone at great cost and great loss. To any one who has studied
the needs and requirements of the poor who are drifting into these new and
dreary suburbs of Greater London, for the most part outside the county
area, it is clear enough that what is being offered them is a mere makeshift, a habitation in which life of any dignity or nobility is impossible, a
condition of things that is seldom better, sometimes worse, than the slums
and side streets of the centre from which they have been driven.
The needless destruction of great estates.
The building contract system strikes at the root of all nobility
in planning—architecture is non - existent. Building Acts are but
little protection against bad or slovenly building; the difficulties of
distance and travelling are added to the ugliness of life; for the children
nothing is done; nothing is done to protect the open spaces, the trees
or gardens, that might with proper planning be preserved; if there is
any beautiful object of the past, some house, perhaps, that could be
utilised for library, club, museum, school or parish purposes, it is torn down
and sold to the wreckers for its value in old materials; while as for that
quality of beauty in old roads or streets, the lie of the land, the disposition
of the buildings, &c., all those things that make a locality interesting, and
that were instinctively felt and understood by our ancestors, they are merely
dismissed by the people who pride themselves as practical, with suspicion
and contempt.
There are at least ten such estates at the present moment, some
of them with parks and gardens that the care of centuries has brought into
being, some with historic houses, whose interiors will bring high profit to the
Wardour-street dealers for West-end mansions, that we have recorded as
about to be destroyed. Since the starting of our work, perhaps twenty such
have been broken up. We consider that a wiser, a more far-sighted policy,
would so handle those estates that they should conduce to the well-being
and the healthier life of the poor whose habitation they are to become.
There is no reason why the estates should not be properly laid out, the
roads planned in accordance with the existing trees and avenues, the
gardens preserved for common enjoyment, and whatever fragments of
local history there may be to start with, saved for the pleasure of the community that is to come—no reason, except the sordid utilitarianism of the
system under which they are destroyed.
We Londoners flatter ourselves that with the more enlightened
municipal government which we enjoy we now take more thought for the
well-being of the community than was taken in such matters in the
beginning of the present century or at the end of the last. But are we sure
that we are not deceiving ourselves? Is any attempt made now to lay out
a suburban estate such as was once the Bedford Estate in Bloomsbury, or
the Tredegar Estate in Bow?
Writing to me in 1895 on the work of the Survey, one of the older
members of our Committee, to whom its work is much indebted, and whose
words for their pathos as well as their direct bearing upon the subject I
make free to quote here, said—
"I have been grieved to see so many places cut up and destroyed—mansions and buildings pulled down during the last 40 years. When I
lived there (at Bow) it was all fields around. We could see from our
landing window 29 church spires—from Shoreditch to Forest Gate—and
St. Paul's Cathedral, and the first mistletoe I gathered (or saw) was on a
tree in Bearbinder-lane, a name now almost forgotten. Then the walk
over to Limehouse was by Bromley Fields, and part of the wall of the
Convent was existing in Three Mill-lane—and the Palace now gone too!
At Leyton, the Grange with its five avenues existed, and we used to walk
over cornfields to the church, where now hundreds of houses are. Harrow
Green was a quiet country spot with the old cage and pound, and Leytonstone, a rural Quaker retreat; Wallwood House in a pretty little park;
Walthamstow a drowsy village in the fields, now a perfect horror;
Wanstead the same, but too urban now; Upton, Plashet, East Ham and
Little Ilford, charmingly quiet and untouched—and I might go on so."
The wisdom of the policy of reservations.
Instead of planning vast stacks of model dwellings in the heart of
the great city, would it not be a wiser course to secure some of these
beautiful districts in the immediate suburbs, such as our Committee has
marked down as doomed from its point of view, and lay them out
intelligently for the future citizens of London? We believe that were the
means for doing this made easier, the actual work of housing could be done
not only much more cheaply but much more beneficially for the health and
life of the poor, and we are convinced that had this been done 25 or 30
years ago, much of the misery, the ugliness and the degradation of East
London as it now exists would have been saved.
I have often thought that if a few philanthropists were to form themselves into a committee for buying up land in the outlying districts of
London, and be content to hold this till the times were ripe, binding themselves to make no return beyond perhaps a 3 per cent. dividend when the
new area ultimately came to be built over, and at the same time made it
their object to save the amenities of each district they handled, the results
would be better than any Peabody or Rowton or Boundary-street undertakings. It would, in fact, be carrying out in practice that wiser and more
far-sighted policy of "reservations" pursued in Massachusetts, and from
which not only our philanthropists, but our municipalities might take a
lesson for the future of Greater London.
Parks and open spaces.
If the housing question is the most important, that of parks and open
spaces appears to us, from the conclusions which our investigations have
forced upon us, to be inseparably connected with it. To us it seems that
while the municipalities are allowing the real parks on the outskirts of
London to be destroyed, they are only playing with the subject. The
question should be treated much more broadly and on a larger scale. It is
too apt to resolve itself into a mere matter of ring fences and band-stands.
Every year what is practically a new town of from 20,000 to 50,000
inhabitants, is thrown off from London. What we would like to see is
some means by which the existing parks and open spaces that are being
sacrificed for these mushroom towns should be safeguarded and preserved.
I am not saying that it is not a wise plan to buy areas in the heart
of the metropolis for purposes of "lungs," but what we want to insist on is
the comparative waste and extravagance of the system by which small and
costly areas are preserved at a very high charge to the rates, when large
and beautiful tracts could be acquired at often agricultural prices in the
near suburbs. All the time, moreover, the population is drifting away from
the centre, and we are laying up for the future an exaggeration of that
very problem which we are now trying inadequately to solve. Were the
population of London stationary and non-migratory, our method of going
to work would be sound enough, but at present it is short-sighted, haphazard, and recklessly wasteful. My Committee plead for a larger, wiser,
and more statesmanlike manner of handling the problem; a manner that
shall take into consideration the drift of population, the gravitation of
trades, the effect of the new railways now under construction, and the
great decentralising influence of the bicycle and other methods of locomotion. We plead that the parks and open space problem shall not be treated
in the rather parochial way in which it is at present treated, that it shall be
regarded as part of the greater question of the amenities of municipal life,
and that, perhaps, by some combination among municipalities, or by some
action taken in conjunction with private individuals, a wiser and more farsighted policy in such matters should be adopted. (fn. *)
Museums.
Among the other questions of importance to the community that in
the opinion of the Survey Committee would receive a more intelligent
consideration were that Court of Appeal of which I spoke above instituted,
we place that of museums and of nomenclature. People fail entirely to
recognise the great importance of both these things to the community.
They are educational factors of the highest influence, provided that
intelligent consideration is given them. At present both are practically
disregarded, they play no part in municipal life.
To most people a museum suggests cases of stuffed animals, or at
best something dead and unconnected with living things. A lumber room
into which you put stuff which you do not want to throw away, but are at a
loss to know where else to bestow it. The manner in which our great
collections have been gathered and housed, all at random and hugger
mugger, has lent colour to this. We who have watched during the last six
years the breaking up of what we consider should be the real store-houses,
plead that the spirit of collectomania is not the spirit upon which a museum
should be formed. Every museum, we consider, should have a definite
purpose, a historical setting, a reference to the locality in which it is placed,
and above all should be connected in some way or other, whether through
the school, the technical college, the church, or the industries of the locality,
with the life of the district in which it is situated.
Municipal collections and centres of study.
That there should be one central collection is in itself questionable,
though admissible perhaps from an educational point of view for students.
But it need not be large in order to be educational. The genuine student,
moreover, will go to where the things are he is in search of, and the result,
as a rule, of gathering all things together under one vast roof as at South
Kensington, means that the classification is incoherent, and the things so
huddled up that they are unapproachable. Many of the priceless treasures
stripped from beautiful houses and churches in London suburbs and at
present at South Kensington, might as well be in Wardour-street cellars, for
all the benefit either the student or the community reap from them. What
we would like to see would be a number of small municipal museums in
different parts of London, connected in one way or another with local
organisations, and, wherever possible, set in some historic house and
surrounded by the garden that is already in existence. Among the great
houses that our Committee has surveyed which we consider would well serve
such a purpose, and some of which are now threatened with destruction, or will
shortly be, we would name (fn. *) Pymmes Park, Edmonton, with its Elizabethan
interior; Great House, Leyton, with its Thornhill paintings and beautiful
oak-panelled rooms; Lake House, Wanstead, with its painted banqueting
chamber; Boleyn Castle, Upton Park, with its charming Elizabethan work,
its memories of the unfortunate queen whose name it retains; Eastbury
House, Barking, and Parsloes, Dagenham, with their wonderful interiors
and the records they share between them of the Stuart families and the
Gunpowder Plot; all those places, and they are only a few of those that
might be mentioned, are surrounded by beautiful gardens, there are still
flowers and trees in them that it would be impossible to plant again in new
ground under London atmosphere, and all could be connected with some
existing local organisation, and become centres for small historic collections
of the different and scattered parishes in which they are respectively placed.
The lost opportunity in Bromley.
It is private enterprise that will do all this and form the collections
if the municipality will take the lead intelligently. When our Committee
was at work in Bromley a variety of local records and objects dealing
with the history of the parish was offered to us, but we had nowhere to
place them, and knew not what to do with them. It would have
been perfectly easy to have formed a historical museum in Bromley
within the last six years, as beautiful almost as the Musee Plantin
in Antwerp itself. The Old Palace described in this volume would have
been its fitting home, and this could have been attached without any difficulty to the new school erected by the School Board. There was the
nucleus there of one of the most beautiful collections in London; and I
know many residents in Bromley and East London generally, who would
have been only too glad to have given records of local history, and also
money to assist in such a project. It would have meant establishing a
"Monument Historique," such as is constantly done in similar cases in
every city in France and other countries more enlightened in these
matters than ourselves. It would have been possible to construct in this
Palace a complete visual picture of the old parish of Bromley from the time
of Chaucer, when the monastery stood there, through the period of the
Royal manors into the time of the merchant princes. There would have
been the records of the Armada heroes who came and settled there, of the
the Scotch colony, who brought with them their foreign craftsmanship of
the plaster ceilings, of the Huguenot refugees, whose tombs still stand in
the churchyard, and of the Bow and Bromley pottery makers of the last
century; in short, an epitome of the life of a London parish preserved in
a most exquisite setting, and of the utmost value for its beauty and its living
interest to the young citizens who are bred in what is now a disgraced slum.
Had it but only been for the comparison between what is left and what
might, with a little intelligent guidance, have been preserved, it would have
been good to have seen that thing done. Every chance, every hope of it
has now in these brief six years been swept away!
Nomenclature.
It is, perhaps, in the matter of nomenclature that the historic record
is most affected, and where the aid of the private student, the historian, and
the antiquary would be most at the community's services if the questions
involved in it came under the consideration of the Court of Appeal. There
is a good deal to be said for leaving everything that has to do with the
naming of streets and districts to the haphazard choosing of individuals;
under normal conditions, they may be said to choose rightly, by instinct.
But the conditions under which historic estates are torn down and built
over by speculative contract are not altogether normal. The Englishman
has a healthy objection to the French system of changing all the names at
the whim of the municipal officer in power; he deems it a sad break in the
historical continuity. But when a whole page of history is wiped out for
him in his own London, and a jerry builder and an estate surveyor let loose
to name the streets after their various sentimental associations of foreign
travel or otherwise, it does not appear to him that his proceedings are one
degree less foolish than the freaks of his French neighbour. What should
be aimed at is some sort of compromise. The historic association and the
whims of the individual that may or may not go to the making of new
history should be combined.
It is difficult to realise how important often this apparently trifling
question of nomenclature may become. The instances in Bromley itself,
and already referred to, may be again cited. The name "Tudor" House
from the Tudor of the Scotch colony who lived there in the reign of
James I. had been practically lost, merged in the numbering, while the Old
Palace merely appeared as No. 4 and 6, St. Leonard's-street. Had the
name been preserved, it is just possible that the School Board authorities,
who were quite unaware of what it was they were purchasing, might have
received that timely warning, which they so regretted not having had, when it
was too late. Another illustration that may be cited is the recent naming
of the new Borough of Poplar, which includes the parishes of Bow, Bromley
and Poplar. Had the nomenclature been considered from the historic
point of view, the naming would certainly have been different. There are
occasions when it may be advisable to obliterate history, or to make new
history in preference to retaining the old, but there is never any excuse for
doing this unintelligently or wantonly.
Instances of successful action on the part of the Council.
It would perhaps be unfair in an introduction to a work of this kind,
which aims not only at giving a record but also at suggesting a policy, to
omit mention of some of the instances where the principles our Committee
seek to emphasize have been carried out practically. The recent acquisition
by the London County Council of No. 17, Fleet-street, the reputed Chancery
of the Duchy of Cornwall, is a good instance in point, but perhaps more
important still is the Council's Strand improvement scheme. That this was
considered with the definite intention of preserving the two Strand churches,
shows that the Council deliberately accepted its responsibility as custodian
of the amenities of London, and though it is uncertain as yet whether
the scheme may or may not lead to the destruction of the west side of
Lincoln's Inn Fields where stand the Inigo Jones houses, it is impossible
not to agree with the soundness of the policy which inspired it. Another
exercise of a wise, civic forethought, due perhaps rather to the enterprise of
the private societies than to municipal action, was the defeat of the so-called
"Westminister improvement scheme." By this ingenious "scheme of
improvement" we were threatented with the destruction of most of what
was interesting in old Westminster, we were to lose the historic Jewel
Tower, a portion of the Embankment garden, most of the good 17th and
18th century houses in the district, and in return for these concessions, and
the opening of a very ill-planned and pettily conceived thoroughfare
through the slums, we were offered an enormous block of flats close up
beside Victoria Tower. Fortunately this scheme is a thing of the past, but
it is well that we should not forget how nearly it got through Parliament,
and how easily such a thing might occur again. This rushing through of
ill-considered proposals or of undertakings devised mainly in the interest of
their promoters, is another of the things that the Court of Appeal would
help to counteract.
Further cases could be given of the way in which the municipalities
have helped in the preservation of the amenities of greater London, but
perhaps the best illustration of the readiness of the leading municipality of
London to further the work here indicated is to be found in the printing
and issuing under its auspices of the present volume, the first of a series
which it is hoped will mark down the history of London.
The completion of the work.
The question now is, can the work, even with the Council's assistance, be carried through, and if so within what period of time? The
answer to this depends on one thing only—the readiness of the public to
assist the endeavours of the Survey Committee, and to follow the lead thus
set by the Council in printing the records which the Committee has so far
succeeded in collecting. It is, after all, individuals who do the actual work,
and it is to individuals that we appeal. All who have had experience of
the difficulty of organising amateur work will know how hard it is not only
to keep such work up to the necessary standard of efficiency, but to maintain
it permanently. On the other hand, there is a certain quality of enthusiasm
needful for the production of the greatest works that cannot be bought, and
that has no actual commercial value. What I seek for is a mean between
the two. A small paid staff will always be necessary to do the work of
noting, copying, tracing, transcribing, indexing and correspondence, and the
experience now gained by Mr. Ernest Godman during his six years' work
as Secretary of the Committee, is a very valuable aid to its work. A survey
of one parish, such as this volume presents, could hardly be accomplished
by voluntary labour alone, much less a survey of several hundred parishes.
But there are numbers of men, artists, antiquaries, young architects, amateur
photographers, householders, landlords, lawyers, clergymen, who, if rightly
approached would give help, and I think gladly, in the production of a
historic record of their own time.
The parishes in the County of London together with the City number
192; if Greater London be included, as indicated at the outset in the
Committee's first scheme, the total would amount to something like 400.
Thus, taking the County of London and the City it would, if one
volume be brought out a year, take more than one hundred years to
complete a survey commencing in 1894. As for the cost, it is impossible
even taking the printing and publication as provided and the higher labour
as given, to produce a volume at less than £100 for clerical and out-ofpocket expenses, and this would still leave the Committee at the mercy of
the amateur staff in the matter of time.
An appeal for £10,000.
I believe, however, that if a time limit of ten years were set, and a
sum of say £10,000 placed at the Committee's disposal, the work could be
done in the time and the London County Council have upon its shelves at
the close of this period a complete historical survey of London. The whole
of the sum in question would be expended in payment to clerks, assistants,
draughtsmen and photographers, who should do the work of supplementing
the voluntary labour which would be given as heretofore by members acting
upon local committees, and interested in local records.
The object of this introduction is to call attention to the larger
issues of the work, to point to its living purpose rather than to its dry
bones, and to appeal to all citizens of London into whose hands it may
chance, to help in an undertaking that should commend itself to them if
they have the social welfare and nobility of the great city at heart.
Summary
To sum up in conclusion the points which we have here sought to
bring out: they are as follows—
1. We wish to see made for the whole of London a Register, of
which the present is the first volume, and we wish to see recorded in it all
that London yet possesses of historic or æsthetic interest.
2. We think that this should be done by private enterprise, aided
and guided by the municipality.
3. The objective, however, is not so much the making of a paper
record, as the preservation of the things recorded.
4. To this end we believe that a committee should be appointed
representative of all the bodies in London who are engaged upon work
dealing with the historical remains of London. Before this committee
every "case" of impending destruction should be openly considered, and
the result of its deliberations forwarded to the London County Council with
a view of action being taken thereon.
5. We believe that the thing to aim at as regards method is a
combination not only between private and municipal enterprise, but between
the various municipalities that go to make up greater London; and the
formation of such a committee would conduce to this end.
6. We consider that the question of the proper housing of the poor
is one of the questions involved in the work we have before us; and that it
should be studied in connection with the larger issues of which it is a part,
and which go to make up the amenities of life in a great city.
7. We consider that the subject of parks and open spaces should be
regarded from a larger point of view than it is at present, and that the
right policy is rather to preserve the existing parks, trees and gardens on
the outskirts of London than to open costly areas in the centre.
8. We hold that a system of municipal museums, or storehouses of
history and local life, should be established in conjunction with the various
existing centres of municipal or social life, and that the great houses with
beautiful interiors and fine gardens that every year fall to the jerry builder,
should be used for such purposes rather than destroyed.
9. We would urge that more consideration should be given to the
subject of nomenclature.
10. In fine, we plead that the object of the work we have before us, is
to make nobler and more humanly enjoyable the life of the great city whose
existing record we seek to mark down; to preserve of it for her children
and those yet to come whatever is best in her past or fairest in her
present; to induce her municipalities to take the lead and to stimulate
among her citizens that historic and social conscience which to all great
communities is their most sacred possession.
C. R. Ashbee,
On behalf of the Committee
for the Survey of Greater London.
Essex House,
Bow,
London.